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What does it mean when my driver's side cam ticks line up perfect, like this:  But my passenger side cam ticks look like this: Intake:  Exhaust:  The cams are locked together with the VW German Engineered Cam Locking Bar and this is what they look like with the valve covers off. So what does that mean for my timing? Also, which piston is up (firing) at TDC in the 2.7T? I've heard it's 3, and it's not actually totally completely up at TDC. Is this right, cause it sounds weird to me...
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Oct 27, 2010 02:44
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:The problem with R32s getting in accidents though is even if its a really bad one they still repair them because of the high book value. Like Dropshadow said, walk away from that one. Thanks for the info. I'm probably not going to get the one from the dealer. If I did, I could just as well get a 330i ZHP (the car of my heart), or, I suppose I should wait about 6-9 months, look to see if a 2012 R32 is coming out, and possibly get the 2007-08 R32 (which is a sexy looking car) That being said, i found this little gem on craigslist: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/2027759205.html Other than the high mileage, it sounds like there must be something seriously wrong with the car.... Shadowhand00 fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Oct 27, 2010 |
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Oct 27, 2010 17:14
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Shadowhand00 posted:That being said, i found this little gem on craigslist: That HAS to be a scam or it doesn't have an engine or something.
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Oct 27, 2010 19:32
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So I borrowed a friends HEX-USB+CAN adapter to turn off my DRLs. Turns out it's easier than I had thought and doesn't require VCDS. However, my friend has an Audi A4 B7 and wants to adjust the headlights. I got the lights to move around a bit but besides that I had no luck adjusting them. According to this, i use VCDS to put the lights in ready state than use the manual adjustments. If it just manually adjusts, do I really need VCDS at all?
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Oct 28, 2010 00:12
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Neon Machete posted:Also, which piston is up (firing) at TDC in the 2.7T? I've heard it's 3, and it's not actually totally completely up at TDC. Is this right, cause it sounds weird to me... TDC means top dead center, which could apply to any piston and just means the piston is as far away from the crank as it gets (and obviously on the compression stroke in a four stroke engine). In the context of timing TDC almost always refers to the #1 cylinder.
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Oct 28, 2010 06:52
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Shadowhand00 posted:I found a 2004 R32 at the dealer. The problem is its slightly steep going for 15888. Do you guys think I would have room for negotiation? Its in fairly good condition - been in 2 accidents. If I were to sell my 04 R32 I'd probably ask 16-17,000 and it only has 39,000 miles and has had no issues at all. So yeah, bail on that one but definitely buy an R32.
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Oct 28, 2010 17:14
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I'll note that nothing lined up quite right on my 2.8 V6 in my Passat. The the crank timing mark didn't align with where the crank lock engaged, and the two cam pulleys were almost a tooth out of alignment before I removed the belt, which made installing the cam locking bar a pain. I don't think the tolerances on those engines are all that tight.
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Oct 29, 2010 03:00
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wolrah posted:TDC means top dead center, which could apply to any piston and just means the piston is as far away from the crank as it gets (and obviously on the compression stroke in a four stroke engine). In the context of timing TDC almost always refers to the #1 cylinder. I know TDC means piston 1 is up, but I set the crank at TDC and 1 sure as hell isn't up. I know I'm not 180 out either cause another rotation yields the same result. I'm pretty sure Audis are just weird about this, cause I checked and piston 3 is definitely up at TDC.
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Oct 29, 2010 20:54
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Got my 16" set from tirerack put on Friday. Wheels were only $150 a piece, not bad. More styling than steel wheels. (Maybe I should have seen about putting VW center caps instead of the ones that came with it but oh well). Made in Germany instead of China like most of the other wheels. Should probably get my car and wheels cleaned up too... 
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Nov 1, 2010 00:00
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2002 Jetta V6 New MAF sensor and new catalytic converter installed $1600. How bad did I get screwed?
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Nov 1, 2010 13:10
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JHVH-1 posted:Got my 16" set from tirerack put on Friday. Wheels were only $150 a piece, not bad. More styling than steel wheels. (Maybe I should have seen about putting VW center caps instead of the ones that came with it but oh well). Made in Germany instead of China like most of the other wheels. This is why i'm waiting as long as possible to put my snows on. I just hate the look of dropping down from my 18" BBS wheels to the crappy 16" wheels I bought. I had someone at the carwash call my car a subaru when they were done with it  (with the snows)
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Nov 1, 2010 18:08
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I've recently bought some mk4 r32 calipers for my mk4 gti. I've got 17 inch mk1 audi tt 6 spoke ronal alloy wheels. Now i've seen r32's with these wheels on and the brakes can fit behind these wheels, but i'm not sure if i'm going to need spacers or not due to the size of the caliper. I'm not 100% sure what the ET of these wheels are, googling has failed me so far but i seem to remember et35 as a number in my head for these. Can anyone tell me what size spacers I might need if any? I would hate to go and fit them and find that the wheels won't go on afterwards...
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Nov 3, 2010 10:32
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Sorry if this has already been covered, but what's your take on the Audi S3 TFSI-based kits for the A4 2.0 TFSI? I am looking to buy an '06 or 07 A4 2.0TQ but it's a pretty heavy car. I live in europe, so the logical step would be to get an MTM kit. Except they don't offer one. I'm looking for an alternative that will deliver a similar stock-like drivability and "install and forget" quality. I have noticed the APR 300hp K04-based kit, and it looks pretty attractive, using stock Audi parts and a suitable program. Is there any experience on this kit yet?
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Nov 3, 2010 21:49
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Acknot posted:Sorry if this has already been covered, but what's your take on the Audi S3 TFSI-based kits for the A4 2.0 TFSI? eh have a good friend that has a 2.0TFSI A4, which is heavier than the A3 by a decent margin, and it still has a good amount of zip if you want performance you're still giving up 250lb to a GTI
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Nov 3, 2010 23:38
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primitive posted:eh That is true, but a GTI is too small for my needs. The A4 is pretty heavy, and looking for a fast-ish awd wagon there are few choices. Compared to a 2,5-litre WRX, wagon, for instance, the A4 wagon seems to be around 5-600lbs(!) heavier. So, wonderful powerband and all, the 2.0 TFSI is simply crushed by the WRX. However, the A4 is superior in every other aspect. The fit and finish, the perceived quality, the interior... A4 is the only viable alternative. So. I'm looking into ways to improve the performance somewhat.
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Nov 4, 2010 00:10
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Tetraptous posted:I'll note that nothing lined up quite right on my 2.8 V6 in my Passat. The the crank timing mark didn't align with where the crank lock engaged, and the two cam pulleys were almost a tooth out of alignment before I removed the belt, which made installing the cam locking bar a pain. I don't think the tolerances on those engines are all that tight. The tolerances are as tight as any gas engine you'll find but you weren't doing the job the way it's outlined in the shop literature. The marks you see for the crank are just reference marks prior to installing the locking pin that locks the crank - they're not meant to be exact - that's the lock's job.. Technically, with the cam locking bar installed you can loosen the cam sprocket bolts and break sprockets loose. The cam lock bar doesn't use the sprockets to lock the cams - it uses the oval plates on the ends of the am to lock the timing. Typically I lock the crank with the pin, compress and lock the tensioner, install the cam lock, install the pump etc, pop the sprockets loose, install the belt, release the tensioner, remove the crank lock and roll the engine over 2 or 3 times and re-check the timing with the cam lock bar.
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Nov 4, 2010 02:16
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Acknot posted:That is true, but a GTI is too small for my needs. The A4 is pretty heavy, and looking for a fast-ish awd wagon there are few choices. Compared to a 2,5-litre WRX, wagon, for instance, the A4 wagon seems to be around 5-600lbs(!) heavier. So, wonderful powerband and all, the 2.0 TFSI is simply crushed by the WRX. FWIW, I drive a B7 Avant and it's the perfect car for me. I had a MkV GTI before it, and even though I miss the VW sometimes, I love my A4. The 2.0T comes alive with an APR chip, and if you're planning to go further with a K04, it'll really be fun. I'm doing full exhaust next year which should add another nice bump in hp. It took me a while to find the right one but it was worth it. I don't recommend the automatic unless it's a necessity. Manual and automatic A4s are completely different beasts.
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Nov 4, 2010 04:14
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I have 1999.5 Jetta 4, 4 cyl 2.0, automatic. A few years ago, I started getting a problem where the transmission would slip out of gear when it was cold (stopped and in gear, or at low speeds). It didn't do it at higher speeds but it would resume when I stopped for a light. Once I'd been driving for a while it would stop. This progressively got worse and worse, and my mechanic at the time seemed to think that the transmission fluid was low, so he topped it off. This seems to help, but the problem always came back. I know there seems to be some debate about whether or not to ever change transmission fluid, with some saying it's fine and others saying never change it ever, and others saying if you haven't changed it regularly, then don't change it ever. He was of the camp that I should not change it. He eventually took a different job and closed his shop down, and I started going to a different mechanic. The problem was coming back, so I went to him with it instead. He thought that we should change the fluid, so I went with that. I got it as far as my job, and it seemed okay, but I stayed late at work and when I went to leave, the problem was the worst it had ever been. It was to the point where I could not drive it, and I ended up getting out the car so that I could push it back into my job's parking lot by myself. I had to have it towed back to the mechanic and had the transmission replaced/rebuilt. It was probably a waste of money for this car, even then, but it's done now. The problem has resurfaced. It's perfectly drivable, but it can be annoying while I'm pulling out of a parking lot or trying to go from a stop light (especially if I'm on a hill). It gets worse in cold weather, so I've been thinking about having it looked at it as winter approaches. I don't really go the other mechanic anymore; I've gone to a local one who has been okay for oil changes and inspections, but I haven't had anything major done there. I'm just kind of afraid to bring it up again for fear that the next guy is going to somehow cause me to need another transmission, at which point I would likely just buy a new car which I can't really afford right now. Wow, that's a lot of words.. basically I figured I'd see if anyone had any advice about the problem, what causes it, is it common to VWs, is it easily fixable, what I could say to a mechanic to have them not cause it to poo poo itself again, etc. Thanks!
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Nov 5, 2010 04:42
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DropShadow posted:FWIW, I drive a B7 Avant and it's the perfect car for me. I had a MkV GTI before it, and even though I miss the VW sometimes, I love my A4. The 2.0T comes alive with an APR chip, and if you're planning to go further with a K04, it'll really be fun. I'm doing full exhaust next year which should add another nice bump in hp. Thanks for your experience! I agree, it needs to be manual, if nothing else then because i enjoy driving manual cars. Is there any experience running APR software in an european cars? There seem to be some claims that the ECUs are the same between euro and US TFSI engines. Anyone know of euro cars running APR or any other big name US software? I sometimes hear that people have to re-map tuned cars imported from the US due to the differences in fuel. Apart from different octane rating figures, I seems the composition and properties of the gas itself is different aswell. Will fuel quality worries prevent me from running the APR S3 K04 kit?
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Nov 5, 2010 22:03
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my1999gsr posted:The tolerances are as tight as any gas engine you'll find but you weren't doing the job the way it's outlined in the shop literature. The marks you see for the crank are just reference marks prior to installing the locking pin that locks the crank - they're not meant to be exact - that's the lock's job.. Technically, with the cam locking bar installed you can loosen the cam sprocket bolts and break sprockets loose. The cam lock bar doesn't use the sprockets to lock the cams - it uses the oval plates on the ends of the am to lock the timing. Typically I lock the crank with the pin, compress and lock the tensioner, install the cam lock, install the pump etc, pop the sprockets loose, install the belt, release the tensioner, remove the crank lock and roll the engine over 2 or 3 times and re-check the timing with the cam lock bar. That makes sense. I assumed that the crank lock was more correct than the timing mark, and used that when I changed the belt--at the time, I didn't have the shop manual, and everything else I'd read on the (unreliable) internet indicated that the marks should line up perfectly. I also changed it with the cam bar in place, although I don't recall loosening the sprockets. Oh well, it seems to run fine still!
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Nov 5, 2010 22:14
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DropShadow posted:FWIW, I drive a B7 Avant and it's the perfect car for me. I had a MkV GTI before it, and even though I miss the VW sometimes, I love my A4. The 2.0T comes alive with an APR chip, and if you're planning to go further with a K04, it'll really be fun. I'm doing full exhaust next year which should add another nice bump in hp. Based somewhat on your suggestion I have one, too, and I'm actually enjoying it more than the e46 M3 it's replacing. I planned to chip it, but for now it feels plenty zippy even stock. It's not fast, but it has enough torque to feel fast and it definitely doesn't drive like a big car.
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Nov 5, 2010 22:58
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havelock posted:Based somewhat on your suggestion I have one, too, and I'm actually enjoying it more than the e46 M3 it's replacing. I planned to chip it, but for now it feels plenty zippy even stock. It's not fast, but it has enough torque to feel fast and it definitely doesn't drive like a big car. Chip it, you won't know why you waited. It's a night & day difference. Seriously. Do it already.
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Nov 6, 2010 00:27
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I'd just like to confirm my suspicions here. A guy at work, has a 95 passat wagon, VR6. It has no "rad cap" in the traditional sense, so I have no idea if this is normal. Its blowing white smoke, lots, and there is bubbling in the coolant overflow tank. Normally I would suspect that there is a blown headgasket/cracked head issue. But with this crazy off the wall, and superior german technology, I have no idea if this is normal or not, and how the crap do they pressurize this system? Is there something else that I'm missing here? Last question, he wants to get rid of the thing. Soon, and wants to put some sort of stop leak type poo poo in the cooling system, how does he do that, does he have to take off a rad hose, and pour it in?
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Nov 6, 2010 00:32
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scapulataf posted:I'd just like to confirm my suspicions here. The "rad cap" in this Passat is the cap on the coolant reservoir and it works just like a traditional rad cap. You can add a stop leak product if you like - generally the instructions that come with the additive are pretty point and shoot so just go by that. It sounds very much like a head gasket issue but if it is, I doubt any stop leak will help.
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Nov 6, 2010 02:05
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Tetraptous posted:That makes sense. I assumed that the crank lock was more correct than the timing mark, and used that when I changed the belt--at the time, I didn't have the shop manual, and everything else I'd read on the (unreliable) internet indicated that the marks should line up perfectly. I also changed it with the cam bar in place, although I don't recall loosening the sprockets. Oh well, it seems to run fine still! Loosening the sprockets is just a trick to make it a little easier if you have the tools to do it that way - there's absolutely nothing wrong with the way you did your t-belt change.
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Nov 6, 2010 02:07
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Briantist posted:I have 1999.5 Jetta 4, 4 cyl 2.0, automatic. A few years ago, I started getting a problem where the transmission would slip out of gear when it was cold (stopped and in gear, or at low speeds). It didn't do it at higher speeds but it would resume when I stopped for a light. Once I'd been driving for a while it would stop. So you had your transmission rebuilt, it was ok for a while and the problem has started again? Make double-sure that your guy was using the correct VW transmission fluid for the transmission you have. If you had low fluid and it was topped up with the wrong fluid then your problem would just get worse and worse. If the tranny was rebuilt and re-filled with the wrong fluid then you'd be back in the same boat. Our gearboxes are really particular about what fluid they get - it wouldn't be the first time an incorrect tranny fluid resulted in a problem like you're having. If you can get me the part number of the fluid (it should be on the work order you got when your tranny was rebuilt) I can give you a better idea if it's correct.
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Nov 6, 2010 02:15
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my1999gsr posted:So you had your transmission rebuilt, it was ok for a while and the problem has started again? Make double-sure that your guy was using the correct VW transmission fluid for the transmission you have. If you had low fluid and it was topped up with the wrong fluid then your problem would just get worse and worse. If the tranny was rebuilt and re-filled with the wrong fluid then you'd be back in the same boat. Our gearboxes are really particular about what fluid they get - it wouldn't be the first time an incorrect tranny fluid resulted in a problem like you're having. If you can get me the part number of the fluid (it should be on the work order you got when your tranny was rebuilt) I can give you a better idea if it's correct.
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Nov 6, 2010 06:37
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Speaking about transmissions. I've got an 02Q 6 speed with about 32K on it. when should I change the transmission fluid? Does the transmission share the same fluid as the diff?
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Nov 6, 2010 09:11
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Briantist posted:I think I may have muddled up the timeline here a bit. It was rebuilt over two, maybe even over three years ago, and was fine since then. It started back up again a few months ago. Since then I moved suddenly and unexpectedly and unfortunately I lost the paperwork. Have you seen this particular problem before? How long would it take for this type of problem to resurface if the problem were the wrong fluid? Thanks! Its hard to say how different fluids effect the transmission's operation so all I can tell you is that the proper fluid works and the wrong ones don't. When we're talking about a rebuilt VW auto tranny slipping I think of wrong fluid or low fluid level first since the mechanicals are usually pretty tough and don't tend to slip. Do you use the vehicle to tow something? My first step if I were you would be to go to your nearest VW dealership and tell them what's going on. Odds are, they'll check your fluid level and go from there.
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Nov 6, 2010 16:04
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Blocko posted:Speaking about transmissions. I've got an 02Q 6 speed with about 32K on it. when should I change the transmission fluid? Does the transmission share the same fluid as the diff? I'm not 100% on the transmission service intervals since they've only recently become a scheduled service but it should be in your manual. If you don't have the manual or it doesn't specify the interval, let me know and I'll dig into my service literature and find out. The diff fluid should be the same as the tranny fluid as well.
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Nov 6, 2010 16:08
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Whats the general opinion on 2007-era GTI's? I currently own a 96' VW Jetta GLX that is on it's last legs, and am looking to upgrade. Should I stay away from non-VW dealers selling these cars? Currently a local Honda dealership has an 07' Whire GTI for sale at $16.3k. Took it out for a test drive and it seems fairly nice, although it does have kind of high miles on it (57k). I honestly haven't been looking for long, so I don't know what to watch out for on these cars, any tips are greatly appreciated 
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Nov 7, 2010 02:38
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Wicaeed posted:Whats the general opinion on 2007-era GTI's? I currently own a 96' VW Jetta GLX that is on it's last legs, and am looking to upgrade. I like the looks and performance of the A5-style GTI much more than the newer A6 cars. The only weak link in the GTI you're looking at tends to be the BPY 2.0T engine - they seem to have several common problems like intake flap motor failures and oil consumption issues. Some of the A5-style 2.0T engines never had an issue with either of those problems but we've seen enough cars with one or both problems to consider it a concern. If I were buying a used VW product I would be very hesitant to buy one from a non-VW dealer if for no other reason than a VW dealer will be able to offer you a CPO warranty that's very comprehensive. Additionally, if you buy from a VW dealer you can request to see the vehicle's dealer service and warranty repair history and that very good information to have.
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Nov 7, 2010 15:52
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I'm trying to change the glow plugs on my '99 Polo, Which of the gods of VW am i supposed to dance to to make this work? My predicament:  Click here for the full 600x449 image. This looks fairly usual. Glow plugs under the injectors  Click here for the full 600x449 image. Yep fairly normal. Pity there's so much poo poo in the way that i can't get leverage with any of my spanners.  Click here for the full 449x600 image. Again, What i assume to be the thermostat housing is in the way so you can't actually rotate anything longer than 2cm, Which doesn't give enough torque to remove the plug retaining nut nevermind the plug. Any ideas for how to actually get these out? I assume the MK3 golf is somewhat the same, but i can't for the life of me get anything done.
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Nov 7, 2010 17:07
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ToG posted:I'm trying to change the glow plugs on my '99 Polo, Which of the gods of VW am i supposed to dance to to make this work? Well, I've never worked on a Polo since we didn't get it in Canada but I would think (judging from the pics) that you'll have to remove the coolant flange to get at the last glow plug. Just in case, I'd make sure you have a new flange seal on hand just in case you old one is in poor shape.
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Nov 8, 2010 00:55
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ToG posted:Goddamn I hate Polo engine bays That plug there with the green band is the coolant temperature sensor, squeeze that shiny metal clip in and you can remove the lead without removing the entire sensor which should give you enough space to get that glow plug out. Good luck!
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Nov 8, 2010 08:20
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jammyozzy posted:That plug there with the green band is the coolant temperature sensor, squeeze that shiny metal clip in and you can remove the lead without removing the entire sensor which should give you enough space to get that glow plug out. Good luck! I've removed this, but there's still not much room. Maybe i've got clunky hands but that plastic fixtures getting in the way more.
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Nov 8, 2010 11:45
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Headlights. I need new ones, 1 is out and the other is 6 years old. Any suggestions on the best ones to get? Car is 2004 GLI the bulb is 9007. The oem bulbs suck rear end.
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Nov 9, 2010 17:42
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veedubfreak posted:Headlights. I need new ones, 1 is out and the other is 6 years old. Any suggestions on the best ones to get? Car is 2004 GLI the bulb is 9007. The oem bulbs suck rear end. Honestly the longest-lived bulbs I've seen so far have been the OEM bulbs. I've replaced a pile of Silverstars and various other non-OE bulbs but then we're a dealership too so we tend to use OEM unless the customer wants something different. It seems like the real problem is that the OE lenses discolor so easily that the light output suffers.
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Nov 10, 2010 04:58
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2002 Jetta v6 It would "stutter", just not run right. After $1743.00 for a new catalytic converter, a new MAF sensor, and a couple of new vacuum hoses... it still runs the same... terrible. I've taken it 3 different places now. First place, gave it a tune-up, new plugs and wires. Second place, a VW dealership, said "We can't find anything wrong with it. It ran fine for us." Third place, says you need a catalytic converter, and MAF sensor, and 2 vacuum hoses. This guy couldn't see how the two places above had missed the huge holes in the vacuum tubes. These were after the MAF sensor before going into the engine. This guy said there was no way the first 2 garages should have missed something so obvious, and I would have to agree. So the third place fixes everything, but he says it's not perfect because "only a VW Service garage can reprogram the EPC computer". Something about there not being an acceleration cable... I don't know. So $1743 and it's still not right. I drive it 1 mile home, 17 miles to work the next day, and about half-way home the whole engine shuts down on the highway. I restart it and get the anti-slip light, and check engine light. I drive it straight to the service place. Tell him what happened... and he says "we'll have to download that EPC code". Now just the day before he said he couldn't do that, and only VW could. He also kept talking about how bad my battery was. I have no idea why. It sounded like he was grasping at straws to just tell me something. He pulled it in the garage and tested the battery in front of me and it tested fine. He said the day before it was dead. Does anyone have any ideas? What kind of recourse do I have, if he can't fix it? I just paid him $1743.00 for him to play with my car for a week.  Click here for the full 1200x1553 image. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 14:51
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my1999gsr posted:Honestly the longest-lived bulbs I've seen so far have been the OEM bulbs. I've replaced a pile of Silverstars and various other non-OE bulbs but then we're a dealership too so we tend to use OEM unless the customer wants something different. It seems like the real problem is that the OE lenses discolor so easily that the light output suffers. Ya, my lenses are pretty jacked up right now too. The dealer near me offers a cleaning/polishing service, what do you suggest as far as fixing the crappy plastic lenses? I plan on doing that over the thanksgiving week as I'm taking the week off. Just as an addition, I'm due for a new battery also, factory battery is 6 years old and it's starting to show its age. I have a feeling it's going to leave me stranded here pretty soon. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 17:18
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