|
It looks like a scion tc. I don't like it. I've always like the impreza because it was kind of quirky and ugly. That concept just looks like generic japanese sporty coupe #37.
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 02:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 01:57 |
|
|
My '93 Legacy wagon was just failed smog and was labelled a "gross polluter". I think this may end up working out in my favor because it looks like I now have the option of retiring the vehicle for $1k, which is probably more than I could sell it for. My plan is to take the money and put it towards a newer Subaru for commuting and Tahoe/other random road trips. My commute is 60 miles/day round trip (mostly curvy highway) and I probably drive a bit over 20k miles/year. Right now I'm leaning toward an '05+ LGT. Probably an '05 to keep the cost down, and probably a sedan because I haven't seen any manual wagons available in the area. I have a bunch of questions about this car: What should I look for when inspecting/test driving these? I read on LegacyGT that some people were having problems with blown turbos due to some problem with a banjo bolt. Is there a way to check if this may be a problem? Are there any other reliability issues I should lookout for? How much should I favor a car with 55k miles verses one with 75 or 85k (price wise)? Am I right in thinking I should avoid LGTs with aftermarket upgrades because its more likely that they've been driven hard? There's around a $5k difference between the Kelley's value and the Edmund's value for '05 GT Limiteds. My understanding is the Kelley's value is based on the prices the cars have been listed at, while the Edmund's value is based on the prices the cars have sold at. If a dealer is listing a car closer to the Kelley's value, is it reasonable to expect to be able to negotiate the price down to the Edmund's level. If no, what should I shoot for? Is the Legacy sedan large enough for taking 4 people to Tahoe? From the pictures I've seen it looks like there's enough trunk space if we pack light. What ski racks fit the sedan? The only thing I'm on the fence about with the GT is fuel economy. Since I drive a decent amount each year, the effects of MPG and premium fuel will be noticeable. Do you guys have any recommendations for other cars to look at? I'm also considering a 2.5i and pre-'05 GTs (no turbo). Not taking into account the loss of power, I have a feeling with the 2.5i I'll want to upgrade the suspension immediately and will miss the rear LSD in the snow, and with the older GTs I'm worried about the higher mileage and possible head gasket problems. Will the '05 LGT beat its MPG specs when driven softly? I routinely get around 28 mpg while commuting with my '93, which is higher than both the fueleconomy.gov and cars101 specs, and I'm wondering whether I'd get similar results with the GT. I drive pretty efficiently most of the time, but I have spirited driving bouts, and that's what is drawing me toward the power and control of the LGT.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 04:43
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:
Tired of the Lancer looking more aggressive were we? I like it. Just not like an Impreza. I can't imagine that thing on a rally course.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 04:57
|
|
|
I'm personally just upset that it looks like they're finally giving up on a low beltline and just bulging the dimensions of the car entirely. I _like_ that when I'm driving around in my '09 Impreza, I can put my elbow out the window and look at the small car next to me and barely even see into his window because the door takes up 75% of the car.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 06:30
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:
Hoodscoop?  As long as you can still get a hatch or wagon Impreza I'll be happy.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 07:33
|
|
|
Splinter posted:My '93 Legacy wagon was just failed smog and was labelled a "gross polluter". I think this may end up working out in my favor because it looks like I now have the option of retiring the vehicle for $1k, which is probably more than I could sell it for. My plan is to take the money and put it towards a newer Subaru for commuting and Tahoe/other random road trips. My commute is 60 miles/day round trip (mostly curvy highway) and I probably drive a bit over 20k miles/year. The banjo bolt is a known issue, and there's a TSB (copies at the bottom of the page here). If you don't know whether the banjo bolt has been checked/replaced, take it to a dealer, mention it and show them the TSB; they should check it. Other known issues are wheel bearings and injectors, I've had both replaced under warranty. The wheel bearing is easy enough to diagnose; you'll hear it. The injector problem usually shows up as misfires, and eventually it'll throw a code. That said, if you're looking at '05s with any significant mileage on them, those problems will already have been dealt with if they were there in the first place. I don't know much about the headgasket issue, but if the car has an EJ25 and is a 2002 or earlier, I'd at least ask if it's been replaced. I've got the Cobb "Stage 1" tune on mine, and my mileage has been pretty consistent before/after flashing. I get around 20-21 in the city and 25-27 on the highway depending on the speed limit. You can get a custom tune for lower octane fuel, but I don't see the point unless higher octane fuel just isn't available. If mileage and fuel cost is a huge concern, this might not be the right car. Then again, you're not spending that much extra per year on fuel, and the car is fun enough that it's worth it. That's more of a personal decision, I guess. With regards to aftermarket modifications, it really depends. You don't see nearly as much halfassed hackjob mods with these cars as you do with WRXs, but they're around. Some are really hard to ferret out, too. I found an exhaust leak on my car a couple of years ago when it was under warranty, and when the mechanic took it apart to replace the piece, they found that someone had done a really, really bad job gutting the up-pipe, and there were pieces rattling around in there. I'd never have known if the exhaust leak hadn't started, and some of that crap would have found its way into my turbo eventually. That said, if you're looking to get a modified car, I'd look on legacygt.com; the guys who sell modified cars there usually have a post history full of what they've done to the car and who did the work. At the very least, take a modified car to a good independent shop for an inspection. Price depends on the market. I practically stole mine four years ago, but I bought it from a dealer in Clearwater, Florida who had literally never seen one before it came onto their lot. The market just doesn't exist down here. If you're in northern California, prices are going to be higher. I'm sure some folks up there can speak to that specifically. The trunk isn't huge, but I've never taken it skiing. The interior is smaller than it lets on; tall people have trouble in the car. That Impreza concept looks enormous. Bud Manstrong fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Nov 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 17:43
|
|
|
Splinter posted:What should I look for when inspecting/test driving these? I read on LegacyGT that some people were having problems with blown turbos due to some problem with a banjo bolt. Is there a way to check if this may be a problem? Are there any other reliability issues I should lookout for? quote:How much should I favor a car with 55k miles verses one with 75 or 85k (price wise)? quote:Am I right in thinking I should avoid LGTs with aftermarket upgrades because its more likely that they've been driven hard? quote:There's around a $5k difference between the Kelley's value and the Edmund's value for '05 GT Limiteds. My understanding is the Kelley's value is based on the prices the cars have been listed at, while the Edmund's value is based on the prices the cars have sold at. If a dealer is listing a car closer to the Kelley's value, is it reasonable to expect to be able to negotiate the price down to the Edmund's level. If no, what should I shoot for? quote:The only thing I'm on the fence about with the GT is fuel economy. Since I drive a decent amount each year, the effects of MPG and premium fuel will be noticeable. Do you guys have any recommendations for other cars to look at? Amandyke fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Nov 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 17:52
|
|
|
Bud Manstrong posted:That said, if you're looking at '05s with any significant mileage on them, those problems will already have been dealt with if they were there in the first place. I don't know much about the headgasket issue, but if the car has an EJ25 and is a 2002 or earlier, I'd at least ask if it's been replaced. The EJ25 issue carried up till 04/05' in the N/A motors.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 17:57
|
|
|
Help me out here Subaru goons... My SO just replaced her 95 Legacy wagon with a 2000 Forrester L. The Legacy has significantly newer tires on it then the Forrester, so could I just do a straight swap of the tires, rims and all between the two cars? It appears that they both have the same bolt patterns and stud sizes. Both cars have completely stock rims as well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 19:34
|
|
|
7734 posted:Help me out here Subaru goons... My SO just replaced her 95 Legacy wagon with a 2000 Forrester L. The Legacy has significantly newer tires on it then the Forrester, so could I just do a straight swap of the tires, rims and all between the two cars? It appears that they both have the same bolt patterns and stud sizes. Both cars have completely stock rims as well. Here's a calculator for checking how different wheel/tire size combos compare: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos .
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 21:16
|
|
|
n/m
c355n4 fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Nov 18, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2010 21:53
|
|
|
Any recommendation for alignment specs for my WRX wagon ('02)? I had to replace the driver's front axle tonight and didn't realize the top axle bolt was an adjustable camber bolt. Luckily the alignment was already kind of shot so I don't feel too bad. I'm thinking: Front: Max camber (-1.3-1.5?), Zero Toe Rear: Zero Toe. Not doing anything performance oriented with it aside from ice racing. The miata takes the meat of the heavy street driving....
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 01:33
|
|
|
Amandyke and Bud Manstrong posted:Bud Manstrong posted:Then again, you're not spending that much extra per year on fuel, and the car is fun enough that it's worth it. Amandyke posted:Always negotiate a lower price. Lookup what the trade in value was for the car, you can bet the stealership didn't pay more than that. Use that + 10% as your target price, they do need to make a profit after all. Do you guys know if there's more backseat room in the wagons, and how the backseat space compares to earlier generation Legacys?
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 03:01
|
|
|
Blaise posted:
That's pretty much it. Zero toe all the way around and max out the front camber (without getting cross camber obviously if one side goes further). I think I can only get like -1.2 out of mine, maybe -1.3.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 03:22
|
|
|
Annoying: Apparently the shop's new machine flat out won't even show you a value if you go beyond the factory spec. So they got to -0.4 before it went red (at -.5). That's fine bc I'm not driving it hard, but I'm gonna see if they can figure out how to do the custom spec before they do the miata. Yes I know I could go to another shop but this one is across the street from work which is a HUGE plus.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 19:10
|
|
|
Blaise posted:Annoying: Apparently the shop's new machine flat out won't even show you a value if you go beyond the factory spec. So they got to -0.4 before it went red (at -.5). That's fine bc I'm not driving it hard, but I'm gonna see if they can figure out how to do the custom spec before they do the miata. Can't they find a car whose factory specs are around what you want and use that car instead? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2010 19:26
|
|
|
even daily driving around you'll notice a huge huge difference in the way the car turns in and feels going from -0.4 to like -1.5. You must at least go around a fun onramp on occasion, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 00:24
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:You would be correct that a car with aftermarket parts is more likely to be driven hard. However it is equally possible that the OEM part failed and it was replaced with the AM part. I wouldn't say equally possible. Just possible. How much does an alignment tend to run? All this talk about it has me interested. I need to find where the chirp for the locks come from. drat things are going in and out. Think it or a wire might be loose.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 01:56
|
|
|
Anyone have an opinion on the factory satnav for the 2011 WRX? I hear mixed things, but I want to see if it's worth the two grand it costs.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 01:37
|
|
|
It's not, especially considering it's just a double-DIN opening and can easily accept something like this $900 Pioneer AVIC Z120.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 02:14
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:It's not, especially considering it's just a double-DIN opening and can easily accept something like this $900 Pioneer AVIC Z120. Ugh, all the Double-DIN satnavs I've seen are horrible as far as interface and cost. I don't know why you wouldn't just buy a drat Garmin or TomTom instead and at least have a nice interface and more easily-upgradeable maps.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 02:45
|
|
|
DEUCE SLUICE posted:It's not, especially considering it's just a double-DIN opening and can easily accept something like this $900 Pioneer AVIC Z120. Seconding this. All of the modern double din decks have fantastic nav support these days. Jared592 posted:Ugh, all the Double-DIN satnavs I've seen are horrible as far as interface and cost. I don't know why you wouldn't just buy a drat Garmin or TomTom instead and at least have a nice interface and more easily-upgradeable maps. I couldn't disagree more. My Kenwood deck has a Garmin add-on module (KNA-G510) that's absolutely flawless - 1000x better than any stock, or aftermarket stand alone unit.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 02:55
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice folks, looks like the factory satnav is out of the equation. One more thing though: I'm told the WRX and STI nav systems have an engine monitoring screen, showing induction pressure, mileage, etc. I'd lose all of that with an aftermarket, right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 03:19
|
|
|
Just did 3 Dyno runs on the new 2011 WRX, read 220HP, 214HP, 217HP at the wheels. Dyno was properly configured and seemed to be running ~15hp lower than other dynos in the bay area. A 2011 STI was run on this dyno two weeks prior and put down 215HP at the wheels. I was surprised, it's totally stock.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 03:30
|
|
|
Went to a casual autox today and the car was awesome through the puddles this morning. At lunch I had the fastest time of the day with my slightly modded (AP, 32mm front sway, wide tires) 08 STI, hooray for Subaru AWD. In the afternoon it dried up and my times got faster but were bested by two turbo NA Miatas and a Honda S2000 with unknown mods. I was pretty happy with 4th fastest out of ~40 cars considering it included lots of other fast cars that should have been faster than me. I love putting sports cars to shame my super grocery getter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 05:38
|
|
|
I'm going to put my 2007 WRX up for sale this week. Unfortunately, I just can't afford to insure her and go to college at the same time. Fortunately, there aren't any non-STI ones for sale. However, this also means I have nothing to price it against. So, what should I price me car at? KBB says 12.5 - 14.5. 2007 WRX WR Blue Mica 5 speed Open source "stage two" with an intake. New tires and semi-new (this spring) front brakes. Body is fine; minor chips on the front and a few small dings around. Interior is immaculate. The catch is, the car was in an accident that damaged the driver's side rear of the car. The car drives fine but the the driver window whistles slightly. Edit: 73,000 miles oRenj9 fucked around with this message at 08:43 on Nov 22, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 07:08
|
|
|
Splinter posted:Do you guys know if there's more backseat room in the wagons, and how the backseat space compares to earlier generation Legacys?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 07:41
|
|
|
Bob Log posted:Just did 3 Dyno runs on the new 2011 WRX, read 220HP, 214HP, 217HP at the wheels. Dyno was properly configured and seemed to be running ~15hp lower than other dynos in the bay area. Good thing you didn't pay extra for the STI 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 07:46
|
|
|
oRenj9 posted:I'm going to put my 2007 WRX up for sale this week. Unfortunately, I just can't afford to insure her and go to college at the same time. Fortunately, there aren't any non-STI ones for sale. However, this also means I have nothing to price it against. Need mileage!
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 08:25
|
|
|
Jared592 posted:Ugh, all the Double-DIN satnavs I've seen are horrible as far as interface and cost. I don't know why you wouldn't just buy a drat Garmin or TomTom instead and at least have a nice interface and more easily-upgradeable maps. I'll definitely give you the easily-upgradeable maps, but the latest Pioneer decks are darn nice interface wise, and a nice double-din nav unit gives you a much cleaner more integrated setup.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 16:09
|
|
|
Put my winter tires on today, having an extra 3/4" of sidewall goes a long way to filling in the massive wheelgap. Click here for the full 912x687 image.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 18:14
|
|
|
Well, today I picked up an '01 EZ30D for my '99 2.5rs, which (I believe) suffered from a timing belt idler pulley incident this past August. It should be fun shoehorning it in there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 05:07
|
|
|
dyne posted:Well, today I picked up an '01 EZ30D for my '99 2.5rs, which (I believe) suffered from a timing belt idler pulley incident this past August. It should be fun shoehorning it in there. I'm also curious how much of that the 5MT can put up with before it shatters.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 05:15
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm also curious how much of that the 5MT can put up with before it shatters.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 05:41
|
|
|
dyne posted:so you guys don't have to wait for me to finish battling corroded/rusted bolts or any garbage like that. That's like 95% of my thread's content.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 06:06
|
|
|
dyne posted:Well, today I picked up an '01 EZ30D for my '99 2.5rs, which (I believe) suffered from a timing belt idler pulley incident this past August. It should be fun shoehorning it in there. that has a timing chain. something I've managed to avoid messing with so far
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 06:35
|
|
|
Hm. So my procrastinating rear end seems to have run out of time, with temperatures falling below 35º in daytime here in Illinois. Went to tirerack.com and checked out their stock winter tire+steelies package: Recommended Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D Size: 205/55-16, with Steel 6X6.5, Bolt Pattern: 5-100 for ~$600. From what I've read online, this seems to be the preferred (and compatible!) package for my 2009 WRX hatchback. Is this compatible? I just wanted to swing things by you guys, and am going to buy them NOW instead of later before I come back with "i slid my car into a ditch" story.  I wish I did this a month ago.Also, at what point should I shove winter tires on? It's hovering around 30º, but there's no snow. Put them on now and just relax if snow does (or doesn't) fall? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 03:29
|
|
|
Just Another XY posted:Also, at what point should I shove winter tires on? It's hovering around 30º, but there's no snow. Put them on now and just relax if snow does (or doesn't) fall? I don't know about Illinois, but in Ohio, I usually put mine on over Thanksgiving break. The one time I didn't and tried to go out on my summers in a snow fall, I drat near slid through an intersection and got t-boned; never again. There is no relaxing when you rear end in a top hat is clenched up tight enough to turn coal into a drat diamond. Put your winters on ASAP.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 05:07
|
|
|
I've driven 2 '05 GTs so far and on both the shifter was occasionally reluctant to move into gear, and shifting in general took more work than other cars I've driven. Shifting is much smoother on the '00 LGT, '03 Legacy and '05 Outback I've driven recently. Is this normal? If it is, is it something that can be improved with relatively cheap upgrades? I've seen a lot of people recommend Subaru Extra-S gear oil, but I'm not sure if that helps with this issue or not.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 06:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 01:57 |
|
|
Oddly enough, I've noticed that tire pressure plays a role into how smoothly my cars shift. More specifically, if the front and rear wheels start deviating in diameter too much either due to tire pressure or tire wear, it seems to create pressure in the transmission case that makes the shifting a bit more difficult and not as smooth.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 06:16
|
|