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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks kimbo, but if they're symmetric there really shouldn't be torque steer to one side specifically? The key factor in kimbo's very complete explanation is the how the axles aren't perfectly rigid. When torque is applied to it's inner side, the axle can't help but twist at the moment that torque is introduced resulting in a momentary reduction of the amount of torque that is applied to the wheel that it drives. Since one axle is shorter it tends to twist less than the other, longer axle which allows more of the engine's power to be used at that wheel. You mash the gas, both axles twist but one a little less than the other. That difference in applied power results in one wheel turning with slightly more force than the other and it tries to snap the wheel to one side or the other depending on which side has the longer axle. Are your tire pressures good? Any chance you've got a sticking brake caliper anywhere?
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Dec 15, 2010 02:07
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Quick question here, so my 2007 CPO'd A4 is coming up on its 35k service (bought it at 30k), how much should I expect to pay for the service on the basic stuff, of course assuming that nothing major is damaged/broken.
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Dec 15, 2010 02:49
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my1999gsr posted:Are your tire pressures good? Any chance you've got a sticking brake caliper anywhere? Tire pressures seem good and even, I don't think I have a sticking caliper (I'm assuming I'd feel something different when braking if that were the case?). I don't know, I think this might be normal and I've never noticed it before. If I point the car slightly to the left, for example, and step on the gas, it won't necessarily begin going off to the right but might continue to go to the left. Sometimes though it will start veering to the right either immediately or after going straight for a bit. I don't know, it's kind of hard to be sure about this because the road surfaces here are convex - if that makes sense? Like if you were to slice through the road you'd see that the surface isn't straight but curves down toward the right shoulder. Then again, it happens on highways too and they're not really made in the same way. Anyway, I'm probably overthinking it. I can always go to the alignment shop and ask them to re-check everything. I have two brand new rear tires also, so that might have something to do with it?
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Dec 15, 2010 04:20
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my1999gsr posted:Ok. Is this a newer A4, like 2010ish? This was the used like 1990 A4 Audi we were talking about before.
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Dec 15, 2010 04:32
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Autism Sundae posted:Tire pressures seem good and even, I don't think I have a sticking caliper (I'm assuming I'd feel something different when braking if that were the case?). I don't know, I think this might be normal and I've never noticed it before. Depending on where you are all the roads, some of the roads, or none of the roads may be angled in some way. It's a weather drainage thing and will affect how your tires wear as well. Some places will align your car with respect to this. I've never worried about drifting to a side unless it was a consistent issue. The info about the parts software makes sense sadly. I ordered the iPod interface for the stock stereo in my car and it took them a couple times to get the right one because of confusing information in their database.
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Dec 15, 2010 22:32
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Autism Sundae posted:Tire pressures seem good and even, I don't think I have a sticking caliper (I'm assuming I'd feel something different when braking if that were the case?). I don't know, I think this might be normal and I've never noticed it before. The last time I had a car aligned, I was told that they are ever so slightly set up to veer right. In the old days they used to be setup to compensate for the crown in the road, but since most roads are built properly these days that they set them just off center to the right so that you don't veer into oncoming traffic.
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Dec 15, 2010 23:27
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98 New Beetle: how the hell do you remove the license plate light lens? THE INTERNET says put a screwdriver in the slot at the top and lever it down, but I can't make it budge. Also... freezing e-brake cables. Anyone know a ballpark cost in parts and labor to have those R&Red?
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Dec 15, 2010 23:53
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YoYo posted:Quick question here, so my 2007 CPO'd A4 is coming up on its 35k service (bought it at 30k), how much should I expect to pay for the service on the basic stuff, of course assuming that nothing major is damaged/broken. Services like oil changes/spark plugs/air filter/pollen filter replacement can vary in price a great deal from dealer to dealer and location to location. I can't remember what the 35k service entails on your 2007 but I think it might be the larger one that includes the stuff I mentioned above. Maybe post your location - another goon might be able to help out with a clearer answer.
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Dec 15, 2010 23:53
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Bolkovr posted:98 New Beetle: how the hell do you remove the license plate light lens? THE INTERNET says put a screwdriver in the slot at the top and lever it down, but I can't make it budge. Brake cables - I think the cables go for about $30 each and the book time is about 1.2 hours. License plate lights - there's two versions of lights in your model year. One is like the internet says: just press down on a little tab at the top of the lens and pop the thing out. The second type is held in by 2 small philips head screws. The screw type is pretty obvious. Try pressing the lens inward while pushing on the lock tab.
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Dec 16, 2010 00:00
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I have a 2007 2-door GTI and want to replace the factory speakers. I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations for speakers that require little to no modding. I know there will be some because VW loving riveted them in. I am keeping the factory head unit and getting a JL cleansweep along with a JL stealthbox for the trunk. No clue what I should be putting in the doors/back though. Also, probably a stretch, but if anyone has any recommendations for reputable places in the Chicago area that could do an install like this, that would be awesome.
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Dec 16, 2010 02:38
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I was asking some questions a few months ago about the internals of my '98 Golf's electrical system. If anyone still cares, here's the result: http://vimeo.com/18066415
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Dec 22, 2010 00:36
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks kimbo, but if they're symmetric there really shouldn't be torque steer to one side specifically? To get completely tedious, I think I should clarify that the suspension (control arms, steering knuckles, etc. -- those are symmetric. But the axles that take power from the transmission and send it to each wheel -- those are not the same length on the driver and passenger sides. The reason is that FWD transmissions are usually not packaged with the differential in the middle of the car. So one axle ends up being longer.
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Dec 22, 2010 03:58
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Got it, thanks for the explanation. Here are the numbers for my alignment: Front: Left Camber (actual/specified range): -0.5 / -1.2 to -0.2 Caster (actual/specified range): 6.6 / 7.2 to 8.2 Toe (actual/specified range): 0.09 / 0.00 to 0.17 Turning angle diff: -1.70 to -1.03 (no actual # for this one) Front: Right Camber (actual/specified range): -0.9 / -1.2 to -0.2 Caster (actual/specified range): 6.7 / 7.2 to 8.2 Toe (actual/specified range): 0.10 / 0.00 to 0.17 Turning angle diff: -1.70 to -1.03 (no actual # for this one) Front: Cross Camber (actual/specified range): 0.3 / -0.5 to 0.5 Cross Caster (actual/specified range): -0.1 / -0.5 to 0.5 Total Toe (actual/specified range): 0.19 / 0.00 to 0.33 Rear: Left Camber (actual/specified range): -1.9 / -2.3 to -1.3 Toe (actual/specified range): 0.09 / -0.02 to 0.19 Rear: Right Camber (actual/specified range): -1.6 / -2.3 to -1.3 Toe (actual/specified range): 0.07 / -0.02 to 0.19 Rear: Cross Camber (actual/specified range): -0.3 / -0.5 to 0.5 Total Toe (actual/specified range): 0.16 / -0.04 to 0.38 Thrust Angle (actual/specified range): 0.01 / -0.33 to 0.33 So the only numbers that are slightly off from specified range are front left and right caster (6.6 and 6.7 degrees respectively vs 7.2 to 8.2 range). This is from this morning, I took it to the shop, they put the car up on the machine and said everything is fine. Anyone with some cool alignment knowledge who can clarify for this dumb goon?
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Dec 22, 2010 22:32
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I have a question actually: I am preparing to replace the pistons in my VW Rabbit 1.6l Diesel, I have to remove the ridge that has built up on it and it needs oversize pistons. How do I tell which pistons I have currently (I suspect they are OEM) without remeasuring the current cylinder bore? There is something stamped upon the pistons, but I cannot find any references for the markings I am planning on replacing the pistons with the turbo pistons as I have installed a turbocharger. CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Dec 22, 2010 |
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Dec 22, 2010 22:45
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Autism Sundae posted:So the only numbers that are slightly off from specified range are front left and right caster (6.6 and 6.7 degrees respectively vs 7.2 to 8.2 range). This is from this morning, I took it to the shop, they put the car up on the machine and said everything is fine. Anyone with some cool alignment knowledge who can clarify for this dumb goon? Some cars are more sensitive to caster than others. You could talk to a local shop that does performance alignments to your spec and see what the tech has to say about it; he might have a pet setup or be able to determine exactly what part of the setup is causing the problem. You could also have them reset it exactly back to the way the alignment used to be before the dealer 'fixed' it and see if that makes the problem go away (albeit at the cost of accelerated tire wear.. obviously, the tech would need to be consulted for specific adjustments). Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Dec 23, 2010 |
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Dec 23, 2010 04:25
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It's not the dealer doing the alignment in this case, it's a local tire/wheel shop. I'm also fairly sure that caster cannot be changed on these cars. Caster is out of spec from what I can tell, but it's even for both wheels.. should I give the repair shop a call and ask them what might be causing it? From what I've found online it might be from suspension damage. I wonder if my tires are going to get ruined quicker from this. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 06:23 on Dec 23, 2010 |
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Dec 23, 2010 06:18
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Here's a dumb question. Where is the battery on my new car? It's a 2010 Audi S4. There doesn't seem to be any exposed wiring or other evidence that the car even has one, with the exception that the car starts and runs fine. The manual says the battery is meant to be serviced by Audi, but I'd still like to know where the hell it is.
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Dec 23, 2010 10:34
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PoopinClumpin posted:Here's a dumb question. Where is the battery on my new car? It's a 2010 Audi S4. On my older one it was in the cowl at the base of the windshield.
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Dec 23, 2010 13:24
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Kylie Sven Opossum posted:On my older one it was in the cowl at the base of the windshield. Hidden under shittons of plastic. I just replaced the battery in my GLI a few weeks ago and it was a giant pain in the rear end.
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Dec 23, 2010 20:30
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Traction control kicked in for some weird reason when I was taking a corner today  Wasn't even going fast, it's just an exit that I took at maybe 15-20 mph. I guess it rained a bit yesterday so maybe the asphalt was still wet?
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Dec 23, 2010 21:19
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PoopinClumpin posted:Here's a dumb question. Where is the battery on my new car? It's a 2010 Audi S4. pics plz
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Dec 23, 2010 23:39
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veedubfreak posted:Hidden under shittons of plastic. I just replaced the battery in my GLI a few weeks ago and it was a giant pain in the rear end. When I had my '01 GTI I got so used to taking off 5 things to get to one thing that nothing bothers me anymore when working on cars.
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Dec 24, 2010 00:57
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Autism Sundae posted:Traction control kicked in for some weird reason when I was taking a corner today I have had it kick in on areas with gravel or uneven surfaces. There is a light at an angle by work that it kicks in if I am giving it enough speed when the light turns green. Also have had it happen on wet leaves. Seems like it does a pretty good job at preventing you from skidding.
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Dec 24, 2010 02:12
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Are there any common reasons that the CEL would be on for an '06 A4 2.0T? Sometimes it goes away for a while, and then it'll be back on. Dealer has no idea whats up. It's got ~130,000km on it, timing belt was done recently, brakes were done over the summer, all regular maintenance has been done on schedule at the dealership. I believe its had the diverter valve? (DV?) replaced once. It doesn't seem down on power, feels like it handles fine, fuel mileage is no worse than normal. Its an automatic, and as nothing seems to be wrong my parents aren't inclined to spend a whole lot of money diagnosing it, however in Ontario thats an instant fail on the emissions test.
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Dec 24, 2010 03:09
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JHVH-1 posted:I have had it kick in on areas with gravel or uneven surfaces. There is a light at an angle by work that it kicks in if I am giving it enough speed when the light turns green. Also have had it happen on wet leaves. Seems like it does a pretty good job at preventing you from skidding.  Yeah, I think it was wet leaves, the dudes with leafblowers weren't around due to rain so most small roads are covered with them. I don't really drive that fast when I'm just going to work, so TC kicking in on a slow corner surprised the poo poo out of me (I think it was both TC and XDS since I felt brakes clamping down too like someone stomping rapidly on the pedal).I've had TC come on at lights too, but usually when I floor it or if the road is wet enough.
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Dec 24, 2010 03:18
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PoopinClumpin posted:Here's a dumb question. Where is the battery on my new car? It's a 2010 Audi S4. Under the spare?
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Dec 24, 2010 04:09
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TrueChaos posted:Are there any common reasons that the CEL would be on for an '06 A4 2.0T? Sometimes it goes away for a while, and then it'll be back on. Dealer has no idea whats up. It's got ~130,000km on it, timing belt was done recently, brakes were done over the summer, all regular maintenance has been done on schedule at the dealership. I believe its had the diverter valve? (DV?) replaced once. It doesn't seem down on power, feels like it handles fine, fuel mileage is no worse than normal. Its an automatic, and as nothing seems to be wrong my parents aren't inclined to spend a whole lot of money diagnosing it, however in Ontario thats an instant fail on the emissions test. Try removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running (but don't leave it off for long - the car will run like crap and then stall). If it was difficult to remove then odds are you've got a failed/failing PCV valve. What's your local Audi dealer?
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Dec 24, 2010 06:44
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DogDodger posted:Under the spare? ^Yup. Your boost points are under the hood though.
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Dec 24, 2010 06:51
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Autism Sundae posted:
If you've been getting colder weather your tires will be a little less sticky as well so it won't be very hard to spin them with a little too much throttle.
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Dec 24, 2010 06:53
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Called the shop today to follow up and the alignment guy said that having slightly lower than recommended caster on front wheels is normal, even for cars straight from factory. Don't know if that's true or not, but seems to be fine as long as it's even for both wheels I guess.
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Dec 24, 2010 07:39
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my1999gsr posted:Try removing the oil filler cap while the engine is running (but don't leave it off for long - the car will run like crap and then stall). If it was difficult to remove then odds are you've got a failed/failing PCV valve. What's your local Audi dealer? Local audi dealer is http://www.agincourtautohaus.com/ on Sheppard in Toronto. Will try the oil filler cap test later this afternoon. E: Did the oil filler cap test -- how hard is normal? It was slightly more difficult to remove than when the car is off, but not by a lot. Do you have any recommendations on independent shops in Toronto, or other dealerships? Apparently this one has not been great in terms of the service department, but my parents are hesitant to take it anywhere that isn't recommended. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Dec 24, 2010 |
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Dec 24, 2010 19:10
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TrueChaos posted:Local audi dealer is http://www.agincourtautohaus.com/ on Sheppard in Toronto. Will try the oil filler cap test later this afternoon. With the engine running you should have no trouble pulling the oil filler cap off once you've turned it. When the PCV starts to fail it becomes more and more difficult to remove the filler cap. I had an Eos that was so bad that I couldn't remove the cap with pliers and the engine had actually started to suck air past the crank main seal which made a horrible moaning sound. I'd recommend Pfaff or Owasco in your area. I've been on course with a number of techs from both dealerships and they're very skilled. Of the 2 I would go to Pfaff - they're total pros with a lot of experience. If you're in the Kingston area you could drop by Kingston VW/Audi - they're a smaller dealer but they've got a couple of techs that have like 30 years of experience with the product.
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Dec 24, 2010 20:53
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my1999gsr posted:With the engine running you should have no trouble pulling the oil filler cap off once you've turned it. When the PCV starts to fail it becomes more and more difficult to remove the filler cap. I had an Eos that was so bad that I couldn't remove the cap with pliers and the engine had actually started to suck air past the crank main seal which made a horrible moaning sound. Once turned it seems to be only slightly harder to remove the oil filler cap than when the car is off, so I guess it could be just starting to fail. It looks like it'll get taken to Pfaff at some point, probably next week. Thanks for the recommendation!
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Dec 24, 2010 22:54
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On my 06 GLI I have been encountering an issue where the brake lights come on randomly after parking and turning it off. Seems to be about an hour after parking they come on. If I pump the brake they go off. If I try lifting up the brake pedal then release it the lights go on, then if I pump them once they turn off. Seems like this is a sensor issue.
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Dec 25, 2010 03:41
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DogDodger posted:Under the spare? Thanks guys. I wonder why they put it there. In any case it will be really easy to run a heavy gauge cable for amplifier power someday.
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Dec 25, 2010 04:10
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I saw a few questions regarding VAG cars for sale, and would like to get thoughts for this one I'm pretty close to picking up: http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1998-Audi-A4-Sedan-W0QQAdIdZ249377302 Aside from the fact that he can't spell, the car looks good, drives smooth and quiet, brakes nicely, no noises creaks or anything that doesn't work. He's a mechanic, and will sell it safetied through his shop if I pay for the paperwork. He'll also put it up in the air for me to check over when/if I go back to finalize. Questions: -Is it worth the price, seeing it seems in very good condition? It seems about par in the area. -Any issues I should look for that aren't covered here or in the ad? -Any good reason I shouldn't be buying this model or generation at all?
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Dec 26, 2010 17:23
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PoopinClumpin posted:Thanks guys. I wonder why they put it there. If it helps soothe your mind any I had an '83 BMW where the battery was in the rear right corner of the trunk. There was a space in the engine bay for the battery as well (instead it had mounts for jumper cables). As a side note I just want to say drat VW for FINALLY announcing an AWD golf for this next year. One month earlier and I would have held off on ditching the GLI until it came out. I do like the Audi I got though so I guess it works out.
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Dec 26, 2010 21:12
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mr.belowaverage posted:I saw a few questions regarding VAG cars for sale, and would like to get thoughts for this one I'm pretty close to picking up: Look for diff seal leaks, weak exhaust flex pipes, bad wheel bearings, torn CV boots and play in the front suspension links. Overall these A4's are pretty tough and durable so they tend to survive well with good maintenance.
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Dec 27, 2010 16:48
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Deget posted:If it helps soothe your mind any I had an '83 BMW where the battery was in the rear right corner of the trunk. There was a space in the engine bay for the battery as well (instead it had mounts for jumper cables). It's only going to be AWD for the R I thought, or are they actually offering a regular GTI with AWD. I might have to start saving up.
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Dec 27, 2010 17:49
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veedubfreak posted:It's only going to be AWD for the R I thought, or are they actually offering a regular GTI with AWD. I might have to start saving up. It's got to be the R. I'm not sure what they're trying to accomplish with it though, at 34.5K MSRP... A3 with quattro seems like a much better deal for the money.
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Dec 27, 2010 18:28
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