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OK well the water pump is going to cost me $560, installed. That's fine I'm at the point of not caring just fix my car. But... My local VW service people are being complete dicks again as usual. The garage that is doing my water pump had to call the local VW place with a simple question to make sure he ordered the correct pump. They said they would call him right back. They didn't and a day goes by. He calls VW again and I guess who ever he talked to finally did answer his question, but was just a huge rear end in a top hat about the whole thing. I think it was simply "Here's the VIN #... does that engine take this pump, or that one?" I realize that VW service shops probably aren't that happy about helping other non-VW people fix "their" cars... but drat, what about just being professional? I have been to 4 different VW service shops approx. 10-12 times in the 8 years I have had the car. Every single time, (except once) I have taken my car in to them for anything more than an oil change it has been an unpleasent experience... and even some of the oil changes were more problematic than they should have been. And then the 3 or 4 times that other garages have had to call them to order a part, or ask a simple question, they have been treated so badly and just flat out rudely that they practically beg me to write a letter of complaint to corporate just so they can back me up on it. The general sentiment is always, "Sorry it took longer to get back to you than I promised but those VW guys are just assholes. I just don't understand it." And if it was just once I'd say ok anyone can have a bad day, but this is multiple times over 8 years. So the question... is since I have had problems in the past, is my VIN # red flagged as a "problem customer", and is that red flag shared between VW garages? So that every time my VIN # pops up on their screen they just say gently caress that guy. And I'm sure VW doesn't train it's people to purposely be unhelpful to any 3rd party garage right? my1999gsr - You have been a great help to me here. Does VW know you give out free advice? and are they cool with that? That sounds like a really dumb question, but with my experiences I really have to wonder. Really a great car, 8 years, 168,000 miles, this past year being the only really major, expensive problems, but never again will I deal in any way with VW.
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Dec 10, 2010 21:26
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This morning my TDI was being grumpy. It was 32 degrees and it started then died before reaching idle. I may have let off the starter a bit too early but I did give it plenty of time for the glow plugs to finish doing their thing. After the first failed start it took a few more starts before it would hold an idle. Perhaps a cylinder just had a bit of liquid fuel in it and that was messing it up? Even though I am used to diesel engines not liking the cold, the car and engine only has 4400 miles on them. Should I be concerned? Also should I go ahead and get an oil change at 5k miles? I drive pretty short trips mileage wise but I am in the dc metro so 10 miles is 30 minutes. The manual only lists 10k service intervals so I am at a bit of a loss. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 04:28
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CaptBubba posted:This morning my TDI was being grumpy. It was 32 degrees and it started then died before reaching idle. I may have let off the starter a bit too early but I did give it plenty of time for the glow plugs to finish doing their thing. After the first failed start it took a few more starts before it would hold an idle. Perhaps a cylinder just had a bit of liquid fuel in it and that was messing it up? My TDI did exactly the same thing this afternoon at the same temperature. I had to hold the throttle up for a bit until it would smooth out and idle. Strangely it started up just fine the other day at -15 Celsius (5 in your moon temperatures). I was thinking that I might have got some non-winter treated diesel at my last fill up? Does that even make sense?
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Dec 11, 2010 05:24
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DippingBird posted:My TDI did exactly the same thing this afternoon at the same temperature. I had to hold the throttle up for a bit until it would smooth out and idle. Strangely it started up just fine the other day at -15 Celsius (5 in your moon temperatures). I was thinking that I might have got some non-winter treated diesel at my last fill up? Does that even make sense? That's what really confused me as it has fired right up earlier in the week at colder temperatures without any hesitation and on the same tank of fuel. If it were a fuel gelling problem from non-winter diesel then it would be much worse at lower temperatures. Maybe there is just some narrow band of temperatures and conditions where the computer doesn't apply quite enough fuel or glow at start?
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Dec 11, 2010 06:09
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CaptBubba posted:This morning my TDI was being grumpy. It was 32 degrees and it started then died before reaching idle. I may have let off the starter a bit too early but I did give it plenty of time for the glow plugs to finish doing their thing. After the first failed start it took a few more starts before it would hold an idle. Perhaps a cylinder just had a bit of liquid fuel in it and that was messing it up? Nope, sounds like wax. Get additive in there.
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Dec 11, 2010 09:11
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FrankeeFrankFrank posted:OK well the water pump is going to cost me $560, installed. That's fine I'm at the point of not caring just fix my car. Some answers... There's no customer/vehicle red flagging policy that I'm aware of - I know that our dealership doesn't have one. We know who the more... Odd customers are (believe me, with VW there's LOTS of those) but we try to help them just like anyone else. Generally, we (as technicians and parts advisors) don't go out of our way to help other shops unless we know them well but we DO try to help individual customers if they call or drop by and ask for help. My pay scale is unique at my shop because I'm the guy that usually gets called on to help customers in the parking lot/waiting area or on the phone which I generally don't mind. Something else to keep in mind: all the VW dealerships may have different parts look-up software and some of it is TERRIBLE and that may be part of the reason for some of your parts difficulties - I can't even estimate how much of my work day is spent in the parts dept going over diagrams with my parts advisors to make sure the right thing gets ordered. Does VW/Audi know I give out free advice? No. If they did I'd be in a great deal of trouble - that's just the way VAG corporate is and that's why I don't specifically mention where I work. I hope that the information I'm able to share here in some way mitigates the frustration some of our customers have. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 15:28
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CaptBubba posted:This morning my TDI was being grumpy. It was 32 degrees and it started then died before reaching idle. I may have let off the starter a bit too early but I did give it plenty of time for the glow plugs to finish doing their thing. After the first failed start it took a few more starts before it would hold an idle. Perhaps a cylinder just had a bit of liquid fuel in it and that was messing it up? It's not always a question of the ambient temperature when you start the car. It's a combination of factors like fuel quality, how fast the car went from operating temperature at shut-down to fully cold, condition of fuel filter, etc. The newer common-rail diesels have been very good cold weather cars but we still advise a diesel fuel additive when the temps get very low.
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Dec 11, 2010 15:35
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my1999gsr posted:Does VW/Audi know I give out free advice? No. If they did I'd be in a great deal of trouble - that's just the way VAG corporate is and that's why I don't specifically mention where I work. I hope that the information I'm able to share here in some way mitigates the frustration some of our customers have. You're not giving out free advice, you're using social media marketing to improve the brand's image.
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Dec 11, 2010 16:45
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BonzoESC posted:You're not giving out free advice, you're using social media marketing to improve the brand's image. I suppose you could say that but I really don't care for any of the VAG brands and I really don't want to promote them or improve their image. Since I have access to some information that most VW owners don't and I'm VW & Audi trained and certified, I started this thread to help the average owner navigate through the vast amount of incorrect information that seems to surround VAG vehicles. On the whole, I have serious doubts that one SA thread will help or hinder any brand - I'm only trying to help the people that ask for it.
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Dec 11, 2010 17:06
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my1999gsr posted:I suppose you could say that but I really don't care for any of the VAG brands and I really don't want to promote them or improve their image. Since I have access to some information that most VW owners don't and I'm VW & Audi trained and certified, I started this thread to help the average owner navigate through the vast amount of incorrect information that seems to surround VAG vehicles. 
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Dec 11, 2010 17:09
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 Any idea on what part number those little plastic fin things/outside of foglight is attached to and how much its going to cost to replace? schindler.xls fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 17:29
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my1999gsr posted:Look at all the output seals on the axles and prop shaft - they love to leak fluid, especially in a vehicle of that age. Look closely at the brake flex lines too - they tend to dry-crack. Have a close look at the front suspension upper links - they've long been a weak point so check for play in them or listen closely when you go over bumps. What engine is in it? Heh, going through this again today (sorry if i'm being a huge pest). This A4 has a bit over 150k but the guy seems like a competent mechanic and has replaced in the last month: - Timing belt / tensioner - Crank cover gasket / crank seal - Water Pump - Valve Cover Gaskets - Cam Seals - All new struts - Upper control arms (front) - PCV hose/air pump - ABS Module (repaired) - Rear Wheel Bearings - Platinum Spark Plugs - New Wires Dietcokefiend went and took it for a drive last night for me. I've been doing a crapton of reading about these cars and while it seems like they can have some issues go wrong, if you are anal about maintenance (and replace the timing belt and tensioner early) then things should go pretty smooth. I mean, I figure if I get this car to 220k it will have been a solid investment.
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Dec 11, 2010 19:44
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That's great that they did the control arms too. Those are fairly expensive and they go bad on every A4. Good luck with it, they are really nice cars when everything is working as it should. Just make sure the climate control (if they had it in 96) display works correctly, you probably came across some people that had problems with them if you are reading a lot about A4s. e: Oh, yea. Check under the battery to make sure the drain isn't plugged. If it is make SURE to check under the passenger side carpet to see if it is wet. The computer for the transmission is under there and after it gets wet enough times its destroys the computer. Also check to make sure that the transmission isn't slipping going into 2nd gear mine had a problem with that at only 58k miles. shy boy from chess club fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 20:01
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mediaphage posted:Heh, going through this again today (sorry if i'm being a huge pest). This A4 has a bit over 150k but the guy seems like a competent mechanic and has replaced in the last month: About the only thing I'd suggest aside from all the repairs you have listed is to check the condition of the exhaust flex joints just after the exhaust manifolds - they tend to get weak over time as well. It looks like the current owner has taken good care of the car (most people with A4s of that age don't bother to repair the ABS module due to cost) so it's a good sign. It's easy to tell if the drain under the battery has been fixed - shine a flashlight on the right tie rod and follow it back to the steering rack. The drain will be a smallish black rubber cone pointing down at the body of the steering rack. Someone may have removed the drain at some point which is for the better - the water flows out much easier once the rubber drain has been discarded.
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Dec 11, 2010 20:16
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My drain was clogged with leaves and such though. I bet that one is clean though because your right, that car was actually taken care of.
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Dec 11, 2010 20:23
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Drove the car again today. Has a wicked shudder when doing most turns. Anywhere from 50% or 100% lock it vibrates pretty bad enough to shake the entire car. I know some might be normal for a AWD/4WD car.. but that much? Also cruise didn't work.
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Dec 11, 2010 23:51
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my1999gsr posted:I suppose you could say that but I really don't care for any of the VAG brands and I really don't want to promote them or improve their image. Since I have access to some information that most VW owners don't and I'm VW & Audi trained and certified, I started this thread to help the average owner navigate through the vast amount of incorrect information that seems to surround VAG vehicles. I get exactly where you're coming from. Thanks again for taking on some stewardship of this bit of the VW customer base.
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Dec 12, 2010 07:09
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Not necessarily VW related I guess, but I got my car back after suspension was fixed and alignment done, but it still pulls to the right a bit when I accelerate. It's not too bad and wouldn't say it's unsafe, the car just starts to drift to the right when it's pointed straight and accelerating. Should I take it to the shop and ask them to recheck alignment? My rear tires are still pretty much brand new, don't know how that might affect anything (and my front left bearing was replaced).
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Dec 12, 2010 08:49
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Autism Sundae posted:Not necessarily VW related I guess, but I got my car back after suspension was fixed and alignment done, but it still pulls to the right a bit when I accelerate. It's not too bad and wouldn't say it's unsafe, the car just starts to drift to the right when it's pointed straight and accelerating. torque steer?
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Dec 12, 2010 09:12
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I haven't noticed it before.. and GTI isn't really that powerful. It also steers itself to the right, I would assume with torque steer it could be in either direction but not to one side all the time.
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Dec 12, 2010 10:12
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I think torque steer is always to one side. My 98 Jetta TDI always pulls to the right under hard acceleration (insert low HP joke here). I could be wrong though.
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Dec 12, 2010 11:08
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Ok obscure question that some of you VW geniuses might know: I just started reading on some different VW forums about how the headlights function in the US MKVI GTI and I have a question. I understand how the FTP light doesn't work by default in our car because of the DRL operation, but I want to know if it's possible to program via VAG-COM so that my fog lights and city lights, or even just city lights are on instead of the regular Xenon low beam as per the DRL default, preferably without a euro switch. I would also like the ability to have fogs on only but it sounds like that requires a euro switch. http://golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66060&highlight=city+light+ftp Here is a thread that describes the difference, although on a MKV GTI.
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Dec 12, 2010 11:37
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Autism Sundae posted:I haven't noticed it before.. and GTI isn't really that powerful. It also steers itself to the right, I would assume with torque steer it could be in either direction but not to one side all the time. I used to get torque steer on my 115hp/135ftlb Cavalier so a GTI of any generation should have no problem causing it, especially the Mk6. Does it happen if you accelerate slowly? It's possible your suspension/alignment was always somewhat "off" and you just noticed it now that it's been returned to spec and removed some of the slop. I've seen cars leave the dealership with mangled alignments because the dealer didn't do a proper PDI. What happens if you set the steering wheel to neutral and roll forward in neutral (try it in gear, too) while letting go of the steering wheel on a flat (and abandoned) parking lot? Does the car only change heading under acceleration? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Dec 12, 2010 |
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Dec 12, 2010 17:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Torque steer should always be to one side since it's a side effect of (among other things) unequal length front axles. Thanks, good advice on rolling in neutral, I'll try to check that today. It might be normal and I didn't notice it before, plus I'm also in the "is my newly repaired suspension okay" mode. Factory alignment might have messed up one of my rear tires, during a suspension check we found out that it was heavily feathered after only 9K.
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Dec 12, 2010 17:57
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Autism Sundae posted:Factory alignment might have messed up one of my rear tires, during a suspension check we found out that it was heavily feathered after only 9K. I'd give a call to the guy you worked with to do the suspension and just double check with him if the prior settings would have exhibited something like that.
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Dec 12, 2010 18:08
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my1999gsr posted:I can't even estimate how much of my work day is spent in the parts dept going over diagrams with my parts advisors to make sure the right thing gets ordered. Hey man, I'm an Audi parts advisor. Do your guys use the ETKA parts catalogue? If so it's not that bad once you know it but you can tell that they got lazy when they use illustrations that don't match the model you're working on which is a pain. I'll also echo your position on the brand in that I also don't go out of my way to help promote it or make it look great because with the lack of information that they give even us sometimes, especially with newer models it makes it a lot harder than it needs to be to help customers.
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Dec 12, 2010 22:26
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charismaslover posted:Hey man, I'm an Audi parts advisor. Do your guys use the ETKA parts catalogue? If so it's not that bad once you know it but you can tell that they got lazy when they use illustrations that don't match the model you're working on which is a pain Its even worse when they flip things and don't match part numbers  Found this out buying bearings and seals for the rear axle on my 2007 Suzuki SV650. Online parts places as well as the dealer had a diagram listing the bearings/seals in the reverse order. On the front tire this wouldn't matter, but in the rear, one side has a larger bearing on one side.
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Dec 12, 2010 22:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Torque steer should always be to one side since it's a side effect of (among other things) unequal length front axles. I just read a bit about unequal length double wishbone suspensions but can you explain why that design would lead to FWD cars torque steering to one side specifically?
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Dec 13, 2010 08:02
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charismaslover posted:Hey man, I'm an Audi parts advisor. Do your guys use the ETKA parts catalogue? If so it's not that bad once you know it but you can tell that they got lazy when they use illustrations that don't match the model you're working on which is a pain. Yeah, we use ETKA. The main reason I'm in the parts dept. so much is because we lost both of our 10+ year veteran parts guys and they knew the ETKA setup inside and out so I could just say "Hey, I need everything for a R/F wheel bearing on an 02 Passat. Let me know when you've got the estimate done." Now if I do that there's a good chance that the right parts won't get ordered, the car will get re-booked and I can't complete the job when it arrives resulting in furious customers. The real lovely parts of ETKA are that it doesn't always show supercession info and you have to go to PartsOnCommand to get the prices after all the part numbers have been found. It drives the new parts guys crazy.
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Dec 14, 2010 00:48
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Autism Sundae posted:Not necessarily VW related I guess, but I got my car back after suspension was fixed and alignment done, but it still pulls to the right a bit when I accelerate. It's not too bad and wouldn't say it's unsafe, the car just starts to drift to the right when it's pointed straight and accelerating. How fast do you have to be going for the car to drift right? When you had the alignment done did they not give you a printout of current alignment numbers? We give out customers a full color printout showing the previous specs (if they're incorrect, they're red) and the adjusted specs.
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Dec 14, 2010 00:55
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schindler.xls posted:
What year and model is this?
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Dec 14, 2010 00:56
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dietcokefiend posted:Drove the car again today. Has a wicked shudder when doing most turns. Anywhere from 50% or 100% lock it vibrates pretty bad enough to shake the entire car. I know some might be normal for a AWD/4WD car.. but that much? I'm sorry I must have missed it - is this on your Rabbit?
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Dec 14, 2010 00:58
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my1999gsr posted:How fast do you have to be going for the car to drift right? The repair shop took the car to an alignment place once they were done, so I'd have to request a printout from them although I don't think they keep the paperwork (and they don't have any copies since the machine only prints them right after the alignment, or at least that's what they explained to me). There isn't really any particular speed at which it starts pulling, the harder I accelerate the more it seems to pull. I tried rolling in neutral (hard to find a relatively straight road here) and the car doesn't seem to have any significant bias to one side over the other, but I only tried it for a few minutes.
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Dec 14, 2010 01:36
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my1999gsr posted:I'm sorry I must have missed it - is this on your Rabbit? Hahaha no, if it was my Rabbit I would have probably already driven it through the dealership window 
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Dec 14, 2010 04:54
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my1999gsr posted:What year and model is this? 2010 MK6 GTI, thought it would seem kinda newish. The foglight works fine, just the plastic is busted up.
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Dec 14, 2010 08:01
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Autism Sundae posted:I just read a bit about unequal length double wishbone suspensions but can you explain why that design would lead to FWD cars torque steering to one side specifically? The unequal lengths involved aren't with the suspension arms, but with the shaft driving the left wheel and the shaft driving the right wheel. Because these axles aren't infinitely rigid, some torque can be used up by twisting the slightly longer shaft (well, more so than the other side). So more torque reaches the ground on the short side and pushes into your steering rack, and back up to your wheel. Apparently, according to Wikipedia, a large differential in driveshaft to wheel hub angles between left and right wheels will also cause torque steer. Something about CV joints and how much torque is lost at higher angles, I guess. In this second case, bumps in the road can probably trigger torque steer to either side. To answer your question, unequal length double wishbone suspensions are bilaterally symmetric, and aren't in and of themselves responsible for torque steer. In fact, the way they provide contact patch at suspension deflection probably helps with torque steer.
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Dec 14, 2010 09:28
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I'm going to test drive some VWs this evening. My dad drives a 2002 Passat withe the auto 6 cylinder. It's a pretty cozy car, so I'm thinking about checking out a 2008 Passat turbo manual. On the other hand, the 4 door Golf TDI looks interesting too. For those of you who have driven both beyond a test drive, is the Golf a lot more fun to drive? Is the sacrifice of extra room worth it in your opinion? Also, how are either of them in the snow?
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Dec 14, 2010 18:19
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Thanks kimbo, but if they're symmetric there really shouldn't be torque steer to one side specifically? I guess I'm just confused as to why torque steer would always take the car in one direction as opposed to left or right depending on condition of the road.
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Dec 14, 2010 23:30
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dietcokefiend posted:Hahaha no, if it was my Rabbit I would have probably already driven it through the dealership window Ok. Is this a newer A4, like 2010ish?
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Dec 15, 2010 01:50
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What is tu name? posted:I'm going to test drive some VWs this evening. My dad drives a 2002 Passat withe the auto 6 cylinder. It's a pretty cozy car, so I'm thinking about checking out a 2008 Passat turbo manual. The new Passats are nice cars but unless you get the bigger 6 cylinder engine they're not really fun to drive. The Golf TDI is a much more fun to drive car - it's got a slightly stiffer suspension and it's much lighter so it feels much more sporty. The Passat CC is a very attractive car too but again, it's pretty large for the 2.0T engine to haul around. The Golf/Rabbit is widely thought (among the techs anyway) to be the best all around vehicle VW has brought to market in some time.
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Dec 15, 2010 01:55
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