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My 03 Forester just started slipping the clutch at high power settings so I'm looking at replacements. Anyone have any recommendations for parts suppliers? Every place I checked won't ship to Alaska and lists a billion different clutches for my car.
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Oct 25, 2010 02:44
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Black88GTA posted:After that, I tried pulling the motor out again but it's holding onto the trans really well. I still have no idea what the gently caress is holding it on there, and it's pissing me off. There are two dowels on the bellhousing about halfway up on each side. You'll probably find they're seized on there pretty tight so soak them in some WD-40 or the like and smash them a bit with a hammer and punch. Once you break them loose the bellhousing should just slide right off. Should probably also spray some lube down the inspection hole and onto the torque converter snout as they tend to rust into the flexplate and you don't want that converted coming away from the transmission.
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Oct 25, 2010 06:21
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To seperate a stubborn bell housing I give it a few taps with an air hammer. Air hammers are awesome on ball joints and tie rods and stuff too.N183CS posted:My 03 Forester just started slipping the clutch at high power settings so I'm looking at replacements. Anyone have any recommendations for parts suppliers? Every place I checked won't ship to Alaska and lists a billion different clutches for my car. Exedy makes an oem replacement and a stage 1 which has a different disc and a little extra clamp load. I don't have a problem shipping one up there. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Oct 25, 2010 |
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Oct 25, 2010 06:40
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Hello fellow flannel. I just placed an order for an Outback 3.6r Limited. I can't wait till it gets here.
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Oct 25, 2010 07:57
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Just got word that my car will be in Wednesday. Now I have a decision to make. I was going to drive down to DC this weekend (250mile 4 1/2 hour drive from Pittsburgh.) So, the question is, perfect way to clear away half the break in miles or bad on a new car to take it on a nearly 5 hour trip right off the bat? I could probably squeeze in about 200 miles or so before I left on Friday.
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Oct 25, 2010 21:44
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bull3964 posted:Just got word that my car will be in Wednesday. Sounds like a great way to power through the break in.
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Oct 26, 2010 00:03
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bull3964 posted:Just got word that my car will be in Wednesday. It's fine. I did basically the same thing.
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Oct 26, 2010 01:28
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^^^^ The only thing I think the owner's manual mentions is not using cruise control in the first 1k miles. I don't really understand why, but just an FYI.
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Oct 26, 2010 05:23
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You just aren't supposed to maintain any one speed or RPM level. I think I'll solve that by avoiding the turnpike. If I take 51 to 40 to 68 there will be lots of hills and twisties to vary the speed, load, and RPMs and it really isn't all that much longer.
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Oct 26, 2010 05:25
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If any of you guys in the Portland OR area are on the fence about an access port, I'll be unmarrying mine if I'm successful in dumping my 05 STi on Friday/Saturday. Shoot me a PM if you'd like a test drive of the AP.
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Oct 26, 2010 05:59
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FormulaXFD posted:If any of you guys in the Portland OR area are on the fence about an access port, I'll be unmarrying mine if I'm successful in dumping my 05 STi on Friday/Saturday. Shoot me a PM if you'd like a test drive of the AP. What version?
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Oct 26, 2010 06:23
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This one? http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=4665 bought it a few months ago.
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Oct 26, 2010 06:47
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I got a new clutch in my '99 Impreza Outback Sport, the new one has a hell of a lot less resistance than my old one. As a result, I am lurching around nearly as bad as when I first learned to drive stick. It feels like a brake that needs bleeding, is there a way to make it more firm? I was thinking that possibly adding more fluid could work, but I don't know what kind of fluid it needs, and I don't know if I can even access it or if it is a closed system.
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Oct 26, 2010 07:19
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I noticed the turbo on my 08 LGT sounds louder. Before a couple of days ago, you could only hear a faint whistle when it was at higher speeds, but it seems now it is louder, and making a "whooshing" sound. It's nothing grinding or anything, and I haven't noticed any drop in performance or any warning lights, but is this something that I should get checked out?
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Oct 26, 2010 14:12
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AFewBricksShy posted:I noticed the turbo on my 08 LGT sounds louder. Before a couple of days ago, you could only hear a faint whistle when it was at higher speeds, but it seems now it is louder, and making a "whooshing" sound. It's nothing grinding or anything, and I haven't noticed any drop in performance or any warning lights, but is this something that I should get checked out? It's possible you've developed a boost leak. Or maybe your air box isn't closed all the way? Lots of people go to a lot of trouble to hear the turbo more. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I got a new clutch in my '99 Impreza Outback Sport, the new one has a hell of a lot less resistance than my old one. As a result, I am lurching around nearly as bad as when I first learned to drive stick. It feels like a brake that needs bleeding, is there a way to make it more firm? I was thinking that possibly adding more fluid could work, but I don't know what kind of fluid it needs, and I don't know if I can even access it or if it is a closed system. On my 03 wrx it's a hydraulic clutch. Completely possible that whoever changed out your clutch left air in the system that will need to be bled out.
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Oct 26, 2010 16:46
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Amandyke posted:It's possible you've developed a boost leak. Or maybe your air box isn't closed all the way? Lots of people go to a lot of trouble to hear the turbo more. I'll check the air box, but what would I need to do about a boost leak?
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Oct 26, 2010 17:58
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'll check the air box, but what would I need to do about a boost leak?
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Oct 26, 2010 17:59
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'll check the air box, but what would I need to do about a boost leak? Unless that 08 is out of warranty, take it into the dealer.
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Oct 26, 2010 18:17
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Made an appointment for monday. Thanks for the help.
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Oct 26, 2010 18:33
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ChunksNensja posted:There are two dowels on the bellhousing about halfway up on each side. You'll probably find they're seized on there pretty tight so soak them in some WD-40 or the like and smash them a bit with a hammer and punch. Once you break them loose the bellhousing should just slide right off. Should probably also spray some lube down the inspection hole and onto the torque converter snout as they tend to rust into the flexplate and you don't want that converted coming away from the transmission. I have a 1" chisel that I sharpened to a knife edge that (along with a 4 lb hand sledge) ended up doing the job. These are actually two of my most useful tools. I sprayed some SiliKroil on the seam, and then put the chisel in and hit it with the hammer to get it apart. Anyway, once it was out I began tearing it down. It didn't take long to find my first problem:   What would cause this? How do I fix it? Obviously I need new timing cover plastic, but how do I prevent this from happening to the new piece? The car has a Perrin lightened crank pulley on it - could that be related?
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Oct 27, 2010 01:49
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Hopefully a worn crank pulley. Next cause is a trashed keyway in the crank, the other is crankwalk. I've got some really good pictures of a broken subaru engine coming up pretty soon
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Oct 27, 2010 08:45
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jamal posted:Hopefully a worn crank pulley. Next cause is a trashed keyway in the crank, the other is crankwalk. See, I think it would be weird if you didn't have photos of broken subaru things
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Oct 27, 2010 16:09
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jamal posted:Hopefully a worn crank pulley. Next cause is a trashed keyway in the crank, the other is crankwalk. Well, I went out just now and looked at the crank snout and pulley keyway - everything looked good, nice and sharp. I tried to check for play in the crank in all directions, but couldn't detect any (though I admit I don't really know very well how to check for this). Some people on the SVX forum were saying that the timing belt cover sometimes warps and ends up rubbing the pulley. There were a few people posting that theirs did the same thing and not to worry about it. I'm hoping that's all it is...hopefully it's not crankwalk.
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Oct 28, 2010 01:30
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Amandyke posted:On my 03 wrx it's a hydraulic clutch. Completely possible that whoever changed out your clutch left air in the system that will need to be bled out.
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Oct 28, 2010 01:48
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Just Another XY posted:See, I think it would be weird if you didn't have photos of broken subaru things heh. this time it's the motor in our time attack car. looks like the rods couldn't handle the power and revs we were putting through them (although it did last 5 full events and three dyno sessions). 32psi, 690whp and 8500rpm=  pulling the shortblock apart tonight to see if the crank is still useable because we need it back together and running in less than two weeks. yeah, rod 3 not there anymore, rod 4 not very straight:  crankshaft seems okay- I'm going to have it checked for straightness and cracks. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Oct 28, 2010 |
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Oct 28, 2010 02:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Yeah, it is a hydraulic clutch on this one too. Would there be a fill tube up top like for oil/antifreeze/brake fluid, or would I have to get down in there? How do you bleed a clutch? All of the people I know with car experience have more experience with '80s cars at latest, so I don't think they have ever had to do that. There should be a clutch fluid reservoir in the engine compartment to the left of the brake master cylinder, consult your owners manual for the exact location. As for how to bleed it, it should be just like bleeding brakes. Loosen the nipple, depress clutch, tighten nipple, let clutch out, repeat until air stops coming out. http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/4%20-%20TRANSMISSION.PDF Page CL-24 jamal posted:
Looks just fine to me! Amandyke fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Oct 28, 2010 |
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Oct 28, 2010 07:00
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on a pull type clutch you need to actually take the slave cylinder off and hold it in a c-clamp because the bleed screw isn't at the top. I did have a car where I needed to bench bleed the master cylinder for the clutch to work properly after an SS braided clutch line install.
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Oct 28, 2010 07:04
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Yay, my car is in and I'll be picking it up after work today. This is going to be the longest work day ever.
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Oct 28, 2010 16:52
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bull3964 posted:Yay, my car is in and I'll be picking it up after work today. Try not to put your foot through the floor when you put the clutch in. I drat near punched a hole through Bob Log's floor when I drove his.
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Oct 28, 2010 18:09
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It's true the clutch is light, but that can be a good thing, with all my knee injuries it's still easy to drive. I also had to take my 2011 in to another dealership and they "lubed" my shifter linkage which fixed the problems I was having with it feeling like my gearbox was full of cheerios. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Oct 28, 2010 |
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Oct 28, 2010 18:11
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Hey guys! I've been looking around for a 03-04 Forester and I may have stumbled upon a pretty good local deal. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/2020963962.html The car is apparently in great shape (and it looks it in the pictures) and I may head on over to check it out today. They don't list the mileage on the Craigslist page for a reason: it's at 180,000 miles as of today. Too many miles or should I stop my search here and (after looking over it myself/with my mechanic) grab it? I've heard from several people that so long as a Forester is well-maintained, it'll be good to go for long past 180,000, but nobody I'm close with actually owns one (so hands on experience is non-existent).
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Oct 28, 2010 19:58
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6500 for that???? That's laughable. You live in the bay area, foresters and outbacks are a dime a dozen. Keep looking and be as paitient as you can. I'll search around for some better examples. What are you looking for specifically? A reliable daily driver? Something to tinker on? Models and years you'd consider?
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Oct 28, 2010 20:22
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Bob Log posted:6500 for that???? That's laughable. You live in the bay area, foresters and outbacks are a dime a dozen. Keep looking and be as paitient as you can. I'll search around for some better examples. Kind of a middle ground between a reliable daily driver and something to tinker with; I've never worked with a Subaru before, but I'd like to start, haha. I'd be good with anything between a 1999-2005 with any trim, really. I'm not the biggest fan of the models after that (something about the looks). Sadly because I have a bad left knee, sticks are mostly out; but if the clutch is pretty light like I've been reading, I could probably exercise a little more and take the hit. Thanks for the response; like I said, I'm still trying to gauge the pricing on these guys. Senf fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Oct 28, 2010 |
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Oct 28, 2010 20:29
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I was thinking of selling my '03 Legacy 5-speed (not a GT) soon. The car is mechanically sound, but it has four main issues, three of which I think I should be able to address with some minor work. I am probably more than likely going use it as a trade in, so I figure that cosmetic fixes are more likely to get the most bang for the buck. Hell, if I fix all this, I may even keep the car for longer, who knows. However, I don't know that much about fixing cars. I have only really done minor work for the most part. 1. When I had the timing belt changed, the mechanic said the head gasket was showing a slight leak, and although its not a problem now, it needs to be fixed eventually. I think he said if I plan on having the car longer than a year or two. It sounds more expensive and time consuming than I think I want to spend in time and/or money. 2. Two of the four speakers in the car haven't worked in a while. One of the speakers normally doesn't work, but every once in a while will suddenly work, but seems to be coming back on less and less often. The fourth speaker works without a problem. Is this a common problem with a simple solution? Do you guys think it is more likely a wiring problem, or a failing speaker problem? Replacement speakers seem generally cheap while a wiring problem could take me forever to figure out. I do have a volt meter and I am hoping I can use that to figure out if the speaker plug works, but I could even get the plug out of the speaker earlier and I didn't want to pull too hard and risk breaking it. 3. While parked in a nearly empty parking lot, I come back to my car to find a sizable dent in the rear driver's side door. It looks like an SUV who can't drive backed into it somehow. I can't even imagine how. It does not effect the window operation in any way, but its pretty obvious as soon as you look at the car. I don't know anything about removing dents, but I imagine that making it look mostly ok can't be that hard. Here are some pictures for reference:  Click here for the full 1452x1944 image.  Click here for the full 1944x1452 image. 4. In addition to the chipped paint and rust from that damage, there are some other rust spots I would like to deal with. I took it to a CarMax just to get an idea on its value. The two items that seemed to be of most concern were the dent/rust from above and this rust:  Click here for the full 1944x1452 image. And there are a few other minor places I figured that I might be able to deal with while I am doing that, such as this.  Click here for the full 1944x1452 image. So, what I guess I am asking is, are problems 2 through 4 something I can fix with a couple hundred and a day or two of my time? Am I in over my head? Are the problems not even worth fixing? Edit: Woops, put the same image twice, let me see if I can fix that. Edit 2: Image fixed! Gripen5 fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Oct 28, 2010 |
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Oct 28, 2010 20:58
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A good PDR guy should be able to take care of most of those dents. The rust is a bit more of a problem but it can always be cleaned up too.
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Oct 28, 2010 21:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A good PDR guy should be able to take care of most of those dents. The rust is a bit more of a problem but it can always be cleaned up too. Thanks. I guess I could try and find a local shop and see what they are willing to do it for.
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Oct 28, 2010 22:00
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Coming from my '02, this car is terrifying.
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Oct 29, 2010 03:36
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bull3964 posted:Coming from my '02, this car is terrifying. I came from an 02, (albeit a 300whp modified one) but in what way do you mean? The low end torque and overall power or ...?
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Oct 29, 2010 03:37
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Bob Log posted:I came from an 02, (albeit a 300whp modified one) but in what way do you mean? The low end torque and overall power or ...? Yes, the power is so much beyond what I'm used to. 38 doesn't sound like a lot but it hits much lower and with more of PUSH than peak.
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Oct 29, 2010 03:57
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bull3964 posted:Yes, the power is so much beyond what I'm used to. 38 doesn't sound like a lot but it hits much lower and with more of PUSH than peak. What was done to your '02?!
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Oct 29, 2010 04:43
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