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Debut III upgrade doodad trip report: - 2M Blue: first time I've ever changed a cartridge (I swapped out a stylus on my old ATLP50 but that's it) so every step was an agonizing nervewracking experience. The difference, however, is unbelievable; there's stuff I'm hearing in records for what feels like the first time ever. - Acryl-It platter: totally worth it just to eliminate the motor noise; it used to drive me crazy hearing that GRCHNK-GRCHNK-GRCHNK between the tracks and now it's pretty much just gone. Bass sounds more responsive too, but I installed it at the same time as the cartridge so I dunno where to give credit. Also I figure it'll help the resale value if/when I decide to sell off the Debut III and move up to an Xpression. - AcousTech Stylus Force Gauge: saw this recommended upthread as a way to ensure proper calibration and BOY am I glad I listened. expensive but worth it for the peace of mind of knowing you set your poo poo up right (although it certainly does leave you wondering how much you hosed up your records before you got it!) - Zerodust: works!
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Jan 2, 2011 01:43
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trdn89 posted:Debut III upgrade doodad trip report: I just installed my new Shure M97xE and my cuticles or whatever they're called are torn to shreds because my fingers kept slipping when trying to push the tiny connectors into the cartridge. And that was just the fun part. Aligning the thing was an experience that made me appreciate the type of cartridge that just plugs into the headshell connector; my other turntable has an Ortofon Concorde Pro S, used primarily for playing those not-so-pristine records. I think the worst thing is worrying you're going to break something because the cartridge and especially the connectors on it are so tiny. Even though the M97xE goes for about half the price of an Ortofon 2M Blue around here, I'd rather not waste a day's pay by destroying one.
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Jan 2, 2011 02:03
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Getting the clips on in the first place is the tricky part. I use a small pair of curved pliers to gently grip them and slide them onto the correct pins. I then use a standard screwdriver to slide them up snug. If the clips don't seem tight enough, pop them back off and give them a gentle squeeze with the pliers and pop them back on. The trick is not breaking the wires off or crushing the clips.
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Jan 2, 2011 05:50
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Kinda peeved. Just unpacked my RPM1 and it's running slowly, even with the Speed Box. All signs point to the motor being hosed... At least I've still got the SL-10 to keep me going.
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Jan 2, 2011 06:15
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That's a real bummer. Have you checked the platter bearing for lubrication or a lack thereof and if the motor turns just as slowly without the load of the belt and platter on it? If it's anything like a Rega, there should be a steel ball bearing at the bottom of the platter or sub platter bearing cup stuck in place with 90(?) weight gear oil. How is the motor itself situated in it's mounting? Could something be pressing against the other end of the motor's shaft or generally impeding it's rotation? The only other thing I can think of is a faulty motor bearing or a shorted turn in the windings. I hope you can return it to the place of purchase if all else fails. Edit: That's odd since the specs on Pro-Ject's own site specify that the power supply produces 12 volts on that model so one would assume it used a 12 volt motor. You are correct that the Debut uses a 16 volt motor as far as I remember. Just saw that the motor replacememnt for the 1.3 is $99 USD. Ouch. The motor for the Debut line was $48. Dumb question: What's the frequency of the mains in Australia? I know on the Rega line, where you live determines what size pulley goes on top of the motor. I think 50 Hz turns a bit slower than 60 Hz. I would think the speed box would produce a perfect sine wave the world over but I'm not sure. Just saw that they sell the pulley that covers most turntables as being for 60Hz as used here in the US. I'd hope your problem is just a pulley since the replacememnt should only be $30. Do you have a test record with 400 or 1000Hz bands and a frequency counter (sometimes built into higher end DMMs) to test speed accuracy? I'd try polishing that pulley down with fine grit sandpaper until I got it right. I'm a bit crazy though. Er... hold on. Wouldn't the pulley have to be bigger? I forget. Paperweight fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Jan 2, 2011 |
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Jan 2, 2011 07:35
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Paperweight posted:That's a real bummer. Have you checked the platter bearing for lubrication or a lack thereof and if the motor turns just as slowly without the load of the belt and platter on it? If it's anything like a Rega, there should be a steel ball bearing at the bottom of the platter or sub platter bearing cup stuck in place with 90(?) weight gear oil. How is the motor itself situated in it's mounting? Could something be pressing against the other end of the motor's shaft or generally impeding it's rotation? The only other thing I can think of is a faulty motor bearing or a shorted turn in the windings. I hope you can return it to the place of purchase if all else fails. It's 4 years old, ergo no warranty. It's also got a 16v synchronous AC motor, so any manual method of adjusting the speed is going to involve either turning a new slightly smaller pulley, or coming up with a new frequency generator to drive it. No problems with the platter or the motor mounting (the motor is basically bolted to a bracket which is then screwed to the wooden motor platform, not much can go wrong with it). I might look at swapping it for something else, or at least ask the Pro-Ject distributor how much a new motor is as a spare part - It's the same motor used in the entire Debut and the bottom end of the RPM range.
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Jan 2, 2011 12:09
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metaxus I'm sure you're looking for a better solution but this project always tickled the tinker fancy, he's got plans for freq generator to drive motors and talks motor tech http://www.altmann.haan.de/turntable/
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Jan 2, 2011 19:28
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trdn89 posted:Debut III upgrade doodad trip report: What did you use to calibrate your cartridge? I saw that you got the stylus force gauge but that doesn't calibrate your cartridge does it? Just a force gauge, right? At least that is what I have read so far.
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Jan 2, 2011 21:33
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Dankness posted:What did you use to calibrate your cartridge? I saw that you got the stylus force gauge but that doesn't calibrate your cartridge does it? Just a force gauge, right? At least that is what I have read so far. I aligned it with the protractor which came with the turntable, then used the force gauge to make sure it's set to exactly the right tracking force.
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Jan 2, 2011 22:17
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For those of you who have a turntable that shipped without a protractor, there is some here for you folks. Added bonus!!! Vinyl Engine contains one of the better, elitist free turntable forums of the internet.
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Jan 3, 2011 03:47
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Edit: Got sound to come out but What are the recommended axis settings on the tonearm of a technics 1200 mk2 with a shure m97xe Peacebone fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jan 3, 2011 |
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Jan 3, 2011 22:29
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SL-1200 ships with an overhang gauge(a), and M97 ships with a protractor(b). (a)  (b) 
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Jan 4, 2011 10:03
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Does anyone make a new turntable that has a more vintage look, for under $200? I'm putting together a little hi-fi area, I have my receiver ready to go, but I don't know the first thing about turntables and I feel like I would do more good than harm by hitting the flea market and buying whatever looks cool.
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Jan 6, 2011 04:54
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"[panic posted:"] I'm not sure what you mean by "vintage look" but the Technics SL-1200 is pure 70's design and it's still in production. The bad news is that you likely can't get one for under 200 USD. The good news is that there are a lot of clones out there that look basically the same. Omnitronic and American Audio brand TT's in this style have been available for pretty cheap although I don't know the current situation. They're not very good but passable in home use - especially since it's easy to upgrade the cartridge later on. You'd probably want to get a new mat for the platter, though, as they tend to come with pretty tacky slip-mats. EDIT: Do not get one of those faux-retro record players they've been selling for under 100 USD for some years now. You know, the ones with the wood panel sides and a dust cover that has a hole in the side because the record platter is actually a lot smaller than an LP. Doesn't matter what brand it is - it will suck and you will regret it. 3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jan 6, 2011 |
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Jan 6, 2011 05:26
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"[panic posted:"] What do you mean by vintage look specifically? Something art deco looking or 60s/70s mahogany wood grainy or just something else?
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Jan 7, 2011 01:52
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Been looking for something with a bit more power than my 15 watt tube amp can provide for a pair of inefficient bookshelf speakers. Was browsing around Newegg looking at graphics cards for open box deals. Happened to look at their receivers and saw the Harman/Kardon HK-3490 stereo receiver for $299. It offered 120 watts and has a phono input. The reviews didn't look too bad and the price was affordable and better than most other stores so I ordered one. It arrived today. I'll set it up when I get more time Sunday. I have to find a place to put the other amp and move stuff around. I unfortunately tweeked my back at work stacking heavy pallets. I can barely shamble from place to place so this is going to be fun.
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Jan 8, 2011 05:26
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Paperweight posted:tweeked my back at work Compo payout and time off to listen to records yeaaaahhh.
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Jan 9, 2011 03:25
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I figure since I bought some kickin rad speakers and got my living room halfway setup, I may as well post a picture. Also, I should mention I'm seriously looking into building a Nelson Pass First Watt F5 amp. Don't know if there are any DIYers out there but I've heard great things about them and they can be built for under $500, I believe. Ghumbs fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Jan 9, 2011 |
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Jan 9, 2011 05:09
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Ron Burgundy posted:Compo payout and time off to listen to records yeaaaahhh. I didn't report it like a dummy. It didn't start hurting until the next morning. I do this about once or twice a year. It stops hurting after a couple of days. One day I'm really going to mess it up and not recover so easily. I'm taking a vacation starting this Wednesday so I should be okay by next week if not sooner. Probably herniated a disk or compressed the cartilidge. Happens every time I forget to use my back brace. I'm a type A pissy rear end high strung Yankee surrounded by type B lazy rear end in a top hat southerners that don't want to do anything. I end up getting pissed and stack the pallets up the right way when I get tired of looking at them strung out in small piles of 3 or 4 all across the back dock. Half the time they block up the unloading area. Lifting a 70 pound pallet over your head in anger probably isn't a good idea. I took all my records over to the neighbor's house where we have a combined collection. I'll have to wonder over there and borrow a few. I think I've turned him into a bigger vinyl nut than me. A note about microline or fine line type stylus. I have a Gyger II tip on this Goldring 1012 GX cartridge. If your turntable doesn't have a VTA adjustment, you would probably be better off with an elliptical or round type tip. I'm still trying to dial in the sweet spot for this cartridge after installing a VTA adjustment ring on my Goldring (Rega P2 clone) turntable. The bass still sounded great but the highs don't seem to really pop out until you start adding in some height under the tonearm. An Ortofon 2M Red or Blue sound great without a lot of problems. The Orange and Black in the 2M line use finer tips that are a bit fussier about how they're set up. I think I'm starting to repeat myself a lot. drat old age is creeping up on me. Edit: Receiver works at least on low volume. I have yet to crank it or set it up with the subwoofer. Ordered another record brush and Zerodust stylus cleaner. In a fit of Christmas spirit, I gave the last set away to a friend. Edit 2: Everything sounds freakin awsome. Still need stands for the pair of Polk Monitor 40 bookshelf speakers. Not bad for $109 a pair from Newegg. The Klipsch RW-12D sub (another Newegg special) fills out the bottom beautifully. Vacation is off due to weather. I hate frickin retail. My indecisive manager finally okayed my vacation yesterday. Listening to Dark Side of the Moon and Gnarles Barkley on vinyl. Sounds fantastic. Run the VTA as far up as I could and still have some threads for the nut to grip the RB250s mounting post. The highs finally sound like they moved forward in the mix. Might have a bit of sibilance now. I think it needs some break in to make sure. The amp and speakers are still new along with the new tonearm wiring. It may not be to everyone's taste but The Black Eyed Peas The End sounds fantastic on vinyl and goes really deep in the bass department. Paperweight fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Jan 17, 2011 |
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Jan 9, 2011 05:56
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OK, need an opinion on a few decks: Technics SL-Q2 (no dust cover, $50) http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/2151000245.html Pioneer PL-518 ($100) http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/2149176427.html I have a Pioneer SX-780 receiver, so I'm leaning towards the PL-518, but I really don't know how those two match up.
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Jan 9, 2011 22:05
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"[panic posted:"] I had a pioneer pl something awhile ago and it would skip every time you walked into the room it was in. Whichever one you want just make sure it's sturdy.
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Jan 9, 2011 22:51
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I got a SL-Q2 secondhand for $50 last year & it's a really well-made direct-drive turntable. In the research I did, people kept calling it the 'SL-1200's lil bro' - strong motor, heavy plinth, no-fuss operation. No manual pitch adjustment or fine tonearm adjustments but if you want those you're gonna have to spend more. oh and the whole unit is heavy as gently caress so you don't have to worry too much abt footsteps making your tracks skip. As long as it's spinning at the right speed (remember, no manual override) and looks well-kept it should run for years. Having no cover would prolly kill it for me tho (do all cats love jumping on running TTs?) milk teeth fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jan 11, 2011 |
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Jan 11, 2011 21:23
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Hey guys, I have a few questions about my setup and I thought you would be the best place to ask. I have some JVC equipment from the 80's that used to be my dad's. He recently upgraded to a newer stereo and let me have his. I have a receiver, a CD player, a tape deck, and a radio tuner. (Only the receiver and CD player are in this photo.)  Click here for the full 1258x793 image. The two speakers are Synergistics, a brand I'm not familiar with. Here they are, and the logo:  Click here for the full 934x1400 image.  Click here for the full 933x623 image. I think that the receiver/CD player/etc. is actually quite good, but I'm having a lot of trouble finding that out, as there is something wrong with the speakers. In one of the speakers, bass notes produce a noticeable rattling noise. I took off the screen on the front of the speaker to look at it, and noticed that if I lightly pressed on the speaker, the rattle stopped (the volume also decreased, and everything sounds muted).  Click here for the full 1400x934 image. Do you guys think this is something I might be able to fix myself, or are the speakers trashed? If so, what would be some reasonably priced replacements I could get?
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Jan 12, 2011 17:31
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Speakers are a coil of wire suspended in a magnetic gap. If the coil becomes canted to one side or the other instead of perfectly centered, it will rub against the magnet possibly causing a noise similar to what you describe. A damaged or deteriorated suspension may be the cause of the rub. The coils are sometimes formed around nothing more sturdy than thick paper. Needless to say, they are easily deformed. Remove the suspect driver and have a look inside the speaker cabinet. There may be loose wiring, debris or the crossover has come loose from it's mounting causing a sympathetic vibration. Look at the parts on the crossover. Sometimes they use electrolytic bipolar caps that may explode or leak over time or a resistor may have gone up in smoke. Check for loose parts on the exterior of the cabinet as well. Make sure all bolts and screws are snug without overtorquing anything. Most cabs are made of medium density fiberboard that flakes apart easily so be careful. Take note of the markings on the speaker itself. If you have determined that it's not a cabinet related problem, your speaker is the suspect. You could have it reconed but it may cost more than it's worth. Your best bet may be to find a replacement or a generic equivelent with the same impedance, power handling and Thiel/Small figures close to the original (if you can find them). You should be able to find raw drivers for well under $100 each. http://www.parts-express.com/speakers.cfm This company has a pretty decent array of speakers of all sizes. They also offer reconing. I just filled out a quote form for a Pioneer 12" speaker of unknown model number and it spit back $63 not including shipping both ways. It may come back sounding a bit different from the original but hey at least it won't rattle. They'll probably use a cone material, spider, surround etc that is not original since those parts are no longer available. It's probably not a good idea to push on a woofer that is in good working order. It can cause a misalignment, damage the suspention or cause a rub that can permanently damage it. Paperweight fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jan 12, 2011 |
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Jan 12, 2011 21:26
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fireflygrave posted:
They were a house brand speaker, "value leaders" for companies like Stereo Discounters. OEMed by 'RtR Speakers'..... Synergistics Maybern Company in Cleveland, Ohio. In 1981, they moved manufacturing to the RTR complex in Canoga Park California.
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Jan 13, 2011 21:04
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Anybody here have any experience with tube amps? I recently got a chance to hear some tube equipment and it really piqued my interest. Would this be a decent entry level unit to play around with: http://www.aloaudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=401 ? I'd be using my Marantz 2230 as a preamp and using a set of speakers with a high sensitivity rating (102db), which I understand is necessary with low watt tube amps.
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Jan 13, 2011 22:27
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That's pretty neat. Never seen those before. If single-ended low power amps are to your taste, I'd say go for it. There are kits out there for those who are handy with a soldering iron to build for a bit less than that. For a finished product, that isn't too outrageous. I'm still suprised by how loud a single watt can be with an efficient pair of speakers. I used to mess around with old battery powered vacuum tube portable AM radios. Their output tube only produced a 1/4 watt or less but it was loud enough to fill the room.
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Jan 14, 2011 01:10
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Paperweight posted:Getting the clips on in the first place is the tricky part. I use a small pair of curved pliers to gently grip them and slide them onto the correct pins. I then use a standard screwdriver to slide them up snug. If the clips don't seem tight enough, pop them back off and give them a gentle squeeze with the pliers and pop them back on. The trick is not breaking the wires off or crushing the clips. Yeah, just broke a wire removing the old stylus on my new old turntable. I'm pretty sure it was just an old wire/ bad solder, but it still made me feel pretty dumb. I've got a new headshell coming Monday(thanks, Amazon Prime!) so it's more of an annoyance than a real problem, but I was looking forward to setting it up tonight. Oh well.
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Jan 14, 2011 05:20
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Paperweight posted:That's pretty neat. Never seen those before. If single-ended low power amps are to your taste, I'd say go for it. There are kits out there for those who are handy with a soldering iron to build for a bit less than that. For a finished product, that isn't too outrageous. Yeah, the Miniwatt amps do look pretty neat, and apparently the sound is amazing for the size. Look at the size of the S1:  Yeah, it's sort of a novelty, but the low price ($229) sort of justifies it. Also, would you happen to have a link to anybody who has those DIY kits available?
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Jan 14, 2011 06:21
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http://tubesandmore.com/ Go to kits then click on audio on the list that pops up. It uses a triode/pentode combo tube that was probably used in radios or TVs at one time. I'd highly suggest a chassis to protect curious bystanders from shocking themselves. http://www.tubedepot.com/diy-ek-tu-879s.html This one is a complete kit that's fairly expensive. It produces 8 watts and can use 6V6s, 6L6s, EL-34s, KT-88s etc. Missed this kit on the same site. http://tubedepot.com/diy-ek-tu-870r.html Costs a bit less than the first kit but it's only 2 watts. This looks like a pretty good project if you want to get your feet wet in electronics. Buy a temperature controlled soldering station and some lead solder since it's easier to work with. Get some soldering practise in before you start on a big first project. The manual looks to be well written and the parts count is low. It doesn't look like much for the price but a custom chassis and the transformers are where most of the money goes. You could build this on a breadboard for a bit less but it wouldn't look very nice. Here's more info and a simple amp schematic using the same tube from the above amplifier. http://cool386.tripod.com/6bm8/6BM8.html Here's an EL-84 guitar amp that uses about the same tube compliment as the amp you want to get. It's built inside a junction box. The circuit could be modified for a hi-fi monoblock. The output transformer wouldn't be as good as a more expensive unit but you get the idea of the simplicity of such circuits. http://www.el34world.com/projects/Schedule40.htm This is a pretty neat 25 watt class A push-pull monoblock project if you want more power. http://diyaudioprojects.com/Tubes/KT88-Push-Pull-Tube-Amp/ It is also offered as a kit from Odd Block and is also sold through Tube Depot. I've built guitar amps that were more complex than this. If you really wanted some power and a bit less heat, a Dynakit looks to be a fun build as well. They run a pair of EL-34s in class AB1 for 30 watts. They also have a monoblock that gets 60 watts from a pair of KT-88s or 6550s also in class AB1. One guy offers a Stereo 120 that costs just a bit more than a Stereo 70 and could drive about any speaker. You could buy a used Dynaco Stereo 70 and fix it up yourself or buy one already refurbished for less than a kit. I think I want to build something like this from scratch. Buy the transformers, chassis and boards. I probably have all the rest of the parts in my workshop. There's probably tons of other kits out there from crude to fully finished with prices ranging from reasonable to outrageous. For $229, that's a pretty good deal vesus the $378 in the link you posted earlier. That would be hard to beat with a DIY kit. I assume it is powered by a switch mode power supply or DC to DC converter. I have a nixie tube clock powered by a 12 volt wall wart. I'm forgetting how exactly they work but needless to say it takes the 12 volts and steps it up to about 250 volts taking up very little room compared to a conventional power supply using a large power transformer. There are very sophisticated designs in the last few years that even do away with the output transformers. Most of a tube amp's sound is derived from it's output transformer which adds a lot of character. They used transformers in early solid state designs. They still use input and output transformers in solid state microphone preamps to get a certain warm sound on recordings. I was just looking at the output transformers for single-ended operation. If you wanted to experiment, Hammond makes a universal 15 watt single-ended transformer that the top link sells for $57. The -3dB cutoff is 100Hz but it will give you an idea of how it would sound with a more expensive dedicated full range transformer. I bought one of their universal push-pull transformers to mess with inexpensive low power pentodes when they had a 10% off sale. With a handful of parts and a power supply, you could make a cheap little low power amp from .1-5 watts. I've used a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer as a step up transformer to boost the signal from a CD player to drive the output power tube. Antique Electronic Supply also has the bare bones power supply kit to try out battery tubes if you like. It's listed under kits, power supply. It provides for the filaments, bias and up to 135 volts at 55 mA for the plate/screen supply. I put mine in a Radio Shack box with binding posts in the top to attach wires and run them to a breadboard or spring board. Anyhow, 135 volts is safer to deal with than the usual 250-500 volts found in more typical vacuum tube amps. The most interesting thing about battery tubes is the variety of designs, low cost, fascinating box designs and ease of use (with proper tools and parts). You can get tubes from the early 1930s up to the 1980s. The earliest battery pentode designs used a 5 or 6 pin base and socket with either a top cap where the signal or the high voltage was connected. Into the later 30s, the typical octal socket came into use. I have a few prewar tubes that were used in portable radios by the military. The late 40s, early 50s saw the use of 7-9 pin sockets. From there, they started making sub compact miniture pentodes (sometimes referred to as pencil tubes) for vacuum tube volt meters, ultra portable radios (pre-transistor) and hearing aids. These have only leads coming out of the crimped base that were soldered to a circuit board. Thanks to the invention of the transistor, most of these tubes fell to the wayside and can be bought for $1-6 today. You can end up with RCA, GE, Zenith, Mullard, Joint Army Navy mil spec, Sylvania, Phillips, etc all in their rather neat original boxes. AES just grabs random stuff out of their stock. You may be able to download a copy of the late 30s RCA tube manual along with one from the mid 60s somewhere on the net. Any tube manual is good to have if you get it free. The older tubes have 1.2-1.5 volt filaments. The newer tubes produced more power and used 6.3-12.6 volt filaments. Here we go. http://www.tubebooks.org/hb-3_tube_manual.htm Go down to receiving tube datasheet index part 1 and part 2 below it. There are neat little gems like the 1A5, 1C5, 1T5, 6AK5 and a few dual triode tubes meant for class B operation. Technical books. http://www.pmillett.com/tubebooks/index.html I have some paperback reprints of a few of these I bought years ago from AES and audioXpress. You can get them free since the copyright has run out. It would take you several years to read all this stuff. I have my eBook reader filled to the brim with it. Eric Barbour is my vacuum tube hero. If you want to see what crazy things can be done with oddball tubes, visit Metasonix. Sorry if I'm an information spaz. I've been tinkering with this stuff for going on 15 years now. Paperweight fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jan 15, 2011 |
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Jan 14, 2011 07:04
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Good lord, that's a lot to mull over. Thank you for the info sir. 
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Jan 14, 2011 23:52
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Quick clarification on anti-skate settings: I read you're supposed to set it the same as your tracking force. Does that mean the actual tracking force (as measured by a gauge) or the same numerical setting on the counterweight? I'm assuming it's the actual force, since some TTs wouldn't even have a numbers on the counterweight, but I wanted to doublecheck.
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Jan 19, 2011 03:28
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Your assumption is correct
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Jan 19, 2011 04:18
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Dual is a pretty okay TT brand isn't it? What are some of the better models out there? I keep seeing these for sale on local classifieds for around $60-100 and wondering if any are worth picking up.
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Jan 23, 2011 02:23
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So I just got a record from ebay. It was brand new and sealed and what not but the issue is that this thing creates so much static electricity that it picks up every bit of dust in the air and the mat comes up with the record when I take it off the platter. None of my other records do this. I've read this could mean it is a faulty pressing or something and I was wondering if I should return it or if there's some fix for this I don't know about. Edit: I just threw it back on there and it isn't as bad though there is still some buildup it isn't picking up the mat and what not any more. So new question, what is a reliable way to get rid of static all together? So this doesn't happen at all. Kolobus fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jan 23, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 12:31
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Search amazon or eBay for an anti-static brush if you want one. Usually if I have a staticy record I just let it sit for awhile and the charge dissipates
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Jan 23, 2011 15:42
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They make an anti-static spray you can pick up at your local supermarket. It should be on the same aisle as the detergent. I've lightly sprayed the mat on a turntable with it. I don't normally like to get foreign substances on or near my records but if it helps with static, a little shouldn't hurt. You can also spray the general floor area around your turntable. Carpets and rugs can also contribute to the static charge. They make a brush with a ground wire that might also help. Of course it costs more than a regular brush just to make things difficult. Oh, there is an anti-static gun on the market but they want $80-100 for it. I saw a DIY article to make one from a BBQ lighter. I have yet to make one but it looked like it would work. Edit: It may help to buy a pack of anti-static inner sleeves. I think you can get a pack of 50 for $20 or less. Sleeve City is a good place to check out. If you collect lots of records, some outer sleeves come in handy and keep your album covers looking pristine. If you want to eliminate all static, you could raise the humidity in your house. The drier the air, the more static buildup you get. Paperweight fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jan 25, 2011 |
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Jan 23, 2011 23:53
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The duals to avoid are the overly plasticy ones with no anti-skate.
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Jan 24, 2011 03:36
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Kolobus posted:So I just got a record from ebay. It was brand new and sealed and what not but the issue is that this thing creates so much static electricity that it picks up every bit of dust in the air and the mat comes up with the record when I take it off the platter. None of my other records do this. I've read this could mean it is a faulty pressing or something and I was wondering if I should return it or if there's some fix for this I don't know about. All of my brand-new records did the same thing. After a few plays (cleaning beforehand with the carbon fiber brush), the static problems mostly went away. Oh, I also put them in those anti-static sleeves, but I do that for all my records. That probably helped as well.
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Jan 24, 2011 20:00
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So because the PS-LX250H is still recommended among the "cheapo" brands, I've got a question for those who have or have had one: My TT is spinning way too fast. It's not pitched up, but the speed shift is really noticeable. I've done some Googling, and people appear to be consistently reporting 35 RPM or so. The problem is that no one seems to have the faintest, consistent idea of how to fix the problem. If you're familiar with the turntable, some people are saying to turn the SW screw in the base, while others are saying to stick an eyeglass screwdriver into a hole in the actual motor. There is a hole in the chassis, labeled "33," that goes down to the motor, but the hole in the motor doesn't seem to accept screwdrivers (it's covered with a fabric of some kind). Any help would be appreciated. I'm starting to hover over my TT like a crazy audiophile because it's driving up the wall, but I don't have a strobe light or anything to objectively confirm what my ears are telling me.
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Jan 27, 2011 08:29
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