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guidoanselmi posted:my negatives with acros always come out a but purpleish with hc-110. sometimes when i rinse my film with water prior to developing i see a lot of nasty blue water come out. figured it's related v I freaked out when I rinsed some Rollei Ortho 25 and all the water came out wonderful royal blue  But the film did feel a bit sticky while it was putting it onto the reel, so I guess its some kind of red-filtering layer.
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Nov 10, 2010 10:30
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guidoanselmi posted:my negatives with acros always come out a but purpleish with hc-110. sometimes when i rinse my film with water prior to developing i see a lot of nasty blue water come out. figured it's related v Try washing with hot water. My Acros negatives come out super transparent and clear, no purple at all. Lots of films will result in purple water when washing, even 35mm film.
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Nov 10, 2010 16:15
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HPL posted:Try washing with hot water. My Acros negatives come out super transparent and clear, no purple at all. Lots of films will result in purple water when washing, even 35mm film. It's the anti-halation layer. Tri-X is the worst offender, especially in 35mm. They always look purple to me.
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Nov 10, 2010 16:59
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killabyte posted:It's the anti-halation layer. Tri-X is the worst offender, especially in 35mm. They always look purple to me. I have never gotten my Tri-X to not come out purple. I've tried everything, including 5min+ or multiple prewashes, 10-15 mins in the fixer, 40m+ washes, etc. It dries down a bit more clear than it looks wet, but they're still purple. My Acros negatives come out perfectly clear too.  Anyone know where I could get the little faucet fitting to make a force film washer hose? I'm not paying $15 for a bit of hose and a rubber gizmo if I can avoid it. With one of these I could try hot water washes. A question I've been mulling over: my 35mm Tri-X (400) doesn't seem to make the prewash blue, but the 120 does (also 400, not 320 TXP), like most 120 I've seen. I always just tear the film off the paper and leave the tape attached when I load it onto a reel. Could some of the blue be dye from the tape or something? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 18:02
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Paul MaudDib posted:I have never gotten my Tri-X to not come out purple. Tri-X always has a purplish base. HP5 is un-coloured but a little bit opaque and matte. Acros is un-coloured, clear and shiny.
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Nov 10, 2010 19:30
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I read somewhere that exposing your developed negative to light helps clear up the purple tint. I left my negatives in their holder pages under window light for a few hours and I feel like they cleared up a lot.
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Nov 10, 2010 21:22
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on the subject of film peculiarities, is it just me or acros really easily scratched compared to other BW films (at least the ilford ones)?
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Nov 10, 2010 22:36
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guidoanselmi posted:on the subject of film peculiarities, is it just me or acros really easily scratched compared to other BW films (at least the ilford ones)? I think that's because the base is shinier so it shows worse.
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Nov 11, 2010 02:01
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Nannypea posted:You have no idea what it feels like to make someone happy. Thanks for putting a big silly grin on my face. Good to hear  I'm loving the K1000. I got a 50mm f/2 for pretty cheap and I've been using it nearly nonstop.
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Nov 11, 2010 04:49
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Captain Briney posted:Good to hear The K1000 is an awesome camera. Keep your eyes out for a K1000SE (split prism) or better yet a ME. The ME has an enormous screen, it's smaller, has a split prism, and it's aperture priority. Primes are awesome, it's only recently that zooms caught up to them. Pretty much any 50mm lens will put any non-pro level zoom to shame and be faster to boot.
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Nov 11, 2010 05:46
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Been shooting a lot of film lately trying to narrow down which camera is going to be my main "always in the bag ready to go" film body. I've narrowed it down to a Nikon N80 w/ vertical grip and a F90x (N90s.) Both are excellent cameras. The F90x is a pro level body but it's 1992 technology. The N80 is from 2000 and it feels like a modern DSLR. It's got a smaller and dimmer viewfinder but more modern controls. It's also lighter. I'm going to keep both but I'm pretty sure this is going to be my "keep in the bag camera" F90x, Nikkor 80-200 f/2.8, Tri-X 400 pushed to 800 in Ilfosol 3.   N80, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8, Fuji 400  N80, Nikkor 80-200 f/2.8, Fuji 400  F90x, Nikkor 35mm f/2, Fomapan 400  F90x, Nikkor 80-200 f/2.8, Fuji 400 
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Nov 11, 2010 20:11
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Hey all, I noticed on craigslist someone has an A-1, AE-1, and an AL-1 up for grabs at low cost, anyone here ever used these/have thoughts on them? Thanks.
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Nov 15, 2010 04:24
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Blindeye posted:Hey all, I noticed on craigslist someone has an A-1, AE-1, and an AL-1 up for grabs at low cost, anyone here ever used these/have thoughts on them? A lot of people will recommend the AE-1, it's a very good general body.
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Nov 15, 2010 04:37
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I have an A-1 and it has everything I could want. Plus the ASA goes to 12800!
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Nov 15, 2010 04:46
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I think I'm going to shoot film more seriously instead of spending more money on a new DSLR. It seems cheaper in the long run.
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Nov 15, 2010 05:52
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Fiannaiocht posted:I think I'm going to shoot film more seriously instead of spending more money on a new DSLR. It seems cheaper in the long run. I made the same decision recently and haven't regreted it for a second. I picked up a bronica sq-ai kit for 200 quid, saving 800 quid on the dslr I wanted. if you need digital get a good point and shoot like a cannon s95 or panasonic lx5.
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Nov 15, 2010 09:06
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I have an AE-1 and an AE-1 Program. They're both great cameras and the abundance of quality, fairly inexpensive FD mount lenses available online is nice, as well.
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Nov 15, 2010 14:53
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Spedman posted:I made the same decision recently and haven't regreted it for a second. I picked up a bronica sq-ai kit for 200 quid, saving 800 quid on the dslr I wanted. if you need digital get a good point and shoot like a cannon s95 or panasonic lx5. I already have an S90, D40 and N40. I was just thinking about upgrading to a D90 or D7000 but if I'm shooting a lot of photos at once and need them immediately it's probably a vacation/facebook thing (use the S90). If it's something I want to hang on the wall I'll use film and if I don't know I'll use the D40.
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Nov 15, 2010 16:08
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Fiannaiocht posted:I think I'm going to shoot film more seriously instead of spending more money on a new DSLR. It seems cheaper in the long run. This is more or less what I ended up doing, I got a really beat up Minolta SRT-201 for fun as a side to my Canon 450D. But I quickly realised I enjoyed using film way more than I ever did taking digital photographs. Now I almost exclusively use a Nikon FM2n. Sometimes the wait to get the images is a bit frustrating I admit, but I don't think I could ever go back to APS-C SLR's now.
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Nov 15, 2010 17:57
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Fiannaiocht posted:I think I'm going to shoot film more seriously instead of spending more money on a new DSLR. It seems cheaper in the long run. Just wait, in no time, you'll be trying to convince yourself that a Leica M8 will save you money.
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Nov 15, 2010 18:19
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l33tc4k30fd00m posted:Sometimes the wait to get the images is a bit frustrating I admit, but I don't think I could ever go back to APS-C SLR's now.
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Nov 15, 2010 20:50
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l33tc4k30fd00m posted:This is more or less what I ended up doing, I got a really beat up Minolta SRT-201 for fun as a side to my Canon 450D. But I quickly realised I enjoyed using film way more than I ever did taking digital photographs.
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Nov 15, 2010 21:51
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I shot my first (and second) roll of colour film in 3 years and had it processed the other day. The slides came back green and foggy and the machine attacked my negatives and I lost half of them. This is why I shoot b&w and process it myself.
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Nov 16, 2010 00:11
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I HATE CARS posted:I shot my first (and second) roll of colour film in 3 years and had it processed the other day. Process your own colour, its a piece of piss.
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Nov 16, 2010 12:48
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Spedman posted:Process your own colour, its a piece of piss. What goes into processing color? How is it different than B&W processing? Speaking of color processing - I got my first roll of film ever back from Walmart (who shipped it out to Fuji/Kodak I think). The CD of scans that came back with the film/prints was absolute garbage - the files were like 1500x1000 or a little less and looked like trash. The prints are OK but I really wish I had a decent scanner to scan the negatives. Here's a scan of one of my better shots from the flatbed scanner/printer I have:  Also - a bunch of the shots on the roll seemed like they never got exposed, or like the shutter got hung up 1/3 of the way across the frame or something... I'll post pictures later. If it seems like an issue with the camera I have no problem picking up a sub-40 dollar canon EOS replacement from keh. And on a related topic...what is everybody's favorite sub-40 dollar canon EOS 35mm body?
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Nov 16, 2010 13:57
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Dunno what it costs at keh, but I'm super happy shooting girlfriend's EOS 50 when I want film and autofocus (my 35mm is an F3).
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Nov 16, 2010 14:20
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Cannister posted:What goes into processing color? How is it different than B&W processing? You need a colour kit, like this: http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/products/618/tetenal-colortec-e6-kit-1-litre The process takes one extra step over B&W, you have a 1st developer (which is actually a B&W developer) then the 2nd developer which is the colour developer, then a fixer/bleach mix, followed with lots of rinsing and a stabiliser. All this comes in the kit and is very straight forward to mix up. All I do with the chemicals is mix them up to the full 1 litre and store them in accordion style bottles so you can squeeze out all the air, and just decant whatever I need when I'm processing. The main issue is getting the temp right. All I do is have a big plastic basin (about the size of a regular kitchen sink) fill it with hot water and put the chemicals in their individual bottles in the basin to get warm (about 37C) along with the processing tank. The next issue is the timing, as you are supposed to start counting as soon as you start pouring the chems in the tank, and then that step stops when you start pouring in fresh water after you've got the chems out. I've found giving yourself 15secs to pour out and starting pouring in works well. The actual processing is a little different to b&w, when the chemicals go in you do 15sec worth of inversions, then one inversion every 15 secs until time is up. I also hold the tank in the warm bath between inversions to keep the temp stable and it seems to work well. Its very satisfying pulling out a 120 roll of ektachrome from your tank and seeing all the pretty colours, and all for only about 30mins of work. Hope that made sense.
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Nov 16, 2010 15:55
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Fujifilm 800z isn't discontinued right? I've been looking around for any color above 400 and the stores keep saying they're out because all the students are buying them up. Do people not really care about color film or is digital just consuming everything? Also how bad is color balance for Porta 800 and 800z under incandescent/fluorescent lighting? Should I get some filters or is awkwardly balancing scans doable?
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Nov 16, 2010 16:17
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Spedman posted:colour Some guy on RFF was using an old crockpot for the hot water bath, seems like a pretty workable solution.
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Nov 16, 2010 18:13
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The one time I tried 800z in tungsten light it was pretty drat horrible. If you use filters (80A), you'll lose 2 stops so you give up the speed advantage. Now I just stick to B&W in low light. Edit: It's 2 stops, not 1/2 a stop like I previously thought. gib fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Nov 17, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 18:14
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Some guy on RFF was using an old crockpot for the hot water bath, seems like a pretty workable solution. Another good DIY solution is a fish aquarium heater in your bath, apparently they work like a charm.
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Nov 16, 2010 18:35
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How would Bill Henson get the dark chiaroscuro effect in his images? For example, this image: [img]https://wi.somethingawful.com/71/715c92dfc967c09bad612b7f48cef9e9ccd0c7af.jpg][/img] Now the image has a lot of contrast and is arguably (on a technical level) a stop or two underexposed. How do you literally, physically go about adding heavy contrast to an image like this, and in specific, localized areas?
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Nov 16, 2010 18:35
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It looks like he's using a computer monitor as a light
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Nov 16, 2010 19:28
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Spedman posted:colour How many rolls does 1 lt last? I'm guessing 12 films means 12 rolls of 120?
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Nov 16, 2010 20:57
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Already Bored posted:How would Bill Henson get the dark chiaroscuro effect in his images? I don't see why that can't just be done in-camera. If it was shot with strobes, you can still underexpose quite a bit and have the specular highlights read as white. Everything that is reading as a bright tone in that shot is a direct reflection of the light source. Seems pretty straightforward to me.
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Nov 16, 2010 21:15
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guidoanselmi posted:How many rolls does 1 lt last? I'm guessing 12 films means 12 rolls of 120? Yep 12 rolls of 120, I've read people getting 20+ out of 1 litre kit, you start to get a little bit of colour shifting in the last few rolls. The current kit I've got I've put through 12 rolls, some 35mm, mostly 120 and a roll of c41 film too, and I'll be putting through a few more rolls before I get rid of it.
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Nov 16, 2010 22:30
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Spedman posted:Process your own colour, its a piece of piss. I've got the freestyle 1 pint E-6 kit right now, just waiting till I've shot ~5 rolls to start processing, as I've heard E-6 chems go bad really fast. e: Take them to the dump. 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 23:53
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Ok 2 more q's because now I'm seriously entertaining ruining a bunch of my rolls. -How about the toxicity of the chems? can you just pour them down the drain with the tetrinol? http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00GiGm seems like good enough, but more input the better -What about diluting chems? I use 1/2 diluted HC-110 for BW and dev for 2x as long. I don't know if there's this sort of linearity with E6/C41 dev?
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Nov 16, 2010 23:54
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You are all bastards. Just when I thought I was done acquiring gear for a while I got the urge to get some film gear. Now I'm sitting here not a week after upgrading to a 50D with to Canon AE-1's (one a AE-1 Program) in front of me. Spending money is not something I need to do right now. gently caress it, they only cost me $30 with 3 lenses and they look sexy as hell. I was hoping I'd at least find a fastish 50mm prime in the bags, but there were only zooms. Can anyone confirm that these are as lovely as I'm expecting? Tamron 80-210mm 1:3.8/ 1:4 Tamron SP Adaptall-2 35-80mm f/2.8-3.8 Vivitar 28-70mm f/3.5-4.8
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Nov 17, 2010 06:41
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I was hoping I'd at least find a fastish 50mm prime in the bags, but there were only zooms. Can anyone confirm that these are as lovely as I'm expecting? Look up the Adaptall-2 on Flickr and rejoice in your unique and not nearly as lovely as it should be score. I just picked up the 135mm version off of e-Bay this weekend after seeing Ringo R's SAD post of the Asanuma-branded Adaptall. I do feel your pain, however. I've developed a terrible compulsion to buy things from KEH and Adorama with little rhyme or reason whatsoever.
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Nov 17, 2010 07:54
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