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veedubfreak posted:Ya, my lenses are pretty jacked up right now too. The dealer near me offers a cleaning/polishing service, what do you suggest as far as fixing the crappy plastic lenses? I plan on doing that over the thanksgiving week as I'm taking the week off. I've never been a big fan of those lens repair kits - I do a 2 stage wetsand and then a hand compound and a wax finish. Generally, you can't beat a good wetsand to refinish a sandblasted or stained headlight.
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Nov 10, 2010 23:45
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:2002 Jetta v6 Ok, there's a ECM software update for your cat conv. fault so there's a good chance that you didn't need that cat at all. The TSB is 2017553/1 and it usually fixes the fault. The EPC "coding" stuff sounds a little fishy - there IS a module that is in charge of EPC but the only reasons it would ever require coding changes are if it gets replaced or if there is a software update related to it which I don't think there is. I'd love to know what faults you have stored now - it would go a long way in figuring out what's going on. I'd suspect injectors or possibly a failing coil - both of which are known to be problematic in the VR6 engine. There's a remote chance that you've got a failing G28 or G40 (engine or cam speed sensor) problem but they and the coil will log faults for sure.
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Nov 11, 2010 00:16
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:2002 Jetta v6 Holy jesus fuckin sheepshit! 900 bucks for a cat! What the gently caress is it made out of, Platinum? Yes I know. Can't you weld on a universal cat for 150 bucks?
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Nov 11, 2010 00:23
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scapulataf posted:Holy jesus fuckin sheepshit! You can use a universal cat but they're often undersized and not as effective which results in faults for catalyst efficiency. The real key is to make sure the catalyst bed is of a comparable size to the OEM part - there's nothing special about the VW cat except that it's a perfect fit and it's sized correctly for reducing emissions on that specific motor.
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Nov 11, 2010 02:08
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Thank you. This guy also told me that the "bad" cat. con. had a "core" that needed to be sent back to VW. I'm going to go call him now and see what's going on. EDIT: OK... just talked to this guy. The only fault it has now is 1142 and he said that is the MAF sensor again. He called Bosch and got another new one, so right now as it sits in his garage it has no faults at all. He said he still thinks something is wrong with the "basic throttle setting"/EPC/"throttle control", (he used those 3 words interchangeably) because there is a "hesitation" when accelerating. He said there are 3 possible causes for this... the battery is loose, or has been disconnected at some point, there is a disconnected power train module, or the throttle control is bad. He is taking it to a VW dealership tomorrow to get an "EPC throttle reset", or "reflash". He said he can not do this at his garage, and only VW can, and he is not charging me for it. I mentioned the injectors and failing coil and he said that wasn't the problem. Now the cat. conv. ... I mentioned the TSB 2017553/1 as a fix for my original cat. conv. And he said, "well you said you took it to VW service right? The first thing they would do would be update any software. So if it's still pulling a cat. con. fault it must be bad." I said, "So you charged me $1000 for a new cat. con. because you assumed the garage I had it at before (VW service) already updated the software? When I told you they couldn't find anything wrong?" He said, "Well, when I took the cat. con. off it was broke loose a little bit inside so it was bad." I just kept my cool and said, "Huh... ok". Also while I was on the phone with him he said one of the mechanics went to try and pull my car out of the garage and the battery was completely dead. This is the second time he has mentioned the battery being dead, when I have never had a problem with the battery and the one time he tested it right in front of me it tested strong So...... is there anyway I can visually tell if a cat. con. is bad? He had it laying there in his garage 2 days ago. Of course now that he knows I'm suspicious he is probably making sure it's broke right now. I'm a real easy going guy, but I don't trust any mechanic because stuff like this always seems to happen to me. I must have "rich sucker" written on my forehead, and I'm definitely not rich, and I try really hard not to be a sucker. He's now had my car for what will amount to 2 weeks, with me driving it a total 35 miles this past Tuesday. my1999gsr - Are you a VW mechanic? FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Nov 11, 2010 |
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Nov 11, 2010 14:12
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Quick and urgent question. I had a front wheel and tire replaced due to an accident, and the tire shop put the new tire on the front. The other front tire has about 10K of wear on it (I think it's at 7/32 or 8/32). Is this the right way to do it? I was told that when only one tire needs to be replaced, new tire always goes in the rear, and is matched with tire that has the most treadwear. The car is driving fine for the most part, but there's some slight vibration/shudder (that wasn't there before) when I'm making a right turn or when I'm following a road that curves to the right. There aren't any issues that I noticed with left turns.
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Nov 11, 2010 18:36
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More info... I called the VW dealer service to get a report from the last time I had it in there. Probably 2 weeks before this is when I had the plugs and wires changed. March 29th 2010.. Cause: "Fault codes in system P0420 catalyst efficiency fault, P0101 mass air flow range/performance, P1182 load detection" Correction: "P0638 throttle actuator control range performance. Test drove and ran good. Could not verify failure in any component. Fuel trim data looks good. Most likely failure in mass air flow sensor fault." Now that is what is in black and white. What they told me at the time was that they weren't sure enough it was the MAF sensor to justify charging me $300 for a new one. They said it drove fine for them, and charged me $40 for their time. I said ok and thanked them for being honest and not taking the opportunity to screw me. Now the problem was hit or miss, and I figuared they just drove it on one of it's good days. From here on out I started researching online for answers, cleaning the MAF sensor myself, which did seem to help for a short while, and using fuel additives etc. EDIT: I see P0420 code is for the cat. con. so I feel alittle better about that part of it. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Nov 11, 2010 |
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Nov 11, 2010 21:54
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Autism Sundae posted:Quick and urgent question. I had a front wheel and tire replaced due to an accident, and the tire shop put the new tire on the front. The other front tire has about 10K of wear on it (I think it's at 7/32 or 8/32). I would check the depth of the worn one against the new one using a ruler or coin or something. Usually you want the front or rear pair to have the same tread depth. So wherever it goes if you leave it there or rotated. have you done your 10k service yet? When I haven't been in for a while the dealer checks my tread depth. Last time I had a tire replaced cause of the sidewall there was hardly any wear so they only needed to replace one but I am at a lot less mileage.
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Nov 11, 2010 22:41
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Yeah, the wear on the new tire is about 4/32s more than the wear on the old tire. Having these two mismatched tires at the front doesn't seem like a good idea, but I'm stuck with one new tire no matter what. I guess I just want to see whether my assumptions are correct and that having two old equally worn tires there is better than having a new one and an old one.
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Nov 11, 2010 22:45
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Autism Sundae posted:Quick and urgent question. I had a front wheel and tire replaced due to an accident, and the tire shop put the new tire on the front. The other front tire has about 10K of wear on it (I think it's at 7/32 or 8/32). 10k isn't too much really - you can use a tread depth gauge to see if the new tire and the original one on the opposite side have close to the same amount of tread remaining. Optimally, I'd like to see the 2 best tires on the front but if the original tire has much lower tread than the new one then it might be a good idea to buy another tire to match the new one or rotate your spare tire into the mix. It's possible that your new tire needs a re-balance - I'm guessing it's on the left front side?
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Nov 12, 2010 00:31
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It's on the left front, yeah. They did the balancing and alignment already and told me the car was fine, but there are a couple of weird things going on - a slight noise/vibration coming from the front of the car at speeds above 40mph (gets drowned out when I go faster that 60 or so), the noise has a weird cadence to it; and when I get to 50 and above, turning right/following a right curve also produces some noticeable noise and vibration, kind of feels like I'm going over slightly uneven pavement. The tire shop also overinflated the tires, right front/rear are at 40.5 and left f/r are at 39.5
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Nov 12, 2010 00:51
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:More info... I called the VW dealer service to get a report from the last time I had it in there. Probably 2 weeks before this is when I had the plugs and wires changed. I really doubt there's a software update for the throttle actuator. It's certainly not impossible - VW sometimes keeps us in the dark about software fixes - but I don't have any published tech support bulletins regarding it. Your control module won't lose it's coding because of a disconnected battery or voltage loss either - it's like saying your home computer will lose it's operating system if you remove the battery. If the VW dealer you took your car to saw that cat conv. fault they SHOULD have searched for the tech bulletin about it but that doesn't mean they DID search for it - it's an older TSB and it wasn't used that often because there's so far fewer VR6 cars on the road (this TSB only applies to the VR6). You should have been notified by the dealership if they did the software flash to repair the convertor fault in any case and it would have been noted on your work order paperwork. If the MAF is bad and trips a fault, the way to diagnose it is to look at the fuel trim, erase the fault (which clears the trim data) and go on a road test to check the trims again. Usually the trims go all weird rather quickly (say 10 miles or less) so it's easy to diagnose. If you have it at the VW dealer now, it should be easy to determine if the MAF is bad because the trims will be wrong again. It's easily possible that your cat was really bad - especially if the catalyst bed was rattling around in the cat's shell so it may have required replacement. I've seen rattling convertors that never threw a fault - the catalyst can still do it's job (until it breaks into very tiny parts and gets blown out the tail pipe) so if it were my diagnosis I would have suggested trying the software update first and replace the cat if the update doesn't help since the update takes about 40 minutes and no parts versus a retardedly expensive cat. I'm not sure why VW would want the old convertor back unless it was replaced under warranty. Of course, catalytic convertor recycling is a pretty lucrative business so an underhanded shop might tell you it was a "core" part that would have to be returned so they could sell it and get the cash for it. There's also a TSB that outlines the procedures for cat replacement. Basically it says "Do any software updates applicable. If fault returns, replace cat." BUT there's a mileage/time limit and your local VW dealership would be able to tell you what it is on your car - it'll be longer than the original warranty so you might still have coverage. To answer another question, yes, I'm a VW and Audi certified technician.
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Nov 12, 2010 01:09
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Autism Sundae posted:It's on the left front, yeah. They did the balancing and alignment already and told me the car was fine, but there are a couple of weird things going on - a slight noise/vibration coming from the front of the car at speeds above 40mph (gets drowned out when I go faster that 60 or so), the noise has a weird cadence to it; and when I get to 50 and above, turning right/following a right curve also produces some noticeable noise and vibration, kind of feels like I'm going over slightly uneven pavement. When you turn right your left wheel has to turn faster and that would magnify a balance problem - that's how I knew that you had the left tire replaced. Swap your front tires for your rears and see if the problem continues. I'm still betting on a bad balance job on your new tire though - if you lost a weight right after the balance it could easily cause the problems you're having.
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Nov 12, 2010 01:19
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What do you mean by lost a weight?
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Nov 12, 2010 01:21
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Autism Sundae posted:What do you mean by lost a weight? On your mag wheels (I'm assuming you've got mags if you've got a GTI) the tire shop would use stick-on weights. If the adhesive fails or there's a little water on the rim then the weight can fall off easily and then you've got an imbalance.
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Nov 12, 2010 01:23
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The wheels are 18 inch Denvers, the front left wheel was bent in the accident (hit a curb) and was replaced. So yeah, the left front wheel and tire are new, and the tire shop put them in the same spot (front left). Not entirely sure what the problem is, but I'll go back tomorrow so my shop can rotate the new wheel/tire to the rear, hopefully that fixes it.. What's weird is that the noise/vibration issues are the same as the ones I had right after the accident, when the wheel was bent. They're not as pronounced, but the general feel is the same.
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Nov 12, 2010 01:36
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Autism Sundae posted:The wheels are 18 inch Denvers  Denvers are 17s, Detroits are 18s.
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Nov 12, 2010 03:19
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I thought the 18s were called Hufeisens.
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Nov 12, 2010 05:22
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teh jhey posted:I thought the 18s were called Hufeisens. Same wheel, but I think huffs refers to the MKV version that had a grey inlay instead of black like the MKVI Detroits.
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Nov 12, 2010 07:13
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my1999gsr posted:info Thank you so much. This is awesome information to have.
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Nov 12, 2010 14:25
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DropShadow posted:
I was going back and forth between these two because I couldn't remember which one's which. You're right, mine are Detroits. I drove the car more extensively yesterday and as I go faster the issues get more apparent. At highway speeds, turning the wheel to the right to follow a curve in the road produces some definitely unsettling vibration from the front left. The car also pulls strongly to the left side, especially when accelerating. Before the accident, when on a straight part of a highway I could hold the wheel lightly with one hand and the car would stay on the road with no effort. Now, the car starts veering left almost immediately and if I step on the gas, it ais itself right for the center divider unless I keep correcting it. I hope this is just mismatched wheels and a bad alignment job and not signs of suspension damage..
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Nov 12, 2010 15:43
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JHVH-1 posted:Same wheel, but I think huffs refers to the MKV version that had a grey inlay instead of black like the MKVI Detroits. The way I understand it, "Detroit" is VWs name for the wheel, and it refers to both MkV & MKVI wheels. "Hufeisen" is BBS' name for the wheel.
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Nov 13, 2010 00:03
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Thank you so much. This is awesome information to have. I hope it helps and things work out for you.
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Nov 13, 2010 00:52
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  OTD for 18.8k w/tax/title/registration '07 53k Miles w/2 year warranty. First car I've ever purchased  Pretty clean too, gonna detail her tomorrow 
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Nov 14, 2010 05:16
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Wicaeed posted:
I cannot believe how well these things keep their value... ...paid 21k for my '07... in '07
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Nov 14, 2010 08:31
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primitive posted:I cannot believe how well these things keep their value... $18,800 out the door, but it was $15,866 on the lot. Nice car Wicaeed, they look great in white.
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Nov 14, 2010 20:38
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DropShadow posted:$18,800 out the door, but it was $15,866 on the lot. My first car purchase so I forgot tax & DMV fees add up so fast  Also I got a warranty with it just for peace of mind.
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Nov 15, 2010 02:44
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Wicaeed posted:Also I got a warranty with it just for peace of mind. probably not the worst idea i, too, own a volkswagen with an automatic transmission
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Nov 15, 2010 07:12
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Hey I finally own my R32! It only took six years!   56k miles. Other than someone jumping on the hood, someone raising the hatch into a garage door while it was on jack stands, and a cracked oil pan, all has been well.
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Nov 15, 2010 09:32
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just cancelled the eibach pro-system order -- wasn't going to come in until the middle of january ordered the koni fsd with the eibach pro-kit springs instead question: anyone else here run the same combination? i've read only good things, but would like to get a non-vortex opinion
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Nov 15, 2010 10:24
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rope kid posted:Hey I finally own my R32! It only took six years! loving sweet! Nice car. I used to have a blue one. Personal preference but nothing looks better on them than the original Aristos.
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Nov 15, 2010 14:04
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I've got an '04 V10 5.0l diesel Phaeton and I'm after a bit of advice really. I've had this car for 4 years now, and it's been a bloody nightmare the past few months. It's rarely driven, has 53k miles on the clock and is maintained as per VW's instructions. It has always been serviced at a main dealer but despite all of that, driving to work last week the turbo failed and fired 15-odd litres of oil straight out of my exhaust. With the V10s this is now an engine-out job even to fully diagnose (14.9 hours is the book time for turbo replacement). I have spoken to VW with regard to assistance but they're not remotely interested as the vehicle is 7 years old. My argument is I don't expect to have to have the engine out to deal with catastrophic failure on a well-maintained vehicle with only 50k on the clock. Looking around the net I can see a lot of V10 failures on 04 cars, eg: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5084133-turbo-failure-on-the-V10...anyone http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/diesel-engine-turbo-failure-22562.html The other problem is, in the UK only select garages can deal with Phaetons, so my car is currently at a (non-authorised) VAG specialist I trust 30 miles from the nearest VW garage, because there was no dealer in the recovery radius I had on my breakdown assistance. Oh yeah, and VW want £99/hour+VAT for labour whereas my guys will only(!) charge £65/hour+VAT. So, uh, any advice? Is it worth pushing VW for assistance or just grin and bear the horrendous bill I've got coming my way? I'm loathe to let them off the hook as the fact there are many examples of this around the net seems to suggest it's a manufacturing problem, but proving that is hard work. Having said that, by the time I get my car recovered 30 miles down the road and pay 35% more in labour costs, any VW contribution is only going to offset that anyway. Argh! Couple of pics here if anyone cares (and wants to buy it, it will have brand new turbos very shortly one way or another  ): 
Loonytoad Quack fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Nov 15, 2010 |
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Nov 15, 2010 14:40
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I just got my intake flapper sensor repaired (2009 TSI GTI) and they told me it wasn't covered under the warranty. They basically had to replace the entire intake manifold. From posts I have read/made elsewhere it seems that people are actually getting this covered under the power train warranty. I don't understand why my dealer told me that it wasn't covered as I am still under warranty and the manifold is part of the engine. Anyone else run into this or get this replaced under warranty? I am probably going to call the dealer today and if they still are not covering it I will contact VWoA. It wasn't ruinously expensive or anything, I just feel like I was ripped off.
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Nov 15, 2010 14:50
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Last week my brother and his wife picked up a new 2010 TDI SportWagon. So far about 400-500 miles on the clock. He was recently asking me about an intermittant loss of power, which he described as lifting off the accelerator for a split section and pressing it back down. I don't have any experience with modern diesel passenger cars to help him out any. It sounds like it has happened a few times. Any ideas?
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Nov 15, 2010 16:27
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Can he take it to a nearby dealer? The car only has 500 miles on it, and as much as I dislike dealerships they are much better equipped to diagnose problems than an internet forum.
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Nov 15, 2010 18:37
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Autism Sundae posted:Can he take it to a nearby dealer? The car only has 500 miles on it, and as much as I dislike dealerships they are much better equipped to diagnose problems than an internet forum. He is already planning on doing that. What I am trying to find out is if this could in some part be related to it just being a different style of drivetrain.
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Nov 15, 2010 19:03
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Does it happen when he's accelerating? Is his car a manual or automatic? Any warning lights?
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Nov 15, 2010 20:01
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Autism Sundae posted:Does it happen when he's accelerating? Is his car a manual or automatic? Any warning lights? No warning lights, assume its during acceleration. Manual transmission
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Nov 15, 2010 20:12
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hey guys lurker here. I am thinking about buying a 03 Golf with 58k miles on it. I was wondering is there anything i should be looking for specifically before I buy it? and what type of maintenance is needed for this model? Also I am moving to LA from Portland OR and planning on driving it down there this December anything i should watch out for or precautions to take before the big move?
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Nov 15, 2010 21:52
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If they won't do it under warranty I would contact VW directly: http://www.vw.com/en/contact_us/nav/contact_us.html
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Nov 15, 2010 21:54
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