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dietcokefiend posted:I made like 7 other brass NPT connections using pipe compound only. Don't look like they are leaking, but should I re-do those as well? No if they aren't leaking don't touch them. The fittings could be cast different, or the threads aren't as type. There are tons of reasons but just fix the ones that leak.
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Oct 16, 2010 07:09
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Just sucks that it had to be the one section that is the biggest bitch to get at. Its the sillsock that you need to reach around a 4-inch vent stack to work with and impossible to do the PEX fitting in that spot. I worked with a few fittings and got the PEX thing made first with an angle joint, then threaded the sillcock in blind from inside the house and tightened that way. oh and FYI 3/4" sillcocks have the same tube diameter as 1/2" sillcocks.
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Oct 16, 2010 07:19
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dietcokefiend posted:Just sucks that it had to be the one section that is the biggest bitch to get at. Its the sillsock that you need to reach around a 4-inch vent stack to work with and impossible to do the PEX fitting in that spot. I worked with a few fittings and got the PEX thing made first with an angle joint, then threaded the sillcock in blind from inside the house and tightened that way. Ya I knew 3/4 and 1/2 hose bibs are the same, its just the threads on the end. edit: I am still curious if the 3/4 to 1/2 pipe connected makes a difference. Even though it ends up going through the same hole. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Oct 16, 2010 |
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Oct 16, 2010 07:33
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya I knew 3/4 and 1/2 hose bibs are the same, its just the threads on the end. The valve hole is like the width of a pencil... if even that wide. I was really tempted just to install a ball valve or something at the wall. Probably for the best though, cause even if I could power 6 rotating sprinklers I would go broke by how much water I was using  In other news, re-did that leaking joint. Took the pex adapter off, inspected the thread surface and pex sealing surface. Had a few rough spots on the PEX rings that I didnt like, but those weren't leaking. This time I only used teflon tape... used like 4-5 turns and put the thing back on. Also replaced the stretch up to one of my PEX T's, carefully cutting off the old line from the plastic junction. Used my 15 minute razor blade method and inspected the part after for any nicks (was none). Let the joints contract for about 20 minutes and turned water back on. So far no leaks!  Got a folded piece of paper towel under the joint right now and will check in for dampness or visible beads of water between now and Monday. Hopefully it was just a wonky joint. If it doesnt leak for the next 48 hours, do you think it will leak anytime in the future?
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Oct 16, 2010 21:19
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dietcokefiend posted:The valve hole is like the width of a pencil... if even that wide. I was really tempted just to install a ball valve or something at the wall. Probably for the best though, cause even if I could power 6 rotating sprinklers I would go broke by how much water I was using If it doesnt leak now it won't leak awhile. You should be great. At work we do a water test and check for any wet spots, If not we clean up, walk through again and leave the job.
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Oct 17, 2010 21:49
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Getting my inspection between 10-2 today. Any idea what to expect  ?
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Oct 18, 2010 13:48
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dietcokefiend posted:Getting my inspection between 10-2 today. Any idea what to expect Them just glancing and asking a few questions. They may suggest some stuff for you to do.
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Oct 18, 2010 17:19
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dietcokefiend posted:Getting my inspection between 10-2 today. Any idea what to expect If it's anything like my electrical rough-in, you'll prepare for two days in advance, draw color coded circuit diagrams and have pages of notes on questions you think they might ask, then on the day of inspection they'll be there for approximately 30 seconds, slap their passed sticker on the closest box to the door and leave. 
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Oct 18, 2010 17:33
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Mthrboard posted:If it's anything like my electrical rough-in, you'll prepare for two days in advance, draw color coded circuit diagrams and have pages of notes on questions you think they might ask, then on the day of inspection they'll be there for approximately 30 seconds, slap their passed sticker on the closest box to the door and leave. My guy was pretty cool, missed one item I later found was wrong, but gave some good advice on some boxes I was doing weird splices on. Gave me a list of corrections but passed it on the assumption i was going to fix the outlined problems.
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Oct 18, 2010 18:18
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dietcokefiend posted:My guy was pretty cool, missed one item I later found was wrong, but gave some good advice on some boxes I was doing weird splices on. Gave me a list of corrections but passed it on the assumption i was going to fix the outlined problems. Ya they usually do that to save time. You have to really bone it to get a fail.
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Oct 18, 2010 18:25
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Wooo, plumbing inspection passed :iamafag: Liked my work, answered a lot of my questions, and even checked my pressure (~60psi).
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Oct 18, 2010 19:00
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God drat now I am wondering if I have everything correct, lines supported, pex protected from expansion wear, etc. Those hard plastic connectors are safe for PEX right
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Oct 19, 2010 03:54
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dietcokefiend posted:God drat now I am wondering if I have everything correct, lines supported, pex protected from expansion wear, etc. Those hard plastic connectors are safe for PEX right Support it every 32 inches vertically and horizontally. And plastic connections are safe.
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Oct 19, 2010 04:14
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Hi plumbing goons! I wish my poo poo would roll downhill, then I could get it out of my toilet! The history here is we were in a crappy house that leaked on us, so we moved into this (very white) house near us. The owners seemed nice, if not dumb, and they were willing to sell us the house for 40k. Well, credit didn't work as planned, but we're trying to fix that. When I did my first walkthrough of the house, the kitchen sink drain lines leaked. They said they'd fix it, which wasn't a huge deal. The problem is it leaked so much it damaged the floor. I finally got around to fixing the leak, and found out it was leaking due to stupidity. First thing I noticed is the actual drain from the sink was incorrectly installed. They put the rubber gasket between the flange and the sink, and nothing on the bottom. Head desking, I went to Wal-Mart and bought a cheap one and some plumber's putty and put it back together, correctly. The second bit that was leaking was one of the pipes (All plastic) had been tightened and overtightened so much that it stripped out and the nut would not tighten at all, and all the O-rings between the nut and pipe were put on backwards. On top of that, the bathroom sink was clogged up something fierce. No amount of drain-o would help it, I ended up using sulfuric acid (Which I might be regretting now) to get the drain to finally open up. Now on to the current problem: I think the main vent (On the bathroom, the kitchen has one of those little caps that vents) that goes outside is either clogged, or my sewage drain is hosed up. I washed some clothes, and ever since then the drains gurgle like mad. If I flush the toilet, it doesn't actually flush, it fills up and slowly drains back out. If I let the bath water out, it gurgles in the toilet (It literally blows it back), bathroom sink and kitchen sink. All of them gurgle when there's any large amount of water exiting. Is there something I can do to check the vent to see if it's clogged, or if that's not the problem, somehow clean out my sewage pipes so I can actually flush the toilet and everything actually go down?
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Oct 20, 2010 04:27
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Gothmog1065 posted:Hi plumbing goons! I wish my poo poo would roll downhill, then I could get it out of my toilet! Sounds like you have a clogged vent and drain line. I'd suggest snaking them all. To snake the vent you will need to get on the roof and snake down.And also find a way to snake the main drain line. Pulling the toilet may be your easiest option.
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Oct 20, 2010 18:59
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Sounds like you have a clogged vent and drain line. I'd suggest snaking them all. To snake the vent you will need to get on the roof and snake down.And also find a way to snake the main drain line. Pulling the toilet may be your easiest option. I'm working on procuring a snake and ladder, is there something I can do while cleaning/put in the drain to help make sure it's good and clean?
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Oct 21, 2010 04:03
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Gothmog1065 posted:I'm working on procuring a snake and ladder, is there something I can do while cleaning/put in the drain to help make sure it's good and clean? You can get a hydro jet that basically hooks up to a hose and shoots water through the pipe. Only problem is it takes the easiest way out of the line, which can sometimes cause it to come out another fixture.
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Oct 21, 2010 05:49
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What is the average amount of time until PEX will stop outgassing into the drinking water? I have noticed that when I pour water for my nightly tea (gently caress you it helps with me coughing  ) that the water has a noticeable smell to it. Running the water for a few seconds seems to clear it up.
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Oct 21, 2010 23:01
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dietcokefiend posted:What is the average amount of time until PEX will stop outgassing into the drinking water? I have noticed that when I pour water for my nightly tea (gently caress you it helps with me coughing That I am unaware of, I have never noticed a taste from the pex.
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Oct 21, 2010 23:36
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I have an incredibly annoying problem with my toilet. It doesn't have a water shutoff valve on the pipe that brings the water to the tank. What has happened is there is a leak where this pipe joins the tank. Everything inside the toilet is grand but this leak is killing me with the constant dripping. I tried to fix it by caulking and pushing the pipe in but I suspect there is some sort of air pressure thing going on with the ballcock, water intake valve thingie that I am not understanding as I heard a hissing noise a few times. I now have a piece of wood putting pressure on the pipe so that its not a constant stream of water. I know that we are probably going to have to get a plumber but I'm wondering if there is any way to stop the water coming up the pipe to the toilet
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Oct 25, 2010 18:30
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D_13 posted:I have an incredibly annoying problem with my toilet. It doesn't have a water shutoff valve on the pipe that brings the water to the tank. What has happened is there is a leak where this pipe joins the tank. Everything inside the toilet is grand but this leak is killing me with the constant dripping. I tried to fix it by caulking and pushing the pipe in but I suspect there is some sort of air pressure thing going on with the ballcock, water intake valve thingie that I am not understanding as I heard a hissing noise a few times. I now have a piece of wood putting pressure on the pipe so that its not a constant stream of water. I know that we are probably going to have to get a plumber but I'm wondering if there is any way to stop the water coming up the pipe to the toilet There should be a shutoff valve SOMEWHERE on your cold feed to your toilet. If you can't find it, a professional plumber can. Are you in a house/apartment?
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Oct 26, 2010 01:50
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D_13 posted:I have an incredibly annoying problem with my toilet. It doesn't have a water shutoff valve on the pipe that brings the water to the tank. What has happened is there is a leak where this pipe joins the tank. Everything inside the toilet is grand but this leak is killing me with the constant dripping. I tried to fix it by caulking and pushing the pipe in but I suspect there is some sort of air pressure thing going on with the ballcock, water intake valve thingie that I am not understanding as I heard a hissing noise a few times. I now have a piece of wood putting pressure on the pipe so that its not a constant stream of water. I know that we are probably going to have to get a plumber but I'm wondering if there is any way to stop the water coming up the pipe to the toilet There is a proper way of fixing but a picture would help me decipher what your hard supply is made out of.
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Oct 26, 2010 03:42
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So the other day I took a dump. Turns out this would be a very expensive dump because before I knew it brown water was coming up through the tub and the sinks, and my washing machine had drained right onto the floor. I tried and failed to fix it, and finally called an actual plumber to come and check poo poo out. He got a snake that was enormous and with wicked blades on the front and went through the clean-out. Turns out that the two enormous oak trees in my front yard had found the pipes, which I believe to be clay, and the roots had gotten it. I was quoted that it would cost at least 5 grand to fix, more if it was on the edge of the property line because another plumber with a different license would have to be called in. I've hooked into a main sewer line before when me and my dad added a second bathroom to his house, and it wasn't terribly complicated. What are the chances that I could bypass the plumber, and replace the pipes myself without having to pay out the rear end for his backhoe and his slow work?
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Oct 26, 2010 05:42
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You could do it yourself, for a huge fraction of the cost.It will just be alot of digging.
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Oct 26, 2010 22:19
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McFool posted:So the other day I took a dump. Turns out this would be a very expensive dump because before I knew it brown water was coming up through the tub and the sinks, and my washing machine had drained right onto the floor. Just confirm with the local health district (place that handles plumbing in my county) to find out if a homeowner is even allowed to work on that.
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Oct 26, 2010 23:13
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I just had my new shower line with the tie into the 3" main as well as the 1.5" vent off the shower and I passed! Thanks again for the help. Time to fill it with sand tonight and concrete over top, any tips for mixing and pouring out the concrete? I was planning for a smooth consistency so the concrete fills a lot of the gaps under the floor where I broke it. Most of the area where I sledged the concrete would break a few inches underneath the existing floor creating a ledge effect for most of my trench. I would like to ensure the concrete fills in nicely of course.
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Oct 26, 2010 23:45
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Ahz posted:I just had my new shower line with the tie into the 3" main as well as the 1.5" vent off the shower and I passed! I don't know much about concrete. The only time I dealt with concrete was when I being the 2nd year apprentice had to fix the floor I had to jack hammer up. Because a journayman read the prints wrong. Though even if you make it really soupy I don't think it will perfect adhere to the previous slab. If anyone knows more, feel free to give advice.
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Oct 27, 2010 00:14
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Just an update on my plumbing fiasco with the drains. The homeowners called a professional plumber in. He tried snaking the clean out, and hit a spot about 80 ft in. He tried running a machine snake on it, no dice there. He took a camera in and found huge root clots that cover about 2/3rds of the pipe. The water drains now, but it'll clog again, and I doubt the homeowner is going to fix it anytime soon. They can pay for a plumber to keep coming in to fix it.
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Oct 27, 2010 04:35
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Had the water heater replaced in the house I'm renting, now the hot water pressure is lower then the cold. There is no shutoff valve for the water heater, so I assume it was done by shutting off water to the entire house (I was away when it was replaced) Anything I can do about this?
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Oct 29, 2010 13:12
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Landerig posted:Had the water heater replaced in the house I'm renting, now the hot water pressure is lower then the cold. There is no shutoff valve for the water heater, so I assume it was done by shutting off water to the entire house (I was away when it was replaced) Take a picture of the stack of pipes sticking out the top of the water heater. Something doesnt sound right. I swear my county has a thing requiring water shutoff on the cold water inlet.
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Oct 29, 2010 19:15
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dietcokefiend posted:Take a picture of the stack of pipes sticking out the top of the water heater. Something doesnt sound right. I swear my county has a thing requiring water shutoff on the cold water inlet. Okay, here's a pic:
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Oct 30, 2010 01:59
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dietcokefiend posted:Take a picture of the stack of pipes sticking out the top of the water heater. Something doesnt sound right. I swear my county has a thing requiring water shutoff on the cold water inlet. The plumber in this thread can confirm/deny, but I'm pretty sure there (supposed to be) is a shutoff before every fixture (sink, toilet, tub, etc), one on each of the cold and hot sides of the in flow and the main shutoff directly after the meter, but the cold shutoff isn't actually near the water heater itself, it's usually somewhere near where the inlet of the house is, after where it splits off. So he may have a shutoff for the hot side, but it may not necessarily be near the heater itself.
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Oct 30, 2010 04:38
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Landerig posted:Okay, here's a pic:  it looks like they replaced the supply lines and didn't bother putting on a supply valve while they had it all apart. Also, your low pressure might be from that sharp 180 bend in the flex pipe.
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Oct 30, 2010 06:07
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TheGreenBandit posted:
Actually, I found the cause of the low pressure. It was a clogged filter on my showerhead. Weird because I put that filter in less then a month ago. I guess sediment from the old water heater clogged it all up. Oh and that setup was like that with the old heater. Those upper pipes can move up and down. I can't get to where they run to in the attic but my guess is theres flex lines up there as well. Funny thing is my landlord specifically requested that a shutoff valve be put in.
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Oct 30, 2010 13:58
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Landerig posted:Actually, I found the cause of the low pressure. It was a clogged filter on my showerhead. Weird because I put that filter in less then a month ago. I guess sediment from the old water heater clogged it all up. Ya the 90 bend of the pipe really won't hurt the velocity of the water to horrible that you'd notice. And yes most codes state that it should have a shut off valve. But most likely a plumber didn't install that. Some handy man probably did.
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Oct 31, 2010 00:01
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Landerig posted:Actually, I found the cause of the low pressure. It was a clogged filter on my showerhead. Weird because I put that filter in less then a month ago. I guess sediment from the old water heater clogged it all up. Not too surprising. After most major plumbing work that I have performed, my kitchen sink faucet always gets crap built up on its little filter screen after water is turned back on. Probably just related to that.
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Oct 31, 2010 01:08
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I am considering the purchase of a home with a cesspool. What do I need to know about this system before making any decisions about buying this house? I have read some things online that say they may be bad. Any opinions/knowledge about cesspools?
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Nov 20, 2010 02:07
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porkfriedrice posted:I am considering the purchase of a home with a cesspool. What do I need to know about this system before making any decisions about buying this house? I have read some things online that say they may be bad. Any opinions/knowledge about cesspools? After reading up on what my code book says about cesspools I can't really recommend anything of value to help you check if the cesspool is working correctly.
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Nov 20, 2010 02:29
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porkfriedrice posted:I am considering the purchase of a home with a cesspool. What do I need to know about this system before making any decisions about buying this house? I have read some things online that say they may be bad. Any opinions/knowledge about cesspools?
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Nov 20, 2010 03:17
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grover posted:Cesspools are just gray water; they're not very common anymore. I'm not sure if they're still legal; my grandparents house was the only one I've ever seen. Despite being just soapy water, it still always stank. From what I've read, you're right, they aren't legal anymore. I think in this case the house dates from the 1940s and the cesspool was grandfathered in. It's more than gray water though, right? This is the only sewage system there, so the poop has to go somewhere. Anybody here own a house with a cesspool and have any tips for maintenance, what not or what to put down the drain?
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Nov 20, 2010 04:03
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