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Pocket Billiards posted:Am I retarded, or is there no way of deleting empty bars in Guitar Pro other than cutting and then not pasting? ctrl-del
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Oct 24, 2010 14:44
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Seventh Arrow posted:I have a Paul Reed Smith guitar and I want to set the intonation properly...chords sound ok near the nut, but start going out of tune further up the neck. With my basses, I just usually adjust the bridge saddles until a fretted note at the 12th fret is the same frequency as a harmonic at the 12th fret. However, this thing doesn't seem to have adjustable bridge saddles...I only seem to be able to move the (entire) bridge higher or lower. Here's some pics, unfortunately they're kind of blurry, but you can also see it at You use these two screws to set the intonation on a wrap around: 
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Oct 24, 2010 19:51
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I'll give that a shot, thanks much.
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Oct 24, 2010 20:13
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Gorilla Salsa posted:ctrl-del motherfuckers
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Oct 25, 2010 01:10
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Nevergirls posted:will it ruin the mixer or just sound bad Sound bad. Electric guitar really needs to be amplified in some way to sound good. If you can find a mini amp to run in between the board and the guitar you'll be fine.
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Oct 25, 2010 07:23
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I love the Ramones For real, I am having way more fun learning Ramones songs than I was when I was working on Dammit
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Oct 25, 2010 23:20
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Lots of people seem to have an issue with the 'starter strat' that comes in those squire kits (with the amp and accessories). Is there any particular reason why? I picked one up just after I started learning and it still seems to be fine. It doesn't sound fantastic but it was also $100 new so... is the build quality poo poo or something? Color me confused.
seigfox fucked around with this message at 15:28 on Oct 28, 2010 |
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Oct 28, 2010 13:45
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seigfox posted:Lot's of people seem to have an issue with the 'starter strat' that comes in those squire kits (with the amp and accessories). Is there any particular reason why? I picked one up just after I started learning and it still seems to be fine. It doesn't sound fantastic but it was also $100 new so... is the build quality poo poo or something? Color me confused. While you might have gotten an okay quality guitar, you could have just as easily gotten an absolutely crap guitar, which is why they're advised against. They're made in the worst sweatshops in developing countries by peasants who aren't really trained in QC or guitar luthiery. When you have people who are barely trained working 20 hour days, they generally stop giving a gently caress the 13th hour in. Moral arguments aside, you can't really expect a quality guitar for $100 unless the dollar's value changes drastically.
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Oct 28, 2010 14:43
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Just wanted to plug some video guitar lessons that have helped me immensely. http://www.guitarjamz.com is offering a 3 day free trial to all their video lessons. (about 700) Marty Schwartz is the guys name and he makes his lessons fun and sometimes hilarious. He also posts alot of free lessons on youtube. I feel like I owe this guy a huge thank you, so check it out if you haven't already.
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Oct 28, 2010 21:48
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Alright. It's time I ask for a little help. Short Story: I have a new Bogner Alchemist 112 Tube amp and I need to know the proper procedure for turning the amp on/off. The amp has a 20/standby/40 switch and the on/off switch. I need to know how to turn it on without damaging the amp/tubes. I know that the standby switch is important and that things should be turned on in a certain order. I have been scouring the internet and this form and I have found several sets of instructions but they don't all say the same thing. So I am going to trust you all and ask for some help. The owners manual doesn't detail the procedure and most set of instructions for turning on tube amps don't have three way toggle switches for the standby. Long Story: I've been learning (trying) guitar for about a year now. No lessons ... just me and my friend the internet. Everything is going as slow as you might imagine but I'm enjoying it quite a bit. Until recently I had been satisfied with my Line 6 Spider Jam amp. It's a Digital Effect Modeling amp (for those who don't know). I had been playing an Agile AL-3100 with some Seymour Duncan (Slash) pickups in it. I love this gear. When I started I told myself I would hold off on buying a nice guitar and amp until I had a year under my belt. Well That passed a few months ago and so I have been shopping. Over the last few months I picked up a G&L S-500 (USA) and this Bogner Alchemist. I have never been more motivated to practice but I don't want to kill this amp the first day. The owners manual doesn't detail the procedure other than to say "The upper switch chooses the full power (40w) or low power (20w) mode, and sets the amp to standby (power on, but power amp is not driving the speaker). The lower switch turns the amp on/off." and to set it to standby if no speakers are attached. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Oct 28, 2010 23:39
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Got tendonitis... again. The muscle connecting my elbow to my wrist, on the 'underside' of my forearm (the part that would not tan if you were to sunbathe, let's say) is all swollen and painful. This tends to happen whenever I practice anything fast. Aspiring to shred, that's near unavoidable. Is it the lack of a proper warmup routine? Because I doubt it'd be my technique that's causing this issue: I use only my wrist to pick. What am I doing wrong? This poo poo is so annoying. Not being able to play is annoying.
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Oct 29, 2010 02:40
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:Got tendonitis... again. The muscle connecting my elbow to my wrist, on the 'underside' of my forearm (the part that would not tan if you were to sunbathe, let's say) is all swollen and painful. If it's your picking hand, you're probably gripping way too hard
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Oct 29, 2010 03:14
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CalvinDooglas posted:don't practice fast. I can play pretty drat fast when I want, but I don't have the metronome set above 84 for anything involving two hands. The fastest thing I practiced today was sextuplets at 77 bpm. You really need a good warmup if you want to pick fast. Yeah, sorry for not mentioning that. I have no issues at all with my fretting hand. It's ALWAYS my picking hand! Always!
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Oct 29, 2010 03:41
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:Because I doubt it'd be my technique that's causing this issue: I use only my wrist to pick. This actually could be the problem: you're putting too much wrist into it. You want to use a combination of wrist and elbow action: picking on one string should be mostly wrist-based, but movement from string to string across the fretboard should be largely elbow-based. Basically the fine movements you want to use your wrist as the angle of your wrist is largely going to go unchanged for picking against an individual string, but to move to another string, you'd have to increase the strain on the wrist, so your elbow has to make this adjustment. If that makes any sense, anyways. I'm certainly not much of a shredder, but when I do get down to extended picking playing this is how I roll and how I've seen a lot of others get to it. YMMV.
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Oct 29, 2010 07:01
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simreal posted:Short Story: I have a new Bogner Alchemist 112 Tube amp and I need to know the proper procedure for turning the amp on/off. The amp has a 20/standby/40 switch and the on/off switch. I need to know how to turn it on without damaging the amp/tubes. When you want to play, leave the 20/standby/40 switch on standby, and flick the power switch on. Wait 30 seconds to a minute before switching the standby switch to either 20 or 40, whichever is your preference. When you're done playing, you should probably leave the standby switch on standby so you don't accidentally power the amp on without it being in standby mode. For the record, if you accidentally power it on incorrectly every once in a while, it's really not a big deal. People tend to exaggerate the fragility of tube amps, they're not delicate pieces of china. Most are actually designed to go places and be mishandled to a reasonable degree. Have fun!
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Oct 29, 2010 08:20
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dark_panda posted:This actually could be the problem: you're putting too much wrist into it. You want to use a combination of wrist and elbow action: picking on one string should be mostly wrist-based, but movement from string to string across the fretboard should be largely elbow-based. Basically the fine movements you want to use your wrist as the angle of your wrist is largely going to go unchanged for picking against an individual string, but to move to another string, you'd have to increase the strain on the wrist, so your elbow has to make this adjustment. This could be it. If I can reach the strings without moving my entire arm, I usually just angle my wrist down and play the strings I need. Carefully examining my playing, my hand and wrist and forearm tense up pretty up bad when I put it in higher gear. Gonna have to think about that consciously and avoid it. Thanks for the tips. Anything else you might have would be appreciated (like how to get rid of this inflammation faster so I can start playing again  ).
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Oct 29, 2010 14:06
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Gorilla Salsa posted:When you want to play, leave the 20/standby/40 switch on standby, and flick the power switch on. Wait 30 seconds to a minute before switching the standby switch to either 20 or 40, whichever is your preference. When you're done playing, you should probably leave the standby switch on standby so you don't accidentally power the amp on without it being in standby mode. Thanks so much for the info. I appreciate the response. This thing sounds amazing.
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Oct 29, 2010 15:05
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:
Contrast baths (switching between hot and cold water) help me. Also look into foam rollers and self-myofascial release, which you can use not only for your forearms, but your shoulders and back. General strength training for your hands also can help. Squeezing tennis balls, wrist rollers, and wrapping rubber bands around your fingers and spreading them area all cheap ways to help. Don't believe people who say it'll make you play faster, though, that's bullshit.
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Oct 29, 2010 19:28
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SSJ2 Goku Wilders posted:
Hand/arm strecthes, and some over the counter anti-inflamatory (Aleve works great) helped me overcome some work-related tendonitus.
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Oct 29, 2010 19:41
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I wish I had used my metronome earlier. Christ, my chord change speed has tripled in a week. Scales are done at speeds I never thought I could do. Metronome. Metronome. Metronome. Metronome. Metronome. Metronome. So much time wasted just loving around trying to do things my own way.
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Oct 30, 2010 01:03
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Thanks again to everyone for the informative posts.
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Oct 30, 2010 01:22
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I'm working through Wish You Were Here, and at one part it goes: /5 3 /5 /5 3 /4 These are "long slides" according to what my books are showing me. Where do I begin the slide? From the first to the 5th, strum the 3rd fret, then slide from first up to the 5th and 4th?
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Oct 31, 2010 03:40
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Philthy posted:I'm working through Wish You Were Here, and at one part it goes: There isn't really a defined starting point for that kind of slide. It's hard to describe, but look at the lesson as teaching you how to deal with vagueness or subjectivity. "Long slide" is about as specific as it gets in musical notation and interpreting that is up to the player. Listen to the recording and hear how David Gilmour plays it. Work with it and you'll figure out what's too long or short. Sliding into a note like that is an indispensable technique.
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Oct 31, 2010 07:03
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Gorilla Salsa posted:While you might have gotten an okay quality guitar, you could have just as easily gotten an absolutely crap guitar, which is why they're advised against. They're made in the worst sweatshops in developing countries by peasants who aren't really trained in QC or guitar luthiery. When you have people who are barely trained working 20 hour days, they generally stop giving a gently caress the 13th hour in. Moral arguments aside, you can't really expect a quality guitar for $100 unless the dollar's value changes drastically. I don't know, I've seen some good used $100 guitars.
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Oct 31, 2010 23:17
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Thoren posted:I don't know, I've seen some good used $100 guitars. Used is a different story, because there are all sorts of other variables that can add to quality without adding to price. It could be that the seller doesn't know what he/she has, or thinks something that is a really easy fix is actually irreparable damage.
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Nov 1, 2010 13:57
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imo the two shittest things about learning on cheapo guitars are 1) The nut is almost always too high 2) The tuners are almost always horrible A high nut makes it much more harder to fret notes and screws up your intonation, so even if you do manage to keep it in tune, your open chords are still gonna sound off.
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Nov 2, 2010 12:36
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babychimps posted:imo the two shittest things about learning on cheapo guitars are yse. My first proper guitar was a budget model OLP John Petrucci signature series. It's a terrible guitar until you swap out the tuners. I don't know a lot about the nut but the problem of open chords sounding like crap is there, especially if you use a bit more force to strike them.
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Nov 2, 2010 13:06
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I have an entry level Ibanez and I'm seeing that many people replace the pickups on this model almost right away. I can't say I'm totally dissatisfied with the sound, but I just started playing near the beginning of the year and I'm still experimenting with all the settings on my newer amp/ pedals. I have listened to tons of samples on websites and off youtube, but i can't decide whether or not its worth it. Are new pickups something that a new player like myself will benefit from, or are they mostly something more advanced players would use to nail a particular sound? And on a technical note, I can't seem to get the right sound to come out when I'm chucking. I can do it pretty consistently now, and it sounds ok on my acoustic, but when I try for a funky/reggae groove on my electric it just doesn't work. The sound just isn't pronounced enough, I can hear it because I'm playing and listening for it, but someone else might not hear it at all. I can either get the initial bite right but with no 'wicka', almost completely unable to hear the upstroke; Or I over do it and get this horrible sound, like a duck getting its neck stomped, which is not funky at all even though the chuck is very audible. I've put in some practice because initially i was just getting weird harmonics all the time, but now that I'm trying again I don't know what else I'm doing wrong or how to fix it, any tips?
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Nov 2, 2010 18:05
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Xlyfindel posted:Are new pickups something that a new player like myself will benefit from, or are they mostly something more advanced players would use to nail a particular sound? If you find pickups that you're really hung up on, though, you can always save the stock ones and reinstall them when you do get a new guitar. quote:I don't know what else I'm doing wrong or how to fix it, any tips? lay your fingers flat against the strings so they are making firm contact, but not pressing on the frets. After a while you'll be able to mute without as much movement, but get used to the feeling now.
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Nov 3, 2010 06:35
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I've been playing guitar for almost a year now, but have been playing sitting down. I recently started trying to play while standing up and I'm having trouble keeping the guitar steady. I'm having a hard time hitting the right fingerings now that the guitar isn't as steady as when I was playing sitting down. Are there any methods for keeping it steady while playing standing up?
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Nov 3, 2010 23:02
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Saddamnit posted:I've been playing guitar for almost a year now, but have been playing sitting down. I recently started trying to play while standing up and I'm having trouble keeping the guitar steady. I'm having a hard time hitting the right fingerings now that the guitar isn't as steady as when I was playing sitting down. Are there any methods for keeping it steady while playing standing up? Experiment with different heights/strap settings and positions relative to your body. I had this same problem. It's the reason my guitar is at nipple height if I'm standing up. Don't worry, a day or two of practice and it'll get a lot easier.
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Nov 4, 2010 00:50
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CalvinDooglas posted:Depends how much the guitar is worth. heh, I hadn't even considered the prices. Yeah the cost for both pickups I had been looking at adds up to almost half what I paid for the guitar I'd be putting them in. I'll definitely do some reading up on what actually makes a high quality guitar before I make a decision one way or the other. quote:lay your fingers flat against the strings so they are making firm contact, but not pressing on the frets. After a while you'll be able to mute without as much movement, but get used to the feeling now. Thanks, seems like the 'quacking' was coming from pressing way too hard and hitting the strings on the upstroke while still releasing all that tension. All that practice hasn't gone to waste though, just going to have to practice more and adjust my timing for the smaller movement.
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Nov 4, 2010 02:00
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Man learning the fretboard makes improv/jamming/learning songs sooo much easier, definitely do this if you've been putting it off
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Nov 4, 2010 03:15
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So artificial harmonics. I can produce them on the non-wound strings(ebg) without much effort but on the wound strings(daE) its much more difficult. I can 100% of the time do it using a "pinch" where I actually pinch pluck the string between a finger and a pick, but that takes precious time to set up to preform in an acceptable way. Amplified with distortion I can almost always produce a harmonic; but unamplified, on the wound strings, its super quiet. How can I get a louder resonating artificial harmonic on these bass strings without using amplification? *edit* I feel like I should add this: I play a semi hollow guitar(epiphone dot studio) because its not as loud as an acoustic but doesn't really need an amp. I live in a thin-walled apartment building and I don't want to piss of my neighbors. Probably a good thing as the most recent song I've decided to learn to play is Poison's "unskinny bop" which, sadly, is a lot of fun to play. FetusSlapper fucked around with this message at 09:53 on Nov 5, 2010 |
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Nov 5, 2010 09:46
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FetusSlapper posted:So artificial harmonics. I can produce them on the non-wound strings(ebg) without much effort but on the wound strings(daE) its much more difficult. I can 100% of the time do it using a "pinch" where I actually pinch pluck the string between a finger and a pick, but that takes precious time to set up to preform in an acceptable way. Amplified with distortion I can almost always produce a harmonic; but unamplified, on the wound strings, its super quiet. How can I get a louder resonating artificial harmonic on these bass strings without using amplification? Check out tapped harmonics and plucked harmonics. A plucked harmonic is an artificial harmonic where you place a finger on your right hand where the harmonic is and then pluck it. Tapped harmonics are the harmonics you get when you tap the string with a finger on your right hand.
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Nov 5, 2010 20:46
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I've been looking to get started on learning how to play and stopped by the only music store in my area. The second I walked through the door he steered me towards some bundles and said that the Squier Strat pack was my best bet. They're charging $320 for it but I've seen it for less online. The clerk didn't really give much info about playing the guitar itself. Said to go on youtube because you wouldn't believe the poo poo you could learn there these days. So is that pack a good choice for a newbie?
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Nov 8, 2010 20:37
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Not for that price, no. You could probably get all the stuff from that starter pack for like 80 bucks at a pawn shop. I'd recommend checking out Rondo Music for a guitar and looking around for the best deal you find on something like a Roland Microcube or Vox VT15. You'll still spend less than what they were offering that pack for and sound a lot better.
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Nov 8, 2010 21:35
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Max Volume posted:Not for that price, no. You could probably get all the stuff from that starter pack for like 80 bucks at a pawn shop. I'd recommend checking out Rondo Music for a guitar and looking around for the best deal you find on something like a Roland Microcube or Vox VT15. You'll still spend less than what they were offering that pack for and sound a lot better. Any guitar in specific that you'd suggest?
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Nov 8, 2010 21:47
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The $100-150 guitars are going to all be about the same in terms of quality (still better than the guitars in those strat packs) so if you want to go as cheap as possible you could just get whichever type suits your taste. Personally even if you're not sure you're going to stick with playing I'd just go ahead and pick up one of the Agile AL-2000 series guitars. You spend a little more but they're really solid for what you pay for.
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Nov 8, 2010 21:54
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Luff posted:Check out tapped harmonics and plucked harmonics. A plucked harmonic is an artificial harmonic where you place a finger on your right hand where the harmonic is and then pluck it. Tapped harmonics are the harmonics you get when you tap the string with a finger on your right hand. Also it might help to take your fretting finger off the string as soon as you sound the harmonic, so it can ring out cleanly
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Nov 8, 2010 23:00
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