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Fatty Patty posted:I checked the oil earlier and it was a little low so I added half a quart, and it's at almost full now. This didn't change the gauge whatsoever, still reading at 0. I've read that the most common issue is the oil pressure sending unit, so I'm going to buy a gauge and see what it reads. If it isn't the oil pressure sending unit, is it for sure the oil pump or is there something I'm overlooking? jesus I tried doing this today and I don't understand why it's so complicated to me. I bought a gauge, but I guess the one I bought didn't have tubing or whatever. In addition, the socket doesn't fit (1 1/16") for whatever reason. The switch is COVERED in oil/grime. I've been trying to get it off for over an hour and it just won't budge. There are a couple things that could be removed for more leverage, but I'm afraid to touch anything because I know I would just gently caress it up. I called around to a few oil changing places and no one checks oil pressure, just oil level. What's up with that? So do I really have to go to a mechanic to have the oil pressure checked? How much will they charge me?
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Jan 3, 2011 23:08
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Fatty Patty posted:I can't say anything about whether the motor is interference or not, but at 92k miles the timing chain will break soon. Very soon. Even if she doesn't want to get it done right now, she should be saving for it. Since when do timing chains break at 100k miles?
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Jan 3, 2011 23:12
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Tracked down the new leak, it was the lower radiator hose. Funnily enough I'd bought a new one two years ago when I replaced the upper hose and forgot to swap it. It's probably not a bad idea to check or change all your coolant hoses if you replace your radiator.
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Jan 3, 2011 23:17
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Here's one for you guys and it has me stumped; my 4.0L TJ burns on average (it varies) about a quart of oil per 1500 miles, but I just spent about 4 days in Big Bear and in total drove the vehicle ~60 miles in sub 10°F weather and chains. In that time it lost 4 quarts of oil and I only realized it because I noticed the oil pressure would drop from ~55 psi to ~45 psi when going around turns; I never smelled burning oil or saw blue smoke (although so much steam comes out when its that cold that it could have been masked) and it certainly didn't leak that much. Now that I'm back home, the oil consumption rate has gone back to normal. What the gently caress could have happened?
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Jan 4, 2011 00:04
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Fatty Patty posted:I can't say anything about whether the motor is interference or not, but at 92k miles the timing chain will break soon. Very soon. Even if she doesn't want to get it done right now, she should be saving for it. Umm... If the mechanic quoted 600 bucks for a timing chain replacement, did that include parts. Because a timing chain set is roughly 500 bucks give or take.
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Jan 4, 2011 03:35
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Umm... If the mechanic quoted 600 bucks for a timing chain replacement, did that include parts. Because a timing chain set is roughly 500 bucks give or take. Probably yes because he has to take it off to remove the head anyway...
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Jan 4, 2011 03:43
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The King of Swag posted:Here's one for you guys and it has me stumped; my 4.0L TJ burns on average (it varies) about a quart of oil per 1500 miles, but I just spent about 4 days in Big Bear and in total drove the vehicle ~60 miles in sub 10°F weather and chains. In that time it lost 4 quarts of oil and I only realized it because I noticed the oil pressure would drop from ~55 psi to ~45 psi when going around turns; I never smelled burning oil or saw blue smoke (although so much steam comes out when its that cold that it could have been masked) and it certainly didn't leak that much. Now that I'm back home, the oil consumption rate has gone back to normal. Are you sure you aren't leaking it?
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Jan 4, 2011 04:35
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Sponge! posted:Probably yes because he has to take it off to remove the head anyway...  I just looked a little deeper, looks like the chains have to come off on both sides any ways. Did a little Google-fu and it looks like the chain tensioner seem to be a bigger problem than usual.
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Jan 4, 2011 15:29
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BrokenKnucklez posted:
From what I've heard from Jeep mechanics the 3.7, 4.7, and 5.7 (apparently the basic design is the same) are complete crap engines compared to the 4.0. All sorts of poo poo breaks on them. My brother's roasted multiple valves just months apart and needed new heads on both sides. None of them wonder why the lifetime powertrain warranty didn't last long.
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Jan 4, 2011 15:50
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Started her up this morning and I appear to no longer have power steering or a responsive speedometer. Guessing the explosion of coolant killed some poo poo under the hood. I think I'm out of my depth here, gonna limp her to a mechanic tomorrow.
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Jan 4, 2011 16:24
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REDjackeT posted:From what I've seen, the 4.7 is a non-interference motor and I don't see why the HO would be any different. Unless I'm mistaken, if they go, they shouldn't damage anything and she has AAA to get it towed somewhere. The damage wouldn't be because it broke, like an interference engine, it would be the mass of metal flailing around breaking poo poo it hits. Not saying it will happen, but I have seen some horrible pictures of damage that broken timing chains can do to engines.
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Jan 4, 2011 18:32
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Fatty Patty posted:jesus I tried doing this today and I don't understand why it's so complicated to me. I bought a gauge, but I guess the one I bought didn't have tubing or whatever. In addition, the socket doesn't fit (1 1/16") for whatever reason. The switch is COVERED in oil/grime. I've been trying to get it off for over an hour and it just won't budge. There are a couple things that could be removed for more leverage, but I'm afraid to touch anything because I know I would just gently caress it up. okay so after another try today, the gauge is finally on. Reading 50psi at idle (warm engine) and around 60-65 when revving (2000 rpm). I am SO GLAD it wasn't the oil pump. I am also so glad I have a Jeep now, and not a lovely Dodge car. It is so much easier to work with the engine when everything is easy to get to.
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Jan 4, 2011 19:42
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When do timing chains usually go on the 4 liter? I don't think my owners manual even mentioned it in the maintenance schedule (only goes up to like 150k miles).
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Jan 4, 2011 21:02
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Timing chain should theoretically never go out on the 4.0. There are many 300K engines with the original chain. I've also read on JeepForum (from a Chrysler engineer) that the JTEC ECU used from '97-04 is capable of compensating for variations in valve timing caused by chain stretch. I don't know about earlier or later ECU models. Went out to shoot some guns and ended up wheeling alone, which is how I always used to get into trouble. Whatdya know, I got into some more. Plowing through water covered in 2" sheet of ice? Probably not the best idea. It's a miracle that I didn't take out all lights and my radiator because that's how deep it was. Yeah there's my license plate, come stalk me.  On the way back through...  Then on my way home, while driving past a wildlife preserve, I hit and killed a seagull head-on as it made a super slow running takeoff from the side of the road. I was going 60MPH, no way was I swerving for a seagull. I hit it right where the destroyed driving light was, so if the ice hadn't taken it out, I bet the seagull would have. Look I'm an animal lover and all, but I've never witnessed something so absurd as seeing a seagull take off right into my front grille, seeing its white wings flop over the hood briefly as I hit it just before it rolled under. I stopped to check on it but it was done for. Any way, had a great time shooting. 
incredibull fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 01:14
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incredibull posted:Looks so awesome! I wish I wasn't holed up in a drug induced year long do nothing session when I lived in Washington.
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Jan 5, 2011 01:28
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Ice-plowing a few years ago in the YJ...winter wheeling is awesome.  
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Jan 5, 2011 01:43
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Okay, Jeep guys, answer me this: Are 2 door XJs painfully loving rare or something? I've been scouring eBay and my local craigslist postings, and all anybody ever has is the 4 door XJ, and even then they're ungodly pricey for their age and condition. I know they made a 2 door XJ, and to be quite honest I prefer how they look compared to the 4 doors, but gently caress's sake, I can't find any for the life of me.
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Jan 5, 2011 01:54
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I see a lot of 2WD manual everything 2-door XJs - well by a lot I mean more than zero. The only 4WD one I've ever seen was an '85. I don't think I've ever seen one in the '97-01 style, though they do exist. So yeah they're really rare.
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Jan 5, 2011 02:03
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Plentiful here in Iowa, severely lacking E30's
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Jan 5, 2011 02:46
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T1g4h posted:Okay, Jeep guys, answer me this: My friend got this one in a trade:  Also, another friend of mine just sold his RHD two door XJ for $600.
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Jan 5, 2011 03:04
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Fuckin' a, that one is a beaut. Exactly what i'm trying to find myself. I can't exactly explain it, but I seriously want a 2 door XJ 4wd with the 4.0 and it's proving to be impossible to track one down around where I am.
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Jan 5, 2011 03:09
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Would any of you guys pay over $5k for a late model XJ with less than 100k miles? ^^ 2-door XJs are perfect size in a lot of ways. I have a 2-door Explorer, almost dimensionally identical, and just like the XJ the doors are bigger, seats further back, and better visibility. The 2-door XJ also has sort of a military look going on the inside with the long rear windows - reminds me of an H1, especially with the early XJ interior. incredibull fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 04:25
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incredibull posted:Would any of you guys pay over $5k for a late model XJ with less than 100k miles? A friend of mine just picked up a 2000 XJ for $6k with 106k miles. I haven't seen it but he is new to jeeps and told me it had a "4.5" lift, tires and rims." So I am not too sure of the details. Seems a bit pricey to me. I don't really want to sell mine but I feel like if someone offered me $4k I would be stupid not to take it, and mine is way more modified and would still be $2k less... 
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Jan 5, 2011 04:36
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Evening I'm looking at getting a new/different vehicle, and I've run across an 83 Wagoneer Limited. The body and interior are in superb shape- No rust that I can find on the underbody, rocker paned, inside wheel wells, bumpers inside and out, peeking out from molding, anywhere (famous last words). Leather interior with expected wear, but no tears or big stains. I believe she's an automatic trans, has a 360. 113k miles. New windshield, newly repaired wipers, decent tires. They're asking $3750. It really looks she's been babied. Here's where I need some help/advice: What would I be looking at as far as near-future repairs and major maintenance, or hidden rust spots? How much will being an AMC year vehicle make repairs and such more expensive/ annoying for me to do and find parts for? Finally, does this vehicle, as described, sound like a decent deal?
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Jan 5, 2011 04:53
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fordham posted:Are you sure you aren't leaking it? Spot where it spent its time parked was clean as could be and having lost large amounts of oil while going down the highway in the past (another vehicle), I can tell you that it makes one hell of a mess. Beyond the usual coating of grease and all the lovely mud and slush I picked up while in the snow, no real excess amount of oil.
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Jan 5, 2011 05:10
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Bojanglesworth posted:God drat. I didn't say anything the first time but this XJ is beautiful.
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Jan 5, 2011 05:40
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I have questions about gearing and diffs and ill try and keep them simple and as non retarded as possible. I currently have an 8.25 27 spline rear. Id like to swap in a 29 spline from a 97+ XJ. Id also like to eventually put in a rear locker. (this is where i'm not sure about things.) If I just wanted the axle upgrade, id have to swap in a 97+ carrier for that to work right? Now if I have a 29 spline locker, something like a detroit or power-trax, they count as a carrier replacement, and all i'd have to do is get axles right? Help me understand.
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Jan 5, 2011 06:32
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You can change an 8.25 from 27 to 29 spline by changing the carrier and shafts, but the two shafts have different diameters, so bearings and seals also need to be changed out.. Basically you would end up swapping the entire axle internals from one housing to another. When you install a locker or LSD you're replacing the carrier. Most products are available with common spline counts. The real reason spline count is increased is due to the increase in shaft diameter, which is why the shaft is stronger. Just wanted to get this out of the way since it seems to be a common misconception that spline count itself contributes to strength. As an alternative to swapping in 29 spline parts, you can upgrade to stronger chromoly shafts and retain your 27 spline axle. This is a good option if the locker/LSD you want is only available in one spline count. '96 models were often built with 29-spline 8.25 as well, so if you're looking in a junkyard consider this. incredibull fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 07:03
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You'd be better off just swapping the whole axle out, saves you from having to mess with bearing and backlash etc. You should be able to find a 29 spline 8.25 with a matching gear ratio with out much issue. They do make full carrier lockers, but they also offer "lunchbox" locker which just replace the spider gears. If your handy you might also want to consider a disc brake upgrade while doing this. Either find a Liberty with disc brakes and take the setup or with a little modification the setup from an 8.8 ford rear can work. This spring I plan on finding a 29spline axle myself and doing a few things to it before I swap out my current 27 spline. Should be a fun project. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 07:36
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A Ford 8.8 is practically a direct bolt in (perches are slightly narrower) and comes with disc brakes. All you need to do is get one with the correct gear ratio to match your front. They're drat near bulletproof, a dime a dozen at most junkyards and have a ton of aftermarket support if you want to beef it up for the trails. The 8.25 is decent, but I want to run 4.88 gears with 35's and an ARB. No reputable ring and pinion mfg makes anything above 4.56. There's not a whole lot out there for Chrysler axles, but it's still far better than having a Dana 35. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 11:31 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 11:28
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incredibull posted:The real reason spline count is increased is due to the increase in shaft diameter, which is why the shaft is stronger. Just wanted to get this out of the way since it seems to be a common misconception that spline count itself contributes to strength. Sometimes it's just plain weird. On Land Rovers, for instance, you've got the halfshaft-to-diff interface of either 10 or 24 spline, and yes, the 24 is larger and stronger. However, at the CV end of the front axle, it's the 23-spline joint that's both larger and stronger than the 32 spline one. From the sounds of it, the best way for him to get a good axle is to buy a complete used one of the right spline count, swap out the diff for a locker if he wants, and do any other upgrade/service/rebuild work. Then you can just swap the two axles over, and possibly sell the original to recoup some cash.
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Jan 5, 2011 14:18
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Philip J Fry posted:A Ford 8.8 is practically a direct bolt in (perches are slightly narrower) and comes with disc brakes. All you need to do is get one with the correct gear ratio to match your front. They're drat near bulletproof, a dime a dozen at most junkyards and have a ton of aftermarket support if you want to beef it up for the trails. This is a better idea than upgrading an 8.25. Disc brake 8.8s are all over the place in '95-2002 Explorers, and a lot of them have factory LSDs too.
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Jan 5, 2011 16:35
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explosivo posted:God drat. I didn't say anything the first time but this XJ is beautiful. Thank you very much, sir!
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Jan 5, 2011 16:42
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Bojanglesworth posted:Not sure why your pics turn out this way, but that vignetting is really distracting.
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Jan 5, 2011 19:43
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jonathan posted:Not sure why your pics turn out this way, but that vignetting is really distracting. Its from an App on my phone.
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Jan 5, 2011 21:16
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Thanks guys. Good info. Also I know I could get a 96+, but that was the crossover year and not all of them came with the 29 spline axles/carriers.
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Jan 5, 2011 21:32
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incredibull posted:Where on the peninsula is this?
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Jan 5, 2011 21:36
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Philip J Fry posted:A Ford 8.8 is practically a direct bolt in (perches are slightly narrower) and comes with disc brakes. All you need to do is get one with the correct gear ratio to match your front. They're drat near bulletproof, a dime a dozen at most junkyards and have a ton of aftermarket support if you want to beef it up for the trails. Practically bolt in once you flip/move the perches. It is also narrower so spacers will be needed to make up for the width difference. Don't get me wrong, If I had a welder I'd be all over an 8.8. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jan 5, 2011 |
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Jan 5, 2011 22:08
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Braincloud posted:Where on the peninsula is this? Tahuya ORV park, outside of Belfair. Great day wheeling spot if you don't really want to break anything, though it still requires some effort of course. Most of the trails are pretty tame, even the advanced areas - though they are pretty heavily rutted by buggies, so rollovers are a real risk on some of the hills due to deep rutting. I live 20 minutes from the trails, hit me up on here sometime if you decide to go. My only real issue with Tahuya is that during the weekends it's full of local drunks/methhead assholes. I was there one time when the locals parked their rigs on the trails to block off the mud pit so they could have it to themselves to party. On the flip side of the coin, I was there alone with my cousin one time when he blew his clutch. A guy in a stock Durango towed us all the way out of the trails and the whole 15 miles home, and he only asked for gas money. During the week it's totally empty. incredibull fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 6, 2011 |
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Jan 6, 2011 02:35
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Just spent 2 days on this thread beginning-to-end!  TheFrailNinja posted:I just saw a picture yesterday or the day before somewhere in AI of a goon with a yellow Cherokee. He had painted the rims and trim with a black rust proofer that he got from a tractor supply store. I'm trying to find the picture, the name of the rust proofer and maybe some more info on how-to DIY with that stuff, or similar stuff. I searched through all the threads that I looked at recently, nothing turned up. Ayuda me? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2773074&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=75#post370178289 My question: anyone have experience with the Rampage Cab Top?
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