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Kibblesnbits posted:Yeah. Hey man, sorry for the late reply; I didn't think to check. I'm wondering if that's precisely the issue, though I'm not sure how to check. The sound thing in my control panel claims it's in stereo but it's clearly lying. If it helps, I've tried switching the L and R cords around while music was playing. Both speakers worked but only while inserted into the left output. I suppose that means there was a mono signal or one of the plugs is about to kick the bucket. fake edit: I tried again. Both speakers work, regardless of whether I switch them around or not.
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Oct 26, 2010 00:59
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So I setup 7.1 today and I've noticed that when I'm playing ps3 and a game that isn't specifically 7.1 audio i.e anything listed in this thread as 5.1: http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/PlayStation-Lounge/7-1-Surround-Sound-Game-Titles/m-p/38092572 nothing comes out of the rear surrounds. I also notice in 360 I hear zilch out of the rear surrounds. Is there a mode I can put my receiver in to do some sort of maths to attempt something with them? It's a Denon AVR-2310CI for reference.
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Oct 26, 2010 01:24
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flyboi posted:So I setup 7.1 today and I've noticed that when I'm playing ps3 and a game that isn't specifically 7.1 audio i.e anything listed in this thread as 5.1: http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/PlayStation-Lounge/7-1-Surround-Sound-Game-Titles/m-p/38092572 You can try a "ProLogic" mode, i.e. matrixed surround. It's the old fashioned way we used to get surround out of VHS (and the Wii) with only two discrete channels of audio. I'm not a fan, but it'll make some noise.
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Oct 26, 2010 05:53
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I thought 7.1 was going to be cool but nothing uses it 
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Oct 26, 2010 14:50
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flyboi posted:I thought 7.1 was going to be cool but nothing uses it
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Oct 26, 2010 21:29
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I'm still figuring out wire routing for the 22.2 channel surround system to go with my next UHDTV display.
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Oct 26, 2010 21:50
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flyboi posted:I thought 7.1 was going to be cool but nothing uses it Uncharted!
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Oct 26, 2010 23:06
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flyboi posted:I thought 7.1 was going to be cool but nothing uses it I was considering 7.1 with some in-ceiling speakers for the side channels, but the lack of content plus what a massive pain in the rear end it would be to install with one side of the vaulted ceiling jutting up against the roof line just doesn't make it worthwhile.
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Oct 27, 2010 15:47
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7.1 really only becomes worthwhile in long rooms, especially with multiple rows of seating, where matrixing a left and right surround out of 5.1 content is actually helpful for coverage.
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Oct 27, 2010 16:10
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I've got computer speakers, and the way they connect is like this. 3 wires (they're like headphone wires), one is black, another green, another orange connect from the subwoofer, to the sound card on the computer. Is there a way to convert these three wires, to just one optical? Here is what they look like: e: They're the ones on the left.
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Oct 29, 2010 11:17
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Yakattak posted:Is there a way to convert these three wires, to just one optical?
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Oct 29, 2010 16:59
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Been playing with an old (80's, solid state) Kenwood Pre-Amp and Amp and it works for the most part but one or both of the following will happen: - the left channel goes out, a light bump/tap to the amp usually fixes this. - there is a REALLY loud buzzing sound that is independent of the pre-amp volume. Banging it will typically solve the problem temporarily, but it will eventually happen again. Sometimes the buzzing will creep. It will start with a low buzz that mere finger contact will alleviate. That will generally escalate to the louder buzz at some point. The buzzing sound is really my only concern which is an issue with the amp and not the pre-amp. I have cleaned and deoxy'd the amp. I'd like to fix the problem myself as the amp is old and probably not worth the money for repair but good enough I really want to fix it. Any ideas ? For reference, it is a KM-205 Stereo Amplifier. 150wx2.
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Nov 1, 2010 03:00
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Bad insulation somewhere causes the buzzing, bad connection the channel going out. It also sounds like the insulation problem leaks to the casing somehow, if your finger makes it worse. I'd check all the wiring inside the amp for starters, especially everything that has to do with the left channel.
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Nov 1, 2010 03:09
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Hob_Gadling posted:Bad insulation somewhere causes the buzzing, bad connection the channel going out. It also sounds like the insulation problem leaks to the casing somehow, if your finger makes it worse. I'd check all the wiring inside the amp for starters, especially everything that has to do with the left channel. The finger contact makes the buzzing stop, not make it worse. I guess I'll break out the magnifying glass and stencil burner to check for loose connections. How do you suggest I deal with insulation ?
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Nov 1, 2010 04:26
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If it's bad insulation, see if you can duct tape it. Corroded wires or connectors and you might have to change something. Tighten up loose things. One thing I'd check closely is the left speaker connector. It might be broken, split or something like that.
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Nov 1, 2010 10:26
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Sounds like some cold solder joints are becoming evident. Especially since the percussive maintenance works. Also there's a ground issue if touching the chassis fixes the hum, which I assume is a low hum possibly 60 hz?
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Nov 1, 2010 11:44
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At least all the receivers are 7.1 standard so maybe the format will become more adopted over time. After playing some 7.1 mixed games on my ps3 it is pretty cool and my Denon is pretty good at matrixing the 5.1 to 7.1 for more environment.
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Nov 1, 2010 14:28
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I bought an Asrock ION 330HT to use as a HTPC, but when I plug the HDMI cable in my reciever, I get a lot of noise in my speakers. This is probably because of an earthing problem in the asrock box. Is there a noise filter available for HDMI cables?
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Nov 1, 2010 19:35
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My sub blew out, and I'm looking to get a replacement. I have a very small gaming/working room, so a really big sub seems like overkill. That said, after looking around a bit, I found what looked like a good 60w Polk http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000P0528K And then I find I can get a 300w for almost the same price http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000092TT0 So my question would be - is the 300w too much sub for my room? It seems silly not to get it given the price, but if I'm going to simply overwhelm my senses and annoy the neighbors, it'd probably be a bad idea (good thick brick walls, so that's never been an issue before, but still)
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Nov 2, 2010 14:37
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I'd get the 12" sub. Just because it's bigger doesn't mean you have to play it louder. It's not about volume, it's about quality of sound.
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Nov 2, 2010 15:04
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Sniep posted:Sounds like some cold solder joints are becoming evident. Especially since the percussive maintenance works. Also there's a ground issue if touching the chassis fixes the hum, which I assume is a low hum possibly 60 hz? As I'm using this as a headphone amp, its hard to saw how low, and it seems to cover a range of frequencies, but it is definitely as low as 60z. The hum can change frequencies depending on contact. Upon further inspection, the buzzing is a problem with the plate attached by screws underneath the 2 large capacitors. It has an electrical warning (lightning bolt), and it's the only separate plate on the bottom of the amp. If i press on the plate on the areas not screwed on, the buzzing will generally stop. I have to press pretty hard - finger contact does not cease the problem. I put something underneath the plate to press up on the bracket and it does the trick. I guess the permanent solution is to drill another hole in the bracket on the two spots where contact isn't good. Duct tape doesn't do a thing. I guess I don't really understand how grounding works. Why would contact at these spots make such a huge difference ? Edit: Its not contact on the sides. There is a prong that screws into the bracket in two places directly in the middle. Pressing hard on this makes the buzzing stop. Not really sure what to do now. edit 2: I took the bracket off completely for now. I pulled on the prong pretty hard and havent had any trouble since. Maybe a loose connection or bad solder thats close to the bracket ? proton fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Nov 3, 2010 |
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Nov 2, 2010 22:24
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Has anyone bought a cheap tripath amp off of ebay? I'm looking into getting soemthing like this for my bedroom. Most of the pre-built ones use the TA2020 or TA2024C. Of course because it's ebay prices range from $30-300. Is there a good place to do some research? I was looking at getting this but it's never in stock and if I can save $50 I wouldn't mind.
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Nov 2, 2010 22:49
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qirex posted:Has anyone bought a cheap tripath amp off of ebay? I'm looking into getting soemthing like this for my bedroom. Most of the pre-built ones use the TA2020 or TA2024C. Of course because it's ebay prices range from $30-300. Is there a good place to do some research? I was looking at getting this but it's never in stock and if I can save $50 I wouldn't mind. I can't speak for the random eBay units specifically, (although they're almost all built right off Tripath's spec sheets, so they're not really rocket science) but I can tell you one thing about T-amps in general: Reviewers who talk about their low power aren't exaggerating. You better have efficient speakers, and you better be sitting close to them in a small room. I had a pricey Sonic Impact (?) t-amp for about 15 minutes before it went back in the box. Even setup in a near-field arrangement, it couldn't drive my 88dB/watt bookshelf speakers to above background music levels.
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Nov 2, 2010 23:26
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The new generation of tripath amps are more powerful than the T-amps of a couple years ago. I'd definitely top out one of those $15 ones, but what about the $50 ones? $100? The ones for sale in the US now like those little $200 Nuforces are generally TK2040s or TK2050s which are around $60 barebones [no housing or power supply which are things I kind of need]. My speakers are 90dB/watt so the 30WPC at 4 ohms the "100 watt" versions put out at listenable THD levels should be more than enough.
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Nov 2, 2010 23:51
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Quick question I know this is kind of a PC related question. But I have a set of Klipsch Promedia 5.1 THX Ultras and Windows 7 give an option to select "Full range speakers or not" Should I have this checked? And then the promedia will figure it out on there on or what? 
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Nov 4, 2010 12:15
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Bum the Sad posted:Quick question I know this is kind of a PC related question. But I have a set of Klipsch Promedia 5.1 THX Ultras and Windows 7 give an option to select "Full range speakers or not" Should I have this checked? No. Full range speakers means speakers that can replicate sounds from 20 to 20000 hertz. Your speakers should most likely be set up so that subwoofer plays all sounds from 20 to 80 Hz and satellites play notes from 80 up. Check the documentation for appropriate cutoff point.
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Nov 4, 2010 15:04
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Hob_Gadling posted:No. Full range speakers means speakers that can replicate sounds from 20 to 20000 hertz. Your speakers should most likely be set up so that subwoofer plays all sounds from 20 to 80 Hz and satellites play notes from 80 up. Check the documentation for appropriate cutoff point. I would think that, since it's a computer speaker setup, the unit itself would do all the crossover work, and you could leave the Windows setting at full range. You can try both ways and use whichever one sounds better to you.
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Nov 5, 2010 21:20
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So, me and my mom are trying to get my dad a surround sound system for Christmas, but I don't know enough about surround sound systems to be useful in picking a good set. The budget max is between 550$ and 600$. Dad plays video games (Playstation if that affects anything), watches movies, and listens to music all the time. The room it would be put in is about 14' by 21'. Any suggestions on what to look at?
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Nov 6, 2010 04:27
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Bremma posted:So, me and my mom are trying to get my dad a surround sound system for Christmas, but I don't know enough about surround sound systems to be useful in picking a good set. The baseline set is roughly this Onkyo 7.1 set. If you can find a better deal for the money go for it. If you want to pick the speakers and receiver separately the rough idea is to spend 60% of budget on speakers and the rest on receiver, wires and so on.
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Nov 6, 2010 06:06
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Thanks for the tip! I'll start looking around and see what I can find. If I have any more questions, I'll let ya'll know.
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Nov 6, 2010 13:21
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Sorry in advance if this has been covered but I'm looking to get the best bang for my buck on a stereo system to listen to music. I've got about $600 and was thinking of snagging 2 Polk Audio Monitor70's http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/products/recent/monitor70/ For a reciever I was looking at the Onkyo TX-8255 http://www.onkyousa.com/model.cfm?m=TX-8255&class=Receiver&p=i Is this a respectable setup or am I missing something? Also if anyone can point me to a site or two to learn exactly what I should be paying attention to or where I should look online to purchase this stuff that would be fantastic as well. I checked out The speaker guide wiki that Shroom Soup posted but unfortunately it doesn't have recommendations on stereo receivers or floor standing speakers. For the moment all I have to go on is newegg and what I've gleaned from scanning this forum.
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Nov 7, 2010 22:38
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Wastid posted:Sorry in advance if this has been covered but I'm looking to get the best bang for my buck on a stereo system to listen to music. I've got about $600 Visit a local stereo shop where you can listen to systems. If you're set on online ordering, I'd point you to Monitor speakers to go with your receiver. Other possibles are Klipsch (you should definitely listen to Klipsch before ordering, they have a distinct sound that divides people) and Paradigm. Paradigms are hard to locate online but I think they're worth a visit to dealer near you. I'd like to suggest B&W speakers but I'm not sure they have anything suitable within the budget. If you get the chance listen to them anyway. All speakers recommended are suited for my tastes in music. I don't like heavy bass so if that's your thing you might want to check other alternatives. For receiver I suggest you also check out Denon and Marantz. Most of your budget should go towards speakers anyway, around $200 is a proper budget for the receiver. As far as I can tell, the Onkyo unit you looked up is also decent.
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Nov 8, 2010 03:57
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Wastid posted:Sorry in advance if this has been covered but I'm looking to get the best bang for my buck on a stereo system to listen to music. I've got about $600 and was thinking of snagging 2 Polk Audio Monitor70's I just picked up a pair of Aperion Audio's 5B bookshelf speakers at their warehouse sale and they're proving to be an incredible value. They sound phenomenal and are a beautiful real cherry veneer (they also come in high gloss piano black). They offer free shipping and a 30 day risk free audition where they'll pay for return shipping if you aren't content. The 4B's would be in your price range but I think the 5B's are the sweet spot. You can also inquire about A-stock (open box) and B-stock (light scratches). which come at a decent discount. http://www.aperionaudio.com
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Nov 8, 2010 04:49
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Are there any decent cheap subwoofers? $100 or less?
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Nov 9, 2010 21:50
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Deadpan Science posted:Are there any decent cheap subwoofers? $100 or less? no
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Nov 9, 2010 22:18
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I'd probably say $200 is about the bottom for new stuff but you could always check craigslist. Because they're so heavy people don't really sell used ones on eBay or Audiogon unless they're really high end.
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Nov 9, 2010 23:19
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Deadpan Science posted:Are there any decent cheap subwoofers? $100 or less? The entry level Dayton subs are alright for the money, I notice parts express has some on sale. Here is the Sub-80 for $79
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Nov 10, 2010 04:28
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My HTIB dvd player/receiver died(Panasonic SB-WA720) and it looks like the subwoofer has some kind of nonstandard connection, which is preventing me from just plugging it in to a new receiver. 
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Nov 10, 2010 05:09
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Deadpan Science posted:My HTIB dvd player/receiver died(Panasonic SB-WA720) and it looks like the subwoofer has some kind of nonstandard connection, which is preventing me from just plugging it in to a new receiver. That's not a question.
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Nov 10, 2010 05:21
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eddiewalker posted:That's not a question. Sorry. That's why I was looking for a cheap replacement, unless there's some way to rectify the situation with an adapter of some kind. Do those exist? How feasible is it to do some tinkering and make a proper output? Seems like not very...
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Nov 10, 2010 06:18
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