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Cars have to deal with temperature changes that furniture doesn't. Radical temperature swings can make lacquer check(crack). I would think something like Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil would work for your panels and it will enhance the grain. It is a gun stock finishing oil originally, but I personally use it to finish guitar necks. If it can hold up on a rifle stock out in the woods I figure it can handle most anything. Application is easy too just rub it in with your fingers and buff with steel wool in between coats. It can be built up and buffed to a very high polish. I didn't build this but it shows off a highly polished Tru-Oil finish. 
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Dec 13, 2010 18:09
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Wow, that sounds perfect. Is there a generic woodworking equivalent to the formulation of that oil? There are plenty of painting and building supply places here in the city but I'd need to go out of town to get to a gun store. I'd just get whatever the tool store answer to it. EDIT: Holy crap, is it just boiled linseed oil? I've already got that for refinishing rifle stocks. Hmmmm. McMadCow fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 18:36
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I use cyanoacrylate and lots of sanding. Bare wood to 400, 5 coats of CA then sand it flat with 600 and buff with Micromesh through 1200,2400,3600,6000,8000,12000 grits. I use CA because it cures in seconds and I can get coats on quick, and even use an accelerator if I'm in an even bigger hurry. I'm not sure well it would work on something like that though. I don't think it would be feasible to get everything buffed and polished out by hand with something that can't be chucked on a lathe.
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Dec 13, 2010 20:51
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Are CAs really hard, or something? What makes them too tough to sand out with a sanding block and wet/dry paper? EDIT: Oh, I get it. The only way to apply it fast enough is on a lathe. Yeah, I don't know how I'd get it on to my panels, even though they're not very big. McMadCow fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Dec 13, 2010 |
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Dec 13, 2010 21:35
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McMadCow posted:Wow, that sounds perfect. Is there a generic woodworking equivalent to the formulation of that oil? There are plenty of painting and building supply places here in the city but I'd need to go out of town to get to a gun store. I'd just get whatever the tool store answer to it. It's a proprietary formula that contains boiled linseed oil among other things from what I understand. I used to be able to pick up bottles at Wal-Mart but it seems they stopped carrying it, now I get at Dick's a sporting goods store, I would assume any other sporting goods store with a hunting/gun section would carry or be able to get it.
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Dec 13, 2010 22:17
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Thumposaurus posted:It's a proprietary formula that contains boiled linseed oil among other things from what I understand. I used to be able to pick up bottles at Wal-Mart but it seems they stopped carrying it, now I get at Dick's a sporting goods store, I would assume any other sporting goods store with a hunting/gun section would carry or be able to get it. Cool, I didn't know if there's something specific about it or not. As I said I've refinished a few rifle stocks in BLO, but not to a glossy finish. I still have a bunch of that at home, so I think I'll start with that and move on to Tru-oil if it's not shiny enough. Cheers!
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Dec 13, 2010 22:21
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McMadCow posted:Are CAs really hard, or something? What makes them too tough to sand out with a sanding block and wet/dry paper? Its superglue. I use it on lathes just to seal cracks from spreading though never used it as a finish.
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Dec 14, 2010 03:20
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McMadCow posted:EDIT: Holy crap, is it just boiled linseed oil? I've already got that for refinishing rifle stocks. Hmmmm. No. It is some variation of varnish/oil mix, sometimes called a Danish oil or wiping varnish. Gun stock finishing is more tradition than anything. Tru-oil is ridiculously expensive, don't waste money on it when you could mix your own or buy an alternative. Adding oil to varnish allows it to be more elastic. I have no experience with lacquer outside furniture where it is considered extremely durable. Regardless of what film finish you use, hand buffing is key to a high shine. And shellac is an acceptable sealer under any type of film finish, people usually use dewaxed or blonde shellac, but isn't always necessary. The video is a bit annoying but educational. http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30611
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Dec 14, 2010 04:48
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Thanks for the heads up on the shop vac; I picked up one the other week and it probably been the best investment I've made so far! If you don't mind me picking your brains again, I was looking around at stepping things up a notch and building a router table. I'm quite enamored with this table Norm built on NYS, but before I plunk down some cash for the plans, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on router tables or suggestions or other plans they liked better. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Dec 14, 2010 |
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Dec 14, 2010 06:06
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Edit: Sorry, double post
Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Dec 14, 2010 |
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Dec 14, 2010 06:12
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Anyone ever shop at CPO? http://www.cpotools.com/ I'm looking at this: http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-4100-10-in-worksite-table-saw/bshn4100,default,pd.html Seems like a good deal for a saw that gets good reviews, I'm waiting to get something larger when I have room.
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Dec 15, 2010 06:28
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McMadCow posted:Are CAs really hard, or something? What makes them too tough to sand out with a sanding block and wet/dry paper? If you get the slow-cure CA, you can certainly use it for a finish. My dad did it on a wooden tugboat model. I think he started with the thinner CA to penetrate, then built up the finish with the thicker slow-cure stuff. That hull was as hard as a rock when he was done, which is good because you usually end up beaching a model boat a lot. The downside is that it's a hellishly expensive option.
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Dec 16, 2010 22:47
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900ftjesus posted:Anyone ever shop at CPO? I haven't bought anything from CPO but I do have this saw - it is awesome and has handled everything I have thrown at it. One note of caution though - it takes 2 people to put together and I skinned my knuckles doing so  I would recommend getting the Bosch gravity rise stand (you can buy the saw with the stand) - it makes the saw just the right height and makes it so easy to move - unless you have a location for it already, it i worth the extra cash. I would also recommend looking at the Bosch zero clearance insert (TS1005) and (if you do large pieces) the extension rails (TS1002 and TS1003). Some people also recommend the digital fence guide - I can't afford it at the minute and haven't had any problems with accuracy but if you have the money, you might want to think about it. One last thing - think about waxing the bed before using the saw - it makes the fence easier to adjust and the wood slides easier.
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Dec 17, 2010 00:28
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Well, after building a few little things around the house, I decided to jump in with both feet. I just ordered $700 worth of hardwoods to build a California King "captain's bed". I designed the whole thing in Sketchup, and used Cutlist to get board layouts. One of the lumber places near me was really patient working through my list of stuff to help me get what I needed. I'm pretty sure I'm going to take the "simple" route on the joinery, and just rely on the scope of the project for shock-and-awe. I'd post pictures of plans, but it is right on the fence between gaudy and fantastic, and honestly I don't even know what side it will be be on right now. I'll keep you updated as I go, I'm sure I'll have a few questions. 
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Dec 17, 2010 02:22
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dja98 posted:I haven't bought anything from CPO but I do have this saw - it is awesome and has handled everything I have thrown at it. One note of caution though - it takes 2 people to put together and I skinned my knuckles doing so Thanks for the info and advice. I was looking into the zero clearance insert for sure, I'll probably get the rails a bit later. Not sure about the stand yet, it's not going to move a lot, I just don't have room for anything bigger.
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Dec 17, 2010 02:55
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So tempted to get this Craftsman lathe fro $100 despite my shop having zero room left http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/2116666160.html
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Dec 18, 2010 01:56
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Do it. Use a spare bedroom for a lathe room. Dooo it.
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Dec 18, 2010 02:42
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I've been watching too much of "The Woodright's Shop" and a little bit of New Yankee Workshop, and so on a whim I went into H.D. and bought an 18" segment of 1x3. My intention is/was to carve it, really just whittle it with my gerber tool. Is it just me, or is Red Oak the hardest wood known to man? I can't possibly imagine what Ebony is like. Did I pick the wrong wood for whittling completely at random? I didn't want like normal framing 2x4's that are so soft and practically come apart at the grains. Then again I REALLY don't know what I'm doing.
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Dec 18, 2010 04:40
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I've always tried to avoid oak because it's horrible to deal with. Starting fires with drill bits and the like. I'd stick with fir/spruce/pine for whittling with a multitool. I was browsing some boatbuilding forums when I ran into this device and was impressed. I'm not much of a woodworker, so I was kind of blown away by the simplicity.
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Dec 18, 2010 04:49
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With the exception of the occasional rough building sorts of things, oak is literally the worst wood in the universe. I adore it for many things, but any real woodwork and it's absolutely awful and terrible to deal with. This comes from a lifetime of only ever using oak to build things, and about 3/4ths of a lifetime of terrible projects 
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Dec 18, 2010 05:00
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sixide posted:this device and was impressed. Whoa...totally impressed. That's some incredible workmanship and ingenuity right there
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Dec 18, 2010 05:01
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sixide posted:this device I just watched that whole video completely stupified... that is by far the most impressive jig I have ever seen 
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Dec 18, 2010 05:26
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I agree that thing sure is pretty cool. Ingenuity! 
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Dec 18, 2010 05:27
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But it begs the question: How did he cut the first template? If he used rasps to round off the tenon, does that mean he's reproducing all those imperfections he was initially aiming to circumvent?
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Dec 18, 2010 05:29
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The Scientist posted:But it begs the question: How did he cut the first template? His mortise templates are very simple and use what looks like machined plastic or something, so they should be deadly accurate. I would guess he printed a paper template for the tenons and cut it on a bandsaw (his favorite power tool, it seems), so it should have minimal errors. Also the 2:1 reduction means any errors in the final product are reduced by 2 (4?) as well.
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Dec 18, 2010 05:42
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I use white oak a lot and I've never had a single problem with it. Its an incredibly common hardwood in the midwest, so its great to find a locally sourced hardwood I can get cheap. For quick mortise and tenon nothing I've seen beats the festool domino, its stupidly fun in a production environment, my boss bought one for a series of lamps we made and we blasted them out in no time.
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Dec 18, 2010 18:29
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ChaoticSeven posted:Do it. Use a spare bedroom for a lathe room. Dooo it. I was wondering: is some of the smaller stuff you do (pens, stoppers, etc.) something that could be accomplished on a smaller "hobby" lathe? I have a big drafting table that I use as a workbench and have been wanting to get into turning, but am I just going to start, say "this is awesome, but I need a bigger lathe" and then feel like I wasted that initial investment?
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Dec 18, 2010 21:49
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PipeRifle posted:am I just going to start, say "this is awesome, but I need a bigger lathe" and then feel like I wasted that initial investment? This is generally how tools work. If you are unsure of a hobby/skill, then always buy used, that way you can usually resell it for what you paid. semi-related: Bought a like-new DeWalt 925DLX radial arm saw yesterday, stored indoors its whole life, no rust, no wear on the ways, motor sounds great (so quiet!) and the blade brake works perfectly, it came with a bunch of blades. It is going on my rolling cart assembly table, so I will likely be able to sell the base for 1/3rd of what I paid for the whole thing, which was $175. There's no SCMS that could come close to matching the quality or capabilities of this thing, not for thrice the price. Point: you just have to 1. know what you are looking for, research older machines, know what ones were good. and 2. continuously keep an eye out, you will eventually find what you are looking for. I was in a huge rush to "get equipment" after I left school, and made several poor purchasing decisions. Now I just know what I want and am willing to wait for the right equipment to come around.
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Dec 19, 2010 00:31
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PipeRifle posted:I was wondering: is some of the smaller stuff you do (pens, stoppers, etc.) something that could be accomplished on a smaller "hobby" lathe? I have a big drafting table that I use as a workbench and have been wanting to get into turning, but am I just going to start, say "this is awesome, but I need a bigger lathe" and then feel like I wasted that initial investment? Yes, you can do those small things on a "hobby" lathe. Just keep in mind the lathe is generally the least of your costs in turning. Unless you get a giant Powermatic bowl lathe that runs over $3k. Basically any lathe that doesn't have runout and the head and tailstock line up is good to go for pens/stoppers/ornaments/dildos. If you go used just try to get one that at least has quick releases on the tailstock and toolrest. I thought I could put up with bolts for those things but it just isn't feasible for me. Edit: Also, a lot of people who get into turning via pens or the like do in fact end up with bigger lathes. Many also keep the small lathe for the small things too. The big one can do all the things a small one can, though. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Dec 19, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 07:01
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sixide posted:His mortise templates are very simple and use what looks like machined plastic or something, so they should be deadly accurate. The inventor brought this machine to the December meeting of the Ottawa Woodworkers Association. He had the sample tripple mortise/tenon joint there and it was TIGHT.
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Dec 19, 2010 14:32
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Yeah, I'm officially glad I bought my Grizzly G0513X2 bandsaw. I made a router bowl for a Christmas gift this weekend (more on that in a bit). I decided to give it a "cap" of Walnut, and I had a short 10" wide board that I couldn't really use for anything else. Put a Lenox Kerfmaster on the saw, set the fence, and in 5 minutes I had a couple beautiful 1/8" boards out of it. I glued up the blank and routed it out this afternoon. I think it was a solid 2 hours of routing - and that was even after I wasted away most of the inside of the bowl with a forstner bit. I only have a 1 3/4 HP router, so I was taking it slow. My template is only a quarter of the bowl, so I had to route until I was as deep as the router could go, then move the template. I'm looking at bigger routers now on Amazon, maybe I'll buy myself a 2 1/4 HP Christmas gift. Once it was all routed out, it was back to the bandsaw to cut it out of the square blank. I had mounted a Lenox Diemaster on the bandsaw yesterday rather than leaving my resaw blade on it, so it was good to go. It made short work of cutting out the circle and did a great job that only required minimal sanding. I used to hate using the old bandsaw because it would not cut along a line, vibrated something terrible, and was in general not very useful except for cutting up scrap. The Grizzly is so much nicer and a welcome addition to the shop. Now if I just had room for that Unisaw I saw on Craigslist...
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Dec 20, 2010 02:59
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DropDeadRed posted:The inventor brought this machine to the December meeting of the Ottawa Woodworkers Association. He had the sample tripple mortise/tenon joint there and it was TIGHT. Was everyone there as  as us, cause that is seriously impressive.I'm in the middle of building a little food bowl stand for my dog. I've got it basically assembled, but I'm not sure how I'm going to finish it. The base is pine plywood with prefab legs and railing that I presume are also pine. My dog will inevitably be slurping all over the thing, so something non-toxic (or at least non-toxic after drying) would be essential. I thought about just using some food-grade mineral oil, but I thought it might be nice to stain it as well. Any suggestions on what sort of stain I should use that would be food-safe?
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Dec 20, 2010 04:13
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stubblyhead posted:Was everyone there as Dude this is seriously gonna blow your whole project, and I'm sorry in advance, but- its not good to feed your dog from a raised up bowl (if your dog is big, that is). It promotes them swallowing air, which can lead to a deadly condition called bloat. Only reason I'm even mentioning it is 'cause we lost our super beloved golden retriever/collie mix to this a couple of years ago. I was there all alone and watched her within 1 hour of showing any symptoms at all pass away. Heart-wrenching. Again sorry, only don't wanna see something horrible happen. Again, this is the big issue only if you have a big, older dog. Its estimated to be the #2 cause of death in dogs meeting that criteria.
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Dec 20, 2010 05:56
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drat what a buzz kill. I'm sure you can find something awesome to use it for. In fact I guarantee it. Upholster it and make it an ottoman. The foot stool not the person.
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Dec 20, 2010 06:02
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Sorry about your dog, but the jury is still out regarding whether a raised bowl contributes to bloat or not. We've done it for years on makeshift platforms with multiple dogs with no problems.
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Dec 20, 2010 07:05
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nm
wormil fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Dec 20, 2010 |
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Dec 20, 2010 07:19
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DropDeadRed posted:The inventor brought this machine to the December meeting of the Ottawa Woodworkers Association. He had the sample tripple mortise/tenon joint there and it was TIGHT. It's pretty neat - I'm thinking about buying the plans and playing around with it. But first I get to order my first real bandsaw  And that's what brings me here - I'm not sure what to get.I know this has been covered a couple times - but I need some help choosing which bandsaw. I'm leaning towards the G0555X. It's out of my price range a little (I was looking at 600 - and this is 625 - unfortunately 725 with freight). It seems well liked and pretty good for my price range. It seems like enough of an improvement over the G0555 to justify the cost, even though the G0555+frieght is closer to my budget. 725 is pretty much the max I can go so please don't tell me there is a great bandsaw at 800+ dollars - I'm sure there is but I can't go higher. If there is a reason not to get something in the price range I have please let me know. I don't want to wait too long for a deal - I finally have the time, money, opportunity, and space to use a bandsaw so I want to take advantage of it ASAP. What do I want for my bandsaw : My immediate project is to cut some wood to make marimba keys. I want to be able to cut curves into pieces of maple that will be up to 14inchs long, up to 2 in wide, and up to 4 in thick.
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Dec 20, 2010 08:04
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sixide posted:I've always tried to avoid oak because it's horrible to deal with. Starting fires with drill bits and the like. I'd stick with fir/spruce/pine for whittling with a multitool. Strange -- it's a great machine, but I don't think that video really shows how cool it really could be. He should get with the Bridge City Tool guy and brainstorm some "Oh poo poo I couldn't possibly make that without that machine" ideas going. I mean, he has one, but ... wow nice job making a machine that mimics the look of through-dowel construction. 
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Dec 20, 2010 09:13
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Cobalt60 posted:Strange -- it's a great machine, but I don't think that video really shows how cool it really could be. He should get with the Bridge City Tool guy and brainstorm some "Oh poo poo I couldn't possibly make that without that machine" ideas going. He could mass produce ball-bearing mazes.
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Dec 20, 2010 09:26
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Someone sent me a link to a boingboing item which was itself just a youtube video. Here's that video (it's not the mortise and tenon thing). I dunno, seems nifty enough. It's really just an unpowered fixed-blade table saw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ruwZdaPjbs I can't imagine trying to use it with even a marginally dull blade. 
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Dec 20, 2010 17:40
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