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Viggen posted:It's likely the exhaust. I've heard 9-5s that sound like whistles (not whistletips) from their tiny turbos with stock exhaust - these I've found tend not to have the turbo pressure gauge. I assume they did this because of the difference between the turbos offered at the time, and being too lazy(?) to reprogram for them. I've also heard some that sound like 'pony eaters.' You can actually get a pretty good rumble from the 9-3s, too, with a proper setup. I heard a Turbo X once (v6) and man, it was like sex. mine is kinda wonky. sometimes on line vertically won't work sometimes it's perfect. probably a lose connection? also, how much of a bitch is it to fix my drivers side window roller? I've read anything from it's a $2.00 part and a 20 minute job, to you'll break so many clips and get so pissed off it's worth paying 100 bucks at a garage to get it fixed. and this final bit is just to add to my original thoughts on the car, after a week of driving it, I find first gear ends way too soon. And why does my heater turn on FULL BLAST every time I start the drat car?
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Sep 21, 2010 02:42
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The heater issue: It's user customizable for initial setting. Check your manual, it'll tell you how to reset it. That must be how the previous owner liked it.
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Sep 21, 2010 02:53
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Four Banger posted:mine is kinda wonky. sometimes on line vertically won't work sometimes it's perfect. It wears out. There's a tiny ribbon cable that gets weight that shifts and slams on it. So, you learn how to solder things smaller than DNA, or you buy a reman. I've never seen a SAAB with a SID-out-of-the-MIU that's not had dead pixels. Never. Even a 2005 had a whole line of 'shakiness'  quote:also, how much of a bitch is it to fix my drivers side window roller? I've read anything from it's a $2.00 part and a 20 minute job, to you'll break so many clips and get so pissed off it's worth paying 100 bucks at a garage to get it fixed. It's a bit of a pain, but if you're gentle - once you get it down, it's pretty easy to do. I used this guide to help my buddy with his 2000 9-5. We ended up breaking several studs, and ended up replacing the trim with some from a junker that someone smarter had removed. That was the only one I've done so far. You can make 'sane' defaults: Set ACC to where you want it. I usually suggest ECON, low fans speed, dash vents only. Press the 'square defrost' and 'off' at the same time. Hold until the display blinks. Turn off the car for something like 20 minutes. This will be the new default. Sorry - omitted the 'hold until blink' bit! Viggen fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Sep 21, 2010 |
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Sep 21, 2010 03:02
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Mcqueen posted:I was unaware they changed to hydro clutch systems so early. Do you know where that nipple might be hiding? I have one of those motive power bleeders, can I just hook that up to the reservoir and bleed away?  Click here for the full 1715x1096 image.
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Sep 21, 2010 05:57
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For some reason I always, and I mean always get flashed when I'm driving at night and I'm heading down a hill. I've got my headlights aimed low, and they're not HIDs. Hell, they're just stock old 9003s, not even those retarded blue "super brights". Then, I tap the momentary, the other two bulbs kick in and I'll usually get a sheepish/angry glare as I pass. I really don't know why, either, as I've set this scenario up with cars of various sizes, and mine never shine into the opposing car's lights, unlike every drat 1980s truck that's on the road out here. Guess people just aren't used to SAABs and assume it's a Saturn with the highs on because there's more than a quarter-inch of light?
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Sep 21, 2010 18:20
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just posting a link here to my thread incase some of you guys just have the thread bookmarked and don't check the forum that often... http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3350462 Saab troubles.
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Sep 22, 2010 06:01
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Viggen posted:It's a bit of a pain, but if you're gentle - once you get it down, it's pretty easy to do. I used this guide to help my buddy with his 2000 9-5. We ended up breaking several studs, and ended up replacing the trim with some from a junker that someone smarter had removed. That was the only one I've done so far. I'm going to do the window roller repair soon, my driver side just went yesterday. I ordered 2 rollers since shipping is $5 and the roller is $3 so I might as well have another handy just in case since it seems to be a common problem. I've found the flat covers in the back of a 9-5 wagon next to the spare tire cover are perfect for extra small part storage such as bulbs, the orange high beam relays, fuses and soon a window roller. 
keykey fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Sep 24, 2010 |
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Sep 24, 2010 17:19
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keykey posted:I've found the flat covers in the back of a 9-5 wagon next to the spare tire cover are perfect for extra small part storage such as bulbs, the orange high beam relays, fuses and soon a window roller. Those drat high beam relays. I've managed to fix a couple just by beating them senseless, but these days whenever I find a parts/junker people are parting out, I'll snag 'em. $5 well spent, even though I only have a use for so many.  The drat weather is getting awful so I'm looking at an older 9-5 or similar as a winter car.. or at least tires and a plastic bubble to protect my paint.
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Sep 25, 2010 11:38
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I've recently noticed a strange 'clunk' in the front left (drivers) side when I am backing out or climbing an incline and I have the wheels turned to the left. I've checked the struts and spring - all seems fine, and it's tight as hell - it only does it once per drive, and I've tested pre-and-post clunk to see what the difference was with height and any difference which may have just been a simple broken engine mount (I drive hard) - and there is none. All I can think of is a supporting U - but I really don't know where to look from here. This is in the 2000 9-5 winter mobile I recently grabbed, not my 2001 9-3.
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Sep 28, 2010 00:23
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Viggen posted:I've recently noticed a strange 'clunk' in the front left (drivers) side when I am backing out or climbing an incline and I have the wheels turned to the left. I've checked the struts and spring - all seems fine, and it's tight as hell - it only does it once per drive, and I've tested pre-and-post clunk to see what the difference was with height and any difference which may have just been a simple broken engine mount (I drive hard) - and there is none. All I can think of is a supporting U - but I really don't know where to look from here. This is in the 2000 9-5 winter mobile I recently grabbed, not my 2001 9-3. I had that same issue with my 99 9-5, I replaced the ball joint, now it's completely quiet. On a side note, what type of oil is recommended for a 9-5 with 133,000 miles on it? It's hitting the 3,000 mile mark and oil change time again. I keep finding combo synthetic for the 4 cyls, but nothing on the 2.8l v6 turbo engines. keykey fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Sep 28, 2010 |
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Sep 28, 2010 21:59
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keykey posted:I had that same issue with my 99 9-5, I replaced the ball joint, now it's completely quiet. It's got a lot of miles, but the engine is in pretty good shape. I checked and at least the left strut is worn to death, and my little dribble of oil isn't just from the crank seal anymore.. it's a gentle burble, and seems to be coming from the oil pump seal, and harder down timing cover, now dribbling down the side. All in about 3,000 miles.  Mobil 1 is always recommended. Always.
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Sep 29, 2010 00:52
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Assuming the item they have in their inventory matches the listing picture: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNCUT-01-02-03-04-SAAB-9-3-9-5-93-95-TURBO-REMOTE-KEY-/180568873012 This key's technology should be compatible with a 1999 9-3, right? I'm puzzled that the listed supported range is 2001-4. That seems to straddle model years. Not that key styles couldn't stay the same, but it would be unusual.
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Oct 3, 2010 06:03
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I'm pretty sure, but don't quote me as I'm just going from a comparison image someone linked on SaabCentral or somewhere, that the 1998-2000 had the "slug" remote and 2001 moved into the integrated keys. Unfortunately, it said nothing about compatibility.
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Oct 3, 2010 06:33
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kimbo305 posted:This key's technology should be compatible with a 1999 9-3, right? I'm puzzled that the listed supported range is 2001-4. That seems to straddle model years. Not that key styles couldn't stay the same, but it would be unusual. Yeah, it'll work fine - you just need it cut to fit and programmed for your system. The 'slug' that was posted earlier in this thread was common through 2000, and the keys are universal between the 9-3 and 9-5 of these years. This reminds me - you almost never want to mess with your twice/dice if you can help it. My ignition lock was starting to go out and was so worn it would only work with the one 'always used/worn' key. I ended up ordering a new cyl to match so I didn't have to replace the locks on the doors, the trunk, the keys, and have the module reprogrammed. Still cost about a bill for the drat thing though. Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 3, 2010 |
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Oct 3, 2010 17:36
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edit: never mind, figured out retarded saab cartridge filter crap myself
Straker fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Oct 26, 2010 |
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Oct 15, 2010 01:39
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How much work would it be to replace a slave cylinder on a 1991 9000 Aero? Someone near me is selling a gorgeous one for cheap, but it needs said slave cylinder done in order to be drivable. EDIT: Also, any general stuff to look for with these cars? Is it better to look for a later one? TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Oct 24, 2010 |
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Oct 24, 2010 00:13
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TheJeffers posted:How much work would it be to replace a slave cylinder on a 1991 9000 Aero? Someone near me is selling a gorgeous one for cheap, but it needs said slave cylinder done in order to be drivable. But don't give up, even if you don't buy this one, find a manual one, don't buy an auto.
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Oct 24, 2010 14:44
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InitialDave posted:Unless I'm mistaken, they're a concentric design, so yes, it's going to be hard work. I just found the quasimotors walkthrough for it, and it sounds like something I could do, so I might just go ahead and get it. Seller says it's got a couple electrical gremlins as well-the rear windows don't work and the radio won't turn on. I suppose that you can't really complain for ~$600.  Also, it's a Turbo, not an Aero. Here's a couple pics:  
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Oct 24, 2010 20:21
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That's really the best color, and the paint looks pretty much intact too. Nice find. PS: Am I the only '08+ 9-3 owner in the thread?
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Nov 23, 2010 23:06
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I'm looking at this car: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...&standard=false Why the hell is it so drat cheap? Is this a good deal?
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Nov 24, 2010 03:02
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base model, first year of the redesign, high-ish miles. 03 is a particularly troubled model year for the new 9-3 sedan.
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Nov 24, 2010 03:59
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In a similar vein to the a couple posts up. I found an add for a 2000 9-3 coupe with 140k for only $2,250. It seems it is at a wholesaler, but that still seems really cheap. Looking at KBB, retail looks more like $3,000. I tried to do a quick google search on known issues and I did find something on engine sludge, but I am not sure the details. Is this a bad deal? Is the car likely to have a lot of issues? I should mention it is an auto, but I don't care that much about autos and I won't be driving it much anyway.
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Nov 24, 2010 15:51
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Gripen5 posted:I tried to do a quick google search on known issues and I did find something on engine sludge, but I am not sure the details. Is this a bad deal? Is the car likely to have a lot of issues? I should mention it is an auto, but I don't care that much about autos and I won't be driving it much anyway. Engine sludge and turbo lifespan are the major issues with these cars, and they're definitely major issues, because without careful inspection, you might not know how good of a specimen you have. Even with inspection, it might be hard to tell. More minor issues are the info display going out and the DIC randomly dying. This is not gonna be as trouble free as a Corolla from the same year, basically. Depending on where you are, that price seems a little on the high side. I'd only go for it if the owner knows about the sludging issues and can back up maintenance with lots of records. In other news, did ssh/SaabFanatic ever reregister? I don't know what he got banned for but he was a really good source of Saab info and posted here quite a bit.
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Nov 24, 2010 22:47
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Awhile back someone posted pictures of their new 9-3. It was blue and had auxiliary fog lights on the grill. I can't find this picture in the thread anymore though. Did anyone happen to save it?
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Nov 26, 2010 06:19
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Gripen5 posted:In a similar vein to the a couple posts up. I found an add for a 2000 9-3 coupe with 140k for only $2,250. It seems it is at a wholesaler, but that still seems really cheap. Looking at KBB, retail looks more like $3,000. Your best bet with a 'sludger' is dropping the oil pan and checking the pickup. As already mentioned, you should check to see that it has the PCV#6 update (both B235 and B205 engines of this time should have this update done.) I'd suggest you take it to a local independent for a once-over; that can be a great deal, or an expensive one. The good news is that those transmissions are pretty solid, if not a little boring.
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Dec 3, 2010 21:01
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Someone please tell me I'm not crazy for entertaining this 1995 Saab 900 SE w sunroof, manual, power windows, only 75K miles - $2900 (DC/ NOVA) I'm meeting the owner in 3 hours to check it out. What's crazy is that its so similar to college car 1995 900 SE Turbo 5 spd that met it's sad demise in a snowstorm a few years back. Anything I should be aware of with the V6? Both my previous Saabs were I4's. Edit: Going to meet them today to drive it and check it out, then going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow to have it torn apart before I make a final decision. And my old car from 2007 if anybody remembers my thread 
JayKay fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Dec 6, 2010 20:26
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JayKay posted:Anything I should be aware of with the V6? Both my previous Saabs were I4's. 0) I wouldn't pay over $1500 (locally) for a 900 SE. Period. 1) Transmission parts are difficult to find, and it's likely to have been abused. 2) Be very wary if it is slow/'sticky' at low idle, it could be sludgy/trashed. 3) DICs were of varying reliability for 94/95; I'd check for an updated one installed. 4) Get the VIN and check it out. There are some people on different networks who can/will check out work done during the car's warranty period. SAABNet, SaabCentral come to mind. 5) The 2.5L is an Opel engine, and virtually every ASE mech I know dislikes them compared to even the GM 3.0 v6 (which had a common oil cooler issue which required near-complete-disassembly to fix). Take that as you will.
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Dec 6, 2010 21:30
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FWIW, this is what you should refer to since it's a private party: http://www.kbb.com/used-cars/saab/9...e&mileage=75000 He threw you to "suggested retail value" unless he's a dealer or willing to do everything a dealer has to do ahead of time before time of transaction and has documentation to prove it like a dealer, which in his case would mean giving it to a 3rd party garage to certify everything. Also, he tossed it to excellent condition. Let's get realistic, it's a 95 Saab, there really isn't anything it can do to be in excellent condition unless it was kept under garaged conditions with only a few thousand miles on it. In any case, it's craigslist and as much as I hate people calling me up only to talk me down on price, in this case he needs to live in reality and know what he has. I guarantee, you'll be fixing stuff on this car in no time.
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Dec 6, 2010 22:30
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Just got back and I'm probably going to pass. My bad idea senses are tingling. The owner definitely overstated the condition of the car. I'd say it's "good" at best. The clutch is mushy and really close to the floor and according to her it's the original clutch. Also there's evidence of oil/gunk in the bottom of the engine compartment. I pressed her about this and she said it was a "oil filter" issue that leaked in the past that was fixed. The timing belts looked good but I wasn't able to determine if the pulleys were replaced or not. The tranny shifted well, no problems finding the gates. It had a smooth idle, nothing noticeable. While buying my 1991 9000 for $900 back in the day was a gamble that payed off, I'm not feeling so hot about this one. I'm contemplating is it even worth it to take it to my mechanic for them to do an inspection. Oh well, too good to be true.
JayKay fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Dec 6, 2010 23:38
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JayKay posted:Just got back and I'm probably going to pass. You have chosen.. wisely. For that much cash, you can find a not-too-sludged 9-5 from '98-02, and just buy a new turbo and clean it up. They make awesome daily drivers.
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Dec 7, 2010 00:08
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I bought my wifes '99 9-5 wagon with 120k miles on it for $3000 with a stack of service records dating back to the original purchase. The only way to buy a Saab with 80k+ miles is with all the details, they are just too finicky to not know what has been done to it. On the plus side, besides the corvette, it is really one the easiest cars I've had to work on.
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Dec 7, 2010 04:14
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This is either Hail damage or this Saabaru was parked on a driving range. http://www.wpaa.net/itemDetail.php?stock=86517 Of course it passed the Hail Damage check on Autocheck.  Viggen posted:You have chosen.. wisely. For that much cash, you can find a not-too-sludged 9-5 from '98-02, and just buy a new turbo and clean it up. They make awesome daily drivers. Any reason you suggest the 9-5 over the 9-3? Also, what would be the sweetspot for $7000? JayKay fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 00:49
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We paid about $7k for our 2000 9-3 SE convertible. It was a great way to spend $7k.
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Dec 11, 2010 01:38
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Gotta say if I had the 5K I would buy that Saabaru in a new york minute! Who cares about the hail damage! I bet it's comfy, nothing technically wrong, and it would be the best rallyX/autoX car ever... My Saab is killing me again though. My saga starts with a heater hose blowing, I bypassed it for the summer and got it replaced just last month. During the summer I also noticed the car running cool and replaced the thermostat. I also noticed the temp gauge reading weird, and when looking for a short I pulled the wires clean out of the temp sensor (not pulling hard, just old part). So I have a new thermostat, temp sensor, and heater hoses. The car worked PERFECT - got up to temp quick, stayed there, good heat. I was happy! Then the coolant expansion tank blew and sprayed coolant all over the engine.  Not to be beaten by the Sweedes, I went to the junkyard and grabbed the tank for 25bux - just installed it today. Now, the car temp was reading really low. I got the idea to let it sit around and idle, and the temp climbed to normal. When I drive, it went back down to Cold. So, it acts like a busted thermostat. BUT IT'S BRAND NEW!  I guess I'm going to take it all apart and check if something got jammed in the thermostat or whatever. Also the forecast for the next ever calls for rain in the PNW, and I've got no garage.  SAAB!
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Dec 13, 2010 01:42
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Captain Crunk posted:Gotta say if I had the 5K I would buy that Saabaru in a new york minute! Who cares about the hail damage! I bet it's comfy, nothing technically wrong, and it would be the best rallyX/autoX car ever... I'd be lying if I said I wasn't thinking about it. I would love to get a Saabaru with a stick, I'm just worried that it's a ticking time bomb. Edit: Those aren't from hail damage, it's Sweedish/Japanese Speed Diviots
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Dec 13, 2010 03:35
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It would be interesting to buy that and then find a really good PDR guy just to see how many they could get out. I'd bet with enough time a PDF wizard could make that car look almost new.
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Dec 13, 2010 04:28
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Blargh, trying to decide between the Divoted 9-2x 5spd from that auto auction for $4,900 with 101k or a much nicer 9-2X auto with 86k for $8,995. I guess technically the money saved from the Divotmobile could go towards whatever needs to be fixed compared to the auto counterpart.
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Dec 13, 2010 14:34
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My '99 9-5 leaks a very small amount of coolant when the air conditioner is used. Usually you can only smell it and see a discolorization after the condensation on the ground has dried up from the water run off on the passenger side. I've not had to replace anything on the cooling system yet for this vehicle, does this sound like a typical symptom of a bad coolant bypass valve or something else?
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Dec 15, 2010 19:46
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What are people running for after market wheels on the 9-5? I curbed mine bad right after a snow storm, cracked a rim, and threw the winter rubbers on some steelies and am using this as an excuse to upgrade for my summers. I'm thinking of going with 17", 18's just look too big. Opinions?
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Dec 16, 2010 02:14
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In case nobody saw my post in the Subaru thread, I ended up buying that Hail Damaged Saabaru for $4700. Just need to pick up some replacement bulbs, get a few key fobs, and a new shifter knob and I'm set.
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Dec 16, 2010 03:24
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