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helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

MadScientistWorking posted:

Wait what? I'm entirely confused about the claim that the magnetic field decreases as the speed goes up.

They are probably refering to the fact that as speed increases the counter EMF increases.

What's your point anyways? I was just pointing out that most R/C car applications I had seen uses sensor operation to increase starting torque and sensored operation was unheard of in aircraft applications because they do not start under much load.

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Phat_Albert posted:

Having ran, raced, and repeatedly broken a Stampede since May of this year, I have a good bit of experience with them. Mine started life as an XL-5 cast off from some kid who didnt take care of it, and has since been transformed to an excellent handler and basher.

Firstly, they are awesome trucks, and are hilariously fun in most all situations, as both of you have already found out.

A couple of things, Stampede related, that I basically learned the hard way:

1) When (not if) you break your first A-arm, replace it with the RPM part. Much more durable.

2) If you're running the XL-5, make sure it has a metal top gear from the VXL in the transmission. If it doesnt, the plastic gear will strip eventually, and you'll have to buy one anyway. If you have the plastic gear, just wait till it craps out and get the metal gear.

3) When it comes time to tear the tranny down and re-grease it (after 10 or so runs, or any run in the water), use the Traxxas transmission grease, or thrust bearing grease. Regular automotive wheel bearing grease doesnt work. Also, pay attention to the bearings when you do the tranny, if they are grinding or sticking even a little, replace them. Replacing them with stock Traxxas bearings is fine. Keep the old tranny bearings because.........

4) You'll eventually need wheel bearings. When the wheel bearings start grinding and sticking, its time to replace them. Decomissioned trans bearings work great. Dont ever put bearings from the wheels into the trans though, obviously.

5) When (not if) you break your first steering block, dont get the RPM replacement part, they flex too much. Pick up a few sets of the stock plastic traxxas ones, you'll wind up needing them. I stay away from the aluminum ones for a few reasons. First is the cost, second if you wreck you can still bend the aluminum ones, but you cant bend them back without significantly weakening them, then you're out that big cost.

6) Resist the temptation to epoxy the diff, or fill it with thick grease to stop wheelspin. Doing so only puts stress on the rest of the driveline, and you'll be going through axles and endshafts like candy. To really get the wheelspin under control, see step 8.

7) The steering servo can only take so much abuse. The stock XL-5 is a plastic geared servo that will probably eventually strip, and the stock servo saver doesnt do it any favors. Replace the servo with the VXL unit, or ideally a Hitec 645MG. Also, put a good servo saver on, like the Kimbrough KM124. Then proceed to never worry about the servo again.

Steps 8,9,10,11 are for if you get serious about racing or hard bashing.

8) The stock shocks are pretty good, and even better with different oil and springs on them. Prepare to have the caps pop off them under hard bashing situations though, which also means you lose the oil in them when that happens. Some people go with the heavy-duty aluminum capped traxxas shocks as an upgrade, and some go with the Pro-Line Power Stroke shocks from the Slash (both are a direct fit). If you want bashability and dont care much about handling, go with the heavy duty traxxas units, if you want sharp handling and crazy adjustability, plus bashability, get the Pro-Lines. The PL's are obviously more expensive than the traxxas HD's. I have the PL's and love them, but realize that not everyone needs them. If I was just bashing, I'd probably do the traxxas HD's.

9) The hot ticket for wheels/tires is RPM 2.2" Revolver wheels with Pro-Line Masher tires. The Mashers do great on any surface, and are 100x stickier than the stock tires, but they wear much faster, be prepared to buy new tires every couple of months with the Mashers. Its a trade-off, you get grip like nuts, or you get long wearing life, not both. If you dont find traction to be a problem (sliding is fun), just run the stock tires through their normal lifespan, as the Mashers do require some attention. If you upgrade to these wheels/tires, the steering servo and servo saver is a must. The mashers are bigger and grippier than the stock tires, and put the servo under quite a bit more stress.

10) Do yourself a favor and go lipo if you havent already, the performance is way above the NIMH batteries. 2S 5000MAH is ideal.

11) When you want to go brushless, the Traxxas VXL setup is the best for the Stampede. The ESC and motor are both waterproof, and performance is way beyond the XL-5's brushed motor. The Stampede will seriously start a wheelie from like 25mph if you punch the throttle. Traxxas has a trade-in program where you can give them your XL-5 ESC and motor, and they will give you $50 off the VXL setup. If you do the VXL kit, the beefier shocks and tires are basically a requirement.

Thanks for taking the time to write up this awesome post. You've probably saved me a lot of future frustration.

Any tips on wheels/tires for running in snow?

Edit: About to pull the trigger on http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9172 and http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028 Look good?

Enos Cabell fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Dec 1, 2010

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

Goldmund posted:

Thanks for taking the time to write up this awesome post. You've probably saved me a lot of future frustration.

Any tips on wheels/tires for running in snow?

I would suggest paddle, or tractor treads to go for something you can use in mud and grass so you're not limited to just the beach or snow.

skippo
Jun 9, 2006

Phat_Albert posted:

Awesome advice

Thank you sooo much! Really appreciate the effort :D

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Goldmund posted:

Thanks for taking the time to write up this awesome post. You've probably saved me a lot of future frustration.

Any tips on wheels/tires for running in snow?

Edit: About to pull the trigger on http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9172 and http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=7028 Look good?

Charger and battery both look good. If you arent already, I'd run the Traxxas connectors on both the battery and ESC, since you'll have to change the battery connector anyway.

I personally think the Traxxas connectors are the best high-amp connectors out there.

EDIT: Bear in mind that lipos from Hong Kong take forever to get to the US. If you're in the US and need lipos, I'd order from the HobbyKing US warehouse: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/us.asp?currentPage=1

I just ordered a plane battery from there and it was to my house in 3 days.

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Dec 1, 2010

skippo
Jun 9, 2006

First casualty!

Stampede XL-5.

What are these parts called so I can replace them ASAP!!!?
I have looked in the manual and am confused :(



Thanks.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Looks like #3632 according to this

I'm not very familiar with TRX parts but that looks like an incredibly weakly designed part, no? Is that a commonly broken part?

skippo
Jun 9, 2006

krushgroove posted:

Looks like #3632 according to this

I'm not very familiar with TRX parts but that looks like an incredibly weakly designed part, no? Is that a commonly broken part?

Certainly looks weak.. Though I did hit something going probably over 20mph all on the left hand front wheel.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Yah, well in cold weather the plastic parts get more brittle, especially composite mixes (I don't know what that part is made from). RPM arms and other parts made from high-impact nylon (i.e., bendable in your hand, like many truck/car wheels) will be able to resist this better, but everything has its limit, whether it's temperature, speed, whatever.

20mph is a decentish speed to crash something at, just remember the motto of the thread: "try not to say the words 'scale speed'" :)

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

This looks comically out of proportion, which sucks. but it would be fun I guess

http://traxxas.com/products/models/electric/7309kenblock

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




krushgroove posted:

Looks like #3632 according to this

I'm not very familiar with TRX parts but that looks like an incredibly weakly designed part, no? Is that a commonly broken part?

It is part 3632.

You have a couple of choices, replace it with the traxxas part for cheap, and accept that you'll break others, or get the aluminum TRX piece and accept that you can still bend it and be out that cash (although that may be unlikely depending on how you drive it). I personally just have a bag of the traxxas plastic ones on hand, but plenty of people like the aluminum ones.

I'd skip the RPM replacement for that part, as their flexiness just bends that pin instead of breaking the plastic part, and then your handling is all messed up. And you still have to buy another pin. That C-block is really the only RPM part that is not as good as OEM, the rest are above OEM quality.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Well, Winter has hit in Wisconsin, so that means its time to try out the Pede in the snow!


Click here for the full 1280x960 image.


All of those tracks are mine, other than the two full size car tracks.


Click here for the full 1280x960 image.


The Mashers grip well in the snow if you're very easy on the throttle, but the VXL starts them spinning if you look at the throttle the wrong way. Its fun though, it does very controllable long slow drifts.

As you drive it in the snow though it gets heavier and slower as the snow packs on, and pretty soon it just spins the tires because its too heavy to move. If you knock the snow off every couple minutes its great.

I think my 5000mah batteries could have gone for a half hour or more, as theres no real load on the motor on the snow.

TremorX
Jan 19, 2001

All Hail Big Hairy Mike

Hah, that's awesome!

Last night was our LHS's last race for a while, so it's probably the last time I race the Losi Strike. It actually did really well; I gave it a poo poo-load of toe out and negative camber on the front, and ran 18/88 spur/pinion, and managed to squeak out a 2nd place in my B-Main, losing to a modded up Strike with a 13.5 BL setup.

I'm ordering my Blitz ESE kit with a Tekin 13.5 setup next week. I think I've settled on a Futaba S3010 servo, now I just need to pick some tires.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Phat_Albert posted:

The Mashers grip well in the snow if you're very easy on the throttle, but the VXL starts them spinning if you look at the throttle the wrong way. Its fun though, it does very controllable long slow drifts.

As you drive it in the snow though it gets heavier and slower as the snow packs on, and pretty soon it just spins the tires because its too heavy to move. If you knock the snow off every couple minutes its great.

I think my 5000mah batteries could have gone for a half hour or more, as theres no real load on the motor on the snow.

That looks super fun. We are still waiting on the first big snow here in Nebraska. How far apart do you tear it down after a run in the snow like that?

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




I'm going to pull the trans apart and see how much water it took on, but I'm betting its not much, and you could do a teardown every few runs.

Spatule
Mar 18, 2003
My wife got me an Air Hogs Osprey today, and it's awesome.
However, I'd like to do this :
http://www.rcvideos.tv/rc-airplane-review-videos/vtol-osprey-on-board-camera-air-hogs-limited-edition-aircraft/

Which camera should I use ?

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=13447&aff=102873

I had one of these. My dog chewed on it so I am waiting for my next order to replace it.

The camera points out along the thin axis of it so it can easily be velcroed on to a small plane without having a huge draggy camera body sticking out.

Here is some test video of it strapped to a DLG.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqbtKNa7Q5M

noogles
Apr 5, 2005
Title text (optional; no images are allowed, only text)
HobbyKing has short course trucks now. I just bought one to muck around. I also bought the 1/16 monster beatle. Also to muck around with. This should be interesting.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14907

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=13449

I'm thinking of getting the HPI Blitz ESE kit. Can someone please talk me out of it?

vvvv dammit!

noogles fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Dec 7, 2010

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

noogles posted:

I'm thinking of getting the HPI Blitz ESE kit. Can someone please talk me out of it?

Can't help you there...I'll probably be getting a Blitz ESE kit for an annual summertime SC race here in the UK, and it'll be a shelf queen for the 51 weeks until the next race.

e: reading that web link for the HobbyKing truck made me do a double-take...they basically took the text I wrote for the HPI EU site and changed the spec to match what their truck comes with :) (full disclsoure, I've worked for HPI for 13 years)

TremorX
Jan 19, 2001

All Hail Big Hairy Mike

noogles posted:

I'm thinking of getting the HPI Blitz ESE kit. Can someone please talk me out of it?

No way, you want it. YOU MUST HAVE IT! Waiting for mine to get here is pure torture and I want someone to share my agony.

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008
How hosed would I be if I bought this heli?

http://www.xheli.com/walkeraheli-4f200-metal-rtf-lcd.html

I have never flown one before but i'd like to start.

IsaacNewton
Jun 18, 2005

You'd probably be more frustrated than you can imagine you can be. Flying a Fixed pitch or collective pitch heli as your first is so hard it's unimaginable.

Buy that one if you want, it'll be fun to fly eventually.. But start with a small coaxial heli (xheli have a few) before that. Also, get Real Flight 4.5 or any sim because you'll be saving thousands in repairs if you learn with a sim. Yes it's hard to fly an heli and frustrating as poo poo.


FYI, you can expect your 20+ first session flying that heli you linked to go like this;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIucwDgWDMc

Those blades go scary fast and can hurt the hell out of you if you don't learn properly. It's hard poo poo and this is a FYI.

wav3form
Aug 10, 2008

IsaacNewton posted:

You'd probably be more frustrated than you can imagine you can be. Flying a Fixed pitch or collective pitch heli as your first is so hard it's unimaginable.

Buy that one if you want, it'll be fun to fly eventually.. But start with a small coaxial heli (xheli have a few) before that. Also, get Real Flight 4.5 or any sim because you'll be saving thousands in repairs if you learn with a sim. Yes it's hard to fly an heli and frustrating as poo poo.


FYI, you can expect your 20+ first session flying that heli you linked to go like this;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIucwDgWDMc

Those blades go scary fast and can hurt the hell out of you if you don't learn properly. It's hard poo poo and this is a FYI.

Now that you've scared the hell out of me i'm going to buy it anyway! (warnings are well heeded)

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Costco near me (UK) is selling RC helis with what must be an 18" rotor diameter now (not to mention gadget websites, etc.)...I envision lots of broken parts, bruised hands and helis gathering dust starting Dec. 26th.

T1g4h
Aug 6, 2008

I AM THE SCALES OF JUSTICE, CONDUCTOR OF THE CHOIR OF DEATH!

krushgroove posted:

Costco near me (UK) is selling RC helis with what must be an 18" rotor diameter now (not to mention gadget websites, etc.)...I envision lots of broken parts, bruised hands and helis gathering dust starting Dec. 26th.

I have to ask, how much do they cost? I've been practicing with mini coaxials for a while now, at some point I want to upgrade to something a bit bigger. Unfortunately I don't see myself getting the cash to upgrade to some crazy expensive pro model anytime soon, so... :sigh:

IsaacNewton
Jun 18, 2005

T1G4h; I'd say your next step up would be a (still small) self-stabilized heli like the v120d1 unless you have a big indoor space to practice in. The point in having a smaller heli to practice with is because of their smaller mass. The less weight that is spinning around mean that they are less likely to break to a smoldering pile when you hit the corner of your expensive plasma TV. Now that is all assuming that you are learning indoor.

wav3form, you will love it. Then you will break it. That said you should get yourself a good crash pack right away if you don't want to be waiting on parts in the mail to fix your heli. A broken heli is commonly refered to as being 'benched' -- Your heli will be benched a lot. Get yourself comfortable tools, a lot of patience and start learning how to assemble them, fix them, do maintenance on them ETC. You too will know what a blade grip is, why the servo arm for the collective pitch needs to be at 90 degree when the collective is in the middle ETC.

gently caress, I hate helis but god damnit do I love flying them.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look

T1g4h posted:

I have to ask, how much do they cost? I've been practicing with mini coaxials for a while now, at some point I want to upgrade to something a bit bigger. Unfortunately I don't see myself getting the cash to upgrade to some crazy expensive pro model anytime soon, so... :sigh:

I don't know how much they'd cost in the US (assuming Costco USA has the same items) but they are pretty big coax models that probably aren't that expensive. They're 3-channel with an upward-blowing tail rotor at the back. Looks weird but I've seen something similar on a much smaller Venom heli. I would listen to IsaacNewton's advice, flying helis is more complicated than cars or planes even - to learn properly and not spend tons of money, you basically start really small and go up in size and/or control complexity with each new model.

TremorX
Jan 19, 2001

All Hail Big Hairy Mike

My son's Blitz RTR came yesterday.. I turned it over and.. well:



:downs:

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Congratulations! You get $100 gift cert* for catching that, it's a little-known promo program HPI has going. Sweet!

* not really - obviously slipped past QA but easily fixed if you have the tools

TremorX
Jan 19, 2001

All Hail Big Hairy Mike

krushgroove posted:

Congratulations! You get $100 gift cert* for catching that, it's a little-known promo program HPI has going. Sweet!

* not really - obviously slipped past QA but easily fixed if you have the tools

Yeah, I've already got in touch with customer service. It's two left suspension arms, hopefully they'll send me the right one. I thought it was just backwards or upside down until I got it apart.

I'm actually really impressed with how it's built. It's really easy to get apart and adjust.

TremorX fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Dec 10, 2010

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
Ah yes, forgot the arms aren't symmetrical. HPI USA customer service was/is pretty good about sending out parts though, so no worries. At least the truck is driveable, somewhat, in the meantime.

genuinebald
Jul 10, 2008

Use me! Only use ME!
Ok i'm chiming in.

Since we have deepest winter now my cars are resting under my bed. If I bun a new one this year my now 1 year old 1:8 stadium truck will get my winter bashing vehicle.

So now Pictures, sorry I made them on the Purchase day with my cellphone.



In the back is my 1:8 AWD Nitro Stadium Truck. This is a dangerous Monster. It weights around 6 kg. It has a 5,24 cm³ Motor (3 HP), and I'm glad I put a Failsafe into this thing. If this thing hits someone at full speed there will be injuries.

In the front is my 1:10 Tamiya Enzo ferrari. It was my entrance in the Nirto-RC world and it was a Build-Kit. So I really learned a lot by building this. But since the model is a few years old, the Motor needs a rebuilding. And its a street-racer so I can't use him as much as my Truck.

God I spent a fortune on spareparts...

I'll post better pics when I'm at home.

krushgroove
Oct 23, 2007

Disapproving look
I do love the Tamiya bodies, they are really really nice. But trim those body posts on the Enzo, please! It'll look a lot nicer without the smokestacks :)

You can find new engines on eBay pretty easily, usually, from guys who get RTR kits and upgrade immediately, or run a few tanks through their stock engines and quickly decide to get something faster. With people not running nitro so much during the winter you might be able to find a cheap new engine pretty easily.

genuinebald
Jul 10, 2008

Use me! Only use ME!

krushgroove posted:

I do love the Tamiya bodies, they are really really nice. But trim those body posts on the Enzo, please! It'll look a lot nicer without the smokestacks :)

Done. I have no idea why I didn't do this earlier.

Here better Pictures as promised:



And the innards:



For the Engine of the Enzo. I will probably replace it with a little beefier one in the Summer.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




So who's got RC stuff on their christmas list? I asked for some GWS floats for my T-28 so I can run it on the snow, and on water in the summer.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


My Turnigy Accucell6 and two lipo batteries showed up today, ended up getting to me much faster than I expected. The batteries don't quite fit in the stampede tray, but I think a velcro strap will keep them in place. I've got an old computer power supply laying around, so I think I'll take a shot at modifying it to use as a power source. Anything I should be aware of before I get started? There wasn't much in the way of documentation included.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
Yeah, put a load on the 5v rail of the psu. 1-2 amps is a good start. That'll stabilize the 12v output.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nerobro posted:

Yeah, put a load on the 5v rail of the psu. 1-2 amps is a good start. That'll stabilize the 12v output.

Might not even need to do that. Most of the chargers will work fine down to 10V. The PSU I modified with zero load on 5V still puts out about 11.7V.

As far as Christmas stuff, a new steering servo for the SC10; I haven't raced it yet but I don't like my odds of using a low-end ~15-year-old Futaba.

You Am I
May 20, 2001

Me @ your poasting

Phat_Albert posted:

So who's got RC stuff on their christmas list? I asked for some GWS floats for my T-28 so I can run it on the snow, and on water in the summer.
Not for Christmas, but early next year I am thinking of resurrecting my Tamiya 1/10 Mini and racing it again. However it will need a brushless motor, speedy, Lipo and receiver, aka the costly bits, to be competitive in that class.

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Git Mah Belt Son
Apr 26, 2003

Happy Happy Gators

Phat_Albert posted:

So who's got RC stuff on their christmas list? I asked for some GWS floats for my T-28 so I can run it on the snow, and on water in the summer.

I'm asking the wife for a RTF Champ plane. I've always wanted to get into RC Airplanes and it seemed like a relatively cheap and easy to learn way to check it out.

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