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No, it was 1/2 and I went back and forth on rerunning supply with 3/4, but the amount of drywall I would have had to tear out and replace was ridiculous. I still get pretty good flow, it would just be nice to have higher pressure with both opened all the way up. I'll experiment with heads and see.
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Oct 8, 2010 21:00
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Well I filed for my 45 dollar repiping permit and it was accepted. Placed the order for the PEX, should be here by the end of this week. Might start Thurs/Friday if it gets here in time, otherwise its the weekend. How long do you let the ProPEX expansion connections sit before you go full pressure? I know it doesnt have a cure time or anything like since no glue or cement, but unlike that metal expansion fitting style, I have read in places that you need to wait X amount of time. The Uponor site doesn't really cover any of this.
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Oct 11, 2010 15:52
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dietcokefiend posted:Well I filed for my 45 dollar repiping permit and it was accepted. Placed the order for the PEX, should be here by the end of this week. Might start Thurs/Friday if it gets here in time, otherwise its the weekend. Depends on temperature. Inside your house it should be fine with in ten minutes. If you have any problem , and a ring wont seal you can try using a heat gun on it. (when the pressure is released off the system obviously.)
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Oct 11, 2010 17:35
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Depends on temperature. Inside your house it should be fine with in ten minutes. If you have any problem , and a ring wont seal you can try using a heat gun on it. (when the pressure is released off the system obviously.) Makes sense. I guess I will wait an hour or so and if anything leaks, consider the joint bad and redo it. Also I got the slip-fittings with the stops builtin, so hopefully wont have to worry too much about correct overhand distance and stuff.
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Oct 11, 2010 17:48
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dietcokefiend posted:Makes sense. I guess I will wait an hour or so and if anything leaks, consider the joint bad and redo it. What are the slip fittings with stops built in?
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Oct 11, 2010 18:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:What are the slip fittings with stops built in? http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-Q4690512-ProPEX-Ring-with-Stop-1-2-blue-print-2298000-p those little doodads
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Oct 11, 2010 18:54
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dietcokefiend posted:http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-Q4690512-ProPEX-Ring-with-Stop-1-2-blue-print-2298000-p Oh you got rings with stops in it. The only thing I don't like about them is you have to feel for the stop because they don't mark which side it's on. And if you have gloves you can't feel it.
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Oct 11, 2010 19:22
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Oh you got rings with stops in it. The only thing I don't like about them is you have to feel for the stop because they don't mark which side it's on. And if you have gloves you can't feel it. Hahaha, gloves  I fully expect somewhere along my plumbing run that one of the white pex lines will be stained red from some massive gash.
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Oct 11, 2010 19:26
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Thanks again! I've finally broken the concrete up and am about to install my new 2" line but I have a question about the P-trap configuration at the shower. I found the main 4" drain line in the floor pretty much where I expected it, and by my estimation the highest point of the 4" pvc pipe is about 4" below the solid concrete layer. Now I know I need approx 1/4" slope for every foot of pipe I run and it's about an 8' run to the shower so I'm looking at 2" of rise from the shower to the 4" wye. At this point I'm wondering which way to configure the p-trap to ensure I have slope and I'm below concrete. By my calculations, since the 2" part of the 4x4x2 wye is slightly lower than the top of the 4" line, I have approx 5" of space at the wye from the main stack to the lower concrete level. If the 2" line runs up 2" in the 8' run, then my 2" shower line should be 3" below the concrete when it finally reaches the shower right? Now since the clearance is low, I'm wondering if it's possible to configure the p-trap so that the shower is a straight vertical drop into the U part of the trap, then the trap rises to a 90" bend and that same 90" bend then travels horizontally on the slope to the main 4x4x2 wye. (Of course vented along the way). Is this possible? Or do I need another two 90" bends to give the water level a slight drop before the horizontal run? The attached pic has both examples.
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Oct 12, 2010 04:52
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Ahz posted:Thanks again! The top pic is correct, while the bottom trap is an S trap and will give you a lot of issues. Why can't you dig down further and put the p trap further into the ground. That is the norm even if you need to jack hammer out dirt or rock to make the p trap fit.
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Oct 12, 2010 06:33
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Thanks, Actually the top pic is ideal for me as the horizontal run will begin at a higher elevation in relation to the downstream 4x4x2 wye. It will be easy to bury the lower section of the p-trap in sand and I just wanted to ensure I would have good flow as I wasn't sure I would considering the horizontal run. My other question may be more local code related, but I just measured the horizontal run and it's just about 8.5 feet from the p-trap to the wye. Are there any issues if I grade the horizontal run slightly more than 2" like 2 1/4" instead? Or would 2" be the maximum? What is a good way to measure the slope over the run? I was thinking of using a 4 foot level and measuring the offset every 4 feet from the next highest point, and if the offset is 1" per 4' when I should be fine right?
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Oct 12, 2010 13:54
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Ahz posted:Thanks, It's fine if you over grade it. It won't cause any issue with the flow. Also I'd suggest getting one of these graduated levels that show grade. You can put it right on the pipe and it will tell if its 1/8, 1/4/,3/8, or 1/2.  http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xim/R-100081706/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
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Oct 12, 2010 16:06
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:It's fine if you over grade it. It won't cause any issue with the flow. You need to mind the slope for vents, though. You can only drop the width of the pipe.
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Oct 12, 2010 16:39
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 My "Replace CPVC with PEX in Basement" permit was accepted and mailed to me. PEX arrives Wednesday, although also closing on my home refinance loan Wednesday, so probably wont start the replumb till late Wed night or Thursday. Gotta get it all done and inspected on next Monday though since drywall gets installed Tuesday.
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Oct 12, 2010 16:56
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dietcokefiend posted:
Good luck on it.
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Oct 12, 2010 18:43
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grover posted:You need to mind the slope for vents, though. You can only drop the width of the pipe. I am unsure of what you mean here. Could you elaborate ?
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Oct 12, 2010 18:51
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Good luck on it. Any final tips on PEX crap? I found out after my first CPVC install that I did it with the wrong glue On each squeeze of the expansion tool you are supposed to move it 45 degrees or 1/8th of a turn. Do you need to rotate clockwise the entire time or could it be rotate 45 clockwise, rotate 45 counter, etc etc. Wondering if I need to spin the drat lines around the head or can just go back and forth as needed.
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Oct 13, 2010 00:00
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dietcokefiend posted:Any final tips on PEX crap? I found out after my first CPVC install that I did it with the wrong glue You spin the expander itself. Basicly expand pipe, contract expander rotate 1/8th expand, contract and rotate. Keep doing till you get the entire head in the expander. If may come with some black grease you can use. To apply remove head, apply thin layer of grease to cone of expander. Put head back on and you are good to go.
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Oct 13, 2010 01:00
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You spin the expander itself. Basicly expand pipe, contract expander rotate 1/8th expand, contract and rotate. Keep doing till you get the entire head in the expander. If may come with some black grease you can use. To apply remove head, apply thin layer of grease to cone of expander. Put head back on and you are good to go. So the expander head can rotate without rotating the tool itself?
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Oct 13, 2010 01:17
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I am unsure of what you mean here. Could you elaborate ?
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Oct 13, 2010 02:39
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grover posted:The code limitations for the length of horizontal run before hitting the vent stack are based on 1/8" or 1/4" as appropriate. If you go steeper without moving the vent, you run the risk of the pipe not venting properly and siphoning out the P-trap (or S-trap). Ya I see what you are saying, but I didn't go in detail because he was only talking about running that a little more then 1/4 per foot.
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Oct 13, 2010 03:48
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dietcokefiend posted:So the expander head can rotate without rotating the tool itself? If its fully contracted it can spin but its usually easier to rotate the hole thing. Then once you put pressure on the head you can move the handles to more manageable position.
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Oct 13, 2010 04:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If its fully contracted it can spin but its usually easier to rotate the hole thing. Then once you put pressure on the head you can move the handles to more manageable position. With loose pipe in my hand that wouldnt be a problem, but I\m thinking of some of the longer runs I need to do where turning the entire tool in a joist space might not be easy.
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Oct 13, 2010 04:14
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dietcokefiend posted:With loose pipe in my hand that wouldnt be a problem, but I\m thinking of some of the longer runs I need to do where turning the entire tool in a joist space might not be easy. You barely have to turn the tool, like an 1/8th inch. After each expand, pull out slightly and rotate briefly, start to expand and then the head will stay in place while the handles can rotate for positioning. Here is a video of it but he doesn't do a great job rotating.
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Oct 13, 2010 04:35
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You barely have to turn the tool, like an 1/8th inch. After each expand, pull out slightly and rotate briefly, start to expand and then the head will stay in place while the handles can rotate for positioning. Interesting... I guess I will figure that one out when the tool gets here tomorrow. From what I understand the heads screw on to the tool. Do they clip on or attach without threads? It seems like if the head can always be rotated it would eventually reach a point where it is fully tight or loose enough that is just falls off  I bought some extra fittings and have plenty of extra pipe. I will just play around for a while before I start doing any of the actual fittings. Worst case I just buy like 300 bucks worth of shark fittings from Home Depot for my entire setup :iamafag:
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Oct 13, 2010 04:44
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dietcokefiend posted:Interesting... I guess I will figure that one out when the tool gets here tomorrow. Sorry I forgot to post the video link. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6z06qjFxGjI&p=192FC23109ED27D2&playnext=1&index=11
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Oct 13, 2010 04:47
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Are there any issues with two vent stacks connecting (above the highest fixture of course) really close to each other? Since I needed a cleanout when my new shower vent comes up from the floor, the best position to come out of the floor was right beside the current vent stack that it's going to connect to, within 1". My plan is to run the vent up about 6' and then connect them with a 90 bend on the new line into a T on the vent line. Are there any issues with this? What if the connection sort of pushes the stacks away from each other since the connections seem to stick out about 1" or more per line. If the lines are too close to connect, my other thought was to install a slight bend in the vent stack with a 45, then a T(which joins the new vent to the current), then a 45 to return the vent to its original position after the connection was made.
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Oct 13, 2010 15:00
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Ahz posted:Are there any issues with two vent stacks connecting (above the highest fixture of course) really close to each other? Edit: In my early morning daze I accidentally clicked submit. One inch between the vents won't be enough room. You will have to offset one away with two 45's. You could even get away with using a Street 45 and a regular 45 to give you the needed offset. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 16:45
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Got all my spiffy PEX poo poo today, honestly the ProPEX thing isnt that bad. The expansion head sits inside the connector ring and can be spun around by itself. Now the only paranoia relates to if I spun it the right number of degrees or not Got about 40-50% of the plumbing built alongside and ready to be lifted up. Need to make some of the longer runs that connect the various sides, but its all good. Only problem right now is I forgot to buy a reducer fitting/ So I will have a dedicated 3/4 hot water line going to a single bathroom faucet  . Going to get a 3/4 to 1/2 sharkbite to make that connection to the existing CPVC.
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Oct 14, 2010 01:22
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dietcokefiend posted:Got all my spiffy PEX poo poo today, honestly the ProPEX thing isnt that bad. The expansion head sits inside the connector ring and can be spun around by itself. Now the only paranoia relates to if I spun it the right number of degrees or not The only reason you spin the head is to make sure the pipe doesnt get groves in it from part of the head that splits when expanding. You can go turn clock wise then counter clock wise and you will be fine. And over sizing a water line will do nothing bad, and you will get more volume.
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Oct 14, 2010 06:10
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Did the french want some sort of revenge for designing that drat expander tool? Its the most awkward tool I have ever used, and extremely painful to use. I try to brace it on my hip, only to have to slip down towards my front side. I can't just reposition it mid-expand cause I dont want to screw up the PEX, so I end up stabbing myself just above my balls. Also I figured out a way around my missing reducer. I found a creative way of using a T joint which now spits out 1/2 hot in the direction I need it to go.
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Oct 14, 2010 16:27
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dietcokefiend posted:Did the french want some sort of revenge for designing that drat expander tool? Its the most awkward tool I have ever used, and extremely painful to use. I try to brace it on my hip, only to have to slip down towards my front side. I can't just reposition it mid-expand cause I dont want to screw up the PEX, so I end up stabbing myself just above my balls. I'd suggest manning up with the expander. You think thats bad, one inch pipe in the cold is a major bitch. If I have to hold the pipe and expand it above me I usually rest one handle on the left forearm while holding the pipe with the left hand. Then I use my right to expand it.
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Oct 14, 2010 22:06
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I also updated the OP but I took my commercial journeyman test 0ct 7th. Today I found out I passed. I am very excited because the test is pretty difficult and most people fail the first time.
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Oct 15, 2010 01:39
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Is there any reason one couldnt reclaim previously "used" plastic PEX fittings? For the hell of it I took a razor to a cut out one and carefully sliced through the PEX tubing. Even went as far as tearing the final paper-thin section of pipe to not nick the fitting itself. Is it just the fact that it takes about 10-15 minutes per tube fitting to remove the old crap that they are considered junk? I know the brass ones you can just melt the old tube off. Don't plan on using any of the old fittings, but it came to mind when I realized I have no spares of a certain fitting left.
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Oct 15, 2010 04:09
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 Found this while looking at PEX info vids.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7xTXGj9_Zrs
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Oct 15, 2010 04:51
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You can reuse old fittings as long as you don't scar the fitting itself.
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Oct 15, 2010 17:38
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You can reuse old fittings as long as you don't scar the fitting itself. Figured as much. In other news PEX runs are awesome when framing is already up. I am just snaking lines through the basement and the framing sections keep it in place before I even install hangers.
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Oct 15, 2010 18:12
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 One leaking joint, and to top it off its not even one of the PEX connections technically. My male PEX to female 3/4 NPT fitting is leaking at the threads. I had perfect amounts of thread compound on the male threads, brushed evenly around the entire thread surface.Should I try teflon tape instead? I have tightened and re-tightened this fitting and it still has a very very small leak. Its a brass to brass connection, using TFE paste if that matters.
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Oct 16, 2010 06:09
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dietcokefiend posted:
Wrap teflon tape and then put pipe dope on it. Three-five wraps of dope clock wise ( if you are looking at the face of the threads , and wrap it clock wise from there) then the tape wont get backed out when you tighten the F.I.P (female Iron Pipe)
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Oct 16, 2010 06:49
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wrap teflon tape and then put pipe dope on it. Three-five wraps of dope clock wise ( if you are looking at the face of the threads , and wrap it clock wise from there) then the tape wont get backed out when you tighten the F.I.P (female Iron Pipe) I made like 7 other brass NPT connections using pipe compound only. Don't look like they are leaking, but should I re-do those as well?
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Oct 16, 2010 06:55
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