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The Royal Nonesuch
Nov 1, 2005

wolrah posted:

Automatics are time bombs. Both versions of the automatic will lose reverse eventually, on the ZF it means tranny death, on the GM it's apparently repairable, though it requires opening the transmission and removing the valve body, so you're getting to about mid-level wrenching.


Prices seem to be in line with what I see here in Cleveland, not sure how much difference one would expect to your area.

Interesting. Well, maybe that means it's finally time to find someone with a standard trans to :ssh:teach me how to drive stick:ssh:.

Any other E46 325ci owners have thoughts? I'm open to other ideas within the series, so if I'm making a bad choice for the money please let me know, I'm certainly not settled on the idea. Still doing my research etc.

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Trapdoor
Jun 7, 2005
The one and only.
My '04 BMW E60 530D, picked it up a month ago. Had ~65,000 miles on it, feels brand new.


Click here for the full 1920x1440 image.


Completely stock, I'm considering getting it tuned and I might put some M parts on it, sideskirts and front bumper.

What do people think about people putting M parts on non-M cars, is it frowned upon?

Why do people take the model designation off, is that so people won't know you're actually driving a 316?

Kenshin
Jan 10, 2007

Trapdoor posted:

Why do people take the model designation off, is that so people won't know you're actually driving a 316?
I've asked this a few times and always gotten utterly different answers.

Even stranger, when I was in Europe for a few weeks this fall I saw more unbadged BMWs than ever. I'm starting to wonder if people steal them or something, but I can't imagine why anyone would.

Guess it's good I keep my M3 in a garage?

Minimaul
Mar 8, 2003

From what I've read over in Europe and stuff people like to keep it low-key and they de-badge their cars. Where-as in America a lot of the common folk up-badge their cars. Although, it seems lots of people in the USA into modding also de-badge for aesthetic reasons.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
I like the clean debadged look. Also, putting M parts on your non-M is fine as long as you don't call it an M. Even if it's better than an M, it's still not an M.

(Disclaimer: That's not my thoughts, that's the general feeling of everyone that drives an M for the elitist factor)

televiper
Feb 12, 2007
I'd like to take the big honkin' 325is badge off of mine, because it's big and obtrusive and wax gets in it, but it's probably way less faded underneath, and frankly I don't want people thnking " lookit that jerk in his debadged car, probably wants us to think his 318 is a 335."

Didn't mind taking the badges off the mx-5 since there's nothing I could be try trying to fake.

Groan Zone
Nov 21, 2004

chug-a-lug, donna

Trapdoor posted:


What do people think about people putting M parts on non-M cars, is it frowned upon?


It's like: people who know BMWs know it's not an M car, and people who don't know BMWs don't know the difference anyway. So what's the point?

Just don't get fake side grills.

MajesticTrout
Apr 23, 2006
Because I'm an idiot, my E36 328 is sitting in the driveway with all the doors locked and the key in the ignition. I don't have a spare key but the trunk is still open.

Is there a good way to unlock it? I have folding rear seats but there doesn't seem to be a way to unlatch them from the trunk side.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:
My wife wants another BMW. What's the best way to talk her out of it seeing as how referencing our last BMW hasn't worked?

evobatman
Jul 30, 2006

it means nothing, but says everything!
Pillbug
Both my rear wheelarches have rustholes in them, and are non-salvageable :(

Has anyone had any experience with having them changed at a bodyshop?

Trapdoor
Jun 7, 2005
The one and only.

frozenphil posted:

My wife wants another BMW. What's the best way to talk her out of it seeing as how referencing our last BMW hasn't worked?

You're asking for advice on how not to get a BMW, in a BMW thread? :psyduck:

You could probably tell her you couldn't afford it, but that's about it.

Saga
Aug 17, 2009
Yeah, you can rebuild the seals, but it is apparently quite a pain. Unless you're really poor, a completely remanufactured rack that can be swapped in is cheap and easy - and equally that's the way to go if you want a quicker ratio. Problem with the slow ratio is catching the tail if it moves more than you were expecting.

That boot will be the issue - duct tape isn't going to seal well enough.

BrokenKnucklez posted:

Thanks, I will crawl around the car this sunday, when I have a whole day to dedicate to it.

The rack boots looked fine, but is there a way to rebuild the seals, or am I stuck buying a new rack?

I also wanted to mention, the previous owner though to fix a air intake boot by using duct tape.... yeah, this guy didn't have a clue. So I hope that by fixing the boot, I shouldn't need a ICV. The diff looks like old leaks, because there is dirt clinging to the old oil. No major sounds on it when I tooled around the block for a couple of laps. I will just probally use some champions right now.

I do need to drain the tank, granted its been full the entire time it sat, so I imagine that things are *pretty* clean for the most part, probally a new fuel filter for a while. Also is any one elses fuel pumps kinda loud? Or I am just used to the old GM fuel pump whine.

e:

Trapdoor posted:

What do people think about people putting M parts on non-M cars, is it frowned upon?

In the US, it's loving lame. This is pretty much the correct answer. :colbert: It is something that bros who get hold of E46s do, not actual adults.

In Europe, it's actually accepted, basically because BMW do it themselves, plastering M logos on trim options. They will sell you pimp rimz, pimp shifter knob, pimp steering wheel with extra ///M for your automatic 316i.

As for removing model designations in the UK/Europe, reasons include (i) aesthetics - it's a bauhaus thing; (ii) cars tend to be much more expensive as is gas, so yes, you want people who don't know the difference to think that your 316i might be a 330i; (iii) a bit irrelevant these days with the current state of ignition security on premium cars, but it used to be done to discourage theft/joyriding. If you had a high-powered derivative, you didn't necessarily want to shout about it.

Saga fucked around with this message at 11:38 on Oct 22, 2010

stump
Jan 19, 2006

MajesticTrout posted:

Because I'm an idiot, my E36 328 is sitting in the driveway with all the doors locked and the key in the ignition. I don't have a spare key but the trunk is still open.

Is there a good way to unlock it? I have folding rear seats but there doesn't seem to be a way to unlatch them from the trunk side.

Done this :/ Called out the RAC (breakdown people) and he levered the top of the door frame out and popped a thing down to pull the door pin up. Didn't damage the door but he used various tools to lever it gently.

Trapdoor
Jun 7, 2005
The one and only.

Saga posted:

In the US, it's loving lame. This is pretty much the correct answer. :colbert: It is something that bros who get hold of E46s do, not actual adults.

In Europe, it's actually accepted, basically because BMW do it themselves, plastering M logos on trim options. They will sell you pimp rimz, pimp shifter knob, pimp steering wheel with extra ///M for your automatic 316i.

How about on an E60? I would never get any actual M emblem/trims, but the M bumper and side skirts look too badass to pass up.

Saga
Aug 17, 2009

Trapdoor posted:

How about on an E60? I would never get any actual M emblem/trims, but the M bumper and side skirts look too badass to pass up.

Well, I'm not the arbiter of what is and is not OK - despite having an account on somethingawful.com - but I was just thinking of sticking the M logo on non-M cars, which as we all know are different animals. So I imagine it would be equally lame putting an M badge on a non-M 5 series.

The M cars have different bodywork than the non-M cars (unless I'm forgetting obvious examples - don't know about the Z4 Ms), so I imagine there's nothing "wrong" with the non-M body kits, even if they're called M-Sport or M Technik or whatever. I think we're getting into angels on the head of a pin territory with this one though.

evobatman
Jul 30, 2006

it means nothing, but says everything!
Pillbug
The correct way to go is tons of M parts, but no visible M logos or badges. Also, no chrome, and no (fake) carbon fiber.

Only two M logos on my car, and those are on the door bump strips, because there are no alternatives.

e: 316i and 520d badges on the corresponding actual M models are encouraged.

Trapdoor
Jun 7, 2005
The one and only.
Ah yeah, I'm talking about the m-tech body kit, not the actual parts from an E60 M5.

Trapdoor fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Oct 22, 2010

evobatman
Jul 30, 2006

it means nothing, but says everything!
Pillbug

Trapdoor posted:

Ah yeah, I'm talking about the m-tech body kit, not the actual parts from an E60 M5.

Yep, this. An M-kitted E60 with nice wheels looks beautiful, just don't put an M or M5 badge on the trunk/boot/anywhere else

Trapdoor
Jun 7, 2005
The one and only.
How hard is it for someone whose experience stops at "replacing windshield wipers" and "changing tires" to install a body kit, is it better if I leave that job to a professional?

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
Although I mostly agree about the m logos everywhere a guy showed me his recently swapped in newer m-tech steering wheel on his E34 the other day and it was a huge improvement over stock.

Fermunky
May 30, 2003

The monkey is NOT impressed...
As long as there are no fake side vents and no M badge on the trunk, then I think putting M parts are OK. Hell, since I have a sport model 330i, the wheels even have the M badge on them, but it was stock...

stump
Jan 19, 2006

It think it comes back to a basic rule I remember hearing in AI,

Modifying a car to make it go fast = Good
Modifying a car to make it look good = Fine
Modifying a car to make it look fast = Silly

Dyscrasia
Jun 23, 2003
Give Me Hamms Premium Draft or Give Me DEATH!!!!
It is perfectly fine to have an MTech shift knob, but I suppose that is technically a performance upgrade.

Saga
Aug 17, 2009

Fermunky posted:

As long as there are no fake side vents and no M badge on the trunk, then I think putting M parts are OK. Hell, since I have a sport model 330i, the wheels even have the M badge on them, but it was stock...

"ZHP"?

My old US-spec 330ci had style 68s, so I have to take back some of what I said and admit that BMW USA did put teeny ///m logos on the wheels. :blush:

Nowhere else though.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010
I have an M shift knob that I pulled out of a junked M3 at the yard that lasted about 2 weeks before it was bare. Also an Mtech2 steering wheel in my E30.

evobatman
Jul 30, 2006

it means nothing, but says everything!
Pillbug
Unfortunately there is no such thing as an illuminated shift knob without the M logo :(

VibrioCholera
Mar 7, 2003
I run M5 wheels on my M3 as snow tires is that tacky? :(

edit: They're knockoffs but were really cheap.

Fermunky
May 30, 2003

The monkey is NOT impressed...

Saga posted:

"ZHP"?

My old US-spec 330ci had style 68s, so I have to take back some of what I said and admit that BMW USA did put teeny ///m logos on the wheels. :blush:

Nowhere else though.

No, ZHP is the Performance package, I only had the Sport package (ZSP) and came with style 68 as well (at least up to 04/2001, and also had sport steering wheel, sport seats, and sport suspension.

Xenoid
Dec 9, 2006
Been searching bimmer forums to no avail so this is my last attempt to see if someone might have a clue what's wrong with my car before I have it towed to a shop since I don't have a garage to work in nor the luxury of time any longer.

97 BMW 540i 6spd

Replaced the clutch due to a seized pressure plate 2 years ago, along with new internals and slave cylinder.

Now: Leak from what looks like the right-hand side tranny bellhousing. Losing brake fluid at an appreciable rate. Got air into the lines it seemed, but bleeding didn't work for some reason. Just prior, when the car was cold it would almost "hop"/stutter right when I released the clutch all the way. I don't drive it often and when I came back from out of town I was greeted with a fully non operational clutch.

Would anyone here have a clue if this may be something common/easily repairable?

FENCH DIGGITY
Oct 23, 2010

hee-ho, fuccboi
Crossposting a few pics from the post your ride thread. '82 733i with a 5 speed.




The good: drives great. Body's in nice shape, but definitely needs some TLC. Interior is basically the same story - pretty nice, but the leather and wood need some work.

The bad: Brake idiot light comes on intermittently. PO says it leaks a bit, so it could be fluid or possibly the accumulator (I think). Heater core blew up and the PO bypassed it. Also, the idle is loving bonkers. Once the car is warmed up and idling, it idles from ~800rpm all the way to 1600 or so and then goes back down to 800 and repeats the cycle. From what I've seen at http://www.e38.org/e23/ and Bimmerboard, it looks like my ICM or ICV is shot.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

Trapdoor posted:

You're asking for advice on how not to get a BMW, in a BMW thread? :psyduck:

You could probably tell her you couldn't afford it, but that's about it.

Search my post history in this thread.

revmoo
May 25, 2006

#basta
Well, money's tight and I work from home so I'm garaging the E36 for the winter. Can't afford to insure it at the moment. I've been paying about $170 a month, and that's just too much for a car that I drive less than 100 miles a month.

I'm looking at this as a blessing though, it gives me a chance to do some of the work that I've been wanting to get done. The first thing I'm doing is detailing the entire car and scrubbing the undercarriage. Then I'll pump up the tires and park it in the garage. I still have a brand new radiator, surge tank and associated bits to install, so I think I'm going to go ahead and order:

1. Belts
2. Thermostat and gaskets
3. Fan tool
4. BMW coolant (running prestone right now)

I already have the hoses, surge tank and Behr radiator (and sweet brass bleed screw)

Once the cooling system overhaul is complete, I'm going to probably do the diff next (LSD and better gear ratio). After that, depending on funds I'm going to go ahead and do the clutch + 5 series swap.

I figure I'll have 3-4 months to fix it back up and that should give me plenty of time to take care of this stuff. I also want to go ahead and try and source some E46 front seats and a new sunroof cassette. Hopefully by the time spring comes around the car will be in great shape and ready to drive. Keeping the salt off it all winter will be nice as well.

Trapdoor
Jun 7, 2005
The one and only.

frozenphil posted:

Search my post history in this thread.

I recommend getting something newer, like an E60/E90, seems like you just got unlucky and the previous owner drove it like he stole it.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
Thanks for the advice on the steering rack, I will do that a little later as now my fuel pump died. I checked the voltage to the pump and its fine... I want to hug the guy who designed this car, I mean, an access cover under the back seat? So much better than GM-ilk, with the removing the tank and what not.

The air boot really did the trick. Previous owner thought duct tape could fix every thing. I changed the plugs and ran great until the fuel pump keeled over.

Here is the next question for any one who has done this... The trunk lock is broke, previous owner decided to try and drill it out, with the drill bit still in there. I already took the back seat out, no access hole. Any tricks into breaking into the trunk?

CornHolio
May 20, 2001

Toilet Rascal
Has anybody replaced an E36 sedan blower motor?

The Bentley makes it look real easy, but this DIY shows the wipers and cowls and wiper motor coming out too. And says it takes something like four hours where the Bentley makes it look like a half hour job.

I got a used motor for $50 off of ebay, it was supposed to be OEM (Bosch) but it looks like the wheels don't come off (unless there's a trick). Were the OE ones not removeable with replacement BMW ones removeable or something? I'm OK with bending the sheetmetal on my car, I just want to know if there's a trick to it.

(Blower doesn't come on at all, it's not the final stage which I replaced a little over a year ago)

Sterndotstern
Nov 16, 2002

by Y Kant Ozma Post

CornHolio posted:

Has anybody replaced an E36 sedan blower motor?

The Bentley makes it look real easy, but this DIY shows the wipers and cowls and wiper motor coming out too. And says it takes something like four hours where the Bentley makes it look like a half hour job.

Yes. Listen to the DIY -- the Bentley has some wild ideas about cables that just move aside with the flick of a wrist. I tried on a junkyard car just to attempt the Bentley method and came away loving pwned.

Crustashio
Jul 27, 2000

ruh roh

Sterndotstern posted:

Yes. Listen to the DIY -- the Bentley has some wild ideas about cables that just move aside with the flick of a wrist. I tried on a junkyard car just to attempt the Bentley method and came away loving pwned.

I find bentley is generally poo poo for showing what is actually involved with a job. It's pretty good for basic items (brakes, plugs, etc) but anything that isn't regular maintenance they tend to gloss over some pretty big parts.

frozenphil
Mar 13, 2003

YOU CANNOT MAKE A MISTAKE SO BIG THAT 80 GRIT CAN'T FIX IT!
:smug:

CornHolio posted:

Has anybody replaced an E36 sedan blower motor?

Yes. It's a tedious as gently caress job, but not a terribly difficult one. It's one of those jobs where one step will take the majority of your time; specifically as you try to finagle the motor itself in/out of its spot.

MajesticTrout
Apr 23, 2006

MajesticTrout posted:

Because I'm an idiot, my E36 328 is sitting in the driveway with all the doors locked and the key in the ignition. I don't have a spare key but the trunk is still open.

Is there a good way to unlock it? I have folding rear seats but there doesn't seem to be a way to unlatch them from the trunk side.

I got into the car on Friday, but forgot to post anything. I ended up pulling the carpeted liner off of the trunk lid. Once I had that off, I saw the arm that goes from the trunk lock over to an actuator. I moved it by hand all the way one direction and it unlocked everything.

This thing:
Click here for the full 2048x1536 image.


Also, the genius responsible for the trim clips for the trunk lid can go right to hell.

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SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

Saga posted:

Help help!

Hoping someone has run into this before!

Car is a 11/93 production 316i touring RHD. I'm replacing my front driver's side brake caliper, as the seals in the old one went and the piston's damaged.

The new caliper I've been sent is a correctly-handed Girling (like the old one), but slightly different in the details of the casting to my existing ones (slightly different shapes and dimensions although the bracket mounts match up - the new ones say "48" and "BMW" on them - the old ones just say BMW and have a ~3 letter code I can't make out).

The car has been running goodridge hoses with no issues for a couple of years.

On bolting up the new caliper to the flex line, no matter what I do, the caliper can not be installed without putting a half twist in the line. If you straighten the line out, the caliper faces backwards (as if it was a leading, rather than trailing fitment). I've tried twisting the line before fitting, putting the caliper in all sorts of positions and have had about 10-15 goes.

On replacing the original caliper, it ends up correctly oriented with no twist 100% of the time (out of the 3 goes I gave it), despite being a bugger to get the fitting threading on correctly.

Does this mean I've been given an incorrect caliper or a faulty caliper? (I had a quick look on realoem and didn't see a leading caliper installation for the e30 or e36.)

Or is it something that can be fixed if I loosen the brake hose at the hard line fitting, and just try bolting the hard line back up in different positions until everything is correctly oriented? I don't remember having this level of PITA putting the lines on the car, but am hesitant to start loving with old hard line fittings unless it's definitely the way to go.

Pic of the problem installation for reference.


I don't think I saw anyone reply to your post. You need to loosen the brake line at the hard line to soft line connection, using flair nut wrenches to preventing strippage, and straighten the hose. Then tighten and bleed.

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