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Sup Subaru bros, I've got a 2004 Wrx that has recently has been squeeling when I turn heat on in my car. Its exactly the same as this problem I found on youtube. I opened the hood and it does every thing the exact same. Only difference is mine doesnt matter if the AC is on or not. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv5bc3Ndrgg&feature=related The youtube comments werent much of a help? What's my course of action here? [edit] Judging by his follow up video it means the belts need to be replaced?
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Dec 30, 2010 21:00
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logistik posted:Sup Subaru bros, I've got a 2004 Wrx that has recently has been squeeling when I turn heat on in my car. Its exactly the same as this problem I found on youtube. I opened the hood and it does every thing the exact same. Only difference is mine doesnt matter if the AC is on or not. Yes its likely your AC compressor belt. When you have the heat on defrost it'll usually use the compressor like the AC is on. You could try to tighten it a bit and see if that helps but likely you're doing the belts. Do both at once to save some headache later.
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Dec 30, 2010 21:09
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I just got back from driving my mom's rav-4 around in the snow in Montana since I didn't have the time to drive myself up there this year. The awd in that thing loving sucks.
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Dec 30, 2010 21:18
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jamal posted:I just got back from driving my mom's rav-4 around in the snow in Montana since I didn't have the time to drive myself up there this year. The awd in that thing loving sucks. I've played with the AWD in a Rav4 (the slip and grip type) and it was the worst. Like this bad: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyLgYskj-oc&feature=related If you've created an AWD system that sucks that much then really all you've done is add a lot of complexity for nothing and should be publicly shamed.
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Dec 30, 2010 21:33
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8ender posted:Yes its likely your AC compressor belt. When you have the heat on defrost it'll usually use the compressor like the AC is on. You could try to tighten it a bit and see if that helps but likely you're doing the belts. Do both at once to save some headache later. In the process of doing both now. Getting both belts off were a breeze but now even with both loosened to the max I cant for the life of me get the new belts on. Is there something Im missing?
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Dec 31, 2010 00:14
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logistik posted:In the process of doing both now. Getting both belts off were a breeze but now even with both loosened to the max I cant for the life of me get the new belts on. Push down on your alternator  Unless of course you got the wrong size belts... How do the new belts size up to the old ones? Slightly smaller, or are we talking a few inches on the inside?
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Dec 31, 2010 00:24
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The size as far as I can tell is very very similar. I haven't measured with a measuring tape or anything but by my eye they look to be the same.
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Dec 31, 2010 00:29
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Just measured with and its about a half inch smaller the new ones. That sounds like too big a difference to me. Or will it be ok?
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Dec 31, 2010 00:33
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yes there are a few different belts. I never bothered remembering which go on which car.
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Dec 31, 2010 00:41
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I would say that half an inch is pretty acceptable from an old belt to a new belt. Which one specifically are you having trouble with? The AC belt or the Alternator belt?
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Dec 31, 2010 00:57
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Both Tbh. But now I have a new problem. I was running out of sunlight for the day and I needed my car tonight so I went to put my old belts on and as I was tightening back up the AC belt the red arrow part pulled apart from the body and the long bolt now just hangs there and is impossible to tighten. So I have no AC belt on at all until I fix that part. I forgot how much fun cars were, the part that broke seemed to be pretty brittle though I can't imagine why. Oh well, back to the drawing board I guess.
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Dec 31, 2010 01:14
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8ender posted:I've played with the AWD in a Rav4 (the slip and grip type) and it was the worst. Like this bad:
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Dec 31, 2010 01:40
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logistik posted:I was tightening back up the AC belt the red arrow part pulled apart from the body and the long bolt now just hangs there and is impossible to tighten. Sounds like you stripped the threads in the tensioner
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Dec 31, 2010 01:46
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logistik posted:Both Tbh. But now I have a new problem. I was running out of sunlight for the day and I needed my car tonight so I went to put my old belts on and as I was tightening back up the AC belt the red arrow part pulled apart from the body and the long bolt now just hangs there and is impossible to tighten. So I have no AC belt on at all until I fix that part. Ha, I did that too. The reason you couldn't get the belt back on was likely because you hadn't loosened the lock bolt that holds that tensioner in place. Go to your dealer and pick that piece up, it's $6: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=5485 Oh, and welcome to the subaru owner's club
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Dec 31, 2010 04:38
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 Hard to believe it's five years old. And still such a enormously satisfying thing to drive - took her for a week's driving for plenty of highway cruising and also mountain hard going. Still bizarre how much better at cornering the 06 is over the 07. Still feels tight after 100,000 kms too. And still utterly stock standard, I've never felt the need to do a drat thing. Dunno why anyone would whine about the interior when all she's built for is to go fast and she's so drat good at doing exactly that.
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Dec 31, 2010 05:13
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Amandyke posted:Ha, I did that too. The reason you couldn't get the belt back on was likely because you hadn't loosened the lock bolt that holds that tensioner in place. Go to your dealer and pick that piece up, it's $6: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=5485 Ty for parts number. Appreciate it. But I know how I did it. I did loosen the lock bolt I just tried to loosen it too far when it was past it's loosest. I just got the wrong belt sizes. At least im pretty sure.
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Dec 31, 2010 06:39
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My LGT saga continues. Oil light came on again after the dealer went over it. Same exact conditions. It turns on when the car has been driven for exactly two miles cold and the HVAC kicks on. Dealer hooked up the pressure gauge over night, drove the car in the morning and the pressures were dead nuts on to what they should be. Diagnosis: stupid electrical gremlin. I'm buying an oil pressure gauge and hooking it up to the oil galley. I'll chase the electrical BS later. In other news I dropped my RS tranny in 3 hours last night. Not bad for a cold night with plenty of beer/smoke/texting breaks.
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Dec 31, 2010 14:03
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Slow is Fast posted:Dealer hooked up the pressure gauge over night, drove the car in the morning and the pressures were dead nuts on to what they should be. Diagnosis: stupid electrical gremlin. I'm buying an oil pressure gauge and hooking it up to the oil galley. I'll chase the electrical BS later. You lucky bastard. You are now part of the fortunate 2% that see that light and it isn't a prelude to an engine destroying meltdown.
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Dec 31, 2010 16:14
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I've learned that the summer tires on the 2010 sti se are not very good in the snow  Then again, solid ice probably isnt good for any style tire unless they got those spikes in them. <3 the Hampton Roads area and surrounding cities that have zero real salt/plowing trucks.
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Dec 31, 2010 19:32
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Lando posted:I've learned that the summer tires on the 2010 sti se are not very good in the snow Haha I was just down in Williamsburg and was shocked at how much more snow it got compared to nova. Had to use the jeep's 4wd a few times just trying to get around parking lots and side streets
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Dec 31, 2010 20:20
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Cat Terrist posted:
Hey, unrelated to Subarus, but whenever a thread contains pictures from your alliancemotorsport site I get this:
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Dec 31, 2010 20:54
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Jared592 posted:Hey, unrelated to Subarus, but whenever a thread contains pictures from your alliancemotorsport site I get this: I suppose that is an indication of a true forums cancer  (joking)My sister got me the SPT turbo heat shield for my STi, while it probably doesn't add much, I'm excited for shiny pieces under the hood. Any GR hatch owners experiencing issues with hatch opening in cold weather? After unlocking and pressing the release, the hatch barely rises -- already twice this week I have hit my head while trying to reach into the rear storage area.
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Dec 31, 2010 21:15
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Yes I know and it's really seriously pissing me off. There IS no godamn malware in the code nor anything other than loving car pictures and cats. gently caress Google
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Jan 1, 2011 00:32
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In case anyone wants to see the dyno graph for my wagon: Click here for the full 1115x489 image.
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Jan 1, 2011 03:47
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Amandyke posted:In case anyone wants to see the dyno graph for my wagon: nice curve dude. anyone get a good xmas haul? i got a blitz axle-back to replace the too quiet turboxs muffler. i now have a melon shooter but i love the sound, and now my entire exhaust is 3 inches.
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Jan 2, 2011 00:56
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This is posted from my phone since I'm nowhere near an Internet connection, so please forgive any mistakes: I just picked up a new 2011 wrx almost two weeks ago now, and have driven it quite gently, generally keeping it below 3000 Rpms and never above 4000. I'm at 914 miles on the odo, and it's that high already since I took it on a road trip. Almost 90% of those miles is highway miles, and I did my best to piss off everyone by changing my rpms by speeding up and slowing down constanly and occasionally pulling over to get some city miles. That said, the problem that I have now is that the motor seems to want to stall when I let out on the clutch and it drops to idle rpm, and at a stand still the rpm will sometimes fluctuate between 500-750rpms, and has seldomly shook the entire car when doing so. I've also noticed that if I accelerate from a low rpm, the motor seems to sputter before taking off. I'm 200 miles from the neearest Subaru dealership. Anyone hav any advice on this, or what I should be looking for when/if I get it to a dealer? Kinda nervous about this, and don't want to gently caress up my car if I can avoid it. Any help is overwhelmingly appreciated - thanks folks 
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Jan 2, 2011 09:21
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes I know and it's really seriously pissing me off. There IS no godamn malware in the code nor anything other than loving car pictures and cats. gently caress Google Danger Doug posted:That said, the problem that I have now is that the motor seems to want to stall when I let out on the clutch and it drops to idle rpm, and at a stand still the rpm will sometimes fluctuate between 500-750rpms, and has seldomly shook the entire car when doing so. I've also noticed that if I accelerate from a low rpm, the motor seems to sputter before taking off. I'm 200 miles from the neearest Subaru dealership. Anyone hav any advice on this, or what I should be looking for when/if I get it to a dealer? Kinda nervous about this, and don't want to gently caress up my car if I can avoid it. Any help is overwhelmingly appreciated - thanks folks
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Jan 2, 2011 09:31
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Danger Doug posted:Does it do that shuddering when taking off *only* if you dog it, or does it do it if you slip the clutch at ~2k-2.5k rpm as well.
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Jan 2, 2011 09:49
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Cat Terrist posted:AMAZING RED WRX Holy poo poo. I thought my blue model looked good... but this picture makes me think that this model was born to be in red
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Jan 2, 2011 12:57
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nm posted:boost/vacuum leak. What are my options to fix this and is this a problem that never really goes away, and how pissed off should I be that this may be a problem on a brand new car? Everything I've found on it shows that it stems from some modification. @amandyke: the shuddering while moving occasionally happens when I am moving with the clutch fully engaged at 1900-2100rpm, and then accelerate. Like as if my pressing on the accelerator is choking the engine for a split second. I've never noticed it happen from a dead start. Thanks for the replies! Danger Doug fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 14:36
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Quick question regarding knock. I reset my ECU today and was using RomRadier to log. I noticed in the FKC that I had a few values of -2.11 which is telling me it detected knock and tried to correct. During my 10 minute drive, these were the only times it popped up in the log was during the below timeframe. The rest of my drive was knock free. code:Edit: Stock '05 WRX ECU. (Yes, knucklehead previous owner didn't tune for the catless DP. I have since replaced it with stock STI DP and Catback) Also, is there anything else I should be looking for in my data (MAF, A/F, etc) that would be a huge red flag? JayKay fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 16:11
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Knock correction while cruising around is normal, if you see it during WOT or heavy acceleration then it's usually cause for concern.
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Jan 2, 2011 17:58
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JayKay posted:When you first start the car up in the morning, do you hear anything that sounds like a clacking or diesel like noise? Next time you start it up *cold* turn off the radio and listen carefully. My engine had that kind of knock correction (low rpm, low load) and it was because of rod knock. Since it was only down low and not during any other time, I'd rule out poor fuel. Also: Does romraider allow you to pull the learned knock table? I'd take a look at that. If the ECU is storing a lot of knock events that'd potentially be no bueno. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 19:18
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Any of you Subaru fan Oregoons have a relatively flat entry heated garage that wants to have a suspension install day at your house sometime soon? A press would be a bonus as well! I've got some coilovers and a whole mess of bushings I've been sitting on for a couple of months now. I really wish we had one of those rental garages here. allonblack fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 19:25
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Danger Doug posted:That said, the problem that I have now is that the motor seems to want to stall when I let out on the clutch and it drops to idle rpm, and at a stand still the rpm will sometimes fluctuate between 500-750rpms, and has seldomly shook the entire car when doing so. This sounds like your car is still learning its idle point. My understanding of modern ECUs is that they learn the minimum point at which they can smoothly idle your car, and this takes some time (i.e. after an ECU reset or on a new car). Danger Doug posted:I've also noticed that if I accelerate from a low rpm, the motor seems to sputter before taking off. This seems normal for turbo Subarus that are below their spool point. I'd certainly try this test at various RPMs (try 500rpm increments): - part throttle at a given engine speed - give aggressive accelerator application - observe results at 2000, 2500, 3000, 3500 rpm My Legacy does this same "sputter" thing, I tend to believe this is just a bad area in the stock ECU throttle map.
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Jan 2, 2011 19:59
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Amandyke posted:When you first start the car up in the morning, do you hear anything that sounds like a clacking or diesel like noise? Next time you start it up *cold* turn off the radio and listen carefully. My engine had that kind of knock correction (low rpm, low load) and it was because of rod knock. Since it was only down low and not during any other time, I'd rule out poor fuel. It has a fluttery noise but I always attributed that to the normal Subaru noise/piston slap. Learning View lets me pull my knock table and if I remember pre-reset, it was pretty normal. Only a few negative values, many positive ones. I think since I just reset the ECU, it's empty, at least since I didn't see any FLKC events on the log. I'll do some more logging later with a few more WOT runs. Luckily I have access to some highways that pretty much require WOT when merging so you don't become roadkill. 
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Jan 2, 2011 23:13
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Jan 3, 2011 02:15
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Danger Doug posted:What are my options to fix this and is this a problem that never really goes away, and how pissed off should I be that this may be a problem on a brand new car? Everything I've found on it shows that it stems from some modification. Most boost/vacuum leaks means a hose popped off a junction.
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Jan 3, 2011 03:52
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Zap Branigan posted:Holy poo poo. I thought my blue model looked good... but this picture makes me think that this model was born to be in red And not exactly common either. I've only ever seen one other MY06/07 in the same shade. I know some dont like the 06 front end but I think like you the colour really gives it a great look.
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Jan 3, 2011 11:48
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I'm getting a light ticking/clicking noise from the passenger side firewall at around 2500 RPM at low boost. It doesn't modulate, change frequency, or volume under load. It does disappear once I start boosting so I'm guessing it might be wastegate related. Now I know for a fact I do have a small exhaust leak between the DP and catback. Would a exhaust leak cause the wastgate to have issues? Would the switch from the catless 3" turboback to the stock STI setup mess with it? I'll probably give tightening the wastegate adjustment screw a little bit and see if that helps
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Jan 3, 2011 18:59
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