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Chunderbuss posted:How does the "dumb" system in my (older, Jap) STI compare to this trickery? Without DCCD: 25% power to all 4 wheels at all times. With DCCD: Depends on where that wheel is set at. 25-25/25-25, 22.5-22.5/26.5-26.5, 20-20/30-30
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Dec 7, 2010 17:56
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The Continental ExtremeContact DWS has been getting good word of mouth though I hear it also has a bit of a soft sidewall. They are supposed to be fantastic in the ran though and hold their own in light snow. I recommended that a friend try them in his Tiburon and he loves them, but I also know he doesn't push his car as hard as I do. I too love the RE960as and I'm on my 2nd set right now, but I will probably go with the DWS when the time comes to get new all-seasons unless something new comes out in the spring that looks interesting.
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Dec 7, 2010 17:56
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On a similar topic, I'm starting to look for Summer (all-season, really) tires for my 2010 WRX. Does anyone have any recommendations for quieter tires (preferably with comparable performance to the stock Dunlop SP Sport 01s)? I may do a track day or an autocross with them... but at the end of the day, I tend to baby my car more than I push it (so I'm willing to sacrifice some grip and performance for comfort and quietness). I already have winter tires, so these would be 3-seasons tires for those rainy springs/autumns in Seattle. There are lots of tire recommendations on NASIOC and the like, but those guys are all about performance so their opinions are quite skewed.
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Dec 7, 2010 18:40
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Amandyke posted:Without DCCD: 25% power to all 4 wheels at all times. Splinter fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Dec 7, 2010 |
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Dec 7, 2010 20:47
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Splinter posted:What about during turns and wheel slippage? Well I suppose that might depend on your LSD. But as subaru has a symetrical drive train you *shouldn't* get single wheel spin fests like you might with a transversely mounted engine.
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Dec 7, 2010 21:36
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 SUBARU PROBLEM Car: 2004 Forester XT, no mods, ~75,000 miles. This is going to be hard as hell to describe, but here goes. Today my car started making a horrid noise that sounds like something is either rubbing metal on metal or like a bad bearing whenever it's running. I haven't traced it down to the exact spot (need to look closer when I get a chance) but it's definitely coming from the front of the engine. What I'm thinking it might be is either a bad pulley, a bearing in one of the pulleys (assuming they have bearings), or a tensioner that is failing. Is there a good place to start, like a common problem? I figure I'd remove one of the belts, crank it up and see if the problem is there, and then do the same with the other belt. I'm just hoping it's not the tensioner on the timing belt  . Any direction or advice would be great!
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Dec 7, 2010 23:24
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It could be your timing belt rubbing against the timing cover and making a pulley freak out. I've heard of it happening on a few 04 STIs, but I don't know if that would specifically cause this noise.
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Dec 8, 2010 00:01
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My vote would go for the AC Idler Pulley. They go around that mileage. Undo the tension on that belt so you can spin the pulley. If it sounds like a roller skate wheel and spins freely, it's shot. It should be silent and actually be a little resistant to spin freely on its own. I think they're like $15 and take all of 10 minutes to replace.
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Dec 8, 2010 00:25
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Amandyke posted:Without DCCD: 25% power to all 4 wheels at all times. not quite so simple. with the standard 50:50 split, there's 25% TORQUE going to all wheels when all wheel speeds are the same and there is no slippage. Once slip happens, the viscous coupling will resist the speed difference and the torque bias will change depending on available traction and the amount of lockup. because it's viscous, the center diff can't really transfer 100% of the torque front or rear. The WRX rear LSD works the same way. So depending on the amount of torque applied you could get close to 100% to one rear wheel, but in reality it will be how much the viscous couplings can actually take before they start to slip. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Dec 8, 2010 |
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Dec 8, 2010 01:21
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bull3964 posted:My vote would go for the AC Idler Pulley. They go around that mileage. I pulled off the power steering/alternator belt, fired it up and it was still there. Pulled off the a/c belt and it purred like a kitten. Slapped a bit of 3-in-1 oil on the a/c pulley and put the belt back on and it sounded much better. I figure if the sound comes back in a day or two it is a bad pulley, otherwise it was a loose belt. I spun it and it did sound like a roller-skate wheel, so you're probably right and I'll replace it this weekend. I'm just happy it's a cheap fix and my car won't sound like a family of woodpeckers live under the hood 
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Dec 8, 2010 02:57
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Don't delay replacing it. There have been reported cases of the bearing failing altogether, causing the belt to jump and eat into the plastic timing belt cover.
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Dec 8, 2010 03:56
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Overpriced Balloons posted:Thanks for the feedback RE: Spec'ing a 2011 WRX. I'll forward all your replies along to my father and see what happens. I have a feeling he will still end up getting the short-shifter and exhaust from the factory, but maybe after reading this he will consider buying the car without the options and seeing how he likes it before ordering the extras. Well, to my surprise he took the advice here and ordered a WRX (premium) with no extras. And in that cool graphite color too. A happy ending for once
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Dec 8, 2010 04:00
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Overpriced Balloons posted:And in that cool graphite color too. Yay  Of course, it looks more like this right now: 
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Dec 8, 2010 04:12
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Went hooning in the snow with the guys from shortshift.tv for their winter showdown webisode this past weekend. Looking forward to seeing video of my epic snow donuts and power slides. And being able to share. 
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Dec 8, 2010 04:14
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Moruitelda posted:Went hooning in the snow with the guys from shortshift.tv for their winter showdown webisode this past weekend. Looking forward to seeing video of my epic snow donuts and power slides. And being able to share. I certainly didn't have someone to take video of it, and it melted pretty quickly:  We'll probably get more snow in the coming month and then I'll be out having my first taste of snow donuts.
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Dec 8, 2010 05:04
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Overpriced Balloons posted:Well, to my surprise he took the advice here and ordered a WRX (premium) with no extras. And in that cool graphite color too. A happy ending for once Very nice! Since he ordered it, keep us updated on how long it takes to come in.
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Dec 8, 2010 06:05
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bull3964 posted:It's so pretty 
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Dec 8, 2010 08:36
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This is going to be my 6th winter on the same set of Nokian RSi winter tires on my '05 Saabaru 9-2X. The tread life on them is fine, and the built-in tread indicator still shows "6 - 4" (down from the original "8 - 6 - 4"). I remember a few years ago, a friend told me that winter tires have a shelf life because the rubber compound hardens up over time.. is there any truth to that? Should I be concerned with replacing my snows due to age, regardless of their remaining tread?
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Dec 8, 2010 20:54
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Recent tests have shown that a lot of tires actually have a 10-15 year shelf life unless they are UV damaged or rotting for some reason. So, unless you notice a loss in traction, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Dec 8, 2010 20:59
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Local Yokel posted:Someone in this thread mentioned selling me their used Legacy Outback cd changer/stereo unit. It's been a while, but I'd like to get my hands one one soon. One more try on this one. Looking for the Legacy/Outback head unit, preferably from '07 - early '09. Willing to spend $50-$150 depending on model & condition. TeamIce said he had one from a swap he did if anyone knows how to get ahold of them (doesn't have PMs).
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Dec 9, 2010 01:29
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Ive found a really clean low mileage stock 06 sti. I'm thinking of buying it but Ive read a bit about the transmission in the 07 being lengthened to increase street drivability as well as increase quarter mile times. Is it worth waiting for a decent 07 to show up or isthe transmission not that noticeable? That brings me to my next question: How hard is it to increase the transmission timings to that of the 07? I see the different transmission numbers on car101 but the numbers don't make much sense. Thanks
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Dec 9, 2010 03:55
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So after only a week of owning my LGT, the clutch is toast  . 54K on the car so I guess its not out of the ordinary, but it was bizarre how fast it went. I noticed no slippage while test driving, then a few days later it was slipping a bit when opening the throttle while cruising in 4th or 5th, then a few days after that it slowly crawls forward for a few seconds before the gear fully engages when starting in 1st or 2nd (this is accompanied by a lovely smell). Should I have the flywheel resurfaced or is it a good idea to replace it? The '05/'06 comes with a dual mass flywheel. Can those even be resurfaced? I've seen a lot of conflicting info out there. Some say the dual mass ones can't be resurfaced, some say its not recommended, and some say go for it  . Is there anything else I should have done or looked at while having the clutch replaced? Should I be wary of a low price quote on an OEM clutch kit from the mechanic? I was quoted $270 for the kit, which is lower than anything I've seen from online stores. I can't help but think some corners are being cut here. Also, what's the deal with the TSK3? A lot of people recommend installing it when replacing the clutch, but I'm not sure how important it is when going with an OEM setup.
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Dec 9, 2010 04:00
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can't be resurfaced. or maybe it can but don't bother. exedy stage 1 clutch kit is $541 (part# 15804) their flywheel is $284 (part# FF502) The oem kit from exedy is 344 You can sometimes find this stuff online for less, to the point where I sometimes don't even bother trying to price match. Expect to pay $400 in labor.
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Dec 9, 2010 04:36
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Scro posted:Ive found a really clean low mileage stock 06 sti. I'm thinking of buying it but Ive read a bit about the transmission in the 07 being lengthened to increase street drivability as well as increase quarter mile times. Is it worth waiting for a decent 07 to show up or isthe transmission not that noticeable? The revised gear ratios on the 07 WRX don't significantly improve street driveability (probably fuel economy more than anything), and combined with the crappy tune in the 07 WRX (probably the same for the STI) you're better off buying the 06. quote:That brings me to my next question: Crudely, bigger numbers are torquier (better acceleration) and smaller numbers are faster (better maintenance of high speeds = better fuel economy). For instance, the first gear in a Corvette is 2.95:1 and the sixth gear 0.56:1. So in conclusion, you could crack the case on the 06 gearbox and install 07 gears, but I doubt it'd be worth it in any way. There's a reason the 07 gearbox is $1400 less than the 06 gearbox on SGP; the close-ratio gearbox in the 06 forces you to be in the powerband of the engine more often. The 07 is faster at drag racing only because the gears are longer, resulting in you shifting less often (and losing time that way); in-gear acceleration is likely worse. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Dec 9, 2010 |
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Dec 9, 2010 04:46
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Splinter posted:So after only a week of owning my LGT, the clutch is toast Wow, that is almost exactly the same thing that happened with my LGT. I bought an '05 LGT in August of '09 and neither me nor my father noticed any troubling slippage on the test drives (we took 3, because there was a problem with the ECU that they had to fix). I took it home, drove it back and forth to work for 2 days (~55 miles each way, but 95% 5th gear). Then on the 3rd day of driving it, the clutch literally went out on the highway when I tried to overtake someone and gave it a decent amount of throttle. I managed to limp it to an exit and onto a side street, but I wasn't able to get it off of the road and had to call AAA and get it towed about 7 lousy blocks to the dealership. My car also had almost exactly the same mileage when this happened (53,890). When the Subaru dealership I had it towed to got a look at it, they recommended I keep all the old parts and call the State Attorney General about the lot I bought it from. The clutch had basically been ripped to shreds, the flywheel was ruined, and the master and slave cylinders needed to be replaced. They actually didn't think the master cylinder was going to need to be replaced at first, and they did the clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder, but when I came to pick it up the mechanic was like "drive this around the block and see if it feels right to you," and it really didn't. So they replaced the master cylinder and that took care of it, but they basically told me that it seemed like part of the system (probably the slave cylinder) had been improperly installed by the mechanic at the used car lot, and that caused it to wear constantly and eventually tear itself apart. I would be very very careful about it if you don't replace the flywheel. On mine, they told me the flywheel was damaged beyond resurfacing, and when I saw it I was pretty amazed. It had basically warped into a Frisbee. If your clutch doesn't feel 100% perfect after repair, or they have trouble bleeding it, consider having them do the master cylinder... Hopefully someone more knowledgeable about the hydraulic clutch system on the LGT can chime in with a real diagnosis of what went wrong and what needs to be replaced to properly fix it. In my situation I basically had to replace everything, and it cost over $1500, but then of course the car drove like it was brand new, and the mechanic at the Subaru dealer told me that it should be well more than 50,000 miles before I need another clutch. I'm 38,000 miles on, with quite a few 4K launches a handful 5k launches, and it still feels exactly like it did when I picked it up, so I'm thinking 70k should be easy. Hell, my old Volvo made it to 230,000 before the clutch started slipping pretty badly (although I didn't drive that car nearly as 'spiritedly' as I drive this one). edit: I had a thread in AI about this incident and it detailed the back-and-forth about what happened to the car, how it was diagnosed, and what repairs were required. Unfortunately it has fallen into the archives, but as luck would have it, someone else liked my writing style or something and reposted the entire first-post on i-club, so you can read the whole thing here: http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209340 Panoplied Platypus fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Dec 9, 2010 |
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Dec 9, 2010 04:58
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Amandyke posted:Well I suppose that might depend on your LSD. But as subaru has a symetrical drive train you *shouldn't* get single wheel spin fests like you might with a transversely mounted engine. The way power is distributed has absolutely nothing to do with the direction the engine is laid out. Hell, even generational and continental differences exist between cars. My Mazda has 3 open diffs with the option to pres butan to lock the center diff, the later gen adds 35/65 center bias and a rear LSD but no butan to push. Evos go from full mechanical to more advanced setups to individual yaw/wheel rate control in a few generations. BMW went from rear-biasing center diff with rear LSD to open diffs with computer controlled individual wheel braking to slow wheelspin. It just goes on and on. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Dec 9, 2010 |
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Dec 9, 2010 05:22
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Baby Hitler posted:The way power is distributed has absolutely nothing to do with the direction the engine is laid out. Hell, even generational and continental differences exist between cars. My Mazda has 3 open diffs with the option to pres butan to lock the center diff, the later gen adds 35/65 center bias and a rear LSD but no butan to push. Evos go from full mechanical to more advanced setups to individual yaw/wheel rate control in a few generations. BMW went from rear-biasing center diff with rear LSD to open diffs with computer controlled individual wheel braking to slow wheelspin. It just goes on and on. Except that it's easier to spin a shorter axle, so that wheel will always spin free in an open diff when there is a limited traction situation with both wheels on that axle. But way to bring in irrelevant information there. VDC is a replacement for LSD's when the car manufacturer wants to cheap out and achieve a similar result.
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Dec 9, 2010 07:32
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jamal posted:The WRX rear LSD works the same way. So depending on the amount of torque applied you could get close to 100% to one rear wheel, but in reality it will be how much the viscous couplings can actually take before they start to slip. The WRX (non-STI) doesn't have a rear LSD anymore. They did away with it in 08 when they added VDC.
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Dec 9, 2010 07:54
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jamal posted:can't be resurfaced. or maybe it can but don't bother. Overpriced Balloons posted:
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Dec 9, 2010 08:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Buy the 06 right now (provided a solid and thorough mechanical/body inspection, of course). Thanks for the really informative post. Couple of questions: 1) What's the SGP? 2) If you're going to retune the ecu as well as put a bigger turbo etc would the 07 gears probably be better due to the large torque increase brought in by the ECU + Turbo upgrade etc?
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Dec 9, 2010 11:20
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Hey all, I've had my Suby for about 6 months now and I love it. It's a 2010 Impreza standard. One thing I've been thinking about doing is giving it a bit of a better exhaust system. I love the engine note and hate the real pissant pipes sticking out of the huge-rear end silver muffler. You can sorta see what I mean here:  Now I dont want fart cans or anything that rattles windows. I'm not considering this for performance or anything like that. I'm only considering it because the tiny pipes outta the huge cans looks pretty awful and because more of that nice throaty rumble would make me happy. Is there a moderate exhaust upgrade that anybody could recommend? Or will this kill the car\totally not be worthwhile? [Edit: Fixing massive picture, apologies] [Edit: Fixed] H13 fucked around with this message at 14:06 on Dec 9, 2010 |
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Dec 9, 2010 13:54
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Scro posted:Thanks for the really informative post. quote:2) If you're going to retune the ecu as well as put a bigger turbo etc would the 07 gears probably be better due to the large torque increase brought in by the ECU + Turbo upgrade etc? I'm guessing you'd probably be fine with either car, but the 06 is here right now and it's pretty rare to find an unmolested one in my experience, so you should test drive it and then get it.
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Dec 9, 2010 16:06
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Scro posted:Thanks for the really informative post. Get the 06. Don't worry about the 07 gears. The 07 gears would potentially be more fragile due to having more force on them from being a longer ratio anyway. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Dec 9, 2010 |
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Dec 9, 2010 17:25
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I agree, get the '06. Clean, low miles STis are getting a bit harder to find as prices drop and douches pick them up and ruin them. If it's a good deal, and doesn't look like it's been beat on, get it. I test drove an '06 STi back when they were new, and it was completely exhilarating.
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Dec 9, 2010 19:17
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And the search continues.... '03 Forester, 100k, 5spd, private party, 1 owner, asking for $5k OBO. KBB has it between 5.5-7. Owner said it still has the original HG and clutch, still waiting to find out about the timing belts. Was originally from Maine and moved down here at 92k. Of course I'm going to have my mechanic check it out but is there anything I should be looking for so I don't waste my mechanic's time?
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Dec 9, 2010 23:24
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JayKay posted:And the search continues.... From Maine? Check for rust on that bad boy.
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Dec 10, 2010 00:53
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JayKay posted:And the search continues.... Rust. I'd bet money that the timing belt has not been changed. Count on doing that.
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Dec 10, 2010 02:22
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Yeah, rust was the first thing that popped in to my head. Also she just confirmed that it has the original timing belt. Going to see if I can get her to bite at 3k to factor in belt, clutch, hg replacement
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Dec 10, 2010 03:55
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I currently own a 96 volvo 850 wagon and I'm wanting to shop around for a 98 outback legacy for my next upgrade. What kind of mileage can these things keep running till? what are the big problems i should look for? In my area I've found a few with 150k to 170k in mileage for around 3 grand. Good deals?
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Dec 10, 2010 07:21
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A few months ago, I sold my '98 Outback Wagon (5-spd) with 180k for $4000, so it seems like a good deal to me. In that year of car, make sure the Head Gasket has been replaced, and you should be ok.
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Dec 10, 2010 07:33
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