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MarshallX posted:Don't even want to think of how many hours I spent on this thing. I was skeptical of the knots but the top looks great. Well done. How did you fasten the top down?
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Oct 7, 2010 02:23
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wormil posted:I was skeptical of the knots but the top looks great. Well done. How did you fasten the top down? Rabbet all the way around the apron and these: http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40146&cat=3,41306,41309
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Oct 7, 2010 03:12
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I made wooden buttons that work the same way for my pine shaker tables but when the top warped, the button snapped. On my mahogany table I switched to the figure 8 looking things and those worked great.
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Oct 7, 2010 07:57
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straw_ewe posted:In my experience, yes, you have to remove it and put down a padding (and vapor barrier if on a slab) designed to be used under hardwood floors. Crap, alright then, additional question. This is a second floor room in an old house. The floor undernieth the carpet pad is just crappy old wood planks that you can see down to the garage through. Do I need to install some kind of flat flooring primer (or a plastic sheet/foam) first or can I just clean and sand the planks down nice and lay in the laminate? Thanks for the help Mouse Has Knife fucked around with this message at 11:10 on Oct 7, 2010 |
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Oct 7, 2010 10:52
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Mouse Has Knife posted:Crap, alright then, additional question. This is a second floor room in an old house. The floor undernieth the carpet pad is just crappy old wood planks that you can see down to the garage through. Do I need to install some kind of flat flooring primer (or a plastic sheet/foam) first or can I just clean and sand the planks down nice and lay in the laminate? I'm assuming the garage is unconditioned space, so first I'd probably add some R-30 insulation to the garage ceiling underneath that floor to help minimize dust or fumes from creeping upstairs. Since you're not on a slab, both floor leveler and the pad are optional, really. My experience is that floor leveler on a wood subfloor tends to dry and crack after a while as the subfloor expands/contracts. Use Tyvek or roofer's felt to fill in low spots if you really need to, otherwise just sand a bit and put down the floor. Take the money you would have spent on leveler/padding and invest in the nicest knee pads you can find. You'll thank me later.
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Oct 7, 2010 13:20
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I wouldn't even bother sanding. Just put down 30# roofing felt, padding for laminate floors and then the laminate flooring. With 30# roofing felt, you might not even need the padding.
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Oct 7, 2010 23:54
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Eh, while we're on the topic of floors...My house is like 100 years old. It's not on a slab, so the floors are suspended above the ground. They are also incredibly unlevel and quite "bouncy". Is there anything to be done in the way of somehow leveling everything up and getting rid of the bouncy bouncy? It already has a few pierings underneath but wherever we put those it also made more rises. The whole house was picked up and moved a 1/2 mile down the road a few years back, which is when we put in the pierings. I'm talking about visible drops and rises in various spots, shimming stoves and other appliances because the built in leveling adjusters come with nowhere NEAR enough leeway to account for my old as gently caress house.
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Oct 8, 2010 18:33
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 Woods of the world indexed as "library" of "books"
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Oct 8, 2010 19:10
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If I bought a jointer, could it be used as a thickness planer too?
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Oct 10, 2010 06:11
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ChaoticSeven posted:Eh, while we're on the topic of floors...My house is like 100 years old. It's not on a slab, so the floors are suspended above the ground. They are also incredibly unlevel and quite "bouncy". Is there anything to be done in the way of somehow leveling everything up and getting rid of the bouncy bouncy? It already has a few pierings underneath but wherever we put those it also made more rises. The whole house was picked up and moved a 1/2 mile down the road a few years back, which is when we put in the pierings. We have bouncy floors too, but our house is a 30-year old modular. We still have a lot of the house to go, but what we've had to do so far was redo joists and a few seals. Apparently the joists were of a thinner material due to it being a modular, and on top of that, some of the boards had been weakened by beetles. Your issue may come from the house being moved and losing some stability that way, or just because it's old and needs some maintenance. When's the last time the floors were done?
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Oct 10, 2010 06:51
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dwoloz posted:If I bought a jointer, could it be used as a thickness planer too? Technically, no.
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Oct 10, 2010 07:09
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Rockler is having a sale on router bits. Not quite as large of a sale as the Amazon one that was a few months back, but still worth mentioning. Plus, free shipping on all orders. http://www.rockler.com/c/closeout-router-bits-while-supplies-last.cfm?utm_source=NL&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=V0799
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Oct 10, 2010 14:36
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MarshallX posted:Gorgeous. My wife walked by when I was looking at this and asked me to build us a coffee table like that. 
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Oct 10, 2010 19:48
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VitaminZinc posted:We have bouncy floors too, but our house is a 30-year old modular. We still have a lot of the house to go, but what we've had to do so far was redo joists and a few seals. Apparently the joists were of a thinner material due to it being a modular, and on top of that, some of the boards had been weakened by beetles. About 100 years ago. The floors are rough wood planks, not smooth or level at all. It's all covered by carpet and linoleum though.
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Oct 10, 2010 22:21
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wormil posted:Technically, no. Ive seen Craftsman and Ridgid advertise theirs as both planers and jointers, what's the deal with that? I can get the Ridgid 6 1/8 for $250 locally, havent decided yet if I want to http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/JP0610-Jointer/
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Oct 11, 2010 03:52
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dwoloz posted:Ive seen Craftsman and Ridgid advertise theirs as both planers and jointers, what's the deal with that? The difference is that a thickness planer makes the sides parallel, a jointer will not do that. Considering that most boards are thickness planed before you buy them, you can probably get by with a jointer.
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Oct 11, 2010 05:12
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Had a big ol' crate waiting for me when I got home tonight - my Grizzly bandsaw is here a week early. I could have had it Friday, but I had some stuff scheduled at work that I couldn't miss, so I rescheduled it for today. Got it in the basement and uncrated without incident. I moved the whole crate into the basement rather than uncrating it first to protect the saw. That's where I stopped - still need to mount the table and run a 220 drop for it. Hopefully I'll have it running by Wednesday. Edit: Day two. Of course I'm slammed at work so when I get home I'm already beat. To top it off, I had to reseed the lawn, so all I got done was mounting the table. Grizzly shipped it with a blade installed, so when I pulled it off I came to the realization that the saw wasn't in the greatest location. The problem is you really need to be able to open the doors on the machine more than 90 degrees (ideally 180 it looks like) to easily remove the saw, but the location where the saw is really only permits them to open 90 degrees. I could get the blade out, but it wasn't as easy as it should be. So I think I'm going to either buy or build a mobile base for it. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Oct 13, 2010 |
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Oct 12, 2010 01:39
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It's been a while! I bought a house with a 2 car garage and now I don't have to build poo poo in my duplex living room! Finally finished stripping the poly and stain off of my bed, then sprayed it with dye and hit it with 2 coats of varnish. It isn't perfect, but it's finished, and after a year of working on the damned thing, I'm fine with it.  Click here for the full 968x1296 image.  Click here for the full 968x1296 image. Not sure why my iphone photos look like rear end. The biggest problem with the house aside from not having a garage door was the living room. Apparently the previous owners didn't watch television. This is before and after. About 3 weeks from start to finish, still have to add the base shoe and re-float a few spots and touch up the taupe paint. Not sure why they remodeled the house and left a tiled-in fireplace with no ventilation or gas tap.  Before. AfterWe left the bump in the wall, and the bottom cabinet exactly covers the tiling that was around the mantle. Oh hey bonus shot of my executive desk that I got from craigslist in trade for two cases of Corona. I've since added a slotted top so I can clamp to it.  Currently working on a mid-century desk. And a dresser to match the bed. Big thanks to you guys for the tips on the dye job and the bandsaw tune-up tips. I'm still building without a jointer, planer, large bandsaw, tracksaw, or table saw.
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Oct 17, 2010 16:34
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Anyone know a good stripper for paint/stain used about 50-60 yrs ago? I picked up an old sewing table where the sewing machine would flip up out of it at a garage sale. Other than a broken hinge pocket the wood is in good shape but the stain is looking bad. I'd like to strip it all off, build it into a small desk (sewing machien stuff was all gone). I can sand the bigger flat areas but figure chemical will work better on the detail parts. I used some stuff on painted wood before but not really old stained wood so anything that might work well is much appreaciated.
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Oct 17, 2010 21:52
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Anyone have any suggestions for how to cut a 45 degree bevel on the edge of a 1/4" sheet of wood without the use of any power tools?
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Oct 19, 2010 03:40
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nobody- posted:Anyone have any suggestions for how to cut a 45 degree bevel on the edge of a 1/4" sheet of wood without the use of any power tools? Have you got a block plane? http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/hand/block-plane-basics/
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Oct 19, 2010 06:28
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icky posted:I just finished this earring tree for my wife. How big is the base? Whatd dia. is the shaft?
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Oct 19, 2010 20:24
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AnomalousBoners posted:How big is the base? Whatd dia. is the shaft? Such apt questions for your user name.
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Oct 20, 2010 03:22
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Where I left off:Carta posted:It has been nearly finished for a while now, but with a recent move I didn't have much time to update with pictures. As it looks now:     I planned on doing just one coat of BLO then poly, but the more BLO I added the more the grain started to 'sparkle' so to speak 3 Coats of BLO, then 2 coats of satin Poly on everything, then a third coat of Poly on the top except I used gloss. I'm waiting on use of a tablesaw to cut the backing which is 1/4" oak plywood. There are a few small flaws, but this is the first project I have taken a lot of time with and I think compared to some of my last things it really shows. edit: Once it's brighter outside I'm going to bring it out and retake the pictures, they are rather grainy looking now that I've looked closely.
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Oct 20, 2010 14:20
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Carta posted:3 Coats of BLO, then 2 coats of satin Poly on everything, then a third coat of Poly on the top except I used gloss. Looks good. It's called Chatoyancy. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chatoyancy http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Chatoyance.html
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Oct 20, 2010 14:25
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How hard would something like this be and what might I need to make it? http://www.pedlars.co.uk/page_3268.html It seems incredibly expensive for something I would have to assemble myself anyway, but I don't know much about the cost of "High Pressure Laminate." What type of wood would I need to use for thin sheets like that?
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Oct 21, 2010 18:06
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Terrorist Kerchief posted:How hard would something like this be and what might I need to make it? We did a project like this in architecture school. You get a 3d model of the solid and insert planes into it at a given spacing. Then you delete everything that's outside the solid, then pull out the planes and you have your pattern to cut. I don't see any other way to do this without some type of 3d modeling software and a decent model to start from. You could use anything for the wood, but it looks like that might be masonite. I take that back, looks like it's 1/2", go with any ply or MDF. I kind of love that. Our projects were baseball sized and on the laser cutter. That would be sweet with a jigsaw, you could make anything. Like a rocket/bookshelf. iwannabebobdylan fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Oct 21, 2010 |
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Oct 21, 2010 18:35
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iwannabebobdylan posted:We did a project like this in architecture school. You get a 3d model of the solid and insert planes into it at a given spacing. Then you delete everything that's outside the solid, then pull out the planes and you have your pattern to cut. I don't see any other way to do this without some type of 3d modeling software and a decent model to start from. Thanks, I think I'll start with something like this:  How would I connect the pieces, L-brackets and glue?
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Oct 21, 2010 19:36
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I was just thinking you could mock it up with thick cardboard and then use that as a pattern once you get everything right.
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Oct 21, 2010 19:41
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Usually parts like that are connected by having opposite notches, like if you put your hands together with your friend to make a handgina like you used to do when you were in 2nd grade (shut up, you know you did it.)
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Oct 21, 2010 19:45
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I'm using a laminate counter top to make a desk. I'm covering a 9' 1/2 span room, the desk is connected to the wall (e.g. supported) on 3 sides except the front. The 'counter top' is 30" deep. I don't want legs if I can help it so I would like to support it through any other mean possible. Anyone did something similar? How would you do it? Edit: I'm thinking of laminating the thinest plywood possible (since it don't come in 10'+ length) to make it long enough and using that as support. I could add angled pieces of plywood that connects to the wall, perhaps? Something sturdy would be nice.
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Oct 21, 2010 20:12
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a flat steel bar understructure bolted to the wall with the top just placed onto it springs to mind.
anaemic fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Oct 21, 2010 |
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Oct 21, 2010 20:29
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I don't know what thickness of bar I would need for it to be sturdy enough throughout the 9 feet ish span but it might be too expensive for me. What about gluing a T steel bar in a notch routed underneath the front of the counter top?
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Oct 21, 2010 21:15
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Maybe it's because I was drunk when I saw the commercial, but I want this seeing as I have no saws to speak of. Tell me it's as useless as all the other infomercial crap so I don't buy it. https://www.rockwellbladerunner.com/
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Oct 22, 2010 14:04
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theitguys posted:Maybe it's because I was drunk when I saw the commercial, but I want this seeing as I have no saws to speak of. Tell me it's as useless as all the other infomercial crap so I don't buy it. Don't buy it. Keep an eye on craigslist for a used bandsaw.
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Oct 22, 2010 15:28
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theitguys posted:Maybe it's because I was drunk when I saw the commercial, but I want this seeing as I have no saws to speak of. Tell me it's as useless as all the other infomercial crap so I don't buy it. DANGEROUS BOTH HANDS I could see it being vaguely useful to someone who owns no other tools, but it's basically a tool that is capable of performing tasks that other tools do well, poorly. They show it being used to make miter cuts, but I wouldn't trust my unsteady hands to make a perfect miter cut. They show it ripping a piece of lumber, which would take *forever* and again, without a fence, probably not be the straightest rip ever. Might be a decent enough imitation of a bandsaw, but I'll let a bandsaw goon correct me on that. And then there's the other classic informercial catch - Even assuming it's a good idea, is it quality built? Probably not Slugworth fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Oct 22, 2010 |
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Oct 22, 2010 21:33
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It just looks like a jigsaw mounted upside down in a table. I didn't notice the exact price, but you probably could pick up a used bandsaw on Craigslist for what they want for it.
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Oct 22, 2010 21:48
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Thanks, not buying it. Is a bandsaw the first piece of equipment I should try to pick up? Do you guys have any recommendations on the basic tools one should have to get into woodworking?
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Oct 23, 2010 09:36
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theitguys posted:Thanks, not buying it. Is a bandsaw the first piece of equipment I should try to pick up? Do you guys have any recommendations on the basic tools one should have to get into woodworking? 10" Bandsaw and circular saw were my first two purchases. They covered a lot of ground. Make sure that you buy a badass portable drill when you decide to get one. I have a Panasonic that is an absolute lifesaver. Nothing worse than a dead battery.
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Oct 23, 2010 14:11
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All I have is a table saw, a circular saw, and drills. I am looking on craigslist and I see a Craftsman 2.5 hp radial arm saw for $40. Seems like a good deal but should I be looking for a miter saw or a bandsaw first? I remember us talking about them before; what all can I do with a RAS? There is also a skil router with bits and table for $35. I wanted a nicer router but this might be a good way to get into it. Any ideas?
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Oct 23, 2010 23:21
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