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JaundiceDave posted:Oh, holy poo poo. More photos, please. loving awesome, man.
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Nov 3, 2010 07:32
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JaundiceDave posted:
Gorgeous! Great work!
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Nov 3, 2010 19:31
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LloydDobler posted:Gorgeous! Great work! Thanks, but it's not my work. It's my dad's old car, and since we moved to New York from New Mexico, it's been driven maybe twice. This summer he finally got around to getting it fixed so that he can either start driving it again or sell it (hopefully to me!). The work's being done by the awesome guys up at http://www.briarcliffclassic.com/, but this has actually inspired me to learn more about cars, since I currently know gently caress-all. My friend's uncle has a 1976 Porsche 911 that needs fixing up, so hopefully I'll be able to learn through doing that with him.
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Nov 3, 2010 20:49
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That's a gorgeous 1800, and it looks like the restorers did a fantastic job with it. Congrats!
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Nov 3, 2010 21:06
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Just drove up again today to see how things are going. I printed out a manual I found online and did some checks on everything electrical. To my vast surprise, close to everything worked. All the dash lights, the indicators, the clock. The windshield wipers worked great too, though one of them fell off while I was testing. To my vast surprise, even the radio worked! I just started laughing when I turned it on and music started playing through the 39 year old speaker in the back. Didn't even sound too bad. So right now it's in pretty good condition, except for a few things: 1. Windshield wiper has fallen off 2. Radiator needs work/possible replacement 3. Cooling system/all the rubber hoses need to be checked and possibly replaced 4. Driver's side visor is mysteriously missing... 5. There are still some mineral deposits/rust spots, but they're not too noticeable. Just needs some patching up. 6. One dash light is broken, the parking brake indicator 7. Needs to be inspected. It has current plates and was just registered, though. One more thing, I noticed that it doesn't have a right hand wing mirror. Is this common in cars this age?
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Nov 5, 2010 23:01
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JaundiceDave posted:2. Radiator needs work/possible replacement Bummer, I just threw one away 3 months ago, you could have had it for free to rebuild and swap. Keep in mind your radiator is old enough that it's all metal, and can be rebuilt/reconditioned for far less than a new unit. JaundiceDave posted:One more thing, I noticed that it doesn't have a right hand wing mirror. Is this common in cars this age? Yeah, on cars one generation older, the mirrors weren't even standard and were purchased and installed by the dealer if the customer wanted them. Which is why they never match and are often just screwed haphazardly into the body wherever the mechanic felt like putting them.
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Nov 5, 2010 23:11
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LloydDobler posted:Bummer, I just threw one away 3 months ago, you could have had it for free to rebuild and swap. Keep in mind your radiator is old enough that it's all metal, and can be rebuilt/reconditioned for far less than a new unit. That's good to hear, at least. Forgot to upload a pic I took in my last post, so... Those are water drops, not paint bubbling. Also you can see the broken wiper. Genderfluid fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Nov 6, 2010 |
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Nov 5, 2010 23:35
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My 850 blew out it's head gasket on Thursday, how much work am I looking at. I would also be replacing the cables at the same time
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Nov 6, 2010 23:27
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sbaldrick posted:My 850 blew out it's head gasket on Thursday, how much work am I looking at. I would also be replacing the cables at the same time This is the best write up I know of for replacing the head gasket: http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutorials/850hg/p1.html What cables?
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Nov 7, 2010 06:53
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pad_avox posted:This is the best write up I know of for replacing the head gasket: http://www.tracystruesoaps.com/tutorials/850hg/p1.html Thank you for that, it was an interesting read. Turns out the v40 engine isn't a lot different, actually. Do you have links to anything that nice for other Volvos?
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Nov 7, 2010 11:31
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I meant the time belt and things
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Nov 8, 2010 18:00
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sbaldrick posted:I meant the time belt and things Ohhh....hope you didn't totally trash the engine.
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Nov 9, 2010 01:12
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The belts are fine at this point, but need to be change in about 10000km. So I mine as well do them at the same time. I remember someone in the thread said it was about an 800 dollar at home job. But I wanted to know how much the head gasket would be, given it's become a profit/lose thing
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Nov 9, 2010 16:29
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sbaldrick posted:The belts are fine at this point, but need to be change in about 10000km. So I mine as well do them at the same time. I remember someone in the thread said it was about an 800 dollar at home job. If you're talking just about the belts, that's a $250 DIY job if you include the water pump. It's $800 if you go to a shop.
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Nov 9, 2010 16:37
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LloydDobler posted:If you're talking just about the belts, that's a $250 DIY job if you include the water pump. It's $800 if you go to a shop. If you buy the parts yourself, it's more like $450-$500. My shop charged me $225 labor for the timing belt and water pump. I provided the IPD timing belt kit ($205 at the time, on sale). They ended up doing the water pump because it was starting to leak, and that was $100 parts cost through them, but I'd think you could get it cheaper online. (1997 850 non-turbo by the way, so exactly comparable to your car)
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Nov 9, 2010 18:13
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I can't find my Haynes and Bentley books right now to keep researching this. Anybody know of a guide on which wires to splice on an LH2.4 Wiring Harness onto a KJet chassis loom? I know I have to cut the wire that controls WOT but that's about it right now. The engine is in the car; I just need to wait for my crimps to come in and then I'm pretty much good to go. D: (Well, I still need fuel lines, greentops, and several vacuum lines, but it's coming along!)
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Nov 9, 2010 22:41
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Speaking of belts, the drive (axillary, serpentine, whatever) belt system on my 850 is in terrible condition, the (100k+ old) belt slips in the rain and the tensioner is wobbling, I want to order the parts but I don't really understand what I need. I'm seeing an accessory belt tensioner assembly but do I just need the pulley itself? Is there anything else I need (besides the belt)?
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Nov 9, 2010 23:53
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Xovaan posted:I can't find my Haynes and Bentley books right now to keep researching this. Anybody know of a guide on which wires to splice on an LH2.4 Wiring Harness onto a KJet chassis loom? I know I have to cut the wire that controls WOT but that's about it right now. The engine is in the car; I just need to wait for my crimps to come in and then I'm pretty much good to go. D: I have an electrical diagram for a 2.4 injection system if that's any help - let me know.
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Nov 9, 2010 23:59
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CornHolio posted:If you buy the parts yourself, it's more like $450-$500. My shop charged me $225 labor for the timing belt and water pump. I provided the IPD timing belt kit ($205 at the time, on sale). Dang, you're right. I forget sometimes just how cheap I get parts for through my dad's dealership. NOTinuyasha posted:I'm seeing an accessory belt tensioner assembly but do I just need the pulley itself? Is there anything else I need (besides the belt)? You don't need anything else, basically if you think the spring loading of the belt is fine then you just need the pulley. If you think the tension might be weak, get the whole tensioner assembly. And it's just that and the belt for replacement, nothing else.
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Nov 10, 2010 00:11
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Xovaan posted:I can't find my Haynes and Bentley books right now to keep researching this. Anybody know of a guide on which wires to splice on an LH2.4 Wiring Harness onto a KJet chassis loom? I know I have to cut the wire that controls WOT but that's about it right now. The engine is in the car; I just need to wait for my crimps to come in and then I'm pretty much good to go. D: The wires for the idiot lights and the starter are in the same place in both the K-Jet and LH 2.x wiring harnesses, so the big gray connector on the firewall probably won't need any modification. The ECU will need switched power. Dunno about the EZK, although it probably won't work correctly if you don't have a tone ring rear end and an electronic gauge cluster, since the ECU and the ignition require a speed signal. This is a question probably better asked on Turbobricks.
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Nov 10, 2010 00:49
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Redblock guys: It's getting real cold, but I have a factory 700/900 series block heater new in box that I bought and never installed. I paid $80 for it, I just checked Tasca and their last price was $59 but it's discontinued. It also includes a downpipe gasket because the instructions say to pull the downpipe for installation. I was thinking $50 shipped, anyone interested? Goons have dibs, otherwise I'll post it on the various volvo forums Thursday. Edit for pics:  
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 02:10
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82Daion posted:The wires for the idiot lights and the starter are in the same place in both the K-Jet and LH 2.x wiring harnesses, so the big gray connector on the firewall probably won't need any modification. The ECU will need switched power. Dunno about the EZK, although it probably won't work correctly if you don't have a tone ring rear end and an electronic gauge cluster, since the ECU and the ignition require a speed signal. The tone ring and electronic gauge cluster have minimal effect on engine management from what I've read. Apparently the RPM sensor does most of this, but another master Volvo tech I was talking to said that upon deceleration the tone ring and electronic gauge cluster both affect fuel/air ratio mixture or something to that nature. I just think it's all wizardry. Thanks for the info though. I'll keep trying to dig up info on tbricks when I get more time.
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Nov 10, 2010 04:27
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After months of searching on craigslist, I finally got some RWD 15" alloys for the brick at a decent price ($100). Yea! No scratches, some of the clear coat has faded just a little. I think they look alright.  Couple questions: Are the replicas that ipd makes the only wheels over 15" that will fit a 200 without spacers? I think I asked this before (  ) but what tire size do people like on 15" wheels for this car?
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Nov 12, 2010 22:35
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I've been running 205/15/50's since time immemorial on my 240's, and it's awesome both in looks and improvement to handling. You may have a little Monster Truck Syndrome in the front if you don't drop it an inch or more.
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Nov 12, 2010 22:45
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ch1mp posted:Couple questions: Are the replicas that ipd makes the only wheels over 15" that will fit a 200 without spacers? I think I asked this before ( The only factory wheels I know of that will bolt right up to any RWD Volvo and are over 15" are Hydras (16x6.5), Galaxies (16x6.5 or 16x7, can't remember), and Polaris (17x7). The latter two are highly uncommon in the US. Hydras are usually readily available on Turbobricks. Eiker also makes a Polaris replica called the E1, but they're quite expensive, and you'd probably have to have them shipped directly from Norway.
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Nov 12, 2010 22:53
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Yeah, if you need some Hydras, just go to any U-Pull-It that has more than two Volvos, they're all over the place. I think they were stock on the 850 for a couple years.
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Nov 13, 2010 02:02
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So, maybe I'm asking in the wrong thread, but what the hell. Maybe you guys can objectively tell me, what has the greatest potential of being a fun DD? A 1982 Toyota Celica Supra or a 1987 Volvo 740 Turbo? Yeah, I know the 740 has more power overall, but will the Supra's Lotus-tuned handling make it more worthwhile? And yes, this is a legitimate shopping valuation question.
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Nov 13, 2010 03:31
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Splizwarf posted:Yeah, if you need some Hydras, just go to any U-Pull-It that has more than two Volvos, they're all over the place. I think they were stock on the 850 for a couple years. They're a rear wheel drive wheel. They were the main 16" wheel on 740 and 940 turbo cars from something like '88 through '95. Francis, the Volvo won't be "fun" it'll be a solid, reliable, slightly sporty car. You will love it, but not because it's fun. It'll make you feel like a grown up.
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Nov 13, 2010 05:03
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LloydDobler posted:They're a rear wheel drive wheel. They were the main 16" wheel on 740 and 940 turbo cars from something like '88 through '95. After checking the best reference I've found so far I must admit that I confused Hydras with probably Columbias. Sorry for the confusion. Also hey, Hydras look better than I thought! 
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Nov 13, 2010 05:26
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LloydDobler posted:Francis, the Volvo won't be "fun" it'll be a solid, reliable, slightly sporty car. You will love it, but not because it's fun. It'll make you feel like a grown up.
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Nov 13, 2010 05:47
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Ether Frenzy posted:I've been running 205/15/50's since time immemorial on my 240's, and it's awesome both in looks and improvement to handling. Which specific tires do you get in that size? All I see on tirerack in that size are a couple high performance type tires with tread patterns that wont do well in snow. They have a bit more selection in 195/55 and a few more in 195/60 though - do you think these taller sizes will be noticeably different to look at? Also, and i feel like a retard for asking this, but will the lug nuts from my old steelies work on these 760 alloys? They seem have a conical rather than rounded countersink so I assume they will work 
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Nov 13, 2010 06:23
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Francis Baconator posted:Thanks for the good answer, that's sort of the impression I was under, too. Looks like I have some thinking ahead of me. I'm guessing at 220,000 miles, the 740 is about middle-aged? If you know anything else about them, point to watch out for, etc, I'm all ears. For example, can the auto tranny handle all the power and torque coming from the turbo? The automatic has no trouble with stock power levels or more. My 940 is significantly more powerful than stock, and the transmission has never skipped a beat. Part of the reason that the turbo cars are popular among Volvo tuners is that the factory left quite a bit of headroom in the cars for more power on stock components. Brickboard has an excellent guide as to what to watch out for in used 700/900 series Volvos.
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Nov 13, 2010 06:25
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Started pulling apart the engine today...way, way worse then I thought it was. So the Volvo goes to the great scrap pile in the sky. On the plus side, for some reason I'm getting like 300 dollar scrap price offers.
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Nov 14, 2010 05:15
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Question for goons: It's starting to get cooler here and yesterday something happened that I'm not quite sure if it's an issue or not. In the afternoon after getting off of work, I accelerated harder than normal on the turbo and I got a puff of smoke out the back for just a second. Is there something I should be keeping an eye on?
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Nov 14, 2010 23:50
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sbaldrick posted:Started pulling apart the engine today...way, way worse then I thought it was. So the Volvo goes to the great scrap pile in the sky. Was it in such bad condition, replacing the head gasket wasn't worth it?
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Nov 15, 2010 00:03
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Oxphocker posted:Question for goons: What color of smoke?
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Nov 15, 2010 00:57
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TheJeffers posted:What color of smoke? gray...not black or thick... Normally I don't get any smoke/emission unless it's cold in the morning. But this was in the afternoon and I had just gone into some heavy acceleration.
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Nov 15, 2010 01:44
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Anyone know of a how-to on repairing heated seats on a 240? All I am finding is stuff for 700s and 850's - not sure if that applies.
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Nov 20, 2010 05:53
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There's not much to it, pull the seat, cut the hog rings, remove the skin, replace the heater element, sew up any bad seams, re-skin it, ideally swapping driver and passenger covers to spread out the wear, use zip ties instead of hog rings to put it all back together if you're lazy like me, they work great.
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Nov 20, 2010 06:32
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Do 240s not have lumbar adjustment? The (easily overcome) problem swapping 740 seatcovers is the hole for that. ch1mp, make sure it's the heater element and not the wiring or the switch before you go hog-ring-wild.
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Nov 20, 2010 16:55
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