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Autism Sundae posted:It's got to be the R. I'm not sure what they're trying to accomplish with it though, at 34.5K MSRP... A3 with quattro seems like a much better deal for the money. They'll be basically the same car. Both are Haldex-based.
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Dec 27, 2010 19:55
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So I was thinking about why my car would be pulling slightly to the right during acceleration, and I don't think it has much to do with torque steer (well, for the most part at least). The car tracks straight when I'm in neutral or just holding the throttle steady, but as soon as I give the gas pedal even a little push it begins to veer right. This gets more noticeable at faster speeds too. I don't really believe my stock GTI produces so much torque that the car just can't stay in its lane when I'm accelerating from 65 to 70 in 6th gear. I did complain about a similar problem before though, but back then my car was pulling strongly to the left under acceleration. That was when I had a brand new tire on the left front wheel and an old tire on right front. Right now I have new tires in the rear and older ones in front, but my front right tire definitely has more tread than the left front. Could that be the cause? At this point I think it's either caster being slightly off from recommended spec, uneven tire wear, or maybe some other suspension issue (doesn't seem too likely).
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Dec 27, 2010 20:55
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Autism Sundae posted:It's got to be the R. I'm not sure what they're trying to accomplish with it though, at 34.5K MSRP... A3 with quattro seems like a much better deal for the money. The original R32 cost roughly 29k MRSP in 2004, which works out to about 34k in 2010 USD. 2008 R32 was about 33k USD OTD without navigation (only option)/tax. This new MRSP is for a base Golf R with a 6 speed manual as they're no longer "limited edition" cars like before.
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Dec 27, 2010 21:04
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my1999gsr posted:Look for diff seal leaks, weak exhaust flex pipes, bad wheel bearings, torn CV boots and play in the front suspension links. Overall these A4's are pretty tough and durable so they tend to survive well with good maintenance. Assuming there's no issues in those areas, is this a decent price, or should I be looking to pay less for the same?
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Dec 28, 2010 03:12
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I don't think this warrants it's own post seeing as how this is the nice VW thread so here goes: My 2001 VW Wolfsburg 1.8T is leaking coolant somewhere I cannot quite figure out. I have located the point at where it comes out by seeing where it drips under the car, and then by closely looking under the hood. Removal of the air filter completely allowed me a closer look, but still obstructed. It is impossible to see from under the car lifted with a 2ton jack, and near impossible to see as from under the hood due to a metal bar and cable wiring. I am hoping some better VW experts than myself may know the area with more familiarity or know the issue from past experiences or whatnot as I would really like to sell it now and this is the only thing holding me up.  Click here for the full 799x599 image. Ultimately the leak appears to fall to the ground from here.  Click here for the full 799x599 image.This is really close up, the drip itself falls off the wire covering. Above that is a metal bar I cannot move or see behind, I have no clue what the gray thing above it is.  Click here for the full 799x598 image.Another close up view.  Click here for the full 799x598 image. About the same picture, however I do not know if there is info in this pic that I wouldn't know about so I am providing just in case.  Click here for the full 799x599 image.Zoomed out again. So far I tried to see if I could locate any leaks in different places where the liquid would possibly be moving along the wire coating and merely dripping at that point and it is not. I was able to get my fingers behind the metal bar and I am fairly confident the leak is behind it as my fingers were very wet -more so than what appears to be dripping, I just do not know what is back there. If you need any more info or anything let me know and I'll do my best to provide! Any help is greatly appreciated. Edit; I just noticed this- the coolant I last used (year or so ago) was reddish color and I thought it had fully been expelled. I used water for testing purposes when I had everything removed but I see the fluid in the pics (and real life) is the common greenish color. Not sure why it wouldn't be red or clear. VeRT MaN fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Dec 28, 2010 |
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Dec 28, 2010 04:44
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Are Mk4 R32s worth it? I used to have a Mk4 GTI a while back, and I loved it. Since then, my tolerance for subpar interiors has gone up but my demand for nice handling has gone up. I love the way R32s look and sound, and the interior is strictly better than GTIs' where they differ. But I have reservations about: - gremlins. I heard Climatronic is to be avoided? - AWD. It's the old Audi TT's Haldex system. I haven't heard of reliability issues, but is it any good? - service cost. The motor is a bit different; the suspension I read is also the TT's -- do labor costs get high for the stuff that differs from other Mk4s?
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Dec 28, 2010 05:26
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Autism Sundae posted:Traction control kicked in for some weird reason when I was taking a corner today Traction control more like No Fun Indicator Light. It's way too touchy on my Rabbit too.
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Dec 28, 2010 16:42
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Wasn't even going fast, it's just an exit that I took at maybe 15-20 mph. I guess it rained a bit yesterday so maybe the asphalt was still wet?
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I haven't really driven my GTI hard enough to have it kick in on a turn. When the reviews say "you can't fully turn off the ESC" what does that mean? Are there instances where it just says "Okay hold on you can't do that." and turns itself back on?
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Dec 28, 2010 17:19
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Pretty much. I think it's a little less touchy if you turn it off but still there, plus you get a bright orange blinking light on the dash.
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Dec 28, 2010 17:42
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schindler.xls posted:The original R32 cost roughly 29k MRSP in 2004, which works out to about 34k in 2010 USD. 2008 R32 was about 33k USD OTD without navigation (only option)/tax. This new MRSP is for a base Golf R with a 6 speed manual as they're no longer "limited edition" cars like before. This is nice to hear, but at 34k, wouldn't it be better to just buy an A3? Also, if a 1.8t is leaking coolant, and it has never had the water pump changed, guess what is dying.... My waterpump croaked at 38k miles  Going back to the R discussion, you can't even buy a loving A3 with a manual and AWD, wtf Audi, some of us don't like autos. veedubfreak fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Dec 28, 2010 |
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Dec 28, 2010 18:06
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This happened to my 2006 A4 a few days ago -- visiting my mother for Christmas I left the car parked outside for 3 days in -10 to -15C temperature. After a day I came back from a dinner party and noticed that my brake lights were on. I've seen this happen before, I can get them shut by hitting the lock or unlock button on my remote, so I do that and go to bed. As far as I know that problem didn't reappear. I'm about to leave for home two days later. My remote doesn't seem to be working. I get in the car, put in the key, and nothing. The engine doesn't even turn over, there is no juice at all left in the battery. I got a boost and was on my way, but a modern car shouldn't just die like that if you don't use it for 3 days... funny thing is that I just had it inspected at the dealership, and there was nothing reported. However there's clearly an electrical problem somewhere. Has anyone else experienced that problem where the brake lights seem to spontaneously come on while no one is in the car?
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Dec 29, 2010 01:15
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mr.belowaverage posted:Assuming there's no issues in those areas, is this a decent price, or should I be looking to pay less for the same? It's so hard to say because prices tend to be region-sensitive. Having said that, it seems like a decent price for an A4 of that year in very good condition.
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Dec 29, 2010 01:45
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VeRT MaN posted:I don't think this warrants it's own post seeing as how this is the nice VW thread so here goes: Highly likely that you're leaking coolant from what's called the coolant flange - it's bolted to the head on the driver's side. We see it all the time. Replace the flange and the rubber 0-ring that acts as it's seal.
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Dec 29, 2010 01:49
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Thank you so much for the time and response! Is this something a regular man with a basic tool set would be able to do? That meta bar seemed pretty solid and I couldn't see a way to remove it, and I am guessing the flange is behind that? Would you happen to have, or know where I can obtain, a blow up of the part/area?
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Dec 29, 2010 02:26
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VeRT MaN posted:Thank you so much for the time and response! Is this something a regular man with a basic tool set would be able to do? That meta bar seemed pretty solid and I couldn't see a way to remove it, and I am guessing the flange is behind that? Would you happen to have, or know where I can obtain, a blow up of the part/area? It's not the worst job in the world but it takes time to move everything out of the way to get any kind of access to the flange - figure 4 or so hours if you've never dug into that area of your engine bay. Another difficulty you might run into is very brittle plastic piping from the secondary air motor - it loves to break if you look at it wrong and runs right through where the flange and it's hoses live. If I were you, I'd call around and get some quotes for having the job done by a shop - that way you can have them do a coolant system pressure test to confirm that's where the leak is coming from AND you won't have to deal with digging all the way into the car to fix it.
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Dec 29, 2010 03:03
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kimbo305 posted:Are Mk4 R32s worth it? I used to have a Mk4 GTI a while back, and I loved it. Since then, my tolerance for subpar interiors has gone up but my demand for nice handling has gone up. I love the way R32s look and sound, and the interior is strictly better than GTIs' where they differ. But I have reservations about : Please please please please don't do this. As a pretty big "dubber" even I'd shy away from a MK4 R32 unless it was very well taken care of. There is no difference in haldex revision between MK4/MK5, and both are upgradeable to haldex 2.0 as far as I'm aware. The closest you can get to a Golf R in the states right now is a A3 DSG 2.0T, which is very much moddable to well beyond Golf R levels.
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Dec 29, 2010 04:13
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schindler.xls posted:Please please please please don't do this. As a pretty big "dubber" even I'd shy away from a MK4 R32 unless it was very well taken care of. There is no difference in haldex revision between MK4/MK5, and both are upgradeable to haldex 2.0 as far as I'm aware. So the 'not taken care of' would affect the AWD system? Is upgrading (is it just firmware?) to 2.0 a good or bad thing for reliability, or irrelevant?
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Dec 29, 2010 04:22
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el topo posted:This happened to my 2006 A4 a few days ago -- visiting my mother for Christmas I left the car parked outside for 3 days in -10 to -15C temperature. After a day I came back from a dinner party and noticed that my brake lights were on. I've seen this happen before, I can get them shut by hitting the lock or unlock button on my remote, so I do that and go to bed. As far as I know that problem didn't reappear. This exact thing happened to me twice yesterday with my 2005.5 A4 Avant. My taillight brake lights were on, but not the third brake light. I'm going to check it for codes tomorrow with a VAG COM and see what (if anything) comes up. A similar thing happened with my 2003 Jetta a few years ago, but the brake light relay had gone bad. If that was the case here, I'd assume the third brake light would also be on. I'm assuming that it's something to do with the cold weather. If it persists, I'll take it to the dealer, since I'm still under my certified warranty. schindler.xls posted:The closest you can get to a Golf R in the states right now is a A3 DSG 2.0T, which is very much moddable to well beyond Golf R levels. An aside on this topic: A friend of mine has been looking for a used A3 quattro for his wife for the past few months. The prices on them (at least in Minneapolis) are ridiculous. They're still relatively new, and somewhat rare, so the used ones are not that much less than a brand new one. You can get a used A4 quattro for a lot less, and the used market here is chock full of them. Same engine, more space, and real Torsen quattro AWD. DropShadow fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Dec 29, 2010 |
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Dec 29, 2010 07:22
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kimbo305 posted:So the 'not taken care of' would affect the AWD system? Is upgrading (is it just firmware?) to 2.0 a good or bad thing for reliability, or irrelevant? The haldex system does (thankfully) have a mechanical part, with the downside being that you still need to take care of it just like any AWD system. Changing the oil in this diff will require a stupid little custom german tool, and a boatload of oil/filter. The engine itself will require a little more than 5L of oil every 7.5-10k miles, and that timing chain should probably be done around 120k. Every major service happens at 20/40 intervals with engine at 20k mile increments and haldex every 40k. There are other major services at 40k and 80k for engine maintenance. You have to physically replace the haldex module to take advantage of the TPMS, otherwise haldex is just like every other lovely AWD system. It frantically tries to adjust power between the front and rear (not torque vectoring) tires and will use the brakes to "slow" left and right tires. Haldex 2.0 will completely change your haldex based car if you decide to go that route. e: If you're honestly considering an older R32, just get an Evolution 9 SE. schindler.xls fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Dec 29, 2010 |
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Dec 29, 2010 07:37
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A3 was introduced in the states in like 05 or 06... I think it's anything but new at this point. There aren't many available but that's because they just don't sell. I don't think dealerships are eager to stock a model that might be on the lot for a long time. Oh yeah, a long time ago I complained about a weird clanging noise from the front left? The one that happened at a certain place and seemingly nowhere else? It happened again over the past few days when I was taking a right turn (in two different places) and once when going pretty much straight. It's a pretty loud "clang clang" which is kind of hard to miss, the front of the car also jerks a tiny bit. I can't replicate it reliably though, it happened twice this morning and then never again, even in the same corners. Ideas? Between the rattles, electrical problems, and this I'm getting really sick of this car.
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Dec 29, 2010 07:46
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Autism Sundae posted:A3 was introduced in the states in like 05 or 06... I think it's anything but new at this point. There aren't many available but that's because they just don't sell. I don't think dealerships are eager to stock a model that might be on the lot for a long time. You're right, and I should have clarified that he was specifically looking for the A3 2.0T quattro, which Audi only added to the US lineup in 2009. Even here in quattro country, I seldom see 3.2 quattro A3s on the road. Most are 2.0T FWD models.
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Dec 29, 2010 08:47
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schindler.xls posted:e: If you're honestly considering an older R32, just get an Evolution 9 SE. For me, the R32 joins the sound of a VR6 and the looks of a 337 or 20th AE. Too bad the AWD is such a dog. I like Evos except their looks. But the price differential between an Evo 8/9 that is in good shape (harder to find than an R32, imo) and an R32 is pretty high.
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Dec 29, 2010 09:05
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schindler.xls posted:. 270 bhp stock for the Golf R, sounds like an S3 drivetrain, which would of course make the Audi A3 and the Golf R completely different beasts.
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Dec 29, 2010 11:01
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For those of you with 04-06's having brake light issues, have you had the brake light switch replaced? Mine poo poo the bed around 2006 which left me with NO brake lights and when I took it in to the dealer I was told that it was a common issue. Perhaps this is the reason your brake lights come on randomly for no reason.
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Dec 29, 2010 17:15
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DropShadow posted:You're right, and I should have clarified that he was specifically looking for the A3 2.0T quattro, which Audi only added to the US lineup in 2009. Even here in quattro country, I seldom see 3.2 quattro A3s on the road. Most are 2.0T FWD models. Same reason probably, 3.2 quattro A3s are the most expensive kind and it's hard for people to justify paying top dollar for a small hatchback. I drove a 3.2 A3 around a track for a few laps once and it was pretty fun, but I don't know if I'd ever buy one, too many other options in that price range. Is there still a new A3 planned for 2012? e: apparently there ins't even a way to configure an A3 with a V6 anymore.
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Dec 29, 2010 20:47
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primitive posted:270 bhp stock for the Golf R, sounds like an S3 drivetrain, which would of course make the Audi A3 and the Golf R completely different beasts. 2011 S3 has the 5 cylinder turbo that's also in the TT RS, I believe Golf R has a tuned older 2.0T with an iron block instead of the current aluminum one.
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Dec 29, 2010 20:52
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So I am thinking about getting a Bimmer so I was thinking about selling my Audi A4. I need some opinions on a asking price or a fair trade in value. Everything is in excellent to good condition. I really took good care of it. I have owned it since 66k (now at 104000), and it was previously one owner. It is stage 1+ chipped with little mods (RS4 rear sway and few others). 2003 Audi A4, Sports/Cold weather/Preium Packages, 104k. TIA for the responses. 
Mr.Hodes fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Dec 29, 2010 |
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Dec 29, 2010 21:20
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My 2009 2.5L Rabbit just made the most evil engine sound I have ever heard in my life a bit ago. It had sat for 4-5 days in a cold garage (about 35F) after driving 400 miles back to my parents house. I fired it up to move it out of the way to install a light in the garage and it made a godawful racket for the first 15-20 seconds.  It was higher pitched than rod knock, but had the metallic slapping sound of a backfire or really really loose lifter/timing chain.I could lightly rev the engine while this was happening with no apparent increase in the intensity of the noise. It went mostly away in about 15-20 seconds and completely tapered off after about 30 seconds. After revving it a bit in the 2-3k range while sitting in neutral in the driveway, I didn't notice any part of the noise left and shut her down. I came back about 1-2 hours later, no noise this time, and engine sounded like normal on a spirited drive to the gas station. Oil was changed about 2-3k ago, normal 5w40 Syntec and its currently sitting at the halfway point on the dipstick. No oil pressure light or check engine light during the noise. What the poo poo did I just experience?
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Dec 30, 2010 06:34
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kimbo305 posted:For me, the R32 joins the sound of a VR6 and the looks of a 337 or 20th AE. Too bad the AWD is such a dog. I like Evos except their looks. But the price differential between an Evo 8/9 that is in good shape (harder to find than an R32, imo) and an R32 is pretty high. Owning my current VW, and past VAG engineering has only been a bad decision leading into another. Please do the sensible thing and get the rice rocket with real AWD.
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Dec 30, 2010 07:50
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kimbo305 posted:For me, the R32 joins the sound of a VR6 and the looks of a 337 or 20th AE. Too bad the AWD is such a dog. I like Evos except their looks. But the price differential between an Evo 8/9 that is in good shape (harder to find than an R32, imo) and an R32 is pretty high. I don't know anything about AWDs -- what's wrong with the R32's?
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Dec 30, 2010 22:04
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teh jhey posted:I don't know anything about AWDs -- what's wrong with the R32's? Nothing.
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Dec 30, 2010 23:15
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Is there anyone here with a 2010 or 2011 A3?
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Dec 31, 2010 05:47
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Is the Audi A3 35,000 mile service the same as the GTI 40,000 mile service? They look substantially similar but I just wanted to make sure. The reason being that, including the DSG oil change the Audi dealership near me came in at $425, and no VW dealership was willing to do everything fo less than $650.
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Dec 31, 2010 05:52
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schindler.xls posted:Owning my current VW, and past VAG engineering has only been a bad decision leading into another. Please do the sensible thing and get the rice rocket with real AWD. I guess it was good that I got out when I did. My '03 GTI had a few electrical gremlins that were actually covered under the pretty square extended warranty, and it also had all sorts of rattles. I still miss it though  veedubfreak posted:Nothing. Come on, go into some detail here. My only contact with Mk4 R32 handling was at a few autocrosses, where they seemed to be slower and understeerier than Mk4 GTIs.
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Dec 31, 2010 08:10
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Autism Sundae posted:Is there anyone here with a 2010 or 2011 A3? Yes. I do have an A3 of one of the above years. primitive posted:Is the Audi A3 35,000 mile service the same as the GTI 40,000 mile service? They look substantially similar but I just wanted to make sure. I can take a look in the morning to see. Haven't driven nearly that much since I got the car to know already. Although I'm sure someone will probably answer before I can.
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Dec 31, 2010 08:17
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Deget posted:Yes. I do have an A3 of one of the above years. Have you had any issues with yours? Do you know of any problems with '10/'11 A3s?
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Dec 31, 2010 10:13
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I don't know of any specific issues to the 2010-11 A3. The shared components don't seem to have any current issues as far as I can tell. Also for the person asking about the 35k maint. The DSG does get the oil and filter replaced at that point and every 40k after.
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Dec 31, 2010 20:41
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Does your A3 have any rattles? I was trying to read up on common issues on vwvortex but all I can get out of that forum is a massive headache and strong aversion to lowered cars. Does yours have the sport package?
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Dec 31, 2010 22:51
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Autism Sundae posted:Does your A3 have any rattles? I was trying to read up on common issues on vwvortex but all I can get out of that forum is a massive headache and strong aversion to lowered cars. Does yours have the sport package? I hear you on that. Sifting through all the  is mind-numbing. I didn't want the sport package since my '04 GLI did and it was nothing but a headache when I moved back to Utah. I do miss my seats. No rattles as of yet.There is the potential DSG problems, but they are supposed to be fixed or something now. Engine-wise the only thing I've found is some people saying it burns oil a bit. Build-wise there's nothing really I can think off offhand for now. e: I should note that most of the time when I drive I don't listen to the radio/cd's/iPod/wot. So if there are any abnormalities I pick them up pretty quick. Coffee Sludge fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jan 1, 2011 |
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Dec 31, 2010 23:50
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How many miles do you have on yours? I think the engine is the same for new A3s and MKVI GTI (not entirely sure though), so oil burning issues should be fixed.
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Jan 1, 2011 02:52
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