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Does anyone have any ideas where to find round yellow foglights that mount from the rear? I want to put them on the 2002. Everything I've seen online so far mounts vertically or at best an angle. I need something that will attach directly behind.
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Nov 18, 2010 21:45
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wallaka posted:They've been making water pumps basically the same way for 60 years now, I don't think there is some special technology involved here. Unless by "special technology" you mean lovely plastic impellers to save a buck. A water pump shouldn't cost more than a full aluminum radiator for the same car. Well the market for M car parts is pretty limited. For example, they only made 5,500 M5s in 1998. From 1997-2003 They only made 22,000 M5s. Even if every car had survived to this day (opposed to being totaled) and replaced theirs with an aftermarket part, the total number of water pumps made for M5s for six years is only 22,000. My company is in the process of designing and manufacturing a $400 sheet metal item (retail cost) and the first run of 800 widgets including engineering, tooling and materials is going to run us over $80,000. Add in shipping from China and customs and it's over $100,000. That's just for a simple sheet metal widget you can design in 2D autocad designed to sit against the wall in an office at room temperature. The most complex part on it is the casters, and we buy those from someone else. This is a 3D cast metal part that has to be machined, smoothed, bolt to another 3D object (probably the block of an M5 engine, which are both a) expensive and b) hard to find). Not to mention the engine changed a few times in that time period as well. On top of that, it's expected to work in temperatures from -20F to 260F while bouncing over pot holes etc. So yeah, if you sunk $100,000 into developing and manufacturing a part for a very limited market and didn't expect to make back your money in the first three years, you'd be charging a whole lot too. If this were a water pump for say, a Corolla where they make a million cars a year with the exact same water pump on the same engine for 2-4 years at a time, then I would definitely agree with you. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 04:46
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I've skimmed this thread for close to a year and have never really had a reason to post. Happily that's changed and I'm meandering my way towards buying a used BMW. Just like a thousand other jokers in this thread, I'm looking at buying either an E30 or E36. I've started to looking more in depth into the various BMW forums beyond this one and found a few E30 buyer's guides online. I've got $7000 to spend, but there seems to be a big range in prices for both the E36 and E30. I'm not quite sure how to focus my search and toss out listings that are trash. Beyond common sense red flags like no maintenance history, major rebuilds and rust, what's an ideal E30 or E36 look like? For example, this listing seems like a good deal cause of decent mileage and a pretty meticulous owner. However, I think I remember reading in this thread that $5000 seems like a steep price. Where do I go from here?
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Nov 19, 2010 04:59
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I can get an E46 330ci with 58k miles, stock, no accidents, clean title, 6 speed for 13.1k, or, a E46 ZHP sedan with 57k, stock, no accidents, clean title, 6 speed for 14.5k. Both 2004. Opinions? I drove a couple 330ci's, but haven't tried a ZHP yet. Neither car is local and there aren't any ZHPs nearby to test. Probably going to do a 3.07 diff swap into the coupe if I don't get the ZHP. ZHP is Imola Red, coupe is silver.
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Nov 19, 2010 05:20
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I would greatly expand your search radius and consider flying to look at some better cars if you are seriously considering buying that car for anywhere near the asking price. Yes, it has excellent maint. history, but keep in mind you are paying $5000 for a 23 year old car. That same money will buy you a 1996 3 series with the same mileage in Dallas, which doesn't salt their roads.
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Nov 19, 2010 05:23
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Anybody got a link to a decent website or writeup about the E46, more specifically, the E46 M3? I'm looking into buying one, and I am unsure what I need to look for- like common issues, price, maintenance, etc. For what it's worth, I'd be looking to buy one with 50-60k miles and manual. I do all of my own work on my cars- I just threw a clutch in my Mk4 Jetta.
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Nov 19, 2010 06:24
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:Anybody got a link to a decent website or writeup about the E46, more specifically, the E46 M3? I'm looking into buying one, and I am unsure what I need to look for- like common issues, price, maintenance, etc. This was my starting point. EDIT: PS, I replaced my cooling system when I bought my E46 three months ago. When I went out to lunch today, I saw a bit of a puddle under the car and had a bit of a freak out. Turns out that it's just my windshield washer reservoir or pump leaking the fluid I recently put in. Weird thing is that I put the fluid in about a week and a half ago but it didn't leak until I used the washers today. I won't get a chance to look at it until the weekend. Any input on the issue until then might be nice to read. barakus fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 06:36
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VanFullOfMidgets posted:Anybody got a link to a decent website or writeup about the E46, more specifically, the E46 M3? I'm looking into buying one, and I am unsure what I need to look for- like common issues, price, maintenance, etc. Main things on an e46 M3 above and beyond normal BMW items are subframe mounts tearing (all e46s really), VANOS issues, early cars had a main bearing recall, close-coupled catalytic converters burn out and are very expensive, and the Inspection I and II include a valve adjustment that dealers like to skip. Also, SMG pumps are expensive as hell and like to go out randomly from 40-100k miles, if you're into SMG. I'd look for an '05 or '06 car that's been CPO'd, this will give you a service and maintenance warranty out to 6 years/100,000 miles. Expect to pay 25-30k for this. ZCP (competition package) cars have no cruise control, but slightly bigger rotors and the Stability Control has a track mode that is apparently pretty good. I went for cruise control. Pretty decent maintenance thread: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=190111 What to look for: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=189390 wallaka fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 06:38
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manchego posted:I've skimmed this thread for close to a year and have never really had a reason to post. Happily that's changed and I'm meandering my way towards buying a used BMW. Way too high a price for that car. The ad doesn't mention the suspension at all which if it hasn't been replaced is going to need it as well as the flex disk and center support. 5k gets you the cream of the crop in e30s with some nice upgrades. That one is really really nice but there is a ton of nitpicky poo poo that devalues it to other enthusiasts as well.
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Nov 19, 2010 10:18
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Pilsner posted:Hmm, how about the timing chain tensioner? It's a two minute job, but IIRC he said he'd replaced the tensioner. Also the tensioner noise won't be that bad unless the tensioner spring has somehow completely snapped and the chain is worn to gently caress. That's one ugly noise. I think you just have to take the valvetrain apart pimpsolo, but you knew that already. Probably also stating the obvious, but you might as well do the camchain, sprocket and guide rail replacement now. Again, although I won't claim to be an expert car mechanic, could poor running and nasty noises which start pretty suddenly be a semi-sheared woodruff key on the crank? Although you'd think with a 4t the likely result is the valvetrain smashes itself to pieces (the M42's valves interfere, right?). manchego posted:I've skimmed this thread for close to a year and have never really had a reason to post. Happily that's changed and I'm meandering my way towards buying a used BMW. I'd go for the E30 myself, but then I don't know where you are located or what you want to do with it. For me the E30 is more fun with less input in terms of running costs and driver ability. With the E30, the short and simple answer is that you want a sound chassis and bodywork (i.e. rust free), and either a 325 or a 318is. Because M40s/M10s are too slow and the M20 B20 literally has no advantage over the B25, unless you have an irrational fear of the number "5". In the US, I imagine the 325 is preferable because your supply of spare engines and parts will be better. Get one that's been properly maintained - either full dealer stamps or owned and fully maintained by an adult enthusiast - and genuinely needs nothing. It just saves you a lot of little jobs. Your buying guides should tell you what you need. There's no $10,000 job with these cars, there are lots of $50 DIY jobs, and if you buy one that's been allowed to slide you'll spend all your free time doing those $50 jobs. I personally wouldn't worry about mileage per se. At least where I am, if your M20 or M42 self-destructs, you can pick up a junkyard engine for peanuts and rebuild the old one at home for shits and giggles. e: I don't hate that gold one that much myself, but I wouldn't pay $5k for it. Saga fucked around with this message at 12:52 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 12:46
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barakus posted:This was my starting point. Had this happen to me... The pump is a pretty common failure item. There is a check valve inside it that fails and let's the fluid out of the hole in the side of the pump. The pump is very easy to get to once you remove the tank, I think it was held in with just one bolt. Make sure to disconnect the fluid level sensor wire before trying to get the whole tank out. Also, make sure to replace the strainer at the same time as the pump. The parts aren't too expensive, I got mine at the dealer. E46 fanatics has a whole writeup of the process on there somewhere. E: here you go http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=748951 BloodBag fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 15:07
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manchego posted:For example, this listing seems like a good deal cause of decent mileage and a pretty meticulous owner. However, I think I remember reading in this thread that $5000 seems like a steep price. I might have to go against the grain here and say e30s are old at this point, and I don't care how maintained they are and how many records there are, things will break at any moment. If you look back at the 1991 318is I bought a year or so ago, owned by a mechanic, stack of records, looks showroom, nothing obvious in the test drive. Within 6 months it REQUIRED new shocks, new thermostat, new axle boots, new power steering boots, and now vacuum system overhaul, and probably new timing chain and associated parts. I honestly don't think this is a fluke, nor am I complaining. I'm saying that firstly, I remember someone once posted "who cares about a stack of records on e30s" somewhere in this thread, and I couldn't agree more. On a 20 to 26 year old car it's a crapshoot no matter how many records they have except for rare circumstances like someone that just photo documented replacing every wear part on the car within the past year. Because honestly, I don't care how many wiper blades the car had, or when the valve cover gasket was last replaced. If the car is running right now, and there's nothing obviously wrong and it costs less than $2500, that's all anyone can ask for. All you can do then just pray non expensive stuff breaks far enough apart that you have time and money to replace them. In short, if given the choice between two e30s that both visually appear cared for, one has a stack of records, and the other doesn't, I wouldn't have the slightest preference for ether car (unless I planned to sell it to people that care about records, which is the only good thing about having records on an e30 in my opinion). When (if) I ever sell my 84 325e, I wont even have so much as one receipt to prove the car ever had a single oil change in 26 years. Yet they will be buying an e30 in better mechanical shape than any e30 I've ever seen. That e30 you linked is nothing special other than the fact that I really dig the color (but I'm biased). I wouldn't pay a dime more than $3k for it (if that), and I'd take that stack of records, put them in a box, and only bring them out the next time a sucker is willing to come along to pay $2000 more for a stack of papers that mean almost nothing. So now you're in a situation where you have $7000 to spend on an e30 or e36. They're both almost guaranteed to have some problem within 6 months of buying them, and they'll both cost roughly the same to fix. Now you have to decide, "do I want the (arguably cooler looking) 20+ year old ratty e30, or a 10-15 year old smooth, quiet, semi-modern, semi-luxurious, faster, safer e36. It's honestly not an easy decision, but $7k is more than enough to get a nice e36, and have reserve cash for repairs. You'll be able to find e36s all day long in good condition, but almost never find an e30 without some combination of worn interior, paint blemishes, rust, worn bushings all over, greasy engine bay. And if you do, you'll be overpaying so much for it. Saga posted:It's a two minute job, but IIRC he said he'd replaced the tensioner. That's correct, I did replace it which had no effect. I do indeed plan to inspect the timing chain, sprockets, and rails within the next week or to (busy as the end of the semester approaches). What I really fear (but am really leaning toward now) is something like this: http://m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=594&highlight=upper+oil+pan+bolts I'm wondering if when I whacked my lower oil pan, if that may have cause the upper pan's gasket to shift. Which, when I put it like that, I'm really starting to suspect.  Can anyone answer if an upper oil pan gasket shift would not throw an oil pressure light, but would cause it to sound like like it does?
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Nov 19, 2010 18:04
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Pimpsolo, I still prefer my E30 because it's lighter, and I like to thrash the poo poo out of it on twisty roads (i.e. my commute).  I think we probably get better E30s in the UK though, as we have better roads to enjoy them on than, say, Texas or Iowa. All I can say about those bolts is that it's not a myth. I cracked my sump cover (twisty roads and tired springs and shocks = smack), and when I took it off there was a bolt lying in it from what I presume was the pump pickup housing. The other bolts in there were finger tight. Or finger loose if you prefer. (!) No noise though, it had just sat in the bottom of the sump cover.
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Nov 19, 2010 18:28
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No doubt, you're talking to someone who owns two and a half e30s. There's legitimate reasons to prefer an e30. Cheaper initial cost, look cooler, lighter, handle different (more fun), a bit less complicated to work on. I listed the positives for e36 in the previous post. I just think that for the normal person looking to get a 3 series < $10k, the pros vs. cons almost always favor the e36. That may not be the case for someone that wants a semi-project, has multiple cars, or doesn't care about paying a mechanic every couple of months to fix odd things. And I think that segues very well to what I just discovered. This thread motivated me to go ahead and pull the valve cover, this is what I found: .JPG) Click here for the full 1024x768 image. I found this sitting where the red arrow is pointing in this picture:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Otherwise things seem to look okay:  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I suppose I may pull the timing chain cover later, but I think my next task is to figure out where that giant piece of metal came from (any ideas???) and probably pull the upper and lower oil pan.
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Nov 19, 2010 19:09
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It's not part 7 here is it? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF92&mospid=47256&btnr=11_4367&hg=11&fg=25 Or part of the guide rail 6? I would just point out in defence of the E30 that that engine can also be found in Compacts and the E36 318is. Which you already knew, but I didn't want to let the blood libel stand. Pimpsolo posted:And I think that segues very well to what I just discovered. This thread motivated me to go ahead and pull the valve cover, this is what I found: Saga fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 23:48
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Had the time to take some more pictures of the '02 today after cleaning it up and before the rain started. Rear view, sans ugly bumper. Wish it was a Roundie.   The interior is really cleaning up nicely with little more than some Armor-all and elbow grease.  I took it and got it vacuumed right afterward.  I almost feel guilty, because at $1500 I seriously stole this car. Next up is a hardwood center console and I want to look into reupholstering the seats, the one weak spot in the interior.
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Nov 21, 2010 02:33
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That car could have 40whp and make a terrible noise but I would still love driving it just because of that steering wheel, gauge cluster and shift knob.
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Nov 21, 2010 02:47
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How good are automatic transmissions on BMWs (real automatics, not SMG)? They seem to be far more common than manuals. I'm looking at some automatics, but I'm afraid the torque converter is worse than a clutch.
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Nov 21, 2010 04:02
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^^^ I think they're reasonably reliable, with maintenance, in general. I think the main problem is BMW's assertion that the fluid is "lifetime" so often you find yourself doing the first tranny fluid change ever if you buy used. Especially since autos aren't typically "enthusiast" owned.Saga posted:Or part of the guide rail 6?  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. You were, indeed, correct kind gentlemanly sir. What pray tell could have caused this ghastly abomination? I'm sorry. I have no idea why I was typing like that. But seriously. At least I can sort of rule out upper oil pan gasket. I have no idea what in the God drat gently caress I'm doing right now, oh my God, I'll never get this thing back together. Oh God. I can't stop taking more and more things apart.  Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. Okay, looks like I'll be removing the timing chain. I'm cheap, should I replace all the rails? or rails and chain? Ugh.
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Nov 21, 2010 04:37
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I asked this over in the stupid questions thread as well, but would like to get more eyes on it if possible. I just crunched in the right fender and broke off the right-side mirror on my e28. I know we have a fair amount of Seattle-area people on here... do any of you have a recommendation for a body shop in the Seattle area? Lynwood to Kent is my range.
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Nov 21, 2010 11:45
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Pimpsolo posted:You were, indeed, correct kind gentlemanly sir. What pray tell could have caused this ghastly abomination? I'm sorry. I have no idea why I was typing like that. But seriously. At least I can sort of rule out upper oil pan gasket. I have no idea what in the God drat gently caress I'm doing right now, oh my God, I'll never get this thing back together. Oh God. I can't stop taking more and more things apart. I've always heard you do the rails and all the sprockets when you do the chain, because wear to the former will gently caress up the latter. If that chain's done over 100k, it's ready to replace. Of course, the thing is that all those sprockets added together are far more expensive than a new chain, so I guess it's a question of whether you want to replace just a guide rail and maybe the chain and shorten the life of the chain - or have to pull the engine again because your chain went and blew the valvetrain to pieces. Personally, I'd replace "that" profile gasket and do the chain, spockets and guide rails if I'd gone as far as getting the engine onto a bench.
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Nov 21, 2010 13:22
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Saga posted:I've always heard you do the rails and all the sprockets when you do the chain, because wear to the former will gently caress up the latter. If that chain's done over 100k, it's ready to replace. Worn chain on new sprockets is (and vice versa) is not a good idea. You get pitch mismatch, ramping and all kinds of other good stuff that just accelerates wear.
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Nov 21, 2010 16:26
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Crustashio posted:Worn chain on new sprockets is (and vice versa) is not a good idea. You get pitch mismatch, ramping and all kinds of other good stuff that just accelerates wear. Yes this. When you replace a chain on a motorcycle its the same thing. You can get away with not replacing the sprockets but it will munch away your chains life until things wear in. On a bike this might be okay because its an easy job but on an engine I think there'd be no question that you don't want to do that job again for the life of the car.
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Nov 21, 2010 17:20
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Very informative. The thing is, looking at the sprockets, they seem very sharp (vs virtually all the pictures I've seen online of people doing their timing chain job), and the timing chain cover was installed with RTV. This suggests to me that the chain has been replaced semi-recently. Does anyone disagree? Click here for the full 2048x1536 image. I would like to remove the chain only to allow me to install new chain guide rails but retain the existing (newerish? please correct me if I'm wrong) chain and sprockets.
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Nov 21, 2010 17:31
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Is a 1992 325i with 200k on the clock worth pursuing as a track car? Would I be looking at a rebuild right off the bat?
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Nov 21, 2010 18:45
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Pimpsolo posted:Very informative. The thing is, looking at the sprockets, they seem very sharp (vs virtually all the pictures I've seen online of people doing their timing chain job), and the timing chain cover was installed with RTV. This suggests to me that the chain has been replaced semi-recently. Does anyone disagree? Not sure how tight the tolerances are for camchains - for a m/c final drive, there is a lot of movement built in due to suspension movement, and hence a lot of wear can be tolerated. If the guide failed because of age (and not faulty installation), it may suggest that the job was done on the cheap and at least the lower sprockets and guide rails were not replaced. Or it may just be that it was driven for some time with a mostly-failed CCT, and this damaged the guide rail. Or the guide rail was reinstalled using an old circlip (bentley says that's how they're attached). Looking at the Bentley's (not precisely relevant, as it doesn't cover the M42) discussion of this, replacing the sprockets sounds like a PITA (but maybe I'm just oversensitive - it apparently involves heating them in a 300 degree oil bath). THe Bentley does of course repeat the advice above - if replacing an old chain, the sprockets should be done. But if you check ALL the sprockets and they look good, and the chain tension seems good and consistent, maybe just replace every guide rail and cross your fingers? You should able to tell once it's back together, as you'll hear the ticking (3-4k under load, IIRC) if the chain's slapping. PS - notice the OEM adjustable camshaft sprockets? Apparently you advance the intake cam 5o for raw powa ( (c) J. Clarkson). Never again will that USPS delivery truck out-sprint you!
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Nov 21, 2010 19:39
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So my girlfriend somehow managed to detonate a 2L of soda in the trunk of my 328i sedan while cruising around.  Even after drying crap out, only my high frequency music (tweeters?) are playing, the bass is completely gone. The amp in the trunk clearly got wet. Anyone know how to pop the cable off the amp? There's got to be some secret latch, the fucker won't come off. I'm hoping drying it off might restore my sound.. or I guess I'll just start listening to bass-less music. Country?
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Nov 21, 2010 21:38
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Ernie McCracken posted:So my girlfriend somehow managed to detonate a 2L of soda in the trunk of my 328i sedan while cruising around. Year?
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Nov 21, 2010 22:26
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revmoo posted:Year? Well, if she's out "cruising" while carrying supplies of fizzy, sugary drinks and can't afford to replace this poor guy's busted stereo, I'm betting she's later than 1990.
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Nov 21, 2010 22:32
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revmoo posted:Year? 2007 328i sedan, stock stereo package. And mid-eighties, respectively, if Chris Hansen is asking. I tried not to be too rage guy about it since she was at the store buying food to make me dinner, but a convenient excuse to avoid letting her behind the wheel of my car will arise in the future. I'm imagining a sudden screeching stop at a red light from 50mph or something like that did the trick.
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Nov 21, 2010 23:25
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SO I pulled the trigger and picked up the 2005 ZHP I found earlier on e46fanatics. This one right here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=800707&page=1 Its my first car purchase - I'm 28 and I've been driving around in cars my parents own for the whole time. So obviously, I'm slightly worried since I took a partial loan out for this. Regardless, its both exciting and nerve-racking. I feel like I'm definitely going to baby the car to no end. I'm planning on refreshing the cooling system and possibly flushing the transmission fluid. Anything else to suggest?
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Nov 22, 2010 06:28
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Got my eye on a 2002 325CI convertible with 58k, seller's asking 12,500. Looks to be in excellent shape from the photos, and has a brand new top + motor. Any tips on this? How far should I talk them down?
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Nov 22, 2010 06:55
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Ernie McCracken posted:I'm imagining a sudden screeching stop at a red light from 50mph or something like that did the trick. Much less than that, if it finds something pointy to hit. I once made a quick stop in a parking lot from no more than 20 MPH when someone pulled in front of me and had a 2L bottle slide off the back seat and nail the driver's seat rail. Screech, thud, fizz, oh poo poo!
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Nov 22, 2010 07:22
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Pimpsolo posted:Very informative. The thing is, looking at the sprockets, they seem very sharp (vs virtually all the pictures I've seen online of people doing their timing chain job), and the timing chain cover was installed with RTV. This suggests to me that the chain has been replaced semi-recently. Does anyone disagree? Isn't a sprocket with sharp teeth = a worn sprocket? I thought sprockets were meant to not be sharp, in order to reduce noise, and probably other good engineering reasons.
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Nov 22, 2010 10:42
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So my housemate's girlfriend's father is offering him a free BMW, which from what he's telling me, is a 87 E30 325 (maybe). According to one of her brothers, it needs a new fuel pump. The car is supposedly running and drivable, but I haven't seen it yet so I can't verify that. Question: How hard is a fuel pump replacement on an E30? Could it possibly be a clogged fuel filter rather than pump, and again, how hard to replace?
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Nov 22, 2010 12:09
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2ndclasscitizen posted:So my housemate's girlfriend's father is offering him a free BMW, which from what he's telling me, is a 87 E30 325 (maybe). According to one of her brothers, it needs a new fuel pump. The car is supposedly running and drivable, but I haven't seen it yet so I can't verify that. Question: How hard is a fuel pump replacement on an E30? Could it possibly be a clogged fuel filter rather than pump, and again, how hard to replace? Fuel pump is a 30 minute job. Remove back seat. Remove tank cover. Remove pump/fuel level assembly. Swap pump and wiring. Replace pump/fuel level assembly in tank. Replace cover. Replace seat. Done. If the pump isn't making any terrible noise, just replace the filter and see if the issues clear up.
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Nov 22, 2010 12:17
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Excellent. How about the filter? Easy as the pump?
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Nov 22, 2010 12:21
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Anyone else had an issue with their E36 eating rear shocks? I've been through two sets since April this year, the first being Bilstein B4 OEM and the second, currently on my car, being the eBay JOM suspension kit. On both sets, the rear right shock just suddenly loses all resistance, like it has been punctured. Can anyone recommend a good set of rear shocks that will work with the lowering springs I have on the car now?
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Nov 22, 2010 12:51
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Shadowhand00 posted:SO I pulled the trigger and picked up the 2005 ZHP I found earlier on e46fanatics. I know how you feel, having just (just over 2 months ago) bought my first car ('04 530d) at age 22, and previously driving around in my parent's car. It's nerve-racking at first, but it's a good type of nerve-racking.
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Nov 22, 2010 13:12
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2ndclasscitizen posted:Excellent. How about the filter? Easy as the pump? If the filter on a 325 is in the same place as my 318, even easier.
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Nov 22, 2010 15:29
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