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DropDeadRed posted:Ok... I'm shopping for used table saws and in every case the blade guard is missing. Do people REALLY use these things? The problem being most of them are designed poorly and after taking them off and putting them back on a few times there will be a time when you say, "Just this time I'm going to leave it off." and it will sit in the corner gathering dust. I'm just stating what happens, not suggesting that you buy a saw without a blade guard, but there are aftermarket guards that are better. When it comes to saws the two most important parts are the fence and the motor. Without a solid fence you can never do any precision cutting and without a powerful motor your saw will burn the wood or just not cut. Unless you're a carpenter I would avoid direct drive saws.
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Nov 16, 2010 03:26
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Ampersand-e posted:I've always used 1"X what ever thickness I think I need, glue down the 1/4 round before I cut the pieces and use triangles of 1/2 plywood screwed into the corners next to the 1/4 rounds. Thank you, this set me up perfectly. Juriko posted:...the canvas should not touch the wood anywhere what so ever except for at the edges. Pro stretchers are act will either have had a bevel cut, or have a bead routed around the edge. Anything to put space between the canvas and the stretcher. Thanks. This is for my boss and I think that it will actually be a digital print on canvas. He said we would stretch it by hand and then use a staple gun to attach it on the backside. That sound right? Any tips on attaching the canvas?
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Nov 16, 2010 03:53
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Here's a basic walk-through on stretching canvas prints: How to…. Here's another (more specific) step-by-step for traditional canvas: How to…. With blank canvas, one can compensate for some of the slack in stretching by spraying the canvas with water and/or sizing the surface. There are even products for tightening painted canvas; however, as the first link above points out, liquids could damage a printed image.
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Nov 16, 2010 05:12
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wormil posted:Thank you, this set me up perfectly. If they are just going to stretch a print then you don't have to worry much about the frame contact, other than not wanting anything on the canvas surface side be sticking out (I had a huge canvas that I used screws on, and didn't counter sink one as well as a thought so it showed through. It was minor but annoying). Stapling is fine, it is how most hand stretched canvases get made since the other, fancier options are a huge pain in the rear end and only look better from the back, which no one sees anyways(if you wanted to know you have to route a channel and use piping to basically wedge in the canvas, hard to do by hand). The best way to stretch a canvas and make sure it is smooth is to start from the center on one side and then work opposites, Like this code:The only tricky part is pulling tightly away from the edge and towards the corners, and doing it evenly. As long as you don't rip the canvas by pulling to tight you can just pull out the staples and re-do them if you have any ripples, but if you stretch it like pictured you shouldn't have much of a problem. Also you do not need canvas pliers unless there is not a lot of spare canvas to grip. Not that canvas pliers are really expensive, but it isn't a particularly useful tool if you don't stretch canvases often. If you want a bit of wow factor sand the stretchers(Finished ones look slick too, but then you have to be sure the finish wont damage the canvas). Most stretchers are just raw wood, often even just scrap since us artists are poor/cheap. I had a friend whose father was a woodworker and he made all her canvas frames. He would hit them all with a power sander and did mitered, biscuit joints and I have to say they where awesome to use if only because they felt amazing to grip. when you where using them. Totally unnecessary, but you could tell he took woodworking very seriously no matter how simple the project. It got me to at least start sanding mine lightly.
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Nov 16, 2010 10:52
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wormil posted:The problem being most of them are designed poorly and after taking them off and putting them back on a few times there will be a time when you say, "Just this time I'm going to leave it off." and it will sit in the corner gathering dust. I'm just stating what happens, not suggesting that you buy a saw without a blade guard, but there are aftermarket guards that are better. Yea.. this! I think maybe I'm chasing unicorns somehow here... I would like to buy a 120v driven saw, belt drive, good manufacturer, good fence, all the safety gear including a riving knife... and I want to spend about $500! Canadian that is, in Ottawa. Maybe I'm nuts? Just a cheap bastard? Problem is that I'm just getting started here and while this seems like something that I will really enjoy I can't 100% guarantee that I'm going be a life time wood worker as I haven't made much sawdust yet other than making the L shaped corner desk I'm sitting at right now out of a sheet of plywood and six IKEA metal legs (Nice legs!). This prompted me to buy circular saw, jig saw, router(GOOFED this, bought one that doesn't have the standard 3 hole pattern to connect to a router table.) and 1/3 sheet sander. In the end I got a desk I am happy with plus "level 1 tools" for about what a desk I'd be less happy with would have cost. Yay me! Surprisingly/interestingly, 1/2" roundover on 3/5" plywood actually looks pretty good when stained dark but oh so much sanding. This is the new version of the Craftex contractor saw: http://www.busybeetools.com/products/TABLESAW-CONTRACTORFT-S-10IN.-1.5HP-CSA.html DropDeadRed fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Nov 17, 2010 |
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Nov 17, 2010 02:34
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Having JUST bought a ShopSmith Mark V, it actually seems quite applicable to your needs. They sometimes pop up on Craigslist for really good prices. As a bonus, it flips up vertically and swaps arbor for chuck to become a VERY good woodworking drill press. Also does other poo poo. Just avoid the 500 model, and look at the 510 or 520. As wormil noted, the fence is key, and the 500 has an old-school fence, to put it nicely. But take this with a grain of salt -- I'm new to owning this thing and still learning whether this is a long-term tool for me.
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Nov 17, 2010 03:34
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DropDeadRed posted:... and I want to spend about $500! Double your budget, you'll never regret it. On the budget side I wouldn't look past Grizzly but even one of those will now set you back $800 American. You can do a lot of woodworking with just a circular saw and a good straightedge. I've even tapered table legs with one.
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Nov 17, 2010 03:44
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Cobalt60 posted:Having JUST bought a ShopSmith Mark V, it actually seems quite applicable to your needs. They sometimes pop up on Craigslist for really good prices. As a bonus, it flips up vertically and swaps arbor for chuck to become a VERY good woodworking drill press. Also does other poo poo. You don't say.... http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/tls/2059403830.html I emailed 'em and they confirmed, no, its not a mistake. They did not mean $1000. Too bad I'm into metal. Kinda don't even know what it does.
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Nov 17, 2010 06:17
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That's an awesome price, assuming it works. I'd totally buy it immediately if I was near my (Oregon). I never knew ShopSmith had clones, but if that's a "true" clone, meaning the SS parts fit, you could grab that and just replace the main table (or weld it as the guy suggests). Get a modern sized arbor for the table saw (e.g. 5/8") and you have a table saw, drill press, 12" disc sander, and some other poo poo. Oh yeah and a lathe I guess if you're into that. Oh and where the gently caress is "Space Coast?"
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Nov 17, 2010 08:38
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But its deluded of me to think it would be of any use on metal, right? ...and the space coast is the part of Florida due east of Orlando, where Kennedy Space Center is, and where the shuttle goes up.
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Nov 17, 2010 09:46
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Cobalt60 posted:Having JUST bought a ShopSmith Mark V, it actually seems quite applicable to your needs. They sometimes pop up on Craigslist for really good prices. As a bonus, it flips up vertically and swaps arbor for chuck to become a VERY good woodworking drill press. Also does other poo poo. This just came up for $550... http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLargeImage?AdId=242715430 Looks kinda like ShopSmith mark V?
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Nov 17, 2010 14:20
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DropDeadRed posted:This just came up for $550... That's definitely a Mark V, yeah. The big difference between models 500, 510, and 520 (current) is the main table and sub-table assemblies. This looks like a 510, which is a good thing (anything after 500 is a big improvement). If it was like $400 and really works, I'd say get it, try it out, and if you hate it, just resell it. To clarify, I'm a fan, so far, of this tool. But ONLY at used-level prices. These things are like $3k+ new, which puts them up against way nicer tools. At new prices, it would have to be the perfect dream machine. For some reason, the used market, especially for the older parts, is a great deal in comparison. Also, in many cases, like the jointer and bandsaw, the design is exactly the same as it was in 1955. Edit: No clue on metal work, sorry. For some reason, the idea of cutting metal seems totally not-DIY to me. Cobalt60 fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Nov 17, 2010 |
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Nov 17, 2010 20:06
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Cobalt60 posted:Edit: No clue on metal work, sorry. For some reason, the idea of cutting metal seems totally not-DIY to me. That'd really depend on what kind of metal and what kind of cutting. For instance, with a proper blade, you can cut aluminum and other non-ferrous metals on an ordinary chop saw (done it with aluminum, worked great) or even, if you're feeling ballsy enough, on a table saw (so I hear, personally I wouldn't).
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Nov 17, 2010 21:38
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Bad Munki posted:That'd really depend on what kind of metal and what kind of cutting. For instance, with a proper blade, you can cut aluminum and other non-ferrous metals on an ordinary chop saw (done it with aluminum, worked great) or even, if you're feeling ballsy enough, on a table saw (so I hear, personally I wouldn't). Bah, I cut 1/8" off a hand plane blade with an abrasive wheel on my crappy table saw without too much problem (just went slow). The blade was free and slightly too large for my (also free) #7 jointer
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Nov 18, 2010 00:13
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Well, we will be having to build another barn soon. So it might be a good investment. But, it would be kind of a toxic asset, because my dad (the "trained" engineer) doesn't have that kind of foresight. Do need a drill press. How would the drill press compare to a stand-alone drill press? Could maybe see myself turning some furniture legs or something silly out of these old cedar trees that are dieing in our pasture. Would hate to see them go to waste. Edit: Here's an example. When we built our current barn, we had 1 hammer. Do you have any how much of a pain in the rear end it is to walk all the way across the barn to fetch the hammer? "Dad, I need the hammer." "Hold on, I need to hammer this thing"  Maybe I can teach the dog to fetch the hammer. "Bear, hammer! Hammer, Bear, Hammer!" "Awwww man, this is a ballpeen, stupid dog" (just kidding, I love my dog) whose tuggin fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Nov 18, 2010 |
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Nov 18, 2010 00:42
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Bad Munki posted:That'd really depend on what kind of metal and what kind of cutting. And, I guess, personality. Not sure why but the very idea of precision-cutting metal for any reason other than to destroy it seems... meant for other people. Or just not for me. No clue why.
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Nov 18, 2010 00:56
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You just gotta try it once, then it's no big deal. I went into my first metal-cutting experience with exactly the same notions you seem to have, even as I was lowering the blade to the metal, but I needed to make that cut, so I did, and it was a breeze, and now it seems totally natural. Just make sure you're using the right blades and such and everything'll be fine.  The Scientist posted:Maybe I can teach the dog to fetch the hammer. "Bear, hammer! Hammer, Bear, Hammer!" "Awwww man, this is a ballpeen, stupid dog" (just kidding, I love my dog) I first read this as "Beer! Hammer! Hammer! Beer! Hammer!" as if each word was a subsequent command, and believe me, I fully approved. 
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Nov 18, 2010 04:27
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Hey everyone! I just wanted to pop in, say hello and thanks for this thread! I just started picking up woodworking for the first time since taking shop class in high school, and stumbling on this thread has really helped give me some direction! I almost feel embarrassed to post this after browsing everyone's wicked works of art, but my first project (which I'm stupidly proud of) was knocking together this bench a few weeks ago outta some 2x4s, plywood, a hacksaw, wood glue, a borrowed drill, and lots of blind determination.  Since then I've built a cat tree, a longbow, and a bandsaw box; plus I've been able to pick up a few tools for mad cheap off craigslist, and now I'm looking to start some real woodworking projects. Well, real as I can get for now... unfortunately I'm kind of limited by living in an apartment (I cut everything outside on the patio). Which brings me to ask if anyone has any experience with a small shop air filter, such as this: http://www.amazon.com/DELTA-AP200-Shopmaster-Filtration-System/dp/B00006K008 My bench is in the spare bedroom and using the bandsaw or drill press knocks around just enough dust to be annoying but not overkill. I was just wondering if this, or a similar filter, would be a good idea for cutting down on that, and if it'd be worth it. Thanks in advance!
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Nov 24, 2010 04:09
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OSU_Matthew, is that thing on a carpeted floor? Hellooo bad idea. Nice basics though for the shop. If you want to keep it neat hook a vacuum up to the bandsaw?
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Nov 24, 2010 08:52
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I have a Honda Fit which is great for hauling a lot of small stuff but not so good for lumber that isn't pre cut. I'm looking at getting a Yakima rack for the roof but I thought I would see if anyone in this thread might have a cheeper/better solution.
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Dec 1, 2010 10:58
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If its just a one off, Home Depot rent vans for about $19 for the first hour or so.
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Dec 1, 2010 16:22
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Ampersand-e posted:I have a Honda Fit which is great for hauling a lot of small stuff but not so good for lumber that isn't pre cut. I'm looking at getting a Yakima rack for the roof but I thought I would see if anyone in this thread might have a cheeper/better solution. If you know your measurements ahead of time you can get 4x8 sheets of whatever you are buying ripped to size for free at Lowes and HD. That has come in handy a few times. What is also a lot of fun is seeing the look of peoples faces when you stuff a ton of 10 foot long boards in your 18 year old 2-door Accord.. and manage to close the trunk.
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Dec 1, 2010 19:51
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I rented a small local Uhaul for $20 + mileage with no time limit. Uhaul is right next to my lumberyard which is only a couple of miles from my house, so it made more sense than the hourly rate to me. I spent a couple of hours getting the wood for several projects. I've got a roof rack for my TSX, but I was dubious about putting several hundred pounds of wood on a roof not designed for it. If you've got a trailer hitch, you can rent a 5x8 utility trailer for a flat fee with no mileage or time charges.
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Dec 2, 2010 14:08
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So has anyone been making anything? Or are you just doing the same thing I'm doing.. slowly acquiring tools, but not having any time to make things with them.
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Dec 7, 2010 23:21
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Carta posted:If you know your measurements ahead of time you can get 4x8 sheets of whatever you are buying ripped to size for free at Lowes and HD. That has come in handy a few times. Danger: not only is the lumber lovely for anything requiring flat surfaces, but trusting the mongoloids who work there to cut anything accurately is dangerous. Even at lumber places.. I remember getting a sheet cut to fit in my ex's car at a nice lumber place, I added on plenty outside the cuts knowing they wouldn't get close to accurate and the rip was totally diagonal, like 2"+ travel randomly. Idiots 
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Dec 8, 2010 00:00
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Carta posted:So has anyone been making anything? Or are you just doing the same thing I'm doing.. slowly acquiring tools, but not having any time to make things with them. Well, I was out of state from May till about mid November. Then I had to clean a billion cobwebs and dust out of the house. Then do the same in the shop. But a few days ago I fired up my wine tilt/pens and stoppers threads. I figured since I'm not doing anything "new" there wasn't much point in posting them. Osage   Rosewood with Sapwood  Spalted Maple 304 or “18/8″ FDA solid stainless steel   Bocote  Maple Burl/Curly Maple 
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Dec 8, 2010 00:08
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What I wouldn't give to have access to 1/4 of the variety of wood you have. Around here it's all your typical Canadian Shield fare of softwoods and hardwoods with big boring grains. None of that smaller intricate stuff that looks good on a small scale. Whatever grain, knots, burls I find only looks good if you're making a floor or a table.
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Dec 8, 2010 17:24
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Newbie "woodworker" here. Actually, I haven't really built anything yet, but since I just got married and moved into a new house, we want to try and build a lot of our simple furniture so I've been doing a lot of research. As for tools all I have now are a corded DeWalt drill and reciprocating saw that I needed for some other projects. That said, I've decided my weekend project will be to build a simple workbench. I've found numerous plans online, but does anyone have a simple design they would recommend? For the top, I'm convinced of using a solid-core wood door. But the base is where I'm looking for ideas, there are just so many ways to built it. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.
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Dec 8, 2010 23:58
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The Wormy Guy posted:That said, I've decided my weekend project will be to build a simple workbench. I've found numerous plans online, but does anyone have a simple design they would recommend? For the top, I'm convinced of using a solid-core wood door. But the base is where I'm looking for ideas, there are just so many ways to built it. Any help and suggestions would be appreciated. I built the one sold here and I'm very happy with it: http://www.amazon.com/2x4basics-90164-Workbench-Shelving-Storage/dp/B0030T1BRE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1291852810&sr=8-1 It was extremely easy to put together and with a 3/4" plywood top it's sturdy as hell and very customizable to make it fit whatever space you've got available. All you need is a drill/driver and a saw.
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Dec 9, 2010 01:02
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Blistex posted:What I wouldn't give to have access to 1/4 of the variety of wood you have. Around here it's all your typical Canadian Shield fare of softwoods and hardwoods with big boring grains. None of that smaller intricate stuff that looks good on a small scale. Whatever grain, knots, burls I find only looks good if you're making a floor or a table. I've gotten most of my interesting stuff from the internet. These days location isn't really a limiting factor, only money.
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Dec 9, 2010 01:15
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ChaoticSeven posted:I've gotten most of my interesting stuff from the internet. These days location isn't really a limiting factor, only money. What I wouldn't give to have money for wood. (I freeze all winter whilst starving)
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Dec 9, 2010 01:43
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The Wormy Guy posted:Newbie "woodworker" here. Actually, I haven't really built anything yet, but since I just got married and moved into a new house, we want to try and build a lot of our simple furniture so I've been doing a lot of research. As for tools all I have now are a corded DeWalt drill and reciprocating saw that I needed for some other projects. I recently built one out of a solid door. It rests on a ledger lagged to the studs and the legs are simply two 2x4s cut to fit and secured from the top with a long screw. Solid bench and a no brainer to build
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Dec 9, 2010 03:55
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The Wormy Guy posted:That said, I've decided my weekend project will be to build a simple workbench. If you want to use hand tools, then having a "proper" workbench will be of greater benefit than it would be to someone focused on using power tools. By "proper" I mean any of the French/English/German benches of which there are plans but no vendors. No storebought bench I know of has enough mass or sturdiness imho. Look for Chris Schwarz's "Workbenches" or his later "The Workbench Design Book". http://www.woodworkersbookshop.com/product/workbenches http://www.woodworkersbookshop.com/product/the-workbench-design-book/ My opinion is that Schwarz is one of the best woodworking authors around, but "Popular Woodworking Magazine" is a pale pale shadow of what "Woodworking Magazine" was because Schwarz, Huey, and Lang are editing more and writing less in order to get more issues out the door (Woodworking Magazine was quarterly). If you just want to do power tool based woodworking, then I echo the suggestions to find a solid core door. The materials section on craigslist is a great place to start.
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Dec 9, 2010 05:18
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Thanks all. I found a good plan that uses a solid door and it seems pretty sturdy. To the poster above, I'll be using this for power tools rather than hand tools. I'll post up some pictures when I'm done.
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Dec 10, 2010 00:51
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Not an Anthem posted:Danger: not only is the lumber lovely for anything requiring flat surfaces, but trusting the mongoloids who work there to cut anything accurately is dangerous. Even at lumber places.. I remember getting a sheet cut to fit in my ex's car at a nice lumber place, I added on plenty outside the cuts knowing they wouldn't get close to accurate and the rip was totally diagonal, like 2"+ travel randomly. Idiots I never has a problem with sheet goods there, but I seriously hover around watching them measure, which might be a dick move but the other option is that they gently caress up and make them cut me a new sheet.
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Dec 11, 2010 03:40
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ChaoticSeven posted:These are all beautiful and it brings up a question. I'm currently replacing some of the console panels in a classic car with burl walnut veneered ones. I've made the panels and laminated the veneer myself, but I've not been able to get a high gloss mirror-flat finish like that. I'm actually starting over on a second set thanks to messing up the first. Previously I used a brush-on high gloss polyeurethane.What would your suggestion be for a super high gloss finish that will withstand being in a car? How do Merc, Rolls, Jag, et al do it so that they get such a perfectly mirrored finish over real wood? Right now I have the panels ready for the shellac, which I didn't do before. Once they're sealed I'm hoping I can get the right advice this time. EDIT: Like this, but all flat panels and not so gaudy. 
McMadCow fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 17:14
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McMadCow posted:These are all beautiful and it brings up a question. I'm currently replacing some of the console panels in a classic car with burl walnut veneered ones. I've made the panels and laminated the veneer myself, but I've not been able to get a high gloss mirror-flat finish like that. I'm actually starting over on a second set thanks to messing up the first. In my opinion, hand polished lacquer finishes are the only way to go.
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Dec 13, 2010 17:25
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MarshallX posted:In my opinion, hand polished lacquer finishes are the only way to go. Cool, thanks. And that would also be durable enough to hold up to car duty?
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Dec 13, 2010 17:31
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McMadCow posted:Cool, thanks. And that would also be durable enough to hold up to car duty? My coffee table with the same finish holds up well to feet, paper, laptops, drinks, etc so I'm sure it would be fine. You can buff it up to whatever gloss you like. I'm sure there will be more opinions posted, however.
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Dec 13, 2010 17:33
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MarshallX posted:My coffee table with the same finish holds up well to feet, paper, laptops, drinks, etc so I'm sure it would be fine. You can buff it up to whatever gloss you like. Awesome, do you have a brand/formulation you like? I assume paint on, right? And is shellac a compatible sealer for it? The only high-gloss finishes I've done in the past have been auto finishes and I'm trying to avoid that because I don't have a paint booth.
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Dec 13, 2010 17:38
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