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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Whats a combination boiler? Are you talking about a water maker and boiler? The boiler has two separate temperature controls, one for the heating and one for hot water. Basically the boiler is fine. The problem is the showers hottest setting must be letting in too much cold water. Is there a something I can fit in to reduce the cold water supply that isn't bulky, so it would be something inside the pipe.
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Dec 10, 2010 20:43
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Unparagoned posted:The combi boiler heats hot water for the hot water and central heating. There is no storage tank for hot water. So the hot water comes directly from the boiler. Only thing I can think of with out being there is, its a bad cartridge in that valve.
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Dec 10, 2010 21:15
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Unparagoned posted:I have a thermostatic shower. In the summer it's perfect, temperature range is from too cold to too hot. But in the winter it only becomes just warm enough. Also, gently caress this style of heating. I had it in my first apartment and it SUCKS rear end! It should be illegal, seriously. grover fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Dec 11, 2010 |
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Dec 11, 2010 18:11
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grover posted:There is most likely an anti-scald nanny device in your shower preventing it from adjusting to full-hot. If you take off the handle, is should be pretty obvious (is a plastic slip-on fitting in the ones I've seen that simply blocks the handle from turning to full hot.) If don't correctly , radiant heating can be very efficient. But most of the time its the cheapest bidder who doesn't know what he's doing.
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Dec 11, 2010 21:24
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:If don't correctly , radiant heating can be very efficient. But most of the time its the cheapest bidder who doesn't know what he's doing.
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Dec 11, 2010 23:03
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:How often does the water appear? I don't understand the question. There is no visible leaking, except that when I turn the water off, the tank drains down to about an inch. That's how its been for a couple weeks now since I turned the water off for the toilet. To refresh: I first noticed the water level appeared to lower a couple times a day. And I will hear the toilet run for a few seconds a couple times a day. I replaced the flapper but that didn't change anything. So I turned the water off to see what happened. The tank still drained but I can't see how or why as there is no obvious hole anywhere or why it stops draining with about an inch of water left in the tank.
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Dec 11, 2010 23:52
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grover posted:There is most likely an anti-scald nanny device in your shower preventing it from adjusting to full-hot. If you take off the handle, is should be pretty obvious (is a plastic slip-on fitting in the ones I've seen that simply blocks the handle from turning to full hot.) Edit: Just got a new shower and it fixed everything. FSMC fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Dec 22, 2010 |
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Dec 12, 2010 13:27
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A question about adding line, thanks Rd Rash! I have all the mini wiresbo pex manifolds all around my basement which split off the main 3/4" lines from my main to other 1/2" lines throughout the house. The builder left me with one free cold 1/2" and one free hot 1/2" line off these manifolds for basement development. Since I'm putting in a full bathroom I need 3x cold lines and 2x hot lines. What would be the most efficient way to split off my lines? Would I cut into the 3/4" and put new 1/2" manifolds in? Can I add 1/2" manifolds to my 1/2" stubs left behind or would pressure/flow be adversely affected? FYI the 3/4" and 1/2" stubs are all close to each other and about the same distance to the new bathroom. As well that the new bathroom is approximately 6ft across the ceiling from the 1/2" stubs they left for me.
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Dec 12, 2010 17:36
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Unparagoned posted:That's the first thing I did, and I couldn't adjust it more. Also in the summer it can get very hot.
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Dec 12, 2010 18:49
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I have two showers in my house that need fixing up. First, how big of a deal is it to go from this:  To this:  I don't know what's up with this shower. It was like this when we bought the house.:  And then this shower head is only about 5 feet off of the ground. How can I get it up higher? 
Kali11324 fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Dec 12, 2010 |
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Dec 12, 2010 20:42
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Kali11324 posted:I have two showers in my house that need fixing up. Raising the head is fortunately much easier. Just buy a hand shower head (the kind with a hose), and mount the holder as high as you'd like. Installation is trivial compared to the other work here.
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Dec 12, 2010 20:55
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grover posted:Radiant heating? You misunderstand; I'm raging about using the hot water heater to heat the apartment. loving stupid. (Mine routed the hot water through a coil in the air handler it shared with AC system vice just having a heat pump which would have made much more sense.) I quite literally had to turn the heat off every time I took a shower in the winter, or I'd get surprise cold showers that I couldn't adjust for, lest I get a surprise scalding shower. We have aparments now that have infloor heating run off the water heater. Its not the most efficent but it works. Though now check valves on the heating system are going out and they have to keep the heat on for them to get hot water.
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Dec 12, 2010 22:51
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Kung Fu Jesus posted:I don't understand the question. Water wicks in weird ways. It coudl be wicking around the gasket on the tank and into the tank. Thanks for refreshing my memory. There is so many questions going on, i have trouble keeping them straight. It also could be leaking around the bolts holding the tank to the bowl. If you pull the tank, remove the big rubber gasket on the tank and check the 3 inch plasitc nut to see if its tight.
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Dec 12, 2010 22:54
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Ahz posted:A question about adding line, thanks Rd Rash! With out finding out water psi and sizing it properly. Usually in houses we just run 1/2 to everything. We don't manifold often becuase ive heard of pressure issues with them. So in short , I'd bring 3/4 hot and cold to that bathroom.
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Dec 12, 2010 23:05
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grover posted:It's possible to DIY, but it's not going to be an easy DIY job if you haven't done plumbing before. First, you're going to need full access to the other side of that wall. Is there an access hole? If not, your job will start with knocking a giant hole in it. If you cut it cleanly, you can reinstall a nice looking cover overtop of it. Ya he is right. With out knowing whats behind that wall I can't say how much of a bitch it will be. But I am guessing with it being a triple handle valve you will most likely find galvanized pipe. Also to redo the shower, you will have to either buy a trim plate to convert a 3 handle to a single handle. Or you will have to redo the shower enclosure.
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Dec 12, 2010 23:08
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Has anyone here ever installed a pedestal sink using Moen's SecureMount fasteners instead of blocking in the wall? I was going to install my sink today, but apparently I put the blocking too high on the wall, so it isn't lining up with the holes I drilled. I know standard toggle bolts are frowned on for pedestals, but these anchors are used to hold grab bars and mount flat panel TVs, and are rated for 150 lbs each. Opening the wall on the bathroom side is out of the question, I just finished gluing MDF wainscot panels to the wall and they're not coming off any time soon.
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Dec 13, 2010 07:03
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Mthrboard posted:Has anyone here ever installed a pedestal sink using Moen's SecureMount fasteners instead of blocking in the wall? I was going to install my sink today, but apparently I put the blocking too high on the wall, so it isn't lining up with the holes I drilled. I know standard toggle bolts are frowned on for pedestals, but these anchors are used to hold grab bars and mount flat panel TVs, and are rated for 150 lbs each. Opening the wall on the bathroom side is out of the question, I just finished gluing MDF wainscot panels to the wall and they're not coming off any time soon. I have not used those but as long as no guest sit on the sink you should be fine. You can also trace what the sink covers against the wall and cut out the dry rock nicely then slip your hand in the wall and put in a little bit of backing. Reinstall sheet rock so it doesnt mess up the spacing.
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Dec 13, 2010 15:38
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Mthrboard posted:Has anyone here ever installed a pedestal sink using Moen's SecureMount fasteners instead of blocking in the wall? I was going to install my sink today, but apparently I put the blocking too high on the wall, so it isn't lining up with the holes I drilled. I know standard toggle bolts are frowned on for pedestals, but these anchors are used to hold grab bars and mount flat panel TVs, and are rated for 150 lbs each. Opening the wall on the bathroom side is out of the question, I just finished gluing MDF wainscot panels to the wall and they're not coming off any time soon. use a couple of threaded drywall anchors. add a few holes to the mounting plate if you want to be able to use more anchors. Buy the aluminum kind you see on this link, not the plastic. http://www.easyanchors.com/
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Dec 13, 2010 16:05
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Also don't buy the arrestable they sell ,I'd make them. The ones they sell are expensive. I got two of them for $30 and put them on the washing machine in 5 minutes, and they are working very well so far. Much better than spending 4 hours burning my fingers and fixing my own novice fuckups. This thread has convinced me that if I do decide to expend effort on the plumbing, I'll just redo the whole house in PEX. It's currently a mystery maze of crazy - whoever renovated 10 years ago should have redone it from scratch, but instead they half-assedly interfaced with the original galvanized from the 40s. There are loops, a showerhead in the basement, random stubs everywhere, supply lines routed to kansas and back instead of straight to the fixtures.
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Dec 13, 2010 20:53
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have not used those but as long as no guest sit on the sink you should be fine. You can also trace what the sink covers against the wall and cut out the dry rock nicely then slip your hand in the wall and put in a little bit of backing. Reinstall sheet rock so it doesnt mess up the spacing. If it was just the sheetrock I would have done that right away, but I didn't notice the error until I already glued up the wainscot panels on top of the sheetrock. I think I'll just try these anchors. If they can hold up a TV, they should be able to hold up a sink.
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Dec 13, 2010 21:15
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I'm renovating a house that was empty for 18+ months, the coldwater tank in the attic looks like it has a fleet of dead jellyfish in there so I've stopped using the water until I clean it. The tank isn't too big, looks like 50-75 litres, I know where the shut-off valve to the fill is, how should I approach it? Where should I drain it off from? What would be the right chemical to clean it with? Also, ew ew ew ew, there's a massive dead hornet in the bottom of the tank.
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Dec 13, 2010 23:42
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Mthrboard posted:If it was just the sheetrock I would have done that right away, but I didn't notice the error until I already glued up the wainscot panels on top of the sheetrock. I think I'll just try these anchors. If they can hold up a TV, they should be able to hold up a sink. slap me silly posted:I got two of them for $30 and put them on the washing machine in 5 minutes, and they are working very well so far. Much better than spending 4 hours burning my fingers and fixing my own novice fuckups. This thread has convinced me that if I do decide to expend effort on the plumbing, I'll just redo the whole house in PEX. It's currently a mystery maze of crazy - whoever renovated 10 years ago should have redone it from scratch, but instead they half-assedly interfaced with the original galvanized from the 40s. There are loops, a showerhead in the basement, random stubs everywhere, supply lines routed to kansas and back instead of straight to the fixtures. I guess if you don't feel comfortable soldering or making one with shark bites the price isnt bad. Cakefool posted:I'm renovating a house that was empty for 18+ months, the coldwater tank in the attic looks like it has a fleet of dead jellyfish in there so I've stopped using the water until I clean it. The tank isn't too big, looks like 50-75 litres, I know where the shut-off valve to the fill is, how should I approach it? Where should I drain it off from? What would be the right chemical to clean it with? I honestly don't know about a cold water tank. What state are you in. And why do you have a tank and not hooked up to a well or city water?
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Dec 14, 2010 04:44
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I honestly don't know about a cold water tank. What state are you in. And why do you have a tank and not hooked up to a well or city water? I'm in the UK, we have a mains water supply that feeds a header tank in the roofspace generally.
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Dec 14, 2010 13:46
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Cakefool posted:I'm in the UK, we have a mains water supply that feeds a header tank in the roofspace generally. I'd contact the city about best ways to clean it.
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Dec 15, 2010 01:12
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Loose fitting lid, though the same plumber that screwed the rest of the house put a 6" hole in the top for the hotwater overflow to piddle through. I'll stopcock the mains, drai teh cold water out, scoop the gunge & dead hornets out & clean it with some household antibacterial cleaner, then flush it through. If I never post again, it was probably Legionella Pneumophillia.
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Dec 15, 2010 07:00
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Hey, folks- I just have a quick question, then I'll get off your thread! I'm living in a house that I rent from a good friend's parents, and I'm having trouble with one particular sink clogging every couple weeks. It goes from being a really slow drain to almost not appearing to move at all until you get back from work and it's all drained off and left a nice film on the sides... The house was built in the mid-to-late 60's from what I've been told, but I don't know about the pipes or anything, so don't ask.. I really don't know gently caress-all about plumbing, and the landlords are out of the country until March, so I turn to you, good Goons. I've Draino'd it a couple times, but my incredibly paranoid Mom told me growing up that Draino can burn out the pipes. First, is there any truth to this? Secondly, I had been using the Gel. Will the Foaming Pipe Snake or whatever they advertise work better in my case? Thanks in advance!
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Dec 15, 2010 16:22
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TShields posted:Hey, folks- I just have a quick question, then I'll get off your thread! I'm living in a house that I rent from a good friend's parents, and I'm having trouble with one particular sink clogging every couple weeks. It goes from being a really slow drain to almost not appearing to move at all until you get back from work and it's all drained off and left a nice film on the sides... The house was built in the mid-to-late 60's from what I've been told, but I don't know about the pipes or anything, so don't ask.. I really don't know gently caress-all about plumbing, and the landlords are out of the country until March, so I turn to you, good Goons. I've Draino'd it a couple times, but my incredibly paranoid Mom told me growing up that Draino can burn out the pipes. First, is there any truth to this? Secondly, I had been using the Gel. Will the Foaming Pipe Snake or whatever they advertise work better in my case? Thanks in advance! From a quick google search, some drains can be bad for galvanized drain lines. Its ok for pvc and abs. I'd suggest using a plunger. Plug the over flow with your finger and put some water in the sink and plung away. Wear safety goggles just incase some drain is still left in the sink.' And if it ate through your pipes, you'd atleast notice it draining quicker. So if its not I wouldnt worry to much.
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Dec 15, 2010 18:06
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:From a quick google search, some drains can be bad for galvanized drain lines. Its ok for pvc and abs. I'd suggest using a plunger. Plug the over flow with your finger and put some water in the sink and plung away. Wear safety goggles just incase some drain is still left in the sink.' The sides of the sink aren't plunger-friendly. The back comes down at basically a 90 degree angle, and I can't get the plunger to make a seal between the drain and where the back connects to the rest of the bowl. There isn't enough room between the back and the little dip where the drain is. I'll probably wait out the afternoon, see if anyone else posts, then try the foaming stuff tonight.
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Dec 15, 2010 20:26
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TShields posted:The sides of the sink aren't plunger-friendly. The back comes down at basically a 90 degree angle, and I can't get the plunger to make a seal between the drain and where the back connects to the rest of the bowl. There isn't enough room between the back and the little dip where the drain is. I'd pull the trap then and run a snake through it. Thats your only other option.
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Dec 15, 2010 20:28
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I'd pull the trap then and run a snake through it. Thats your only other option. I know nothing about plumbing, but I'll head to the pet store tonight. Any thoughts on what kind of snake I should get? What if it bites one of my cats? Okay, I'm not that dumb, but I don't have any of that equipment or know-how. Seriously, outside of working on computers, I've never done anything mechanical. The foam didn't work. It seems like the clog is deep, because if I'm shaving or washing my face or something and waiting for the water to get warm, it doesn't start to sit in the sink for about 10-15 seconds or so. Afterwards, it sits in the sink for about an hour before it's all drained out. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and call a plumber if it gets too annoying, but I don't have the spare funds at the moment. Maybe X-mas money.. 
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Dec 16, 2010 19:28
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I had this identical problem and was able to resolve it after a lot of swearing with a battery drill and a power snake from Home Depot. The snake was $35 or so - do you know anyone with a drill? You can get a hand snake for $15, but I couldn't get that to work in my situation.
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Dec 16, 2010 19:46
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TShields posted:I know nothing about plumbing, but I'll head to the pet store tonight. Any thoughts on what kind of snake I should get? What if it bites one of my cats? Ok first step is you man up and stop treating this like rocket science. Go take a picture under your sink so I can figure out what you are dealing with. Then I will give you step by step instructions how to take apart the p trap and run a simple drum snake. Its going to be gross but shouldnt be to bad. If you talk to your landlord they make recoup some of your material costs for doing the work yourself.
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Dec 16, 2010 22:37
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Im planning to recreate something like this: I'm putting up a 120sq ft building in a tiny backyard and have nowhere to daylight rainwater from the french drain around the foundation. Im thinking my only option is to create a sump in the yard farthest away from the buildings and hope the water can slowly percolate into the soil there Any input?
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Dec 17, 2010 04:36
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Ifdwoloz posted:Im planning to recreate something like this: Ive always seen the perforated pipe ran covered in a mesh cloth level or just below the outside of the foundation. Use cpv or abs pipe run into your catch basin of choice. If you bed the french drain in gravel and cover it with more mess cloth then your top soil. Have the catch basin can sitting in a pit of gravel also with a mess covering of gravel with a mesh top soil with top soil. If you don't put a mesh between the gravel and top soil. When it rains yoru top soil will settle into the gravel and look like poo poo.
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Dec 17, 2010 07:02
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Ok guys. I have a question. I've bought a brand new house 4 years ago. Yesterday we had a small issue with the washer where we found water underneath. AFter testing the rinse cycle and spin cycle, we noticed that our washer drain is not clearing the water fast enough anymore. It looks like it starts coming up and then eventually overflows. if i stop it for a second, then it will catch up and release. We had no problems for 4 years and now this. Any suggestions? Need a plumber to find out why its draining slow? I have not notcied any other issues with sinks, toilets or showers. Thanks
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Dec 20, 2010 18:16
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b0g posted:Ok guys. Well if its backing up inside the unit and not overflowing at the waste connection at the wall, it is probably an internal problem (or a filter in the drain hose that is clogged). Have you checked to see if your washer has a replaceable filter on the ejector side?
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Dec 20, 2010 18:18
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Should have been more clear. Its the actual waste drain in the wall and not the washing machine. I can hear it filling up almost like a bottle of water and then if i lift up the hose from the washing machine, i can see water iun the pipe at the wall.
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Dec 20, 2010 18:23
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b0g posted:Should have been more clear. Its the actual waste drain in the wall and not the washing machine. I can hear it filling up almost like a bottle of water and then if i lift up the hose from the washing machine, i can see water iun the pipe at the wall. Yea well its a trap setup, you should see some water. Think of it this way. If the washer was ejecting water faster than the drain was draining, it would overflow onto your wall.
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Dec 20, 2010 19:23
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? It is overflowing into my wall. This is the reason why i'm posting it. It never overflowed previously and now its overflowing.
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Dec 20, 2010 19:28
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b0g posted:? It is overflowing into my wall. This is the reason why i'm posting it. It never overflowed previously and now its overflowing. Ohhhh, I read your original post as the water inside the washer machine was overflowing out of the top. Not that the drain itself was overflowing. It should be a standard trap design in the wall. Lint or whatever may have clogged it up. Getting a snake and feeding it through might work.
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Dec 20, 2010 19:35
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