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crime fighting hog posted:Looks great! How'd you do the wings? Straight out of the guide in the WD. 1:2 Fenris Grey/Astronomicon Grey basecoat. 1:1 Codex/Fenris Grey wash. Add a little black for another wash thats only in the corners right up in the wings. Straight Astronomicon highlight, then 1:1 Astro/Skull white then finally pure skull white for the brightest parts. Key is keeping the highlights very thinned down so you can build up the colour to different strengths so you dont need to do a million layers adding a little bit of extra skull white each time. I also kept each stage in a seperate pallet dimple so I could wet blend the layers if it got a bit too strong and needed the edges softening. serious gaylord fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Nov 18, 2010 |
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Nov 18, 2010 22:05
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Anyone care to share thoughts on this light/tent combo? Seems decent enough for the price, c/d?
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Nov 19, 2010 04:37
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SirJoeKCB posted:Never used it myself but my understanding is that it's paint that's the color of gray primer, not actual gray primer. Yeah, after some research that proved to be the case. I've ordered some of their proper airbrush primer and will report back.
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Nov 19, 2010 04:44
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Fyrbrand posted:Anyone care to share thoughts on this light/tent combo? Seems decent enough for the price, c/d? I have this or something just like it for taking ebay photos I bought some 20.00 lights to replace the crappy ones it came with but the tent itself is great.
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Nov 19, 2010 08:17
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For those of us with shaky hands, I have been using a PCB holder to keep my miniatures still. It works quite well, especially since I have a magnifying glass also hooked up at the same time. Here's the holder;  And here's it holding the new Lilith Hesperax. Sorry for the blurriness.  With the magnifying glass over the miniature. Again, sorry for the blurriness.  Crappy cheap camera. Waiting for my big new one. Works really well, allows you to get a good enough distance away that you can still use the paintbrush even with the magnifying glass where it is, and means you don't need to squint as much (well, at least I don't need to) when painting miniatures. Edit: Forgot to add, the base has a depression in it to hold a sponge for use when soldering. Easily converted to an area for a wet palette, and works exceedingly well in that regard. All for $13AUD, so for me it was a bargain. The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 09:44 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 09:41
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   This project taught me how to be patient with green stuff, that JB Weld is like manna from heaven (no pinning within the bull himself), painter's tape is my friend, and when mixing colours to ensure the two are actually different.  I also need to take better pictures.
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Nov 19, 2010 19:46
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:
Looks good, you'll get better photos if you light it from the front too! I need to get some JB weld for my warmachine/hordes poo poo.
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Nov 19, 2010 20:13
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Chenghiz posted:Looks good, you'll get better photos if you light it from the front too! I need to get some JB weld for my warmachine/hordes poo poo. Yyyyeah, I'll need to get lamps, then. That's just lit from the window. Oh well. \/  \/
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Nov 19, 2010 20:30
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Yyyyeah, I'll need to get lamps, then. That's just lit from the window. Oh well. \/  http://www.lowes.com/pd_203213-1373-FL-300NPDQ12_0__?productId=3122291&Ntt=clamp+light&pl=1¤tURL=/pl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dclamp%2Blight cheap! handy!
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Nov 19, 2010 20:37
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I just had a brilliant idea, but it requires something I've never tried before. Does anyone have a quick electronics guide to hooking up LED's on a switch and a watch battery? I know it's dirt simple, but I've just never actually done anything like it before.
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Nov 19, 2010 20:41
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If the LED doesn't come on, turn it around. I'm an electrical engineer, btw. 
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Nov 19, 2010 21:17
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Here, take a horrible schematic.
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Nov 19, 2010 21:25
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Doesn't it need a resistor or you'll kill the LED really quickly?
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Nov 19, 2010 21:27
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It depends on voltage of the battery and the voltage tolerance of the LED I guess. Unless the blow up from too much current. If it's a current problem, parallel the LED's, if it's voltage, put them in series. Or just give me the part number and I'll look it up on digi key tonight or something. Really, just start hooking up stuff and if you let the smoke out of the wires then you know it's broken. Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Nov 19, 2010 |
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Nov 19, 2010 21:31
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Prefect Six posted:Here, take a horrible schematic.  I think I'm just gonna go to Radio Shack.
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Nov 19, 2010 21:31
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Only if you are using a 12v power supply or 9v battery to drop the voltage down - a watch battery is usually 1.5-3 V and will work fine without a resistor
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Nov 19, 2010 21:32
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Fix posted:
Radio shack is super over priced, but yeah that might be the way to go in this case. Let me know if you need any circuits designed. Like a digital clock. I can do that. And stuff.
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Nov 19, 2010 22:24
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It's one step from clock radio to clock land raider.
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Nov 19, 2010 22:26
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Thunderhawk toaster.
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Nov 19, 2010 22:32
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Hey, I painted a miniature. Behold my WHFRP character, the mighty Norsecan warrior Arkfel Goblincleaver, and his powerful thews!  The red base is to pick him out easier on the tabletop. I'm pretty happy with the muscles, my first real experiment with proper skin.
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Nov 19, 2010 22:59
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Finished completly now so I got the proper camera out. Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.
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Nov 19, 2010 23:35
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Bhyo posted:Finished completly now so I got the proper camera out. Dios mio 
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Nov 20, 2010 00:01
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Captain Hats posted:Hey, I painted a miniature. Behold my WHFRP character, the mighty Norsecan warrior Arkfel Goblincleaver, and his powerful thews! I like it! On the other hand, my solution to painting skin is pallid flesh + ogryn wash, so what do I know 
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Nov 20, 2010 00:29
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Deff Dread WIP: The arms aren't glued, so they're kinda droopy. Next big step is adding all the rust effects.
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Nov 20, 2010 05:47
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Fyrbrand posted:Deff Dread WIP: Did I ever tell you that I love how your Orks look? If not, remind me to do so at a later time.
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Nov 20, 2010 07:28
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Fyrbrand posted:Deff Dread WIP: I managed to finally see one of these things last weekend and good CHRIST is it huge! Your orks are looking mighty fine Fyrbrand. Excuse me while I paint pansier Tau models rather than orks. 
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Nov 20, 2010 07:37
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After shelling out far too much money for Citadel washes this year, I've finally picked up some matte medium, flow aid, and bottles to start mixing my own with Les' Wash Recipe. This is going to be awesome  I do have one question for those that have gone before me: has anybody used Vallejo Game Inks as the coloring agent in these washes? They're a little more accessible to me than the inks that Les uses, as I can pick up a bottle here or there from my FLGS to try new colors without having to pay shipping and wait for another package from DickBlick. Also, awesome Orks, Fyrbrand. You've really nailed the silver/blue thing.
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Nov 20, 2010 07:40
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Tadhg posted:loving wash recipe: how does it work? Don't even try doing red. Unless you want pink wash. That's about all I can tell you. Hopefully since Les is a cool guy and can no longer sell the washes he made, he'll give us the recipes for the custom washes he once had. I'm really curious to see the formula for his armor wash. EDIT: also his baby poop wash.
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Nov 20, 2010 07:56
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NecronSchmecron posted:I managed to finally see one of these things last weekend and good CHRIST is it huge! Could you maybe (fyrbrand) grab some tau drones and ork them as I don't know... 'boyz' that have been subjected to a mek's random routine? The way you jack o lantern up anything you touch is nice. It comforts me. And nobody ever orks up eldar or tau. And it's like 'why not'. They're just poo poo on the battlefield, right? and orks love poo poo on the battlefield. It's their hobby. Orks are actually playing the same game we are. They just die sometimes due to lasers.
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Nov 20, 2010 08:10
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Sole.Sushi posted:I am too insecure in my manhood to consider using pink on my manly plastic space barbies. Good to know. The big thing that I'll be using the washes for is to make my own sepia color wash (12 pots of Citadel thus far from Oathing... That could have been another Valkyrie, dammit  ) but experimenting with new colors could be TheCosmicMuffet posted:And nobody ever orks up eldar or tau. And it's like 'why not'. They're just poo poo on the battlefield, right? and orks love poo poo on the battlefield. It's their hobby. Orks are actually playing the same game we are. They just die sometimes due to lasers. I have an Eldar Jetbike half converted into a Warbuggy. If I can manage to finally decide on a paintscheme for my current Oath and finish it, then the looted bike may be a last minute addition.
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Nov 20, 2010 08:19
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Tadhg posted::iamafag: I'll have you know I kept the pink wash I made, and have used it.  And no, Les really hasn't made a comment about his washes as far as I know, and his website is down at the moment, so that's a dead-end.
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Nov 20, 2010 11:29
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any of y'all used micro art studio bases before? do they need to be scrubbed down before use like other resin and such? these "tech bases" are pretty drat high quality!
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Nov 20, 2010 12:15
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:And nobody ever orks up eldar or tau. And it's like 'why not'. They're just poo poo on the battlefield, right? and orks love poo poo on the battlefield. It's their hobby. Orks are actually playing the same game we are. They just die sometimes due to lasers.   Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 600x646 image.
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Nov 20, 2010 14:20
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Fyrbrand posted:Anyone care to share thoughts on this light/tent combo? Seems decent enough for the price, c/d? I have this one. (but blue instead of red. but its reversible mine has gray on the other side.) I like it alot and it packs up really well too. The lamps aren't the best but they certainly aren't unusable. For what it is i would give it a 7/10.
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Nov 20, 2010 18:48
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Frobbe posted:any of y'all used micro art studio bases before? do they need to be scrubbed down before use like other resin and such? these "tech bases" are pretty drat high quality! Yes, scrub them down first, otherwise your primer will have trouble adhering.
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Nov 20, 2010 20:03
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Dale-Taco posted:I have this one. (but blue instead of red. but its reversible mine has gray on the other side.) I like it alot and it packs up really well too. The lamps aren't the best but they certainly aren't unusable. For what it is i would give it a 7/10. Thanks man. And thanks for the compliments on the orks from assorted peeps. This deff dread was a fun model to build and paint so far. So fun in fact, that I didn't do any custom work to it like I normally try to do with my orks. I did use a killa kan weapon, but that doesn't really count, I think.
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Nov 20, 2010 20:13
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More questions! I've heard mention about people using matte medium and/or flow aid to thin their paints more smoothly than water. Who here has done this, and in what combinations? Is it too posh to use instead of water, or is thinning with water for chumps? Inquiring  needs to know!
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Nov 20, 2010 21:42
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Matte medium will make a paint less opaque but still feels like paint fresh out of the pot, maybe even thicker. I usually use 1:1:1 paint/matte/water when I use matte medium.
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Nov 20, 2010 21:45
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Anyone have any recipes or ideas for a wine colour? If it involves making glazes or something interesting like that, all the better. I want to try to expand my toolset.
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Nov 20, 2010 23:41
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Anyone have any recipes or ideas for a wine colour? If it involves making glazes or something interesting like that, all the better. I want to try to expand my toolset. Golden Fluid Acrylics Primary Magenta #2421 Series 6. http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/color/fluid/fldcht1.php It's fairly translucent, so it works well as a glaze and shows up really rich when layed in multiple thin layers. Used it on some Slaanesh WoC back in the day.
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Nov 21, 2010 00:06
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