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Jerk McJerkface posted:Hahaha, well, she just quit her job because we're having our first child, so money is extremely tight. Also, I don't consider making a several thousand dollar purchase with out consulting my wife as something "manly." I just told my wife I thought we needed a practical second car so that she had one to drive around in while I was at work and so that we had a backup car in case my daily driver broke. When she didn't immediately disagree I impulsively bought a 17 year old German luxury car. Jokes on her, the practical car was the 96' Maxima we already had which is now hers.
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Dec 10, 2010 15:41
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8ender posted:I just told my wife I thought we needed a practical second car so that she had one to drive around in while I was at work and so that we had a backup car in case my daily driver broke. When she didn't immediately disagree I impulsively bought a 17 year old German luxury car. Jokes on her, the practical car was the 96' Maxima we already had which is now hers. Nice. We're having a son (she was due yesterday, but nothing yet), and I really want him to be handy, so the E30 will be a project car for the two of us. She really like that idea.
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Dec 10, 2010 15:56
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Trying to think of valid reasons not to put a deposit down on a 1M.
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Dec 10, 2010 16:18
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I really, really enjoy my 128 and I can't imagine how much loving fun the same platform would be with more power and totally reworked everything.
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Dec 10, 2010 16:19
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Jorsh posted:Trying to think of valid reasons not to put a deposit down on a 1M. Depreciation. Buy an E30 M3 and you don't have to worry much about that. Also, so much easier to park with 80s pillars.
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Dec 10, 2010 18:10
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Would like your opinion. I just made an offer of $7000 + 1999 Sunfire w/ 96,XXX miles on it. http://nashville.craigslist.org/ctd/2103378864.html Too low? Too high? Test drove the vehicle yesterday and it was in very decent shape. Would be my first BMW.
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Dec 10, 2010 18:21
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Well I don't think a 1999 J body is worth $3900, so if they accept your trade then its a pretty good price!
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Dec 10, 2010 18:41
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Just something to keep in mind, the badges on the trunk are offset from where they should be. They look a little too high and to the right. That's a good sign the car had some sort of body work done on the rear end. Not sure if it matters to you, but I just noticed it when looking at the pictures.
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Dec 10, 2010 23:33
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Yeah, the trunk paint looks a bit different. Seller says there's no accident history though.
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Dec 11, 2010 01:06
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Jorsh posted:Trying to think of valid reasons not to put a deposit down on a 1M. Because it's a turdlet. Buy an E30 M3 daily driver, have fun, call it a day, save $30k.
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Dec 11, 2010 02:45
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nyuck nyuck I've actually been shopping for an E30 M3 but I don't know if I'm at the point in my life where I want to drop 15k or more on a 22 year old car.
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Dec 11, 2010 02:48
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I'd like to know whether or not the 1M is worth more than the $300 you can spend on a JB3 for a 130i.
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Dec 11, 2010 03:12
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My '94 325i just started making a horrific screeching noise when I start it up, that goes away after just a few seconds, but repeats it everytime I've started the car up today. Any suggestions on where to start looking?
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Dec 11, 2010 04:05
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I'm going to look at a 2000 528i 5 speed with every intention to buy it. I need something that doesn't get the 12.5mpg of my pickup. It's got 149k miles on it. Any model/year specific problem areas that I should be looking for?
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Dec 11, 2010 04:28
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Rakekniven posted:My '94 325i just started making a horrific screeching noise when I start it up, that goes away after just a few seconds, but repeats it everytime I've started the car up today. Any suggestions on where to start looking? accessory belts
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Dec 11, 2010 04:49
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vettenyy posted:I'm going to look at a 2000 528i 5 speed with every intention to buy it. I need something that doesn't get the 12.5mpg of my pickup. It's got 149k miles on it. E39s are pretty solid cars as long as you don't buy a 540 auto. Check out the E39 buyers guide. (5mb pdf)
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Dec 11, 2010 06:29
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Maybe a NA high strung 4 cylinder, and a bit of a diet would make them comparable. I don't see a future RWD BMW getting lighter than the 1 M. I also don't know if BMW thinks there's a market for a revvy 4 now. In other words, the E30 M3 is never coming back  .
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Dec 11, 2010 06:36
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Don't want to abuse so this will be my last "advice" post. http://is.gd/iyro7 - 2001 330Ci Went in and looked at the car yesterday and it's in great shape. The previous owner put an amazing set of brand new wheels on it and it's rust free. The interior is a little beat up, but doable. I offered him $7K with a '99 Sunfire trade-in that kbb's for around $1000. The lowest he countered with was $8900 while giving me $2500 trade-in value on an old Pontiac with 96,000 miles on it. Yeah. Here's my predicament. I don't have a lot of money for repairs down the line so it'd be bad if something major goes out within 3-5 months. I'm skirting the line between "you should know better" and getting something I've wanted for 13 years. The "don't get it" line of thinking comes mainly from people telling me that BMW parts (for the car I want) are really expensive. I've checked out bavarianautosports.com and am not sure what to think. We have the money to buy this car outright. We don't have the money for thousands in repairs on a regular basis. So, should I back away from used BMWs in general because of maintenance costs, or can this really be seen as an, "investment?" Oh, and is that a good price for the BMW?
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Dec 11, 2010 14:20
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manchego posted:Don't want to abuse so this will be my last "advice" post. I would keep looking for BMWs if you want one, but that one just isn't that great a price. The maintenance costs aren't THAT much especially if you can do most of it yourself. 90% of the time, labor is the most expensive part of getting car repairs/maintenance done so if you can't turn a wrench or read a manual I wouldn't go with a BMW.
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Dec 11, 2010 14:30
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Brain Issues posted:I would keep looking for BMWs if you want one, but that one just isn't that great a price. The maintenance costs aren't THAT much especially if you can do most of it yourself. 90% of the time, labor is the most expensive part of getting car repairs/maintenance done so if you can't turn a wrench or read a manual I wouldn't go with a BMW. Gotcha. I keep getting a big range of numbers. What is a great price for an early E46 with 100,000 miles on it?
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Dec 11, 2010 14:35
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For the miles, it's not a terrible price though. I purchased a 2004 330ci 6mt with 57k (clean title, no accidents) for 13k. Going to pick it up next week!
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Dec 11, 2010 17:14
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destructo posted:For the miles, it's not a terrible price though. I purchased a 2004 330ci 6mt with 57k (clean title, no accidents) for 13k. Going to pick it up next week!  I got a 2005 with 53k last Tuesday. What a fun car. I spent like 5 hours detailing it yesterday so I'll post some pics soon.Question: should I get the custom plate "PRCUPNE" ?
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Dec 11, 2010 17:23
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manchego posted:Gotcha. 98.5 323i with 100k will run you $6k. You want a 2001+ 330i though (more power + better fuel mileage - subframe tearout) and you'll be looking at between $9k and $15k, depending on year and condition. E46s have some unique issues, and as I've articulated in this thread many times, if you plant to keep the car for more than 6 months, you will want to perform a couple thousand dollars of maintenance to it upfront (depending on how much documented maintenance history comes with the car): - cooling system (radiator, expansion tank, water pump, thermostat and housing, accessory belts, fresh antifreeze, sensors) = $500 from Turner Motorsport - oil de-sludge kit from Auto-Rx (unless you have proof that all the previous owners did oil changes well ahead of the recommended interval) - suspension bushings and if you want to be really complete, new shocks and struts too Depending on if you're getting the work done for you or DIY, your budget will vary wildly from $1500 to $2500. Regardless, you should consider these costs as investments in a long, happy life with your car. Particularly after the suspension refresh, you can have a car that feels absolutely new. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 18:56
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Sterndotstern posted:98.5 323i with 100k will run you $6k. Exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. I really appreciate it Sterndotstern.
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Dec 11, 2010 19:07
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Fun BMW horror story. My boss (who owns a sexy 99 318i) was talking with some business friends and one was complaining about what a piece of poo poo awful car his BMW had been. He had bought a used 2005 X3 and after a little over a year the engine suddenly seized. Now at this point my boss was figuring this poor guy really did get a bad BMW or something. He then goes on to tell her that the engine had seized after it was driven for around 20,000kms without an oil change. Why was the X3 a piece of poo poo? According to this guy because it didn't warn him that it needed an oil change. He said he was considering suing BMW to replace the engine for free because, in his words, they "designed it to fail without warning". 
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Dec 11, 2010 19:21
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manchego posted:Exactly the kind of advice I was looking for. I really appreciate it Sterndotstern. Happy to help, I really like your type of cheese.
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Dec 11, 2010 19:26
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Anyone have any input on this: http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1989-BMW-325is-e30_13523300 The recent mods were all stuff I would have intended to do with a recent e30 purchase. The fixes needed don't seem too insurmountable (or maybe I'm wrong).
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Dec 12, 2010 00:52
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So I finally got around to replacing the leaky valve cover gasket and spark plugs on my 02 e46.... And created a loving misfire in the process. I hate that poo poo. Any tips for seating the plugs firmly in the plug boots to fix this poo poo?
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Dec 12, 2010 01:35
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The Amputee House posted:Anyone have any input on this: http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1989-BMW-325is-e30_13523300 It always bothers me when folks cannot do the less than $30 fixes like recharging AC themselves when they have done so much other stuff to the car. AC may not mean much to you up north, but here in the dirty south I would factor in a completely new AC unit when someone tells me it "just needs a recharge." Price seems pretty high anyway.
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Dec 14, 2010 01:40
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The Amputee House posted:Anyone have any input on this: http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1989-BMW-325is-e30_13523300 I wouldn't pay more than $4000 for a BMW older than 1996 unless it had the letter "M" in the model number or was a Vorshlag E30 V8 transplant. Even if you have to buy a one way ticket to Dallas to buy a reasonably priced BMW and drive it home, it's still cheaper, you'll have a vastly newer car, and is going to have less rust.
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Dec 14, 2010 05:46
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Taco Box posted:So I finally got around to replacing the leaky valve cover gasket and spark plugs on my 02 e46.... And created a loving misfire in the process. I hate that poo poo. Any tips for seating the plugs firmly in the plug boots to fix this poo poo? Figured it out... The plug boots click onto the coil pack. Not pushing any further once they click was the trick.
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Dec 14, 2010 14:43
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I just found my dream car but don't have any money (Or space to actually work on the car when something inevitably goes wrong, but who cares about that right now). 1995 M3 coupe Black on Black 5 speed 130k and only $4800 Someday... someday... 
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Dec 14, 2010 15:36
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Gripen5 posted:I just found my dream car but don't have any money (Or space to actually work on the car when something inevitably goes wrong, but who cares about that right now). That price its nothing special, and 95 m3s are easily the worst year of e36 m3 in the us.
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Dec 14, 2010 18:36
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BraveUlysses posted:That price its nothing special, and 95 m3s are easily the worst year of e36 m3 in the us. Well, that is good to know. What year E36 should I be aiming for? It may be another year or two at least before I can even consider one. Is it worth saving a little more and going with an E46? Also, my plan was to make this a sort of learning project for myself. Would I just be better off going with the E36 because it is older, cheaper, and presumably simpler and easier to learn on? I was originally just going to go with a 325is, but after seeing M3s aren't THAT expensive, I might have to go with an M series. But then again, I'm sure parts are quite expensive.
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Dec 14, 2010 19:12
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Gripen5 posted:Well, that is good to know. What year E36 should I be aiming for? Counterpoint to the above: this is a great price on a car that is utterly competent and, if well maintained, will be absolutely as enjoyable as you can get. At that price point, there is little-to-no reason not to get the M. Price premium in parts or upfront cost is modest enough. And if you're planning to drive in a spirited fashion or track the car at all, the '95 M3 is absolutely the best choice you can make because it is sure to have a limited slip diff and good power, but is cheap enough that you won't ruin yourself if you have an on-track incident. An E36 M3 will pound the living poo poo out of any non-M E46 in any kind of track event thanks to the diff and weight differences. E36 M3s are dead nuts reliable to 250-300k miles if you listen to advice about some preventative maintenance. The interior glues are some mid-90s version of "green" products and suck, causing lots of trim and stuff to age badly. All mid-to-late 90s German cars are afflicted with this, hence the sarcastic "Superior German Adhesives" line you see bantered about AI. Regardless of what year E36 you're going to buy, you'll have to put some money into it -- $1500 is my minimum recommended post-purchase budget -- or buy a demonstrably well maintained and likely more expensive example. Depending on how much labor you can do yourself, $1500 will buy you: - a new cooling system and accessory belts(must do) - new suspension & subframe bushings (highly recommended, cheap parts) - shocks and springs (optional but will improve the car enormously) If you take my advice and refresh these three systems, you will have a wonderfully competent daily drivable, trackable, take-four-people-able car that will last you years. As far as the specific 95 vs 96+ differences: - 95 M3s have a slightly smaller displacement motor. The engine size was bumped from 3.0 to 3.2L in 1996 to offset the extra catalytic converters added with switch to OBD-II emissions. - 95 M3s don't come with the pre-drilled holes for an underchassis X-brace, meaning you have to install some nutserts yourself to install one (overrated forumsperg mod anyway) - 95 M3s have slightly different suspension bushings and spring tophats That's basically it.
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Dec 14, 2010 20:12
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Sterndotstern posted:An E36 M3 will pound the living poo poo out of any non-M E46 in any kind of track event thanks to the diff and weight differences. Just a quick note: There is only a 40lb difference between an M3 sedan and an E46 330i. An E46 ZHP will accelerate just as fast as an e36 M3, the only difference being the diff.
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Dec 14, 2010 20:36
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Sterndotstern posted:Counterpoint to the above: this is a great price on a car that is utterly competent and, if well maintained, will be absolutely as enjoyable as you can get. At that price point, there is little-to-no reason not to get the M. Price premium in parts or upfront cost is modest enough. And if you're planning to drive in a spirited fashion or track the car at all, the '95 M3 is absolutely the best choice you can make because it is sure to have a limited slip diff and good power, but is cheap enough that you won't ruin yourself if you have an on-track incident. An E36 M3 will pound the living poo poo out of any non-M E46 in any kind of track event thanks to the diff and weight differences. I appreciate your knowledge. I am definitely not looking for a track vehicle. But I will definitely be driving it rather spirited. I think the reason I really like the M series over the 325 is the engine is so much better. Maybe I am just too used to more modern HP and torque numbers, but the 325 just seems so pedestrian in comparison and I was hoping for some extra boost in a strait line (although I'm sure they both handle great around the turns). Also, I should note, I am thinking of this as a second vehicle, where really its going to be more of a hobby or learning tool more than anything else. Although I may use it sometimes to drive to work, I can't be without my car for even a day or two, so if I plan on learning how to fix something for the first time, I may need a few days to do it. I will certainly make sure to budge an extra $1,500 or more before making a purchase though.
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Dec 14, 2010 20:44
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ozziegt posted:Just a quick note: There is only a 40lb difference between an M3 sedan and an E46 330i. An E46 ZHP will accelerate just as fast as an e36 M3, the only difference being the diff. Sorta kinda, having owned and tracked both I can tell you without a doubt, that an E36 M3 will absolutely DESTROY any non-M E46 on a track to the tune of 1-3 seconds/lap on a 1.5 mile course. The diff makes a huge difference, even more so during an autocross. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 14, 2010 |
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Dec 14, 2010 20:48
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Sterndotstern posted:E36 stuff What about the rear subframe issues? I will concede that it's a rare occurrence (especially in non-M E36s) but I would want to make damned sure that the mount points aren't tearing/torn before I buy a car, seeing as it would be a couple grand to fix if you aren't good with a welder.
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Dec 14, 2010 21:00
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Sterndotstern posted:Sorta kinda, having owned and tracked both I can tell you without a doubt, that an E36 M3 will absolutely DESTROY any non-M E46 on a track to the tune of 1-3 seconds/lap on a 1.5 mile course. The diff makes a huge difference, even more so during an autocross. As someone who owned a 330ci and has driven a US castration-spec E36 M3 a few times, I concur. Even with the German joke* under the bonnet, it's a much "sportier" (sorry) car. Buy one with the mustard/dakar yellow/whatever they call it leather interior for extra  As far as the subframe, has anyone ever come up with hard figures on how common this is? I suspect that, dedicated track use excepted, this is one of those ideas that, thanks to the internets, every "enthusiast" fears but only 0.0001% of them will ever actually experience. * You can tell - no-one's laughing.
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Dec 14, 2010 21:08
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