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havelock posted:I forget where I read it, but if you pull the string taught, and then put your pointer finger at the 12th fret perpendicular to the fretboard and pull the string up even to the base of your hand with your middle finger then that gives you just the right amount of slack. I have no idea what this means, but yeah the problem was that I strung it wrong and then tried to redo it and it just fell apart I threw the old one back on just to keep the tension on it, and got three packs of new strings, and I'm gonna have someone show me how to do it in a few hours. BENGHAZI 2 fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Nov 27, 2010 |
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Nov 27, 2010 16:43
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It means you pull the string through until it's taut, then pull it up off the fretboard at the 12th fret until you get about an index finger's length worth of clearance. You're not stretching it, just letting out some slack. Then you let that slack wind around the tuning peg while you tune up, don't pull it through to get it tighter quicker I just wing it personally but that sounds about the same amount of slack I go for
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Nov 27, 2010 19:04
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I'll try it next time As is, I drive within five minutes of Guitar Center at least twice every other week, and it's fifteen minutes from my house, so I just took it and a pack of strings over and handed it over to the repair dude. It'll even be a freebie, because I had the strings and was just to inept to use them myself.
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Nov 27, 2010 20:03
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I usually just pull the strings through the peg, clip the string 3" past it, then push the 3" back so that only 1/2" is now sticking out, bend it 90 degrees. Then wind. Seems pretty easy.
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Nov 27, 2010 21:06
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Philthy posted:I usually just pull the strings through the peg, clip the string 3" past it, then push the 3" back so that only 1/2" is now sticking out, bend it 90 degrees. Then wind. Seems pretty easy. Oooh, this seems much easier than the "index finger at the 12th fret" bit. Gonna try this next time. I have extra strings now, so I can gently caress around till I get it right
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Nov 28, 2010 00:45
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Dickeye posted:Oooh, this seems much easier than the "index finger at the 12th fret" bit. Gonna try this next time. I have extra strings now, so I can gently caress around till I get it right Yeah, strings are so (relatively) cheap anyone can just get it right by trial and error. I've been buying different brands lately and I'm completely amazed how different they all feel and sound. The Elixirs I just put on have a nice pop sound to them compared to the Slinkys I had on before. It's like walking into a candy store when I look at all the strings available. Just have to check the intonation which usually doesn't need to be adjusted too much from my experiences. Same goes for picks. A Jazz III I have sounds way more vibrant than the Dunlops 1mm I have. Philthy fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Nov 28, 2010 |
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Nov 28, 2010 02:27
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I'm not really "new" to guitar (just sucky) but I'm looking for a good midrange guitar that preferably is: a) fixed bridge (already have a tremolo guitar) b) body shaped similar to the Ibanez S-series c) not a POS...that's about it. Thus far I have only found one: Washburn XM PRO2F:  I know there are other factors such as fret count, pickups, bridge style, neck shape, etc. If Ibanez made a fixed bridge S570 (or thereabouts) I'd probably already own it. Right now I'm literally just trying to find all my choices. Have I found my only option? Ideas? Does Rondo do requests?
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Nov 30, 2010 02:18
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ChiliMac posted:Does Rondo do requests? Yes, but it's not worth the money.
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Nov 30, 2010 02:20
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I just read this entire thread and I've got a question that I feel some of you guys could answer. I'm not really new to guitar, I've played an acoustic for a couple of years now, but I'm thinking of getting an electric guitar. I've set my heart on a nice Ibanez AS73B but I'm having a really difficult time figuring out a good amp to pair it with. My budget for the amp is $200. I've gone to my local music shop to try out some of the amps with the guitar, but to be honest, it's overwhelming. I took a look at the Roland MicroCube but I feel it's a little small for me; I'd like something a little more substantial. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Another question that I have is that I'm planning on buying the guitar online. How necessary is setting up a new guitar (and what does it entail)? Sorry for the dumb questions, but I hope you guys can help. Thanks!
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Nov 30, 2010 05:13
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ChiliMac posted:I'm not really "new" to guitar (just sucky) but I'm looking for a good midrange guitar that preferably is: a) fixed bridge (already have a tremolo guitar) b) body shaped similar to the Ibanez S-series c) not a POS...that's about it. Thus far I have only found one: There's a new shop in Dublin that has a load of Cort guitars. I've played a few and was pleasantly surprised. Something like this do you? http://www.cortguitars.com/_webapp_2726494/KX101
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Nov 30, 2010 13:48
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unpurposed posted:I just read this entire thread and I've got a question that I feel some of you guys could answer. I started with a Vox DA-5, which is the same idea as the microcube. I think it has a bigger speaker, though. It's great to start with and portable. If you want something with a bit more punch, the Vox VT-15 is in your price range and has similar effects and all that. If you want to give up the effects, but move to a tube amp instead of solid state, you can get a Vox AC4TV for that price if you look. It usually lists at $249, but I found mind through amazon for $180. It's a nice 4 watt tube amp with a built in switch to knock it down to 1 watt or 1/4 watt so you can play it inside and get it to overdrive without pissing off the neighbors. I didn't really intend for this to be a vox ad, so maybe someone else can chime in with other non-vox recommendations. I guess the first question should have been what type of music you play, as voxs are known more for cleans and warm overdrive rather than metal tones. A setup involves setting the action, tuning, setting the intonation, etc.
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Nov 30, 2010 14:57
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havelock posted:
Thanks for the suggestions. I thought I had put my preferences in the past post but looking back I guess I forgot. I usually tend to play lots of rock, but since I've always used an acoustic, this has been mostly limited to softer songs. I'm really interested in playing some harder rock, maybe some metal. I like the sound of bands like Chevelle, for instance, so I'd try to play somewhere along that kind of sound.
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Nov 30, 2010 18:23
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After getting my AC4 I've really gotta say that tube distortion sounds 100x better than solid state distortion on its own, especially when combined with a slight overdrive like a Tube Screamer or a booster.
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Nov 30, 2010 18:32
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I bought a nice acoustic guitar last year, and I've been having a lot of fun learning and playing it. But now for some reason my first 2 frets on the e and A strings are buzzing really bad now. It started with just the first fret on the e, but now its 4 frets and is really annoying. Can I fix this myself or do I just take it to a guitar shop? Googled the heck out of this, but all I really got out of that is I can raise my action with an allen key. I bought this guitar because it had such close action and I really don't want to do that. Would new strings help maybe?
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Nov 30, 2010 19:34
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Rodney Chops posted:I bought a nice acoustic guitar last year, and I've been having a lot of fun learning and playing it. But now for some reason my first 2 frets on the e and A strings are buzzing really bad now. It started with just the first fret on the e, but now its 4 frets and is really annoying. Can I fix this myself or do I just take it to a guitar shop? Googled the heck out of this, but all I really got out of that is I can raise my action with an allen key. I bought this guitar because it had such close action and I really don't want to do that. Would new strings help maybe? Try replacing the strings first. If that doesn't work, you may need to mess with the neck of the guitar (and probably get it properly set up), which most people would recommend you take to a shop to do.
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Nov 30, 2010 19:51
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unpurposed posted:My budget for the amp is $200. I've gone to my local music shop to try out some of the amps with the guitar, but to be honest, it's overwhelming. I took a look at the Roland MicroCube but I feel it's a little small for me; I'd like something a little more substantial. For $200, most major amp makers all have a 20-30 watt solid state version loaded with effects available right around there. I don't think you can really go wrong with any of them. I looked at everything from Vox, Peavey, Line6, Fender, etc. They all sounded fine to me. Looked up all the reviews and ended up with the Peavey Vypyr 30 mostly because the amp selection sat on the more hard rock to metal side than all the others.
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Dec 1, 2010 01:46
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ChiliMac posted:I'm not really "new" to guitar (just sucky) but I'm looking for a good midrange guitar that preferably is: a) fixed bridge (already have a tremolo guitar) b) body shaped similar to the Ibanez S-series c) not a POS...that's about it. Thus far I have only found one: Incidentally, Ibanez pretty much used to do exactly this (the SZ series, later the SZR series with somewhat different necks etc). S-ish body style, except much less contoured around the back, set neck, wider neck, 25.0" scale. I love my SZ-320 more than is reasonable (it's the earlier model, made in 2003, with the mystery generic ibanez pickups, instead of the duncan designed, and I probably wouldn't change them even if price wasn't an issue). They have the advantage of being rather cheap. I do deeply hate the weird flame inlays on the higher end models though. I like the neck feel: 25.0" with 10s is about the perfect string tension for me, and it's reasonably substantial feeling, and the radius is rather flat. It sounds good acoustically, and the pickups really work for me. It's wired so that the middle position is the outer coil of each pickup in series, and it's a really great clear sound. The neck does about as good a jazz sound as I'd expect from a solidbody, and the bridge is pretty agressive for playing with gain. This general style of guitar is made by a number of manufacturers. Schecter's C1 series and Corts M series come to mind. These are all pretty nice guitars. cpach fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Dec 1, 2010 |
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Dec 1, 2010 04:47
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unpurposed posted:I just read this entire thread and I've got a question that I feel some of you guys could answer. Really can't go past the Peavey Vyper. It's got a large range of clean and distortion sounds. ChiliMac - If you want a fixed bridge have you considered having your floating tremolo blocked? Other than that I'd recomend you have a look at the LTD M50 (I think that's it) How much would people here pay to have their electric set up properly? I know a professional luthier who wants to charge $140 (AUD) but that seems steep. Cold Day fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Dec 1, 2010 |
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Dec 1, 2010 08:59
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Cold Day posted:Really can't go past the Peavey Vyper. It's got a large range of clean and distortion sounds. I paid $50 CAD for my set-up
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Dec 1, 2010 19:26
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Cold Day posted:Really can't go past the Peavey Vyper. It's got a large range of clean and distortion sounds. I paid $US 50, plus the cost of a pack of strings (part of setup was restringing) For that they restrung it (obviously), fixed the warping in my neck, and did a touch-up on my electronics, mainly my output jack (it was all hosed up and shorted out)
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Dec 1, 2010 19:50
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Cold Day posted:
I considered doing that with a Ibanez (was looking for an upgrade as well as the fixed bridge) but figured there had to be something out there that already met my needs. Seems like the washburn is the ticket the only unfortunate thing is their availability--I think I'd need to buy it without even playing it first. I'm not that concerned considering reviews I've read the and the relative cheapness of the guitar (list @ ~600, sell for 350), not like I'm dropping 3k on a gibson. Separate benefit would be restringing a string-thru would be way less of a pain in the rear end as the Ibanez bridge. Thanks for all your help guys, at the very least I learned that Kort makes a seemingly identical guitar.
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Dec 1, 2010 23:56
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Cold Day posted:Really can't go past the Peavey Vyper. It's got a large range of clean and distortion sounds. Seperate question: Peavey Vypyr Vox VT Line 6 Spider IV Fender Mustang I/II Battle!
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Dec 2, 2010 02:19
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ChiliMac posted:Seperate question: Oh god, this is the best question since these are the exact amps I'm fighting between.
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Dec 2, 2010 07:37
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ChiliMac posted:Thanks for all your help guys, at the very least I learned that Kort makes a seemingly identical guitar. I liked the Cort M series stuff a lot when I tried it. I almost got a M800 (the hollowbody one), but ended up with the SZ320. It's likely whatever the hell you get is made by Cort anyways regardless of label.
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Dec 2, 2010 09:38
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First time posting over here, so don't beat me, I did read the OP and started on the "civilian" link that was posted, and want to bash my head into a wall after trying to figure out intervals. I have been wanting to learn guitar for a really, really long time. I have started and stopped several times and finally just decided that I am going to do it this time. I have a couple books, but honestly nothing that I feel has a good method (they were cheapies). I know a few basic chords (EM, Em, Am, AM, Dm, G, F) and have been working on muscle memory, etc. However, I really need a point in the right direction. I don't have the money currently to goto an instructor, so books and self learning it must be for now. I do REALLY desire to study music theory, because my brain only works when I understand why/how something does what it does. Anyways, for the type of person I just described, is William Leavitts Modern Method for Guitar a good book to buy and stick with? I have two guitars, but have really only been playing on my acoustic (fender T Bucket 300, electric is a PRS Santana SE with peavy vyper amp) to get my fingers used to the workout. Anyways, please help. I love to learn, just trying to figure out intervals (why some have diminished, augmented, perfect, etc) is fascinating to me. Help! Edit : After reading some reviews on amazon of the book, and since I consider myself to be a total beginner, recommend a book that you like. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Dec 2, 2010 |
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Dec 2, 2010 14:48
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No idea about the books, but I can tell you a little about intervals. Basically it's the difference in pitch between two notes, and in western music we go up in increments called semitones (or half steps/half tones). On yr guitar going up a fret on the same string is going up a semitone, and that one-semitone interval is called a minor 2nd. Here's the main ones and how many semitones each interval is: 0 Unison (exactly the same note, no pitch difference) 1 minor 2nd (one semitone higher, i.e. one fret up) 2 major 2nd (two semitones higher, two frets up) 3 minor 3rd 4 major 3rd 5 perfect 4th 6 tritone / augmented 4th / diminished 5th 7 perfect 5th 8 minor 6th 9 major 6th 10 minor 7th 11 major 7th 12 octave (same note (like F and F) only higher in pitch - try playing an open string and then fretting at the 12th fret) As for the names it's just convention - the 4th and 5th are called 'perfect' because they're regarded as the most consonant and pleasing intervals, tritone literally means three (whole) tones (six semitones), augmented means added to (4th +1) and diminished means reduced (5th -1). As to which name you use, you don't really need to worry about it at first - but if you have a scale like the Lydian mode, which is a major scale without a perfect 4th and with the tritone, you can consider the 4th to have been changed and pushed up a semitone to become an augmented 4th, whereas the perfect 5th is still hanging out as-is. EDIT: I'm not even close to being knowledgeable about music theory so if that last bit is wrong someone shout at me
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Dec 2, 2010 18:04
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ChiliMac posted:I'm not really "new" to guitar (just sucky) but I'm looking for a good midrange guitar that preferably is: a) fixed bridge (already have a tremolo guitar) b) body shaped similar to the Ibanez S-series c) not a POS...that's about it. Thus far I have only found one: Pre-2010 (south korean-made) Schecter C-1 Classic. Period. gently caress the rest. I've never played any manufactured guitar that comes even close to a pre-2010 Schecter, and the C-1 Classic has the fixed bridge, contoured super strat shape, and real pickups, JB bridge + Jazz or 59 neck depending on the year it was made. They also look fantastic. Mm, blue/green/burst maple top + vine inlays... But seriously, you're not asking for much and there are a zillion guitars out there that are fixed bridge/strat shape, although I wouldn't discount Telecasters because even though they're ugly as sin, they sound freakin' superb. There's also the RGA32/42FM if you wanna stick with Ibanez, although they have garbage pickups too. Schecter is generally the best bet if you want real pickups in a midrange guitar. Duck and burger fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Dec 2, 2010 |
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Dec 2, 2010 18:26
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baka kaba posted:No idea about the books, but I can tell you a little about intervals. Basically it's the difference in pitch between two notes, and in western music we go up in increments called semitones (or half steps/half tones). On yr guitar going up a fret on the same string is going up a semitone, and that one-semitone interval is called a minor 2nd. Here's the main ones and how many semitones each interval is: Your interval that you showed above makes sense to me. The link in the OP that leads to ultimate guitar doesn't though, as some of them have augmented seconds amd minor thirds that are enharmonic (say in the note of C it would be D# is augmented second and Eb is the minor third, they are listed (in that guys interval) as separate/distinct notes when in fact they are not, from my understanding. Anyways, I did find a teacher I am going to give a try. $15 for a half hour lesson and teaches piano and guitar, but the big key for me is she teaches music theory. I know the price is very low, but giving her a try won't hurt. She has 20+ years, so hopefully she will be able to relate what I need to know. Anywhoo, I think it is a good start doing the basics on guitar but doing theory right along with it. I need to know why things are the way they are. It makes me happy. What do you all think about my choice of gear? The T Bucket 300 seems pretty nice, I like the styling and sound of the PRS. Total between the two guitars and amp is about $600. Edit : Re-reading the last bit you mentioned makes me think that the guy was just providing a list of every possible combination of interval for every possible scale/mode/etc. If that is the case, then I totally get it, if not, he screwed my head up bad. mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Dec 2, 2010 |
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Dec 2, 2010 18:50
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mAlfunkti0n posted:First time posting over here, so don't beat me, I did read the OP and started on the "civilian" link that was posted, and want to bash my head into a wall after trying to figure out intervals.
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Dec 2, 2010 19:39
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Edit : Re-reading the last bit you mentioned makes me think that the guy was just providing a list of every possible combination of interval for every possible scale/mode/etc. If that is the case, then I totally get it, if not, he screwed my head up bad. Yeah basically - it's like I was saying before about changing the perfect 4th in a scale, if you raise it by a semitone you'd call that note an augmented 4th, to make it clear which note of the scale it is and how it's been changed (so people don't assume you're diminishing your 5ths instead). In this case I think - and I'm kinda guessing here - that you'd have an augmented 2nd when your 3rd is a major 3rd, to make it clear that your scale's 2nd note is being raised and that it's not a minor 3rd (which would be enharmonic). When notes and intervals are enharmonic it means that they sound the same (they're the same pitch) but they're functionally different - I really don't know a lot more than that and music theory can get pretty complicated, but the good news is that you don't really need to worry about it at this stage. By the time you need to worry if something's an augmented 2nd you'll probably have enough understanding to find out more
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Dec 2, 2010 20:11
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Hey guys, was just wondering what everyone heres opinions of the Apple Garageband Guitar Lessons were? Only asking because I recently stumbled across a pretty drat nice sounding guitar at a second-hand music shop in Soho for only £95(http://www.westfieldguitar.co.uk/westfield/prod_details.asp?ID=465) and couldn't resist picking it up. I'm currently working my way through the Apple Lessons that come free on my laptop and they seem to be really informative, however i'm just wondering if i'm shooting myself in the foot by not getting a proper instructor to cover the basics with.
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Dec 2, 2010 23:28
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Duck and burger posted:Pre-2010 (south korean-made) Schecter C-1 Classic. Period. gently caress the rest. I've never played any manufactured guitar that comes even close to a pre-2010 Schecter, and the C-1 Classic has the fixed bridge, contoured super strat shape, and real pickups, JB bridge + Jazz or 59 neck depending on the year it was made. They also look fantastic. Mm, blue/green/burst maple top + vine inlays... But seriously, you're not asking for much and there are a zillion guitars out there that are fixed bridge/strat shape, although I wouldn't discount Telecasters because even though they're ugly as sin, they sound freakin' superb. That's not quite the same body shape (one is "Flat" at the base while one is asymmetric) but thanks anyhow. I pulled the trigger on the Washburn and will just hope it doesn't suck--it's really not that much money so trial and error isn't the worst option. Honestly this decision is almost as much cosmetic as it is technical--I like to use a car analogy: it's all well and good to only care about the technicalities but you don't want to drive a car you hate to look at. Unless there is something truly unfixable you can always address it with upgrades (e.g. pickups). So I'll try to remember to let everyone know if I hosed up. Next step is to go to Bestbuy (oddly the best instrument selection in town) and try out some new amps to replace my POS Crate...I'm leaning toward the Mustang II based on what I've read so far but I think they have a few of the other ones in that tech level I can try out.
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Dec 3, 2010 04:28
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I have a quick question about strings. I learned some classical guitar about eight years ago, took lessons for couple of years up until I went to university. I was never brilliant but I could pick out a tune and play some chords, enough to have some fun with it. During that period I also got an electric but I mostly stuck with my classical. I've been really lazy and not played either for about three years but I want to pick up my electric again. I have an Aria Pro II Fullerton which I bought second hand from my teacher who had far too many guitars and was getting rid of some. I don't know if it's any good but that's what I have. It looks like this (with great apologies for the blurry old picture that was taken on whatever terrible camera phone I had when I got this thing):  The strings on it are looking pretty bad, they are starting to rust slightly in places. What strings do I need to replace them? I know that there are different options, is there a beginner's guide to buying strings somewhere? I know that taking my guitar to a music shop is the best idea but I don't have one very near to me and I don't drive, so if possible I just want to buy some online. The amp I have is a cheap Fender 15R and never seemed that great, so might look at replacing that as well, but want to get the strings sorted first. Thanks!
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Dec 3, 2010 16:49
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Your standard strings are nickel roundwounds, there are other materials and such out there (have a look here) but you're probably best going with those at first. String sets come in different gauges which tells you how thick they are, heavier gauges are thicker which means more tension and a different tone, but you usually need to set your guitar up to use them - the standard gauge is 9's or 10's, if you wanted to take your guitar to the store they could probably tell you exactly what you have on already but it's no big deal. If you currently have 9's then 10's will feel a little harder to bend, that's about it. The gauge refers to the thickness of the high E string (9's = 0.009 inches thick) and that determines how thick the others are - you might see different sets of the same gauge called things like 'Heavy Bottom' which is a set with extra-thick lower strings and so on, just grab a standard set and you'll be golden. There are different brands like Slinkys, Rotosounds and so on - personally I like D'addarios, they have coloured ball ends that make it easy to tell which string is which, might be a good option for your first attempt. Otherwise just say 'I need some standard electric strings' and if they're not a total douche they'll give you something suitable Also there are expensive strings like Elixirs and D'addario EXPs, I wouldn't bother at this point!
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Dec 3, 2010 17:32
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Duck and burger posted:Pre-2010 (south korean-made) Schecter C-1 Classic. Period. gently caress the rest. I've never played any manufactured guitar that comes even close to a pre-2010 Schecter, and the C-1 Classic has the fixed bridge, contoured super strat shape, and real pickups, JB bridge + Jazz or 59 neck depending on the year it was made. They also look fantastic. Mm, blue/green/burst maple top + vine inlays... But seriously, you're not asking for much and there are a zillion guitars out there that are fixed bridge/strat shape, although I wouldn't discount Telecasters because even though they're ugly as sin, they sound freakin' superb. Yeah, Schecters are nice. I have a Schecter C-1 E/A which is semi-hollow with added piezo pickups, and it has a great sound, especially for jazzy or bluesy music. And it's beautiful through a distorted Blues Jr too.
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Dec 3, 2010 20:18
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ChiliMac posted:Seperate question: I have played on a Vox VT and can say they're pretty good. But you can get a cheap epiphone/fender tube amp for a similar price, so I don't know why you would get it. Especially the cheap Fenders; they are drat good low wattage tube amps.
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Dec 4, 2010 02:08
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So after a few months of dicking around with my Epiphone Standard Plus and a Vox amp (VT-20? I think) I've discovered a couple things: I need pedals. I'm definitely getting a Digitech Whammy WH-4 pedal for Christmas (hurray for musician father!) but I'm looking for something more in terms of distortion. My Vox amp does distortion pretty well, and it has some cool effects but there's no real middle ground on it between Super Clean/Clean with a slight electric sound and a very metal sounding overdrive. Basically, I'm looking for something that sounds like the guitar on Thickfreakness by The Black Keys - distinctly blues-like, but with a solid rock distortion. I know there's a ton of personal preference involved, but I'm curious if anybody knows what I'm talking about and has some insight. How the gently caress do I make noises like Jack White can? Jesus christ the guy turns the guitar into a noise machine just as well as Tom Morello, only I can understand how Morello can make some of the sounds through feedback, clever toggle switch usage etc. It just seems like Jack White stands there and doesn't do anything obvious but can make the guitar shriek and wail like he's taking a hammer to it. Please somebody enlighten me because it's a loving mystery to me.
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Dec 4, 2010 02:35
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TheGopher posted:How the gently caress do I make noises like Jack White can? Smash the guitar into the floor and pull all the strings, spill a beer on your amp.
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Dec 4, 2010 03:35
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If you've never spilled a beer on your amp, you're not rocking hard enough
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Dec 4, 2010 03:41
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TheGopher posted:Basically, I'm looking for something that sounds like the guitar on Thickfreakness by The Black Keys - distinctly blues-like, but with a solid rock distortion. I know there's a ton of personal preference involved, but I'm curious if anybody knows what I'm talking about and has some insight. Dan Auerbach uses a Maestro MFZ-1 fuzz box
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Dec 4, 2010 03:42
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