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So one of my wheeling buddies got a JK and sold his H1. Surprised me but he told me he wanted something with warranty on it for a change. He added a 4 inch lift and 37's and re-geared it. I'll check it out tomorrow in person when we go wheeling. In comparison that H1 next to it, has a 4" lift with 40" pro comps. That's a big JK. If they come with a diesel engine model, I'd get one and do the same.  Or maybe I should get a CJ and do a cummins swap... that would wind up costing me the same as a new JK. Hmmmmmmmmmmm.
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Oct 29, 2010 22:56
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Geared Hub posted:If they come with a diesel engine model, I'd get one and do the same. If you have more money than God, AEV would be happy to sell you a VINless J8 body and a crated up diesel powertrain. 
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Oct 30, 2010 01:33
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My YJ has a very optimistic fuel gauge. When you fill it up it goes way past F and starts sputtering a little just under 1/4 tank indicated.
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Oct 30, 2010 04:36
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Molten Llama posted:If you have more money than God, AEV would be happy to sell you a VINless J8 body and a crated up diesel powertrain. Yeah, they're asking about 50k. I can do a diesel conversion for much less then that, unless I start with a brand new JK then I'd would cost about the same. Still cheaper than the Icon 4x4 by a large margin. The AEV products look great though, I like the Brute. It's just one 4x4 toy is enough for now... maybe.. 
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Oct 30, 2010 05:22
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Molten Llama posted:If you For $40,000.  Seriously, the $21k base price for the Wrangler in the US is cheaper than piss.
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Oct 30, 2010 11:58
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We get CRD Jeeps (yes, even Liberties and GCs) here in Costa Rica. Pitty they run like exotic cars though, they cheapest Wrangler/Liberty you can get is for 35k, a Rubi running for 56k. Variable Geometry Turbos are beautiful things, meaning these jeeps get ~178hp as well as ~300ft/lb. Amazing machines, but it's sad how incredibly expensive they are. My '90 4.2L Yj cost me $7000, and that's cheap. Makes you wonder why we are poor and have to pay exceedingly high prices for good cars (your Hyundais are cheap as heck here, but break down every other day).
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Oct 30, 2010 15:52
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Steiler Drep posted:We get CRD Jeeps (yes, even Liberties and GCs) here in Costa Rica. Pitty they run like exotic cars though, they cheapest Wrangler/Liberty you can get is for 35k, a Rubi running for 56k. Variable Geometry Turbos are beautiful things, meaning these jeeps get ~178hp as well as ~300ft/lb. Amazing machines, but it's sad how incredibly expensive they are. My '90 4.2L Yj cost me $7000, and that's cheap. Makes you wonder why we are poor and have to pay exceedingly high prices for good cars (your Hyundais are cheap as heck here, but break down every other day). They're not our Hyundais, they're Korea's. They still break down all the time here though.
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Oct 30, 2010 20:55
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EightBit posted:They're not our Hyundais, they're Korea's. They still break down all the time here though. Haha yeah I was meaning "your everyday Hyundais", I know they're Korean. Surprises me though that 70% of cars you see on the street here are either Hyundais or Toyotas. Toyota has a good reliability record, but come on...Hyunai!?
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Oct 30, 2010 21:54
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Steiler Drep posted:Haha yeah I was meaning "your everyday Hyundais", I know they're Korean. "But its all covered by the warranty  "I don't know about some people, but I buy a car so that I can drive it, not to have it spend one month of every year in a shop.
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Oct 31, 2010 19:01
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EightBit posted:"But its all covered by the warranty Thats true, but I don't think they even take it to shops. Those pieces of poo poo just run around throwing black smoke everywhere. This week alone, I've seen 3 90s Excels on the side of the rode with blown heads. Anyone knows where you can get a Snorkel for a 4.2L YJ? They only seem to be available for FI jeeps.
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Oct 31, 2010 20:26
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MrZig posted:Those people are also retards because waiting until the gas light is on can be horrible for the fuel pump. Not only might it overheat but it can suck in any sediment in the tank. Since fuel pumps always pull from the bottom of the tank, no. The only thing you could get would be floating stuff, and even then it'd have to get past the pump sock, which is around 30 micron. Water/liquid contamination and finer particles can get through, but those aren't ususally floating on the surface of a tank. I pulled a 560K mile tank from a Cherokee on its original pump and the sock was only somewhat dirty, but if you fill from billion year old metal Jerry cans or Bubba's Backwater "Gas" Station you might have issues, but there's little the sock won't get. Overheating isn't that much of an issue, there are plenty of internal pumps converted to external use with no adverse effects. Most pass the fuel around the motor windings and absorb the heat generated, which isn't much.
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Oct 31, 2010 21:09
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EightBit posted:"But its all covered by the warranty And that's why I have a Hyundai, since in the past year my Jeep's needed just to stay running: New gas tank carb rebuild oil change diff fluid change fuel pump egr valve all new vacuum lines battery My Hyundai has needed: gas oil. Sometimes the Jeep is the broken down POS,
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Nov 1, 2010 03:32
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Yeah I got a Toyota Corolla to do all my driving/commuting in. The Jeep is now officially a toy. On the subject of gas gauges, I had wondered how prevalent a hilariously inaccurate gauge was. On mine, it never goes below half a tank, and starts sputtering in the region of half. Sometimes just above half, sometimes just at half, and sometimes just below. No real rhyme or reason to it. Filling it up results in the needle going well past full and staying there forever, only dropping down below F on its rapid descent to half-aka-empty. One thing I've noticed is that with a gas gauge like that, you tend to know EXACTLY how much fuel you have at all times. Sadly my tachometer's behavior isn't too far off from that description as well. It only goes between 1k and 2k RPM, although when I pinged it off the rev limiter one time climbing a dusty hill in 2WD I did get to see about 2100 RPM.
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Nov 1, 2010 04:50
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Clamwacker posted:Yeah I got a Toyota Corolla to do all my driving/commuting in. The Jeep is now officially a toy. On the subject of gas gauges, I had wondered how prevalent a hilariously inaccurate gauge was. On mine, it never goes below half a tank, and starts sputtering in the region of half. Sometimes just above half, sometimes just at half, and sometimes just below. No real rhyme or reason to it. Filling it up results in the needle going well past full and staying there forever, only dropping down below F on its rapid descent to half-aka-empty. Did you get your Jeep new? It sounds like someone hosed up the floats in your fuel pump. That's nowhere near normal.
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Nov 1, 2010 15:24
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I replaced the right rear wheel sensor in the new-to-me $1200 240k mile black 1997 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L auto part-time 4x4 yesterday. It was really easy but dirty. The brake problem is pretty much gone. The ABS no longer engages when coming to a complete stop. The pedal is kind of spongy but I am going to flush out the brakes on all four corners and see if that helps. I replaced the rear diff fluid with new gear oil and friction modifier (Dana 35 limited slip rear end). The diff still howls when a load is put on it. My neighbor thinks one or more bearings in the diff are wiped out and need replacing. He says it is a big job but not terribly expensive. The truck has ABS brakes. I will not be lifting this Jeep or fitting bigger tires. The most I will ever possibly tow would be a 3000 pound car on a trailer (if that). Is it worthwhile to rebuild the Dana 35 rear or would it be better (possible) to swap it for a Chrysler 8.25 and retain the ABS? This truck will not see any serious trails while I own it. So with the window regulator replaced and the brakes working normally I drove the Black Sheep Jeep to work this morning. The low fuel light was on, but I figured there was enough gas to make it to work. After a couple miles on the interstate a piece fell off. It was the right front fender trim. I saw it on the shoulder in the rear view mirror so I will try to retrieve it at lunch today. A couple miles later the truck started chugging like it was out of gas. I made it off the interstate but it died on the off-ramp and the check engine light came on. While it was coasting I bumped it up into neutral so I could restart it and accidentally bumped it into reverse. I hope nothing was damaged. The truck still goes forward and shifts up and down through the gears and reverse still works so I don't think I caused any severe damage. Maybe that is why the CEL is on? I will find out later today either at lunch when I go dump a bunch of used oil at the auto parts store or when I go home and I can use my OBD-II scanner. I started the engine back up and it ran just fine to the gas station a couple blocks away. The check engine light stayed on. The matrix inside the catalyst on this truck is broken and it rattles when the engine is running. I stopped at an exhaust shop to see if they could put in a straight pipe in place of the cat and they said it was not possible because of the secondary oxygen sensor. They offered to replace the cat for $250. I said I would think about it. I was under the impression that you could wire in a resistor in place of the oxygen sensor and go about your business. There is no emissions testing in Nebraska but I don't want to drive around with a check engine light all the time.
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Nov 1, 2010 16:33
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I wish ours had a tach, despite not really needing one in an automatic.
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Nov 1, 2010 17:18
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Getting ready to put all of this on my '06 TJ next week. It's a 4" short arm lift. Kind of a long story. I was poking around on 4WD hardware's website almost 2 years ago and I saw a 4" 'economy' lift kit from Skyjacker on sale for barely $500. It had springs, shocks, and fixed lower control arms (as well as TC drop and misc hardware, etc). I had some extra cash at the time so I bought it on the spur of the moment. After I recieved it, I was searching online and saw some reviews of the kit...not very good. Apparently the control arms are crap, as are the shocks. I regretted my decision but didn't want the hassle (and expense) of shipping it all back. So I decided to take the time (and money) and put together the parts to make this kit work. My investigation revealed that the Skyjackers springs might not be complete garbage, so I decided to stick with them. The next thing I needed to address was the control arms. I started with a full set of Rough Country X-Flex adjustable control arms (upper and lower, front and rear). A few months later, I got a Rough Country adjustable front track bar. Shortly after that, I got a rear adjustable track bar by JKS on sale. Another month or so went by and I picked up a set of JKS quicker swaybar disconnects. Now at this point this was pretty much everything I needed for the suspension, but I really didn't like the idea of doing a bigger transfer case drop. After looking around, I decided to pick up a PORC SYE kit. A couple months later, I learned about a company called Undercover Fabworks that makes some nice looking aftermarket belly pans for Wranglers. I decided to pick up an extra-clearance belly pan. This would only require a 1" body lift. They make an ultra-clearance pan but it requires a 2" body lift or a lot of clearancing in the tub. I went with the extra clearance pan because it's only hangs about an inch lower and it's less work to get it in (and it's still a big improvement over stock). This requires the aforementioned 1" body lift and riser motor mounts (both of which were supplied by JKS over the next couple months). Oh, one last thing. I mentioned before that I have heard that the Skyjacker shocks (Hydro 7000's) are junk, but I decided since I already have them I'll go ahead and use them for a while until I can afford better ones. I finally finished putting all the parts together last month. The belly pan came in bare steel so I needed to have it powdercoated anyway so I decided to get the control arms/track bars and springs powdercoated to match. I don't know if this is considered "off road rice" or not, but it's the way I want it so I don't care. I had a friend do the powdercoating for a total of $400 ($200 for prep, $200 for the powder), not counting the belly pan which he said would be less than $100. He's finishing the belly pan this week and hopefully I'll have it back and ready to start work by the middle of next week. I have to take my TJ on a hunting trip on the 19th so hopefully everything will be done by then. Last thing - I have a set of Skyjacker extended length lower control arms, transfer case lowering kit, rear trackbar relocation bracket, and front extended sway bar end links left over. If anybody is interested in any of that, let me know.
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Nov 5, 2010 00:33
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Just installed Napier Precision v2 fender flares on my XJ last weekend. These things are super nice, thicker and tougher than Bushwackers, and actually cheaper too. I was really impressed with the quality and I've seen shorter installation instructions with turbo kits. I did the fronts last weekend in the free time I had, and hopefully I can get to the rears this weekend.    I ripped up my front fenders on a trip to Cleghorn near Big Bear, CA in September and these flares seemed to be the best way to straighten them out. Worked perfectly. I cut about 2-3 inches of metal off the fenders and should hopefully have no trouble with clearance now. For only 3" of lift and 31x10 tires I think the clearance is looking pretty good. Now if only I could figure out why my passenger headlight keeps blowing its fuse.... the list of things to do never ends.
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Nov 5, 2010 02:44
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Doctor Zero posted:Did you get your Jeep new? It sounds like someone hosed up the floats in your fuel pump. That's nowhere near normal. Nah I bought it used, it's been like that since I bought it. I know there's definitely something "wrong" (as in, more wrong than normal) with it, but it's the least of my concerns at this point, I have plenty of other things to work on with that Jeep.
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Nov 5, 2010 04:11
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323LX posted:Getting ready to put all of this on my '06 TJ next week. It's a 4" short arm lift. Kind of a long story. I wish those lower control arms were for an XJ, id definitely buy them off you. edit: Looks like they will fit, how much you want? Bojanglesworth fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Nov 5, 2010 |
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Nov 5, 2010 04:14
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Just want to be clear: the control arms that I would be selling are NOT the ones in the picture (I can send you a picture if you want). They are fixed length non-adjustable ones that came with the Skyjacker kit and they reuse the stock bushings. I just want to make sure I'm not misleading you. Having said that, let me know if you're still interested and I'll sell them to you cheap.
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Nov 5, 2010 21:07
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Questions on my 1999 XJ I-6 w/ 100k: Whenever it was warm out, say above 25-30, and I turned on my defroster, the belt would squeal like a banshee and there would be a major draw on the battery. Tightening the belt didn't have any effect, but some belt lube helped for a little bit. I talked to the local mechanic today and he unhooked the A/C compressor and it seems to be doing the trick. He said that the a/c compressor was about shot and the noise came from resistance from the compressor's fly-wheel. I live in Alaska and it almost never gets above 65, so I have never used my A/C and I don't care if it doesn't work. Is his diagnosis correct? And if so, should I cover up the connection from the engine with some tape and spray or whatever to make sure it doesn't corrode? I don't plan on getting the A/C fixed if that matters.
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Nov 7, 2010 00:34
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323LX posted:Just want to be clear: the control arms that I would be selling are NOT the ones in the picture (I can send you a picture if you want). They are fixed length non-adjustable ones that came with the Skyjacker kit and they reuse the stock bushings. I just want to make sure I'm not misleading you. Having said that, let me know if you're still interested and I'll sell them to you cheap. Cool. Any idea what lift they would be good with? Currently I am at 3.5" and fine with my stockers, but I am about to go up another 2" and I will probably need to use different control arms.
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Nov 7, 2010 01:06
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I Drink Stove Oil posted:Questions on my 1999 XJ I-6 w/ 100k: The defroster engages the A/C to remove moisture from the air it blows onto the windshield. Though this is besides the point. It's my understanding that lack of use of an A/C compressor will frequently cause it to fail over time, as it tends to seize up if it never moves. I believe there are serpentine belts you can get for the 4.0 that will bypass the compressor if you want to remove it completely. If you want to leave it in, just disconnecting the power to the clutch should solve your problem. If you think you (or the next owner) might ever want to use it again, covering up the connects would make it easier to properly repair down the road. I wouldn't spary anything on it, since water-displacing sprays like WD-40 are flammable to spraying them near live electrical connections is probably a bad idea. Some other goons might know of something that's safe to use. Cover it with some plastic and tape it up tight on a dry day and it should be fine when you undo it.
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Nov 7, 2010 02:03
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Clamwacker posted:Nah I bought it used, it's been like that since I bought it. I know there's definitely something "wrong" (as in, more wrong than normal) with it, but it's the least of my concerns at this point, I have plenty of other things to work on with that Jeep. That's how my buddy's 89 XJ is, half is empty and full is way past the scale. Its better than the undamped gauge in my CJ, which bounces around. Then again you at least you kinda guess where it is in the middle.
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Nov 7, 2010 03:52
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fordham posted:The defroster engages the A/C to remove moisture from the air it blows onto the windshield. Though this is besides the point. Thanks for the advice. I don't foresee needing the a/c to work any time soon, so leaving it in place but disconnected would be easier. I'm not much with a wrench and just leaving it be and not worrying about the bypass serpentine belt is going to be the way to go. It's been dry and cold here, so I reckon to wrap the connections in electrical tape with a duct tape overlay. Thanks again.
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Nov 7, 2010 08:38
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Bojanglesworth posted:Cool. Any idea what lift they would be good with? Currently I am at 3.5" and fine with my stockers, but I am about to go up another 2" and I will probably need to use different control arms. It appears that they're made for 2-4" of lift. Let me know if you want them.
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Nov 7, 2010 14:43
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323LX posted:It appears that they're made for 2-4" of lift. Let me know if you want them. poo poo, I am going to be at 5.5". What do you think? I mean I am fine now with the stocks at 3.5 so if they are any longer than stock It would probably be fine, right? Can you measure them for me? Edit: I found this so if you could measure them for me that'd be great. Or even link me to what they are: 
Bojanglesworth fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Nov 7, 2010 |
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Nov 7, 2010 18:19
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Bojanglesworth posted:poo poo, I am going to be at 5.5". What do you think? I mean I am fine now with the stocks at 3.5 so if they are any longer than stock It would probably be fine, right? Can you measure them for me? Here is the full list actually:  It looks like if I just got the drop brackets I would be OK with my stock LCA's. I would still like to pick up yours depending on the length though since aftermarket is most definitely be better than my thrashed 11 year old stockers.
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Nov 7, 2010 18:28
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Bojanglesworth posted:lots of stuff done. Newest being the basket: this is beautiful, exactly what I'm looking for in a jeep could you give me a breakdown of what you've done to it and what it cost you? Do you recommend someone else do the same? Help a brother out here, I've only owned (truck wise) an 86 Toyota Truck, and it was only for 3 months or so, and I'm completely lost when it comes to Jeeps.
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Nov 8, 2010 01:43
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Bojanglesworth posted:Here is the full list actually: Edit: Waffleimages seems to be down right now, can't get my pictures to upload. I'll try again later. Looks like they're just over 18" total length; looks like a little over 16" from center bushing to center bushing. I'd say it's probably closest to 16.33" in your table.
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Nov 8, 2010 02:35
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My YJ's got a 2" shackle lift (which converts to 1" overall) with stock leafs. The PO changed shocks according to the lift. If I remove these shackles and make a 3" leaf lift, would I be able to keep my shocks? It'd be 2" bigger than what it's got right now
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Nov 8, 2010 02:45
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Tangy Zizzle posted:this is beautiful, exactly what I'm looking for in a jeep Hey thanks man! I made a build thread over on another forum that I am on, you can check it out here: http://www.canibeat.com/forum/showthread.php?603-Not-a-normal-CIB-vehicle-Oversize-build-thread&highlight=Jeep I just recently put some 33" super swampers on it, picked them up used for $200 for five (one of them was literally brand new) including that I would say I have less than $1000 into it, not including the price of the Jeep itself. I have managed to get great prices on stuff just by searching around on different forums and craigslist. Wheelin and Dealin! 323LX posted:Edit: Waffleimages seems to be down right now, can't get my pictures to upload. I'll try again later. Sweet, that sounds pretty ideal. PMed Bojanglesworth fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Nov 8, 2010 |
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Nov 8, 2010 03:56
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New photo of my rig with 33" super swampers:
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Nov 9, 2010 19:35
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Since this is Jeep related this might be a good place to ask. I just got a '99 Cherokee that seemed to be in really nice shape, until I seen this 2 days after buying it. It's all gritty and clumpy feeling. At first I was concerned it was perhaps a bad head gasket or something but it doesn't seem like it is oil/coolant mixed. It's running fine and the spark plugs aren't wet or anything when I pulled them. No coolant in my oil pan. Temp gauge is where it should be. I guess I am going to flush it, but do you think it is the result of a bigger problem or just typical rust/cooling system neglect? I had a mechanic type friend tell me it's normal for 4.0s, but that seems silly. The coolant was also about a gallon low when I checked it, this picture is right after I added the gallon of 50/50 to it.  Click here for the full 1600x1205 image.
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Nov 10, 2010 15:27
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ornery owl posted:Since this is Jeep related this might be a good place to ask. Doesn't some of that radiator leak-stop poo poo cause that?
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Nov 10, 2010 15:42
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fordham posted:Doesn't some of that radiator leak-stop poo poo cause that? I would do a complete coolant flush at the very least. Bad radiators kill jeep 4.0l engines all the time.
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Nov 10, 2010 15:47
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stik posted:I would do a complete coolant flush at the very least. Bad radiators kill jeep 4.0l engines all the time. I just went out and checked it again after driving about 25 miles, it isn't actually all that gritty it's more like frothy/foamy. It was also low again.  Click here for the full 771x1024 image. owls or something fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 15:53
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ornery owl posted:I just went out and checked it again after driving about 25 miles, it isn't actually all that gritty it's more like frothy/foamy. It was also low again. Did you smell your exhaust to ensure you're not burning it? There's only so many ways it can go down that much that quickly. Though the level changes with temperature as the engine warms up (I'm sure you know this already, I'm just saying.) Sharp_angus fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 16:23
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ornery owl posted:I just went out and checked it again after driving about 25 miles, it isn't actually all that gritty it's more like frothy/foamy. It was also low again. It may be too late.  It looks like you may have oil in your coolant. Does it have any history of overheating as far as you know? Edit: unlike chocolate and peanut butter they don't make each other better. I had the reverse happen to me. Coolant in the oil. I did a motor swap stik fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 16:37
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