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sixide posted:You make posts about "how to do it right" quite often, which prompted the snob comment. Look at this lovely post. Seriously, there are times when "what a guy says is correct" IS actually correct. You can spend minutes or years getting to the same conclusion, and it's your choice which timeframe. I have no idea why choosing the best path would be snobby, unless you believe that that only way to learn things is trial-and-error, which I'll go ahead and say sucks as advice. On topic, if you build a crappy bench you will either be hampered by it's limitations (and never know what a good bench could be doing for you), or you will be building a new bench much sooner than you'd like to. People who think a 3/4" plywood top is good enough are NOT doing the type or work I throw at my (new-ish) bench. If you really can't decide, I'd personally recommend: 1) visit friends with benches, use them, and understand your real needs, or 2) build or craigs-list-purchase a crap bench you absolutely plan to replace soon.
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Dec 29, 2010 05:56
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Cobalt60 posted:2) build or craigs-list-purchase a crap bench you absolutely plan to replace soon. Funny that I come to post right after this comment. I did #2 this evening, and I'm sure that it will get me through my current project and I can see what the issues are. Behold, the $120 Rolly-Bench:  It would have been about $30, but I opted for locking casters and built-in electric:  Click here for the full 540x720 image. MDF top will be the first thing replaced. If it does not even survive the project I am working on, I have a sheet of oak 1/4" ply that I can tack on to the top to make a bit more durable. The top was $11 worth of pre-cut MDF; I'm not going to cry if it gets destroyed. I got about 30 extra board-feet of Eastern White Maple from the project that I am working on, that will probably become a proper top for this after I know how much I have to work with. So, a good coat of Johnson's Wax on MDF will do for now: Click here for the full 540x720 image. A little extra storage for things I have been moving around every time I need space:  Click here for the full 720x540 image. I made it the same height as the bench that came with the house. In retrospect, I should have made it the same depth as well, but I'd rather do something different with the existing bench (it is really too deep to be efficient):  Click here for the full 720x540 image. So, there ya go. That's what I decided to do for a more useful, movable bench.
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Dec 29, 2010 06:16
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Christ, I know I've mentioned this before but I read an article once about a Mexican who built a tablesaw out of a washing machine motor and used pallets and still managed to turn out some stunning furniture. I don't see any problems with GEMorris' advice but I also don't have a problem with someone building something other than the ultimate rec.woodworking approved workbench when they are first starting out.
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Dec 29, 2010 10:23
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Bought a Delta 36-600 1.5hp table saw to replace my old Craftsman with the busted motor. I replaced the starting cap but did no good; cracked it open, spring clutch moved fine, I couldn't fix it. Would've been $75+parts to fix the motor and I found this Delta for $150 on Craigslist so buying another felt the best move. To upgrade the crappy Craftsman fence to a Delta would've been 150 alone anyway Setting it up tonight and then the building continues!
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Dec 30, 2010 04:09
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dwoloz posted:Bought a Delta 36-600 1.5hp table saw to replace my old Craftsman with the busted motor. You know you could probably just take the motor off of the Delta and put it on the Craftsman rather than go to all that trouble setting it up and all that  edit: I'd offer you money for the busted craftsman if I didn't live on the opposite corner of the country. mcrandello fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Dec 30, 2010 |
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Dec 30, 2010 05:22
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My dad taught me at an early age the virtues of the Craftsman warranty policy. IDK if this would apply to the table saw or not, but with SOME tools (like sockets and ratchet wrenches and stuff) you literally just walk in with a broken one and they give you a new one, no questions asked, and within 60 seconds you could be somewhere else eating a corn dog. But, then again, the craftsman chainsaw we bought was a piece of poo poo and the warranty wasn't that great on it, either. Always buy stihl 
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Dec 30, 2010 06:34
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The Scientist posted:My dad taught me at an early age the virtues of the Craftsman warranty policy. IDK if this would apply to the table saw or not, but with SOME tools (like sockets and ratchet wrenches and stuff) you literally just walk in with a broken one and they give you a new one, no questions asked, and within 60 seconds you could be somewhere else eating a corn dog. Craftsman hand tools have a lifetime replacement warranty. Break a socket wrench or a hammer and they'll just give you a new one. Hell, break a fifty year old hammer and they'll give you a new one that's closest to the old one. Power tools, on the other hand, do not have a lifetime warranty. They have, iirc, a 1 year limited warranty. Thus if you find a broken (or close to it) Craftsman hand tool at a flea market for a quarter, buy it, go to Sears and replace it. He's SOL on the table saw, though.
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Dec 30, 2010 08:48
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Craftsman hand tool guarantee/warranty anecdote time: my father (who, honestly, is old enough to be my grandfather) had an old tool from HIS grandfather. Some old wrench of some sort, I don't remember what exactly. It was literally a barely recognizable hunk of rust. On a whim, he took it into a local Sears. They pointed out the tools in question, and we walked out just a couple minutes later with a brand new $40 wrench. Of course, the old one, even as junky and uselessly rusted as it was, had impressed the clerk with its age and he let us keep the old one on the promise that we wouldn't do the same again elsewhere. So that's fun. Anyhow, carry on. v  v
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Dec 31, 2010 05:41
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That IS pretty cool. Glad they let you keep it, too. Also, what is your avatar? It hath transfixed me. I have an old corded hand drill I still use as my number one drill, 'cause coincidentally either the charger or both batteries on our black and decker firestorm set is hosed up. It still works great, and its literally older than me. Never needed new brushes in its life, chuck's still nice and has a smooth action and everything. What's the consensus on craftsman power tools?
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Dec 31, 2010 06:30
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I've traded in several Craftsman tools that I inherited. Once I traded in a hammer with a wooden handle that broke.
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Dec 31, 2010 08:29
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Does the craftsman guarantee extend to drill bits? It's kind of a middle-ground between power and hand tools. I've got a quick-change Craftsman Pro set where one of the bits spins freely in its base. The website mentions nothing about bits in their warranty section, but this isn't broken from misuse so I might give it a shot.
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Dec 31, 2010 14:51
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kaiger posted:Does the craftsman guarantee extend to drill bits? It's kind of a middle-ground between power and hand tools. I've got a quick-change Craftsman Pro set where one of the bits spins freely in its base. The website mentions nothing about bits in their warranty section, but this isn't broken from misuse so I might give it a shot. Consumables like saw blades and drill bits are not covered.
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Dec 31, 2010 17:41
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Ok, I have to share this off of the GBS thread "My name is Jamie, and I've decided to build a giant robot" Crazy guy in the woods decided to make his own loving lumbermill from found parts and a new engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6ON5IpUj0g&NR=1&feature=fvwp
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Dec 31, 2010 18:44
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/\ /\ /\ Holy poo poo! That's loving awesome! In my little world, I'm glad I bought that 12v Lithium Ion drill. I'm making an air hockey table for my daughter's birthday and it would suck to drill all those holes with my old 18v. If you are interested I am making one like this but only 2' by 3.75' http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Air-Hockey-Table-1/
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Jan 1, 2011 01:57
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Anubis posted:Ok, I have to share this off of the GBS thread "My name is Jamie, and I've decided to build a giant robot" Awesome rig out of mostly salvaged parts, my hats off to this man. Any tips on a less awkard way to cut 1/8" rabets on a table saw out of 1.5x.75 stock or do I really just need a better suited tool dwoloz fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Jan 1, 2011 |
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Jan 1, 2011 04:07
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/\ /\ /\ I use Feather Boards On the table and fence.
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Jan 1, 2011 06:27
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Heres what I'm trying to do I don't think a featherboard would work because its such a small awkward piece Another question, is it crazy to try to fabricate a zero clearance insert? My wacky saw apparently is non standard dwoloz fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jan 1, 2011 |
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Jan 1, 2011 06:57
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On the New Yankee Workshop he uses a "Tenon cutting jig" - I think that's what he calls it - which consists of a big ole clamp, like one of those big deep throated locking pliers clamps and a good flat surface opposite the clamping head to press the piece up against, and a part that fits into the bed ways and slides along to make sure it stays nice and parallel. Someone who has a much better idea what they're talking about and is not just describing something they see on a tv show could probably be nice enough to point you towards an actual product. Although personally I'd make my own. 
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Jan 1, 2011 18:17
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I've never really liked the entire idea of the tenoning jig. I always just score the lines for the cutout with a knife, then crosscut the piece just inside the line, and make a series of crosscuts, clear the area running it sideways over the top of the blade and then finish it up with a chisel. I mean, I understand that the setup time for the thing makes sense if you're cutting dozens of the things but I can never get over how unwieldy and awkward it looks. My way is probably twice as dangerous in reality but there it is if you want to try it.
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Jan 1, 2011 18:57
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dwoloz posted:Another question, is it crazy to try to fabricate a zero clearance insert? My wacky saw apparently is non standard No, I made the one below. Trace one of your stock inserts, cut outside the line on the bandsaw. Drill a fingerhole, sand until it's a tight fit. Countersink holes and use brass screws for levelers. I also put in a rare earth magnet just in case.  
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Jan 1, 2011 19:48
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To cut the slot on those, I assume you just mount it and bring the saw up from underneath, is that correct?
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Jan 1, 2011 19:50
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Messadiah posted:To cut the slot on those, I assume you just mount it and bring the saw up from underneath, is that correct? Yes
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Jan 1, 2011 20:22
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Is it true that sometimes people will cut the saw blade on a band saw, stick it in a hole and weld it back together so they can make inside cuts? Is it possible to use a scroll saw on metal? (Figure you guys would know a lot about scroll saws, although not necessarily as much about cutting metal)
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Jan 1, 2011 23:17
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mcrandello posted:I've never really liked the entire idea of the tenoning jig. I always just score the lines for the cutout with a knife, then crosscut the piece just inside the line, and make a series of crosscuts, clear the area running it sideways over the top of the blade and then finish it up with a chisel. Ya, that's another method, thanks. A dado blade would make work a bit faster. I'm building top bar bee hives like this:  I'm cutting rabets into the ends of the top bars so they positively engage into the box and can't move around. I'll be cutting a whole lot of rabets, 60 per hive box
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Jan 2, 2011 01:50
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The Scientist posted:Is it true that sometimes people will cut the saw blade on a band saw, stick it in a hole and weld it back together so they can make inside cuts? I cut the metal parts for this guitar on a scroll saw. [img]http://img.waffleimages.com/513adb41de851641bbf2c074f845c4f5e2d4530b/SDC10896%20[/url](640x480).jpg[/img] It took me breaking a few blades before I figured out the right speed, and how fast I could feed it into the blade.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:30
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Spent two days building an expo booth for my business, the basics are all there but I wish I had a lot more time to get everything just right. http://twitpic.com/3m6uuc
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Jan 2, 2011 06:07
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Nice job on the booth! What happens to the materials after the expo? Also, thanks ChaoticSeven for the zero clearance insert tips, going to make one soon.
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Jan 2, 2011 08:09
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Messadiah posted:To cut the slot on those, I assume you just mount it and bring the saw up from underneath, is that correct? To hold the insert down when you cut the slot, you can use the fence one one side, then a long board with clamps at the front and back of the table to hold down the other side. That's a hell of a lot safer than using your fingers. Just need to know exactly where that blade is going to poke through so you don't bring it up into your fence. The Scientist posted:Is it possible to use a scroll saw on metal? (Figure you guys would know a lot about scroll saws, although not necessarily as much about cutting metal) Keep in mind that there are different blades for metal and wood. Metal cutting blades have a more teeth per inch for a less aggressive cut.
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Jan 2, 2011 10:51
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dwoloz posted:Nice job on the booth! What happens to the materials after the expo? Thanks! Since this show is in-town, and the cost for moving stuff is basically just diesel fuel, we are going to keep everything. My garage has 10' ceilings so we are going to get a few more of those Hyloft storage things that hang from the joists and store it up and out of the way. As for out of town shows, or bigger shows, you would be amazed at the amount of stuff that is thrown away, its just mind boggling. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jan 3, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 16:23
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GEMorris posted:As for out of town shows, or bigger shows, you would be amazed at the amount of stuff that is thrown away, its just mind boggling. I've seen this in NYC at those mega-conferences. Sure, lots of stuff gets broken down and shipped for the next show, but the trash generated is truly obscene, especially when you consider the near-daily scheduling of conferences in the bigger locations. Ugh. On a brighter note, I particularly like how the class level of your booth makes the neighbor look like a junior high science fair project.
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Jan 2, 2011 19:37
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Been wanting to do one of these for awhile, so I did.
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Jan 2, 2011 21:41
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Oh poo poo, that's awesome. Mind explaining the process? Really just curious how you got everything to line up. I assume you'd cut two matching pieces at the same time, but the details would be interesting.
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Jan 2, 2011 22:21
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Yep, just take two or more boards of the same dimensions and contrasting colors, double stick tape them together and bandsaw some curves lengthwise. Glue them back together in alternating colors, matching the cuts. Then do the same thing on the narrow dimension. It's a bit of a pain to clamp and keep everything lined up just right.
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Jan 2, 2011 23:11
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That would make for a great basis to a psychedelic fantasy-based chess set..
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Jan 2, 2011 23:32
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Oooooh, I see what you did.
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Jan 3, 2011 00:02
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Cobalt60 posted:On a brighter note, I particularly like how the class level of your booth makes the neighbor look like a junior high science fair project. Ha! Thanks, next year we will specifically ask to not be near anyone who uses "Curlz" as their logo typeface, nor any videographers (they are fine people, but they loop the same clips over and over, so you hear the same 1 minute excerpts of 5 different songs all drat day). On topic, I used a Stanley 71 1/2 router plane, a veritas crosscut carcass saw, and a Miller's Falls hand plane during the installation of the booth. I was getting serious :  : looks from people. One photographer asked me if I was "some sort of master carpenter" (a laughable suggestion).
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Jan 3, 2011 03:06
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ChaoticSeven posted:Yep, just take two or more boards of the same dimensions and contrasting colors, double stick tape them together and bandsaw some curves lengthwise. Glue them back together in alternating colors, matching the cuts. Then do the same thing on the narrow dimension. It's a bit of a pain to clamp and keep everything lined up just right. If you have an extra few minutes anytime soon, I'd love even more detail. Or, is there an existing online tutorial for this? Sorry to have to ask, but even with this added insight, I just can't wrap my head around some of the logistics.
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Jan 3, 2011 18:58
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Cobalt60 posted:If you have an extra few minutes anytime soon, I'd love even more detail. Or, is there an existing online tutorial for this? It's mirrored down the middle. I was scratching my head for a while, too.
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Jan 3, 2011 19:58
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Here we go, finally clicked. It's precisely this:dja98 posted:The wood whisperer goes through a few options at the end of his cutting board video But instead of making the cuts on the tablesaw, you make them all wonky-like on the bandsaw. Easy! Now if only I had a bandsaw. :/ For added  I bet you could glue the halves up so you have two long halves, put one on a block as thick as the other, and overlap them slightly, then go down the middle cutting them both at the same time with another wigglycut, and then glue them together, thus removing the obvious mirror line down the middle.
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Jan 3, 2011 20:25
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Cobalt60 posted:If you have an extra few minutes anytime soon, I'd love even more detail. Or, is there an existing online tutorial for this? Here you go: http://lumberjocks.com/LateNightOwl/blog/18277 They have pictures and more words  That's also a loving goldmine for inspiration and project ideas.
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Jan 3, 2011 21:59
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