|
Splizwarf posted:Do 240s not have lumbar adjustment? The (easily overcome) problem swapping 740 seatcovers is the hole for that. My 240 has lumbar adjustment but maybe that's broke too because I can't see that it does anything. Now that I think about it, I don't think I have ever had heat from either side seat back - only from the bottom.
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2010 19:50
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 00:59 |
|
|
So today I tightened down my engine mounts and brackets, filled the transmission with fluid (and in the process managed to coat my head in it. oops), and a bunch of other niddly poiddly stuff here and there, but all together it was a lot of productivity that I hadn't had an opportunity to tend to due to business of holiday season at work. Still contemplating keeping the a/c or not... By far the most productive thing for today was the ability to say that at one point in my life I had to wash tranny fluid out of my hair. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2010 05:21
|
|
|
Hey all. Currently I have an E46 M3, but had a kid a few months ago and he's beginning to be a real hassle to swing in and out of the back, besides which my wife hates the car. I've always had a thing for Volvos, and have been eying up 04-07 V70Rs for the past little while. There's one for sale locally, and I drove it today (an '06). What should I be looking for on these cars? Done a bit of research, and there doesn't seem to be a whole hell of a lot to worry about. The only thing I noticed on the drive was the clutch - the pedal had a looooot of travel before it engaged. It felt like my mother in law's old Jetta TDI. The M3 is like an on/off switch in comparison. Is that normal in these cars, or is the clutch on the way out? There's also a fair amount of wear on the driver's side seat bolster, and the seats are that metallic blue leather, so I'm not sure how difficult that would be to repair. The biggest problem I have is that these cars are rare as hell in Canada, and I'm kinda sold after the drive. There was a flurry of about half a dozen over the summer, but we're down to a very, very few choices right now.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 02:24
|
|
|
I have a 98 V70R and I'm really liking it...the only thing I'd trade it for is a 04-06 V70R, so if you found one for a good price and it's in good shape, I'd say go for it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 02:56
|
|
|
Go read the R forum on swedespeed. There are a few chronic maintenance failures to watch out for on a P2 R, which is a vastly different beast than a gen 1 R. Major failure points are the spline collar between the transaxle and angle gear, and also the angle gear itself leaking the oil out. The other major failure point is the clutch slave cylinder, which is inside the bell housing and requires transmission removal to repair. After that, the only complaint is that a lot of the parts are exclusive to the R and expensive. For example, the shocks are around $500 apiece and must be replaced with factory shocks unless you want a permanent trouble code on the dash, because they have integrated accellerometers and position sensors. The active chassis is cool, but expensive to maintain. There should be enough parts cars out there that if you want to have the leather replaced with a used skin, you should be able to. From what I hear, if you have the money, they're a very rewarding car to own and drive. I want one but they're just outside my snack bracket. I settled for a T5.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2010 05:12
|
|
|
ch1mp posted:Which specific tires do you get in that size? All I see on tirerack in that size are a couple high performance type tires with tread patterns that wont do well in snow. They have a bit more selection in 195/55 and a few more in 195/60 though - do you think these taller sizes will be noticeably different to look at? I've usually had Pirellis in that size, but I've only ever used them as summer tires as well - had a set of the steelies with 175s on them for winter use. Generally it's going to be kind of not a great tire for the snow due to being relatively fat and flat, but you might have more tread choice luck here: http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Page.cfm I've bought tires from them in the past and it's been just as quick/reliable as Tire Rack (I live in CA though so YMMV). As for fitment look, 205 x .50 = 102.5mm of tire sidewall height 195 x .55 = 107.25mm of tire sidewall height 195 x .60 = 117.0mm of tire sideall height So even the next closest is going to be about 5% taller than the 205/50's (although it's only 5mm x 2 in real life) -- greater issues that may concern you would be that the narrower tires will look a little sunken in the back of the car, and the sidewall shoulder (where the sidewall meets with the tread) might not be as aggressive (squared off) looking on the narrower tires.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2010 01:00
|
|
|
Going back for a more thorough look at the VR tomorrow. There's a private Volvo specialist in town that said they will go over it for me. The clutch pedal travel is what worries me most, and if it doesn't check out I want the clutch and slave replaced. My research doesn't show any complaints about long travel, just very light pedal pressure (which is standard). I want the car but fortunately haven't passed the point of emotional no return...
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 03:28
|
|
|
Ether Frenzy posted:Generally it's going to be kind of not a great tire for the snow due to being relatively fat and flat, but you might have more tread choice luck here: Thanks for the reply. I think I'm just going to go with these Kumho Solus KR21 in a 205/60 and if they don't work this winter then I will have 2 set of steelies to put a winter tire on. The other options under consideration are a Goodyear Traction. I liked the tread pattern on some Goodyear Viva 2s I saw at Walmart  but its made for Walmart so I don't know wtf. Its frustrating shopping for tires on the internet. Its a big enough purchase to warrant research but every review of any tire that I've looked at has at least a hand full of "worst tire ever" or "killed my whole family" mixed with suspiciously bombastic acclaim.Btw, I was able to fix my heated seats! It turns out that I was not the first one in there - the cover was already zip tied down. So I pulled the cover with the seat in place and found that one end of the thermostat had come unplugged. I put it back and put a drop of solder on to hold it in place. I also rearranged the element wires and used some duct tape to hold them in place. As Lloyd said, there's not much to it. I also went in to my new awesome volvo mechanic to get the heater core flushed (too cold to do at home now). He owns a bunch of volvos and as I was waiting he invited me to check out his 242. The interior was all redone from a honda or something. It was on jack stands and the hood was up. It took me a minute to figure out what was going on under the hood. It had a 6 liter GM V8  with an enormous turbo attached to it - it must come out of a truck. The engine itself fit in really nice but the homemade turbo intake took up a lot of space.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2010 22:03
|
|
|
After a more thorough test drive of the '06 V70R, I'm pretty sure that's just the way the clutch is. It shifts well, no slipping, and there's still quite a lot of travel after it engages. However, there's a kind of a moan/buzz from the left front through a right turn at highway speed. Best case I suppose it could be some sort of strange wear pattern on the LF, but I'm thinking wheel bearing. It does have winter tires on it so they would be more susceptible to weird wearing. Having it privately inspected tomorrow, but it honestly isn't giving me a super warm/fuzzy feeling. edit - some research on swedespeed leads me to believe it may be the "beer-bottle sound" that is of unknown origin. It was completely steady state, which doesn't really point to wheel bearing in my experience. Weird. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Nov 25, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2010 03:37
|
|
|
I have an 04 VR, so far it's been fairly inexpensive for an expensive to repair car. I do have a Volvo warranty for another year/10k miles though. Mostly as was already said, the angle gear wears outs, leaks, dies. It's expensive and other than weeping seals, there's no way to predict failure. The shocks are more like $600 a corner, check if they are leaking too. There is an underbody strap that can get caught, pushed into the driveshaft and cause serious financial pain, you can safely remove it in the driveway. They only drink premium fuel, brake parts are expensive but turbo boost and 4C are really fun. Oh, the biggest drivability issue is the turning ratio, which is supremely awful. Some parking garages, tight ones, are nightmares. Oh, and the radiators leak from a weak plastic joint. Oh, and there's a noise called axle ping from loose bolts, it's annoying but can be fixed. The interior upgrades in 05 are nice, the aluminum trim etc.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2010 07:53
|
|
|
If anyone with an S60/V70/xc70wants these: http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=127,387&P_ID=868&CAT_ID=387&V_ID=1721 Shoot me a PM. $20 and they're yours. They caused too much Vibration for my liking in my XC70. I had them in for about a month. They install in about 10 minutes. That includes drinking a beer. The handling difference was obvious though. Less rock from the motor andmore responsive turning.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2010 15:06
|
|
|
netwerk23 posted:They only drink premium fuel, brake parts are expensive but turbo boost and 4C are really fun. Oh, the biggest drivability issue is the turning ratio, which is supremely awful. Some parking garages, tight ones, are nightmares. Oh, and the radiators leak from a weak plastic joint. Oh, and there's a noise called axle ping from loose bolts, it's annoying but can be fixed. The interior upgrades in 05 are nice, the aluminum trim etc. I have an M3 so premium fuel is something I'm very used to - in fact 91 octane is a nice step down, as my car much prefers 94. Parts I'm sure will be heart-stopping, as Volvos are horrendously marked up in Canada to start with. A VR stickered for around $63+K up here, even with our dollar near parity with the US dollar.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2010 15:26
|
|
|
compressioncut posted:I have an M3 so premium fuel is something I'm very used to - in fact 91 octane is a nice step down, as my car much prefers 94. The forums on SS are filled with good knowledge, but as with any high traffic forum there's a lot of repetition. The forums on V70R.com get much less traffic but have some smart people too. Most of my new performance parts I get from IPD, most OEM parts I get from Volvo of Dallas's volvowholesaleparts.com The 4C technology is around ten years old, they're pretty heavy pig cars and while there is some performance room in the engine, it's expensive to go beyond +/- 50HP. Most people go for a larger front IC, software flash and maybe exhaust for a modest gain. Depending on how much you enjoy turning a wrench, they can be very rewarding cars for being essentially hot family haulers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2010 17:12
|
|
|
The dealer let me have it all day after the inspection I had done. Speaking of which, there is nothing wrong with it aside from cosmetic stuff (which I obviously knew about) and a few burned out bulbs. The fog lights are a little weird. The relay clicks, and the green LED lights up, but the lights do not come on. The tech thinks it could just be that the bulbs are out, but also agrees it seems a little weird. There's no indication in the message center about it. Lots of cosmetic stuff, and they are asking way too much, but they seem to want me to buy it. See if we can make a deal. p.s. the turning radius is currently pretty amusing, which will I'm sure will get really annoying fast.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 04:27
|
|
|
compressioncut posted:The dealer let me have it all day after the inspection I had done. Speaking of which, there is nothing wrong with it aside from cosmetic stuff (which I obviously knew about) and a few burned out bulbs. When I bought my R from the dealer, I went through with a fine tooth comb and got them to discount for every thing wrong. An R is not a corolla or honda that will go like hotcakes. It's a niche car that a lot of people won't touch. Also, it's near the end of the year so they are going to want it off their books before the end of the year. Go in there with the attitude that getting the car is not paramount, that you can walk at any time if the deal isn't what you want and be prepared to spend 3-4 hours there to get it. The dealer wanted $6k for my 98 R, I got them down to $5150 out the door. If I stuck around another hour or two I probably could have gotten it for $5k. It is entirely possible to get the car for a decent price. If the dealership is not a Volvo dealer, you could go to a Volvo dealer to get a ballpark figure on what all the cosmetic repairs would cost them to fix and then take that to the dealer with the car and show them what it will cost you to take this car off their hands and what it would cost them to get it fixed. Using some hard numbers to back them down off the price. And don't even talk about financing until a price on the car is set in stone. Get your financing elsewhere otherwise they will try to get you on the backend if you bargained a good deal on the car.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 05:13
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:When I bought my R from the dealer, I went through with a fine tooth comb and got them to discount for every thing wrong. An R is not a corolla or honda that will go like hotcakes. It's a niche car that a lot of people won't touch. Also, it's near the end of the year so they are going to want it off their books before the end of the year. Go in there with the attitude that getting the car is not paramount, that you can walk at any time if the deal isn't what you want and be prepared to spend 3-4 hours there to get it. The dealer wanted $6k for my 98 R, I got them down to $5150 out the door. If I stuck around another hour or two I probably could have gotten it for $5k. It is entirely possible to get the car for a decent price. If the dealership is not a Volvo dealer, you could go to a Volvo dealer to get a ballpark figure on what all the cosmetic repairs would cost them to fix and then take that to the dealer with the car and show them what it will cost you to take this car off their hands and what it would cost them to get it fixed. Using some hard numbers to back them down off the price. And don't even talk about financing until a price on the car is set in stone. Get your financing elsewhere otherwise they will try to get you on the backend if you bargained a good deal on the car. Lots of good points in there. I'm finally being smart and bringing my father-in-law with me as a safety. He loves this poo poo and has made some of the same points, especially about the fact it's a niche car and not easy to sell. What's got me slightly confused is that they are asking $7000 over Edmunds TMV, which also happens to correlate with the Black Book (Canadian thing) value, so I don't know what the gently caress. It isn't a Volvo dealership, but it did sit at the local one for a while at the same price.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 05:59
|
|
|
compressioncut posted:Lots of good points in there. I'm finally being smart and bringing my father-in-law with me as a safety. He loves this poo poo and has made some of the same points, especially about the fact it's a niche car and not easy to sell. If I may ask...what year is it exactly and what is the dealer asking for? Edit: also, do you know the mileage on the odometer? Oxphocker fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Nov 27, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 06:35
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:If I may ask...what year is it exactly and what is the dealer asking for? It's an '06 and the mileage is high-ish for the year. However, the independent inspection at the Volvo specialist, as I've said, was clean. I'm going to remain cagey about specifics for now because, well, I tend to do stupid poo poo when I buy cars and don't like hearing about it. That, and someone always pipes up to say there are six down their street for thousands less and half the mileage. Pretty sure I'll be OK this time, and I'll disclose details if I accomplish anything.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 07:35
|
|
|
compressioncut posted:It's an '06 and the mileage is high-ish for the year. However, the independent inspection at the Volvo specialist, as I've said, was clean. I'm going to remain cagey about specifics for now because, well, I tend to do stupid poo poo when I buy cars and don't like hearing about it. That, and someone always pipes up to say there are six down their street for thousands less and half the mileage. A comparable car in the US with higher mileage would retail at a dealer for around 19,500 USD. I'd shoot for 16k as a reasonable bargaining position. Convert to Canadian as you see fit... (that's by kelly blue book standards)
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 08:50
|
|
|
Oxphocker posted:A comparable car in the US with higher mileage would retail at a dealer for around 19,500 USD. I'd shoot for 16k as a reasonable bargaining position. Convert to Canadian as you see fit... (that's by kelly blue book standards) Yep, Canadian book retail value is similar. Around $21k. The dollar is basically comparable, but the market makes resale values, usually, very different. This is a rare case where they line up pretty well. Argh. I hate dealing with used car salesmen. The first mistake I made was letting them talk about my trade in first, where they were lowballing me like you wouldn't believe. That took pretty well all morning. Finally was able to talk the price of the VR down to where I'd be OK. But: what bugs the poo poo out of me is that basically every single piece of interior trim needs replacing as far as I'm concerned. It may be OK mechanically but it was pretty obviously abused. My M3 has the same mileage, is four years older, but is so, so much nicer. They had other cars on the lot with the same mileage and were near pristine - an '05 Magnum in particular, not that I want it but just as an example. I'm very unlikely to buy this car. final edit - not getting the car. Too bad, if they hadn't acted like a typical slimy used car place I might have put some more effort into the deal. As it is they just wore me out. compressioncut fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Nov 28, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2010 15:49
|
|
|
With the 850 gone to the car graveyard in the sky, I'm shopping for a new car. There is a 2001 S80 for sale in my budget. How bad really are the electrics?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 04:25
|
|
|
sbaldrick posted:With the 850 gone to the car graveyard in the sky, I'm shopping for a new car. There is a 2001 S80 for sale in my budget. How bad really are the electrics? The electronics are top notch, they were hand installed and designed by the Amish.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 05:21
|
|
|
Over the Thanksgiving weekend I finally decided to tackle the head gasket on my 850 I've been dreading. Everything went to plan and was re-assembled correctly (I think...) but it now has an extremely rough idle. The engine will start, surge to 3500rpm, hold for a couple seconds, then begin to come down, it'll get real close to stalling then keep idling roughly. If I give it any throttle, it takes off up to about 3,000rpm, then works it's way back down. It does this every time I try starting it. Everything else sounds normal on the block. I checked the vacuum tree and it lines up with how I took it apart. It's still up on jack stands so I haven't had a chance to put it under load. I've looked around and only see intermittent surging issues, nothing that occurs every time it tries to start. I can post a video if anyone thinks that would help. Thanks. JJamesB fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Nov 29, 2010 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:14
|
|
|
I've got a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo with the "premium sound system" IE CD Player. I put a new battery in and this cause the stereo to require the passcode. I put the code on the card in, that looks official and now its locked due to incorrect code. Does anyone know of a universal code or some sort of bypass/reset to change it back to what I would assume be the factory setting?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 19:53
|
|
|
Rugpisser posted:I've got a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo with the "premium sound system" IE CD Player. In my experience with Volvo stereos the key needs to be in the "on" position for 2 hours continuously with the stereo on to reset a code lockout. The stereo needs continuous power; it doesn't matter if the engine is on or not. Remember that turning the key to "ignition" to start the car will cut power to the radio. If you have a dealer nearby they'll help you get the right code for free. Last time I needed this they just gave it to me over the phone. If you're sure it's the original stereo, they can look usually look up the code using the car's VIN, otherwise you'll need to remove the head unit to give them serial codes. Don't keep plugging the code in if it didn't work before, you'll just lock it again. I'm assuming the card is wrong; if it's right and the stereo's not taking the code then it's hosed. There's no master reset code or button. Ask me about the unusable factory stereo in my v40.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 20:53
|
|
|
JJamesB posted:Over the Thanksgiving weekend I finally decided to tackle the head gasket on my 850 I've been dreading. Everything went to plan and was re-assembled correctly (I think...) but it now has an extremely rough idle. I'd double check your cam timing (making sure the timing belt is on right), then search around for anything along the intake tract with a missing clamp or not quite connected hose, or a hose with a hole in it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2010 21:11
|
|
|
Hey guys, I know I've been popping in here asking about this or that Volvo model, but I've been looking around for one, so I'd like your input again. I'm looking at a 2001 Volvo S40 with 103K on the clock for $4,900 (might be able to get it for $4,500 though). Things were pretty simple on those, automatic is standard and so is the turbo on the 1.9. This one is pretty basic, no foglights, sunroof or leather. However, it looks pretty straight and in decent shape overall. I've fit okay in an S80, but at 6' 3", I don't know how I'll do in this though the interior dimensions are similar to my SX4. I'm pretty much wondering if there's anything I should look out for besides the transmission (common failure point?), electrical stuff or the turbo oil return O ring during the test drive. My other question is if I'll be able to do any of the basic work myself and if it's even remotely fun to drive. Unfortunately, reviews are about 2/3 ecstatic about the car and 1/3 hates it more than Satan's anus...apparently not all Volvos are created equally. Thanks guys, I appreciate any info you can provide.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 04:13
|
|
|
Francis Baconator posted:Hey guys, I know I've been popping in here asking about this or that Volvo model, but I've been looking around for one, so I'd like your input again. I'm looking at a 2001 Volvo S40 with 103K on the clock for $4,900 (might be able to get it for $4,500 though). Things were pretty simple on those, automatic is standard and so is the turbo on the 1.9. This one is pretty basic, no foglights, sunroof or leather. However, it looks pretty straight and in decent shape overall. I've fit okay in an S80, but at 6' 3", I don't know how I'll do in this though the interior dimensions are similar to my SX4. I'm pretty much wondering if there's anything I should look out for besides the transmission (common failure point?), electrical stuff or the turbo oil return O ring during the test drive. My other question is if I'll be able to do any of the basic work myself and if it's even remotely fun to drive. Unfortunately, reviews are about 2/3 ecstatic about the car and 1/3 hates it more than Satan's anus...apparently not all Volvos are created equally. Thanks guys, I appreciate any info you can provide. I am 6'7", 300 pounds (350 when I drove it regularly) and own this car. You are very likely be able to comfortably drive it.  The turbo makes it fun as poo poo to drive. Make sure it works. That's good mileage, too. One of the reasons some people hate it is because it's not a through-and-through Volvo, it's a Volvo-skinned and -engined Mitsubishi Charisma. I have chosen to ignore that. I suspect most of the people who don't like them haven't driven one and are arguing on the internet for argument's sake. I do prefer the wagon's cute bubble rear end (this is what we have) over the plain-Jane sedan. It goes vroom like a motherfucker.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 07:26
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:I'd double check your cam timing (making sure the timing belt is on right), then search around for anything along the intake tract with a missing clamp or not quite connected hose, or a hose with a hole in it. I do believe I'm an embarresment to automobiles. Thanks for the info, cams were in time with each other, but the crank was a notch advanced... That didn't seem to make as much of a difference as the 5 bolts on the intake manifold that were barely finger tight. Thanks for the leads on where to look, really glad having the timing off didn't destroy me.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 08:00
|
|
|
Progress today! Finally a day off... Drivetrain is fully swapped! Just need a clutch fork return spring and mechanically the car is gravy. Still need to: -Splice ~six wires from the engine harness to the chassis harness -Distributor arm -Fuel lines -Vacuum lines Then the car should theoretically crank, idle, and maybe even drive!  Anybody have any tips on splicing a 1984 240 chassis harness to a 2.4 wiring harness? T-Bricks doesn't know crap.  Failing everything, I'm just gonna run my own equally-gauged wires to the fuse box and bypass the rainbow spaghetti altogether. poo poo is so stupid.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 10:17
|
|
|
So, looking ahead, what sucks/is awesome about the 760? I noticed a tilt steering wheel in the specs and am intrigued, as steering wheel clearance is really the only thing that bugs me about my 740.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 10:28
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:So, looking ahead, what sucks/is awesome about the 760? I noticed a tilt steering wheel in the specs and am intrigued, as steering wheel clearance is really the only thing that bugs me about my 740. I'd say that it depends on what era of 760 you're looking at. If you're looking at the '88-'90 ones, they were the predecessor to the 960, and as such had a lot of the same features (automatic climate control, power driver/passenger seats, premium sound, independent rear suspension on the sedans, etc.), but maintained the B230FT drivetrain. They also have a different dash layout than the 740 (including a tilt wheel.) If I were going to buy one, I'd look at this later era only, as they have a lot of cosmetic improvements over the older cars and you can add some pretty cool trim pieces from the 940 (Ecodes, eggcrate grilles, etc.) with little trouble. They also come stock with LH-Jetronic 2.4, which is really easy to work with if you're looking to add power. The only downsides I can think of is that all the luxury bits are expensive to fix when they break and that the rear suspension uses Nivomat shocks, which are staggeringly expensive to replace. IPD makes a kit to convert them to a regular shock/spring setup, though. Otherwise, they're just as durable as any other RWD Volvo from that era.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 11:26
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:I am 6'7", 300 pounds (350 when I drove it regularly) and own this car. You are very likely be able to comfortably drive it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 14:21
|
|
|
Francis Baconator posted:I can overlook the whole not really a Volvo thing. I guess since it's a Mitsubishi, it should have one of their turbos, not a Garrett, right? The only downside is that it's a base sedan (wish it was a v40!), so it doesn't have as many options, like heated seats, foglights or traction control. Is it still going to be worth a drat in the snow? The v40 doesn't come with that stuff stock either. Ask me how I know. I dunno how great it'll be in snow, probably average for a small FWD? PA and VA's snow isn't very impressive, so v  vI don't actually remember what the turbo is, which is awkward since I've replaced it with my own two hands. (because we hosed the engine, not Volvo  )TheJeffers posted:I'd say that it depends on what era of 760 you're looking at. If you're looking at the '88-'90 ones, they were the predecessor to the 960, and as such had a lot of the same features (automatic climate control, power driver/passenger seats, premium sound, independent rear suspension on the sedans, etc.), but maintained the B230FT drivetrain. They also have a different dash layout than the 740 (including a tilt wheel.) That's the era I'm interested in, and yeah I'd do the IPD conversion and Euro it out. What are the other luxobits that I'll need to worry about? Also, what are the headlights from that era? I'm in love with the dual sealeds on my '89 740 and I hate the huge boxes on my '92. My current 740 is awesome but it's always been the Workhorse Car of my car family and I want a DD that will be nice on long trips and stuff too (the v40 is really my wife's). I thought I'd found it in the 740T I got last year but that turned out to have some rust problems that left me cold to the idea of keeping it forever. Basically I want something with the best bones I can find before I dump cash into it making it nice. Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Dec 2, 2010 |
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 20:50
|
|
|
Splizwarf posted:That's the era I'm interested in, and yeah I'd do the IPD conversion and Euro it out. What are the other luxobits that I'll need to worry about? The power seats can go wonky (one side or the other doesn't move, total failure, etc.), and the HVAC vent door system is all vacuum-actuated and apparently is a pain to fix if any of it goes. I probably just read too much Brickboard when I got my 960, but it's worth knowing about so that you can check it out before buying. quote:Also, what are the headlights from that era? I'm in love with the dual sealeds on my '89 740 and I hate the huge boxes on my '92. Stock:  Ecodes (major improvement over stock):  quote:My current 740 is awesome but it's always been the Workhorse Car of my car family and I want a DD that will be nice on long trips and stuff too (the v40 is really my wife's). I thought I'd found it in the 740T I got last year but that turned out to have some rust problems that left me cold to the idea of keeping it forever. Basically I want something with the best bones I can find before I dump cash into it making it nice. If you're not looking to make it fast, I'd also look into '95-'98 960s/S90s. They're more common than 760s, have a superbly refined motor (B6304s) and are a dream for long trips on the freeway. They're also a lot newer, so they should have more life left in them (relatively speaking) than a 760. The same warnings apply with them as with the 760.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 21:14
|
|
|
TheJeffers posted:Stock: 90s-era Volvo headlights are so depressing. Even those e-codes look like they were stolen off a Polaroid camera. Tell me I can somehow make it look right, like  Only mine's dark red. And less glossy.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2010 23:18
|
|
|
Quad-Rectangles are the only acceptable headlights.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2010 00:29
|
|
|
Quad rectangles look OK, but they'd better have H1/H4 housings in them-they blow chunks with sealed beams. If you want a 760 with them, you'll have to buy a pre-'88 model. v vIt's been a while since I posted about my personal Volvo happenings-I traded my '81 245 to a friend for an '89 244DL. While I regret getting rid of the wagon, the quarter panels would have rusted out by the spring if I'd kept driving it through the winter, and I needed something more dependable, since I have a job now. It's had a lot of problems, though-the heater hose running from the firewall to the head burst the first day I had it, the timing belt and water pump needed to be replaced, and I lost the rear cam plug (and all my oil along with it) last weekend. The overdrive doesn't work, the taillights are unpredictable, and the seats need some work, but it's still a decent car.  XOVAAN: Show me which wires you're having trouble with and I'll see if I can help.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2010 06:53
|
|
|
82Daion posted:
No pic handy right now but you can visualize it with this info: Referring to Haynes 4A-29 and 5-7 (bottom diagram)  That's the 2.4 harness coming through the firewall. -Big R/Y and small R/Y are easy. We're running those directly to Fuse #4 and should have no issues. -Violet is being ignored for now. -G and R/Gr are being ignored for now. -BL/BLK being ignored for now. -Pink ignored for now. -BL/Y I'm guessing splices to BL/Y on the ignition circuit (with the connection loop/splice, wire 50 on the ignition picture in diagram Haynes 5-7) -Solid blue wire is giving me issues. On diagram 4A-29 (2.4 chassis wiring), Ignition Switch's blue wire goes to section "Q" (Data Link connector) but I have no idea what this is. On diagram 5-7 (k-jet chassis wiring), the ignition switch's wire is blue/yellow and goes to Fuse #12 instead. Unless of course I'm completely lost in verbiage here. 2.4 diagram (4A-29)  K-Jet diagram (5-7) 
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2010 12:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 00:59 |
|
|
Without having a Bentley book here in front of me, my suspicion is that the "data link connector" is the diagnostic box that lives on the driver's side strut tower in cars that originally came with LH2.4. I'd skip the spaghetti and just connect the blue wire from that connector to fuse 11, 12, or 13 in your car, since it's probably for switched 12V for the ECU. I did something similar to get power for the computer in my 2.2 swap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 4, 2010 18:50
|
|