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Zeta Taskforce posted:I'm trying to build a root cellar. Ideally you want to have a place in a basement that stays very cool and damp, and you are able to store things like cabbages, rutabagas, carrots, beets for several months. The ideal temperature is between 35 and 45, but you don't want things to freeze. What I want to do is to set up a pipe coming in from outdoors with a miniature fan on the end. I want it to turn on when the temperature inside rises above 45 degrees. However I want there to be a thermostat that measures the temperature outside which overrides the system and only allows the fan to turn on when the temperature is below 45 outside. Otherwise on a warm day it will suck in warm air from outside and warm up even more. Greenhouse Megastore Growers Supply ACF Greenhouses Mother Earth News has several articles about root cellars. There may be some fan control information there. Also, search for terms like “thermostatically controlled” switch or outlet. Do you have a farm supply store or farmers' co-op in your region? The guys and gals who work there may have some ideas, too. There are temperature-activated devices associated with chickens and other livestock. Another place to pick brains might be a local HVAC service. Their techs can help with the airflow and power calculations and might know of some suppliers for the gear you need.
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Nov 7, 2010 19:10
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Zeta Taskforce posted:I'm trying to build a root cellar. Ideally you want to have a place in a basement that stays very cool and damp, and you are able to store things like cabbages, rutabagas, carrots, beets for several months. The ideal temperature is between 35 and 45, but you don't want things to freeze. What I want to do is to set up a pipe coming in from outdoors with a miniature fan on the end. I want it to turn on when the temperature inside rises above 45 degrees. However I want there to be a thermostat that measures the temperature outside which overrides the system and only allows the fan to turn on when the temperature is below 45 outside. Otherwise on a warm day it will suck in warm air from outside and warm up even more. You should be looking for two thermostats. One outside, one inside. When the outside one is above 45, it disables the inside one.
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Nov 7, 2010 21:02
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:You should be looking for two thermostats. One outside, one inside. When the outside one is above 45, it disables the inside one.
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Nov 7, 2010 23:10
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Does US national electrical code allow low voltage and video cable to be run in the same conduit as 110v?
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Nov 7, 2010 23:35
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GWBBQ posted:Does US national electrical code allow low voltage and video cable to be run in the same conduit as 110v?
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Nov 8, 2010 00:41
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GWBBQ posted:Does US national electrical code allow low voltage and video cable to be run in the same conduit as 110v? As long as your low-voltage or video cable has insulation rated for the voltage of all wires in the conduit.
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Nov 8, 2010 01:01
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:As long as your low-voltage or video cable has insulation rated for the voltage of all wires in the conduit. grover fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Nov 8, 2010 |
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Nov 8, 2010 01:41
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That code is for practical purposes as well as safety. Communication cables run parallel close to 110V will pick up lots of interference from the 110V.
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Nov 8, 2010 03:56
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Hi all, I was poking through a shed and found this. (click all pics for Big) (sorry for the lovely cellphone quality)  I'm not sure what it is, but I assume it's something to do with woodworking, I was wondering if anyone could identify it and tell me what it's for? More pics.    
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Nov 9, 2010 04:38
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Elijya posted:I'm not much of a do-it-yourselfer (my grand accomplishment was replacing a bathtub faucet a few months ago) but I've got a heat-leak problem I could use some advise on, as it's bad already and only going to get worse come January. I live in a duplex unit with high ceilings on the top floor, so there's often what feels like a 10 degree difference between the floors. My problem is with a room on the bottom floor, at the opposite end of where the heating unit is. There's a vent right above this window: Arriviste posted:My town's historic architecture committee won't allow my landlord to replace the street-side windows with anything other than traditional materials, so my boyfriend put Duck Shrink Film on the problem windows. He has used it for years over a large picture window in his home and it has held up quite well. I can tell a huge difference between the treated windows and the last two windows we haven't covered yet. Ok, I've got the plastic sheeting up, an a rolled up blanket at the base of the window sill and it's still not cutting it. Any other ideas? I suppose I could put a space heater in the room (are they ok on carpet?) but I know those things use up a ton of electricity.
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Nov 9, 2010 10:59
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If you still feel cold air from the window, it might be time to try thermal (insulated) curtains or even a thrifty solution. Window aside, if the room isn't getting sufficiently warmed by your heating unit, you (or your landlord, if applicable) might get a maintenance checkup. Has anyone looked at the ductwork lately? If you have ceiling fans, are they switched to the winter fan rotation?
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Nov 9, 2010 12:16
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LeeJam posted:Hi all, What you have there looks like a horizontal router table. You are correct that it is used for woodworking. I've seen it used a lot for hollowing out mortises. Basically, you clamp your stock to the table, adjust the height with that wheel below, then you can move it back and forth, in and out with the blue levers.
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Nov 9, 2010 17:05
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I have steel studs in my basement exterior walls and I plan to put wood studs in place of most of them, primarily for ease of hanging heavy things, shelves and cabinets. My question is whether it is ok to leave the steel top/bottom plates/tracks in place and just screw in wood studs into the tracks? This would save me a ton of trouble as I could just bang out the existing studs and not worry about new top/bottom plates.
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Nov 9, 2010 19:02
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I am a student who lives in my parents attic. Being an attic my room is pretty huge but a lot of it is basically useless space because I am tall and the sloping roof on each side is a jerk. I want to utilize some of the space better so I was thinking about shelves and art. One idea I had is that I could mount posters to wood and hang them from the sloping parts. Another idea I had was shelves sticking out from the wall, especially over my entertainment center, dresser, and desk to give me more space to work with. The thing is I have no idea how I would begin to do this, anyone done anything like this or know where I would start? It's all plaster/drywall and it's at about a 45 degree angle on each side. Thanks.
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Nov 10, 2010 04:39
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Browse some interior design sites for style ideas while you're waiting for some suggestions!
Arriviste fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Nov 10, 2010 |
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Nov 10, 2010 05:25
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Mthrboard posted:What you have there looks like a horizontal router table. You are correct that it is used for woodworking. I've seen it used a lot for hollowing out mortises. Basically, you clamp your stock to the table, adjust the height with that wheel below, then you can move it back and forth, in and out with the blue levers. Thanks! It seemed like a neat piece of equipment.
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Nov 10, 2010 12:15
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I'm looking to make some simple frames like this: I intend to make them out of 1x2s, but my only question is with the assembly as I don't have a nail gun. If I glue everything together with wood glue and clamp it until dry, is the glue going to be sturdy enough to allow me to hammer in 2" finish nails? Is there a different method of assembly someone could suggest that would be easier without the investment of a nail gun and a compressor?
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Nov 11, 2010 18:36
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porcupinecake posted:I'm looking to make some simple frames like this: You could try a staple gun, they're pretty cheap. That's what I use when assembling stretcher bars when stretching a canvas for a painting, and I think it should work similarly for frames. Just put 1-3 at each corner straddling the line where the pieces join on the back.
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Nov 11, 2010 20:15
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What's a good free program for doing mockups/floor plans/3D views of a structure. Preferably something ridiculously easy to use. It's just for a side-project and not something that will actually built. I've considering using The Sims 3 but it's more restricted on custom lighting than I would like, but I like the simplicity. To make it even better, I have no previous 3d modeling experience, although i did make a somewhat terrible CS 1.6 map many years ago.
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Nov 11, 2010 21:33
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Maniaman posted:What's a good free program for doing mockups/floor plans/3D views of a structure. Preferably something ridiculously easy to use. Google Sketch-Up?
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Nov 11, 2010 21:41
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stubblyhead posted:Google Sketch-Up? Seconding sketchup. My wife learned it in a few days and she used it to design our kitchen. Before:  After: 
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Nov 11, 2010 22:54
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Elijya posted:You could try a staple gun, they're pretty cheap. That's what I use when assembling stretcher bars when stretching a canvas for a painting, and I think it should work similarly for frames. Just put 1-3 at each corner straddling the line where the pieces join on the back. The way I intend to do it, it's essentially 2 frames hooked together. The inner frame doesn't sit flush with the back of the outer frame, so while the staple idea could work to hold each frame together, they wouldn't work to connect the two. I appreciate the suggestion, though.
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Nov 12, 2010 01:15
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porcupinecake posted:...so while the staple idea could work to hold each frame together, they wouldn't work to connect the two. I was going to suggest corrugated fasteners for the frame corners but if you just want the attach the two frames then glue should hold fine assuming there is enough glue area and the grain is running parallel.
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Nov 12, 2010 02:39
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I was digging through my local tech recycling and happened to find a 32gb iphone 3gs rear panel. The screen was hacked off but the motherboard, camera, and battery seem to be intact. How can I test to see if this sucker can be put back together?
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Nov 16, 2010 01:56
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e: wrong thread
Elijya fucked around with this message at 05:17 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 02:09
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My home's furnace was manufactured in 1990, it's a central air/heat unit located in the basement. The drain-pan underneath the A-coil has a leak, which I was unaware of. As a result, water ran down over the furnace components. To be honest, I don't know how long this went on because it would drain out right beneath the unit... I discovered it within the first month or so of owning the home. The furnace still appears to be lighting, and air is being moved throughout the system... however I can only see flames on the right side of the burner(s). The blower motor was so caked in dust from filters not being changed (I assume) that it seized while the AC was operating and had to be replaced; dust may be a factor as well. I don't know anything about HVAC systems, what kind of repair am I looking at? Can I clean the burners or something myself or should I definitely call a professional? I've got DIY experience and know my way around a garage, but truth be told I see it as an over-sized BBQ grill in concept and that's probably very wrong. I am pretty drat poor and need to know how much I should be saving away before I call someone out. Does anyone know what this could/should cost? TL;DR: Furnace/AC unit in basement has leaky drain pan under A-coil, furnace burner only half igniting. How much money do I need to have before I call a pro?
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Nov 16, 2010 04:36
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burdt posted:I was digging through my local tech recycling and happened to find a 32gb iphone 3gs rear panel. The screen was hacked off but the motherboard, camera, and battery seem to be intact. How can I test to see if this sucker can be put back together? If you plug it into your computer, I would think that it would still appear in iTunes if everything's working.
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Nov 16, 2010 19:54
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The Human Cow posted:If you plug it into your computer, I would think that it would still appear in iTunes if everything's working. I tried that but nothing happened. That either means its dead or that i'm missing some essential grounding or something of the sort. I did this at work so it might also be the security profile of my computer preventing USB communication with an iPhone. The protocol is pretty wonky, you need admin access to do anything. The screen was totally hacked off but the mobo and battery unit seem to be intact. I thought I would have to purchase a new charging unit but that's attached to the mangled screen bezel. I'm hoping I can get it to work. 32gb is precisely the size of my digitized cd collection. That would be very nice. Any other ideas?
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Nov 16, 2010 21:22
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I've recently started doing some woodworking, and just finished putting the last coat of poly on my first project. The problem is that I'm doing this all in my ghetto basement workshop and it's way too cold for the poly to cure in the time it says on the can. I've been letting it partially cure overnight, then bringing it up into the house in the morning when it's not fuming quite so badly to finish. This leads me to two questions: -Is it still curing properly, or am I going to lose some of the integrity of the coating? -Does anyone have any tips or tricks for keeping a project warm? I've been thinking of building a box and siding it in plastic sheeting, then warming the inside somehow, but I'm not sure how I'd do it safely and cheaply. Any other ideas? Bringing it up into the house is a nonstarter because the fumes give me a ridiculous headache after a little while.
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Nov 17, 2010 04:35
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My little cousins are really, really into Pokemon, so I thought it'd be neat to make them some pokeball-shaped soaps with tiny Pikachu toys in the center. How can I attach the three separate layers of color (red top, black band, white bottom) and the button on the front without mixing colors?
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Nov 18, 2010 05:05
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Grape Juice Vampire posted:My little cousins are really, really into Pokemon, so I thought it'd be neat to make them some pokeball-shaped soaps with tiny Pikachu toys in the center. How can I attach the three separate layers of color (red top, black band, white bottom) and the button on the front without mixing colors? Pour it over three times, and let each layer set before pouring the next? Edit: For the button you can make a plastic plug and place it in the mold at the appropriate time, then pull it out after the rest of the ball solidifies and fill the hole.
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Nov 18, 2010 14:47
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Kinda crossposting this because someone here might have a better idea what I need, actually... I need to mount a whole shitload of small ceramic sculptures, less than 1/8th lb each, to concrete. Drilling into the concrete is not an option, so mounting hardware is out. So I guess I must use either some kind of concrete based material, latex, glue, or epoxy. Wondering if anyone has done similar and can suggest something. Some of this will be outside so it should be durable to heat / light.
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Nov 19, 2010 21:32
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Beat. posted:Kinda crossposting this because someone here might have a better idea what I need, actually...
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Nov 19, 2010 21:38
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How do you think that will fare in like, 120 degree heat
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Nov 19, 2010 21:52
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Beat. posted:How do you think that will fare in like, 120 degree heat Liquid Nails heavy duty should hold up to 140, and probably higher. http://www.duspec.com/DuSpec2/produ...tType=datasheet
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Nov 19, 2010 22:04
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you ate my cat posted:-Does anyone have any tips or tricks for keeping a project warm? A space heater sounds like the perfect solution.
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Nov 19, 2010 22:48
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I'm wanting to have a go at carving a small wooden thing using a knife. What's a good wood to use, given that I'm a beginner?
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Nov 19, 2010 23:00
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Balsa wood.
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Nov 20, 2010 02:51
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you ate my cat posted:-Does anyone have any tips or tricks for keeping a project warm? I've been thinking of building a box and siding it in plastic sheeting, then warming the inside somehow, but I'm not sure how I'd do it safely and cheaply. Any other ideas? Bringing it up into the house is a nonstarter because the fumes give me a ridiculous headache after a little while. What about building a box and mounting a couple of 100 Watt incandescent bulbs in it? Should be enough to keep it warm without the risk of fire.
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Nov 20, 2010 04:25
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Anjow posted:I'm wanting to have a go at carving a small wooden thing using a knife. What's a good wood to use, given that I'm a beginner? A bar of soap. Like a cub scout. Don't cut toward yourself.
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Nov 20, 2010 04:27
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