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The never-ending valve cover saga continues. I put everything back together with the $50 gasket, and there still seems to be a leak in the same spot over the manifolds. This time at least it's slow enough that it isn't smoking on the exhaust. I guess the valve cover's warped. I'm getting very good at valve cover removal.
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Nov 30, 2010 21:47
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ManicJason posted:The never-ending valve cover saga continues. I put everything back together with the $50 gasket, and there still seems to be a leak in the same spot over the manifolds. This time at least it's slow enough that it isn't smoking on the exhaust. I guess the valve cover's warped. I'm getting very good at valve cover removal. It's easier to plug leaks on a 2 year old infant than a 4.0.
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Dec 1, 2010 00:27
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After selling my Comanche in the summer, I finally got up enough fund to pick up yet another Jeep. This time is a 1993 Cherokee, 2 door, 5 speed, 166,000 miles. Only problem is she seems a bit sick. Upon start up it blows a substantial amount of white smoke for a minute or two, then continues to idle at 2000rpms, eventually it drops off to idle at 950 rpms. Which is still high, I was under the impression the 4.0 idled at 500-600. Also today I started it, check engine light flashed on, and it began surging and missing very hard, when I turned it on and off again the check engine light was off and it went back to a solid 2000rpms. I seafoamed it last night hoping it would do something to smooth it out, but it didn't. The plugs and wires look pretty new, and the P.O. said it just had a recent tune up. A few of the vacuum lines have been replaced already, but is it safe to say a leak somewhere in the system has developed. I've always read about the IACV acting up on these too, could it be that too?
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Dec 1, 2010 04:24
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Ethox posted:white smoke Hows your coolant level? White smoke can be coolant.
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Dec 1, 2010 05:11
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Coolant level is fine. The radiator was recently replaced along with the upper and lower hoses. There is a small leak coming from the upper radiator hose, I haven't really looked at it to much, but it I think it just needs to be tightened. Edit- I'll check it again tomorrow, seeing as I have only driven in 60 miles so far. What would cause coolant to burn though?
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Dec 1, 2010 05:21
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I dunno how it does it but my 4.0 with 155k miles doesn't burn any oil, even after 5k miles on the oil. My LS2 is a drat pig and goes through almost 1.5 quarts in the same mileage.
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Dec 1, 2010 05:25
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Got bored today and went wheeling, shot some video and was still bored when I came home, so here's some stuff. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIOtRzJ3pfw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GP1WTPEvaxU
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Dec 4, 2010 04:07
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incredibull posted:Got bored today and went wheeling, shot some video and was still bored when I came home, so here's some stuff. Breaking the solo wheeling rule is awesome. Makes everything all that much more exciting, even when you do indeed get stuck and have to come up with some way to get out, not having a winch nor lockers 
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Dec 4, 2010 10:09
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I used to be really bad about it. I went out one time in my Bronco II that I had just finished putting a snorkel on, forgot to connect the boot on the lowest point on the snorkel ducting, and proceeded to go right into the deepest water hole and hydrolocked instantly. I was able to pull out the spark plugs and dry out to get going again, but it took nearly an hour of wading around in nasty rear end waist deep water to do it. I really miss having a snorkel. I think I'd eventually like to do the Hummer snorkel mod: 
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Dec 4, 2010 18:34
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incredibull posted:I really miss having a snorkel. I think I'd eventually like to do the Hummer snorkel mod:
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Dec 4, 2010 19:20
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Honestly I just love the look, and I generally don't make waves over the hood either, nor do I put the windshield down. I'm more worried about stopping or slowing down in deep water and having the under-hood intake get swamped.
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Dec 4, 2010 19:29
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OME 2" in the LJ. Bit bouncy now but it says allow a month to settle, more like 3"+ now. Big bumps are hardly noticeable. This IS the Cadillac Of Lifts. 33's later this week.
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Dec 7, 2010 03:17
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I'm seriously considering trading in my 2004 TJ for a low-mileage 2001 XJ. It's been on my mind for a long time now. Any of you guys that have done this, have you really regretted it? I love the TJ but I'm just generally sick of the lack of interior space and comfort since I spend a lot of time driving for work, often long distances. I have a lot of reasons to trade but mostly I want to be down to one vehicle for practicality's sake and I think the XJ really fits the bill. incredibull fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Dec 7, 2010 |
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Dec 7, 2010 04:32
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incredibull posted:I'm seriously considering trading in my 2004 TJ for a low-mileage 2001 XJ. It's been on my mind for a long time now. Any of you guys that have done this, have you really regretted it? My XJ is the best and worst car I have ever owned. You'll never regret getting one. Until you do. But don't worry, it'll go away in a day or so!
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Dec 7, 2010 04:36
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If you don't go crazy with lifts and huge tires an XJ will be a nice daily driver. Don't expect to get good fuel economy but you probably already know that from your TJ. My only major annoyance is where to keep the spare tire if you go for 31"+ tires. There are various location (inside on the floor, in the spare holder but deflated, on the roof, on an expensive rear bumper holder, etc.) but they all have trade-offs.
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Dec 7, 2010 05:04
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After having a SWB Jeep and moving on to an XJ, it really made me realize how impractical the former was. Sure, it was great for trails and cruising in the summer but that's about it. I hated it for daily driving or taking ski trips. The only upside was never having people ask me to help them move. I love having four doors plus cargo space for passengers, gear and the dog year-round while still having some creature comforts and the ability to sleep outstretched comfortably if need be. And SelecTrac is awesome in the snow and ice. I've probably mentioned it a dozen times in this tread, but keep in mind with 00-01 XJ's: low pinion front D30 (if that's a factor for you) and #0331 head castings which may or may not crack. But don't be afraid to jump on one if it's a good deal and low miles/clean to boot. edit:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32qvC-CE6Q8 Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 7, 2010 |
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Dec 7, 2010 05:11
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I'm aware of the head cracking issues and I already have a free HP D30 if I want it (but with the disconnect). But yeah, the TJ has been absolutely awful for long trips, and honestly even driving around town is getting hard on me physically - my lower back aches from getting knocked around by the short wheelbase. I love the Wrangler in the summer, but I don't think it's enough. I miss having a comfortable, quiet cabin, lots of room, and air conditioning. I can't fit any of my stuff in the Wrangler for camping trips, hunting, and even a trip to IKEA is out of the picture. It got bad enough that I started driving my old '91 Explorer to work most days and on long trips most of this year, but she's worn out and ready for greener pastures. I've been driving manual transmission 4x4 trucks since I got my license and I'm sort of tired of it. I'd like to have a reliable automatic now to tow my boat and cargo trailer. I'm getting married this summer and although my fiance can drive the Wrangler alright, I don't want to replace a clutch a year. We want to go on a long road trip for the honeymoon. Forget about that in the TJ, and I'm not renting a car. Stock is unacceptable but I don't want more than 2-4" lift and 30s. I've been able to go anywhere I want with that combo on my Wrangler, and the XJ will have more ground clearance with the same setup. Rhyno posted:My XJ is the best and worst car I have ever owned. You'll never regret getting one. Until you do. But don't worry, it'll go away in a day or so! Please do go on... I don't mind a few gotchas here and there, really. I'd be bored without them. God this turned into a long post. incredibull fucked around with this message at 05:45 on Dec 7, 2010 |
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Dec 7, 2010 05:34
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Imagine every non-critical part on a vehicle that can cause you a headache that makes you want to break something. At least ten of those will break in a given year.
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Dec 7, 2010 11:42
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Has anyone here had to replace an oil pressure switch on a 4.0L? All of a sudden today on my way home from work I went from having perfectly normal readings to having a 0-5 reading at idle and about 10-20 while accelerating. It scared the poo poo out of me, I pulled right off the road and checked my oil. Thankfully it was fine and the Jeep was running fine. I just finished replacing the OP switch and my readings are fine again. Fifty loving dollars for that little half metal, half plastic switch. It probably cost about $2 to manufacture. Basically what I am getting at is: is there anything I need to do at this point beyond replacing that switch or am I finished since my readings are fine now? Is it normal for them to just fail like that or is it likely due to a larger problem?
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Dec 7, 2010 17:04
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incredibull posted:I'm seriously considering trading in my 2004 TJ for a low-mileage 2001 XJ. It's been on my mind for a long time now. Any of you guys that have done this, have you really regretted it? With all the extra cargo space you can carry around a full set of tools. If your future XJ is anything like mine you will need them on a weekly basis. 
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Dec 7, 2010 17:09
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Actually that's one of my criteria since I carried a bigass toolbox full of poo poo at all times in my Explorer, but it never fit in the TJ. I feel naked without tools.
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Dec 7, 2010 20:14
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ornery owl posted:Has anyone here had to replace an oil pressure switch on a 4.0L? Thank god the 4.0 is basically oil-optional.
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Dec 7, 2010 23:27
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Those sending units get changed all the times on 4.0l's thanks to the placement of the oil filter. Its VERY easy to bust the sensor when removing the filter. Its not a big issue, as long as the readings are back to normal.
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Dec 8, 2010 07:21
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Veeb0rg posted:Those sending units get changed all the times on 4.0l's thanks to the placement of the oil filter. Its VERY easy to bust the sensor when removing the filter. Its not a big issue, as long as the readings are back to normal. It probably didn't help that I had my distributor cap sort of anchored down on one side using zip-ties to the sending unit. The hole on the distributor that the cap screws in to chipped off mysteriously. At the time this seemed like a good temporary fix, but I've been lazy about it and it seems to have become a more permanent fix. Maybe I will move it to the top of my to-do list.
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Dec 8, 2010 13:52
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I replaced my TPS and my Cherokee is running as good as ever. I want to dump some money into it, and make it into an offroading beast. What do you guys recommend as far as lifts go? I was thinking the Rough Country 4.5 inch lift, but I would like to hear of other opinions. Anything else I should look into getting for it, to make it trail ready? Edit- I'm going to elaborate a little more. I'm not sure how much money I should dump into this thing, I got it for 1600 dollars, it will be easy to double that with only a few mods. I was looking at roof racks, surco seems the way to go, but has anyone made one out of wood cheaply? I can splurge a little bit on a lift, but I'm not sure if its worth the money. Ethox fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 06:36
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Ethox posted:I replaced my TPS and my Cherokee is running as good as ever. I want to dump some money into it, and make it into an offroading beast. Some people I know hate on Rough Country stuff but I have had nothing but good luck with the little stuff I bought from them. My setup currently is 3.5" Rustys lift, 2" Rocky Road Shackles/Spacers, Rough Country Shocks (for 6" lift,) Rustys Steering Box Brace  Edit: I cant spell.
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Dec 11, 2010 06:55
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I spent the day armpit deep in the rear brakes of my jeep, 180k makes for a hell of a greasy mess but its done and I can finally drive my heep again.
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Dec 11, 2010 08:54
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Ethox posted:I replaced my TPS and my Cherokee is running as good as ever. I want to dump some money into it, and make it into an offroading beast. I like Rough country a lot. They seem to be the only Lift company that isn't out to lunch on their prices. If you're going to do the 4.5" lift, I recommend also getting the bar-pin eliminators for the rear upper shock mounts. This is a must, as the bar-pins break all the time, especially during spirited driving on forest service roads. Some extras that I would do if I was building another cherokee: http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4x.html Get the X series kit. Not the base one. http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_control_arm_drop.html Control arm drop kit. This "fixes" your control arm angles and improves the ride quality greatly. It also gives you way more articulation. http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_barpin-eliminator.html Bar pin eliminators Also, I suggest adding the braided brake lines, instead of the extension brackets. The nice thing about all that stuff is that you can get the X-series kit, and then add on the other parts afterward.
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Dec 11, 2010 19:27
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Picture of lift installed with 285 75r16s. Front and rear adjustable trackbars were loving cunts. Still have front disconnects and rear swarbar links to install.(OEMs still in rear) 
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Dec 13, 2010 20:37
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I did a bunch of work on my 1997 Cherokee 4.0L 4x4 auto this weekend (new shocks, new steering damper, new throttle position sensor, replaced broken glove box) and now the HVAC door switch doesn't work. Every setting blows air through the defrost vents. Any ideas on what to look for?
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Dec 13, 2010 20:52
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PBCrunch posted:I did a bunch of work on my 1997 Cherokee 4.0L 4x4 auto this weekend (new shocks, new steering damper, new throttle position sensor, replaced broken glove box) and now the HVAC door switch doesn't work. Every setting blows air through the defrost vents. Any ideas on what to look for? It's vacuum operated I am pretty sure. Either the switch, or at the door the vacuum line has been unplugged or is leaking/broken. Check your vacuum lines under there.
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Dec 13, 2010 21:04
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Picture of lift installed with 285 75r16s. It looks great dude! Take that thing off road and lets see some more photos! I love the look of the bed, whatever that poo poo is called.
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Dec 13, 2010 23:56
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jonathan posted:It's vacuum operated I am pretty sure. Either the switch, or at the door the vacuum line has been unplugged or is leaking/broken. Check your vacuum lines under there. I know the pre96 are vacuum operated, but i thought they switched to an electrical actuator in 97.
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Dec 14, 2010 04:43
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PBCrunch posted:I did a bunch of work on my 1997 Cherokee 4.0L 4x4 auto this weekend (new shocks, new steering damper, new throttle position sensor, replaced broken glove box) and now the HVAC door switch doesn't work. Every setting blows air through the defrost vents. Any ideas on what to look for? Do a search for "xj jeep blend door fix" and you will find tons of info on that. I think the 97 has an electric blend door. stik fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Dec 14, 2010 |
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Dec 14, 2010 05:18
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stik posted:Do a search for "xj jeep blend door fix" and you will find tons of info on that. I think the 97 has an electric blend door. Actually, that's not the symptom of a broken blend door. That sounds more like a broken defrost mode door, which is also a common problem in Cherokees. For safety's sake, when they fail, they fail in a state which only allows air to go through the defrost vents. The good news is that it could also be a simple matter of a broken vacuum line, and not the door itself. Since he was poking around in there, I'd bet that he just knocked a vacuum line loose. Further good news is that if that's not the case, there are third party defrost door fix kits, although I haven't done that one. Let me do a little poking around. EDIT: Hmm. I don't see any mode doors for the Cherokees. That's probably a good thing, as it can be a pain to change. So, let's go back to the vacuum. Check all the vacuum lines and make sure there are no leaks or anything. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Dec 14, 2010 |
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Dec 14, 2010 16:20
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I want to add that the cruise control has been flaky the last couple days. Sometimes it will engage sometimes not. This also points to vac leak.
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Dec 14, 2010 16:38
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How many splines is my axle on my 90 cherokee with a dana 35? Any easy way to tell?
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Dec 14, 2010 20:57
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Atticus_1354 posted:How many splines is my axle on my 90 cherokee with a dana 35? Any easy way to tell? I'm not sure, but you should find out if they're reticulated.
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Dec 15, 2010 02:00
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Braincloud posted:I'm not sure, but you should find out if they're reticulated. I laughed way harder at this than i probably should have. 
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Dec 15, 2010 02:04
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Braincloud posted:I'm not sure, but you should find out if they're reticulated. Pull an axle shaft and count. *Magic 8ball says 27 spline*
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Dec 15, 2010 04:39
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