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The Moon Babies posted:The Puntam Subaru is about twice the distance away, thanks for thought though. So what you're saying is that I can just go to an independent mechanic nearby, what would be an example of a place like that, and does it cost much more than it would at the dealer if your warranty is over? If you find a good mechanic they can be both better and cheaper than the dealer's shop. The only time it might be cheaper from the dealer is if you're covered by some warranty, recall, or service plan. Ultimately I'm saying that you need to choose what's more important to -you-
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Nov 15, 2010 01:23
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CrazyLittle posted:If you find a good mechanic they can be both better and cheaper than the dealer's shop. The only time it might be cheaper from the dealer is if you're covered by some warranty, recall, or service plan. Alright, thanks for all the help. 
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Nov 15, 2010 01:46
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JBark posted:Everything I've read regarding ethanol and fuel systems leads me to believe that the % of ethanol doesn't really matter. The components can either handle it or they can't. Since any car sold within the past 30 years or so likely was designed with E10 in mind, it's not really something to worry about. This isn't a great assumption. I had the gas tank replaced on my 06 Ducati since ethanol was causing the tank to deform. Which led to a pretty big fuel leak around the pump flange. Of course this is all over the exhaust header for the vertical cyl.
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Nov 15, 2010 03:09
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We have a '97 Impreza with some scraping sounds coming out of the front right wheel well when turning/driving straight.. But it doesn't always happen. Could it be a wheel bearing? I don't know how reliable they are but it's at 170k and I feel lucky that it's lasted this long from what this car has been through. The wheel makes no sound when up in the air, and it is very intermittent when driving. The guys at LES SCHWAB couldn't say what the cause was. The wheel does have a tiny bit of play when I shove it compared to the drivers side but I've never seen a bad wheel bearing so I don't know if this is one or not. (We're taking it Superior Import Repair in Portland this week)
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Nov 15, 2010 08:26
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CrazyLittle posted:68k miles on a 2007? gently caress no. Are you making GBS threads me? That's slightly above average, but that's a 4 year old car. It's averaging just over 15k per year. Again, slightly above average, but fairly reasonable for a commuter car. I've seen that many miles on 1-2 year old cars before.
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Nov 15, 2010 09:11
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Moruitelda posted:Are you making GBS threads me? That's slightly above average, but that's a 4 year old car. It's averaging just over 15k per year. Again, slightly above average, but fairly reasonable for a commuter car. That seems like its on the higher side for a commuter in the SF Bay Area. You can find cars with significantly lower mileage around here. For example, here's two impreza wagons on Autotrader: http://tinyurl.com/28x3uw2 http://tinyurl.com/25ext2p CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Nov 15, 2010 |
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Nov 15, 2010 17:05
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AquaDame posted:We have a '97 Impreza with some scraping sounds coming out of the front right wheel well when turning/driving straight.. But it doesn't always happen. Could it be a wheel bearing? I don't know how reliable they are but it's at 170k and I feel lucky that it's lasted this long from what this car has been through. Sounds like a wheel bearing to me, Jamal care to comment?
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Nov 15, 2010 17:46
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AquaDame posted:We have a '97 Impreza with some scraping sounds coming out of the front right wheel well when turning/driving straight.. But it doesn't always happen. Could it be a wheel bearing? I don't know how reliable they are but it's at 170k and I feel lucky that it's lasted this long from what this car has been through. My gut says it is a wheel bearing, but my wheel bearing issue was more of a grinding/moaning only when I was turning as opposed to a scraping driving straight or turning. On another note, can anyone tell my why my 2007 Legacy GT is constantly burning oil?! I am constantly filling the car, conventional or synthetic doesn't really seem to make a difference either. If anyone has had similar experiences, I would love some idea about what it is before I head into the dealership.
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Nov 15, 2010 23:59
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Dubber posted:On another note, can anyone tell my why my 2007 Legacy GT is constantly burning oil?! I am constantly filling the car, conventional or synthetic doesn't really seem to make a difference either. If anyone has had similar experiences, I would love some idea about what it is before I head into the dealership. Blow by turbo seals failing piston ring also a physical leak Make them do a leak down if you're under warranty even if they'll charge you for it. Is your car modified? I burn like 2qts every 5k. We think it is the turbo plus some blow by (my car is not stock and make quite a bit more boost, which makes this worse). Leakdown was fine. No visible leaks. Still a pain in the loving rear end. Honestly, I live with it for now. Hwoever, if you still ahve the OEM cat and need it working for emissions, get that fixed or it will kill the cat.
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Nov 16, 2010 01:20
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For the past few weeks I've noticed an increasing gas smell inside my '08 Impreza. I crawled under it yesterday and couldn't find any leaks. I couldn't find any leaks around the fuel lines inside the car either. Today I pulled the rear seat and opened the access cover above the fuel pump. There's gas residue everywhere on that side of the tank. Ran the car for a bit and didn't see any fuel seeping out or running down from anywhere. I'm assuming it's leaking out from the fuel pump flange seal. I also noticed that a few of the studs holding the assembly in the tank were more rusted than similar parts under my '86 Plymouth.  I don't want to touch it now since if I break one off it probably means I'll have to get a new gas tank. I might have to anyway. (over 65k miles on it so it's out of warranty) Jesus Christ I hate Pennsylvania.
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Nov 16, 2010 01:47
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Dubber posted:My gut says it is a wheel bearing, but my wheel bearing issue was more of a grinding/moaning only when I was turning as opposed to a scraping driving straight or turning. do a leak down test. cracked ringlands are pretty common, and don't always show up with a compression test.
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Nov 16, 2010 02:28
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Godzilla525 posted:For the past few weeks I've noticed an increasing gas smell inside my '08 Impreza. I crawled under it yesterday and couldn't find any leaks. I couldn't find any leaks around the fuel lines inside the car either. Today I pulled the rear seat and opened the access cover above the fuel pump. There's gas residue everywhere on that side of the tank. Ran the car for a bit and didn't see any fuel seeping out or running down from anywhere. sounds like something a dealership should warranty
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Nov 16, 2010 02:29
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Didn't know the GC rear crossmember mounted the differential differently than my GG wagon.    It looks like I just need to get some 3.25" Class10 long bolts with the same thread pitch as the old mounting studs. The two bolt holes line up the diff just the same. Also, what are these little round things on each side on the front section of the rear crossmember?  They aren't on my current one, but there's holes in the same place for them to be mounted. 
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Nov 16, 2010 19:37
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I'm kind of a newcomer to the thread, so I apologize if a similar question has been asked recently. I have a 1993 AWD Legacy wagon with an odd issue. Whenever I come to a full stop (light, sign, whatever) within 5 seconds there will be a "bump" for lack of a better word. The car seems to perform perfectly well otherwise, just the odd surge/hitch/whatever you wanna call it while stopped. Only thing that stops it from doing that is putting the car in Neutral. But it then tends to do it either shortly after going back into Drive or right as I'm taking off (and quite a bit harder then). I have next to no mechanical knowledge unfortunately, but would love to figure out what the possible causes are, and start getting it sorted. Hoping I won't have a transmission failure on the highway or something.  Many thanks in advance for any responses!
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Nov 16, 2010 20:06
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CrazyLittle posted:That seems like its on the higher side for a commuter in the SF Bay Area. You can find cars with significantly lower mileage around here. For example, here's two impreza wagons on Autotrader: Right. On the higher side. Not "gently caress no."
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Nov 16, 2010 20:07
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Vectorwulf posted:I'm kind of a newcomer to the thread, so I apologize if a similar question has been asked recently. Sounds like a bad transmission / motor mount.
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Nov 16, 2010 20:20
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Moving to Boulder, Colorado from Florida in January. I've got an '05 manual LGT (sedan  ) with a set of RE960AS. Do I need snow tires? Let's assume I'll be driving to work. Eventually. My friends in Denver are posting pictures of tons of snow on the ground, but I'm just not sure how often the roads are paved up there and my only snow driving experience is in FWD cars.Sure, this could go in the general questions thread, but I'm also wondering if anyone can recommend a good independent Subaru shop in the Denver metro area.
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Nov 16, 2010 20:51
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In Boulder you will definitely want a set of snow tires and a set of warmer weather tires. Some Blizzaks or Wintersport 3D's are a must.
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Nov 16, 2010 20:52
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Bud Manstrong posted:Moving to Boulder, Colorado from Florida in January. I've got an '05 manual LGT (sedan You really want to get snow tires. Forgive me if you already know this, but the thing to remember is that the tread is not the main issue or the selling point with winter tires, it is the ability for the rubber compound to stay soft and grippy in sub zero temperatures. Even if it isn't dumping snow, a set of summer tires will not be very responsive on cold pavement or slightly icy pavement since the rubber has basically become as hard as rock due to the temperature. I honestly believe they should be a legal requirement in some places. Dubber fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 22:45
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RE960AS aren't summer tires and do remain quite grippy on cold pavement. Furthermore, there have been quite a few tests done lately that show even summer tires retain most of their dry grip well into and below freezing. It's only when you add moisture into the equation do summer tires become very compromised. That said, RE960AS won't be all that great in heavy snow and ice conditions. I got by for 3 winters on them in western PA, but in a place like Colorado I would rather have winter tires. For example: http://www.caranddriver.com/features/09q4/2009_winter_tire_test-comparison_tests If you take a look at those tests, you'll see that the UHP All-Season tire put the winter tires to shame in dry and wet braking even though the ambient temp was below freezing at 23 degrees F. These are the conditions that most people in the US see in the winter unless they live in extreme climates. There have been a few tests in other places that have hinted that a traditional studless winter tire actually doesn't start hitting the peak of its grip characteristics until you get around -3 degrees F which is far colder than most of the US sees. Winter tire choice is really less about temperature and more about your winter precipitation characteristics. A hardcore winter is going to be worse than a good all season above 0F in the dry and salted wet conditions. A hardcore snow tire with large void areas for deep snow grip is going to do worse than performance winter with low void areas and tons of siping on glare ice. Meanwhile, tread channels become more important than siping when it comes to heavy slush. There isn't a one size fits all. If you don't have multiple cars with different types of tires or don't want to swap out frequently during the winter, you have to start asking yourself questions like this: "Is it worth giving up 40 feet of braking distance from 60mph in the below freezing dry to gain 40 feet of braking distance at 30mph when there's a few inches of snow on the road." The only way to answer that is to know what kinds of conditions you find yourself in frequently. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 22:55
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Bud Manstrong posted:Moving to Boulder, Colorado from Florida in January. I've got an '05 manual LGT (sedan Bob Log posted:In Boulder you will definitely want a set of snow tires and a set of warmer weather tires. Some Blizzaks or Wintersport 3D's are a must. Complete counterpoint from someone who (also?) lives near Boulder: For the most part the Denver metro area doesn't see the sort of crazy winter conditions that you would see up in the mountains of Colorado, Breckenridge/Vail for instance. The trend here tends to be REALLY HUGE STORM that melts off and you're back to dry roads within 48 hours. The air might be a little chilly and there's some light snows between the big blizzards, but this really isn't somewhere like Canada where you can bet on actually having ice on the roads for most of the winter.
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Nov 16, 2010 23:50
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bull3964 posted:RE960AS aren't summer tires and do remain quite grippy on cold pavement. Furthermore, there have been quite a few tests done lately that show even summer tires retain most of their dry grip well into and below freezing. It's only when you add moisture into the equation do summer tires become very compromised. Cold snap (otherwise, I'd have had Nokians on) in Minneapolis to 9F. Dry pavement. RE01Rs. Mad tyte drifto turning left at normal speeds. Never again.
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Nov 17, 2010 00:58
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nm posted:23F isn't that cold. Why is when anyone mentions cold, the cold dickwaving has to begin? 9F is far colder than just a little below freezing and are temps the vast majority of the population never has to drive in. Also, the RE01R is very very different from your run of the mill summer tire. I've already had the stock WRX Dunlops down to 26F in the dry with little perceptible loss in grip. I wouldn't push them much further than that and I wouldn't drive on them at those temps in the wet, but under the conditions they were fine. Around here we can get temps down to 0F during the night during the worst part of the winter, but realistically stay in the mid to upper teens during the day at the worst part of winter. That's a perfectly fine temp range for a good all-season and there's an increasing amount of test data that's showing those types of temps are too WARM to give optimal grip for many of the studless ice and snow tires for dry and wet (but not snow/ice) conditions. Yes, the winters will enhance grip when it's snowing or when there's ice out, but some places get very little winter precipitation or have well cared for roads. There are people on this forum that would have you think you need snow tires if it ever drops below freezing and if you see snowflake one and that simply isn't true. In fact, the vast majority of people that rush out to buy winter tires to match their summer set would actually be safer and better served during the majority of the winter by investing in a set of all-seasons instead. You match your tires for the majority of the conditions you drive your car in, not the fringes. Being able to stop 30 feet sooner in the snow does you little good when a deer jumps out in front of you on the dry highway and you plow through it because your winter tires don't have as much grip at 30F as your all-seasons would. The only reason why I even bothered buying winter tires this year is I have two vehicles now and one will wear the winters and one will wear all seasons and I will drive each vehicle as the weather warrants without worrying about swapping wheels. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Nov 17, 2010 |
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Nov 17, 2010 01:40
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Thanks for the advice, folks. I know about the different rubber compounds in winters vs. all-seasons and summers, but I was mainly curious about how the area itself is and how often it gets cold/snowy enough to warrant buying a new set of wheels and tires. We'll probably only be there for a couple of years, though I guess I can always sell the set of winter wheels & tires when we leave. Also, my fiance has a Civic and she'll hopefully be able to walk or take the bus to work, so we could just slap winter tires on that; it'll be cheaper in that tire size anyway. The Civic gets better mileage anyway . Here's a stupid can of worms question: all-wheel drive with all seasons vs. front-wheel drive with winter tires? Still curious about any good independent shops in the area. Since this is pretty boring stuff, here is some pretty tame MODIFIED SUBARU content. I picked up the Bosal "SPT 1.5" catback earlier this year. Bosal made the first-gen SPT catbacks. They sold for around $1000 because they had "SPT" on them and were sold through Subaru. Turns out that those exhausts had crimping problems at the mufflers, so much so that Subaru went with AEM for the second generation SPT exhaust. Bosal was left with a bunch of unsold exhausts. They fixed the mufflers and cleared them out. First to admit that it was purely a looks/noise move, but the price was insane for the quality and I love it. I still haven't gone with a full turboback; the downpipe would be easy/cheap enough to switch out, but I'd have to do the up-pipe too, and ...  ,  I'm running the stock Cobb "Stage 1" tune, and managed to convince myself that I'd have to get a new tune if I put a catless downpipe in. A new tune would probably up the boost, which I'm not too crazy about with that cat in the up-pipe still upstream of the turbo. Suspension's next anyway. Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Nov 17, 2010 |
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Nov 17, 2010 03:53
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bull3964 posted:Why is when anyone mentions cold, the cold dickwaving has to begin? And now I live in the Central Valley so i can do hot weather dickwaving too.
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Nov 17, 2010 04:24
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I had an exhaust leak somewhere, so I went to Chicago and got it fixed! Click here for the full 648x484 image. It's weird how serious my car feels now.
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Nov 17, 2010 18:36
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burtonos posted:I had an exhaust leak somewhere, so I went to Chicago and got it fixed! With that big of a blow off valve, it should be!
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Nov 17, 2010 18:58
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burtonos posted:I had an exhaust leak somewhere, so I went to Chicago and got it fixed! That intercooler means business.
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Nov 17, 2010 19:09
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So I've been trying to take my roof rack off because I hate brushing snow out from between its roof rails. It's the Subaru OEM roof rack for my car, and I have the proper keys for it but the keys won't go into the lock hole on one side so I can unlock the lock and remove the roof rack rails. Should I just spray some PB Blaster in there and hope for the best? I'm a little worried that it'll corrode some plastic components inside the lock cylinder.
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Nov 17, 2010 19:26
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So I've been trying to take my roof rack off because I hate brushing snow out from between its roof rails. It's the Subaru OEM roof rack for my car, and I have the proper keys for it but the keys won't go into the lock hole on one side so I can unlock the lock and remove the roof rack rails. I might try wd-40 first. Or maybe some canned air?
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Nov 17, 2010 19:57
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I use lithium grease for things like that.
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Nov 17, 2010 22:02
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The new Impreza concept has been unveiled at LA http://www.autoblog.com/2010/11/17/subaru-impreza-concept-la-2010/ Looks very volvoey. I want to see what a tarted up WRX/STI one would look like.
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Nov 17, 2010 23:13
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bull3964 posted:The new Impreza concept has been unveiled at LA  For the curious. I love the design language and the implied functionality of those split chin scoops, as well as the fender flares. A far more coherent look than the current Impreza, it takes the best of the outgoing Accord and butches it up.
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Nov 18, 2010 00:03
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Sterndotstern posted:
Cool, can't wait to see what they do with the hatch, hopefully it won't include stupid clear tail lights. I can't wait to see it with my own eyes when I go on Monday, I'll post pics if I get some good ones.
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Nov 18, 2010 00:29
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jamal posted:sounds like something a dealership should warranty They might, they might not. The paperwork says that the fuel tank and various periphery and gaskets are covered under the extended emissions defect warranty (since PA among others has adopted CA emissions regulations), but from the looks of it I'd have to have a smog test failure first (or perhaps a CEL with a related trouble code). The county where I live doesn't have to have smog checks or emissions inspection stickers (at least not yet). Strangely enough, it didn't smell like gas inside today at all even after I filled up this morning and let it sit at work all day.
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Nov 18, 2010 00:36
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Holy poo poo a good looking impreza?
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Nov 18, 2010 00:59
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jamal posted:Holy poo poo a good looking impreza? Don't worry, it's only a concept. They'll wack it a few times with the ugly stick.
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Nov 18, 2010 01:29
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I think the rear end looks pretty nice, but I can't get behind the tiny headlights, super high hood and giant inlet vents. It's growing on me. Looks like they somehow left even less room on the trunk lid for an STI wing than they did when they made the current generation.
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Nov 18, 2010 01:43
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Got a lot of Legacy in it, but without the fender/quarterpanel flares looking out of place and a much better looking hood.
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Nov 18, 2010 01:52
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Lazor posted:Cool, can't wait to see what they do with the hatch, hopefully it won't include stupid clear tail lights. I can't wait to see it with my own eyes when I go on Monday, I'll post pics if I get some good ones. nope - not clear.  I'm not so sure I'm down with the "box" corners.
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Nov 18, 2010 01:54
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