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fedka.com is usually recommended for Russian cameras, and the guy is based in the US. Prices are higher than ebay, but from what I hear, he tests everything and describes accurately. Other stuff that might be fun: you should be able to find a folder like an Agfa Isolette in that price range, but watch for bellows holes, sticky shutters, and stiff focus. If an ebay seller says that these things are tested and working fine, it probably is, but if they say "untested I don't know anything about cameras lol", I'd pass. Also, if you look hard enough, you might be able to find a TLR. These will be a bit more reliable (no bellows), and much more usable because they're easier to focus. Something like a Ciro-Flex, Rollop, Meopta Flexaret, or (occasionally) Yashica could be found for under $50.
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Dec 14, 2010 20:48
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Eurekapile posted:Sweet! Those are exactly what I'm looking for. Too bad they apparently only sell them from the Ukraine. I've ordered lots of stuff from Russia, Ukraine and Latvia. The stuff usually arrives in Canada faster than stuff from China. You do occasionally get a wonky piece, but as long as you go with popular sellers and do your research you'll be fine. Heck, I find the former Soviet Union sellers are usually more honest than the Americans.
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Dec 14, 2010 21:06
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HPL posted:I've ordered lots of stuff from Russia, Ukraine and Latvia. The stuff usually arrives in Canada faster than stuff from China. You do occasionally get a wonky piece, but as long as you go with popular sellers and do your research you'll be fine. Heck, I find the former Soviet Union sellers are usually more honest than the Americans. good to know. I just bought that one from my ebay link. They even accepted paypal! I have no problem delaying Christmas by a few days. Thanks guys.
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Dec 14, 2010 21:30
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I just got a Yashica Samurai X3 for about 30 bucks on ebay. Been wanting to play with half frames for a while, finally won an auction! Anyone else have one of these?
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Dec 15, 2010 22:01
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Cannister posted:Anybody have suggestions for finding cheap super 8 film? Keh's got 50' spools for 15-20 bucks (not sure how much footage 50' gets). My sister wants a super 8 camera for Christmas so I thought I'd snag some film too, but it's twice as expensive as the camera!
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Dec 16, 2010 03:19
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I have two old cameras with no strap lugs on the body. I don't want to use the everready cases because they breed mold, but the lack of a strap makes it hard for me to carry the camera around and protect it. Is there a way to solve this problem?
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Dec 16, 2010 23:47
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Do your cameras have tripod mounts? Gordy’s carries tripod–mount wrist straps. BlackRapid has a sling–style tripod–mount strap. Also, you can make the DIY R–Strap.
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Dec 17, 2010 00:01
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Spedman posted:I went down to local camera shop today who have some cool second hand cameras. I was looking at two Zeiss Super Ikonta's in fairly good condition and asked for a price, $1200 and $1500 AUD, "they hold their value" he said. I said "cheers" and walked out. Camera shops are getting their lunch eaten by the internet nowadays, I wish more would buy up cheap ebay cameras, test/CLA them and sell them for a modest markup...you would know you're supporting a local business and that the camera will work. I guess that's the kind of thing that KEH is already doing, but it's a shame to see places like the local shop go out of business because they didn't keep up with the times.
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Dec 17, 2010 09:24
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Sushi in Yiddish posted:Camera shops are getting their lunch eaten by the internet nowadays, I wish more would buy up cheap ebay cameras, test/CLA them and sell them for a modest markup...you would know you're supporting a local business and that the camera will work. There's a place here in San Francisco called Discount Camera. It's been there for YEARS and it is by a good margin the most expensive camera place in the city. In some cases their used gear is 10x the reliable going rate on Ebay. They sell new products over MSRP. It's unbelievable that they can still compete. They're in the financial district so it's not like they can really count on suckering tourists, either. I don't know how they do it.
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Dec 17, 2010 19:34
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The first time a photolab hosed up an order: It was also my first time at Icon in LA. $3.50 for 4x5 E6 and C41. It said E6 in the receipt but i noticed the 4x5 envelop had C41 printed on the top as I was driving back home. *gulp* I called and they said to bring it in next time, so hopefully I can get some free dev later :-/
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Dec 18, 2010 01:22
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If I were to be having a metering issue with my Nikon N2020, would it be more economical to have it recalibrated or just buy some other cheap metering Nikon body? If the recalibration was the best way to go about it, is there any place you would recommend?
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Dec 18, 2010 02:16
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Stregone posted:I just got a Yashica Samurai X3 for about 30 bucks on ebay. Been wanting to play with half frames for a while, finally won an auction! Anyone else have one of these? I have two Samurais and the flash adapter and yashica cs-140 flash. You can get some pretty good results in good lighting. scanning is kind of a pain but its easier if you want to keep the two frames together.
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Dec 19, 2010 05:02
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Argh. I decided to use a spreadsheet to help inventory stuff while cleaning my horrible mess of an apartment... turns out that I had about 140 rolls of film kicking around between my fridge, cabinets, bags, and coat pockets, plus another sixty or so rolls worth of Plus-X and Tri-X 320 in my bulk loaders. I should probably just retire the dSLR for awhile - and maybe take out a damned loan for all that C-41 processing.
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Dec 19, 2010 06:53
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8th-samurai posted:Now you are ready to pour in chemicals. The system is light tight at this point so feel free to come out of the closet (or where ever). Make sure your solutions are all about 20 degrees centigrade. 20 degrees Celsius is 68 Fahrenheit. My apartment is kept pretty warm (I have no control over the heating), and currently it is 74 degrees. Should I open a window to try and cool it down, or is 74 degrees close enough to start working? I already have the roll in the tank. My other question: when I was ratcheting it on the auto loader the last bit of film didn't seem to connect and was hanging loose. It was a 36 exposure roll. Could it be I didn't trim off enough off the front and the end of the roll? Or maybe the 36 exposure rolls are longer and don't wrap around the auto load reel all the way? Anyway, I can't go back now so hopefully it won't mess it up too much. Edit: I think I answered my own question on the temperature thing. I guess I just use this. Mannequin fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Dec 19, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 07:02
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Mannequin posted:20 degrees Celsius is 68 Fahrenheit. My apartment is kept pretty warm (I have no control over the heating), and currently it is 74 degrees. Should I open a window to try and cool it down, or is 74 degrees close enough to start working? I already have the roll in the tank.
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Dec 19, 2010 07:14
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Yeah, I've got the thermometer in the solution. Another question: do I have to blend the developer + water together before pouring it in or I can I put 300ml of water and 9ml of developer separately?
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Dec 19, 2010 07:15
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Mix your dilution before adding it to the tank. e: Also, take the temp of the dilution (dev + water), not just the developer.
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Dec 19, 2010 07:17
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Hmm, one thing not made clear by the guide on page 1 is how much fixer is needed for one roll, and how much perma wash? Surely not 1 whole liter of fixer... Edit: Also, how long do you leave the water in after you have poured out the developer? Mannequin fucked around with this message at 07:44 on Dec 19, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 07:42
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Mannequin posted:Hmm, one thing not made clear by the guide on page 1 is how much fixer is needed for one roll, and how much perma wash? Surely not 1 whole liter of fixer... The volume should be listed on the bottom of your dev tank for any given solution. the solution you make based on what the box/bottle says quote:Edit: Also, how long do you leave the water in after you have poured out the developer? For roll film: I fill with cold water, shake for a few seconds, and pour out 3x then move on to the next step. Sheet: submerge and agitate for a 5-10 seconds in cold water bath.
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Dec 19, 2010 10:02
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guidoanselmi posted:The volume should be listed on the bottom of your dev tank for any given solution. It lists the developer, not fixer information: 8th-samurai posted:Dilution 'B' Recipe: But when he jumps down to the next steps, he says: 8th-samurai posted:stop bath: To stop the developers action when the appropriate time has arrived. Not needed use water. For the stop bath he doesn't list how much, but I will go with the amount you listed. For fixer, he says he makes up 1 liter at a time, is that just for convenience so he can use it later or because you actually need 1 liter? For permawash he doesn't list any quantities. I want to measure these all out and make sure they are at consistent temperatures before I start pouring them in my tank. I will send him a PM, maybe he can answer my questions.
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Dec 19, 2010 17:27
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Mannie, you mix the fixer up to the concentration listed on the bottle. You will need enough of whatever chemical you are using to cover the film, at least. If you use less, it may take a longer time to fix your film properly as the solution gets weaker. There's no incentive to put less than the tank will hold in, because you save the fixer until the solution is depleted. Just mix up 1 liter and store it. Do not put anything besides wash water down the drain until it is all used up, and fixer NEVER goes in the drain.
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Dec 19, 2010 17:38
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Paul MaudDib posted:You will need enough of whatever chemical you are using to cover the film, at least. I have no idea how much that is. Should I just guess, then dilute it 1:3? Paul MaudDib posted:There's no incentive to put less than the tank will hold in, because you save the fixer until the solution is depleted. What do you mean save it? Pour it out to re-use it? How can I do this if I eventually put Permawash in there? Sorry, I have not done this in 17 years and I'm trying to go by the OP's instructions.
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Dec 19, 2010 19:16
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I'm not sure what fixer you have. I have Ilford Rapid Fixer and it's also a 1:3 dilution, so that would seem like a good place to start. Most tanks have the required volume on the bottom. All are pretty much the same, for 1x135-36 it should be something like 400ml. A full 2-reel tank is around 600-700ml. Be careful if you are using very dilute solutions, there are sometimes minimum amounts of developer that you must maintain per roll regardless of the amount needed to cover the film. HC-110 is supposedly like this but it's never been an issue for me. You save the chemicals in their own individual bottles. I.e. mix up a 1L working solution of fixer, pour it in and fix, pour it back into the bottle of fixer solution. Then you rinse the tank with 2 tanks of water, and pour in the permawash/fixer remover. That goes back in the bottle of working solution of permawash, etc. You don't have to rinse between every chemical, the goal here is to get the fixer off so the permawash can work. e: And just to repeat, don't put fixer down the drain. Anything more than the amount in the wash-water will probably poison your septic tank or waterways. Everything but rinse water and one-shot developer solutions can and should be reused. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Dec 19, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 19:32
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Thanks for the tips, I will give this a try in a little bit. I bought everything on the Amazon wishlist that was posted, save for some of the clips because I already had those. I have the HC-110 developer.Paul MaudDib posted:e: And just to repeat, don't put fixer down the drain. Anything more than the amount in the wash-water will probably poison your septic tank or waterways. Everything but rinse water and one-shot developer solutions can and should be reused. No problem, I definitely will not pour any of this stuff down the drain.
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Dec 19, 2010 20:05
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Mannequin posted:stuff I guess I could have been clearer. I mix up small batches of developer because I don't reuse it, so it's more economical to make just enough. Fixer I make up a liter and just fill the tank to the top with it. I get rid of it at a recycling center when clip testing shows that it takes twice as long as fresh stuff to fix the film. Same deal with perma wash, I make up a liter and just fill the tank with it. That stuff goes down the drain when the rinse cycle is done. I suppose you could use just 300ml of each per roll but frankly I just pour them in the tank. Water only needs a short amount of time to stop most of the film development. I haven't really done any tests to see how long is necessary. What I do is pour water in and leave it for at least 10 or 15 mins without agitation. Then I do a few inversions and pour it out. This lets a tiny bit of developer keep working on the shadow detail. You would most likely be fine with just 5 or 10 inversions and pouring it out if you are in a hurry.
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Dec 19, 2010 22:46
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guidoanselmi posted:The first time a photolab hosed up an order: Are your sure it was developing? It looks a hell of a lot like what my 220 looked like when I accidentally loaded it backwards.
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Dec 20, 2010 02:02
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Um...can you load in 4x5 backwards? I've only shot B&W without ever caring (or noticing) which side the emulsion was on.
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Dec 20, 2010 08:41
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Yes, very, very easily. http://www.largeformatphotography.info/loading.html It looks like you did load it backwards, seeing as the edge coding looks fine, colour-wise, and that that isn't what provia looks like cross-processed. http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=xpro+provia 365 Nog Hogger fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Dec 20, 2010 |
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Dec 20, 2010 09:06
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guidoanselmi posted:Um...can you load in 4x5 backwards? I've only shot B&W without ever caring (or noticing) which side the emulsion was on. Some people even do it intentionally: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redscale
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Dec 20, 2010 11:17
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Well don't I feel like a moron. I've shot probably 20 sheets of BW and none of them turned out this way. I had really expired 120 ektrachrome which turned out like this when crossprocessed so I figure it might be possible as the provia's a bit expired too. Oh well.
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Dec 21, 2010 00:44
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Spent all day organizing my negatives, finished up my 35mm, tomorrow I start my 120 
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Dec 21, 2010 03:47
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guidoanselmi posted:Well don't I feel like a moron. I've shot probably 20 sheets of BW and none of them turned out this way. If you had shot B&W backwards it would just look a little fuzzy since the antihalation layer is in the way. Color film though is designed in layers so backwards the red layer gets way too much light.
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Dec 21, 2010 05:17
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8th-samurai posted:If you had shot B&W backwards it would just look a little fuzzy since the antihalation layer is in the way. Color film though is designed in layers so backwards the red layer gets way too much light. Backwards shot BW apparently doesn't look too bad at all from what I've heard, in that it doesn't look any softer, but it is 2 stops or so under exposed. There was a guy I saw on flickr a long time ago who was doing this on purpose (shooting through the antihilation layer) and getting some cool results.
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Dec 22, 2010 04:30
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Just got a 1978 Pentax MX /w 28mm 2.8 lens for YOSPOS Secret Santa. I'm really excited to start experimenting with film. I already ran a roll through it.   Anyone else shoot manual Pentax? Should I invest in a negative scanner? What's the most common workflow for getting their pictures digitized in a good quality?
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Dec 23, 2010 17:40
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Mightaswell posted:Anyone else shoot manual Pentax? Should I invest in a negative scanner? What's the most common workflow for getting their pictures digitized in a good quality? If you plan on shooting film regularly, a scanner is a must because getting the lab to do it will get expensive and you'll have more control over the quality with your own scanner. And yes, Pentax film gear rocks. The ME Super SE is my weapon of choice with Pentax. I shoot Olympus film SLRs because they have good features, but the Pentax is so slick and nice to use.
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Dec 23, 2010 17:44
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Mightaswell posted:Just got a 1978 Pentax MX /w 28mm 2.8 lens for YOSPOS Secret Santa. That's a hell of a Secret Santa gift. Nice. I mostly shoot with a Pentax K1000, I love the thing. Great camera. Also got a pair of M42 screwmount bodies and a mount adapter so my box full of super-cheap craigslist/thrift store lenses can go on my Pentax stuff. If you want a really cheap but dependable lens to compliment that 28mm, track down one of the SMC M 50mm lenses. I've got the F/2 ($20 used price at KEH), but the F/1.7 ($40ish) or the F/1.4 ($80) versions are quite affordable too. How much are you looking to spend on a scanner, and what's your goal with it? How much quality do you need? If you're just trying to get film into a web-friendly format, drugstore prints scanned onto any cheap flatbed should be okay. For good print-quality enlargements though, it'll cost you. I picked up an Epson V600 for $150ish, I can get pretty reasonable 8x12" prints out of those negative scans... but a V700 (~$500+) or a dedicated film scanner would be a lot better. Dr. Cogwerks fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Dec 23, 2010 |
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Dec 23, 2010 17:54
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:That's a hell of a Secret Santa gift. Nice. Thanks for the recommendations. I'll be looking into Epson flatbeds and the lenses you mentioned. The pictures I posted were wal-mart prints scanned by a flatbed.
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Dec 23, 2010 18:28
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Finally found a good deal on an Olympus XA ... after looking for so many months. I guess it'll arrive at some time in February given the UK post.
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Dec 24, 2010 00:40
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Mightaswell posted:Just got a 1978 Pentax MX /w 28mm 2.8 lens for YOSPOS Secret Santa. The MX is a loving great camera, I'm jealous. The viewfinder is enormous, the matte screen is very coarse, and it has a split prism. I have that lens, in my experience it's soft wide open but stop down and it's a great lens for tight spaces. I agree with Cogwerks, get a 50mm. The f/1.7 are reputed to be sharpest, the f/1.4 is fast and the f/2 is cheap. If you can find it, the "SMC Pentax" series are slightly nicer than the "SMC Pentax-M" series. The 55mm f/1.8 and 50/1.4 from SMCP are both pretty nice. For scanners, I would look at the Epson V500, it's <$200 and Good Enough (tm). Looks like you're already getting some good shots. 
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Dec 24, 2010 01:32
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I'm such a klutz, left my paper bag full of film in the hostel at the very end of my vacation  Backpacking 11.3 kg photo gear/tripod is ridiculous even when tuk tuk drivers are only $15/day to carry your bags. Hurray for light film bodies! I have already bought 2 boxes of Tri-X 400 and a box of Ektar 100 for my next trip. But in the mean time, I really need to hone my technical and creative skills because film can be very punishing if you are not careful  I really love my flea market EOS 500N + 17-40. But I probably do need to get a better replacement or at least a replacement with a silent red dot AF focus. Instead of a film SLR, goons at the Point and shoot thread recommend a film point and shoot. A ricoh GR-1s costs arouynd 360-500 in my town but there were a few Olympus XA, X4A and plentiful of canonnet "something". I'm really curious about premium film point and shoots but according to research even the famous Leica minilux is prone to brick due to the shutter error code Hopefully I can find something which will last! Or a more affordable GR-1s. The hyperfocal function sounds amazing! Suggestions welcome, my max budget is $200 for a premium point and shoot. $250 if I can be thoroughly convinced.And one last thing, is AGFHA back from bankruptcy or is it just a shell of a name like polaroid? I bought a roll of colour 200 but it have no idea on its quality...
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Dec 24, 2010 19:02
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