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Autism Sundae posted:How many miles do you have on yours? I think the engine is the same for new A3s and MKVI GTI (not entirely sure though), so oil burning issues should be fixed. Picked it up in November so not a whole lot. I do drive my cars though so it will climb fairly quick. Honestly the interior of my car feels pretty solid so I don't expect to get much if any rattle for quite some time. Audi and VW have been sharing the same engines, drive systems, misc parts and kittens for some time so yeah the 2.0T is the same for both brands. That's good to know though. I read on the vortex someone talking about it and then went looking for references without success. My biggest gripe about the VAG lineup in the US is that we don't get the options our euro friends do. 3 door hatch A3? Yes please. More engine options than you can shake a stick at? Hell yes!
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Jan 1, 2011 03:22
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Trying to change out my rear rotors/pads on my 2009 GTI and I simply cannot get the goddamn M14 bolts on the caliper carrier to come off. I am completely lost in what to do. I tried a breaker bar with a pipe on it to extend it, but there is like no goddamn room in the wheel well. I sprayed some blaster on it as well, but that didn't do a drat thing. Thinking of just popping the caliper back on and getting it done by someone unless anyone has any ideas on how to get this drat thing off.
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Jan 2, 2011 01:42
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Deget posted:There is the potential DSG problems, but they are supposed to be fixed or something now. Engine-wise the only thing I've found is some people saying it burns oil a bit. Build-wise there's nothing really I can think off offhand for now. I think most if not all of the DSG mechtronics failures were ironed out by the 09 TSI GTIs, then again there are 07s with 120k on the DSG boxes surviving without anything other than preventative maintenance. I haven't noticed any oil burning issues on my 10, but maintenance aside from clutch/tires is free for 4 years on all 09+ VWs.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:21
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Mister Duck posted:Trying to change out my rear rotors/pads on my 2009 GTI and I simply cannot get the goddamn M14 bolts on the caliper carrier to come off. I am completely lost in what to do. I tried a breaker bar with a pipe on it to extend it, but there is like no goddamn room in the wheel well. I sprayed some blaster on it as well, but that didn't do a drat thing. Are they the triple square bolts? You may need a shorter bit or get the car higer off the ground so you can use the breaker bar from below.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:36
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wav3form posted:Are they the triple square bolts? You may need a shorter bit or get the car higer off the ground so you can use the breaker bar from below. Yeah they are the triple square ones. I guess I could try getting a truck jack or something and lift it as high as possible.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:41
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Mister Duck posted:Trying to change out my rear rotors/pads on my 2009 GTI and I simply cannot get the goddamn M14 bolts on the caliper carrier to come off. I am completely lost in what to do. I tried a breaker bar with a pipe on it to extend it, but there is like no goddamn room in the wheel well. I sprayed some blaster on it as well, but that didn't do a drat thing. You may have tried already, but turn the wheel all the way in one direction so the rotor is at an angle and you can stick a breaker bar out of the wheel well.
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Jan 2, 2011 03:03
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NaturallyAspergated posted:You may have tried already, but turn the wheel all the way in one direction so the rotor is at an angle and you can stick a breaker bar out of the wheel well. It's the rear brakes unfortunately, so I can't just turn the wheels. I haven't even attempted the fronts yet, I've spent the whole day trying to get the goddamn rear caliper carriers loose.
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Jan 2, 2011 04:25
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Mister Duck posted:It's the rear brakes unfortunately, so I can't just turn the wheels. I haven't even attempted the fronts yet, I've spent the whole day trying to get the goddamn rear caliper carriers loose. Stick the short end of a hex key on there then either whack it with a hammer, or use the closed end of a wrench to get more torque. Chances are you wont be able to fit a breaker bar in there. edit: sorry I was thinking of the slider pins. your best bet is to get the closed end of your wrench on the bolt securely, find the best angle to produce the most force with a mallet/hammer, and rage on that motherfucker. RapeWhistle fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 07:08
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RapeWhistle posted:Stick the short end of a hex key on there then either whack it with a hammer, or use the closed end of a wrench to get more torque. Chances are you wont be able to fit a breaker bar in there. Yeah I am going to try that, thanks. I figure I might also try getting a pipe extension on a longer breaker bar and seeing about jacking the car up much higher. I can get a ratchet on the bolt from the bottom left side of the hub but I don't have enough ground clearance with my current jack height.
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Jan 2, 2011 14:43
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Mister Duck posted:Yeah I am going to try that, thanks. There's no real DIY trick to doing the rear brakes on your car. I specifically bought a 3 foot, flex head 80 tooth breaker bar for this job. Those bolts are always really tight and the job is a bitch.
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Jan 2, 2011 17:54
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my1999gsr posted:There's no real DIY trick to doing the rear brakes on your car. I specifically bought a 3 foot, flex head 80 tooth breaker bar for this job. Those bolts are always really tight and the job is a bitch. Yeah I am getting to the point where I am just going to pay someone to do this. If I was just replacing the pads I'd be golden right now, but I wanted to swap out the rotors too. It's just not worth my time anymore.
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Jan 2, 2011 18:54
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primitive posted:Is the Audi A3 35,000 mile service the same as the GTI 40,000 mile service? They look substantially similar but I just wanted to make sure. Checking my VW dealer's price sheet, they charge $350 extra on top of regular 40k service for the DSG transmission fluid. The 2.0T service is $480
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Jan 2, 2011 19:06
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Girlfriend's 09 Jetta had the passenger-side wiper blade insert tear this past weekend (she tried to use the wipers while they were iced to the windshield). What brand/part# to order for OEM-perfect fitment? I'll be replacing both driver and passenger while I'm at it. Thanks.
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Jan 3, 2011 13:39
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Hey my1999gsr (if you're still around), do you have AIM? I'd like to ask you a few questions if possible but don't want to clutter up this thread any worse than I already have.
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Jan 4, 2011 01:14
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JHVH-1 posted:Checking my VW dealer's price sheet, they charge $350 extra on top of regular 40k service for the DSG transmission fluid. The 2.0T service is $480 Kentucky must have some pretty affordable VW dealers. Paying $900 + tax for the service and also brakes on the back (my pads, their rotors), because gently caress if I'm going to do that job.
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Jan 4, 2011 14:27
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Does anyone know if the 2.0 turbo in MKVI GTIs is the same engine used in the 2010/11 A3s? The Audi engine is labeled TFSI, but I'm not sure if it's an updated FSI or a redesigned TSI. Wiki tells me they're both CCZA.. Autism Monday fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jan 4, 2011 |
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Jan 4, 2011 19:42
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Autism Sundae posted:Does anyone know if the 2.0 turbo in MKVI GTIs is the same engine used in the 2010/11 A3s? The Audi engine is labeled TFSI, but I'm not sure if it's an updated FSI or a redesigned TSI. CDN market 10/11 GTI engine code for the 2.0T is CBFA or CCTA and they are the same in the 10/11 A3.
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Jan 4, 2011 22:42
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Wamsutta posted:Girlfriend's 09 Jetta had the passenger-side wiper blade insert tear this past weekend (she tried to use the wipers while they were iced to the windshield). What brand/part# to order for OEM-perfect fitment? I'll be replacing both driver and passenger while I'm at it. Thanks. OEM part numbers: Drivers: 1Q1 955 425 A 03C Pass: 1Q1 955 426 A 03C
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Jan 4, 2011 22:45
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Autism Sundae posted:Hey my1999gsr (if you're still around), do you have AIM? I'd like to ask you a few questions if possible but don't want to clutter up this thread any worse than I already have. No sorry - no AIM. You can still ask here in the thread though.
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Jan 4, 2011 22:46
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primitive posted:Kentucky must have some pretty affordable VW dealers. Paying $900 + tax for the service and also brakes on the back (my pads, their rotors), because gently caress if I'm going to do that job. Just had a great experience at Don Jacobs VW in Lexington, KY. They quoted ~$950 for the 40k service and rear brakes, which was in the ballpark of what I was expecting, so I went ahead and authorized the repairs. What I was not expecting to do today was to have my new suspension installed. The service advisor wanted me to bring it up so he could quote a price for me. I had to have him say the quote twice -- only $267. I said "yes" so fast it would make your head spin. (It might have helped my case that I also brought with me every bolt, nut, and washer needed for the install, all OEM, from ECS Tuning.) So now I'm rocking Koni FSD dampers and Eibach Pro-Kit springs. And a big smile on my face.
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Jan 4, 2011 23:17
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my1999gsr posted:CDN market 10/11 GTI engine code for the 2.0T is CBFA or CCTA and they are the same in the 10/11 A3. Thanks, I think they might be coming up CCZA here in California because of emissions stuff. Have you had any experience with 10/11 A3s? What are their weaknesses if any? Do they suffer from carbon buildup or any other major issues that you know of?
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Jan 5, 2011 00:53
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks, I think they might be coming up CCZA here in California because of emissions stuff. From what I can tell, the CCZA motor doesn't exist in North America - it doesn't even show up in my service literature which does include the California emissions engine which I believe is the CBFA. So far we haven't had much trouble at all with the 10/11 A3 - it's my favorite VAG vehicle right now. There's a recall/TSB for Mechatronic transmission control unit replacement in the case of a hard 1-2 shift and a few software update issues but nothing too crazy.
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Jan 5, 2011 02:36
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Autism Sundae posted:Thanks, I think they might be coming up CCZA here in California because of emissions stuff. I think CBFA should be the SULEV vehicle, super low emissions for Cali and some other areas. It has an extra hose coming out of the airbox. Why do I know this? Because I sit and read gti forums like a doofis researching my next upgrade.
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Jan 5, 2011 03:38
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my1999gsr posted:From what I can tell, the CCZA motor doesn't exist in North America - it doesn't even show up in my service literature which does include the California emissions engine which I believe is the CBFA. They're still having the hard shift issue crop up? As much as I don't like hearing about potential issues (I get paranoid) it's better than having to fix a problem myself and end up hearing about the issue much later down the road (loving coil-packs). I was under the impression that the hard shift issue was pretty much resolved.
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Jan 5, 2011 03:42
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my1999gsr posted:From what I can tell, the CCZA motor doesn't exist in North America - it doesn't even show up in my service literature which does include the California emissions engine which I believe is the CBFA. Yeah, I guess it is CBFA, I think I even posted about GTI's engine code before. Do you know if A3s tend to have as many rattles as the Golf/GTI? My car is driving me loving insane with everything buzzing like someone emptied a beehive behind the dash and interior panels. I'm really really tempted to replace my car - it's got a great transmission, lots of power, great seats, and it's got the best steering wheel in class, but also tons of electrical problems, suspension clangs, and a build quality one would expect from a finest Soviet automobile circa 1979. Problem is, there just aren't many cars besides the A3 that are as nice as the GTI...
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Jan 5, 2011 08:25
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A few months ago I took my 2006 Audi A6 4.2 in for service and got this wild idea to have them change the transmission fluid while it was there. The car is sitting at around 70,000 kilometers, and in the interest of a long lasting transmission I figured a fluid change was a good idea. Doing research on various sites, I had expected the fluid change to cost upwards of $800. Worth it? Probably not, but I was more than willing to pay the price for peace of mind. When I returned to pick up the car, I was presently surprised with the $200 cost for the transmission fluid change. I asked the service manager if that was the right price and the right fluid and he assured me that the Audi universal fluid was correct. Almost instantly after leaving the dealer I noticed that the car was shifting very rough and almost as though it was having trouble downshifting (imagine someone driving stick and being a little too quick on the throttle and slow on the clutch). When I asked the service manager he said this was normal and that the transmission was just adapting after the fuild change. Now, months later, it's still doing it and might even be getting worse. When slowing, the car will upshift to 2nd and then 1st when coming to a stop and it is rather harsh and causing a slight shutter. Is this normal? Should I be going back to the dealer and raising hell? Or do I just need to learn to live with it. From what I could find on the various Audi forums, the fluid should cost around $80 a bottle. Do you think it would be worthwhile just to pick some up on my own and take it to an independent shop? I just want to make sure I'm not causing even more damage to the transmission in the meantime. Thanks! DrCold fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 16:57
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Looking for a little troubleshooting advice. I've got a 2004 1.8T Jetta that has been bulletproof for its first 185,000km, it's now having issues holding boost. When accelerating it can't hold boost past around 8 or 9 psi, the motor is running smooth and boosts normally up to that threshold and then I get a "wuff wuff wuff" noise and the car hesitates. I've driven it since then just keeping it out of boost as I'm assuming that hesitation isn't doing my shaft any favors. I'm curious if it sounds to anyone like a normal vacuum leak or if it's more symptomatic of a diverter valve on its last legs. Is there any easy way to test a DV without just buying a new one and popping it in? Also if that's not what it is, any tips for tracking down leaks in the turbo system?
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Jan 5, 2011 17:02
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I'm thinking about buying a 2003 TDI beetle, how badly am I going to hate myself? It's got 11,000 miles, the previous owner was a respected local diesel mechanic, it's been garaged all its life, and at least half the miles are freeway as it was driven across the country and back. It's been sitting for a few years since the guy died, I think he bought it for his wife but she liked her old car better or something silly like that. I've never driven one, but really all I need it to do is start when I turn the key and move myself, a medium sized dog, a couple bags of groceries, and a case of beer around with a minimum of fuss, along with the occasional thousand mile freeway blast. From what I've heard the TDI engines and 5 speed manual transmission were relatively solid, it was just the rest of the car that would drive you nuts. Any major issues I should be aware of, and anything I should look for?
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Jan 5, 2011 17:29
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drzrma posted:I'm thinking about buying a 2003 TDI beetle, how badly am I going to hate myself? It's a VE diesel with a 5 speed, you could put rats in the gas tank and nails in the crank case and it'd still find a way to make itself go forward
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Jan 5, 2011 18:04
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DoesNotCompute posted:Looking for a little troubleshooting advice. I've got a 2004 1.8T Jetta that has been bulletproof for its first 185,000km, it's now having issues holding boost. When accelerating it can't hold boost past around 8 or 9 psi, the motor is running smooth and boosts normally up to that threshold and then I get a "wuff wuff wuff" noise and the car hesitates. I've driven it since then just keeping it out of boost as I'm assuming that hesitation isn't doing my shaft any favors. I had a similar experience with my 2005 A4 1.8T. It was the DV and I replaced it with one of those fancy APR ones (http://shop.achtuning.com/apr-dv-100001-motorsport-r1-diverter-valve.aspx). I also had the APR programing so that was definately the cause of it.
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Jan 5, 2011 18:28
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Just the thread I was looking for! Let me preface this by saying I am a complete car noob. I have a 2005 Audi A3 2.0 TDI with 90k miles on the clock. I took it to my local Kwik Fit the other day to get the oil changed and brake pads replaced and they told me that my front bushings were split and should be replaced. A quick google shows that bushings are related to suspension and steering (still unclear on this), and indeed should be replaced if they're damaged. The bushings on my car appear to be originals - quite a stretch for a 5 year old car with 90k. Right Bushing - split at 10 and 7 o'clock Left Bushing - split at 2 and 5 o'clock Do these look like they need to be replaced? What symptoms should I be experiencing from worn bushings? What does it indicate about the area where the splits are located (both on the inner-side)? Kwik Fit have quoted £300 however I have shopped around my local Audi dealers and found a better price of £240 with a wheel alignment included. Do these look like decent prices? Thanks in advance!
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Jan 5, 2011 21:13
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DrCold posted:A few months ago I took my 2006 Audi A6 4.2 in for service and got this wild idea to have them change the transmission fluid while it was there. The car is sitting at around 70,000 kilometers, and in the interest of a long lasting transmission I figured a fluid change was a good idea. First, your fluid part number is G 055 005 (9.5 qt) or 052 180 A2 (7.9 qt) if CVT transmission Get that fluid out of your transmission right now - there's no "universal" trans fluid for VW/Audi vehicles as new as yours and there's a good chance that it's causing damage. The transmission adaptation process should have taken very little driving time depending on driving style and trip duration. Should you raise hell at your dealership? Find out the part number of the fluid they used (they'll have the actual Audi part number on the internal work order paper work). If it's not correct then they should be paying for fluid replacement and labor - there's no excuse for using the wrong fluid at a dealership since the info is easily available. Take it to an independent shop? I wouldn't unless they're very familiar with VAG products and know what's required to successfully complete the process - it's not as simple as drain and refill.
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Jan 6, 2011 00:18
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drzrma posted:I'm thinking about buying a 2003 TDI beetle, how badly am I going to hate myself? Drivetrain is top-notch and tough as they come but I rarely recomend the Beetle to anyone just because it has some things that make it a pain in the rear end like headlight replacement, a very tight engine bay, weak seat mechanisms and so on. It's not a "bad" car but everything is just a little more difficult on them. Still, the one you're looking at sounds very good, especially with the TDI. The only problem with an older, low mileage TDI is that the wastegate actuator valve's linkage can seize which can result in under/overboost problems. A road test should reveal that problem though - the car should pull decently. If it feels very sluggish or there's a MIL on it might be worth a trip to your local VW dealer to have it looked over just in case.
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Jan 6, 2011 00:30
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Deget posted:They're still having the hard shift issue crop up? As much as I don't like hearing about potential issues (I get paranoid) it's better than having to fix a problem myself and end up hearing about the issue much later down the road (loving coil-packs). I was under the impression that the hard shift issue was pretty much resolved. I don't know if the newer A3/GTI/Eos are suffering from the hard shift problem but I've replaced a couple of 2010 GTI mechatronic units for hard shifting that didn't fall under the recall.
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Jan 6, 2011 00:33
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Underking posted:Just the thread I was looking for! Let me preface this by saying I am a complete car noob. I have a 2005 Audi A3 2.0 TDI with 90k miles on the clock. I took it to my local Kwik Fit the other day to get the oil changed and brake pads replaced and they told me that my front bushings were split and should be replaced. A quick google shows that bushings are related to suspension and steering (still unclear on this), and indeed should be replaced if they're damaged. The bushings on my car appear to be originals - quite a stretch for a 5 year old car with 90k. Well, I've seen those bushings go bad before - it's not unusual but many of the ones I've done were replaced under warranty. The bushings you're talking about are at the rear of the front lower control arms and they're used to locate the rear pivot points of the control arm and buffer road shocks as the suspension moves. There's no reason for an alignment if you have those bushings replaced - they're held to the subframe and body by 3 bolts and none of them have any alignment angles that would be altered during removal. Still, the quoted price for replacement AND alignment is not bad at all (IIRC, each bushing is around $100 CDN plus $25 in bolts and an hour in labor) so all in all, it's a decent price.
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Jan 6, 2011 00:46
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DoesNotCompute posted:Looking for a little troubleshooting advice. I've got a 2004 1.8T Jetta that has been bulletproof for its first 185,000km, it's now having issues holding boost. When accelerating it can't hold boost past around 8 or 9 psi, the motor is running smooth and boosts normally up to that threshold and then I get a "wuff wuff wuff" noise and the car hesitates. I've driven it since then just keeping it out of boost as I'm assuming that hesitation isn't doing my shaft any favors. Boost problems are a little harder to diagnose without looking at the car - usually I can watch and read a variety of inputs to get a better idea of what's going on. It's certainly possible that you've got a diverter valve problem but I'm not a big fan of throwing parts at a problem without a little more diagnostic time.
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Jan 6, 2011 00:51
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my1999gsr posted:First, your fluid part number is G 055 005 (9.5 qt) I dug up the paperwork from the service and all it says is "UNIVER/SYN.ATF." I'll take a wild guess and say that doesn't look like a genuine Audi part number. I called the dealer today (St. James Audi, Winnnipeg, MB) and they had me schedule a service with them for next Thursday. They want to do a test drive as they keep telling me that there's nothing wrong and there is only one type of fluid. Thanks for the part number (I have the non CVT transmission), I'll be sure to have them double check. Any other info or tips you can throw my way would help too. Thanks again, you're a life saver.
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Jan 6, 2011 03:42
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my1999gsr -- I had occasion to look at the bill from my last service, and I see that the dealer used 5w-30 synthetic in my 2007 GTI. I was of the impression that 5w-40 was preferred, but that any 502.00 approved oil would do in a pinch. Called up the service manager and he said that VW released guidance last year to use 5w-30 in part because 5w-40 was "hard to find." Should I insist on using the factory fill as specified in my owner's manual? Or is the 5w-30 that they used fine? I have the part number if that makes a difference.
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Jan 6, 2011 15:43
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primitive posted:my1999gsr -- FWIW, 505.01 5W-30 causes my TDI massive problems to the point of ejecting the dipstick out of the tube and dumping all my oil into the bellypan, or blowing out the oil filter O-ring. 505.01 5W-40 does no such thing.
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Jan 6, 2011 18:48
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my199gsr - owner at my local shop noticed some oil dripping from the turbo cutoff valve area when they were rotating my tires, he said there's a small seepage from the cutoff seal and told me to take it to the dealer. The dealership inspected it and is saying the seepage is normal and they won't do anything about it. Does that sound right to you?
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Jan 6, 2011 21:09
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