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What has replaced PageMaker for DTP?
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Nov 1, 2010 03:16
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Assuming DTP means Desktop Publishing, Adobe InDesign. Or QuarkXpress, but I don't know anyone who uses that.
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Nov 1, 2010 04:44
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gmc9987 posted:Assuming DTP means Desktop Publishing, Adobe InDesign. Or QuarkXpress, but I don't know anyone who uses that. Yeah, Desktop Publishing. I'll check out InDesign. Thanks.
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Nov 2, 2010 03:54
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I have a stupid little question: is stenciling (out of acetate sheets), for a novice, accurate enough to cut good-looking text (at most 1'' height)? Will curves be preserved well? Also, acetate, bought from office suppliers, is expensive. Is there a good analogue to practice on? Cardboard is too stiff, and paper tears too easily on curved and diagonal cuts. Thanks BROS edit: Am I better off buying a Helvetica stencil? Ars Manga fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Nov 2, 2010 |
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Nov 2, 2010 19:32
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Ars Manga posted:I have a stupid little question: is stenciling (out of acetate sheets), for a novice, accurate enough to cut good-looking text (at most 1'' height)? Will curves be preserved well? The easiest way I know to make good stencils of text is by typing up what you want to say, printing it out, and using that as your cutting guide. Duralar is great for stencils, it is similar to acetate but not terribly expensive. (Still kind of pricy I guess? Depends on how big you want it). Find an art supply store and buy it in books rather than sheets if you're doing a ton of stencils. Amazon has rolls (40"x12') for $20. For good accuracy with your stencils, I recommend spray adhesive. Get the light-hold kind and use it sparingly, it'll help hold the wiggly little edges down.
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Nov 2, 2010 21:20
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jediBAMF fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Oct 13, 2015 |
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Nov 3, 2010 16:59
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vonnegutt posted:The easiest way I know to make good stencils of text is by typing up what you want to say, printing it out, and using that as your cutting guide. Duralar is great for stencils, it is similar to acetate but not terribly expensive. (Still kind of pricy I guess? Depends on how big you want it). Find an art supply store and buy it in books rather than sheets if you're doing a ton of stencils. Amazon has rolls (40"x12') for $20. Thanks! Do you know what a good thickness is? Also, are you saying that you adhere the paper cutting guide to the Duralar? That seems like a problem to me since paper tears easily on diagonal and curved cuts.
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Nov 4, 2010 19:31
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Ars Manga posted:Thanks! Do you know what a good thickness is? The paper is cutting or tearing because you're using an old blade, diagonal or curve has nothing to do with it. Blades cost literally 15 cents so you should have a lot of them if you are doing this kind of thing because they dull quickly. Thickness of the stock depends on how rough you are with your stencil but I like 5 mil or thinner, but I only use a laser cutter now. Curves are easier to cut with a blade on thinner stock. Try a few and get a feel for what you need. When I was doing a lot of hand cutting I'd change them out every 5-10 minutes or so.
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Nov 4, 2010 21:10
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Ars Manga posted:Thanks! Do you know what a good thickness is? No, sorry to be unclear: you adhere the Duralar to whatever you're stenciling on. I used it when I bleach-stenciled t-shirts and by using adhesive to stick the Duralar to the tshirt I was able to keep the serifs on the letters from getting blurry. Any thickness of Duralar is fine, you'll go through less Xactos if it's thinner but I bought the cheapest and it worked fine. It's clear so you should be able to either cut right over your paper guide and/or use a pencil to trace it, if you need to, no adhesive necessary. Also you only spray the slightest amount of adhesive, you just don't want the air from the spray paint to blow up the edges of your stencil when you paint. I used the "light hold" and was able to pull the stencil right off.
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Nov 5, 2010 00:13
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Anyone have ergonomic tips for drawing, specifically on an Intuos/Cintiq? I'm trying to avoid getting into RSI problems, and am trying to figure out any tricks to reduce strain. So far I've wrapped my stylus with some foam to make it a bit thicker, and am trying not to press down so hard.
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Nov 5, 2010 00:19
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Locus posted:Anyone have ergonomic tips for drawing, specifically on an Intuos/Cintiq? I'm trying to avoid getting into RSI problems, and am trying to figure out any tricks to reduce strain. So far I've wrapped my stylus with some foam to make it a bit thicker, and am trying not to press down so hard. Play with your desk arrangement, I found that moving my Wacom to the center and having my keyboard on the left and mouse on my right (right handed person, so take this with a grain of salt, lefties) let me have the most natural position for drawing, since that's what I do most of the day. I also have it at about a 45 degree angle (flat on the desk) so that my arm motion is most natural, I know some other people prop it up so that there's a 10-20 degree angle vertically.
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Nov 5, 2010 00:45
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My trick is to draw from the shoulder and keep my wrist locked. Crazy poo poo, I know.
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Nov 5, 2010 00:53
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Where can I get high quality sellable prints of my charcoal drawings? I'm showing at a gallery and all I have are originals and I feel like I'm totally missing out on a grip of cash for those that don't necessarily want to dish out for an origial. Here's the catch...the show is on Thursday  Do I just find somewhere to scan them in and give the high res pics to any print shop?Plug: BANG Gallery Los Angeles 354 Spring St Downtown LA https://www.banggalleryla.com Show opening Nov 11th 6:00pm If any Cali goons are there for the downtown art walk come say whattup!
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Nov 7, 2010 05:38
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God I hope somebody here can help me, I'm about to start tearing my hair out. I am trying to find some kind of company that will print-on-demand some short runs of custom game cards that I have made, for holiday gifts. The kicker is that I am in the USA, and the cards *must* be exactly 63x88mm. While that might not sound like such a big deal, apparently it is. I have found three custom printers that operate in the USA; TheGameCrafter, SuperiorPOD, and ArtsCow. All of them print only at a 2.5 x 3.5 inch size, which is close, but not the correct size. I have found one company, Dinilu.eu, that will print at a 63x88mm size, but they appear to be expensive and I have yet to receive a response from their customer service (after half a week) about whether or not they will actually even ship to the USA from where they operate in Europe. Does anyone know of any companies that can do what I am looking to do? I am looking to have maybe 10 or so 54-card decks printed. I am beginning to care less and less about what it will cost as long as they are exactly 63x88mm (with rounded corners, like most Trading card game cards). All I can seem to find are various Chinese companies that seem dodgy at best and won't even talk to me unless I'm ordering a gross of units or something ridiculous like that. Thanks in advance if anyone has some info for me. Edit: Just read some more about Dinilu.eu, they don't even sell to individuals anyway. So yeah, I'm pretty well hosed unless someone else knows of something I wasn't able to find on Google
Jemak fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Nov 7, 2010 |
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Nov 7, 2010 06:31
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That is really weird, because I had some trading cards printed at Kinko's and they were a nonstandard size: not 63x88mm, but nothing that was carried in stock. I just asked to have a bunch printed and then laser cut. It cost more for the cuts but they all turned out perfect, and were the size I needed. How I did it: I built the card layout in Adobe Illustrator and then brought it into Photoshop for the images. The document was exactly the size I needed, so I guess their printers/cutters could deal with it because of that? I got 50 cards made for like, $25 on regular 8.5x11" cardstock, and they trimmed them down for me. Maybe printing on sheets and then finding a laser cutter who will cut them for you will work better?
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Nov 7, 2010 15:35
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Beat. posted:The paper is cutting or tearing because you're using an old blade, diagonal or curve has nothing to do with it. Blades cost literally 15 cents so you should have a lot of them if you are doing this kind of thing because they dull quickly. I thought that as well, so I went out and bought a bunch of blades. The problem persisted. Paper does come in all sorts of thicknesses, and maybe this is particularly thick paper I'm using. I'll try with ruled paper, which seems to be very thin. quote:Curves are easier to cut with a blade on thinner stock. Try a few and get a feel for what you need. When I was doing a lot of hand cutting I'd change them out every 5-10 minutes or so. I'll keep that in mind, I was wondering how often to change blades, thanks. vonnegutt posted:It's clear so you should be able to either cut right over your paper guide and/or use a pencil to trace it, if you need to, no adhesive necessary. quote:Also you only spray the slightest amount of adhesive, you just don't want the air from the spray paint to blow up the edges of your stencil when you paint. I used the "light hold" and was able to pull the stencil right off. Oh, yeah. Adhering should take a little practice since the last time I used it my desk ended up sticky. Thanks a lot, guys!
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Nov 7, 2010 16:34
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vonnegutt posted:That is really weird, because I had some trading cards printed at Kinko's and they were a nonstandard size: not 63x88mm, but nothing that was carried in stock. I just asked to have a bunch printed and then laser cut. It cost more for the cuts but they all turned out perfect, and were the size I needed. Not a terrible idea...I've got no idea where to start looking for anyone who would laser cut for me locally though. That doesn't burn the paper at all? I'd really like to be able to find a printer that will just get it done in one easy step. I wonder if a personal die cutter wouldn't be a better option, since 2.5 x 3.5 inches are a little bigger than 63x88mm maybe I can trim the edges myself. Jemak fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Nov 7, 2010 |
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Nov 7, 2010 23:32
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What's a good drawing app for the mac? I need something that's simple to get into so I can do some practice doodling. I'm not looking for MS paint simple, I just don't want something that doesn't requires me to read a a book to use.
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Nov 9, 2010 08:08
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Haggins posted:What's a good drawing app for the mac? I need something that's simple to get into so I can do some practice doodling. I'm not looking for MS paint simple, I just don't want something that doesn't requires me to read a a book to use. Artrage http://www.artrage.com/artrage-demos.html
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Nov 9, 2010 09:08
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Jemak posted:Not a terrible idea...I've got no idea where to start looking for anyone who would laser cut for me locally though. That doesn't burn the paper at all? I'd really like to be able to find a printer that will just get it done in one easy step. I wonder if a personal die cutter wouldn't be a better option, since 2.5 x 3.5 inches are a little bigger than 63x88mm maybe I can trim the edges myself. There will be a die cutters somewhere near you: for ease, it'll be far easier than hand-trimming. And you'll get an actual good finish, and round edges. Get your cards printed up on sheets at a printers, with at least 2mm bleed, then go to the die cutters, and pay for a die at the exact size. And if you want more done later, the die cutters will keep the die, and you won't have get another one constructed. Be a little bit more expensive than if you had it done inhouse at a printers, but if you really want it done, it's easy enough to sort out
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Nov 9, 2010 10:18
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Haggins posted:What's a good drawing app for the mac? I need something that's simple to get into so I can do some practice doodling. I'm not looking for MS paint simple, I just don't want something that doesn't requires me to read a a book to use. Sketchbook Pro http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?siteID=123112&id=6848332
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Nov 9, 2010 13:17
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Thanks, I'll give them both a try since the have free demos.
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Nov 9, 2010 17:48
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What's the name of the character often seen in films and literature that "explains" the "secrets" or plot revelations to the protagonist and the audience/reader? It's usually a teacher or a scientist or librarian or a fortune teller. Just off the top of my head in the movie Wolf it's an old guy who tells Jack Nicholson about Lycanthropy and gives him a pendent. In the movie Wishmaster it's an woman teacher who tells the main girl the legend of the Djinn. Another teacher does the same thing for the main character in the movie Candyman. There are a ton of movies and books where the protagonist goes and see's some "knowledgeable character" who basically is only there to inform the protagonist and audience/reader about the background or mythology of some central aspect of the story, such as how something works, the "legend" of the antagonist or something like that. Am I thinking of the Expository Character? I didn't think so because I don't think that they are the exact same things. I thought exposition was just reiterating the overall plot in condensed form. But I'm not sure.
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Nov 11, 2010 06:25
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As a Propp's archetype, the mentor character would be either Donor or Dispatcher with the function of transference. I'm sure there is a more common (and possibly more amusing) term for that plot device or type of character, but it eludes me at the moment.
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Nov 11, 2010 10:14
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A friend of mine is opening a store in a high traffic area and he wants to put up art. This is more of a chance to get exposure, but if any art sells he says he charges 40% commission. I was wondering if it would be worth it to try this. e: I mean, if I gave him some of my art to display and possibly sell. 
An observer fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Nov 11, 2010 |
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Nov 11, 2010 15:57
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Illustrator question: I'm trying to create a rectangular object that has a fill color and transparent text within it. Imagine something like 'The Economist' logo but with transparent text that allows you see the colors behind the logo. I've got a rectangular object and the text object centered and everything ready in that capacity. I've made the text transparent. However, when I fill the rectangle the text turns to the fill color, and I'm hoping somehow to get this transparency through both layers. Any ideas or tutorials? I'm pretty new to this whole thing so any help would be appreciated.
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Nov 11, 2010 19:29
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The rectangle and the text are two different objects, so if the text is transparent, it won't also make the rectangle transparent. Try converting the text to outlines, then use the pathfinder to exclude overlapping areas.
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Nov 11, 2010 20:46
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An observer posted:A friend of mine is opening a store in a high traffic area and he wants to put up art. This is more of a chance to get exposure, but if any art sells he says he charges 40% commission. I was wondering if it would be worth it to try this. It's something you have to decide. The way you phrase your question really sucks. Who the hell here knows about what anything is worth to you? Nobody. Are commission sales normal for people selling through retail venues? Yes. Are they a good way to sell art? Maybe. I have seen work sell and I have seen it not sell - it's about matching price with quality. I personally think it's better to sell something for cheaper and actually sell it than for more expensive and not sell at all and retain your "artistic pride." Does foot traffic equate to high sales? Not necessarily. For me exposure doesn't mean all that much in itself, it's more about the audience.
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Nov 11, 2010 21:49
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Beat. posted:It's something you have to decide. The way you phrase your question really sucks. Who the hell here knows about what anything is worth to you? Nobody. Yeah, my question looks like I ran it through google translate a couple of times. Mostly I just wanted to know if 40% commission is normal. Thanks though!
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Nov 11, 2010 22:12
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big beefy chedder posted:The rectangle and the text are two different objects, so if the text is transparent, it won't also make the rectangle transparent. Try converting the text to outlines, then use the pathfinder to exclude overlapping areas. Thank you.
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Nov 11, 2010 22:24
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An observer posted:Yeah, my question looks like I ran it through google translate a couple of times. Mostly I just wanted to know if 40% commission is normal. Thanks though! It depends a lot on the venue, some things to think about would be whether or not you can price your work higher and if it will actually sell that way. I want to say it sounds a bit high to me, but really, it depends a lot on the business, location, etc. It could be a good deal for you.
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Nov 12, 2010 00:53
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An observer posted:A friend of mine is opening a store in a high traffic area and he wants to put up art. This is more of a chance to get exposure, but if any art sells he says he charges 40% commission. I was wondering if it would be worth it to try this. It seems a bit steep, it is however a great way of showcasing your art and maybe in the future those who have bought art from you may contact you personally where you can cut out the middleman. I'd say go for it, you help him and he helps you. 
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Nov 12, 2010 11:21
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MS Word 2010 question: Do you guys have any idea why this is happening? Table-breaking Screen-shot: http://i52.tinypic.com/2ltqzqh.png The problem I'm talking about is the spacing of the headings. All three headings are "Heading 1", and I've looked for any kind of option that mentions uneven spacings at the beginning of a page, but I haven't found any. Any of you tech-writing goons have a guess? Edit: For whatever reason, changing the "before" spacing of heading 1 fixed it. I have no idea why it was applying the before spacing to only the first one, but it was... Corla Plankun fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 15, 2010 23:58
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So what do you guys do for warm-up exercises when you start drawing?
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Nov 16, 2010 01:21
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CloseFriend posted:So what do you guys do for warm-up exercises when you start drawing? e: These same methods apply when I use a digital tablet, too.
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Nov 16, 2010 01:46
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Drawing long, straight parallel lines, drawing directionally shaded orbs, drawing grayscales with 8-10 evenly spaced gradations in one stroke
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Nov 16, 2010 07:02
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CloseFriend posted:So what do you guys do for warm-up exercises when you start drawing? I don't. (I don't know any professional illustrators who do). However I do tend to just doodle a lot. I keep a piece of paper next to my Wacom at work and just draw whatever while I'm waiting on things to save/render/whatever.
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Nov 16, 2010 14:57
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I'm asking for some art books for my birthday next week, anyone have any suggestions? I'm still learning a lot of basic stuff, hoping to focus on anatomy (to make what I usually do better) and landscapes/environments/scenery (so I can branch out to the stuff I'm bad at). I mostly work in pencil, graphite, or digital programs, which makes finding books on the latter a bit difficult as they seem focused on specific oil and watercolor techniques. Though I suppose with landscapes half the effect is using the character of the paints to make it work. Gets me wanting to invest in oils...
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Nov 18, 2010 03:17
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serious question: has anyone who posts in this thread ever met anyone who learned how to draw by reading a book? I cannot think of anyone I know who has, outside of copying plates as homework from a teacher
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Nov 18, 2010 07:05
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Beat. posted:serious question: has anyone who posts in this thread ever met anyone who learned how to draw by reading a book? I cannot think of anyone I know who has, outside of copying plates as homework from a teacher My dad says he started that way, but he also says he didn't really know what he was doing until he befriended some artists and started learning things in person. I look at art instruction books to see how other artists approach certain problems (I love those books that are nothing but drawings of hands and stuff like that), but I'd never advise a beginner to choose books over real-life classes.
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Nov 18, 2010 07:16
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