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If you do decide to go that route, please call 911 FIRST.
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Dec 30, 2010 18:47
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Cross-posting from my SA-Mart thread, since this was a note-worthy figurine: REX!      This thing was a BLAST to make. I'll have better pictures up once my camera batteries are charged.
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Dec 30, 2010 22:21
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The Scientist posted:Was there a lot of splatter when you made that? quote:I've been looking for a super cheap stick machine, found one at a pawn shop that they said they'd do $40 on - I'm pretty sure its the Harbor Freight brand. Its 70 amps. This is literally just a tiny, incredibly cheap buzz box I wanted to experiment with. I live in an apartment now and I want nothing more at the moment. If you must get a cheap Harbor Freight stick welder, seriously consider this one and then get something name-brand and/or 240v. I had a 70-amp stick machine before the FCAW; it sucked sweaty donkey balls. In less-insane news, I went to my parents' house today to pick through the pile of scrap air conditioners (my dad's an HVAC tech, and takes away the old one when he does an install, planning to make a little side money selling it for scrap, but doesn't have time to break them down and take them to the scrapyard) for metal to practice welding on. There's not much steel in those things, sadly. But there was, in the bushes beside the shed, an old pickup-bed ladder rack, so now I have about 40 feet of slightly-rusty 1" thick-wall square tube. I'm gonna build me a welder cart tomorrow.
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Dec 30, 2010 23:25
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I HAVE to weld inside to cover up the fumes of the meth lab! No seriously I was actually planning on doing any welding in the "car wash" place that's in the parking lot; its weird, is like a chain-link fenced off area right in the middle of the parking lot with a bunch of gates in and out, its where people park trailers and cars that aren't in use and boats. then at the end of the parking lot there's this building, its the maintanence dudes' shop, and there's a covered car port attached with a coin operated vacuum and air machine. I was working in there just now, in fact. Earlier in the day I saw the dude on his golf cart who is apparently "maintainence", and he said it was alright. I did some metal-to-metal soldering for the first time today (that is, other than electronics stuff). I'll edit this post later with a pic of what I made and ask you guys if you'd consider it "art". Sure was a long post just to explain one simple thing, sorry.
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Dec 31, 2010 00:28
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If you were to do that, you'd want to get welding curtains to shield the public from arc flash AND clear it with the landlord before you start. Consider saving your pennies for a small engine driven welder that could fit in the trunk of your car or something.
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Dec 31, 2010 00:43
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Is there such a thing as a welder that runs off like an alternator coupled to a pto on a tractor? Otherwise, I'd just get a gas torch. As far as what I'm actually gonna do, I have no idea. Sure does suck. Miss my garage bad.
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Dec 31, 2010 01:11
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The Scientist posted:Is there such a thing as a welder that runs off like an alternator coupled to a pto on tractor? There are many websites and various internet forums posts that detail taking a heavy duty alternator, drive it by an electric motor, gasoline engine, PTO, etc. You would be able to create a CC power source capable of stick welding or scratch start TIG welding with a foot pedal. (No aluminum cuz you won't have HF). You'll need to be somewhat familiar with electronic circuits in order to modify the alternator and build the control circuitry. I think this is awesome, and I have every intention of trying this out as a fun engineering/welding project. I would not recommend this project to someone as a beginner's welding machine however. This is the type of project you undertake when you already have a good tool inventory and spare/junk parts lying around to build the thing as cheap as possible. Edit: Before you even ask, please don't be that guy who takes microwave oven transformers and tries to make a stick welder with them. Please. I beg you not to be that guy on youtube. Edit2: There are commercial versions available of the above alternator type welder, but once you see the price tag you'll just go buy a used Lincoln/Miller engine driven machine. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Dec 31, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2010 01:15
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dv6speed posted:There are many websites and various internet forums posts that detail taking a heavy duty alternator, drive it by an electric motor, gasoline engine, PTO, etc. You would be able to create a CC power source capable of stick welding or scratch start TIG welding with a foot pedal. (No aluminum cuz you won't have HF). You'll need to be somewhat familiar with electronic circuits in order to modify the alternator and build the control circuitry. On a tangent, my grandfather built an air pump out of a washing machine motor and an A/C compressor. It's pretty awesome, and I intend to replicate it for my shop when I get around to going to the u-pull-it. I wonder if that rig with a Harbor freight air tank would be enough to run air tools off of. I kinda want to get a bigass inverter and wire it into, say, the lightbar circuit on my car so I can run the welder away from home. Not that I have a reason (yet), but I do have the generating capacity. the wife is not amused, but my cop car has a 200A alternator and the welder only draws 20A (Edit: lightbar fuse is 50A, and still in; the other cop-gear fuses are missing). Might not be able to weld with the headlights on, but the arc makes its own light! Actually it'd probably be more efficient to take everything forward of the diodes in a 240vAC input/DC output welder and wire it up to the car, wouldn't it? 12v and as many amps as you want is what arc welding is all about, and my alternator can provide. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Dec 31, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2010 02:44
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poo poo... ignore this.
AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Dec 31, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2010 03:04
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Well, weeks after buying my TIG machine, I finally got everything I need and got off my rear end. I'm glad I did, because I had loads of fun, and TIG welding really is awesome. Here's a pic of the machine, water cooler, and all the related plumbing.  I purchased 40 feet worth of 1/8" x 1.5" flatbar today and some 3/32" TIG wire. Here's the coupon setup for welding. The coupon is a short piece of flat bar with all the mill scale and poo poo removed via flap wheel. I'm starting by "padding a plate", where you run one bead of weld metal on the top edge, then run the root of the following bead in the toe of the previous, making sure to "bisect" your angles properly. When padding a plate, after you completely weld on the surface, you can turn it 90 degrees, weld over top of it again, and repeat until it's inches thick. The coupon is tack welded to a larger piece of plate which is hooked to ground. It's sitting on top of firebricks so I don't gently caress up the wood surface below.  This is how far I got on my first bead before I contaminated the tungsten by touching the filler metal to it accidentally.  Which brings us to grinding the tungsten. I picked up a 6" Delta bench grinder and some diamond media to setup a dedicated tungsten grinding station. The wheel on the left is a 100 grit cabbing wheel. This is for quickly removing contaminated tungsten and rough shaping of the point. On the right side of the grinder are actually two separate wheels mounted back to back. They are abrasive discs mounted to 3/8" aluminum discs by adhesive. On the left is 360 grit, which is used for most tungsten grinding. On the right is 1200 grit, which is used for polishing, useful when doing very low amp work. The drill is used to spin the tungsten at an even speed while grinding. This setup works very well.  And here I am half way thru the plate. Not great, but very good for being a TIG newb. At this point, I've spent more hours reading about TIG welding then I have doing it.  I'm pleased with the setup, and my early results. More to come. Also, I'll be writing up some detailed posts about how to teach yourself stick/MIG/TIG welding. Also, this is absolutely awesome. With the little bit of welding I did tonight, it came in very handy, and I highly recommend it. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Dec 31, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2010 03:13
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That's weird (those gloves) because I was just thinking recently how I've been seeing dudes on Orange County Choppers TIG'ing without any gloves at all. I was wondering 1. Why they don't get electrocuted 2. How they don't get burns 3. Why they would think that's a good idea considering the things dv6 has said about getting even melanoma after prolonged exposure. I've had melanoma so this struck me as a no-brainer. As for the home-made rigs, I installed a 450 VA inverter in my car. I found an old battery backup PSU in the dumpster at school. Minus the battery. I make no apologies for dumpster diving. Anyway, I first tried powering the inverter circuit through the cigarette lighter. Queue me pulling 40 fuses figuring out which one I just smoked. So I went to Home Depot and got some #10 wire, a red and a black, and hardwired it straight to the battery, under the hood and through the body, coming out by the passenger door hinge, through a whole I drilled in the dash panel, and then to the inverter that was in the glove compartment where I had cut a hole for it to fit. It worked alright, but one day I wanted to trim some weeds all the way up the driveway - some 600 feet or something, and all we had was this lovely ancient corded craftsmen weed eater. So I started up the car, I drive a straight 4 '94 accord, and took it up front. Then when I plugged everything in and started using it, I stalled out my car. Tiny engine, tiny alternator, tiny battery, etc. Anyway, they make battery back up PSU's with really high rated VA's (a volt-amp is essentially equivalent of a watt but its used specifically when you're talking transformers), so that'd be a pretty good source of an inverter. If you know your Ohm's law, it'd prolly be pretty easy to pick you out one that'd work quite well as a welder. I'd put it in a sheet metal box with A LOT of air circulation to keep it cool, and make sure everything's grounded nicely, but to me it seems viable. Not that I'm gonna try it just yet. I like DV6's advice. But I like the idea.
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Dec 31, 2010 03:44
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The Scientist posted:That's weird (those gloves) because I was just thinking recently how I've been seeing dudes on Orange County Choppers TIG'ing without any gloves at all. I was wondering 1. Why they don't get electrocuted 2. How they don't get burns 3. Why they would think that's a good idea considering the things dv6 has said about getting even melanoma after prolonged exposure. I've had melanoma so this struck me as a no-brainer. 2. They don't get burns because they are working on thin gauge stuff with very little amps and are doing very short welds. 3. They are idiots. They probably feel more masculine TIG welding without gloves, and either don't care or aren't aware of skin cancer. You don't loose any control with a good, snug fitting pair of TIG gloves. You'll also note they do a good amount of MIG tack welds without even using a face shield, and close their eyelids instead. When you go shopping for TIG gloves, bring a dime with you. They should have enough dexterity where you can pick up a dime sitting flat on a table. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Dec 31, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2010 03:49
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What was different about the time you got shocked in the vuvuzela's that time you were sitting on top of a rail car, as a bi product of swamp rear end?
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Dec 31, 2010 04:12
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I'm going to have a day of forge time tomorrow and I'm totally stoked! I took a two day beginning blacksmith class at the beginning of the month, and spent a third day goofing around making s-hooks the following weekend. I'm going to try to make a pot rack, and do a few attempts at riveting and/or forge welding, and also practice some decorative leaves.
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Dec 31, 2010 04:46
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The Scientist posted:What was different about the time you got shocked in the vuvuzela's that time you were sitting on top of a rail car, as a bi product of swamp rear end? The ground clamp was attached to the car itself all the way down below. So to give my workpiece a ground connection to the welder, I just laid it on top of the railcar on a bare spot I had just recently ground. Well it turns out the piece didn't have a good ground connection. Furthermore, my sweaty arms were right against my work piece, and my sweaty rear end was on top of the car. I completed the circuit to ground. The smart thing would have been to tack weld the workpiece to the car itself to guarantee good ground. (Or climb down and fetch the ground clamp from below.) This brings up another tip I discovered one day. When you are doing a job in the summer time, some time you just can't avoid wet gloves and clothing. If you are actually sitting on or standing on your weldment, you too have a good ground. Sometimes you will get shocked just putting an electrode in your holder. If that happens, I stick the electrode thru the little hole on the handle of my wire brush. The wood will provide an insulator between you and the electrode. (This is only an issue in the summer time when your sweating. Dry gloves wont shock you when putting an electrode in the holder.) AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Dec 31, 2010 |
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Dec 31, 2010 14:23
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I got the Art of Blacksmithing and the Complete Modern Blacksmith for Christmas and have thumbed/read through them, so naturally questions How viable/frequently-done is it to weld steel scrap together to make larger stock? It was suggested that hammers can be manufactured by folding flat bars/strips of steel back upon themselves, and that seems really convenient seeing as how stock of the size/mass needed to make a hammer isn't going to be an easy or convenient find (beyond older hammers themselves). How many of your tools can you make out of mild steel? High-carbon steel is always recommended but it looks like the sort of thing you'll never have enough of. Could you get away with case-hardening mild steel hand tools/knives/etc, or splitting/welding high-carbon blades into chisels?
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Dec 31, 2010 23:50
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You can forge-weld two pieces of the same kind of steel together to your heart's content. It is not very efficient, since you lose metal to scale every time you re-heat, and it takes a lot of work, but if what you have is a shitload of flat bar and what you want is a big hunk of metal, you work with what you've got. Any tool that will be used to strike, cut, or be struck, should be made of carbon steel. It needs to be significantly harder than the metal you're hitting or it will get dented, warped, blunted, or otherwise wear out really fast. Remember that the surface of your anvil is hardened too. So any tool you'll bring against that surface must be made of tool steel. I made a hot chisel by starting with an automotive coil spring (these are made of spring steel, which is usually basic carbon steel, 1080 or something like that). With some help, I cut it into segments, and then straightened the segments. Each one was around 8 inches long once straightened. Then it was pretty simple to work one end into a blade shape, quench & temper appropriately, and finally sharpen on a grinder. Go to a scrapyard and see if you can get coil springs or (especially) leaf springs from a big car or truck. In terms of dollar-cost you can often do better than the price of carbon steel stock from a distributor. ...I would not rely on case-hardening to produce a decent tool for long-term use, but I've never actually tried that so maybe it'd work, I dunno.
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Jan 1, 2011 00:10
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Upgrades! My workbench has gone from this...  ... to this...  ... and currently to this:  And yup - hardy hole has been cut into the slab!  And I've also made some hardy tools: Hammerhead radiusing tool:   Helping hand tool:    Fun. I love a good workspace.
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Jan 1, 2011 01:03
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Be careful about using just anything to make a hammer head. If its really hard steel, it might chip off and the jagged shard is attracted to your eye like the starship enterprise to black holes. There's I think actually a specific quality used to describe a metal that can take impact well; impact tolerance? shock resistance? I can't remember. Who else has ever had a piece of metal in their sclera?  , literally.
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Jan 1, 2011 01:03
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I actually have; I used to beat the poo poo out of scrap metal in my grandfather's shop when I was a kid and I walked around for two weeks with a rusting splinter above my pupil. Optometrist thought it was a brain tumor at first 'cause he couldn't see the metal at first. good times 
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Jan 1, 2011 02:06
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jovial_cynic posted:Upgrades! How solid is that weld? Remember, I'm a dude who's never ACTUALLY welded before, so I'm always trying to gauge (gage?) how strong particular welds are. I've seen welds accomplish some impressive feats, but I don't really know what's required to pull those feats off welding wise. Jovial Cynic posted:Helping hand tool: How'd you cut the Hardy Hole? Also, I dig you helping hands. I once made something similar by using doubled over, really thick gauge aluminum wire. In this particular case it had a magnifying glass zip-tied to it. Good quick solution; not perfect by any means. whose tuggin fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 1, 2011 |
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Jan 1, 2011 03:04
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The Scientist posted:How solid is that weld? Remember, I'm a dude who's never ACTUALLY welded before, so I'm always trying to gauge (gage?) how strong particular welds are. I've seen welds accomplish some impressive feats, but I don't really know what's required to pull those feats off welding wise. Solid enough. Keep in mind that my setup doesn't involve much pounding; I'm not doing any blacksmith work, so I won't be slamming on it. I'll just tap sheet metal around the head to shape it. I *am* confident, however, that using the hammer as a hammer will not be a problem. The Scientist posted:How'd you cut the Hardy Hole? I have a cutting torch on my oxy/acet rig. They're tons of fun - it's neat to watch a flame cut through thick steel like it's nothing. I used the same one to cut through a rail road track. Fun. The Scientist posted:Also, I dig you helping hands. I'm glad I finally made one. I've been using a vice to hold my pieces in place, which is marginally useful, but not nearly as useful as the helping hands I made. It's fairly rigid, so it'll hold a bit of weight without failure, and it's a bit overbuilt for my purposes. But I like overbuilt. I'm putting an end to the "they don't build them like they used to" notion in my shop.
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Jan 1, 2011 03:12
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Believe me, its a good thing they're over built. The ones I bought from Radio Shack for soldering circuit boards are god-damned awful. God. Damned. Awful.
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Jan 1, 2011 03:39
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This is the hammer I use more than any other. Shown here from about a year ago I think. The handle has seen better days. So I took it out.  New handle. I also sanded the hammer to even out the peen, take off the crappy epoxy paint, and buffed it a little with some polishing compound. My buffer is a piece of poo poo.  Treated the face to a little cleaning time too. Nice even strikes now, no edges to speak of.  Love it.
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Jan 1, 2011 04:26
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Has anyone ever heard of this book? Metalworking Sink or Swim: Tips and Tricks for Machinists, Welders, and Fabricators? Its excellent. I'd recommend it for a number of reasons. For one, the dude is hilarious. He is awesome at making it genuinely enjoyable to read. In addition, you can tell he's a real smart guy and has endless real life experience to draw on. Basically, paragraph after paragraph has incredible tips you may never have thought of on your own but are brilliant. In short, I really dig it. Also, on a completely unrelated note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRJYgNc_TNc
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Jan 2, 2011 06:21
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dv6speed posted:
Alright, rather than having you learn and develop bad habits, this is a great chance for you to learn a good habit. Rather than always resting your hand on a weldment that may or may not be blistering hot, you can walk the cup. This is a technique where you use the edge of your gas cup as a pivot point and you rock your torch back and forth spreading the heat into the weld area. This is THE TECHINIQUE for tig welding the root on pipe. Works great on vertical and fillet welds too. (And while you are there you might want to watch this guy's other videos. He has good advice for new welders but is kinda long winded.) If you learn to tig weld, learn to walk the cup. Don't by gimmicky bullshit like "tig finger" or a "cheater lens" or a "rotary blue tooth ampereage hand control" or what the gently caress ever else there is out there. Remember, people were welding just fine before that poo poo came out. I am of the school of thought that you should learn the old ways first and move forward (at least if you are going to weld professionally.) You will learn to appreciate the convenience of new products that make you faster or more productive. The operative word is convenience. Don't develop habits in a way that you can't tig weld with or without a foot amperage control or an auto shade hood. I learned to tig weld with a fix shade hood on an old stick machine scratch starting (no HF) on 18ga. 304 SS. So when I got an auto shade hood and a trigger switch on my torch, I was cruising. But hey, if you are just tigging around for fun, go at it. I don't want to discourage anyone.
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Jan 2, 2011 07:18
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duck hunt posted:Alright, rather than having you learn and develop bad habits, this is a great chance for you to learn a good habit. Rather than always resting your hand on a weldment that may or may not be blistering hot, you can walk the cup. This is a technique where you use the edge of your gas cup as a pivot point and you rock your torch back and forth spreading the heat into the weld area. This is THE TECHINIQUE for tig welding the root on pipe. Works great on vertical and fillet welds too. (And while you are there you might want to watch this guy's other videos. He has good advice for new welders but is kinda long winded.) I'm not sure if there is a way to walk the cup running fillets in the flat position on a piece of plate? Everything I have been taught is torch at 70 degrees and filler from the side at 20, in flat position. So walking isn't always an option, but your right when you can use it, it is the best option. What he's doing in those pictures is the first exercise they teach to newbies. It's more about learning to manipulate the puddle and dipping filler and not dripping filler. Honestly I still finger drag on butt and corner welds, but never seem to get burned using thin tig gloves. Still get's a little toasty. (hell I do it mig welding too, bad habbit but it makes good welds.) I do agree with you on the no amperage control for learning, but it sure makes cratering out a hell of a lot easier. I work with a ton of welders that still use the Homer Simpson style hoods, and would never use an auto darken. (I will use nothing but an auto darken, since I weld so many varying thicknesses in a weldment.) You might come from a older school of thought and I respect that. My view on life is if there is technology that can help you progress faster you use it. If there is someone willing to teach you something, you listen.
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Jan 2, 2011 09:51
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Before I start rambling, you never answered my question from the last page, duck hunt. Have you ever tried air-carbon-arc with an Inverter on single phase power? I'm very curious about that. I've only tried the traditional transformer/rectifier machines. duck hunt posted:Old fart talk This is idiotic. TIG welding has enough variables as at is. To be good, you need to concentrate on the torch and filler wire manipulation. Once you "get it", throwing in a little complication to make the process more difficult and improve skills is warranted. I've been thru welding school for both stick and MIG. I then went from welding school to two different industrial welding jobs. During that process I've seen my peers try to learn and fail. I got news for you... what separates the good ones from the idiots isn't poo poo like "TIG fingers" it's taking the time to understand the process to the fullest extent. Telling me that I should not use auto darkening hoods, TIG fingers, and whatever else because he learned the "old fashioned way" is just as bad as the old ham radio operators who are pissed off they had to take a 20 WPM morse code test to get their Extra license and I didn't. Stop loving complaining about the new school and go do or say something productive instead. As far as walking the cup is concerned, last I checked, people, and I mean the kind who actually weld for a living, only walk the cup for pipe roots and vertical, or when running very high amps on thick metal. While it's a valuable skill, it is not appropriate for everything. Scenario: You are the boss. You have two welders working for you. One of them has a TIG finger and is giving you 10% more production each day then the other idiot. Are you actually going to walk up to that dude and tell him to take the TIF finger off and walk the cup instead? Edit: I gave a TIG finger to my previous welding teacher as a Christmas present this year. He loves it and said he wish he had it years ago. This is a man who's been welding professionally for 30 years. Edit2: evilhat posted:My view on life is if there is technology that can help you progress faster you use it. If there is someone willing to teach you something, you listen. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 13:54
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Hm, I woulda thought his philosophy lined up with yours better. What I took from his post was just that he was saying learn the old fashioned basics, and then progress into the new modern stuff progressively only so that you have a better understanding of whats going on, why, and then can appreciate exactly why these new techniques and hardware are so helpful. I wasn't getting the "In MY day...." vibe from him, more just encouraging everyone to learn from the bottom up. And that's what I've always got from you, too, dv6.
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Jan 2, 2011 17:53
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The Scientist posted:I wasn't getting the "In MY day...." vibe from him, more just encouraging everyone to learn from the bottom up. And that's what I've always got from you, too, dv6. Well, I kind of was getting that vibe. Perhaps it's cuz I had just woke up, and have had to deal with people who have that vibe my entire working career. I think the old school way of doing things is great when it really teaches you good lessons. I think it's terrible when it forces you to spend time doing things that don't have any material impact for the sake of nostalgia. At the end of the day, time is money, and the goal is to get the job done in a reasonable amount of time so I can do other things. Anything that helps that cause whether from the old or new school I support.
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Jan 2, 2011 18:08
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dv6speed posted:I think the old school way of doing things is great when it really teaches you good lessons. I think it's terrible when it forces you to spend time doing things that don't have any material impact for the sake of nostalgia. Hey, I get that old timer bullshit talk all the time. I get tired of it too. It's like, update your skills or just loving retire already you old poo poo. And don't think that I am trying to discourage anyone from welding. The point that I was trying to make is that if you start with the basics and get good at that, then when you get to use convenience things like foot amperage controls, inverter HF, AC wave shaping controls, trigger control it makes you faster. I couldn't agree with you more from your earlier post where we both agree that what really makes a good welder is not all the little gimmicky crap that they use, but it is intimate knowledge of the welding process, metallurgy, and fabrication. A tig finger won't make you a good welder, but it will make a welder who knows his poo poo faster, and that is what products like that are made for. Take time though to learn as many different techniques as possible. A pro fabricator isn't going to say "alright guys, the batteries in my auto-shade hood are out. I can't weld now." You can walk the cup in any position. I recommend practicing the motion with the welder turned off. On a fillet weld (or a lap), you tend to rock the cup back and forth using the perpendicular surfaces. However, do note that walking the cup is a SLOW WELD! You will easily overheat thinner material. So it is not always the best technique. Ok, now about CAC on single phase input: You can hook CAC on any machine. I was using a 350A dynasty inverter and I had to peel some old fillet welds off of a plate so I hooked up an air compressor line and ran the CAC torch into my dynasty and ran it at full tilt ~300A. What ends up happening is the duty cycle becomes a major issue. 3 phase machines like rectifiers have better duty cycles and lend themselves to nearly 100% duty while gouging.
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Jan 3, 2011 00:38
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What can you guys tell me about Lagun Knee Mills??
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Jan 3, 2011 13:29
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How's the lathe?
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Jan 3, 2011 17:02
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The Scientist posted:How's the lathe?
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Jan 3, 2011 21:05
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They look pretty solid and full featured from an image search, but I've never used one. Why? Find one cheap nearby you?
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Jan 4, 2011 08:51
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Someone wants me to give them $1500 for a 10"x50" Lagun with DRO. I never even heard of the name before. I'm not in the mood for spending any more money, but I have a wanted ad up on Craigslist in the event an amazing deal comes my way.
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Jan 4, 2011 12:47
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Anomalous Boners oughta know.
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Jan 4, 2011 15:59
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That sounds like a pretty awesome deal. Any idea on what kind of shape it's in? Come with any tooling?
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Jan 4, 2011 18:45
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dv6speed posted:Someone wants me to give them $1500 for a 10"x50" Lagun with DRO. I never even heard of the name before. I'm not in the mood for spending any more money, but I have a wanted ad up on Craigslist in the event an amazing deal comes my way. It's Republic Lagun. We have an old republic turnmaster at the school shop that is pretty awesome. 20+ years of student abuse and it's still the second best in the shop. They're still operating. Get the model and see if parts are still available. I'm not sure if this is a gigantic vertical lathe with milling attachment, or if that's just an indexing table. Either way, it makes me feel funny. 
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Jan 4, 2011 18:49
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Tonight, I upgraded my helping hand tool from this: To this:      I also made a little video to show it in action. WHEEE! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9yb4szCbvs Ignore the crap welds. I didn't bother trying to make it look nice. I'm all about function here. Not having a machine shop, I'd say this isn't too bad for 1" square tubing, nuts/bolts, a 220v buzzbox, and some clever grinding.
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Jan 6, 2011 05:38
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