|
oRenj9 posted:
Awesome. Just wanted to confirm: Dunlop SP Winter Sport 3D Size: 205/55-16, with Steel 6X6.5, Bolt Pattern: 5-100 will work for 2009 WRX hatchback, yes?
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 06:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 17:26 |
|
|
bull3964 posted:Oddly enough, I've noticed that tire pressure plays a role into how smoothly my cars shift. I noticed exactly the same thing. In my case, having the fronts 4PSI higher than the rear was the sweet spot. I tried the Uncle Scotty cocktail (is that the right name?) when I did the first fluid change, and that actually helped quite a bit with the shift smoothness as well, especially when it was cold.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 11:37
|
|
|
I keep toying with the idea of picking up a 2011 STI Limited 4 door. One of my concerns is how the gap has closed so much between the WRX and the STI for 2011. On a quick glance the WRX could fool people for an STI outside of the wheels and the wing. My concern is spending $8000+ more on the STI and getting 40hp, only to have subaru turn around and upgrade the 2012 STI to something more special. I drove both the 2011 WRX and the STI back to back. I really like the extra power in the STI and the 6 speed, but Im not sure if its worth the extra $8000+. Its not a matter of me saving the money and settling on the WRX because I dont think in the end Id be happy without SI Drive, the 6 speed or the extra power. It just feels like the two models should be separated more than they currently are and Im wondering if that is something that will end up happening in the future. Id be pissed if I bought a 2011 STI and then found out the 2012 is coming with direct injection and an extra 30-40hp. (Im sure 08 WRX owners know the feeling Im talking about when the 09 WRX news was announced)
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 00:45
|
|
|
Franco Caution posted:Id be pissed if I bought a 2011 STI and then found out the 2012 is coming with direct injection and an extra 30-40hp. (Im sure 08 WRX owners know the feeling Im talking about when the 09 WRX news was announced) You're going to be saying that until the end of time. Just pull the trigger on the STI. If Subaru does decide to improve it (they probably won't), then you will still have the option of modding. Stage 2 still gives some healthy gains, and there are plenty of drop in turbo upgrades for around a grand. Get the STI. It is definitely worth the extra $8k.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 02:29
|
|
|
My only issue with modding is I like the idea of having a warranty, especially on a brand new car. Im sure then flashed there is a way around SOA finding out or having it put back to stock for warranty work. Id bet SOA wouldnt be too happy about a turbo swap and a warranty claim though. Its funny to read back on message boards to before the 09s came out. There is all this talk of the WRX getting 265 and the STI being up in the 330 range with a side order of rainbows. Sad to see only part of that speculation came true. Same thing now though. A lot of "so my insider friend has the scoop on the 2012 STI...direct injection, switching to timing chain, 330+hp, sub 4 second cars for sure man!!" Plus I wonder what Subaru will do now that Mitsubishi might not make another EVO. You might be right as its sort of stupid to compete and improve a product when the competition is a ghost. Franco Caution fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Nov 26, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 03:51
|
|
|
I struggled with the same dilemma (for about 5 minutes mind you) when I bought my 2010 STI a few months ago knowing drat well a refresh was due. I can tell you with out a doubt in my mind I do not regret one bit buying the 2010. The transmission is better, SI Drive is a dream come true for commuting, DCCD is awesome for AutoX & RallyX, and (because it bears repeating) the transmission is SO MUCH BETTER than the WRX (I had an 08 previously).
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 03:57
|
|
|
SI drive gets a bad rep from some people but I really liked it when I got to play with it. It was easily one of my favorite parts of the car. One of the few negatives would have to be the seats. To me they seemed so worthless for such a nice car. Even more sad when you realize the nice base Recaros the EVO X comes with. 2011 STI with a set of heated Recaros in leather with lumbar support would be drat near perfect. Had such a thing existed when I went to test drive it, Im sure it would be out in the garage right now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 04:11
|
|
|
First, I'd like to thank the PNW goons (and jamal) for encouraging me to shop my snow tires from AZ to OR. The first two trips up the mountain, passing all the poor suckers on the side of the road chaining up, breezing up an icy road at the speed limit, have made me positively smug in my choice to switch to snow tires for the winter. I've watched enough WRC to know that tire choice is everything in Monte Carlo, but now I really *get* it. Second, about my clutch. The driveway where I live is steeply inclined, but I also have to approach it slowly to avoid scraping the tailpipes on the way up ('05 LGT Wagon). This means that literally every time I pull in I have to burn the living gently caress out of the clutch to get up the hill (to the point that I'm smelling the burnt asparagus smell of hot clutch 2-3 times a week). I'm strongly considering replacing the clutch soon, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I've read that the LGTs have some issue with their throwout bearing but I'm not sure it applies to an otherwise-stock, never-launched Responsible Adult Car. Any advice would be appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 06:19
|
|
|
hi guys, I live in Australia and I see a lot of reference to stage 1//stage 2 yet I don't actually know what these involve, could anyone please shed some light? Also there's a lot of reference to access port and COB but in Australia people seem to flash the ECU with brands like "ecutek". I haven't read any cars for sale that have COB tunes. The reason I'm asking all of this is because I'm looking into buying an 06/07 STI. I realize they are much the same other than the horrible ECU tune of the stock 07. What would be a good re-tune to get for the 07 to fix said issue? And is it as bad as people say, should I stear clear?
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 09:20
|
|
|
Scro posted:hi guys, a) Join one of the local WRX clubs, they are almost always a wealth of info and contacts. (https://www.wrx.org.au for the NSW one) b) Forget about stage one or two or stupid crap like that. Just settle for what mods you want and act appropriately. c) The tune is not that bad. We also have access to 98 RON which many in the USA dont. d) ECUTEK is the MRT variant of the Cobb re-flash and if the truth be told - ECUTEK and Cobb are basically the same, I understand MRT and Cobb cross licence products, much like a lot of Subaru aftermarket suspension bits are actually Whiteline in disguise. So yes, Instead of Cobb, it's ECUTek in Australia. e) If you are in Canberra - Mick Harding is THE Man.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 11:07
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Second, about my clutch. The driveway where I live is steeply inclined, but I also have to approach it slowly to avoid scraping the tailpipes on the way up ('05 LGT Wagon). This means that literally every time I pull in I have to burn the living gently caress out of the clutch to get up the hill (to the point that I'm smelling the burnt asparagus smell of hot clutch 2-3 times a week). I'm strongly considering replacing the clutch soon, is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I've read that the LGTs have some issue with their throwout bearing but I'm not sure it applies to an otherwise-stock, never-launched Responsible Adult Car. Any advice would be appreciated! Why would you want to replace your clutch before it's worn enough to be slipping? The new clutch'll wear just the same.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 14:48
|
|
|
Franco Caution posted:
Buy the STI, if only for the resale value. Look an an '04 WRX and an '04 STi... one commands 8-10k and another 15-18.... and the owner got to drive a more fun car while they owned it!
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2010 20:11
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:a) Join one of the local WRX clubs, they are almost always a wealth of info and contacts. (https://www.wrx.org.au for the NSW one) So if I got an 07 that had a NEW ecu would that have fixed the problem with the 07 old tune or is there something in the actual motor build?
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 00:19
|
|
|
I did a brake bleed and also took care of my tire pressures before I went back home. Having the right tire pressures really does make a big difference about how the car shifts. I meant to take care of the clutch bleed as well but couldn't figure out how to get at the clutch slave effectively without removing the top-mount intercooler. If that's the case, I'll wait until it warms up again to take care of that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2010 07:46
|
|
|
Splinter posted:I've driven 2 '05 GTs so far and on both the shifter was occasionally reluctant to move into gear, and shifting in general took more work than other cars I've driven. Shifting is much smoother on the '00 LGT, '03 Legacy and '05 Outback I've driven recently. Is this normal? If it is, is it something that can be improved with relatively cheap upgrades? I've seen a lot of people recommend Subaru Extra-S gear oil, but I'm not sure if that helps with this issue or not. Difficultly getting into first and reverse are par for the course. Difficult getting into other gears isn't normal unless it is extremely cold outside (think January, Minnesota). Note however, that the LGT really needs the clutch pedal almost all the way down to the floor. Extra-S and bushings can do a hell of a lot for feel and smoothness, but if it just won't go into gear, unless it is really cold, something else is going on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2010 08:36
|
|
|
Sometimes in the mornings my '10 WRX will not go into reverse for all its worth. Even after I do that trick where you put it in 1st first, it doesn't want to do it. I really wish it came with the 6-speed. drat you, Subaru! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2010 21:37
|
|
|
syphon posted:Sometimes in the mornings my '10 WRX will not go into reverse for all its worth. Even after I do that trick where you put it in 1st first, it doesn't want to do it. My B4 does the same thing some times, I pump the clutch and rev it a little, appears to work - unsure if it's actually helping or not though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2010 23:39
|
|
|
Just putting it into first doesn't do enough. You have to put it in first and let the clutch out a little so the car starts to creep forward then put it in reverse.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 00:34
|
|
|
ChunksNensja posted:Just putting it into first doesn't do enough. You have to put it in first and let the clutch out a little so the car starts to creep forward then put it in reverse. 2nding this. Sometimes just popping it in first works but usually I just have to barely roll the wheels to get it into reverse.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 00:44
|
|
|
I'm looking to pair some lightweight wheels up with the suspension upgrades to my WRX and use the stock boat anchor wheels for winter. Do the Volk TE-37s seem like a good idea? Rota seems like the most popular brand in the community, but they don't appear to be any cheaper than Volk, unless I'm missing something. Here's the comparison: Stock 2011 WRX wheel: Cast, 17x8", 22lbs (45bs with inflated tire) Rota Grid: Cast, 17x8", 19lbs, ~$700 Volk TE-37: Forged, 17x8, 16.7lbs, ~$700 Volk CE28N: Forged, 17x8, 14.3lbs, ~$750 blargle fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Nov 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 04:34
|
|
|
blargle posted:I'm looking to pair some lightweight wheels up with the suspension upgrades to my WRX and use the stock boat anchor wheels for winter. Do the Volk TE-37s seem like a good idea? Rota seems like the most popular brand in the community, but they don't appear to be any cheaper than Volk, unless I'm missing something. Here's the comparison: TE-37s are that cheap? Unless that price is per wheel. But than, I didn't think rotas cost that much either. c355n4 fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Nov 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 04:38
|
|
|
Those prices are for the whole set of rotas, and individual volks
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 04:52
|
|
|
Well then, that makes more sense.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 04:59
|
|
|
blargle posted:Well then, that makes more sense. Bet it makes your choice a lot easier.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 05:07
|
|
|
You can get a set of 17x8 enkei rpf1s for about 1100, I think they're under 16lb each
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 05:10
|
|
|
I've been considering the Enkei RPF1 for my '10 WRX. They're 17.8lbs each, and Tirerack.com has them for $238 a wheel ($952 total). Of course, the car would look much better on 18"s, which will run you $1,140 total. Interestingly enough, the 17" and 18" both weight the same, according to tirerack.
syphon fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Nov 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 05:25
|
|
|
syphon posted:Sometimes in the mornings my '10 WRX will not go into reverse for all its worth. Even after I do that trick where you put it in 1st first, it doesn't want to do it. I dont know why you think getting the six speed would make any difference here, my STI can be a bit moody about reverse too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 11:04
|
|
|
I never thought I would be "that guy" and bitch about driver aids, but I've had my '11 for a month and I still can't quite get a hang of the hill assist function. I live in Pittsburgh and have driven stick for the past 9 years. If you haven't mastered hills by week 2, you are in trouble. They simply aren't a problem for me and haven't been for a long time, I can't even recall having to use the e-brake trick at all. So, the hill assist function is just causing me to stall the car on steep hills. On mild inclines it's fine and unobtrusive. On steeper hills, I still haven't found the point on the clutch where the brakes release and I'm almost always not giving it enough gas by that point and the car bogs and stalls. There's just no feel there, it's an on/off switch. Hopefully I'll get better at it with time, but I feel like I'm learning how to drive stick on hills all over again rather than helping me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 17:28
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:I never thought I would be "that guy" and bitch about driver aids, but I've had my '11 for a month and I still can't quite get a hang of the hill assist function. Your 02 doesn't have it? Honestly don't mind the feature but this is the first stick car I've daily driven since HS.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 17:45
|
|
|
Tremblay posted:2nding this. Sometimes just popping it in first works but usually I just have to barely roll the wheels to get it into reverse. This is pretty typical of any manual transmission in my experience.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 18:07
|
|
|
Tremblay posted:Your 02 doesn't have it? Honestly don't mind the feature but this is the first stick car I've daily driven since HS. Nope, that's something they added in '08, none of the earlier WRXs had it. Basically, it's a function of VDC and that wasn't added to the WRX until the 2008 model year. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Nov 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 18:17
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:I dont know why you think getting the six speed would make any difference here, my STI can be a bit moody about reverse too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:15
|
|
|
syphon posted:I've ready several quotes (admittedly on NASIOC, so who knows their credibility) from people comparing the WRX and STI and saying the 6-speed is way way better, citing this specific issue as an example. Well the 6 speed is way way better for other reasons, mostly related to power handling and the ability to withstand a retarded amount of abuse. This has lead a lot of people to think that the 5-speed is made from toothpicks, wood glue, and glass. Which just isn't true, it is less robust than the 6 speed, but will last just as long if you don't abuse it. That said I really want to do a 6k clutch drop start just to know what it feels like. Maybe I should go test drive something...
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:30
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:I never thought I would be "that guy" and bitch about driver aids, but I've had my '11 for a month and I still can't quite get a hang of the hill assist function. On the older Subarus, the brake would be released as soon as you released the clutch. If you held your foot on the clutch forever, it would hold the brake forever... but more importantly, the brake would let go as soon as you lifted off the clutch. On my WRX, it holds the brake for a few seconds (like, 3 seconds? I've never counted it). I think it's SUPPOSED to let go of the brake when you let go of the clutch, but 1 time out of every 20 or so, it doesn't let go of the brake right away, so it holds the brake down for a second while you try to launch (and then when it DOES let go, your car lurches forward). I guess i'm heavier on the gas than bull3964 is, because I've never stalled my car because of it. Still, it's an annoying issue!
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:49
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Well the 6 speed is way way better for other reasons, mostly related to power handling and the ability to withstand a retarded amount of abuse. This has lead a lot of people to think that the 5-speed is made from toothpicks, wood glue, and glass. Which just isn't true, it is less robust than the 6 speed, but will last just as long if you don't abuse it. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:53
|
|
|
syphon posted:I've written this same rant before. Mechanically speaking, I don't know how it differs on my '10 WRX compared to my old '85 GL, but I prefer how it behaved on my GL. The older systems were all mechanical in nature. The new systems use VDC to electronically hold the brakes.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:55
|
|
|
Scro posted:hi guys, The downside (or benefit depending on who you are) of Ecutek flashes is that they need to be done by a licensed ecutek tuner and will lock out your ecu. No one in the US really uses it anymore because there is openecu software which can be downloaded for free and done without a license, and does not lock the ecu. The Cobb Accessport is a little handheld device that stores different maps and allows for easy switching and monitoring of odb engine data, data logging, and some other stuff. It may not even work on australian cars. I don't think cobb and ecutek do much sharing of information or really have anything to do with each other. I know quite a few people at cobb so I guess I could ask.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 20:53
|
|
|
jamal posted:The downside (or benefit depending on who you are) of Ecutek flashes is that they need to be done by a licensed ecutek tuner and will lock out your ecu. No one in the US really uses it anymore because there is openecu software which can be downloaded for free and done without a license, and does not lock the ecu. The Cobb Accessport is a little handheld device that stores different maps and allows for easy switching and monitoring of odb engine data, data logging, and some other stuff. It may not even work on australian cars. Alternatively you could get a USDM ECU and call it a day.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 21:19
|
|
|
Hill hold in 08+ can be disabled in the STi only, not the standard WRX. Apparently you can take it back to the dealer to have them tone the system down if it bothers you (I've never noticed it)
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 22:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 17:26 |
|
|
syphon posted:Yeah, that's my experience too. That's most of why I wish Subaru had put the 6-spd in the WRX too (although I kinda understand why they don't). But one specific complaint I've heard about the 5-spd (specifically compared to the 6-spd) is that the shifting is super notchy and difficult to put in reverse. That's why i brought it up. Is the 6spd in the Legacy the STi transmission without DCCD? Or the WRX transmission with an extra gear?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 23:37
|
|
