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Current rates are 1.9% for that term, what reasons did they give you for not giving you the promotional rate?
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Oct 13, 2010 22:00
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bull3964 posted:Current rates are 1.9% for that term, what reasons did they give you for not giving you the promotional rate? Credit score
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Oct 13, 2010 22:18
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bull3964 posted:Current rates are 1.9% for that term, what reasons did they give you for not giving you the promotional rate? 650 credit score and I'm a first time buyer with no real credit outside of credit cards to speak of. This is with me putting 13,000 Dollars down on the 2011. For the Used 2005 STI I'm looking at I could get a loan for 10k which would be 4k less than the dealer loan and I would be able to keep 3k in the bank to help keep my savings intact. The payment would be ~200/mo less as well on the loan. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 22:25
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uh yeah you might want to shop around. 650 is like "normal" but without having a big credit thing showing up, it might be more difficult. Still, 9% is horrible and not worth even thinking about. I'm assuming if you're putting $13k down on the car your debt to income ratio won't be out of sorts, of course. That's another big thing nowadays. Check to see if you qualify for a credit union (you can pay $30 to the National PTA and become a member of Alliant Credit Union) or specialty loan companies like up2drive.com (dumb site name, but they're a wing of BMW). Just go out there and apply for a lot and see what sticks so long as you're definitely looking for a loan. Getting continuous credit checks isn't healthy unless you actually do get a loan to help bump the score up.
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Oct 13, 2010 23:31
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Yeah I have no Debt, I am joining a credit union tomorrow, I tried today but there was some think in some kind of checking system that said I owed Wells Fargo money (I've never had a Wells Fargo account) so I had to go over there and get them to send me a letter saying that I don't actually owe them anything. They told me it took 24 hours and I would get it via e-mail  I'm thinking it might be better just to go with the STI, have some extra savings and a lower payment. I also thought 8.9 was a bit of a joke. I don't have ANY debt at all. I owe nothing and have very few bills. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 13, 2010 23:38
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A CU will give you a better rate, maybe not phenomenal rate, but a better rate. Car loan will help improve your credit score/history a lot, though. Just want to try to get the interest rate closer to 6% or so with your credit history.
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Oct 13, 2010 23:46
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Bob Log posted:some kind of checking system that said I owed Wells Fargo money (I've never had a Wells Fargo account) If this is affecting your credit you should get it cleaned up asap. Did the finance person at subaru shop around to any of the local credit unions?
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Oct 14, 2010 00:23
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One question, you should ask yourself about the used STI. Can you afford for the engine to go? (That bodykit is ugly as sin :x) Used turbo cars always scare the crap out of me.
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Oct 14, 2010 01:42
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c355n4 posted:Used turbo cars always scare the crap out of me. I hear you, I also agree about the bodykit, It seems like it belongs on a Acura. I'm sure I can end up pawning it off on some sap for the stock parts + cash. I think you have a valid point about the engine, and I could afford it. BUT it was freshly built with less than 1000mi on the engine so I think the Transmission is the next worry. I have enough cash set aside to put a new engine in it if I need to.
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Oct 14, 2010 02:35
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Bob Log posted:BUT it was freshly built with less than 1000mi on the engine That would be a worry spot for me. Freshly rebuilt means it could go again soon if it wasn't rebuilt properly. Hell it might have been a bad rebuild and is showing signs of blowing and thats why its for sale. I don't want to scare you away here, just be careful around rebuilt engines with less than 20k miles on them.
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Oct 14, 2010 03:09
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Bob Log posted:I hear you, I also agree about the bodykit, It seems like it belongs on a Acura. I'm sure I can end up pawning it off on some sap for the stock parts + cash. The body kit isn't half as bad as the wheels. Are those stripes of color typically part of the wheel or an add-on?
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Oct 14, 2010 03:24
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Veins McGee posted:The body kit isn't half as bad as the wheels. Are those stripes of color typically part of the wheel or an add-on? They're special edition wheels!
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Oct 14, 2010 03:50
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Veins McGee posted:The body kit isn't half as bad as the wheels. Are those stripes of color typically part of the wheel or an add-on? The red lip is for "Time Attacks" special editions of wheels, they're for looks only. I will be painting those over and getting the lugs blacked out too first thing. Second thing would be to replace the turbo just to be safe. The Engine was built by a relatively reputable guy up here. He screwed me over personally on an engine he built me but I am the only person who seems to have ever had a problem with him. I just met up and drove it, the bodykit doesn't photograph well by any stretch of the imagination. Other than that the car was solid, I noticed a noise under boost that could be attributed to a number of things from boost leaks to turbo spool or even electronic in nature due to the strange pitch. My original instinct said it was a boost leak but I'm unsure, I'm going to have it inspected and then go from there.
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Oct 14, 2010 05:30
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Bob Log posted:The Engine was built by a relatively reputable guy up here. He screwed me over personally on an engine he built me but I am the only person who seems to have ever had a problem with him. Well thats a good sign. Any indication though as to why hes selling so soon after the rebuild?
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Oct 14, 2010 15:07
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8ender posted:Well thats a good sign. Any indication though as to why hes selling so soon after the rebuild? He hasn't had time to drive it and his employer has given him a car that he drives all the time. He has a 3 hour commute (one way) every day and doesn't have time outside his work to enjoy it. He seems like a stand up guy, so I'm going to take it to a different local mechanic I trust to check it over.
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Oct 14, 2010 15:23
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Bob Log posted:Motul, Amsoil or Mobil 1 (worst choice) and nothing else (Edit: I suppose there's others that are OK, but I wouldn't use anything else). You can pick your poison for viscosity based on your climate. Shell Rotella is known for being an excellent oil. Similarly, Pentosin and Lubromoly make excellent full group IV oils. There are many others as well. Hell, all of these are probably better than Mobil 1, which if I recall correct, is almost all group III anyhow these days. I'm running 5w-40 lubromoly in my LGT and getting excellent UOAs.
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Oct 14, 2010 16:05
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Has anyone replaced their oil pickup tube with an aftermarket one yet? I'm thinking about getting it done early with my other mods so I don't have to think about it a few years down the road.
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Oct 14, 2010 16:09
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blargle posted:Has anyone replaced their oil pickup tube with an aftermarket one yet? I'm thinking about getting it done early with my other mods so I don't have to think about it a few years down the road. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Oct 14, 2010 |
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Oct 14, 2010 16:23
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Bob Log posted:He hasn't had time to drive it and his employer has given him a car that he drives all the time. He has a 3 hour commute (one way) every day and doesn't have time outside his work to enjoy it. He seems like a stand up guy, so I'm going to take it to a different local mechanic I trust to check it over. Even stand-up guys will look out for #1 if they have a running car that they think is about to break. There aren't very many used STi's (especially those that are posted on NASIOC) that I'd consider buying. Too much abuse.
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Oct 14, 2010 17:55
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Yay, I finally have a date on my car. They are saying my '11 WRX Premium will arrive on November 1st. Just two more weeks to go!
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Oct 14, 2010 18:00
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bull3964 posted:Yay, I finally have a date on my car. They are saying my '11 WRX Premium will arrive on November 1st. Just two more weeks to go! You're never getting it. In other news, I just purchased a set of Dunlop Direzza Star Specs.  (also if anybody has any OEM WRX 5x100 16" rims PM a brother)
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Oct 14, 2010 22:29
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Moruitelda posted:Even stand-up guys will look out for #1 if they have a running car that they think is about to break. Or just sell it to Sockington real cheap. At least I was honest. Miss you Subaru 
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Oct 15, 2010 00:10
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8ender posted:Or just sell it to Sockington real cheap. At least I was honest. Don't worry, convinced the wife that house updates aren't nearly as important as a running Subaru.
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Oct 15, 2010 05:03
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Picked up a 2011 5-door STI and just finished breaking it in. Flashed it to stage 1 with an accessport, and am loving the gains. A few questions though, Cobb recommended that I change the oil at 1,000 miles and that I should avoid using synthetic for the first 10,000 miles of the engines life. A little concerned about this because I know Subaru is only putting synthetic into the 2011s. If anyone had some input on this it would be greatly appreciated.
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Oct 15, 2010 08:09
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VolumeBroadcast posted:Picked up a 2011 5-door STI and just finished breaking it in. Flashed it to stage 1 with an accessport, and am loving the gains. A few questions though, Cobb recommended that I change the oil at 1,000 miles and that I should avoid using synthetic for the first 10,000 miles of the engines life. A little concerned about this because I know Subaru is only putting synthetic into the 2011s. If anyone had some input on this it would be greatly appreciated. I've been told by many sources to go with Dino Oil during break-in, change early/often during break-in and immediately following. Folks at Subaru said the sooner the better for Synth, so I changed it out at 3k.
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Oct 15, 2010 08:22
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8ender posted:What about the diff lock switch? You must make the diff lock switch. If I'm going to be playing around with the transmission, I'm sure as gently caress going to make sure I've got a spare lined up well ahead of time. How does a 6speed SOHC wagon sound?  (Yeah, slow).
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Oct 15, 2010 16:19
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Cars shouldn't really have excessive leavins' in the engine. Just change it a bit early since the oil has been likely sitting in the car for awhile only having been started up a few times for short jaunts.
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Oct 15, 2010 16:27
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VolumeBroadcast posted:Picked up a 2011 5-door STI and just finished breaking it in. Flashed it to stage 1 with an accessport, and am loving the gains. A few questions though, Cobb recommended that I change the oil at 1,000 miles and that I should avoid using synthetic for the first 10,000 miles of the engines life. A little concerned about this because I know Subaru is only putting synthetic into the 2011s. If anyone had some input on this it would be greatly appreciated. I've heard advice that you should change it early, and advice that there's no need to do so whatsoever. Being that it's a new car, I really wouldn't worry about it as if something goes haywire, it's covered anyway. Another thing to think about, if you really should change your oil at 1k miles or right after the break in because that's what's best to keep the engine running and happy, why isn't the first oil change *scheduled* for 1k miles? Seems like it'd be in Subaru's best interest to keep motors from popping while under warranty (yes yes, piston rings etc etc). That said I did it on both my Caliber and Charger when I first bought them and didn't see anything out of the ordinary while draining the oil. So it doesn't hurt, but don't bother.
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Oct 15, 2010 17:04
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Amandyke posted:Seems like it'd be in Subaru's best interest to keep motors from popping while under warranty (yes yes, piston rings etc etc). Yes, but also in their best interest to allow motors to pop after warranty expires. 
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Oct 15, 2010 17:09
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Any WRX owners interested in buying the stock steering wheel from my '11 STi? Just installed the DAMD flat bottom leather wheel and absolutely love it.
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Oct 15, 2010 17:34
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Someone might be interested in this Subaru UK statement about the 08-09 2.5L STI ring land failures. tldr: "gently caress you, you broke it and blamed it on us." Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Oct 15, 2010 |
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Oct 15, 2010 18:48
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Amandyke posted:I've heard advice that you should change it early, and advice that there's no need to do so whatsoever. Being that it's a new car, I really wouldn't worry about it as if something goes haywire, it's covered anyway. Yeah, whenever I think of break-in oil changes I always wonder why they don't just put it into the scheduled maintainence. You would think if the engine really needed it, it would be in the instruction book. I mean it's a piece of equipment designed and tested by their engineers. You would think they know exactly how to maintain it.
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Oct 15, 2010 20:58
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Moruitelda posted:Yes, but also in their best interest to allow motors to pop after warranty expires. As much as you might think that, cars who have serious engine failure issues after warranty are cars that wont sell well. So it is in their interest to make a car that will last and live up to the quality reputation of Subaru.
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Oct 15, 2010 21:28
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Amandyke posted:As much as you might think that, cars who have serious engine failure issues after warranty are cars that wont sell well. So it is in their interest to make a car that will last and live up to the quality reputation of Subaru. I'm not sure I agree with you on that. The RX-8 has sold very well, despite a long history of regular engine failure in and out of warranty. The 2.5RS has remained a hot commodity despite serious engine failure in the form of terrible head gasket defects. The STi has had block, piston and ring issues and remains a strong seller even in a weak economy. The S2000 had oil starve issues the first couple of years and continued to gain in sales even though it wasn't clear at the time (as far as I know) that the issue had been fixed. When we're talking about a performance vehicle with a decent warranty, a relatively high purchase price, and a rather low mean ownership (how many people really drive a 1-owner STi for 100k+ miles? Not a lot, in my experience), it doesn't matter that much what kind of engine problems it has after the warranty expires - people will buy it if it looks good, performs well, and, at some point, had some reputation for reliability. Any two of those three.
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Oct 15, 2010 22:30
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I think the point is that if there was a way to increase engine longevity and it was as simple as a 1K oil change, why wouldn't they just put it on the maintainence schedule?
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Oct 15, 2010 22:33
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Well.. I'm sitting on my outback and it seems as if the entire ac system has refused to work. The fans wont turn on despite being set to full blast. Also when the front defroster is set to on I feel no air coming through he vents. Insult to injury it's 40 loving degrees out and my seat heaters aren't turning on. What the gently caress?!
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Oct 16, 2010 00:17
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Tiny Faye posted:Well.. I'm sitting on my outback and it seems as if the entire ac system has refused to work. The fans wont turn on despite being set to full blast. Also when the front defroster is set to on I feel no air coming through he vents. Insult to injury it's 40 loving degrees out and my seat heaters aren't turning on. What the gently caress?! Check your fuses!
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Oct 16, 2010 03:54
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Vladimir Putin posted:I think the point is that if there was a way to increase engine longevity and it was as simple as a 1K oil change, why wouldn't they just put it on the maintainence schedule? I already made my devil's advocate  answer to this question, I don't feel the need to repeat myself and draw the conversation on further.
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Oct 16, 2010 06:07
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new parts for me yay: whiteline com-c offset top mounts, roll center kit, and racecomp engineering black springs.  The cool thing is that on my car the tops pretty much only add caster:  car feels pretty good. need to finish the alignment because I did a pretty half-assed job.
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Oct 16, 2010 08:06
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Just finished reading this thread. I have had my 09 WRX for almost exactly a year now. I'd like to address some of the recent questions I've seen and dump some of my experiences. I have had great results with WL bushings and group N mounts. All were pretty quick and easy to install but a few would greatly benefit from being installed on a lift. Mainly for removing some of the more stubborn suspension bolts i.e. space for leverage. Rear diff, rear subframe bushings, motor and tranny mounts all made the car more tight and reduced driveline slop. Some increased NVH but I like it. These are cheap and effective mods and along with sways really improve upon the squishy OE setup. WL sways and Kartboy endlinks. The KB links in the rear are a little bitchy. With the car lifted on jacks etc, the bottom of the spring seat will contact the top of the links. I rotated the struts 180 and no more contact. The links can also be quite loud when torqued to factory specs. I emailed Tom and he recommended I torque them to 55 Nm and no more sound at all and no issues. Those rear sway brackets are a bitch though. Both top mount holes on both sides stripped out. It was hell getting the bolts out. I believe this is common on the newer cars so would recommend new bolts for sure and some self locking nuts for when it does happen. My understanding of the 08 - early 09 engine troubles is related to an internal bearing. Originally the bearing was lead. Subaru switched to silver and that was the issue. The stop sale addressed this by switching back to the original lead bearing. I have the iPod interface adapter in my base WRX OE stereo. I usually browse by artist and you cannot hold down the arrow to quickly cycle through. Also, it reverts to the beginning if you turn off the car. You must click the arrow button a million individual times to move through the alphabet. I loving hate that. I was told it is an Apple patent situation and they own that kind of UI functionality in connection with iPods. I wouldn't doubt it. I have had a few UOAs all with great results. I am using Rotella T6 and I'm not planning on changing. Affordable, high quality specs, reasonably priced, and easy to find. Subaru Extra S gear oil. I really like this stuff. Usually it can only be found in the original 20 liter bucket. Worth it in the long run, the price wipes the floor with something like Motul and most others. $7 a liter opposed to ~$20 for Motul. This is my third manual Subaru and I never had shifting issues. I know the synchros in these cars can be fidgety and this oil works well in that regard and in general. Continental DW and DWS tires. I had the DW for a month and exchanged them for the DWS through the Continental ride quality guarantee. TireRack were huge cocks about it even though Continental foots the bill. Any authorized Continental dealer should honor this agreement so I went local. I actually really like the DWSs. I will not see any snow but even in hot and dry conditions they are great. Wet performance is also very good. They took quite a while to break in so I can't really comment on the DWs. I needed tires but didn't really consider the coming months weather and felt a true all season would be a wiser choice for me. I lean way more towards function over form but thought I would try a visual mod. Painted the silver-gray front grill mustache flat black and love it. My car is white and it really ties the front together with more similar accent colors. Factory service manual. If you don't have one you need one. I got mine on eBay for ten bucks. loving invaluable. Mine is PDF and broken down into main categories-> subcategories. I printed off some common things and put them in some cheap plastic sleeves in a three ring binder. Awesome to have under the car when I need torque values and the oil and grease just wipes off the sleeves. I also bring my laptop to reference anything else if need be. Really like this car. Mine is post stop sale and I never had any major defects. Still have a lot of warranty left so no power mods for me. I'm quite content with current power levels anyhow.
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Oct 16, 2010 20:34
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