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I should have said I want to keep the basic base scheme (the gray with snow), but need something else so it isn't just overwhelming  The ruins are a good idea- I can do that or some kind of random ork bits rusted up I think.
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Dec 4, 2010 21:33
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For ruins, Astronomican Grey + Devlan Mud is a simply yet good-looking recipe; it's how I did the bases for my Wraithguard.
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Dec 4, 2010 21:54
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Crossposting picdump from Oath thread first up is the death company and LeMartes:  Click here for the full 1024x765 image.  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. Thunderhammer  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. Plasma Pistol  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. Powersword  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. Bolt Pistol/Chainsword  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. Flamer  Click here for the full 1024x765 image. and a bit of lighting form the power sword  Click here for the full 1024x764 image.  Click here for the full 1024x764 image. Here's the High Elf Spearmen I did. Had some fun with the posing on the second rank.  Click here for the full 1024x764 image.  Click here for the full 1024x764 image.  Click here for the full 1024x764 image.  Click here for the full 1024x764 image. I REALLY need some help with basing. My brain just goes all herp-derp the moment glue and ballast come into play. Should I be basing before priming? basing, painting bases, then super-gluing models to bases? I'm still poring over the links in the op, but none of it seems to stick. halp.
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Dec 5, 2010 00:10
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I personally do my basing before I paint, because the way I drybrush to get the desert look would gently caress up the paint on the legs of the model. It also lends itself better to assembly-line painting. Mini goes on the base -> Mini primed with gesso -> Sand/rocks glued on -> Several layers of drybrushing* -> Painting mini, paying careful attention not to make paint from legs/feet get onto the basing. *(scorched brown-> darkflesh-> parasite brown -> bubonic brown -> khaki) If I were to add static grass or other things, I'd probably add them after I finished the rest of the model, just to prevent problems. The way that I've seen other people do it is to paint the model, glue the ballast, prime/paint the ballast with one or two colors, then add flocking etc.
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Dec 5, 2010 00:45
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I've decided to make another try at Gor-Rok using this guy: I was able to cobble together his gently caress-off mace by chopping up the great weapon, but I'm honestly at a lost for how to paint him. He's supposed to be albino. Any ideas for making him look like this: 
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Dec 5, 2010 01:10
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Cthulu Carl posted:He's supposed to be albino. Any ideas for making him look like this: White + Elf Flesh washed with thinned Ogryn Flesh, highlighted again with the same?
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Dec 5, 2010 01:12
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Cthulu Carl posted:I've decided to make another try at Gor-Rok using this guy: How do you like the model itself? Did the detail hold up well? I almost got one in an impulse buy for my 'starting soon I promise' lizardmen.
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Dec 5, 2010 01:22
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Fyrbrand posted:How do you like the model itself? Did the detail hold up well? I almost got one in an impulse buy for my 'starting soon I promise' lizardmen. The right arm is too close to the dorsal spike for my taste (but that might be my fault), and the shield arm will need to be painted separately, but I like it. I wouldn't use him as a regular Saurus hero, just because the anatomy isn't quite right (he looks more like a mini Kroxigor), but I'm hoping he'll look awesome as an albino dino with a gigantic beating stick.
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Dec 5, 2010 01:44
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Cthulu Carl posted:He's supposed to be albino. Any ideas for making him look like this: Pallid/Pale flesh (or approximation), with thinned leviathan purple shading would give you a good albino effect. Hell Diver fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Dec 5, 2010 |
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Dec 5, 2010 04:26
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Crossposted from the 40K thread This summer, I got into 40K. After hearing about a dozen conflicting opinions regarding what faction I should play, what sides were over and underpowered, what was the most fun to play, etc, I ultimately went with my initial gut reaction and chose Necrons. I know that I'm not winning any points for picking Necrons as my starting army, but I knew that they were easy to paint / build quickly, and I liked their lore. However, I wanted something different for their aesthetic. The black / green combination was great, but most people opted to go with it because of the green rods that come packaged with the pieces. After a lot of debate, I decided to go for a red / rusted look. I could mass produce pieces this way, and the technique that I was to use didn't require all that much talent. I was pretty happy with the results. Rust. Although I'm in law school now, I have a technical theater undergraduate degree. I had a props class, so I remembered a few (a few) techniques for how to make rust. The technique that I would use was simple: apply a coat of rust-colored spray paint, let it dry, create a salt mask, then spray over the whole thing with silver spray paint. Scrape the salt away, and bam, I had rust. I did this to all the pieces in my necron army, but I think it's best illustrated with my monolith, where I could use some sea salt due to the increased size of the piece: (I apologize for the quality of the pictures - All I had with me in the shop was my Droid)  Click here for the full 1530x2048 image. If you look closely, you can probably see bits of salt left on. I didn't mind that - It gave some texture to the finished product:  Click here for the full 1530x2048 image. As you can see, I used red tubes (redtube  ) from Hobylinc instead of the stock green tubes that normally come with Necron models. I liked the way it turned out. My only regret is going back to add the white paint to the front of the model - it just didn't turn out the way I wanted it to. It's likely that I'll scrape that away soon. Instead of the crystal at the top, I crushed up some cheap red faux-gems that I found at wal-mart for about $4. I went out and beat them with a hammer. Felt good, man. Click here for the full 1530x2048 image. I used the same gems at the base of my (Extra blurry  ) Necron Lord. The only other motif I went with was that of metal - shards of metal, leaping up from the base. I accomplished this by cutting the wireframe that the pieces came on, twisting it, and spray painting over it with silver. Easy to do, and it gave the pieces a really unique look. The most extreme example of this would be on my Nightbringer: Click here for the full 1530x2048 image. This was when he was almost done - if you look closely, you can see some gaps missing in the red, and you can also tell that some of the red was bleeding into the bottom of his robe. I might repaint this one altogether; one of my friends pointed out that the color scheme matched that guy from Assassin's Creed, and now I can't shake the association. Oh well. The whole army, so far:  Click here for the full 2048x1530 image. Since that was taken, I've purchased another Monolith, and I'm almost done with it. After that, I figure I'll be just about done with Necrons. Next up, I'm trying to force myself to learn how to paint by hand with a Chaos Demon army. I figure that the worst case scenario is that I gently caress up horribly and blame it on the rift 
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Dec 5, 2010 05:15
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Wow that is insanely badass
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Dec 5, 2010 12:31
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Throne of Bhalz posted:Awesome looking 'crons, that's for sure. Also: What can change the nature of a man? C'tan
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Dec 5, 2010 16:41
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I'm an idiot
Daedleh fucked around with this message at 17:23 on Dec 6, 2010 |
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Dec 5, 2010 20:18
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Daedleh posted:I Oath 1 Biker Warboss, 3 Warbikers and an attack squig for the irongob. You missed, duder. You want this thread Good luck with the Oath!
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Dec 5, 2010 20:57
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Hell Diver posted:Pallid/Pale flesh (or approximation), with thinned leviathan purple shading would give you a good albino effect. The P3 Flesh Wash I bought from Paint Vagrant went pretty well on Elf Flesh. If he lightens up elf flesh with white and then used the flesh wash he might get the look he wants.
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Dec 5, 2010 21:02
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 Power blade test- trying to really force myself to do more blending, and simple flat blades like this are a good way to practice I think. Of course photographing anything involving enchanted blue blow is gonna suck, but oh well.
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Dec 6, 2010 05:41
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Fyrbrand posted:
Great progress so far. Stop painting better than me!!! 
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Dec 6, 2010 06:34
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Fyrbrand posted:
This has made me realize two things: 1) Painting Grey Knights as, well, grey can still work when you make use of gold as a metallic. 2) Grey Knight Terminators have really thin wrists. 
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Dec 6, 2010 06:41
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NecronSchmecron posted:Great progress so far. Stop painting better than me!!! Thx man. Not gonna lie, when you started posting here you were definitely showing me up with your slamders, so I had to step up my painting. bhsman posted:This has made me realize two things: Yeah the GKTs this dude did were what led me to using actual greys. (Dude's Imperial Fists are cool as hell too.) Agreed on the second point. Basically I'm expecting to paint these up and immediately start seeing the new Grey Knight pics start leaking.
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Dec 6, 2010 07:36
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Fyrbrand posted:Thx man. Not gonna lie, when you started posting here you were definitely showing me up with your salamanders, so I had to step up my painting. Stepped up to the Nth degree, I'll say. Your GK powersword is pretty much how I painted mine (at least the look, anyway) but your blending technique seems a lot more effective, especially at the hilt of the blade. PV's tips and techniques seem to be paying off, eh?  Again, dude, great job.
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Dec 6, 2010 08:49
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Fyrbrand posted:
I like the blade. Nice work Frybrand!
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Dec 6, 2010 15:13
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Does anyone who airbrushes use some sort of air purifier to help with dust and hair settling on the drying model? A few of my recent pieces have some hints of dust settling on them during some point of drying and I would like to curb this as much as possible (Yes my house is clean but I live in a basement apartment so all the heating vents are in the ceiling, which often negates my cleaning efforts just hours after I finish. Also I am getting a long hair cat soon because I am crazy).
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Dec 7, 2010 00:03
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So despite my best efforts, I cant seem to photograph decals without them reflecting. IRL they are completely matte and dont shine at all. They all look matte, like the ones on the dreads. Also, some of the dudes are missing static grass, doing that tomorrow morning.        
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Dec 7, 2010 08:59
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PaintVagrant posted:So despite my best efforts, I cant seem to photograph decals without them reflecting. IRL they are completely matte and dont shine at all. They all look matte, like the ones on the dreads. Also, some of the dudes are missing static grass, doing that tomorrow morning. 
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Dec 7, 2010 09:08
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those look tip top pv. once you're all done with the commissions are you going to start working on your own stuff more? i want to see some non gw stuff from you
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Dec 7, 2010 09:08
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holy fuckkk PaintVagrant for president 2011. How do you get that metal so... perfect. The weathering on the red makes me want to reach into the monitor and put the models into my mouth and/or other orifices. e: i would have sex with those plastic space marines Vayra fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Dec 7, 2010 |
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Dec 7, 2010 09:25
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Hey PV, stop being so good, kthx. Better yet, go back into business and paint my ultras because I'm just gonna gently caress em up.
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Dec 7, 2010 09:29
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Bullet Proof posted:those look tip top pv. once you're all done with the commissions are you going to start working on your own stuff more? i want to see some non gw stuff from you once i finish commissions, i may never paint another GW model, so yeah 
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Dec 7, 2010 09:52
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PaintVagrant posted:once i finish commissions, i may never paint another GW model, so yeah Not even for a Peevee Treat? A.K.A. Handy-J?
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Dec 7, 2010 10:50
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PaintVagrant posted:once i finish commissions, i may never paint another GW model, so yeah B-but, GW models are neat!
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Dec 7, 2010 12:09
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GW do make some neat models but painting huge armies instead of kewl display pieces or little skirmish teams is lame
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Dec 7, 2010 12:34
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Bullet Proof posted:GW do make some neat models but painting huge armies instead of kewl display pieces or little skirmish teams is lame I agree with this. It's why I've never finished an entire army. It's also why I'm purely operating on a "Buy One, Paint One" style philosophy now. Keeps me on task. Of course, I have 'one' from three different armies. . .
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Dec 7, 2010 12:47
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Hell Diver posted:I agree with this. It's why I've never finished an entire army. It's also why I'm purely operating on a "Buy One, Paint One" style philosophy now. Keeps me on task. Of course, I have 'one' from three different armies. . . I'm sure everyone's sick of me saying it by now but this is, as far as I'm concerned, by far the best way to approach painting an army.. don't buy the next thing until the last thing is painted. Sure it's a pain in the arse if you want to get gaming with a new army right now but eh.. worth it in the long run
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Dec 7, 2010 14:12
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I wish that I had the income to just buy and paint some of the awesome display pieces out there. There are a ton of great companies that make really nice single models, and I would love to take a swing at a good 54 or 72mm sculpt (despite the fact that I probably couldn't do it justice) Unfortunately I am a pretty strict budget, so I am basically (re)painting all the Eldar I own. Which is probably a good thing overall, but yea, the army painting gets a bit old sometimes.
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Dec 7, 2010 14:26
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PaintVagrant posted:So despite my best efforts, I cant seem to photograph decals without them reflecting. IRL they are completely matte and dont shine at all. They all look matte, like the ones on the dreads. Also, some of the dudes are missing static grass, doing that tomorrow morning. Yup. These loving own. Wow.
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Dec 7, 2010 15:07
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PV teach me to airbrush vehicles like you. I suck at it!
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Dec 7, 2010 15:26
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I just got some Forge World bits and some of them are quite bent, I remember a while ago someone talking about bending resin back into shape but can't remember how to do it. Any suggestions?
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Dec 7, 2010 15:33
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ineptmule posted:I just got some Forge World bits and some of them are quite bent, I remember a while ago someone talking about bending resin back into shape but can't remember how to do it. Any suggestions? Run it under hot water for about 30 seconds, bend, repeat. Be careful.
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Dec 7, 2010 15:35
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So, today I was trying to do a proof of concept on an old gift card for me Armageddon Steel legion tank scheme. I learned that I have no idea what I'm doing. I started with an Adeptus Battlegray base and tried to get up to Rotting Flesh in stripes. It all looked like poo poo. Does anyone have any pointers on painting Steel Legion tank camo schemes? Here's an example.
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Dec 7, 2010 22:43
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ElSeņorPeePants posted:So, today I was trying to do a proof of concept on an old gift card for me Armageddon Steel legion tank scheme. I learned that I have no idea what I'm doing. I started with an Adeptus Battlegray base and tried to get up to Rotting Flesh in stripes. It all looked like poo poo. Does anyone have any pointers on painting Steel Legion tank camo schemes? Here's an example. Adeptus Battlegray is what I'd start out with, but isn't rotting flesh more of a green? That picture looks like you want to use bleached bone or something like that for the lighter color, and very lightly drybrush all over the adeptus battlegray with the bleached bone. I'm a beginning painter though so my advice might be completely wrong.
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Dec 7, 2010 22:48
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