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KaosPV posted:Thank you baka baka, now it makes sense. Haha, yes I did. This is how it all starts!
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# ? Nov 8, 2010 18:20 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:26 |
I have been considering upgrading my stock pickups on my Ibanez Rg2550. The problem is, I have no idea what to even consider. I mostly play instrumental post-rock music that ranges from quiet/clean guitar parts to loud/distorted parts. Anyone have any suggestions?
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 01:51 |
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How much are you looking to spend, what is the rest of your signal chain like, and can you provide some examples of clean and distorted sounds that are close to what you'd like?
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 02:08 |
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I'm a dumb babby who has never used a drum machine before. I tour frequently, and for the stuff I've started doing lately, I will be needing a drum machine soon. Something that allows for easy controllability, versatility, and that I can change on the fly would be excellent. I suppose I probably have to compromise between these three things. Can anyone make a recommendation? It'd also be handy if it wasn't very large, as it needs to share space in a suitcase.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 02:56 |
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RobattoJesus posted:My current piano-playing setup: Yamaha P85 -> Macbook Pro w/ Pianoteq -> Headphones. From what I've read, those speakers blow rear end. That said, headphones do paint an entirely different picture than do speakers. I don't know about pianoteq, but if it has an EQ, you could try optimizing the sound for your speakers, or just get better ones. I'm looking at these bad boys for very simple monitors.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 03:33 |
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I have no experience with any of this but I'm thinking about buying a used axiom 25. I'll probably pick it up from craigslist so I'll have the option of checking it out during pick up. How do I make sure I'm not getting a bunk piece of equipment given that I have no experience with midi controllers? Does the axiom have any known issues that I should be looking out for? Should I be considering other options or is the axiom as good a place to start as any? Thanks.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 06:32 |
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does anyone know of a way to interact with garageband files at all on a PC? I don't even need to be able to edit them. I only really need to see the layout. Basically I am getting vocals recorded in garageband from my band members on a macbook, but I need to be able to see how they are layered to replicate the layout on my own non-apple computer.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 08:30 |
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Alain Perdrix posted:I'm a dumb babby who has never used a drum machine before. I tour frequently, and for the stuff I've started doing lately, I will be needing a drum machine soon. Something that allows for easy controllability, versatility, and that I can change on the fly would be excellent. I suppose I probably have to compromise between these three things. Can anyone make a recommendation? It'd also be handy if it wasn't very large, as it needs to share space in a suitcase. You could try an Alesis SR-16. Each main programme has a variation and 2 fills to go from A->B->A, which can be controlled by stepping through a simple footswitch, iirc. Easy to use overall, weight and size is about that of a large pocketbook.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 10:22 |
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Pimp Cauldron posted:does anyone know of a way to interact with garageband files at all on a PC? I don't even need to be able to edit them. I only really need to see the layout. why not just export every track as a WAV and bring them all up in a multitrack editor on your PC? You'd have to work on syncing them all, but at least they'd be there.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 15:44 |
Ferrous Wheel posted:How much are you looking to spend, what is the rest of your signal chain like, and can you provide some examples of clean and distorted sounds that are close to what you'd like? Cleans - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36U4ez7AzKA Distorted - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxyPc0O5U1Q Thanks for the assistance.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 16:35 |
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Alright, well for that setup/sound I'd recommend a relatively bright neck pickup and a vintage-type humbucker in the bridge. The RG 2550 also has a pretty specific look so I suppose my recommendations should keep that in mind. One possible GFS set would be a Dream 180 in the neck and "Fat Pat" in the bridge. The Dream 180 is a bit brighter than most neck humbuckers and it has twelve screw poles so it's easy to get the balance you want. It also comes in all black, which is good. The "Fat Pat" is just GFS's standard vintage type humbucker and should do fine for a bridge distorted sound with some definition while not being too harsh mixed with the neck. If the RG is not presently wired for just a neck/bridge combination I highly recommend you set it up for that while you're installing the new pickups. GFS has lots of other interesting options and they're nearly all dirt cheap. If you feel like spending more, a Dimarzio Humbucker From Hell in the neck and 36th Anniversary PAF in the bridge would be my recommendation. Humbucker From Hell is theoretically designed to sound similar to a P-90 in the neck position. The 36th Anniversary PAF is Dimarzio's general-duty humbucker. An EJ Custom might also be a good neck choice since it's designed to have more of a single-coil character. The really cool thing about the Dimarzios is that they reduce string pull as well; this isn't the biggest deal but on a Floyd-equipped guitar with super low action it can't hurt. Both options are easily within your budget. I haven't mentioned middle single coils because like I said above, my main recommendation would be to wire just for two humbuckers or at least the option. You could leave the original single in but change the switching, get a new single from either manufacturer, or get a new pickguard without the centre position cut out (plenty of pickguard makers do RG style guards). A cursory google suggests that both bands use humbucker-equipped guitars, so I think I'm probably right that the H/H middle switch position will help a lot. Also, it's likely any decent pair of PAF sound-alikes will work for you, I'm just suggesting the most interesting options to me. I think that neck humbuckers are often too dark to use on their own so brightened versions are preferable- there's so much low end energy at that part of the string it's hard to get too little (imho). Hope there's something of use in all them words.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 18:27 |
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VeXoR posted:I have no experience with any of this but I'm thinking about buying a used axiom 25. I'll probably pick it up from craigslist so I'll have the option of checking it out during pick up. How do I make sure I'm not getting a bunk piece of equipment given that I have no experience with midi controllers? Does the axiom have any known issues that I should be looking out for? Should I be considering other options or is the axiom as good a place to start as any? I also have no experience with this, but the discussion I had over at the Electronic Music Megathread was good. For older models, apparently they have click-knobs, which really really suck. Watch out for that.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 18:28 |
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Underflow posted:You could try an Alesis SR-16. Each main programme has a variation and 2 fills to go from A->B->A, which can be controlled by stepping through a simple footswitch, iirc. Easy to use overall, weight and size is about that of a large pocketbook. The SR-16 is definitely a fine basic drum machine, and it has a fine set of samples and decent enough builtin patterns. If you want something more exciting and electronic sounding (why exactly do you want a drum machine instead of a live drummer, btw?) the old Korg Electribes are great. I have an ER-1 and its just fantastic, and making new patterns is much easier than the SR-16. Also, you get to make the sounds with a basic drum synth. If you want a lot of fun on an instrument thats pretty easy to learn, I'd go for the ER-1, you should be able to find one for under $150. If you wanna just set it and forget it, the SR-16 will be a safe cheap choice at around $80. Or you could just do like me and get em both, that way you have the nice live samples on the Alesis unit and the ease of programming and creative possibilities of the Korg. Of course, there are other options. Boss makes some fine lower end drum machines that are pretty akin to the SR-16 as I understand. And if you're loaded, the Elektron Machinedrum is just about the most popular thing on the whole internet
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 20:17 |
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Who makes good quality guitar cases and gig bags? I've seen some really nice cases by Mono, but $189 for a case is not realistic for me right now.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 20:48 |
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burritonegro posted:Who makes good quality guitar cases and gig bags? I've seen some really nice cases by Mono, but $189 for a case is not realistic for me right now. How rugged do you want? Rondo cases are completely decent - I've used one of their hard bass cases and my roommate has a soft bag for his mando. I'd say they're good quality, and definitely a good value.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 21:16 |
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Thanks - I'm looking for a soft case with as much padding and protection as possible, so I can carry it on my back. Alvarez's classical guitar cases are just right, except they're for acoustics and classicals: http://www.amazon.com/Alvarez-FC2-Acoustic-Guitar-Hygrometer/dp/B0018TKBEM the tingler fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Nov 9, 2010 |
# ? Nov 9, 2010 21:31 |
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Maybe try the EG-20. $25. It looks like it has a ton of padding. I haven't used one personally, but if I needed to buy a new guitar bag, I'd probably get one.
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# ? Nov 9, 2010 21:47 |
Ferrous Wheel posted:
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# ? Nov 10, 2010 00:15 |
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F spaced is the poles are set a little wider mostly for guitars with trems.DiMarzio FAQ posted:What is F-spacing?
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# ? Nov 10, 2010 02:14 |
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Beaten on F-Spacing, so about the rest: Bridge+Neck gives you (barring fancy custom wiring) both pickups, full on. That's what happens in the middle position in most Gibsons, and the position I suspect is being used in the samples you sent. The middle position on the RG is just the single coil- it's a fine sound for some things but it's not what's in your samples and most strat players don't even use it very much. The other thing about that third position is that neck pickups are often muddy; too much low end and not enough definition. They also tend to be louder than the bridge pickup even when the windings are compensated. Bridge pickups by contrast tent to be shrill and piercing, and in some frustrating cases kind of quiet. That's why in the 80s everyone was in love with hugely overwound bridge pickups that could really smack the front end of an amp. Given that conventional sets often suffer from these problems, the most usable sound can often be achieved by turning both pickups on and maybe adjusting their respective levels if you have independent volume controls like most Gibsons do. Your RG isn't really routed for fully independent volume and tone knobs, so the ideal solution (in my opinion) is to choose pickups that are better designed so that they're more usable both individually and as a pair, without excessive knob adjustments. The sets I'm recommending are chosen with all of that in mind, but many other options exist. To be a little more clear about what pickups do: They sit under the strings at different points and so "hear" slightly different content from the same vibrations (different frequency balance, harmonics, attack and decay characteristics). Selecting a pickup sends the resulting signal through your guitar's volume and tone controls and then into the rest of the signal chain (pedals, amp). Does that make sense? Edit: You want F-spaced pickups.
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# ? Nov 10, 2010 02:17 |
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mrbradlymrmartin posted:drum machine stuff Thanks for the recommendations, guys. I'll look into the SR-16 and the ER-1. As for not using a live drummer: it's twice as expensive to tour with a live drummer as it is for me to tour on my own. I travel light, and turn profits on tours by not expending a lot of cash on lodgings and stuff like that. It works out really well. I would definitely take a live drummer if I could fit one in my suitcase, though.
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# ? Nov 10, 2010 08:40 |
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Does anyone know of any program or utility that can tell me what note something is? For instance, I make a lot of home made instruments (rain boxes, PVC type stuff etc.) and I record a lot of it on my computer. I know there are devices you can buy that will tell you if something is in key, but I was wondering if there was a computer program or utility that can take a recording (or take a mic stream) and tell me what exactly the notes are or the freq? I'm sorry this is a poorly worded question.
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# ? Nov 10, 2010 18:50 |
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Woofington posted:Does anyone know of any program or utility that can tell me what note something is? You can use Capo to do that - but only if you're on a Mac. http://supermegaultragroovy.com/products/Capo/
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# ? Nov 10, 2010 18:58 |
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Woofington posted:Does anyone know of any program or utility that can tell me what note something is? There are probably simpler solutions available for something like this, but if you know how to use MAX/MSP, there is a freeware program made by the same guy called Pd (Pure Data, or "Public Domain") This is an object based visual "programming" environment, and one of the objects should be able to take an incoming audio stream and analyze it for pitch data. It would take a little bit of reading to get the fundamentals of the software figured out, but you may find if you are at all interested in digital music that your interests take you to something like MAX/MSP or Pd eventually anyway. http://puredata.info Edit: alternately, get a cheap digital keyboard and just play the note that sounds closest. It won't help you tune as exactly as a machine unless you have a good ear but it will provide reference pitch.
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 00:59 |
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Can anyone give me some advice on internalizing rhythm? Ideally I'd like to be able to pick a beat/tempo in my head, keep the beat in my head while playing, singing, or counting out in my head smaller and bigger notes (additions and subdivisions of beats). Right now I'm just able to keep a beat going (ONE two three four ONE...). I've been practicing keeping different tempos and counts (ONE two ONE two, ONE two three ONE... etc) but I tend to have trouble with anything slower than ~80 bpm, and I always speed up. Clearly practice is the best thing for it, but if there's any advice you can give me, or if you have good rhythm and can describe how it feels/how you experience it to the best of your ability, I'd really appreciate it.
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 06:48 |
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^^^ Playing with different types of metronomes might help but really it is just a practice type thing.Manky posted:You can use Capo to do that - but only if you're on a Mac. I don't have a mac sadly . Crudus posted:There are probably simpler solutions available for something like this, but if you know how to use MAX/MSP, there is a freeware program made by the same guy called Pd (Pure Data, or "Public Domain") This is an object based visual "programming" environment, and one of the objects should be able to take an incoming audio stream and analyze it for pitch data. Crap this is really complicated, I am so confused. Well thanks I'll try and figure this out. I have a terrible ear unfortunately. There aren't any simpler programs out there?
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 07:23 |
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Drizzle 34 posted:Can anyone give me some advice on internalizing rhythm? Elementary Training for Musicians has lots of rhythm and counting exercises, although they're mixed in with a lot of melody and conducting stuff. If all you want is rhythm I'd go for a beginning percussion book. Also, taking up any percussion instrument (including piano or other keyboard) would likely help since it requires you to play different rhythms with each hand. Crudus posted:http://puredata.info Do you by any chance go to SFU? And for Woofington, Photoscore might work for some of your needs. Otherwise, you might need to resign yourself to recording samples and using a histogram or spectrogram to look at frequency content and compare that to your target pitches. The problem with found objects is that they often have a lot of inharmonicity, and that can confuse software that's designed to isolate a single pitch.
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 08:15 |
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Ferrous Wheel posted:Do you by any chance go to SFU? I am going to check out that link but I have no idea what the rest of your post meant. I am a hobbyist musician, haven't been to school for any of it, just do it for fun so I have no idea what inharmonicity, spectrograms, frequency content, target pitches etc are...
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 10:20 |
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Woofington posted:^^^ Playing with different types of metronomes might help but really it is just a practice type thing. There's a phone app called Gstrings. It's supposed to be a guitar tuner, but play any sustained note to it and it will show you the letter note and the frequency. As with all guitar tuners, though, the note needs some sustain for the tuner to catch up.
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 15:53 |
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Me and a friend have two songs that we've finished and so far we've been using Guitar Pro with RSE to make the drums (we don't know any drummers sadly), and it obviously sounds very computer of it so I was wondering what program can make some (more) realistic drum sounds. A plus if you can take what you've written in guitar pro and transfer it to the new drum program.
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 17:31 |
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Drizzle 34: It helps to add some sort of kinesthetic(sp?) motion, like, for example, tap your foot, or bob your head. Ferrous Wheel: No, University of Montana Woofington: I'd say your best bet then would be to get an instrument of definite pitch, like a piano or keyboard, that you could just directly compare against. IE, hit your PVC drum, then play the closest note on the piano, etc. With instruments that are difficult to identify, your audience will likely have a hard time identifying them too, so you don't have to worry as much about being out of tune with people you are playing with (take a snare drum with the snares on or a shaker, for example. They are recognized for their timbre, not their definite pitch.)
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 17:34 |
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Woofington posted:I am going to check out that link but I have no idea what the rest of your post meant. I am a hobbyist musician, haven't been to school for any of it, just do it for fun so I have no idea what inharmonicity, spectrograms, frequency content, target pitches etc are... Basically objects that aren't designed as musical instruments can have a lot going on in the sound, instead of basically being a clear note, so software might have trouble working out what aspect of the sound it should be listening to. He's suggesting using some stuff to visualise the frequencies in your sounds so you can compare them to those of your target pitch (the note you want to tune to), and tweak until yours matches up. You could try something like a software guitar tuner (I found this but I haven't used it or anything) and see how well it does. It really depends on the character of the sound your instrument produces, but it's worth a try!
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# ? Nov 11, 2010 19:21 |
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I have a question about the Boss Loop Stations. I was looking at the list of features on the RC-2 and the RC-20XL Loop Stations and they seemed pretty similar. Basically I was wondering if there are major differences between the two or if the RC-2 is just the same thing in a more compact package. Is the RC-20XL so much different that it's worth paying a considerable amount more? I basically wanted a decent looper so I can record some bass lines to play along with because I have a lack of people to practice with. Plus I might try and record some stuff for fun.
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# ? Nov 14, 2010 10:10 |
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I possess a 1973 Carvin TM565 Solid State Amp as seen in this picture: But I'm contemplating selling it because it's way too big for anything I need. It's in pretty good shape from what I can tell. Any idea what something like this is worth? Any info I could be looking at would be appreciated as well.
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# ? Nov 15, 2010 23:17 |
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I have a Crate GFX212T guitar amp that I didn't touch for 5 or so years. I tried using it today, but when I plugged in my guitar, no sound came out of the speakers. The amp turns on and whatnot, but no sound from any cable that goes in. I'm pretty sure this issue was why I stopped using it in the first place, but I don't remember because I switched to primarily playing bass and then acoustic guitar for the past few years. Is this thing worth getting fixed? Any idea how much it will cost? Is it something stupid I should probably do myself?
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# ? Nov 16, 2010 02:07 |
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I'm pretty set on buying this GGG booster kit: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com...68044a841b3e85a And have a question regarding the actual wiring. (pdf incoming) http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_cb1_lo.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a I'm never going to use the battery snap -- can I omit it and the pedal will work fine, or will I have to wire it differently to make up for the lack of the battery snap being wired in? edit: also, would 2 green LEDs wired together be usable instead of a single red? Obviously I'm not keen on electronics yet... Sarah Cenia fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Nov 16, 2010 |
# ? Nov 16, 2010 03:29 |
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Achtane posted:I'm never going to use the battery snap -- can I omit it and the pedal will work fine, or will I have to wire it differently to make up for the lack of the battery snap being wired in? Achtane posted:also, would 2 green LEDs wired together be usable instead of a single red? Obviously I'm not keen on electronics yet... Hope this helps.
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# ? Nov 16, 2010 17:20 |
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Yeah, thanks a lot. I want to learn this stuff so I don't have to ask terrible questions all the time!
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# ? Nov 16, 2010 20:36 |
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So I've transitioned from Reason on my PC to Reason on my new macbook pro, but there aren't any OSX drivers for the Creative external audio card I was using. The time has come to get a real audio interface, and from reading threads here the Saffire 6 seems like a good choice. My question is -which monitor speakers should I buy in the price range of $200-300? And (this is the dumb part of the question) how does the audio interface connect to the speakers? The line outputs on the back of it?
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# ? Nov 17, 2010 09:57 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 02:26 |
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I guess this is a dumb question: I have a long signal chain 6-10 pedals I'd say they all run through to a single amp. I'd like to split the chain so to speak, being able to play say distortion/OD/etc on one side, but other things like wah or envelope filter on another side, I'd also like to mix them together. I've been looking at A/B boxes but I'm not sure how I'd "join them back together" so to speak to go to the amp.
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# ? Nov 17, 2010 18:50 |