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GanjamonII posted:Hows it ride? I really wanna upgrade the seat but I'm a bit torn on spending $260 or whatever it is for a corbin.. I really like it. It sits about an inch lower than the stock seat, so my center of gravity is rooted a touch deeper in the bike, which seems to allow for better handling, better control, and I'm able to take corners a little faster without getting nervous. I've only had the seat on for a couple days, so these are just first impressions. I haven't been on it longer than an hour in one sitting, so I can't really speak on how it favors distance. As far as comfort goes, the difference is night and day. For what its worth, the general consensus among SV riders (the ones I've talked to, anyway) is the Sargent seat is better suited for the SV650 than the Corbin. Your mileage may vary, though. Overall, I'm glad I made the investment. It doesn't hurt that it's got a bitchin' look to it, either 
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Oct 25, 2010 19:21
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ynotony posted:My first proper fill-up on my 2006 and it returned only 36mpg. All of my riding on the last tank was urban/traffic etc. Fuel light went on at ~95mi. The bike is new and I haven't really been beyond 6k yet so I'm riding pretty conservatively. Should I be concerned, or is 36mpg for stoplight to stoplight riding expected? 36mpg is pretty low.. Did you fill it up completely? My fuel light usually comes on at 140 or so, giving me about 46-50MPG depending on how hard I hammer on it throughout the day.
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Oct 26, 2010 18:48
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SaNChEzZ posted:36mpg is pretty low.. Did you fill it up completely? My fuel light usually comes on at 140 or so, giving me about 46-50MPG depending on how hard I hammer on it throughout the day. Leaving out a half a gallon or so would explain things. I remember filling it until the autostop, but don't remember if the bike was upright or if autostop was premature. I made sure the tank was full this time so I'm waiting to see what happens.
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Oct 26, 2010 19:47
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The autostop doesn't work on a motorcycle, it leaves the top 1/4-6th of the tank empty, depending on design. You have to watch it and taper it off manually. Expect to cover things in gasoline every so often until you get the hang of it.
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Oct 26, 2010 20:13
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There are some pumps where you are hosed anyways. I've been to pumps where no matter how little pressure you use, they will start the flow at full force and taper down from there as you let off, you can't start it at a trickle. So, if you accidentally cut off the stream halfway and have to get the gas going again, it goes everywhere until you can taper it off again. Annoying.
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Oct 26, 2010 20:35
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I fill completely and calculate mileage based on how much gas the pump says I added. I'm getting 35-39 mpg, and it's really frustrating. I've put new plugs in, cleaned out the air filter, changed the oil and oil filter, and it hasn't changed. I think I'll save up a bit and take it to the shop to get the carbs synched, but aside from that I'm kinda out of ideas. I don't ride it particularly hard, I usually shift before 4.5k rpm on the street, etc.
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Oct 26, 2010 21:30
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For anyone with an Android phone who wants to keep track, I use the Mileage app and love it: http://androidandme.com/2010/04/reviews/mileage-tracking-fuel-consumption-the-easy-way/
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Oct 26, 2010 21:41
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benwards posted:I fill completely and calculate mileage based on how much gas the pump says I added. I'm getting 35-39 mpg, and it's really frustrating. I've put new plugs in, cleaned out the air filter, changed the oil and oil filter, and it hasn't changed. I think I'll save up a bit and take it to the shop to get the carbs synched, but aside from that I'm kinda out of ideas. I don't ride it particularly hard, I usually shift before 4.5k rpm on the street, etc. Try reving it out more. Engines are most efficient at peak torque, so if you're constantly pinning it and short shifting, you're going to burn a lot more gas than you will if you rev it out a bit more but are a lot lighter on the throttle. I believe peak torque on an SV is around 6k. I'd usually shift around there when I was cruising around town, and would try to keep it over 4k because the engine liked to vibe and jump around at low RPM.
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Oct 26, 2010 22:16
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Z3n posted:Try reving it out more. Engines are most efficient at peak torque, so if you're constantly pinning it and short shifting, you're going to burn a lot more gas than you will if you rev it out a bit more but are a lot lighter on the throttle. I believe peak torque on an SV is around 6k. I'd usually shift around there when I was cruising around town, and would try to keep it over 4k because the engine liked to vibe and jump around at low RPM. Will try this and report back. 
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Oct 26, 2010 23:02
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Z3n posted:The autostop doesn't work on a motorcycle, it leaves the top 1/4-6th of the tank empty, depending on design. You have to watch it and taper it off manually. Expect to cover things in gasoline every so often until you get the hang of it. What I do is use the gas cap thing to hold back the boot on the pump and then I stick like 1" of the nozzle into the tank and watch it to make sure I get every cent's worth. Hasn't failed me yet, except that one time I wasn't watching and got my crotch all covered in gas  Serves me right for sitting on the bike instead of standing over it to keep it level.
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Oct 26, 2010 23:10
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Z3n posted:Try reving it out more. Engines are most efficient at peak torque, so if you're constantly pinning it and short shifting, you're going to burn a lot more gas than you will if you rev it out a bit more but are a lot lighter on the throttle. I believe peak torque on an SV is around 6k. I'd usually shift around there when I was cruising around town, and would try to keep it over 4k because the engine liked to vibe and jump around at low RPM. Will try this to improve my mileage too. I'm another new rider thats been shifting at 5k when I'm on the street for 6 months now. Mine has been seeing some harder use sometimes too, and I seemed to be getting about 45mpg whether I'm hammering on it really hard or taking it easy trying to save gas. Shifting at 6k on the street will be better in so many ways.
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Oct 27, 2010 18:01
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Z3n posted:Try reving it out more. Engines are most efficient at peak torque, so if you're constantly pinning it and short shifting, you're going to burn a lot more gas than you will if you rev it out a bit more but are a lot lighter on the throttle. I believe peak torque on an SV is around 6k. I'd usually shift around there when I was cruising around town, and would try to keep it over 4k because the engine liked to vibe and jump around at low RPM. Just adding that I'm another new SV owner that has been shifting too low  Thanks Z3n!Going from an ancient Harley to an '05 SV has been quite the transition; I've realized that the SV is a totally different animal and that all my instincts on the Sportster basically need to be recalibrated for the SV. (like the fact that the brakes work, for example) A few small questions to try and reset my brain for all you SV gurus: I find my bike to be a little "clicky" in the top end at warm up (until about 130F). Is this normal? It's not crazy sounding like a Ducati or something, but it's definitely there. It has adequate oil (according to the sightglass), and only has 3800 miles. How much can I do to adjust the stock suspension to make it less front-end divey? I'm 6'1" and weigh 175/180 so I'm not exactly what this thing was tuned for out of the factory. Is there a table or something online I can use to adjust the front/back for my weight?
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Oct 27, 2010 19:13
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Low-sided in my parking lot today. I'll just copy and paste from my Svrider thread: It finally happened. The number of times I went around that corner thinking "If I ever go down, this will be the spot." Was in my parking lot, too! I want to say I was doing 10, so it was probably more like 15. As I was going left, I hit a patch of wet and pine needles when my rear end came out, I went down, landing on my hip, and the bike slid away. Though he took crappy care of the bike, I give props to the previous owner for getting decent frame sliders. I was surprised at how well my bicycle bar-end mirrors held up. Aside from some scuffing on the outside and the mirror itself breaking, it's still very solid. The shift lever is broken, and the clutch lever is bent. My pants (good thing I had em, otherwise it'd just have been jeans between my rear end and the asphalt) have a bit of a scuff on the hip padding. The stitching seems to have held up well. After a quick visit the to ER, I have a prescription for 800mG Ibuprofen and 50mG Ultram along with a deep bruise in my hip & arse. http://fi.somethingawful.com/is/gal.php?g=crash001.jpg
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Oct 27, 2010 20:10
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himajinga posted:Just adding that I'm another new SV owner that has been shifting too low The SV stock suspension is basically poo poo. You do have options though: Front) 1. Swap the whole front end for a GSXR. 2. Put in heavier weight fork oil. 3. Put in heavier weight fork springs. 4. Get some emulators. 5. Adjust preload to give it less travel. Rear) 1. Swap a stock 05/06 ZX10 shock (direct bolt on) 2. Swap any other shock that fits the size but do some cutting to the battery box to fit the position of the shock reservoir. 3. Get a Penske or Ohlins custom job if you think you may track it up. 4. Adjust preload to give it less travel.
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Oct 27, 2010 20:59
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himajinga posted:Just adding that I'm another new SV owner that has been shifting too low What z3n said, and also check out the racetech website it will suggest the appropriate fork spring rate for your weight. Its my first bike but from what I've read the stock springs are very soft and the fork oil is real thin. I bottom mine out on bumps like uneven pavement and I weigh ~200 lbs geared up. I looked into doing the GSXR front end but the cost really adds up. A complete frontend minus wheel is about 4-600$ on ebay (though you can probably find them cheaper I haven't seen them) and it might come with all the goodies attached, if not then more expenses to get clipons, brakes etc. Then you need a front wheel (1-200$) and I'm sure there will be other small expenses along the way like getting your tire put onto the new wheel, small bits and pieces etc. Thats probably gonna total $800+. I'd do the research on prices yourself though dont take my word for it. Stiffer springs are 80-120$ plus another 15$ for fork oil and it doesnt look that hard to do if you have the tools. Im gonna give it a shot in a couple weeks. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Oct 27, 2010 |
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Oct 27, 2010 22:11
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The best deal I ever got on a gsx-r front end was 250$ + shipping, the most I've spent is around 600$. Take some time searching, and take advantage of this for compatibility: http://www.gregoryli.com/2007/06/gsx-r-front-end-swap-parts.html
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Oct 27, 2010 22:21
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Welp, the endlessly cursed SV650 strikes again. After I sorted out my front forks and have had it back and been riding it around 2 weeks, now it's not starting. It has always had a little difficulty starting, I would hear an initial turn take some effort, and then it would always slowly slide past that first turn and start just fine. Anyway, does this sound like a dying starter? I push started it just to make sure everything else electrical is fine, started right up in 2nd with me running alongside then dumping the clutch. Next on the list I was going to check the battery, but I'm really worried it might be the starter. When I push the starter button now, I hear nothing at all. No click, no sliding noises, nothing. Comedy option: Push-start it everywhere or ghetto a kick starter on there. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Oct 29, 2010 |
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Oct 29, 2010 21:01
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I know nothing about motorcycles. That being said. Do you know where the solenoid is? Sometimes if you push the starter just right the solenoid freezes if it doesn't go through its motion all the way. Take a wrench or bar or something and tap the solenoid a couple times and try restarting it.
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Oct 29, 2010 21:19
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Might as well check the battery first because it's ridiculously easy. Put a multimeter on both battery terminals and see if you get a reading around 12 volts. If so, battery should be okay. For the starter, you want to start by checking the solenoid. You can try hitting it or you can take it out and jump it manually off the battery to see if it clicks. If it does, the problem is in your starter button area. If it doesn't, time for a new one.
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Oct 29, 2010 21:23
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Battery reads good, going to trickle charge it anyway while I'm digging for this starter solenoid with my service manual.
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Oct 29, 2010 23:38
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An SV guy can correct me if I'm wrong but it's most likely under your tank, in front of your battery box.
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Oct 29, 2010 23:45
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Re: mileage, I've never gotten less than 50MPG on my 07, no matter how I ride. Last fill up was 3.3 gallons for 170 miles, 51.5MPG, and I did quite a bit of wringing it out, and about half of it was with a passenger. I've theorized that the twin plug engine update in 07 helps, but most say it was just an emissions thing.
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Oct 30, 2010 06:23
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So I don't know how but my clutch was feeling kind of wonky. It was loser than I remember. I had installed pazzo levers so I was able to push them rather than pull to see the wound cable is broken. Maybe 2 out of the 8 or so wires are snapped near the connection. How easy is it to replace a clutch cable line, and can I just buy the cable from any online store?
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Oct 31, 2010 01:28
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HClChicken posted:So I don't know how but my clutch was feeling kind of wonky. It was loser than I remember. I had installed pazzo levers so I was able to push them rather than pull to see the wound cable is broken. Maybe 2 out of the 8 or so wires are snapped near the connection. You can get an OEM cable for like $20 online. It's pretty simple to replace, at least on the naked. Someone else can chime in about how it is if you've got farings. If you've replaced the levers, then you know how to do what's probably the trickiest part. Otherwise it's just routing the cable. Remember to lube the cable before you get going, and when you're done follow the first two steps here to adjust it. Enilev fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Oct 31, 2010 |
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Oct 31, 2010 02:21
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Enilev posted:You can get an OEM cable for like $20 online. just duct tape the new cable to one end of the old one and pull it through, that saves pissing around trying to route it. this assumes that the cable you are replacing is routed correctly. Takes about 10 minutes in total to change the cable on an sv
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Oct 31, 2010 02:24
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Enilev posted:You can get an OEM cable for like $20 online. Umm, the cable is in a teflon coated sheath right? So it doesn't need to be lubed? I didn't on my 2nd gen at least.
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Oct 31, 2010 23:39
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Coredump posted:Umm, the cable is in a teflon coated sheath right? So it doesn't need to be lubed? I didn't on my 2nd gen at least. You should still lube all control cables no matter what moon-coating they claim is on the inner line. You'd be surprised what a difference it makes having freshly lubed and cleaned cables versus old grimy ones. Chances are you'll be ok not lubing it frequently but cleaning them and lubing them every couple hundred miles or whatever won't hurt. At the least, clean them when you change your oil or something.
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Oct 31, 2010 23:44
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Weinertron posted:Battery reads good, going to trickle charge it anyway while I'm digging for this starter solenoid with my service manual. It's likely your rectifier going out, this is a pretty common issue on the SV's. You'll need to test your outputs from the rectifier, and see what you get to identify it.
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Nov 1, 2010 01:25
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NipplesTheCat posted:It's likely your rectifier going out, this is a pretty common issue on the SV's. You'll need to test your outputs from the rectifier, and see what you get to identify it. I'm having a similar problem, although the starter solenoid seems fine. The battery is 10 years old, so I imagine it's time to replace it. Is the following test from the factory service manual sufficient to confirm that the r/r is functioning properly?  I've been reading SVrider, and D'Ecosse's R/R Wiring Mod seems like a reasonable upgrade, but at this point I'm hoping it's enough to pop in a new battery, test the r/r, and squeeze in as much riding as I can before the snow and ice hit. Batterywise is there a superior alternative to the OEM Yuasa YT12A-BS?
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Nov 1, 2010 04:59
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You're better off testing things under working conditions...verify that you get 70v AC off of the 3 yellow stator wires when compared to one another and the bike reved to 5k, and that you're not getting much bleedover if you compare any of the wires to engine ground. If you're getting ~70v AC off of the stator wires, and the wiring from the stator to the R/R -> battery is intact, and you're not getting ~14v DC at the battery when you rev the bike to 5k, your R/R needs to be replaced. The Yuasa is pretty much the best battery brand on the market. I wouldn't recommend anything else.
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Nov 1, 2010 05:43
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That's really helpful. Thank you.
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Nov 1, 2010 05:55
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Loucks posted:That's really helpful. Thank you. No problem, I've banged out that post enough times now that I'm always concerned that I missed something important or didn't get it across clearly. Post up if you have any additional questions or discover something weird when you test your system.
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Nov 1, 2010 06:22
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This pdf should be stickied at the top of the forum http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf I replaced my r/r 4 times on my sv (all with equally poo poo older models pulled from scrapped bikes because i was broke) until i bought one of those Shindengen FH012AA MOSFET R/Rs from http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm Have had no problem with anything electrical since.
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Nov 2, 2010 15:45
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http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/1986417014.html What do you guys think of the price?
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Nov 2, 2010 18:31
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Russian Bear posted:http://stlouis.craigslist.org/mcy/1986417014.html I'd want to negotiate down pretty far considering I've seen good condition, clean title bikes for sale in CA for 1500$, with no mechanical flaws. Of course, those are the really good deals, but that could be the starter motor or it could be the starter sprag, one is an easy swap, the other requires some work. But I'm also completely unwilling to commit unless I get a killer deal.
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Nov 2, 2010 18:44
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What's the general consensus on sv650 as first bike? Seems like I read that it's at the top end of starter bikes. Someone in the "new to riding" thread recommended it because I'm a tall as mofo(6'4 34.5" inseam and i don't know how much weight plays into thing but 210lb) I'll be taking the MSF soon, but i'm keeping my eye on craigslist in the mean time. So am I crazy? Should I just stick to ninjas/GS recommendation?
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Nov 6, 2010 03:25
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I thought I'd just leave these here for y'all - a gift from the Supermoto and KLR threads...  
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Nov 6, 2010 04:21
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echomadman posted:I replaced my r/r 4 times on my sv (all with equally poo poo older models pulled from scrapped bikes because i was broke) until i bought one of those Shindengen FH012AA MOSFET R/Rs from http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm Did you have to rig up some sort of mounting solution for the FH012AA? Those kits look great, but if it's a hassle to mount or wouldn't easily fit under the tail plastic on my 1st gen S I'd rather keep looking for a semi-reasonably priced FH008. Russian Bear, I've only ridden for half a season now, but I love my SV650S. Don't give into the urge to ride like an overconfident prick and you'll do just fine. edit: I didn't buy a supermoto because I knew I'd ride it like a hooligan and kill myself. 
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Nov 6, 2010 05:08
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Russian Bear posted:What's the general consensus on sv650 as first bike? Seems like I read that it's at the top end of starter bikes. Someone in the "new to riding" thread recommended it because I'm a tall as mofo(6'4 34.5" inseam and i don't know how much weight plays into thing but 210lb) I'll be taking the MSF soon, but i'm keeping my eye on craigslist in the mean time. So am I crazy? Should I just stick to ninjas/GS recommendation? It wouldn't be crazy, but if you can start on something smaller you'll have an easier time becoming comfortable. I bought an sv650 after only a thousand or so miles on a friend's beater he lent me. The SV is still too much bike for me, but I really enjoy growing into it. If I wasn't lucky enough to have a friend with a beater I would have bought the SV right away.
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Nov 8, 2010 00:03
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Russian Bear posted:What's the general consensus on sv650 as first bike? Seems like I read that it's at the top end of starter bikes. Someone in the "new to riding" thread recommended it because I'm a tall as mofo(6'4 34.5" inseam and i don't know how much weight plays into thing but 210lb) I'll be taking the MSF soon, but i'm keeping my eye on craigslist in the mean time. So am I crazy? Should I just stick to ninjas/GS recommendation? I bought my SV650 as a first bike and I couldn't be happier on it. All it takes is some self control + attention while riding and you'll be fine. This is coming from the guy who's 05' STi had the shift light set at 3.5k for maximum fuel efficiency though... so yeah.
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Nov 8, 2010 19:29
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