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Space Gopher posted:What exactly are you looking to do? I just want to overclock a 2.8GHZ AMD Phenom II X6 1055t a bit more than it can handle (3.4 GHZ would be fine). I primarily need the CPU for 2D animation and gaming. I just figured that getting a hexacore Phenom and overclocking it would be a better value and have more or less the same performance as buying a more expensive i5 or even i7. Plus I can upgrade to a high end Bulldozer CPU after 2 or 3 years.
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Dec 19, 2010 16:28
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Zorilla posted:Most laptop models support a few different panels, but your best bet is to get one with the exact same part number as the old one, right down to the revision number. I don't really trust sellers to get their compatibility lists right and it's usually cheaper this way than ordering by compatibility as well. The part number should be written somewhere on the rear of the panel itself. Thanks! I'll just search for the part number instead of the laptop model number.
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Dec 19, 2010 17:14
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Shaocaholica posted:Just found this gem of a discussion on the topic: Well, I guess the OptiPlex fans I salvaged are uncommon 
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Dec 19, 2010 17:34
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Derpes Simplex posted:Well, I guess the OptiPlex fans I salvaged are uncommon gently caress it. not worth the effort.
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Dec 19, 2010 18:35
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Will the Synology DiskStation DS411J take harddrives of different sizes at the same time? I can only confirm that it maxes out at 4 x 2TB.
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Dec 19, 2010 18:38
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Lilleput posted:Will the Synology DiskStation DS411J take harddrives of different sizes at the same time? I can only confirm that it maxes out at 4 x 2TB. You might want to ask this in the NAS thread.
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Dec 19, 2010 19:02
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It's questionable if this fits here, but it's far too brief for its own HoTS thread: I saw that two Christmas balloons had fell against the back of my computer. I've been paranoid about ESD lately, and balloons pick up fucktons of it. I'm being silly, right? vv - Ah, thanks! 
Seven Round Things fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Dec 20, 2010 |
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Dec 19, 2010 22:20
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Seven Round Things posted:It's questionable if this fits here, but it's far too brief for its own HoTS thread: I saw that two Christmas balloons had fell against the back of my computer. I've been paranoid about ESD lately, and balloons pick up fucktons of it. I'm being silly, right?
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Dec 20, 2010 00:27
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As someone who's built more than a few computers in the past, I can't believe I'm asking this, but here goes: if I want to buy a finished computer, what's the best brand nowadays? I'm mostly a Mac person now but might need a low to mid-range PC desktop soon. I don't feel like picking components or putting things together. (please tell me something other than Dell)
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Dec 20, 2010 11:40
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david06 posted:As someone who's built more than a few computers in the past, I can't believe I'm asking this, but here goes: if I want to buy a finished computer, what's the best brand nowadays? I'm mostly a Mac person now but might need a low to mid-range PC desktop soon. I don't feel like picking components or putting things together. Honestly if you buy a Dell and then pay like $90 extra to get the higher level warranty/tech support at purchase time, they're great.
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Dec 20, 2010 18:57
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david06 posted:As someone who's built more than a few computers in the past, I can't believe I'm asking this, but here goes: if I want to buy a finished computer, what's the best brand nowadays? I'm mostly a Mac person now but might need a low to mid-range PC desktop soon. I don't feel like picking components or putting things together. In Canada there's a site just like Newegg that for an extra $30 builds your computer and ships it. EDIT - I think it's ncix. If you want value/performance ratio than just look on Newegg for pre-built PC's, unless you really want a "big brand" computer. In that case it would be between Dell and HP if you're looking for a value/performance combo, and I'd feel dirty from purchasing from any of those brands. punk rebel ecks fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Dec 20, 2010 |
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Dec 20, 2010 19:13
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david06 posted:As someone who's built more than a few computers in the past, I can't believe I'm asking this, but here goes: if I want to buy a finished computer, what's the best brand nowadays? I'm mostly a Mac person now but might need a low to mid-range PC desktop soon. I don't feel like picking components or putting things together. There's a great market for last gen workstations if you're into those. They are always much nicer to work on than the consumer models. I could check out older Dell and HP worksations.
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Dec 21, 2010 06:22
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So, this is concerning dual GPU video cards. For instance, the HD4870X2, comes with 2GB of memory with 1GB attached to each GPU. I take it the memory isn't really shared at all so any app/game that loads a texture or some other data into that memory has to load it twice for each GPU so as far as memory capacity its really the same limitation as a single GPU card with half the memory right?
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Dec 21, 2010 06:28
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I have a motherboard with SATA 3.0 ports which I never used so far. The thing is, ever since I built my computer it would inform me during boot that there are no hard drives detected yet everything works fine. The SATA II ports are designated from 1 to 6 so I'm really confused. Should I be hooking up my main hard drive to the SATA 3.0 port? I'm buying a new hard drive and I'd like to hook up everything in a certain order so I know exactly which hard drives is connected to each port. I'm probably not gonna mess up anything anyway but I'd just like to be in the clear.
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Dec 21, 2010 06:54
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Storm- posted:I have a motherboard with SATA 3.0 ports which I never used so far. The thing is, ever since I built my computer it would inform me during boot that there are no hard drives detected yet everything works fine. The SATA II ports are designated from 1 to 6 so I'm really confused.
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Dec 21, 2010 06:55
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punk rebel ecks posted:If you want value/performance ratio than just look on Newegg for pre-built PC's, unless you really want a "big brand" computer. In that case it would be between Dell and HP if you're looking for a value/performance combo, and I'd feel dirty from purchasing from any of those brands. Most of the prebuilt brands on Newegg, like Cyberpower and Ibuypower, are poo poo. Why would you feel "dirty" buying from Dell? For lower-end systems, they're great. They can build and deliver a computer to you for less than what it would cost for you to order a pile of parts and an OS, because they get obscene volume discounts and operate on thin margins. They make their profits via upselling; if you don't need a gaming system, and wait for something good to pop up on sale or in the outlet, you can get some great deals. You can even turn them into decent low-midrange gaming systems (capable of medium-high details at 1680x1050, and medium at 1080p) with a <$100 video card. Dell's only a really bad value if you try to compare them to a self-built high-performance system spec-for-spec. If you play to their strengths, you can come away with some good deals. They're not great if you want a high-performance gaming system, but for everyday computing and light games, you can do very well. Shaocaholica posted:So, this is concerning dual GPU video cards. For instance, the HD4870X2, comes with 2GB of memory with 1GB attached to each GPU. I take it the memory isn't really shared at all so any app/game that loads a texture or some other data into that memory has to load it twice for each GPU so as far as memory capacity its really the same limitation as a single GPU card with half the memory right? That's correct. There are two ways to share memory between processors. The first is to connect both to a common memory controller. That's not an option with consumer GPUs, because the memory controller is an integral part of the chip. The second is to give each processor its own memory controller and access to a fraction of the total memory, and set up a really wide pipe between the two. This introduces some serious technical issues (certain chunks of data have more latency, and it changes depending on which processor is doing the work), as well as significant die area for the link capability that would go unused on single-GPU models. It turns out to be vastly simpler and cheaper to just throw twice the memory on dual-GPU cards.
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Dec 21, 2010 07:27
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Special note for the people on the last page talking about doing a motherboard/cpu/video swap under Windows 7 (or Vista). I've done this a few times with little or no difficulty in the last several years but one thing I DID notice that cropped up was that changing your hardware that significantly can break your Windows "DRM". In windows media player if you go to the help/about section there's a lot of different versions of things listed but after swapping out the motherboard/cpu for me the DRM field will show up empty instead of having a version listed there. I believe that having that broken made DLNA (network streaming video/music) stop working on my computer. After hours of web searching and trying all kinds of supposed solutions (deleting certain folders/file/registry entries, etc), I finally found something released by Napster of all things called the Napster DRM Reset tool. It worked like a charm. I don't have a link handy but googling it should provide some helpful info. Note that if you happen to have any DRM'ed content like movies/music it will mess with your licenses (you have to export them first or something then reimport them). I have never had anything like that on my system so it wasn't a concern.
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Dec 22, 2010 23:40
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I just signed up for AT&T DSL and I'm trying to figure out what kind of modem will work with it. I was previously using an Arris Touchstone Telephony Modem TM602G with comcast but on their website (http://www.arrisi.com/product_catalog/listers/index.asp?id=418) it says nothing about ADSL which I think is what I need. If the Arris modem won't work with DSL can anyone recommend a decent cheap ADSL modem that will work with AT&T DSL?
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Dec 23, 2010 01:11
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Gremlin posted:If the Arris modem won't work with DSL can anyone recommend a decent cheap ADSL modem that will work with AT&T DSL?
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Dec 23, 2010 01:21
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Alereon posted:Yeah that's an old cable modem, which won't work with DSL (or current cable service). Can you get AT&T to let you rent a modem from them, or recommend one? (usually they have a recommended list) It's always best to use an ISP-provided modem, otherwise they'll just blame your modem every time you have a problem. They wouldn't let me rent one for some odd reason. Instead they tried to sell me one for $100 which sounded pretty outrageous so I just said I'd buy one myself. When I asked for a recommendation all she could tell me is that the ones they use are made by Motorola. I found a bunch of ~$20 ADSL modems on google but I have no previous experience with buying a modem so I'm not really sure how well those cheap ones would work. EDIT: Just found a Netopia 2241N on eBay for $25! Gremlin fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Dec 23, 2010 |
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Dec 23, 2010 01:26
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punk rebel ecks posted:I just want to overclock a 2.8GHZ AMD Phenom II X6 1055t a bit more than it can handle (3.4 GHZ would be fine). I'm in the middle of building a Phenom II X6 system and I grabbed this motherboard. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128445&cm_re=gigabyte_ud2h-_-13-128-445-_-Product If you head to Gigabyte's website and read the user manual, there are some pretty ridiculous options in the BIOS.
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Dec 23, 2010 01:57
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This thread may help me out. I built my first PC 3 years ago. I had no knowledge really beforehand on how to most efficiently setup everything such as the BIOS and all that (still don't) and built my current computer (2nd) also for gaming (hardware wise). Is it really just plug all the stuff in and turn the son of a bitch on? Both computers I've built I did just that and everything seems to be peachy. The only BIOS settings I've ever really tweaked with is raising the voltage to RAM to match what I saw what the RAM drew on Newegg. As for partitioning, is it beneficial to create a special partition for Windows or just install it in the vast emptiness of a new hard drive along with everything else, because I've been doing the latter for years. I never really understood partitions. I keep all drivers up to date (mostly).
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Dec 23, 2010 07:28
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jagdtiger00 posted:This thread may help me out. I built my first PC 3 years ago. I had no knowledge really beforehand on how to most efficiently setup everything such as the BIOS and all that (still don't) and built my current computer (2nd) also for gaming (hardware wise).
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Dec 23, 2010 07:44
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Alereon posted:These days the BIOS generally comes set up pretty well by default, you can tweak things if you want but the only major stuff is to make sure AHCI is enabled on your SATA controller (don't change this after Windows is installed without knowing the consequences) and your memory settings are correct. I'd recommend against partitioning your harddrive, it's just setting yourself up for a situation where you run out of space on the OS partition. Yeah along with voltage on the RAM I make sure the timings are correct. Is AHCI usually enabled by default? What happens if it is disabled? I'm scared now! jagdtiger00 fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Dec 23, 2010 |
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Dec 23, 2010 08:17
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I think AHCI is usually enabled by default. AHCI is what makes advanced SATA features like NCQ (and Trim for SSDs) work, if it's turned off your drives will run more slowly. You can't just swap the setting because it changes what driver Windows needs to use to talk to your SATA controller, so if you change it out from under Windows it won't have the right driver on next reboot.
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Dec 23, 2010 11:47
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Alereon posted:I think AHCI is usually enabled by default This isn't completely true. They might be finally turning that way, but Gigabyte boards are (were?) all IDE Emulation. I didn't know that when I installed, and tried to change it to AHCI and you know the rest. Always make sure it's AHCI before you install. Realistically you'll never notice the difference, unless someone is pushing huge file transfers. Speaking of which, is there a way to install the proper controllers so you can reboot and change the drive type without reinstalling?
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Dec 23, 2010 14:56
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Gothmog1065 posted:Always make sure it's AHCI before you install. Realistically you'll never notice the difference, unless someone is pushing huge file transfers. AHCI doesn't make a big difference on sustained reads. The performance improvements come from native command queuing, which lets the drive reorder requests to match the physical layout of data on the platters, like so. This is most helpful when the drive has a bunch of small reads scattered over the disk. I've never done a blind test or anything, but I'd say the difference is fairly noticeable. Enabling it after you've installed with IDE emulation is easy. All that happens is Windows disables drivers not necessary for boot, in order to streamline the boot process. If you go to HKLM\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\MSAHCI, and set Start to 0, it'll enable the built-in AHCI driver.
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Dec 23, 2010 21:10
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Gremlin posted:They wouldn't let me rent one for some odd reason. Instead they tried to sell me one for $100 which sounded pretty outrageous so I just said I'd buy one myself. When I asked for a recommendation all she could tell me is that the ones they use are made by Motorola. I would like you to keep in mind with at&t, if you have any issue with connections (there are also some things you'll need to change in your modem configs to achieve dsl sync, check dslreports for you region/modem and you'll usually find something)and call att about it, they will NOT help you because you are using unsupported hardware (aka not provided by them). If they ever get on record you are using unsupported equipment, and put it in your notes, even if you go to using something you buy directly from them, all problems then become your issue. I live in an older neighborhood, and had a horrible drop from the pole. Any hint of thunderstorm and I'd lose connectivity for 3-4 hours. Any actual rain and I'd lose connectivity all night, but since I started with an actiontech, and they even had a line tech say that the line was shorting, the drop was my issue and not theirs.
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Dec 24, 2010 18:21
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Samsung's website is poo poo, so I'm asking here: I have a number of Spinpoint F4 HD204UI drives (2 TB, advanced format). I want to verify that they are advanced format. Their disk information reports 512 byte sectors for both logical and physical sector size. The Samsung partition align tool doesn't see them as advanced format drives and refuses to align anything. The Western Digital tool (for the Green EARS line and etc.) sees them as advanced format drives and says the partitions are unaligned. This is an issue both in Windows Home Server (i.e. Server 2003) and in Linux. I can't verify that things are as they should be. E: In fact, Samsung's US website does not mention the HD204UI at all.  It just has a lovely Global site page.
Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Dec 25, 2010 |
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Dec 25, 2010 10:54
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I just installed and Audigy X-Fi and Windows installed it's own drivers first as usual and I followed up with the real drivers from Creative. How do I know that the Real drivers are being used instead of the stock Windows ones?
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Dec 25, 2010 19:37
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Travic posted:I just installed and Audigy X-Fi and Windows installed it's own drivers first as usual and I followed up with the real drivers from Creative. How do I know that the Real drivers are being used instead of the stock Windows ones?
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Dec 25, 2010 19:39
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Alereon posted:Control Panel, System, Device Manager, right-click on the device, select Properties, driver tab, look at the driver version, date, and provider. It said they're Windows drivers. I have sound, so how do I switch it over. An even bigger question do I want to? I have sound, but I'd feel I'd get more out of it using the Creative Drivers. Running Windows 7 by the way.
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Dec 25, 2010 22:57
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Howdy, I have an AOC 22" widescreen monitor. I've been using it for my xbox 360 as well as normal PC usage. I'm tired of switching plugs whenever I want to do something different, so I'm looking to pick up an adapter for the monitor. I have a GeForce 8600 GTS. I have the xbox plugged into the normal spot on the monitor. There is a second spot for a 'D-Sub' attachment, can someone point me in the right direction for what I need? Thanks in advance.
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Dec 26, 2010 02:04
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Assuming you're using HDMI on the Xbox, get a HDMI switch on Monoprice.
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Dec 26, 2010 02:09
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I'm using the VGA-> DVI adapter it's called I believe. I have one of the Jasper 360s. My monitor doesn't have an HDMI port....I think. That means i'm only getting 1080i, right?
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Dec 26, 2010 02:21
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ForbiddenWonder posted:I'm using the VGA-> DVI adapter it's called I believe. I have one of the Jasper 360s. My monitor doesn't have an HDMI port....I think. That means i'm only getting 1080i, right?
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Dec 26, 2010 05:14
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I was wondering if the front usb ports on computers had some sort of power limitations or something. Earlier I had my new iTouch plugged into port 1 and then I plugged in my Pantech 4g modem into slot 2 and my iTouch unsynched itself from itunes, I've tried it a couple of more times but it doesn't seem to want to do it again.
runaway dog fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Dec 26, 2010 |
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Dec 26, 2010 07:20
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4000 Dollar Suit posted:I was wondering if the frond usb ports on computers had some sort of power limitations or something. Earlier I had my new iTouch plugged into port 1 and then I plugged in my Pantech 4g modem into slot 2 and my iTouch unsynched itself from itunes, I've tried it a couple of more times but it doesn't seem to want to do it again.
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Dec 26, 2010 07:28
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Yeah I'm able to replicate it now with 100 percent accuracy, Just tried it with a G110 Keyboard and my ipod Classic and the problem didn't persist, so I'm assuming it's the Modem, which I've had nothing but issues with since I got it so I'm not the least bit surprised, just another problem to add to the list. Seems like plugging the modem in the back fixes it, I guess I can live with having my kb plugged into the front.
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Dec 26, 2010 08:17
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I have an Ipad, an Iphone, a vista laptop, 3 pcs, a 360 and a DS. I live in Australia and I need a new wireless router. What should I get?
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Dec 26, 2010 12:20
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