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They make cordless hammer drills. If you only need a few holes then just use your regular drill, it's not as fast but it works.
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Oct 13, 2010 19:40
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Ahz posted:The cordless won't have the power. It will if you buy a cordless percussion drill like the one I have. e:f,b
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Oct 14, 2010 08:53
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thelightguy posted:It will if you buy a cordless percussion drill like the one I have. quote:or would a regular 18v cordless drill with a masonry bit suffice? A regular would just choke out, wheeze and maybe get an inch through after forcing it and potentially wrecking the motor.
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Oct 14, 2010 19:14
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I just tiled my kitchen floor. I started grouting with the Spectralock Epoxy grout but ran out after 20sqft. Only have 280ft to go, and realized I don't want to use this stuff, and instead use regular sanded grout. Would that be an issue assuming I can match the color and of course seal the sanded grout? If it is an issue, is there a simple way to remove the epoxy grout keeping in mind that it is only 24 hours old?
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Oct 15, 2010 01:49
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SkunkDuster posted:That is correct. There is a cable clamp at the top, and knockouts behind that clamp, but those are being used by the existing wires that go to the light. I need a third hole in that box and that knockout plug seems to be the only option. Looks like the next step is to get a chisel or a punch and a bigger hammer I'd hold off one second before you go crazy... First off, how thick is that wall? You might not have any room behind that box anyway. That's easy to check if you have any gaps between the tile and box. Get anything long, thin and straight and stick it in that gap. Find the depth of the outer surface to the wall at the back of that cavity, then compare that to the depth inside the box. If there's no room, then you probably will have to remove the old box and put in a 2 gang box instead. I got a few ideas how to get that 1/2" knockout out too from inside the box. Try the depth test first though. As for fishing that new cable to the hole, you'd probably be best off using a fiberglass fishing rod down from the attic.
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Oct 15, 2010 02:59
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Black Jasper posted:For drilling 3/16" holes in concrete/brick, do I need to use a hammer drill or would a regular 18v cordless drill with a masonry bit suffice? I've done it into 60 year old concrete with a Ryobi 18v cordless drill, so it will work... BUT it will kill the motor. I abused the ever living hell out of that drill and worked until the battery packs failed... well, mostly anyway. Couldn't drill/screw into anything denser than MDF or OSB after that and the motor smelled fried. Then I spent the money on a decent Dewalt corded drill and haven't regretted it for a second.
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Oct 15, 2010 03:31
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I'm putting together a scarecrow costume for Halloween and would like some straw ends poking out from shirt cuffs and around the neck and suchlike. I'm taking it to a party at someone's house, though, and really don't want to be shedding straw the whole evening... not to mention I don't want my sleeves packed with straw. Any clever ideas for how I can get the effect without actually being a walking hay bale?
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Oct 15, 2010 18:56
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Make cuffs and a neck thing out of fabric - sew raffia into the cuffs. Basically, make little hula skirts for your cuffs and neck.
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Oct 15, 2010 19:05
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handbags at dawn posted:Make cuffs and a neck thing out of fabric - sew raffia into the cuffs. Basically, make little hula skirts for your cuffs and neck.
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Oct 15, 2010 22:02
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Thanks!
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Oct 16, 2010 16:33
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I am renovating my basement into a man cave... In the ceiling the joists are 2x8's leaving me 7 1/4in of space. I want to soundproof it with insulation but I have 2 issues/questions to overcome/answer. What type of insulation do I need? I am thinking about 6.5in thick fiberglass with a paper face towards the basement. This won't fill the cavity entirely though, is that an issue? The house is about 65 years old and the joists aren't evenly spaced out, leaving several that are very close and some that are about the same a stud wall 16 on center. To insulate these cavities will i need to cut the insulation to fit? If so should I use unfaced rolls or batts?
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Oct 19, 2010 15:26
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What kind of fuse is this, and where can I find a replacement? It's for an antique percolator.   It doesn't even specify what amperage of fuse to use, but I guess a 400 Watt appliance would normally take about a 5A fuse?
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Oct 20, 2010 10:12
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watts / volts = amps, so 400W / 120V in the US = 3.3A Could we get some better lit pictures of the fuse alongside a ruler, and inside the fuse holder compartment too?
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Oct 20, 2010 19:45
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The stretchy portions of a white, lacy bra are now tinged pink due to my carelessness in sorting laundry. Fortunately, the bra did not make it into the dryer. I'm considering purchasing RIT Color Remover in hopes of returning the spandex to white. Google also brought up suggestions to use vinegar, ammonia, stain removers (OxyClean, et al.), or old-fashioned bluing. Bleach is not an option. Anyone else have any luck with this problem?
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Oct 20, 2010 20:09
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I've had good luck with vinegar in the past. Definitely stay away from bleach as it will yellow the spandex.
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Oct 20, 2010 22:27
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handbags at dawn posted:I've had good luck with vinegar in the past. Definitely stay away from bleach as it will yellow the spandex. Its not just yellowing. Bleach completely ruins elastic. One of those bachelor mistakes that forced me to throw away a whole of underwear that lost its waist-band stretchiness.
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Oct 20, 2010 23:38
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kid sinister posted:watts / volts = amps, so 400W / 120V in the US = 3.3A Sorry about that. I'll use the real camera this time. Size, about 3 cm:  Inside:  with the protective cover on:  fuse in:  and clamped down:  Here's what she looks like: it actually makes really good coffee! 
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Oct 20, 2010 23:45
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quadpus posted:Sorry about that. I'll use the real camera this time. I know they're called "strip fuses" but I can't figure out where to buy them new. If you're not in love with that cord, put an inline fuse in that, and put a piece of metal in that fuse holder.
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Oct 21, 2010 05:11
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I know they're called "strip fuses" but I can't figure out where to buy them new. If you're not in love with that cord, put an inline fuse in that, and put a piece of metal in that fuse holder. Yeah, I figured that would be my plan B, but I've never seen an inline fuse holder meant for household appliances.
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Oct 21, 2010 06:14
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Is that fuse just two brass squares with a bar of solder across them?
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Oct 21, 2010 17:21
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I've been trying to build some of the homemade TV antenna's mainly using the advice off of http://www.tvantennaplans.com as well as others, as the template. My success has been hit or miss. While I understand that the weather conditions play a part, as well as placement of the antenna, interference, etc., my success has been sporadic. While I see a lot of designs out there for antennas that all seem to follow similar specs, but they all seem to have a wee bit of difference and I'm wondering how far I can alter this template design for signal? Since this antenna will be completely indoors, I was thinking pegboard as a mounting surface. This would allow me to quickly put together an array of probably 4 of these 8-V styled antenna's on one thing and hang it on a wall. The problem, though, is that while pegboard has about 1" spacing, the measurements to so many of these designs deal in fractions of an inch in spacing between Vs. So, some questions: How much tolerance do I have with the numbers in trying to get good antenna reception? Would making the V's longer require keeping them at the same angle, or the same 3" spacing? Would making them distance between each level of Vs shorter or longer than the recommended mean I have to change my V length, etc?
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Oct 21, 2010 18:09
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JediTalentAgent posted:TV antenna's
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Oct 21, 2010 22:28
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Right now, I have a small powered TV antenna that gets me 3 separate UHF towers in around a 30-mile radius. With the first or second of these DIYs I built (in addition to the amplified antenna) there was a period of several hours one night were I was getting stations from 60-90 miles away, too. Since then, I've not been able to recapture the vast number of signals I got that night with any consistency or quantity. (I was up to about 10/25 broadcast towers/DTV channels at the most, now I only seem to top out closer to my original 3-4 towers.) Now having seen that I am able to get channels from much further away than I thought, I'm still trying to get them. I have had zero luck picking up a 30-mile away Hi-VHF station, but I read somewhere that if I increase the length of my Vs, I might be able to catch it. I guess, in short, I'm trying to figure out how the measurements of each individual components of the homemade antenna affect the overall performance of the antenna. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 22:43 on Oct 21, 2010 |
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Oct 21, 2010 22:41
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I'm having some trouble with my top loader washing machine. It fills up with water fine, but when it makes it to the point where it is supposed to spin and agitate the clothes, it just hums and it smells like the motor is burning. Luckily my wife noticed that it wasn't working and turned it off before the motor burned out. I set it to spin and the water drained out and the drum spun around just fine, so I assume that the motor and pump are ok. Any ideas on what might be the problem here?
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Oct 22, 2010 02:32
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The-RIK posted:I'm having some trouble with my top loader washing machine. It fills up with water fine, but when it makes it to the point where it is supposed to spin and agitate the clothes, it just hums and it smells like the motor is burning. Luckily my wife noticed that it wasn't working and turned it off before the motor burned out. I set it to spin and the water drained out and the drum spun around just fine, so I assume that the motor and pump are ok. Start capacitor failed. It is just humming because single-phase motors can't self-start.
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Oct 22, 2010 02:33
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Agitator dog failure is another common problem which can cause those symptoms. I had to replace these in my washing machine.
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Oct 22, 2010 02:42
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kid sinister posted:Is that fuse just two brass squares with a bar of solder across them? It sure looks like it. Maybe I should just solder it back together. I don't think it even blew, I probably just cracked it by clamping it down too hard. I've been reading online about this crazy UK thing called "fuse wire" which is just what it sounds like, bare strip of wire that you can use as a fuse in anything. A 5A piece of fuse wire would probably work just fine in that clamp. quadpus fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 22, 2010 |
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Oct 22, 2010 03:04
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Start capacitor failed. It is just humming because single-phase motors can't self-start. Out of curiosity, wouldn't a bad capacitor also not allow the motor to start up when the washer got to the spin cycle? The motor (and the rest of the washer) appears to be able to run just fine when I put the washer on the spin setting. grover posted:Agitator dog failure is another common problem which can cause those symptoms. I had to replace these in my washing machine. I checked the agitator dogs and they seem to be intact. It was a little dirty in there so I cleaned it out, but it didn't solve the problem. I did find out that a lot of mildew likes to build up in the agitator though!
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Oct 22, 2010 04:06
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Psychic Fetus posted:I am renovating my basement into a man cave... I am by no means an expert on this, but I am basically doing the exact same thing (basement to mancave/theater) and I have been doing a decent amount of researching around the net. What I have found is that there are several companies that sell a few types of insulation some of which are marketed for sound proofing. These companies all make claims about the effectiveness of there product (fiberglass, mineral wool, recycled denim, extruded polystyrene) but everything I have read that was not produced by one of these companies says there is no practical difference and to use the most cost effective one you can get which is almost always regular fiberglass. From what I have read, there is no problem with the cavity being not completely full and there are huge diminishing returns when you get past about 4 inches anyway (I am planning on using 6.5 inch also). Yes you should probly cut the it to fit, its not difficult at all and some companies (Johns Manville I think) sell fiberglass with perforated facing to be cut to fill irregular joist/stud spacing. I think faced is probly the best idea just for ease of installation, I was planning on using paper faced and stapling the edges so I don't need to have any supports to hold it in the cavity. Like I said I am no expert on this though so if anyone has better ideas or if I am in error please says so.
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Oct 22, 2010 15:10
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Is anyone here familiar with cordless tool repair? Specifically, is it possible to repair the variable speed trigger from my Bosch 23618 impact driver? It no longer works with the variable speeds, it just goes from nothing to full on. I did find a site where I can just order a new switch, but if it's a simple repair, I'd rather try that first.
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Oct 22, 2010 17:11
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We just bought a house. The home inspection revealed a leak with water dripping behind the kitchen's drywall. Based on thermal imaging, part of the drywall and the studs have soaked up the water. The seller fixed the leak, removed pieces of the drywall, but then unfortunately closed it up again quickly. Is there a point in me making a small hole and blowing warm air in to help ventilate the area and dry out any remaining moisture or will that do more harm than good ?
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Oct 22, 2010 20:46
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Cross_ posted:We just bought a house. The home inspection revealed a leak with water dripping behind the kitchen's drywall. Based on thermal imaging, part of the drywall and the studs have soaked up the water.
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Oct 22, 2010 21:03
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grover posted:Walls are supposed to be designed to be permeable and ventilate moisture that naturally accumulates in walls. It's why insulation is only faced on one side and why housewrap has lots of holes in it. If your house was properly built, it shouldn't be a problem.
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Oct 22, 2010 21:20
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Some more details. Here are the images from the inspection : Here's the section they removed and replaced: 
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Oct 22, 2010 22:19
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oh, interior wall? Nevermind what I said, you'll want to dry it out. That much moisture is going to take forever to permeate drywall. Can you force air into the void through the hole in the plumbing fixture? A shopvac in reverse should do fine.
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Oct 22, 2010 22:46
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Will do. Thanks a lot grover & slugworth !
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Oct 22, 2010 23:59
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Mthrboard posted:Is anyone here familiar with cordless tool repair? Specifically, is it possible to repair the variable speed trigger from my Bosch 23618 impact driver? It no longer works with the variable speeds, it just goes from nothing to full on. I did find a site where I can just order a new switch, but if it's a simple repair, I'd rather try that first. That might be something as simple as a stuck switch inside. Take the battery out and open it up, see if anything is gumming up the works. You might need some security bits for the specialty screws, but you can get those at most hardware stores.
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Oct 23, 2010 04:08
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quadpus posted:It sure looks like it. Maybe I should just solder it back together. I don't think it even blew, I probably just cracked it by clamping it down too hard. Fuse wire was never sold in America due to safety concerns. And I wouldn't overfuse your precious antique, start at 3A and go up until it doesn't blow.
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Oct 23, 2010 04:25
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Anyone have any bright ideas for temperature proofing a polyethylene bucket? It semi-frequently stores ~500F temperature pieces of metal from the oven and they carve gnarly gashes through the sides. This is purely in the name of convenience, as the buckets cost little and actually last about 2-3 weeks before I buy a new one and only then because the handles weaken and break. I have lined one with expanded steel mesh and that worked well for an extra month or so but I was wondering if there would be a better option out there. Maybe some kind of silicon coating or even enamel, etc
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Oct 25, 2010 01:39
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Our newly installed fiberglass tub has developed a small chip in the paint. Is this just an easy fix with a self repair kit, or should I call a pro?
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Oct 25, 2010 05:50
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