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Splizwarf posted:To be fair, the job doesn't look hard per se, or painful, just really time consuming. I'd do it at the drop of a hat but I have a lot of free time thanks to being almost out of work. Dude, if I had the money, I'd fly you out to NM to work on all the small things on my V70. They are things I want to get fixed, but not so important that I need to have them addressed immediately so I've been putting it off for things like rent..
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Oct 16, 2010 07:10
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I'm redoing the wiring harness right now in my car, actually. I'm wondering if it's worth completely disassembling the dash and replacing the heater core...? Also: What's your guys' opinions on keeping stock AC from my 1984 240Ti? The accessory brackets line up for my engine swap but the poo poo is so weak that it's almost worth it to get rid of it and save myself 80 or so pounds of garbage in my engine bay. I can always salvage the bracket which connects to the power steering pump anyway. Plus, I live in Southern California. When will I ever need A/C? Seriously. Which brings me to... What's the safest way to remove the A/C from the car? I'm assuming the lines are pressurized with R-12 or whatever. I'm thinking a leather jacket and gloves, welding mask, and bolt cutters since I don't have the proper size of wrench to let them bleed at the awkwardly-placed nuts on the hydraulic lines...
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Oct 18, 2010 19:35
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AC is totally overrated. My black '85 has been SoCal since 2001 and hasn't had AC since well before that and it's just fine as long as you can keep moving... True RWD Volvo guys can hand-crank down all 4 windows without taking their eyes off the road. I'm guessing your 1984's compressor lines aren't going to have a whole lot of pressure (or any freon at all probably) so go to town! (Note: no actual knowledge of AC/freon/compressor lines went into this recommendation)
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Oct 18, 2010 19:53
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If you want to be neat & steady there should be shraeder valve somewhere accessible. Welding glove, slotted screwdriver to screw the pin out. This may kill some Polar Bears however, I don't know what refrigerant you have. Alternatively (& the one I'd use) just maul a refrigerant line with some pliers.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:18
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All refrigerant kills polar bears.  Be warned that refrigerant cools off when it expands, so personal protection is really important. For the love of gently caress put on some safety glasses. Also don't do it if it's real windy, refrigerant will make a fine mist that gets on everything downwind for a couple hundred feet.
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Oct 18, 2010 20:55
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Hey Brickgoons! Sorry I've been AWOL but I've been working 60 hour work weeks and busy getting engaged up in da UP. Those have taken away from car time and resources. I've finally got the Rollercoaster's (the '84 245 GLT) fuel mixture and idle just where I want it to be. After doing that I killed my clutch so that had to get replaced. I paid the idiot tax and just had it done a shop. A new clutch really gives this car back some life. It did this;  Which was exciting. No more of that because I don't want to kill a second clutch. The suspension is still woeful but that will a spring project! What I want to do in the short term is get a third row seat and winterise it. Mad props to Lloyd, Daion, and Xovaan on their projects! Did any IN, OH, MI goons go to the Volvos at the Gilmore in August? I almost went but I really had to save my money (engagement and UP vacation came first).
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Oct 19, 2010 06:12
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Propane/Isopropane won't. PPE is what the welding glove is for, but I admit safety glasses would be a good idea.
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Oct 19, 2010 06:14
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I learned how to use a scope today! Turns out my ignition coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, injectors, and MAF are all in great shape! On the other hand on the way I found out that my block coolant sensor has no plug, just the sleeves from the plug slid onto the pins in the socket. Fffffff it doesn't look very... not-scary. And then I remembered it's my own fault because the plug melted pretty bad but I had to be at work RIGHT NOW so I shucked the hosed bits and told myself I'd deal with it tomorrow, about... a year ago? On an '89 NA 740, what does the radiator coolant temp sensor (above the upper line of the trans oil cooler) control? I have a mechanical fan, and the sensor is an open/closed type like I'd expect to find running an electric fan; as far as I know, the block temp sensor (a rheostat type) runs the instrument panel temp gauge. On some junkyard bricks (240, 740, 940), I found a plug instead of a sensor, but there didn't seem to be an easy rhyme or reason to it; some had a plug and an electrical fan, some had a sensor but a mechanical fan. Some just didn't have a hole there, or (in the case of the Bertone 780) a huge fuckoff metal plug that looks like a socket thumbwheel. My 740ti has a plug and an electrical fan but the PO bullshit work on that car means I can't trust anything to be right; I have no idea where that fan gets instructions from. God?  Also, I found half a tool in the junkyard, it has two jumper clips and a set of pins that matches my OBD-I plugs, with a connection I don't recognize on the other side; it's got Volvo written all over it like it's a factory tool. Pic tomorrow. Crispulus posted:a third row seat I can (probably) make this happen tomorrow if you want to pay shipping and whatever the u-pull-it wants for it. What color? You really should get PMs. Cakefool posted:Alternatively (& the one I'd use) just maul a refrigerant line with some pliers. Protip I'd forgotten: when you go to maul, do the long straight line under the front of the car; pull it downward so when it opens the spray is aimed about as well out of your engine bay as you can get. Don't be under the car when this happens. Ask me why! You got me on the propane thing, I went to look it up and have a good internet argument and discovered that propane is remarkable.
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Oct 19, 2010 06:54
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My wife wrecked her rabbit, so she's been driving my 240. Within 3 days, the odometer, trip counter and the fuel gauge all stopped working. I told her she'd better keep gas in it until I can get at least one of the two fixed. I already have a new gear for the odometer, so hopefully that will fix that problem so she can at least figure out how much gas she has in the tank. I hope her car gets out of the shop quick. In a little more than a week driving the Volvo she's already somehow broken a clip and bent a door trim piece, and all of a sudden the sunroof doesn't want to close without a ton of force. It's not that she's normally this destructive, but it just seems like she's having a string of bad luck and it's majorly effecting my wallet. I'd let her drive my truck, but I don't need all three of our vehicles hosed up.
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Oct 22, 2010 00:04
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empty baggie posted:I'd let her drive my truck, but I don't need all three of our vehicles hosed up.  The sunroof at least should be an easy fix.
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Oct 22, 2010 01:21
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I hope. I haven't had a chance to really look at it, but it doesn't seem like there's anything in the tracks. It's fine until about 2 or 3 inches, and then it gets really stiff. She couldn't close it, and I have had to put so much force on it that I've been afraid I'm going to break the handle, but it does eventually seal.
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Oct 22, 2010 16:09
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Sounds like there's a piece of poo poo in the gears. Take the cover off the winding mechanism and run back and forth while you watch it. While you're in there, hit everything with white lithium grease, tracks included (after you figure out the problem, I mean). Isn't two or three inches where it starts to move up/down instead of just forward/back? Maybe one of the arms is bent.
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Oct 22, 2010 16:20
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82Daion posted:The heater core in my 245 must be going out Late but sorry to hear that. Its my most feared malfunction based on what I've heard  I had new rear shocks, and more importantly, new rear stay bay bushings installed on my 244. I went with the $25 KYB shocks and so far, I wouldn't want anything stiffer. The results were transformative! It is like a new car. Braking, handling and acceleration are vastly improved and a couple of funny noises (a chirp and a clunk upon gear engagement) are gone. I am embarrassed to admit how happy 4 bushings have made me. I am such a dork. What are peoples opinions of the 160's? I have a line on a 1969 164. I almost hope it has been sold. I don't really need it and there are cooler old Volvos but I would have a hard time passing it up if its still available.
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Oct 22, 2010 17:00
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ch1mp posted:What are peoples opinions of the 160's? I have a line on a 1969 164. I almost hope it has been sold. I don't really need it and there are cooler old Volvos but I would have a hard time passing it up if its still available. All I know is that if I ever run out of projects or have too much money to spend, I'm buying a 164 and turning it into a 2 door with a monster turbo whiteblock 6. They're really cool, just not my #1 pick.
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Oct 22, 2010 18:28
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Splizwarf posted:Sounds like there's a piece of poo poo in the gears. Take the cover off the winding mechanism and run back and forth while you watch it. While you're in there, hit everything with white lithium grease, tracks included (after you figure out the problem, I mean). Yeah, I think it is where it starts to go up/down. I'm planning on working on it tomorrow while I'm off. We'll see how it goes. It was smooth as butter before.
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Oct 22, 2010 21:50
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ch1mp posted:L I have a '73 164E and it is a head turner but with the automatic it is a bit boring to drive. Lloyd is right, turbo white block with the m90 tranny is the answer to all it's problems. Plus, if you pull that out of a 960 it might yield IRS. But I don't know what to think about making it a 162... I don't know if I should sell it or keep it. I'm toying with selling it but ahhh, I dunno.
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Oct 22, 2010 21:58
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Crispulus posted:I have a '73 164E and it is a head turner but with the automatic it is a bit boring to drive. Any automotive quirks/nightmares with these?
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Oct 22, 2010 22:08
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ch1mp posted:Any automotive quirks/nightmares with these? Finding parts. It is sorta rare. There is very little support for it. They are really neat but horrible fuel economy. They had three engine options. b30S - carb'd from 69-71, b30E - 71, and the b30F -72-75. They 69 would be carbed and you could play with that more. the b30E was a high compression model that actually got really decent HP for the time. the b30F was low compression to comply with stupid emissions.
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Oct 22, 2010 22:54
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How unlikely is it I will ever be able to find a 240 wagon with the inline 6 diesel? I understand they were sold from 79-84 but I can't find any number on how many were actually sold in the US. I've been casually looking for a couple years but never see these things for sale. I'm not sure if they didn't sell many, if people just don't sell them or if they all broke down and now liter junk yards across the nation. I would prefer it have the manual, but depending on the shape and price I might have to settle for whatever I can find.
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Oct 24, 2010 14:02
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tonedef131 posted:How unlikely is it I will ever be able to find a 240 wagon with the inline 6 diesel? I understand they were sold from 79-84 but I can't find any number on how many were actually sold in the US. I've been casually looking for a couple years but never see these things for sale. I'm not sure if they didn't sell many, if people just don't sell them or if they all broke down and now liter junk yards across the nation. I would prefer it have the manual, but depending on the shape and price I might have to settle for whatever I can find. The diesels were reportedly awful and not that prevalent. I think they all broke down by now.
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Oct 24, 2010 16:59
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As I understand it, the I6 diesel's 6th cylinder didn't get enough oil when the engine was cold, so if the car did a lot of highway miles the engine was good times but if it was just small trips the engine gradually wrecked itself. I want one too, one of the diesel 740s. I missed the only one I've ever seen on Craigslist by 2 hours.
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Oct 24, 2010 18:27
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I went to a scrappers down Oxford way yesterday with my little brother, looking for misc. plastic poo poo and working wing mirrors for my V70, there was 1 V70, stripped bare, 2 9xx, nearly complete, uncountable 440s, most in nearly perfect condition. Tragedy of the day, an absolutely mint 360 GLT, black with gold pinstripe, 102,000 miles, stripey black & white interior. Bar the gaffa-taped sunroof it was immaculate. I already have too many cars, I don't need the hassle of re-regging a 4th.
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Oct 24, 2010 20:01
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Splizwarf posted:As I understand it, the I6 diesel's 6th cylinder didn't get enough oil when the engine was cold, so if the car did a lot of highway miles the engine was good times but if it was just small trips the engine gradually wrecked itself. Yep. They're all but gone, I've converted two from diesel to gas myself, my dad's other mechanics took care of 3 or 4 more over the years. The motors were rare, horribly expensive to fix, and it was just a matter of swapping fuel system and a very simple wiring harness swap to convert it back to gas, so that's what most people did. Considering how plentiful and reliable the 4 cyl drivetrains are, paying a shop to get a donor car and convert it was cheaper than repairing the diesel. Even at shop rates.
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Oct 25, 2010 06:32
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Thanks for everyone contributing to this thread, I have learned a lot of good info in the past couple of hours. I went to look at this 850 wagon today: http://www.cars.com/go/search/detai...05&aff=national It seemed in decent condition, and everything that was supposed to work worked. I noticed that there was a hose disconnected from what I assume is the air filter box, circled below. It was just kind of hanging there with a zip tie around it, and based on the pictures in the ad it was a recent disconnection. What is it, and if it gets hooked back up will everything be OK? Anything I should look out for that I can easily check? SuitcasePimp fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Oct 26, 2010 |
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Oct 26, 2010 23:00
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SuitcasePimp posted:Thanks for everyone contributing to this thread, I have learned a lot of good info in the past couple of hours. I went to look at this 850 wagon today: According to the ad it had the timing belt changed at 60k (which they seem proud of) and the car has almost 140k on it? I think it's due for another one right away, someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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Oct 27, 2010 00:36
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Supposed to be every 70k.... so yah, past due...
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Oct 27, 2010 01:17
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Oxphocker posted:Supposed to be every 70k.... so yah, past due... Yeah, that is somewhat lame and I would expect to have the timing belt and water pump changed asap as mentioned earlier in the thread.
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Oct 27, 2010 02:47
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SuitcasePimp posted:What is it, and if it gets hooked back up will everything be OK? Anything I should look out for that I can easily check? Well, it's after the filter, so it definitely shouldn't be open to the atmosphere, but it's before the MAF so it's not going to affect engine performance as far as I can tell. Other than that, all I can say is it's some sort of very low vacuum breather, it probably goes to the charcoal canister or something. If you get an emissions related CEL immediately after purchasing it, that's probably it.
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Oct 27, 2010 06:52
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SuitcasePimp posted:Thanks for everyone contributing to this thread, I have learned a lot of good info in the past couple of hours. I went to look at this 850 wagon today: This hose leads down to the Air Pump under the battery tray. The air pump is a common failure point on 1996-1997 850's because the valve that separates water out from the exhaust stream eventually fails and water from the exhaust fills up the air pump. Earlier 1993-1995 850's don't have air pumps at all.
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Oct 27, 2010 06:59
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I'm posting, so it's silly question time again: 99 V70, how's my car know when the driver's door is shut? Sometimes I have to slam it twice before the interior lights go out. What I mean is, where/what type of sensor is used?
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Oct 30, 2010 19:25
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Cakefool posted:I'm posting, so it's silly question time again: Not sure and low on time but I can tell you on the 700/900s there's a pushbutton sensor in the doorframe below the hinge. There's a single hot wire leading to it inside the doorframe and it grounds to the frame through the bolt that holds it in; the circuit is complete when the button is popped out. Hopefully you can work out what's going on just by loving around with it.
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Oct 31, 2010 05:39
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Cakefool posted:I'm posting, so it's silly question time again: It should be built into the catch on the door, I'm not exactly sure how it works but you can shut the lights off by using a screwdriver to latch it with the door open. Maybe play around with that, but to really fix it you're going to have to get inside the door. Fortunately these door panels are not hard to remove.
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Nov 1, 2010 05:22
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Damnit, I got a speeding ticket. I thought these cars were invisible.
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Nov 1, 2010 08:27
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LloydDobler posted:It should be built into the catch on the door, I'm not exactly sure how it works but you can shut the lights off by using a screwdriver to latch it with the door open. Maybe play around with that, but to really fix it you're going to have to get inside the door. Fortunately these door panels are not hard to remove. That makes 5 not-that-important things in the one door I need to fix, looks like I'll have to give in and open it.
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Nov 1, 2010 21:30
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Cakefool posted:That makes 5 not-that-important things in the one door I need to fix, looks like I'll have to give in and open it. God Dammit Pie, cut in fifths, served with snapped plastic tabs in a mild bitter sauce and a knuckle blood garnish.
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Nov 2, 2010 06:00
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NOW THAT'S GOOD EATIN'!
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Nov 2, 2010 06:41
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Crispulus posted:Damnit, I got a speeding ticket. I thought these cars were invisible. How fast were you going? And only silver ones are. How do I remove the welds from the lower sheet metal piece that is adjacent to the slam panel? Mini sledge and a flathead screwdriver?
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Nov 2, 2010 23:49
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Xovaan posted:How fast were you going? And only silver ones are. I have two speeding tickets and one turn on red in the past two years, all in my silver 850.
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Nov 3, 2010 00:07
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All of the speeding tickets I've ever gotten have been in 240's.
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Nov 3, 2010 02:05
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 It's driving! Just got polished and it looks great, the only thing left to get off the body are some weird mineral deposits on the back that come from it sitting in a garage with a dripping roof, but those should come off with some solvent. Other than that, needs a new air intake valve and most of the rubber hoses need to be replaced, but it's fantastic to see it working after all these years of it being completely neglected.
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Nov 3, 2010 05:47
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