Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


MediumWellDone posted:

It sounds like there is no shutter. I reckon that would also be the cause of the light leaks. Try covering the lenses between shots, unless of course you like the effect.

Edit: I should have asked this before. I just picked ground glass screen for my Super 23 and there was 5 part extension tube set included. The thing is, I don't know how to get the expose correctly when using them. Is there a rule for f-stop compensation that I can fall back on? I have the urge to take macro shots of yellow daisies that I must sate as soon as possible.
F number is focal length over distance. Double the focal length and exposure is halved, so expose up 1 stop.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

HolaMundo
Apr 22, 2004
uragay

sponge would own me in soccer :(
About a month or two ago I found my dad's old Minolta X-300 and got a bit nostalgic since I haven't had a roll developed in like forever.
The scans aren't great, but here are some photos I liked.











HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Just ordered a shitload of AP400 and LP100. Wooo!

Believe it or not, I'm almost done with that case of AP400 I ordered a while ago.

MediumWellDone
Oct 4, 2010

おいしいよね〜
ソースがね〜
濃厚だね〜
Thanks GWBBQ.
That seems pretty obvious, but I was under the impression it was a bit more complex than that for medium format lens. Anyway I'll do some tests when I get some free time and the sun is out.
This far through Autumn and it's already dark when I finish work :smith:

milquetoast child
Jun 27, 2003

literally
Here's some stuff I shot in Hawaii and on Halloween. I almost don't want to shoot digital any more other than like "photo shoots" or something. I'm really digging Film. I still get it developed at Walgreens and just put on CD (no prints).


Click here for the full 1215x1800 image.



Click here for the full 1440x972 image.



Click here for the full 1800x1215 image.


This one is NSFW, but no "real" nudity or anything. It's a naked guy passed out on a matress underneath some spray painted naughty words.

https://wi.somethingawful.com/96/962cc716cbd3b0bbdc7867f4604a3de4a621f8e5.jpg

milquetoast child fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Nov 3, 2010

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

HolaMundo posted:


This one is awesome.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
My first roll of Velvia and the first roll of chrome since my E6 days.







The riverboat graveyard near Dawson City, Yukon, all taken a bit after midnight close to the summer solstice. The light is very nice.

Jook
Jul 16, 2002
I've been looking at some cheap film cameras on keh -- any suggestions? It seems the Canon EOS types are cheap (because they don't look.. retro?). Would I be able to throw my 50 1.8 on one? Or would I have more fun buying an old Canon FD and cheap lenses off craigslist? Thanks.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

The only EOS I've had extended experience with is the 50 (Elan II), and it is awesome. Don't pay more than a hundred for the body. Your EF 50/1.8 will function on it (AF and metering).

Already Bored
Mar 5, 2004
I HAVE HIGHER ETHICAL AND MORALE VALUES. DID I MENTION I LIKE COCK
I've got a few questions;

1) What's the best way to transport film. Do you guys transport them in those little film cases? Do you organise them by type, by shot / unshot or some other way?

2) Does anyone have a good film workflow. I'm looking to scan all my negatives and manage them the same as my digital photos, but what's the best way to organise, catalogue and store the physical negatives and/or any proofs, etc.

3) I've been using a Polaroid back for my Hasseblad and using Fuji's film. I'm noticing that they bend very easily. Is there a decent way to store / transport these prints to keep them from bending / warping/

Thanks.

Moist von Lipwig
Oct 28, 2006

by FactsAreUseless
Tortured By Flan

Already Bored posted:

I've got a few questions;

1) What's the best way to transport film. Do you guys transport them in those little film cases? Do you organise them by type, by shot / unshot or some other way?

2) Does anyone have a good film workflow. I'm looking to scan all my negatives and manage them the same as my digital photos, but what's the best way to organise, catalogue and store the physical negatives and/or any proofs, etc.

3) I've been using a Polaroid back for my Hasseblad and using Fuji's film. I'm noticing that they bend very easily. Is there a decent way to store / transport these prints to keep them from bending / warping/

Thanks.

1) I just throw that stuff in my bag, I don't know what you're shooting but with 120 you can tell what's been poo poo easily. I usually keep shot film in a ziploc bag and unshot I just carry around in propacks/boxes.

2) I've found the killer combo for scanning is to use vuescan/silverfast and scan to RAW and import into lightroom. From there you can use meta tags to add date shot, camera, location etc as well as touching up dust/hair/scratches. It's pretty much the best of both worlds of photography.

3) no experience with Polaroid but could you put them in a 4x5 negative box? I can really think of something more suited to the purpose :)

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
So that red shifted roll I shot. Heres the results ( about half the roll was unusably unexposed and it seems my scanner has a dead pixel :/ )






Dads
Dec 14, 2007

Gnomad posted:

My first roll of Velvia and the first roll of chrome since my E6 days.

The riverboat graveyard near Dawson City, Yukon, all taken a bit after midnight close to the summer solstice. The light is very nice.

The shots and light is nice, but you need to work on your scans.... A touch more contrast and a touch less magenta

Pompous Rhombus
Mar 11, 2007

Already Bored posted:

I've got a few questions;

1) What's the best way to transport film. Do you guys transport them in those little film cases? Do you organise them by type, by shot / unshot or some other way?

2) Does anyone have a good film workflow. I'm looking to scan all my negatives and manage them the same as my digital photos, but what's the best way to organise, catalogue and store the physical negatives and/or any proofs, etc.

3) I've been using a Polaroid back for my Hasseblad and using Fuji's film. I'm noticing that they bend very easily. Is there a decent way to store / transport these prints to keep them from bending / warping/

Thanks.

1) Usually it just rattles around in my bag when I'm out for a shoot. Ziploc bags are good because they keep out dust/grit, but I haven't had a problem yet so I just use them for transporting film (mostly just to keep it together) when I fly. In those situations, I always make sure I have a separate bag for my high speed film that I can hand to the X-ray dudes for hand inspection. When I'm out shooting I toss shot rolls in a different compartment as the unshot ones, but since the leader is gone it's not like I can mistake the two. I'd like to get one or two of these, but it'd be a total luxury item. Nihon :allears:

2) Scanning is tedious, there's really no way around it (unless you pay to have it done, or have a $1000+ Coolscan with one of those feeder attachments, that would be awesome). I keep my negatives in Printfile sleeves, but have no real system for referring to where they are by the scanned digital file. I just know where everything is (my digital storage workflow is similar). I want to get some binders/boxes for the sleeves rather than just leaving them stacked in roughly chronological order in a cardboard box, but I have some oversized ones that make finding a binder not as easy. Ideally I'd like to have them by year (or multi-year, for the earlier periods when I shot mostly digital), and chronologically within that. On the label part of each sheet, I write the location/subject, date, and camera used.

3) Seconding the 4x5 film box suggestion, I've got mine all chilling in there. The biggest problem I have in the field is keeping them from sticking to each other when the goo is still on them.


Jook posted:

I've been looking at some cheap film cameras on keh -- any suggestions? It seems the Canon EOS types are cheap (because they don't look.. retro?). Would I be able to throw my 50 1.8 on one? Or would I have more fun buying an old Canon FD and cheap lenses off craigslist? Thanks.

I'd go with an EOS body; you can keep using all of your (EF) lenses. The 50mm is awesome on a film body, I kept an Elan II (not a particularly small camera, but light because it's mostly plastic) with the 50mm in my bookbag as a "take anywhere" camera for a few months.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
It's hard to beat an EOS as a film camera. They work well, expose well, and the Rebels are almost disposable. I found one at a thrift store for $1.50 languishing in the P&S bucket. My car camera is a EOS A2.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

Sadi posted:


Those turned out rather awesome actually. This one especially. Do I remember correctly that you accidentally shot color film with a red filter?

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people

spf3million posted:

Those turned out rather awesome actually. This one especially. Do I remember correctly that you accidentally shot color film with a red filter?

No, accidentally shot color film loaded backwards. Aka emulsion facing the wrong way.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Oh ok, I guess that makes more sense.

Gnomad
Aug 12, 2008
My latest thrift store find-


Kodak Signet 35, in the day it was a very nice camera, top of the Kodak line.

It has this über-kuhl exposure calculator



filthy dirty and needs some work on the shutter, but the shutter gubbins are easy to access. Time for a cleaning!

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

That thing looks like someone hid is in his rear end and forgot it there. Should look amazing once cleaned up.

Studebaker Hawk
May 22, 2004

Looks like I just drunkenly bid-on-and-won a Bessa R! Now to get a decent lens...

Pompous Rhombus
Mar 11, 2007

Studebaker Hawk posted:

Looks like I just drunkenly bid-on-and-won a Bessa R! Now to get a decent lens...

Jupiter 8 (50mm f/2) is a great starter lens, should only run $30-40 on the Bay.

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


Jook posted:

I've been looking at some cheap film cameras on keh -- any suggestions? It seems the Canon EOS types are cheap (because they don't look.. retro?). Would I be able to throw my 50 1.8 on one? Or would I have more fun buying an old Canon FD and cheap lenses off craigslist? Thanks.
I have a firmware hacked A2e and if I had to keep the 50/1.8 on there for the rest of my life I'd be OK with it.

Moist von Lipwig
Oct 28, 2006

by FactsAreUseless
Tortured By Flan

Studebaker Hawk posted:

Looks like I just drunkenly bid-on-and-won a Bessa R! Now to get a decent lens...

I did this with a 65mm lens a couple weeks ago!

Captain Briney
Jan 5, 2009

This is my life partner and crappy upholstery.
I've been shooting with a K-1000 that I bought from another goon and it's awesome (Thanks Nannypea!)

I just put a roll of Tri-X through it and developed it with Zonal Pro, hung it to dry, then scaned it in with my Epson Perfection V300, and here's the end result:




There's this weird streak down the middle of my pictures, any idea what that could be coming from? I get the feeling that the negative is bowed too much in the center and is touching the glass of the scanner, which is why this is happening. Is there a way I should be hanging negatives so they're straighter in the middle? Or is my theory completely wrong?

Captain Briney fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Nov 9, 2010

Cannister
Sep 6, 2006

Steadfast & Ignorant
Along with the Bronica I'm asking for for xmas I put together a list of different kinds of film to try out, and a bunch of stuff to start developing B&W's.
Here's what I have so far for film:

B&W:
Kodak Tri-X 400
ilford delta 3200
ilford delta 400

Color:
Kodak Portra 160NC
Kodak Portra 160VC
Kodak Portra 400NC
Kodak Portra 800NC
Kodak Ektar 100
Kodak Ektachrome E100G

Some of the shots that have really caught my eye in a few flickr film groups are shot on Portra NC, so Ifigured I'd get a few different rolls of that, the rest is a guess. Is there anything else that'd be fun for me to mess with that's missing? Or too much redundancy?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I'd add Neopan to your B&W test (though I like Tri-X and delta better), and maybe try some Velvia 50/100 for some "haha" colors.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Nov 9, 2010

Bouillon Rube
Aug 6, 2009


I'd try some finer-grain B&W stuff too, like TMax 100 or FP4-plus.

Dr. Cogwerks
Oct 28, 2006

all I need is a grant and Project :roboluv: is go
Cannister: For medium-format B/W films, I'd recommend trying Efke 25, Pan-F 50, Neopan Acros 100, and Plus-X 125. All of them are quite gorgeous.

Nannypea
Feb 20, 2006

Faster, you naughty little monkey!

Cannister posted:

Bronica I'm asking for for xmas

Do you want to wait? I have one I can sell you now!



Captain Briney posted:

I've been shooting with a K-1000 that I bought from another goon and it's awesome (Thanks Nannypea!)

You have no idea what it feels like to make someone happy. Thanks for putting a big silly grin on my face.

FasterThanLight
Mar 26, 2003

Captain Briney posted:

There's this weird streak down the middle of my pictures, any idea what that could be coming from? I get the feeling that the negative is bowed too much in the center and is touching the glass of the scanner, which is why this is happening. Is there a way I should be hanging negatives so they're straighter in the middle? Or is my theory completely wrong?
Newton rings. You're right, those are the result of the film not being flat. I haven't found any better way of hanging them to avoid this, I usually just put the negatives in archival sheets in a binder after it dries.

This would probably solve the problem.

HPL
Aug 28, 2002

Worst case scenario.
Depending on the film, you can get it to come out flat by using a hairdryer for drying the film after developing.

Cannister
Sep 6, 2006

Steadfast & Ignorant

Nannypea posted:

Do you want to wait? I have one I can sell you now!

Ha, NO, I don't want to wait, but unfortunately I'm not doing the buying and my family is probably going to split the camera up and buy it individually through keh. Plus they're not too hip with dealing with actual people over the internet.

I'd buy yours if I was just buying something myself!

bellows lugosi
Aug 9, 2003

Cannister posted:

Color:
Kodak Portra 160NC
Kodak Portra 160VC
Kodak Portra 400NC
Kodak Portra 800NC
Kodak Ektar 100
Kodak Ektachrome E100G

I'd suggest giving Fuji Provia 100F if you're going to give Ektachrome E100G a shot, personally I find Fuji's slide offerings to be a little better than Kodak's. And of course, don't forget Ektar 100.

milquetoast child
Jun 27, 2003

literally
The Epson v500 film scanner is $105 on Amazon.com, is this the one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/Epson-B11B189011-Epson-Perfection-V500-Photo-Scanner/dp/B000VG4AY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1289327107&sr=8-1

guidoanselmi
Feb 6, 2008

I thought my ideas were so clear. I wanted to make an honest post. No lies whatsoever.

Yeah, good deal! i got mine for like $140 from buydig last year, which has consistently cheap deals. I never found it till looking for my current monitor, but I've been impressed with them.

I.G.
Oct 10, 2000

Cannister posted:

Along with the Bronica I'm asking for for xmas I put together a list of different kinds of film to try out, and a bunch of stuff to start developing B&W's.
Here's what I have so far for film:

B&W:
Kodak Tri-X 400
ilford delta 3200
ilford delta 400

Color:
Kodak Portra 160NC
Kodak Portra 160VC
Kodak Portra 400NC
Kodak Portra 800NC
Kodak Ektar 100
Kodak Ektachrome E100G

Some of the shots that have really caught my eye in a few flickr film groups are shot on Portra NC, so Ifigured I'd get a few different rolls of that, the rest is a guess. Is there anything else that'd be fun for me to mess with that's missing? Or too much redundancy?
I don't mean to be a naysayer, but I'm not sure this is the best approach to take if you're just starting out doing BW development. The "look" of a single film stock can vary greatly due to changes in exposure and the development process, and many of the differences between stocks are going to be lost on you. Picking a single film stock and sticking to it for a while is probably more instructive than shooting on a bunch of random ones.

Pompous Rhombus
Mar 11, 2007

I.G. posted:

I don't mean to be a naysayer, but I'm not sure this is the best approach to take if you're just starting out doing BW development. The "look" of a single film stock can vary greatly due to changes in exposure and the development process, and many of the differences between stocks are going to be lost on you. Picking a single film stock and sticking to it for a while is probably more instructive than shooting on a bunch of random ones.

I tend to agree with this (especially in the long run, once you get settled in with B&W), but I still think it's good to get a ballpark idea of how each one behaves by shooting several rolls of each. Even color can be like this; the first roll of Ektar 100 I shot was really "meh", but I was hooked after the second.

For B&W, I highly recommend Fuji Acros 100. You also might want to try Arista EDU Ultra 100 and 400 (it's rebranded Fomapan, sold exclusively at freestylephoto.biz) to see how you like it. Personally the 100 isn't my favorite thing in the world (haven't shot the 400 yet), but it's so cheap in 4x5 relative to everything else that I keep buying it.

edit: actually gently caress shooting EDU 100 in 120, for less than $.06/shot more on your Bronica you could be shooting Acros 100 :hellyeah:

edit2: might want to throw a roll or two of Velvia in there as well. Not a great portrait film though!

dunkman posted:

The Epson v500 film scanner is $105 on Amazon.com, is this the one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/Epson-B11B189011-Epson-Perfection-V500-Photo-Scanner/dp/B000VG4AY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1289327107&sr=8-1

Yep, that's the one I have, and at a pretty nice price. For a $100 film scanner you probably won't be able to do better.

MediumWellDone
Oct 4, 2010

おいしいよね〜
ソースがね〜
濃厚だね〜
I have to back Fuji Acros 100, but that is more due to availability in my area. It has never disappointed me.

Though I have noticed my negatives have been coming out slightly purple recently. This is off putting, because it must effect the result when scanning or printing, right? I'm using Mircodol to develop and Fujifix to fix. I think this due to improper storage of chemicals. I've been too lazy to go buy proper light proof bottles and I don't have the cupboard space to store solution at the moment. They have been living in the gap between my fridge and the bench in the mean time. Is this bad?

I also had a mess around with the extension tubes for the Super 23.



I didn't realise how shallow the depth of field would be. I was trying to focus on the second berry. My cheap wobbly tripod didn't help at all either. I don't think I'll be using the tubes again until I get a good tri-pod.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

guidoanselmi
Feb 6, 2008

I thought my ideas were so clear. I wanted to make an honest post. No lies whatsoever.

my negatives with acros always come out a but purpleish with hc-110. sometimes when i rinse my film with water prior to developing i see a lot of nasty blue water come out. figured it's related v :) v

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply