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Russian Bear posted:What's the general consensus on sv650 as first bike? Seems like I read that it's at the top end of starter bikes. Someone in the "new to riding" thread recommended it because I'm a tall as mofo(6'4 34.5" inseam and i don't know how much weight plays into thing but 210lb) I'll be taking the MSF soon, but i'm keeping my eye on craigslist in the mean time. So am I crazy? Should I just stick to ninjas/GS recommendation? As someone who is 6'6" and 245, the SV was a perfect good first bike for me. Sadly I'm still too tall for it. Long rides are not comfortable and I did have to redo the front and rear suspension to make it bearable. I had NO trouble getting used to the bike itself. I have put about 12k on it so far without any major accidents. I am starting to want to get rid of it, but only because at 6'6" it's killing my back to bend over it. (I have the S, supposedly the standard is not as back breaking). So in short, I think the SV is a great bike to start on. Also I am horrifically reckless and the SV with it's top speed of 125 has kept me from killing myself...
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Nov 8, 2010 23:01
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SV650 was and still is my first bike, I've tacked on almost 15k now. I've never had it really get away from me but I've always had a good handle on self restraint.
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Nov 8, 2010 23:22
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sv is my first bike too. I think its a pretty good learner bike. It has a good amount of power but its not overwhelming on the street. You really need to turn the throttle a lot (even grabbing it fairly aggressively I end up having to drop my shoulders to get it open all the way) to get it wide open which means you're unlikely to tweak it accidentally on a pothole or something and have it surge ahead. Its reasonably light and it feels it while maneuvering it around at low speeds. You can pretty easily catch it on one foot if you do start to drop it. Its definitely heavier and larger than the 250 I did the MSF on but after a couple hours practicing in the car park I felt pretty used to the size. I haven't ridden the naked version but the S model gets pretty uncomfortable for me after about an hour or so. I'm about 6 feet tall and my back aches after a while. Worth it though.
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Nov 8, 2010 23:36
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The S model has very similar ergos to your typical sportbike. The N model has a handlebar and lower pegs.
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Nov 8, 2010 23:37
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I love my SV. It's a great starter bike if you have enough self-control, and it'll grow with you. As others have said, if you're on the heavier side, you'll want to swap the suspension. For content, here's what I did today.  It's a 450mm Delkevic. So great.
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Nov 9, 2010 01:34
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I started on a GS500 and the SV is a rocketship in comparison. I'm glad I started on a slower bike.
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Nov 9, 2010 02:35
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Z3n posted:The S model has very similar ergos to your typical sportbike. The N model has a handlebar and lower pegs. More importantly, I want to show off the new color. I painted all the white plastics on the Gladius black, and I think it's a million times better.  Edit: Before: http://imgur.com/uxpXj.jpg Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Nov 9, 2010 |
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Nov 9, 2010 16:26
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Sv's are awesome bikes period. I actually went from a Zx-6r to an sv and its so much more fun in the city. But I will eventually get a bigger, more powerful standard because I'm silly.
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Nov 9, 2010 16:38
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chryst posted:What's happened to the exhaust? Was that just a giant heat shield? I see you removed the stupid lower frame cover thing. Now if you could just remove the giant piece of driftwood the pegs mount to.
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Nov 10, 2010 00:50
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chryst posted:More importantly, I want to show off the new color. I painted all the white plastics on the Gladius black, and I think it's a million times better. Whats going on with that exhaust?
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Nov 10, 2010 01:07
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I love what people are doing to Gladiuseseseses. There's some really great examples over at SVR, which is great because it looks awful stock. How much did you sell the silver pants for?
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Nov 10, 2010 01:44
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Zool posted:What's happened to the exhaust? Was that just a giant heat shield? I see you removed the stupid lower frame cover thing. Now if you could just remove the giant piece of driftwood the pegs mount to. Endless Mike posted:I love what people are doing to Gladiuseseseses. There's some really great examples over at SVR, which is great because it looks awful stock. You can't see it in the pic, but I also put a GSX-R shock in the rear, and I'm still trying to figure out how to deal with the front. The full GSXR swap requires machine-work, so I'll probably just get the intiminator things whenever I have a couple hundred spare bucks. I wear the space pants on Halloween as part of my gay astronaut costume.
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Nov 10, 2010 05:03
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I installed the zx6r shock I've had sitting around for a while today. I was thinking, couple hours, no sweat. Instead I spent most of the day getting it done. Its not quite finished as I still need to install the battery which requires finding something to elevate it about an inch over stock (and probably figure out how to retain it with zip ties or something now), reinstall the tip over switch, figure out what to do with the mudguard so it doesn't interfere and just double check everything is torqued right etc. That can wait for tomorrow though. I did do a test fit with the battery sitting in there on the shock reservoir and it fits, but the bumper on the seat will need to be cut for a better fit. The downside is I hacked the poo poo out of the battery box - measure zero times cut 8 times it seems. For anyone planning to do this: A MUCH better way to do it in retrospect would be to remove the battery box, mount the shock and then figure out exactly where to cut, as I could have left about 90% of the box there, as opposed to the roughly 60% left currently. When you're installing the shock, it hits the battery box in places where it doesn't actually need to be cut. Once its bolted in, it only contacts a small section of the box. Its a fair bit more work to remove all the tail section etc but well worth it. I started doing this but realised that it wouldn't make much difference as I'd already started cutting. Its looks pretty bad - I cut out a bit more than this guy did http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=62263. I don't care too much, it will still hold the battery fine and the entire undertail section pops up on ebay for about 25-40$ from time to time so meh. Im considering cutting off the rest of the tool box compartment as well for aesthetics now. So far haven't ridden it, but even just sitting on it it feels firmer. Previously it felt under sprung like a big soft cushion whereas now it feels a lot firmer. In addition the new shock looks to be a tiny bit (maybe a 1/4 inch or so) longer than the stocker, so I'm really curious to see what its gonna feel like riding it tomorrow. When I bought these I thought they were the same length, but side by side definitely a little longer. I would post pics but for some reason my camera didn't save photos to the memory card but used its internal storage instead and I don't have the USB cable for it handy. Tomorrow the plan is to hoist up the front and do the fork springs. Bought some .90 springs and 20w oil from sonic springs (if anyone else is considering this, they are 20$ or so cheaper than racetech, same quality from what I read. Fast shipping and their customer service is top notch!) so that should be interesting. I just hope I don't mess anything up as badly as the battery box cut today. Once all this is done going to take it to a local shop to get the sag set right both ends and get the rear dialed in. Does anyone know a good place on the front end to put straps? Triples are out for obvious reasons and the best place so far I've seen is the frame around the top of the motor.
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Nov 14, 2010 02:47
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What are everyone's experiences with aftermarket windscreens? I remember the Double Bubble being the screen of choice in the Ninja 250 crowd. I want something that will keep some of the wind off my head when riding on the highway.
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Nov 14, 2010 03:16
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I'd hoist from the frame around the headstock, like you mention. Or if you have a gen1, you could do it through the frame. I've never had much luck with aftermarket windshields, it seems like the double bubbles just direct it straight at my face. I prefer stock because the windblast gives my shoulders something to lean into.
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Nov 14, 2010 04:17
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Ride report on the new shock! I took it for a spin on some fun local roads. First thing I noticed is that it handles the lovely roads (inner city Houston .. montrose to be exact) around here MUCH better. I was a little surprised so I started purposely riding over uneven pavement etc. Where I had stood up previously it was actually comfortable sitting down. I hit some curvy roads at a relaxed pace and noticed that I didnt actually feel anything from the rear. I'd never had a real comparison to the old shock before (first bike) but now realise it was pretty sloppy - moved around way too much and had really, really lovely compression/rebound. This is much much nicer. I didn't push it much as it was just a shake down cruise but I'm super impressed so far. Unfortunately it also looks like I need to finder a more compact (shorter) battery. Has anyone here tried the LiPo packs on ebay?
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Nov 14, 2010 23:37
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What's the deal with an SV1000? Would they be a good upgrade from a Sv650? Is it basically the same bike with a bigger engine? I read on Wiki that the SV1000 comes with gsxr forks, but they look like non upside down forks. Would it be possible to swap later models forks onto the SV1000?
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Nov 17, 2010 01:43
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From everything I hear, they make better touring bikes, but not as good sport bikes since they're more powerful, but also bigger and heavier. Basically the same issues people have on the V-Strom vs. the Wee-Strom. (Not that they're bad bikes.)
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Nov 17, 2010 02:25
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Coredump posted:What's the deal with an SV1000? Would they be a good upgrade from a Sv650? Is it basically the same bike with a bigger engine? I read on Wiki that the SV1000 comes with gsxr forks, but they look like non upside down forks. Would it be possible to swap later models forks onto the SV1000? I wish I could provide more insight as I just bought one, but... I just bought one. I've literally ridden it home and that's it. Hope to get some quality time in this weekend if possible. Apparently the front end is not the same one as the GSXR600, as I too read on Wiki. The only confirmation I have on this is from the guy I bought it from though. I believe you can still do the swap like you can with the 650. Its got a torque curve like a DC motor. I can't wait to get back on mine.
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Nov 17, 2010 03:24
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Well, I'm an idiot who is going to be handing my bike over to a professional to get fixed, but I'd like to ride it there rather than having it towed. I thought I had a bad starter solenoid, as there was no click when I pushed the button but the starter motor turned fine when I shorted the battery to it, and also would start just fine by a push start. However, when I took out the battery to fully recharge it and checked the main fuse and starter solenoid wiring, I must have broken something. Where the bike ran just fine before, it's now completely dead like the main fuse had blown, but the main fuse seems fine. I'm not quite sure where to start, but if I get it running again I'd just ride it to the shop around here to get the starter solenoid replaced by someone who won't break more poo poo. Any idea what part of the wiring could have failed to cause this symptom? Edit: The connector that goes into the top of the starter solenoid looks iffy, possibly melted. How much of a pain would this be to fix? Where does the other end of this connector go? Edit Again: This fucker looks to go really deep into the wiring harness. What could make a connector suddenly go bad? This connector seems to be the most likely point of failure. Time to try to find a multimeter. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Nov 20, 2010 |
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Nov 20, 2010 00:39
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Hey SV types -- I am in a buying mood -- what is thought of this ad? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/2067601391.html Me: beginner, mature (33) brand new rider with lots of car race track experience looking to ride motorbikes on said tracks ASAP.
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Nov 21, 2010 03:16
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Weinertron, yes, check that connector. See if it's doing what it should when you hit the starter button. That suit would be fine for racing, but did you mean to link to a different ad? This is the SV thread, after all 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Nov 21, 2010 |
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Nov 21, 2010 04:30
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Z3n posted:Weinertron, yes, check that connector. See if it's doing what it should when you hit the starter button. Oops multiple cl windows. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/2058662588.html Ooops post expired. At any rate, it was streetable track prepped SV with some goodies for $2k... Blooot fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Nov 21, 2010 |
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Nov 21, 2010 09:34
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Finally going to get around to upgrading the SV a bit. Just picked up a zx10r rear shock off eBay, watching for a good deal on a GSXR front end. Should make my commuter a bit better suited for the mountain roads of TN and get it ready for track days in the spring.
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Dec 1, 2010 00:50
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So after thinking about it more I think the GSXR swap would be a complete overkill for my mostly street SV, don't need the aggressive riding position for commuting and I'm not sure if I do enough track days to justify the extra cash over the other options. What are people's thoughts on Racetech internals vs Ricor Intiminators? Anyone running or recommend running both? Both seem like they would be an easy afternoon install and would really help the overall front end feel.
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Dec 3, 2010 19:08
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Do one or the other. I'd probably go with the Ricors, easier to install and very favorably reviewed.
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Dec 3, 2010 19:16
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Endless Mike sold me his unused pair of Ricors. I didn't change the springs but I did put in the AMSOIL Shock Therapy. Either way, they were a snap to install. Honestly, I'm a slow, lovely rider and the only difference I noticed was improved braking. I'm sure a better rider would be able to get more out of them.
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Dec 3, 2010 23:58
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I have a pair of drag or dirt bike bars on my sv650 now, and I think they're just too far forward to be comfortable for me. The PO installed them, as well as heated grips (which I love). Is it feasible to replace them with the stock bars (or something else), so that I get a more upright riding position? Or would this be a massive PITA?
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Dec 5, 2010 19:00
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Blooot posted:Oops multiple cl windows. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/2058662588.html back up! http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/mcy/2095543455.html I've been watching SVs on CL for a while now, and a week later this seems like an even better deal. Again, I'm a newb looking for a bike to quickly transition from street to lapping on race tracks, which I won't sweat too heavily dropping or laying down. 
Blooot fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Dec 6, 2010 04:59
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What are your goals for it? Do you want to race or are you just looking for a fun trackbike? That's not a bad deal, not a great one either...there's nothing that really grabs me about it to make me say that you should jump on it, the suspension mods are the budget ones, it doesn't have an exhaust or any other neat mods that justify 2k for a crashed SV. I'd probably go for something like this instead: http://www.socalsvriders.org/forums/showthread.php?t=31006
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Dec 6, 2010 07:56
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Z3n posted:What are your goals for it? Do you want to race or are you just looking for a fun trackbike? That's not a bad deal, not a great one either...there's nothing that really grabs me about it to make me say that you should jump on it, the suspension mods are the budget ones, it doesn't have an exhaust or any other neat mods that justify 2k for a crashed SV. Thanks for the response. Looking for a fun trackbike -- I have no plans of racing. What would be a price that would make it a great deal? Definitely not looking for any power mods at the moment, since I am just starting, and a stock exhaust best suits my living situation (try to be a thoughtful neighbor!). I am looking local in the Bay Area only too, but I will have some people down in SoCal that might be able to bring a bike up for me in the next week. Most SVs I've seen on CL have been the $3k+ range, which is why a $2000 jumps out at me.
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Dec 6, 2010 17:31
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Blooot posted:Thanks for the response. Unfortunately you sort of missed the post season rush of bikes. The SV market is a little funny at the moment...you've got the awesome built superbikes that are upgraded to hell and back (and in the 3-4k range) and then you have the production bikes or the bikes sold by street riders in the 2kish range. As you can see from the SoCal SV rider ad, you'll pretty much pay 2k for an decent gen one SV, what makes it a good deal is how many mods are stacked on to it. As the one in your area doesn't have a lot of mods, it's not a deal I'd jump on. That's not to say you probably wouldn't be perfectly happy with it, it's just that it's about as stock as an SV can get, springs, fork oil and a gsx-r rear shock are around 200$ in upgrades. Unless he had catalyst rebuild and revalve the rear shock, when it's 300$ worth of upgrades, but the biggest thing that I would want on a SV that I'm buying is a good aftermarket shock and a GSX-R front end. The rest is essentially irrelevant. If you're not going to be racing, you should run the GSX-R front end because it's not like it's going to put you up a class or anything. That M4 on the SocalSVriders bike is basically unobtanium these days too, and makes the best power (barring the other unobtanium pipe, the Gen 1 Leo Vince), so if you did decide to start going the power route for fun, it'd already be ready to go.
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Dec 6, 2010 18:12
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Well I changed my clutch cable, forgot to oil it before putting it on and I had to figure out the routing after I took the old one off. So I tried my best to make sure my routing was close enough. I did put some WD40 on the cable after I bought the cable lube tool. I'm going to have to watch the cable to see for any wear from improper routing. I've also cleaned out a whole load of gunk from where the clutch cable perch was. Probably a solid 1/8cup of gunk including gunk around where the chain rests near the sprocket. I'm going to try and replace my brake fluid today and bleed it. But is it okay if I just continally bleed it while topping off with new fluid while I wait for the color to change? My brakepads also look low compared to a car. At what point should I change them?
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Dec 15, 2010 18:55
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HClChicken posted:Well I changed my clutch cable, forgot to oil it before putting it on and I had to figure out the routing after I took the old one off. So I tried my best to make sure my routing was close enough. I did put some WD40 on the cable after I bought the cable lube tool. Most modern cables don't need to be lubed, they're coated from the factory, so I wouldn't be too concerned about that. It's fine to flush out the old fluid by continually bleeding it/waiting for the color to change. The pads should have an indent or a cutout where when it hits that cutout, you need to change them. How much pad is left when compared to the thickness of the backing plate?
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Dec 15, 2010 19:26
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Z3n posted:Most modern cables don't need to be lubed, they're coated from the factory, so I wouldn't be too concerned about that. I did the bleeding, but my helper let the drainage tube disconnect, which put air in the line. I've tried my best to make sure there is no more air, did a test run which the brakes seemed to work well. I'm going to give a couple of days before I do the rear brake bleeding/ replacement. there appears to be 1.5 times of brake compared to the backing.
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Dec 16, 2010 03:41
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That's a fine amount of pad to have. There should be a groove somewhere in the pad material that'll let you know when you're getting close to needing to replace them.
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Dec 16, 2010 03:43
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How do I get a curvy SV to start in subzero temperatures? It's been standing in the snow for a few weeks but I need it to travel to my parents for Christmas. Shovelled the snow off and the battery's fine, surprisingly. However the starter just turns over endlessly while the engine never kicks in. There's plenty of petrol in the tank and all permutations of choke/throttle don't make any difference.
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Dec 21, 2010 11:24
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if you can get it indoors overnight and let it warm up it should start, failing that i have used to use a heatgun on the sump, oilfilter, through the radiator and on the cylinders. but its tedious and doesn't always work. dont use a heatgun on the clutch cover, its plastic and prone to warping
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Dec 21, 2010 17:47
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Had about 400 miles on my new Dunlop Q2s and I ran over a 4" nail. All the way through the center of the rear. Expensive rear end nail but at least I didn't crash I guess.
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Dec 22, 2010 06:03
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At least SV's use the relatively cheap size of 160 for a rear tire. It would be truly painful to replace a 190 rear.
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Dec 23, 2010 03:40
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