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I got a Bronica SQ-A outfit for christmas and I finally got to go to the photo store to buy some 120 film today (loving blizzard in New England kept me pent up for 2 days). I bought 2 rolls of Portra 160NC and 2 rolls of Portra 400VC. I took my first photo with it tonight in the hallway under tungsten light. I set it up on the tripod and triple checked the exposure a billion times with my T2i. It's so nerve-wracking to work will a fully manual camera with no meter for the first time, especially when 12 photos cost like 7 bucks plus development and print costs. I'm going to wait until daylight for the rest of the exposures because well, daylight balanced film and all. I don't know about how to get 120 printed around here... seems like getting it developed might be fine but until I get a darkroom setup (no room in my apartment & no community darkroom - it seems) how should I go about getting 6x6 prints made? I know they have to be cropped, but does the printer usually just make a call on how to crop or what? Who's good to go through?
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Dec 29, 2010 05:59
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Mannequin posted:No, tap water filtered through one of those PUR filters. Guess I should get some photo-flo... I use photo-flo as well as a film squeegee that I picked up at B&H. Some people worry that the squeegee will cause dust to scratch the film but it's never happened to me. I have hard water so photo-flo alone was never enough.
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Dec 29, 2010 07:06
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I'm going to photography business tomorrow to buy medium format color film. What should I buy? I already know I'm gonna get Velvia 50 and Porta 160VC. I'm going to be shooting outside, mostly. Slide or negative are both good. I just want to know about other good films.  Related: are there any films currently produced that look like Agfa 1000RS? I like the grain. Also, my dad just gave me his Voigtlander Bessa 6x9 folder (Voigtar 6.3 lens). What should I do with it?
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Dec 29, 2010 09:24
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atomicthumbs posted:Related: are there any films currently produced that look like Agfa 1000RS? I like the grain. Fuji Superia 800 is pretty chunky and not too expensive. Give that a go. Does the Bessa work? If so, use it.
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Dec 29, 2010 09:28
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Cannister posted:I got a Bronica SQ-A outfit for christmas and I finally got to go to the photo store to buy some 120 film today (loving blizzard in New England kept me pent up for 2 days). I bought 2 rolls of Portra 160NC and 2 rolls of Portra 400VC. I took my first photo with it tonight in the hallway under tungsten light. I set it up on the tripod and triple checked the exposure a billion times with my T2i. It's so nerve-wracking to work will a fully manual camera with no meter for the first time, especially when 12 photos cost like 7 bucks plus development and print costs. I'm going to wait until daylight for the rest of the exposures because well, daylight balanced film and all. Have you thought about going the digital darkroom route with the lack of space and other facilities? And congrats on the Bronica, I have an SQ-Ai with an 80mm f/2.8 and 50mm f/3.5, very happy with it. Beware, you'll never like going back to 35mm.
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Dec 29, 2010 11:56
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Can somebody definitively tell me the differences between the epson V500 and V600? I've found a billion threads on photo.net and rangefinderforums but all of it turns into arguing about the ultimate resolution of film and I am completely incapable of finding any real differences, even on the epson website they seem really similar. I have christmas money burning a hole in my pocket and I need a scanner now that I have 6 rolls of kodachrome that will be someday returned to me, and 2 rolls of provia. Plus more provia in the fridge.
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Dec 29, 2010 12:08
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Cannister posted:I don't know about how to get 120 printed around here... seems like getting it developed might be fine but until I get a darkroom setup (no room in my apartment & no community darkroom - it seems) how should I go about getting 6x6 prints made? I know they have to be cropped, but does the printer usually just make a call on how to crop or what? Who's good to go through? Personally, I'd recommend the digital darkroom route as well. You can develop your own film without a proper darkroom, all you need is a changing bag to get it off of the roll and onto the reel, which is then placed in a light-tight tank that allows you to add/drain liquid without exposing the film. You can pick up an Epson V500 for $100-125 and not have to worry about costly lab scans. Rontalvos posted:Can somebody definitively tell me the differences between the epson V500 and V600? I've found a billion threads on photo.net and rangefinderforums but all of it turns into arguing about the ultimate resolution of film and I am completely incapable of finding any real differences, even on the epson website they seem really similar. It sounds like they really aren't that different, I'd get whatever looks most convenient to you. If you only do 35mm, you might look at one of those dedicated film scanners, which tend to produce better results than flatbeds.
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Dec 29, 2010 14:22
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Personally, I'd recommend the digital darkroom route as well. You can develop your own film without a proper darkroom, all you need is a changing bag to get it off of the roll and onto the reel, which is then placed in a light-tight tank that allows you to add/drain liquid without exposing the film. You can pick up an Epson V500 for $100-125 and not have to worry about costly lab scans. I shoot both 120 and 35mm, but I shoot more 120. And that's precisely the problem, they aren't much different, but does anybody know what ARE the differences?
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Dec 29, 2010 22:59
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Cannister posted:I don't know about how to get 120 printed around here... seems like getting it developed might be fine but until I get a darkroom setup (no room in my apartment & no community darkroom - it seems) how should I go about getting 6x6 prints made? I know they have to be cropped, but does the printer usually just make a call on how to crop or what? Who's good to go through? North Coast Photographic Services might be able to do that. You should give them a call. I just sent two batches of 35mm negatives for them to scan, but they also do prints and stuff. I formerly dealt with a company called Slide Converter, but their website appears to be down at the moment. (They might be able to do 6x6 prints also). They were okay, but I'm giving North Coast Photo a try since they have a good reputation. Otherwise, you could always get the negatives scanned and turned into digital files and then go about printing it yourself. Or if you don't want to do the actual printing, you could get them professionally printed and then just slice the photos with a paper cutter. Rontalvos posted:I shoot both 120 and 35mm, but I shoot more 120. And that's precisely the problem, they aren't much different, but does anybody know what ARE the differences? This guy seems to know his poo poo when it comes to scanners. His native language is German so some of his English is a bit muddy, but his reviews are pretty good. If that doesn't help, try calling Epson and asking them what the differences are. Or give B&H a call and see what one of their sales reps says.
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Dec 30, 2010 00:03
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Rontalvos posted:Can somebody definitively tell me the differences between the epson V500 and V600? I've found a billion threads on photo.net and rangefinderforums but all of it turns into arguing about the ultimate resolution of film and I am completely incapable of finding any real differences, even on the epson website they seem really similar. Well the 600 is basically a newer slightly upgraded 500. I bought one because the price difference wasn't very large at the time. I would buy the cheaper one and put the extra cash into a betterscanning.com holder and/or Silverfast Ai. The stock epson holders are newton ring city with 120 film and the supplied software is terrible.
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Dec 30, 2010 00:27
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Anyone know any good places in San Francisco, Santa Cruz, or directly between the two where I could get 120 film? My local photo store is out of everything except Provia 400X, and I do not want Provia 400X.
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Dec 30, 2010 01:49
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atomicthumbs posted:Anyone know any good places in San Francisco, Santa Cruz, or directly between the two where I could get 120 film? My local photo store is out of everything except Provia 400X, and I do not want Provia 400X. TheLastManStanding fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Dec 30, 2010 |
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Dec 30, 2010 02:42
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Yeah, I go to Calumet or Gassers if I need film right away. Otherwise I just order from Freestyle.
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Dec 30, 2010 03:55
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Discount Photography looks pretty good. 
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Dec 30, 2010 04:33
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atomicthumbs posted:Discount Photography looks pretty good.  Most expensive camera store in the City! Literally, by a factor of 10. 
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Dec 30, 2010 16:30
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McMadCow posted:
hence the .
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Dec 30, 2010 19:50
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Keeble in Palo Alto has a lot of 120 film. That's typically where I go if I can't wait for some delivery.
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Dec 31, 2010 00:47
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I just googled Arista Legacy Pro 100 to make sure it hadn't been discontinued (was thinking of Legacy Pro 400, RIP cheap Neopan 400) and my Flickr page was on the first page of results  I've experimented with D76, have some Diafine I'll probably never use, and normally gravitate towards HC-110 (dilution H) for a B&W developer. Anything else I might want to throw in my next Freestyle order?
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Dec 31, 2010 05:05
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LP100 is the poo poo. It's my standard 100 film. I bulk load it. Order lots because you'll love it. It's the perfect combo of the grain of a T-film with the contrast of a traditional film. I've used it with XTOL with great results.
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Dec 31, 2010 05:13
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Microdol-X is back as Legacy Pro Mic-X. I have a package I'm going to mix up and use to do my next batch. In high dilutions (1:3) it enhances acutance rather than suppressing grain, supposedly it works great on Acros. (LP100 is Acros)
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Dec 31, 2010 05:15
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Does anyone here by some remote chance have any Kodak Technidol developer? *waits for orange lime to show up*
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Dec 31, 2010 06:08
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GWBBQ posted:Does anyone here by some remote chance have any Kodak Technidol developer? *waits for orange lime to show up* It pops up on eBay, but Photographer's Formulary TD-3 was also made for tech pan and is still available.
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Dec 31, 2010 06:55
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atomicthumbs posted:hence the I had to be sure. 
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Dec 31, 2010 17:46
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Has anyone figured out how to scan Velvia? My Velvia scans look like crap. They are muddy and unsharp. Looks like I scanned it through vaseline. E100G on the other hand looks amazing. I love that film.
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Dec 31, 2010 23:44
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what's the fastest color medium format film? turns out superia is 135 only.
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Jan 1, 2011 08:27
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atomicthumbs posted:what's the fastest color medium format film? turns out superia is 135 only. You can get Portra in 800.
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Jan 1, 2011 08:33
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HPL posted:You can get Portra in 800. There's also Fuji Pro 800z.
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Jan 1, 2011 18:11
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Snaily posted:There's also Fuji Pro 800z.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:02
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atomicthumbs posted:Related: are there any films currently produced that look like Agfa 1000RS? I like the grain. Wow that is some crazy looking grain.
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Jan 3, 2011 06:19
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Personally, I'd recommend the digital darkroom route as well. You can develop your own film without a proper darkroom, all you need is a changing bag to get it off of the roll and onto the reel, which is then placed in a light-tight tank that allows you to add/drain liquid without exposing the film. You can pick up an Epson V500 for $100-125 and not have to worry about costly lab scans. Developing C41 is harder than this makes it sound. For most people it is worth it to pay the $5-10 lab development fee and then scan yourself. It IS worth it to buy your own scanner and learn how to use it.
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Jan 3, 2011 06:23
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Dads posted:Developing C41 is harder than this makes it sound. For most people it is worth it to pay the $5-10 lab development fee and then scan yourself. It IS worth it to buy your own scanner and learn how to use it. Sorry, I only meant B&W. Doing your own C-41, especially 35mm, is seldom worth it. CVS down the street does mine for $2.69 a roll or something.
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Jan 3, 2011 15:05
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I picked up a Rolleicord V this weekend and developed my first roll of 120 last night. I've done 35mm successfully many times, but this is what I ended up with: I'm thinking this is one of two things: 1.) Not enough developer to cover the whole roll 2.) Air bubbles that I didn't tap out correctly (looks like some bubble shapes there). I used the recommended 500ml that the Paterson tank said on the bottom for 120/220, but was that not enough? This was my first 120 roll, so if anyone has any clues where I went wrong, it would be appreciated.
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Jan 3, 2011 15:21
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beeker posted:I picked up a Rolleicord V this weekend and developed my first roll of 120 last night. I've done 35mm successfully many times, but this is what I ended up with: That looks like option 1 to me, if the dark band was at the top edge of the tank. Those bubbles are probably just from foam sticking to the dry portion of film when you shook it. Make sure you fill the tank until it starts to overflow.
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Jan 3, 2011 17:08
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Make sure you fill the tank until it starts to overflow. That's not really the best idea, actually. If you fill it to max capacity, you won't have any void in your tank and you'll get less effective agitation. I mix 8oz for each 35mm reel and 16 for each 120. That should keep your reels submerged while still leaving a bit of space in the tank. If you DO fill the tank to overflow, just pour a bit out. After your agitations, smack the tank on the counter to dislodge any air bubbles you've created.
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Jan 3, 2011 17:38
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Dr. Cogwerks posted:Make sure you fill the tank until it starts to overflow. the bottom of the tank shows how much solution to pour in...you don't need to needlessly waste your chemistry. i measured for 120 and water level is almost a centimeter extra above the film. that leaves a lot of void as mcmadcow says
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Jan 3, 2011 18:45
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Maybe the reel hopped up a notch or two on the rod?
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Jan 3, 2011 20:22
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Hmm that's plausible too since god knows what I was doing when I was in the dark. Thanks everyone, I'm gonna double check the amount of chemistry with water and no film on the reel before my next roll and I'll make sure it's pushed all the way down.
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Jan 3, 2011 20:37
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Just check the level with developed film and water or photoflo in an open tank. E:fb
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Jan 3, 2011 21:28
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beeker posted:To pose a stupid response, that's not due to the tape at the end of the roll holding it on to the backing is it?
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Jan 3, 2011 23:26
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That's a good thought, but this spans the entire roll, so it's probably just the fact that it wasn't fully submerged.
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Jan 3, 2011 23:37
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