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Shin-chan posted:I'm going to test drive a 2001 Audi allroad with my father in the next couple of days. The car is for him. It's got the 2.7TT engine, manual transmission, 118k miles. What do I need to look out for in this car. Just got back from vacation in Cuba but stay the hell away from the Allroad - when any one of the bags for the air suspension go (and they will) it's about $1000 per corner to replace them. Also if the pump for the air suspension shits the bed (and it will) that'll be another $800+ to replace. Add to that the cost of turbos (when they finally go bad) and possibly cats (when the flex pipe breaks) it all adds up to so much more trouble than it's possibly worth.
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Oct 11, 2010 03:03
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Autism Sundae posted:Anyone? Normal.
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Oct 11, 2010 03:05
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my1999gsr posted:Normal. Thanks  How was Cuba by the way? I'd like to go sometime next year.By the way, haven't seen this posted: Insideline dynoed their long-term GTI and MS3, and found GTI to be underrated (they measured 199hp and 214lbs/ft average). http://blogs.insideline.com/roadtests/2010/10/dyno-testing-the-2010-mazdaspeed-3-and-2010-volkswagen-gti.html
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Oct 11, 2010 05:48
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks That's on 91, too. Anecdotally, I heard that 93 provides slightly more power, but I don't know if it's true and I can't tell the difference with the butt dyno.
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Oct 11, 2010 13:04
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Off topic, but how does one visit Cuba. Fly out through Canada ? Back on topic, can I get a price check for the 2 pieces of aluminum door trim for my 04.5 GLI? I ripped both off as they were starting to peel from the front and the rear door trim scratched the gently caress out of the front door.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:15
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^^^ Either Ebay or LKQ.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:30
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Are APR chips with stock mode and lockout really undetectable? I'm getting a CPO car and I don't want to chance having it voided.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:43
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veedubfreak posted:Off topic, but how does one visit Cuba. Fly out through Canada ? I'm Canadian so it's just a plane ticket away. We've been there 5 or 6 times and it's a beautiful country - if you can get there it's well worth the trip. You can get the chrome strips from your local dealer - I've replaced them on a couple of Jetta/Golfs over the years and it's pretty easy except for removing the old adhesive tape.
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Oct 11, 2010 16:52
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havelock posted:Are APR chips with stock mode and lockout really undetectable? That's hard to say since if the lockout does work I wouldn't see it on a scan tool. My guess is that the lockout is currently effective but our scan tools are constantly being updated so it's possible that a software fix might be able to detect second party programming. As to whether or not VW/Audi cares enough about aftermarket chipping to spend the time and money on making a program to deal with it is another story. In the newest Audi products we're starting to see event recorders that actually log and give real information that we can easily access. Not long ago we had a new S4 with a destroyed clutch (at around 4500 kms or so). The owner told the service advisor that he has was leaving a stop light and the clutch just let go. On inspection, the event recorder had logged 5+ 5000 RPM clutch dumps* including the one that finally ended the transmission's life - warranty claim: denied. If the event recorder can see and record such things I don't know how it would react to aftermarket chipping. *edited my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 17:03
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havelock posted:Are APR chips with stock mode and lockout really undetectable?
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Oct 11, 2010 17:27
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my1999gsr posted:5+ 5000 RPM 1-2 gear shifts clutch dumps or 1 -> 2 shifts? seems like 1 -> 2 at 5k RPM shouldn't be that stressful... a dozen 5k RPM clutch dumps, i'd understand how that might fall under the umbrella of "abuse" speaking of which -- have you ever seen a GTI whose DSG failed from a 3k RPM launch using launch control? i've never heard of one letting go, didn't know if you had. considering chipping after i get out of warranty, and it seems like for the first time ever a VW automatic transmission isn't the weak point of the car
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Oct 11, 2010 17:33
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primitive posted:clutch dumps or 1 -> 2 shifts? seems like 1 -> 2 at 5k RPM shouldn't be that stressful... Yea, I was going to say the same thing. I tend to run through at least 3/4 of the rev range or so in first no matter what I'm driving or how hard I'm driving it, which in anything with a 6000+ redline means I'm right there, so the idea of a few 5000 RPM 1-2 shifts voiding a warranty seems absurd. 5000 RPM clutch drop launches, sure, but 1-2 in an S4 any time you're driving it remotely hard should be there or higher. Hell, especially an S car, since they're intended to be driven harder. e: speaking of shifting, is it normal for a DSG to seem to hesitate a bit before it decides to shift at WOT? My roommate has let me drive his GTI on the local drag strip a few times and it seems when I stick it in "S" and just go for a launch control point-and-shoot drag race it'll get just short of redline, back off the throttle slightly, then shift and go on like normal. If I run it in manual mode or just flip the paddle it'll shift instantly when asked, but the S program seems to hold the gear for a bit before upshifting. I can consistently get 2-3 tenths better ETs just by shifting manually at the exact same RPM. e2: vvv I should note this car has APR Stage 1, though that should not affect the DSG program to my knowledge. wolrah fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Oct 11, 2010 |
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Oct 11, 2010 17:45
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wolrah posted:is it normal for a DSG to seem to hesitate a bit before it decides to shift at WOT? mine does the same i think a chip is supposed to smooth that out and quicken shifts across the board
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Oct 11, 2010 18:37
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BonzoESC posted:Aftermarket parts won't void your warranty outright; only if they are the cause for the warranty claim. http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/magmoss.htm I understand that, it's just that there's a lot of potentially expensive things that could be claimed to have been affected by the chip.
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Oct 11, 2010 19:04
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So I have a shitton of tiny vertical scratches on the inside of my driver's door window. ('08 GTI). The scratches aren't clustered in one particular area, they're all over the place. I'm assuming that the window is misaligned. I'm going to take it in to the dealership while it's still under warranty, but I'm worried that they're going to balk at replacing the whole window. Has anybody else experienced this problem? I know that the MkIVs were known for window regulators going out, but I've never seen anything like this before.
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Oct 12, 2010 04:56
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Can you take a picture? My windows get vertical streaks every once in a while, but scratches..
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Oct 12, 2010 05:17
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primitive posted:clutch dumps or 1 -> 2 shifts? seems like 1 -> 2 at 5k RPM shouldn't be that stressful... I haven't seen a DSG failure that we could specifically link to launch control but we also didn't/don't sell that many cars equipped with it so there's not much test data for me to pull from. On the other hand, the DSG hasn't been a very reliable transmission overall - lots of failures, but the newer cars don't seem to have the same failure rate so that's a good sign. It's probably just my bias but I'd be hesitant to chip a car with a DSG tranny. I'm sure there's lots and lots of people that are doing it with no problems but the cost of a tranny is so high that I'd be nervous about doing it. Sorry, I meant to say that the event recorded logged more than 5 clutch dumps at 5000+ RPM in first gear - the ECU notes gear, clutch position, and RPM to provide the info.
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Oct 12, 2010 15:04
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wolrah posted:Yea, I was going to say the same thing. I tend to run through at least 3/4 of the rev range or so in first no matter what I'm driving or how hard I'm driving it, which in anything with a 6000+ redline means I'm right there, so the idea of a few 5000 RPM 1-2 shifts voiding a warranty seems absurd. 5000 RPM clutch drop launches, sure, but 1-2 in an S4 any time you're driving it remotely hard should be there or higher. Hell, especially an S car, since they're intended to be driven harder. It's funny - some of the DSG trannys seem to have a little hesitation on full throttle shifting but we've never been able to pin down a reason why and our tech support hasn't been forthcoming with any answers either.
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Oct 12, 2010 15:07
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Trans Ferdinand posted:So I have a shitton of tiny vertical scratches on the inside of my driver's door window. ('08 GTI). The scratches aren't clustered in one particular area, they're all over the place. I'm assuming that the window is misaligned. There may be a technical bulletin about this... Nope. The window regulator on the newer Golf/Jetta is different from the old failure-prone type on previous models. If your car has warranty and there's scratches on the inside of the glass then the dealership shouldn't have any problem replacing the glass if the damage is caused by a manufacturing defect. I've seen several cases of exterior glass scratches caused by sand/debris getting trapped in the window seal that runs along the bottom of the window so it's certainly possible that your inner seal has some sand trapped in it too. There's not really any mechanism inside your door that can cause the scratches you're describing so my guess is that you've got some debris in the seal and the motion of your window going up and down has scratched the glass. At my dealership you'd get a new window and a new seal under warranty and our warranty admin. would take care of the rest but your experience may differ.
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Oct 12, 2010 15:20
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BonzoESC posted:Aftermarket parts won't void your warranty outright; only if they are the cause for the warranty claim. http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/magmoss.htm It's kind of a gray area really. Should the installation of an aftermarket chip void your warranty? Not if it's installed correctly. The real problem is what you do with your car after the chip is installed. If you drive it mostly the same as before (some hard driving, but not constant hooning around) then you're not making the car operate outside the limits that the engineers designed it for. If the chip you get severely alters a parameter (redline RPM for instance) and the damage is a direct result of that (generally difficult to prove) then that's when problems with warranty coverage start to show up. Alot of how your warranty claim is handled depends on your relationship with the dealership - if the mods you've got aren't that obvious and you've been a good customer then we tend to go out of our way to get your claim covered by warranty or a goodwill. We've denied far more claims for improper maintenance than performance mods over the years so take from that whatever you like. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Oct 12, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 15:35
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks I'm not a bit surprised that the GTIs dyno better than they're rated - that 2.0T is so much more powerful and less laggy than the 1.8T it replaced. I tend to compare it to my car with around 200 hp at the wheels (and far less torque) and I'm impressed every time by how smooth it is. If you're interested in some recommendations for trips to Cuba let me know - I'd be happy to provide any information you need.
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Oct 12, 2010 15:43
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Would anyone be able to tell me the risks involved in getting a used 1997 Jetta GL with manual at 180,000 miles? I understand that the third generation wasn't particularly well known for reliability and if I'm getting a used Point A --> Point B car it's better to get a Honda or Toyota but the availability of used cars in my area are very limited. I'm not dead set on it but it's going for $1300 so I figured I'd ask since I don't know anything about them.
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Oct 12, 2010 15:45
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Checked the oil today and the level was in the middle of the center measuring area, but then I noticed the car wasn't on a completely even surface, it was on a bit of a downward slope. Seems like every time I check oil level the result is slightly different, and the dipstick is a pain to read... I don't want to overfill it.
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Oct 12, 2010 21:32
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Bizarro Watt posted:Would anyone be able to tell me the risks involved in getting a used 1997 Jetta GL with manual at 180,000 miles? I understand that the third generation wasn't particularly well known for reliability and if I'm getting a used Point A --> Point B car it's better to get a Honda or Toyota but the availability of used cars in my area are very limited. I'm not dead set on it but it's going for $1300 so I figured I'd ask since I don't know anything about them. Whenever a A3-style Jetta or Golf gets traded in at my dealership all the techs jump on it - they're simple to understand and easy/cheap to repair so they tend to be in demand. If the 97 you're looking at is in decent shape (definitely look closely at the brake lines and front rad support) then it should be a decent choice and even more so if it's a diesel.
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Oct 13, 2010 00:24
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If its a diesel and has been taken car of even a little that is a huge steal.
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Oct 13, 2010 00:27
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Can anyone recommend a good place to buy after market parts for a 1996 A4 quattro with the b5 in it? Thanks
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Oct 13, 2010 00:47
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Beta Ray Bill posted:Can anyone recommend a good place to buy after market parts for a 1996 A4 quattro with the b5 in it? Thanks Performance or OEM replacement? I usually go with: https://www.ecstuning.com https://www.jhmotorsports.com https://www.blauparts.com https://www.awe-tuning.com edit: also, B5 is the generation, not the engine type. IE 94-01 is B5, 01-05 is B6, 05-08 is B7, etc. Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 01:00
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Hi guys I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8T that has suddenly refused to start. A few days ago, it would start but it struggled to do so, seemed like a dying battery. The interior and dash lights dimmed and it took quite some effort to turn over very slowly It did this twice on Saturday but eventually started in both cases. However, today it won't even attempt to turn over, and instead just makes a rapid clicking sound when turning the key. My wife had a AAA guy come out during the day today while at work, they tried jumping it and even replacing the battery but it still won't start. We didn't keep the battery as we would have had to pay for it without knowing whether that was actually the problem. So now I'm home this evening trying to figure out what's going on. When I tried starting it myself (with the original battery), it still does the same clicking. However I noticed that the interior lights and dash lights were very dim during this so it still makes me think this is the primary culprit. I actually have a battery charger in my posession at the moment, so my questions are 1) should I try charging the battery (either for a short bit or perhaps overnight, it's an automated charger) and then see if I can get it to turn over? 2) after a bit of googling I've found people mention a fuel pump relay as well as fuses being possible culprits. Is it possible that the battery dying caused something downstream to fail as well, and that's why simply replacing the battery didn't work? Thanks goons!
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Oct 13, 2010 02:19
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Dead starter?
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Oct 13, 2010 05:18
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Autism Sundae posted:Dead starter? The fact that swapping the battery didn't work made me think that initially too, but everything being dim in the interior when I tried to start it tonight makes me think the battery is partially to blame
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Oct 13, 2010 05:32
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vanilla slimfast posted:Hi guys Find someone with a voltmeter, check the battery voltage and report back.
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Oct 13, 2010 22:58
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Bizarro Watt posted:Would anyone be able to tell me the risks involved in getting a used 1997 Jetta GL with manual at 180,000 miles? I understand that the third generation wasn't particularly well known for reliability and if I'm getting a used Point A --> Point B car it's better to get a Honda or Toyota but the availability of used cars in my area are very limited. I'm not dead set on it but it's going for $1300 so I figured I'd ask since I don't know anything about them. I had a 95 GL before I bought my GLI and it never left me stranded, but it was slow as poo poo and I beat the piss out of it.
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Oct 13, 2010 23:52
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my1999gsr posted:Find someone with a voltmeter, check the battery voltage and report back. I have a cheapo multimeter, it was reading just over 11 volts when I checked it last night. Went ahead and took it to a shop today on the advice of a friend of mine who's an Audi mechanic but doesn't live in town near me. We'll see what they say when they look at it Thanks all 
vanilla slimfast fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 23:56
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vanilla slimfast posted:I have a cheapo multimeter, it was reading just over 11 volts when I checked it last night. Well, 11 volts is far below required voltage in an automobile - 12.5 V or more is optimal so it's not a surprise that you've got a no-start. As long as that's the only problem then a new battery should set you right.
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Oct 14, 2010 02:42
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my1999gsr posted:Well, 11 volts is far below required voltage in an automobile - 12.5 V or more is optimal so it's not a surprise that you've got a no-start. As long as that's the only problem then a new battery should set you right. That was my thought too, so I was surprised when the AAA replacement battery didn't work either. But I wasn't there when they were swapping it so who knows. I'll report back what the shop finds out just the same, assuming they get a chance to look at it tomorrow
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Oct 14, 2010 05:09
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Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate it. I looked at the car today (He said he hasn't had any other real serious buyers and isn't in a hurry to sell it). Didn't see any rust and everything under the hood looked fine. Engine seemed strong and the brakes performed well and the transmission shifted fine, though I'm not all that great with a manual yet. The owner has had it since 1998 and has very extensive service records including small things such as oil changes, however about 5 years (80,000 miles) ago the entire transmission had to be replaced, which as far as I know isn't generally needed for manual cars. Any thoughts on this? Also, the clear coat applied by the dealer before he bought it is peeling so it's not exactly pretty but I don't think that'd be indicative of anything else. And there's a crack in the windshield which will get me pulled over in CA and I'm guessing it'd be about $300 to replace? Also, he pointed out to me that I'd want to get the distributor cap replaced soon as it's cracked from when someone else tried to take it off.
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Oct 16, 2010 23:38
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my1999gsr posted:Just got back from vacation in Cuba but stay the hell away from the Allroad - when any one of the bags for the air suspension go (and they will) it's about $1000 per corner to replace them. Also if the pump for the air suspension shits the bed (and it will) that'll be another $800+ to replace. Add to that the cost of turbos (when they finally go bad) and possibly cats (when the flex pipe breaks) it all adds up to so much more trouble than it's possibly worth. No worries here. When I went to go test drive it, I wasn't on the lot for more than a minute before I decided no. The dealer had the car listed on their website as manual, and the first thing I saw was the automatic transmission. I thought that maybe then I just read the site wrong. Nope, sticker in the window says "Manual Transmission!!" as if it was a feature. Looked back down into the car, still an automatic. If they can't figure that poo poo out I didn't want to even find out about what else couldn't be right about it. Thanks for the advice though, I guess the Allroad is just a car I should admire from a distance.
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Oct 17, 2010 03:04
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My first ever CEL  09 GTI, 2.0 TSI, 16000 miles P2015: intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit range/performance Searching around says it's a known issue and they'll replace the "Variable Intake Manifold Adjusting Unit" under warranty. http://myfastgti.com/volkswagen/threads/12359-cel-code-P2015-intake-manifold-malfunction The car idles rough when cold, and goes back to normal when warm (other than the CEL). Is this a serious issue that will blow up my car and kill my mother if I drive it around, or will I at least be able to get it to the dealer?
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Oct 18, 2010 17:38
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vanilla slimfast posted:That was my thought too, so I was surprised when the AAA replacement battery didn't work either. But I wasn't there when they were swapping it so who knows. An update for the morbidly curious. Talked to the shop on Friday and they said the car started right up when they tried it. This was of course after the battery had been disconnected for two days. They load tested it this morning and it failed so clearly it was not holding enough charge to turn the engine over. They're replacing the battery and then doing further diagnostics to make sure nothing else is messed up.
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Oct 18, 2010 17:41
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MY GIRLFRIEND has a MKIV Jetta and the lighter socket in the console pooped out on her. The fuse is good, and the wire is plugged into the socket, but I didn't check the actual wire for power with my multimeter. Do the sockets on these just go bad or am I going to have to trace the wire and take the dash apart?
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Oct 18, 2010 18:32
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